CN113069377A - 一种抗衰老面霜及其制备方法 - Google Patents
一种抗衰老面霜及其制备方法 Download PDFInfo
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- CN113069377A CN113069377A CN202010015910.2A CN202010015910A CN113069377A CN 113069377 A CN113069377 A CN 113069377A CN 202010015910 A CN202010015910 A CN 202010015910A CN 113069377 A CN113069377 A CN 113069377A
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Abstract
本发明涉及化妆品领域，具体涉及一种抗衰老面霜及其制备方法。一种面霜主要包括以下组分：低分子量透明质酸、神经酰胺、芦荟油、水解胶原蛋白、D‑泛醇、羟癸基泛醌、甘草黄酮、维生素E。活性成分具有高保湿补水功效，且来源植物，安全有效，高含量透明质酸钠具有保湿、使皮肤滋润光滑，细腻柔嫩，富有弹性，神经酰胺、水解胶原蛋白可效修复肌肤屏障，改善皮肤衰老现象，水解胶原蛋白促进皮肤胶原蛋白的产生具有防皱、抗皱、美容保健和恢复皮肤生理功能的作用，甘草黄酮、维生素E有效抗氧化。清除人体皮肤多余自由基，美白保湿。该发明可有效淡化细纹、美白保湿达到延缓衰老。
Description
技术领域
本发明涉及化妆品领域，具体涉及一种具有抗衰老面霜及其制备方法。
背景技术
衰老是人体一种不可避免的、持续的自发过程。衰老体现在皮肤上，表现为皮肤皮脂膜保护和护水功能下降，皮肤水含量降低，脆弱干燥。皮肤开始变得松弛，弹性降低，饱满度下降，出现皱纹。以及色泽度降低，出现色斑等。皮肤老化的原因主要有自身原因引起和外界刺激引起两种。自身原因主要有年龄增长、遗传和内分泌等因素。外界刺激主要是阳光照射、气候变化以及环境污染等。
目前皮肤抗衰的途径主要包括：1.修护皮肤角质层。皮肤的角质层为皮肤结构的最外层，也是直接和外界环境接触的部位。通过使用神经酰胺等对皮肤最外层角质层的修复，可以有效的减少皮肤的经皮失水量，提高皮肤水分含量，让皮肤能更好的抵抗外界刺激。专利CN105326678揭示了一种多效神经酰胺面霜，其有效成分按重量百分比计算包括：苯乙基间苯二酚0.00005-0.00015％，神经酰胺2：0.005-0.012％，(神经酰胺3、神经酰胺6II、神经酰胺I，植物鞘氨醇、胆甾醇、月桂酰乳酰乳酸钠、卡波姆、黄原胶混合物)0.005-0.02％，(丁二醇、水、熊果苷、柠檬酸、亚硫酸钠、水解欧洲李、乙酰酪氨酸、虎耳草提取物、牡丹根提取物、氨基丙醇抗坏血酸磷酸酯、黄芩根提取物、谷胱甘肽的混合物)0.005-0.02％。2.清除自由基。目前国际主流认为是自由基损伤人体细胞，从而引起衰老。皮肤中的自由基会破坏皮肤真皮层中的胶原蛋白，导致皮肤弹性下降，出现皱纹。所以通过使用辅酶010、植物黄酮、维生素E等有效成分清除皮肤中自由基的方式可以延缓皮肤的衰老。专利0N102198060揭示了一种减缓皮肤衰老的组合物及化妆品，其有效组分按重量百分比计算包括：辅酶Q10：5-30％，神经酰胺5-20％，银杏黄酮1-5％，长效保湿剂0.01-0.5％。3.补充和保持皮肤水分。充足的水分是皮肤健康的前提，如果皮肤缺水，会影响到皮肤的水循环***，导致皮肤新陈代谢速度减慢，进而供应皮肤营养的血管萎缩，表皮细胞活力衰弱，皮下脂肪减少，胶原蛋白、弹性蛋白都不断的流失，最终导致肌肤有皱纹出现。通过使用芦荟提取物、透明质酸钠等保湿剂，可以有效保持皮肤中的水分含量，维持肌肤水循环***的正常运行。专利CN108186496揭示了一种美白保湿护肤品，其有效组分按重量百分比计算包括：橙皮素0.08％、熊果苷0.2％、芦荟提取物0.03％、艾叶提取物0.05％、油橄榄果油1.0％、透明质酸钠0.15％。
目前市场上的大多数产品或者只是单一的从清除自由基、美白保湿或修复皮肤角质层屏障的方面抵抗皮肤衰老，或者使用较多容易对皮肤造成伤害的化学成分，或者使用很多有效成分并不明确的植物提取物。因此，有必要开发一种温和健康、成分明确、工艺简单、多效抗衰的面霜。
发明内容
本发明综合考虑了造成皮肤衰老的多个原因，本发明的一个目的是提出一种抗衰老面霜，该面霜以水解胶原蛋白、芦荟油、D-泛醇、神经酰胺1、低分子量透明质酸、羟癸基泛醌、甘草黄酮和维生素E为主要活性成分，通过对皮肤多层次的修复保养作用，达到抗衰老的效果。本发明的另一个目的是提出上述抗衰老面霜的制备方法。
为了实现上述的第一个目的，本发明采用了以下设计方案：
一种抗衰老面霜，该组合物按百分质量比计包括以下的组分：
作为优选，该组合物按质量百分比计包括以下的组分：
作为优选，该组合物按质量百分比计包括以下的组分：
作为在优选所述的作为优选所述的低分子量透明质酸钠为白色粉末状物质，其中活性物含量不小于99％，平均分子量为10kDa-50kDa。
作为优选所述的神经酰胺为神经酰胺1，外观为白色或淡黄色粉末状物质，其中活性物含量不小于45％。
作为优选所述的芦荟油为无色透明油状液体，通过对芦荟叶冷压萃取制得，碘值为80-100，皂化值为185-195，比重约为0.903/20℃。
作为优选所述的水解胶原蛋白为白色粉末状物质，来源为深海鱼的鱼皮，其中有效成分含量不小于99％。
作为优选所述的D-泛醇为无色透明粘稠状半固体，比旋光度为30.5°，折射率为1.495-1.502，其中有效成分含量不小于99％。
作为优选所述的羟癸基泛醌为水溶性黄色粉末，其中有效物小于20％。
作为优选所述的甘草黄酮为红色透明液体，其中固含量不小于10％，光甘草定含量不小于0.35％。
作为优选所述的维生素E为油状黄色透明粘稠液体，折射率为1.495，沸点为485.9℃(760mmHg)，闪点为210.2℃，其中有效物含量不小于99％。
上述抗衰老面霜中还加入了0.1％～0.4％的苯氧乙醇，0.05％～0.2％的对羟基苯甲酸甲酯和0.05％～0.2％对羟基苯甲酸丙酯作为防腐剂。
为了实现上述的第二个目的，本发明采用了以下的技术方案：
一种制备上述抗衰老面霜的方法，该方法包括以下步骤：
1)将去离子水、1，3-丁二醇、黄原胶、透明质酸钠加入水相的反应锅中，开启搅拌，加热至80～85℃，均质10～15分钟，均质结束后，搅拌分散均匀。
2)将花生醇/山嵛醇/花生醇葡糖苷聚合物、C20-22磷酸酯/C20-22脂肪醇聚合物、神经酰胺1、芦荟油、维生素E、苯氧乙醇加入到油相的反应锅中，开启搅拌，加热至80～85℃，搅拌分散直到溶液透明。
3)在80～85℃下，将油相锅中的原料加入到水相锅中，均质10～15分钟，均质结束后，加入聚丙烯酰胺/C13-14异构烷烃/月桂醇聚醚-7聚合物继续均质10-15分钟，待均质完成后，恒温搅拌30分钟。4)开冷却循环水，搅拌降温，待温度降至40～45℃时，将水解胶原蛋白、D-泛醇、羟癸基泛醌、甘草黄酮、苯氧乙醇加入反应锅中，均质5～10分钟，均质结束后，恒温搅拌5～10分钟。
5)继续搅拌冷却至40℃以下，停止搅拌，出料。
低分子量透明质酸钠可渗透到皮肤的真皮层，在皮肤内部发挥作用，锁住水分，促进皮肤代谢和水分循环，使皮肤湿润光滑、细腻柔软、富有弹性。
神经酰胺是皮肤角质层的主要成分，对维持保湿起到重要作用。可修复皮肤角质层屏障，抑制角质层细胞间存在的水分蒸发，维持皮肤滋润性，从外部刺激中保护皮肤。根据分子结构和生理作用的不同神经酰胺又可以分为多种类型。其中神经酰胺1可以形成皮肤保护功能，增加皮肤氧化稳定性，防止过敏性湿疹皮肤。
芦荟油能帮助营养物质渗透入肌肤，具有强力清洁、抗菌力作用。具有消炎、消肿、抑菌、止痒、滋润保湿、美白祛斑、抗衰老、防过敏等效果。
水解胶原蛋白通过对胶原蛋白水解制成，分子量较普通胶原蛋白小，更易被皮肤吸收，能帮助皮肤伤口愈合，并有保湿效果。
D-泛醇经过皮肤吸收后，在人体内会转化为泛酸，进而合成辅酶A，促进人体蛋白质等营养物质的代谢，保护皮肤和粘膜，改善毛发光泽，防止疾病发生。
羟癸基泛醌，即辅酶Q10，是人体呼吸过程电子传递和ATP产生的基本物质，它在人体内的含量直接决定着人体细胞能量水平。辅酶Q10通过自身氧化还原结构的变化阻止生物体内脂肪和蛋白质的过氧化，具有强大的清除自由基的能力，在皮肤的抗衰老、抗炎症、防皱、美白等方面显示了良好的应用性能。
甘草黄酮是从甘草中提取的天然美白剂，可抑制酪氨酸酶的活性，具有快速、高效的美白效能。且拥有与80D(过氧化物歧化酶)相似的清楚自由基的能力。并能杀菌抑菌，抗毒抗炎。
维生素E有较强的抗氧化的功效，可以保护机体细胞免受自由基的毒害。从而延缓皮肤衰老，有效减少皱纹产生。
与现有技术相比，本发明的有益效果在于：
1)工艺简单。使用传统生产工艺即可生产，无需额外设备或步骤。
2)功效全面，从多个角度抵抗皮肤衰老。本发明中的面霜使用多种有效成分进行复配，可以抑制酪氨酸酶的活性，修复皮肤角质层屏障，清除皮肤内部的自由基，杀灭皮肤表面有害细菌，抑制皮肤炎症反应达到美白、保湿、祛皱、抗敏的功效，而起到抗衰老的效果。
3)成分温和且明确。本发明中面霜所使用的原料都是对于皮肤较温和的成分，且有效成分的含量明确。所使用的乳化剂为天然来源的乳化剂，防腐剂为温和安全的苯氧乙醇。
附图说明
图1受试者面部图像示例
具体实施方式
本发明提供的抗衰老面霜是以低分子量透明质酸、神经酰胺、芦荟油、水解胶原蛋白、D-泛醇、羟癸基泛醌、甘草黄酮、维生素E为主要功效成分，辅以化妆品常用保湿剂、防腐剂、增稠剂及水制成。下面列举一部分具体实施例对本发明进行说明，但并不限制本发明内容。
具体实施方式
实施例1
抗衰老面霜：
组成上述美白精华液的组分及其百分数含量为：
上述面霜的制备步骤：首先将去离子水、1，3-丁二醇、黄原胶、透明质酸钠加入水相的反应锅中，开启搅拌，加热至80～85℃，均质10～15分钟，均质结束后，搅拌分散均匀；将花生醇/山嵛醇/花生醇葡糖苷聚合物、C20-22磷酸酯/C20-22脂肪醇聚合物、神经酰胺1、芦荟油、维生素E、苯氧乙醇加入到油相的反应锅中，开启搅拌，加热至80～85℃，搅拌分散直到溶液透明；在80～85℃下，将油相锅中的原料加入到水相锅中，均质10～15分钟，均质结束后，加入聚丙烯酰胺/C13-14异构烷烃/月桂醇聚醚-7聚合物继续均质10～15分钟，待均质完成后，恒温搅拌30分钟；开冷却循环水，搅拌降温，待温度降至40～45℃时，将水解胶原蛋白、D-泛醇、羟癸基泛醌、甘草黄酮、苯氧乙醇加入反应锅中，均质5～10分钟，均质结束后，恒温搅拌5～10分钟；继续搅拌冷却至40℃以下，停止搅拌，出料。
实施例1-5抗衰老面霜效果评价
本实验选择实施例1-5中提供的抗衰老面霜进行临床实验
为验证本产品在抗衰老效果，选择180名志愿者进行了有效性实验，采用双盲设计，对比实验，进行对比考擦，180名志愿者男女不限，健康人群，年龄在30-50岁之间，30人一组，随机分为6组，对比例不使用任何抗衰产品，实验组1-5组使用发明产品。每天早晚使用一次所述实施例1-5抗衰面霜，对每位使用者进行定期跟踪调查，比较其抗衰老效果、紧致肌肤效果、柔润与光滑效果。对实验组1-2及对照组采用皮肤测试仪(意大利CallegariSoft Plus)对皱纹、黑色素、皮肤弹性、皮肤水分等进行监测，每7天为一阶段测试一次，持续使用28天。W0(使用前)、W2(使用2周)、W4(使用4周)通过特定脸部图像记录软件获取脸部细纹、斑点等变化情况图片。
表1.皮肤指标测试结果
| 黑色素(W2-W0) | 水分(W2-W0) | 黑色素(W4-W2) | 水分(W4-W2) | 皮肤改善率 | |
| 实验组1 | 4 | 20 | 5 | 32 | 86％ |
| 实验组2 | 3 | 22 | 7 | 31 | 90.20％ |
| 对照组 | -2 | 3 | -5 | 6 | 2％ |
对于皮肤状况存在不同程度问题的受试人员，在使用过程中反映来看该产品无任何刺激感和不良反应过敏等症状；产品测试部位黑色素显著降低，水分显著提高，皮肤改善率达到85％以上；而对照组测试结果远差于本发明产品效果，皮肤改善率仅为2％。
表2.受试者皮肤性能指标改善结果
| 分组 | 实施例1 | 实施例2 | 实施例3 | 实施例4 | 实施例5 | 对比例 |
| 细纹减少改善率 | 94％ | 84％ | 85％ | 77％ | 76％ | 54％ |
| 弹性增加改善率 | 93％ | 85％ | 83％ | 75％ | 75％ | 58％ |
| 肌肤亮白改善率 | 94％ | 87％ | 85％ | 76％ | 75％ | 59％ |
| 光滑度改善率 | 93％ | 85％ | 84％ | 74％ | 78％ | 57％ |
由表2可知：实施例1-5的臻焕乳霜抗衰老、美白修复功效明显，其中以实施例1的产品功效表现最佳。对比例不具有明显的抗衰、抗氧化功效。
综上所述，该抗衰老面霜产品具有显著的抗衰美白功效。
Claims (6)
1.一种抗衰老面霜，其特征在于该抗衰老面霜按质量百分比计包括以下组分：
2.根据权利要求1所述的一种抗衰老面霜，其特征在于该组合物按质量百分比计包括以下的组分：
3.根据权利要求1所述的一种抗衰老面霜，其特征在于该组合物按质量百分比计包括以下的组分：
4.根据权利要求1或2或3所述的一种抗衰老面霜，其特征在于所述抗衰老面霜中主要功效成分质量百分比为：低分子量透明质酸钠0.025％～0.15％，神经酰胺1∶0.15％～0.6％，芦荟油2.5％～4.5％，水解胶原蛋白4％～11％，D-泛醇0.15％～1.2％，羟癸基泛醇0.3％～3％，甘草黄酮0.2％～3％，维生素E 0.2％～2％。
5.根据权利要求1～4所述的一种抗衰老面霜，其特征在于所述的低分子量透明质酸钠分子量为10kDa～500kDa；所述的神经酰胺1中有效成分含量不小于45％；所述的水解胶原蛋白来源为深海鱼鱼皮胶原；所述的羟癸基泛醌为水溶性黄色粉末状混合物，此混合物中羟癸基泛醌含量不小于20％；所述的甘草黄酮中，光甘草定含量不小于0.35％。
6.一种制备权利要求1～5任意一项权利要求所述的抗衰老面霜的方法。其特征在于该方法包括以下步骤：
1)将去离子水、1，3-丁二醇、黄原胶、透明质酸钠加入水相的反应锅中，开启搅拌，加热至80～85℃，均质10～15分钟，均质结束后，搅拌分散均匀。
2)将花生醇/山嵛醇/花生醇葡糖苷、C20-22磷酸酯/C20-22脂肪醇、神经酰胺1、芦荟油、维生素E加入到油相的反应锅中，开启搅拌，加热至80～85℃，搅拌分散直到溶液透明。
3)在80～85℃下，将油相锅中的原料加入到水相锅中，均质10～15分钟，均质结束后，加入聚丙烯酰胺/C13-14异构烷烃/月桂醇聚醚-7继续均质10～15分钟，待均质完成后，恒温搅拌30分钟。
4)开冷却循环水，搅拌降温，待温度降至40～45℃时，将水解胶原蛋白、D-泛醇、羟癸基泛醌、甘草黄酮、苯氧乙醇加入反应锅中，均质5～10分钟，均质结束后，恒温搅拌5～10分钟。
继续搅拌冷却至40℃以下，停止搅拌，出料。
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