CN112704294A

CN112704294A - Method for making plate of women's trousers based on human body

Info

Publication number: CN112704294A
Application number: CN202110080890.1A
Authority: CN
Inventors: 陈观众; 肖友烤; 肖友国; 周荣荣
Original assignee: Individual
Current assignee: Individual
Priority date: 2021-01-21
Filing date: 2021-01-21
Publication date: 2021-04-27
Anticipated expiration: 2041-01-21
Also published as: CN112704294B

Abstract

The invention discloses a method for making a plate for female trousers by taking a human body as a basic form, which is used for making the plate according to a human body basic form, combines the characteristics of styles, fabrics and process attributes, directly makes the plate, is very intuitive, simple and convenient, does not need the complexity of formula calculation, has very accurate proportion setting of each part, and can ensure that a plate making technician can well express the effect of design requirements. In practice, the technical problem that a platemaker touches the parallel structure of trousers in the plate making process is effectively solved, in particular the technical difficulties of hip lifting and flat clothes for treating the hip groin, and the problems that the accurate positioning cannot be realized in the style structural design and the specific position of the human body curved surface cannot be judged. The human body basic type female trousers platemaking method solves the problems that the conventional plane platemaking can not be visual and effective like three-dimensional cutting from two-dimensional plane platemaking, and platemakers pursue high efficiency and low cost in enterprises, and meanwhile, the human body basic type platemaking method is very suitable for the requirements of personalized and high-end customized female trousers platemaking.

Description

Method for making plate of women's trousers based on human body

[ technical field ] A method for producing a semiconductor device

The invention relates to the technical field of clothing manufacturing, in particular to the technical field of a female trousers plate making method by taking a human body as a basic type.

[ background of the invention ]

Trousers, which are called trousers with crotch in ancient times and without crotch. Today, trousers are called to be worn on two legs respectively. With the continuous change of times, women tend to improve dress introduction and beauty and pursue individuation and high quality, the requirements on the whole trousers are higher and higher, the trousers are comfortable to wear, perfect in style and individual, the trousers can serve the human body, the defects of the human body are covered, and the women can feel perfect and self-confident. The technical personnel needs to deeply understand and know the body shape characteristics of the female, analyze the structure design of the human body and the trousers, accurately measure and grasp the size of the human body, comprehensively analyze the popular trend of the trousers, process treatment, fabric properties and the like, and continuously innovate to improve the technical level of plate making. In modern clothing plate making teaching materials or teaching, the female trousers are mostly based on the basic size of a human body, and the loosening amount is increased by combining with style change to carry out a formula plate making course. The plate making mode can not make plate from two-dimensional plane as intuitive and effective as three-dimensional stereo cutting, and can lead plate making technicians to feel unconscious with the aim of pursuing high efficiency and low cost of modern enterprises. Therefore, how to effectively improve the planar drawing is intuitive, simple and convenient, and the high-efficiency plate making method with the effect close to three-dimensional becomes one of the most needed problems in the prior plate making technology.

[ summary of the invention ]

The invention aims to solve the problems in the prior art, and provides a female trousers plate making method based on a human body, which can make female trousers plate making more visual and simple and has high efficiency close to a three-dimensional effect.

In order to achieve the purpose, the invention provides a female trousers plate making method taking a human body as a basic type, which comprises the following steps:

step S1, selecting a proper human body model, and drawing a human body model marking line at the corresponding position of the human body model;

step S2, collecting human body model data according to the human body model marking line drawn in the step S1;

step S3, selecting a grey cloth, and marking a corresponding basic structure line on the grey cloth according to the human body model data acquired in the step S2;

step S4, the grey cloth is applied on the manikin, the excess blank cloth is folded flat, and the outer side suture line and the inner side suture line of the grey cloth are sewed;

step S5, marking the datum point of each main part according to the position of the grey cloth on the manikin;

step S6, taking down the grey cloth from the human body model, flattening the grey cloth on a garment CAD digital input instrument, inputting the acquired data into garment CAD software, and performing post-processing on the garment CAD software;

step S7, determining a human body base model, checking human body base model data and a human body curve transformation rule in the clothing CAD software, performing multiple sewing tests according to the human body base model to generate cut pieces, adjusting the human body base model data and the human body curve transformation rule in the clothing CAD software according to a test structure, and finally determining a paper pattern which is matched with the human body base model;

and step S8, analyzing the styles of the pants required to be made based on the human body base patterns made in the step S7, and directly adding the relaxation degree to the human body base patterns to make a plate according to the plate making requirements and the style characteristics.

Preferably, the marking lines of the mannequin in the step S1 include a waist line, a middle hip line, a thigh line, a knee line, a calf line, an ankle line, a front lift line, a back lift line, a lateral side line, a medial side line, and a top crotch line.

Preferably, the human body model data in step S2 includes waist size, hip size, thigh size, knee size, calf size, ankle size, heel size, crotch size, waist size, lower limb size, hip size, ankle size, hip size, and hip size.

Preferably, the basic structure lines in the step S3 include a waist line, a hip line, a knee line, a front support line and a back support line.

Preferably, the step S4 includes the following steps:

step S4-1, the grey cloth is applied on the manikin and is folded to be in front and back waist provinces;

step S4-2, folding the surplus part of the grey cloth from the back hip and thigh to the back shank;

step S4-3, folding and flattening the surplus from the lower part of the calf belly to the heel of the grey cloth;

step S4-4, cutting off a plurality of parts from the back hip midpoint to the perineum point concave part of the grey cloth and recording

The opening amount and depth of each shear opening;

step S4-5, cutting off several parts from the front hip midpoint to the perineum point concave part of the grey cloth and recording

The opening amount and depth of each shear opening;

and step S4-6, sewing the outer side seam and the inner side seam of the grey cloth.

Preferably, in the step S4-4, the part from the middle point of the back hip to the valley of the perineum of the grey cloth is cut 1-3 times and the opening amount and depth of each cut are recorded.

Preferably, in the step S4-4, the part from the middle point of the back hip to the valley of the perineum of the grey cloth is cut off at 2, and the opening amount and depth of each cut-off are recorded.

Preferably, in the step S4-5, the part from the central point of the front hip to the valley of the perineum of the grey cloth is cut at 2-4 points and the opening amount and depth of each cut are recorded.

Preferably, in the step S4-5, the part from the central point of the front hip to the valley of the perineum of the grey cloth is cut by 3 and the opening amount and depth of each cut are recorded.

Preferably, the reference points in step S5 include the front waist midpoint, the abdomen front protrusion point, the front hip midpoint, the hip side point, the perineum point, the knee midpoint, the lateral malleolus point, the heel point, the toe tip point, the medial malleolus point, the thigh rear concavity point, the hip high point, the rear hip midpoint, the rear waist midpoint, and the trochanter point.

The invention relates to a female trousers plate making method taking human body as basic type, which has the advantages that: the invention carries out plate making according to the human body base type as the basic template, combines the characteristics of style, fabric and process attributes, directly makes plate, is very visual, simple and convenient, does not need the complexity of formula calculation, has very accurate proportion setting of each part, and can ensure that the plate making technical personnel can well express the effect of design requirements. In practice, the technical problem that a platemaker touches the parallel structure of trousers in the plate making process is effectively solved, in particular the technical difficulties of hip lifting and flat clothes for treating the hip groin, and the problems that the accurate positioning cannot be realized in the style structural design and the specific position of the human body curved surface cannot be judged. The human body basic type female trousers platemaking method solves the problems that the conventional plane platemaking can not be visual and effective like three-dimensional cutting from two-dimensional plane platemaking, and platemakers pursue high efficiency and low cost in enterprises, and meanwhile, the human body basic type platemaking method is very suitable for the requirements of personalized and high-end customized female trousers platemaking.

The features and advantages of the present invention will be described in detail by embodiments in conjunction with the accompanying drawings.

[ description of the drawings ]

FIG. 1 is a schematic diagram of the position structure of the reference points and the reference lines of the method for making female trousers based on human body according to the invention.

FIG. 2 is a schematic view showing the structure of a measuring part in the method for making a pattern on female trousers based on a human body according to the present invention.

FIG. 3 is a schematic diagram of a human body-based pattern structure of a method for making female trousers with a human body as a base according to the present invention.

FIG. 4 is a schematic structural diagram of a female pants platemaking method based on human body according to an embodiment of the present invention.

FIG. 5 is a schematic diagram of the third structure of the female pants platemaking method based on human body according to the embodiment of the present invention.

FIG. 6 is a schematic diagram of the structure of a female's trousers pattern making method based on human body according to the present invention.

[ detailed description ] embodiments

In order to make the objects, technical solutions and advantages of the present invention more apparent, the present invention is further described in detail below with reference to the accompanying drawings and examples. It should be understood, however, that the description herein of specific embodiments is only intended to illustrate the invention and not to limit the scope of the invention. Moreover, in the following description, descriptions of well-known structures and techniques are omitted so as to not unnecessarily obscure the concepts of the present invention. In the description of the present invention, it should be noted that the terms "center", "upper", "lower", "left", "right", "vertical", "horizontal", "inner", "outer", etc. indicate orientations or positional relationships based on the orientations or positional relationships shown in the drawings or the orientations or positional relationships that the products of the present invention are conventionally placed in when used, and are only used for convenience of describing the present invention and simplifying the description, but do not indicate or imply that the devices or elements referred to must have a specific orientation, be constructed and operated in a specific orientation, and thus, should not be construed as limiting the present invention. Furthermore, the terms "first," "second," "third," and the like are used solely to distinguish one from another and are not to be construed as indicating or implying relative importance.

In the description of the present invention, it should also be noted that, unless otherwise explicitly specified or limited, the terms "disposed," "mounted," "connected," and "connected" are to be construed broadly and may, for example, be fixedly connected, detachably connected, or integrally connected; can be mechanically or electrically connected; they may be connected directly or indirectly through intervening media, or they may be interconnected between two elements. The specific meanings of the above terms in the present invention can be understood in specific cases to those skilled in the art.

The first embodiment is as follows:

referring to fig. 1, 2 and 3, the present invention relates to a method for making female trousers plate based on human body, comprising the following steps:

and step S1, selecting a standard female manikin with the age of 25-35 years and the model of 165/68A. And drawing a human body model marking line at the corresponding position of the human body model. The marking lines comprise a waist line, a middle hip line, a thigh line, a knee line, a calf line, an ankle line, a front support line, a rear support line, an outer side line, an inner side line and an upper crotch line.

In step S2, the human body model data is collected according to the human body model mark line drawn in step S1. The human body model data comprises waist circumference of 68cm, hip circumference of 82cm, hip circumference of 90cm, thigh circumference of 51.5cm, knee circumference of 35cm, calf circumference of 33cm, ankle circumference of 23cm, heel circumference of 25.5cm, crotch circumference of 66.5cm, waist circumference height of 101cm, lower limb height of 73cm, hip circumference height of 82cm, ankle circumference height of 7cm, and hip height of 28 cm.

And step S3, selecting a grey cloth. Corresponding lines of infrastructure are marked on the blank based on the mannequin data collected in step S2. The foundation structure lines comprise a waist line, a hip line, a knee line, a front stile line and a back stile line.

Step S4, the blank cloth is applied to the manikin. And folding the blank cloth with excessive margin, and sewing the outer side suture and the inner side suture of the blank cloth. The method specifically comprises the following steps:

and step S4-1, the grey cloth is applied to the manikin and the front waist and the rear waist are well folded.

And step S4-2, folding the extra margin from the back hip and thigh of the grey cloth to the back calf belly.

And step S4-3, folding and flattening the surplus from the position of the lower leg belly to the heel of the grey cloth.

And step S4-4, cutting 2 parts from the central point of the back hip to the concave part of the perineum point of the grey cloth and recording the opening amount and the depth of each cut.

And step S4-5, cutting 3 parts from the central point of the front hip to the concave part of the perineum of the grey cloth and recording the opening amount and the depth of each cut.

And step S5, marking the datum point of each main part according to the position of the grey cloth on the manikin. The datum points include the mid point of the front waist, the front protrusion point of the abdomen, the mid point of the front hip, the lateral point of the hip, the perineum point, the mid point of the knee, the lateral ankle point, the heel point, the toe point, the medial ankle point, the back concave point of the thigh, the hip high point, the back mid point of the hip, the back mid point of the waist and the trochanter point.

And step S6, taking down the grey cloth from the human body model, and flattening the grey cloth on a garment CAD digital input instrument. And inputting the acquired data into the clothing CAD software, and performing post-processing on the clothing CAD software.

In step S7, a human body base model is determined. And checking the human body basic type data and the human body curve transformation rule in the clothing CAD software. And (5) performing a plurality of sewing tests according to the human body base type generated garment pieces. And adjusting the human body basic type data and the human body curve transformation rule in the clothing CAD software according to the test structure. Finally determining the matched human body base type paper pattern.

Step S8, based on the human body base pattern obtained in step S7. Analyzing the style of the pants required to be made, and directly adding the lofting degree to the human body base type paper pattern to make a plate according to the plate making requirement and by combining the style characteristics. See fig. 3.

Example two:

referring to fig. 4, the method is applied to the design of the shorts based on the first embodiment. Analysis of pant style: the summer casual shorts are suitable for young women of 25-30 years old, and have a point fashion style, normal fit waist, loose foot openings and fit and dry and hard back hips, and the fabric is thin nylon cotton, slightly elastic, foot opening turning, and a front piece is folded and is provided with a side oblique insertion bag.

Referring to fig. 4, according to the analysis results, the body-based pattern prepared in the first example was subjected to plate making by directly adding the relaxation degree, and the plate making requirements were as follows: the waist and the head fit without loosening; the hip circumference is properly added with a loose amount, the front hip circumference is more than that, and the back hip circumference is less than that, so as to achieve the effect of lifting the hip and drying the hip; the foot opening is micro A type, so that the waist saving can be transferred to the foot opening; the upper crotch position is 1.5cm below a human body base type crotch suture line so as to adapt to the normal human body comfort level; the length of the trousers is 6.5cm downward from the upper crotch line; the crotch width is lengthened to meet the basic size of the crotch and the wearing comfort of human body. The method is characterized in that the plate making is carried out according to the basic form of the human body, the looseness is directly added by combining the characteristics of the style, the method is visual and simple, the complexity of formula calculation is not needed, and the direct visual effect of the garment pieces on the human body part can be directly generated. The conventional formula calculation plate making method has the duration of about 4 hours and the success rate of the finished product effect of about 40 percent, while the human-based plate making method has the duration of about 2 hours and the success rate of the finished product effect of over 90 percent.

Example three:

referring to fig. 5, the method is applied to the design of the knitted trousers based on the first embodiment. Knitted pants style analysis: the trousers are suitable for fashionable knitted suit trousers worn in summer, suitable for urban women of about 30 years old, and the oxter-waist requires that waist-head fabric is not wrinkled to adapt to the comfort of a human body, the hip is fit and not bloated, the thighs are thin, the trousers are straight trousers, the fabric is made of four-side stretch knitted fabric, the elasticity is good, the style requirement is concise, the thickness is thin, and the hip lifting effect is achieved.

Referring to fig. 5, based on the analysis results, the body-based pattern prepared in example one was directly subjected to releasing and plate-making. The plate making requirement is as follows: the waist circumference of the beef tendon waist needs to consider the minimum size of the convenient putting-on and taking-off; the buttocks are required to be fit and thin, and the whole circumference of the buttocks is reduced by 2cm on the human body base type; because of the practical elasticity test of the fabric, the straight crotch is high, the finished product can naturally extend by about 1cm after being manufactured, the trouser length can be lengthened by about 2cm, the upper crotch height is 0.5cm below the normal human body base type crotch suture, the basic crotch length and the comfort of a human body can be ensured, and the trouser length is 1cm above the flat line of the heel; the front crotch width is widened by 0.3cm, the back crotch width is widened by 0.7cm, the back transverse crotch is wide, the back crotch is arc-shaped, the elasticity of the fabric is good, the fabric can be naturally elongated by about 1.5cm during process manufacturing, and the total crotch dimension basically can meet the requirement of a proper amount of crotch girth of a human body and wearing comfort. The plate making is carried out according to the human body base type as the basic template, the characteristics of style, fabric and process attributes are combined, the plate making is direct, the plate making is visual and simple, the complexity of formula calculation is not needed, and the plate making can be effectively compared with a design effect diagram. The conventional formula calculation plate making method has the duration of about 3 hours and the success rate of the finished product effect of about 45 percent, while the human-based plate making method has the duration of about 1.5 hours and the success rate of the finished product effect of over 95 percent. Compared with the conventional plate making method, the effect is better and more in line with the body shape characteristics of human bodies.

Example four:

referring to fig. 6, the method is applied to jeans design on the basis of the first embodiment. Jeans style analysis: the low-waist jeans are suitable for being worn in spring and autumn, the waistline is low, the pants are upper body fit, the leg openings are micro-trumpet, and the jeans are suitable for young women aged about 28-35 years old, the fabric has good weft elasticity, the warp yarns are micro-elastic, and ready-made clothes are washed with sand. The style requirement is concise, the weight is reduced, and the hip lifting effect is achieved.

Referring to fig. 6, the body-based pattern prepared in example one was directly subjected to releasing and plate-making according to the analysis results. The waistband of the low waist pants is designed to be 7cm below the front waistband line and 3cm below the rear waistband line, and the waistband is in an arc shape; the length of the trousers is 3cm for the flat line of the heel to move upwards; the crotch position is 1.5cm before and 2cm after the human body base type crotch suture, the crotch width is the human body base type crotch width, the front width is widened by 0.5, the back width is widened by 1.2cm, the back crotch concave position needs to be pulled out for about 1.2cm when being sewn, and the total crotch girth size basically can meet the requirement of proper wearing comfort of the human body crotch girth; the hip circumference is reduced by 1.5cm, and the waist of the side seam line moves forward by 1 cm; due to the technical treatment requirement of the jeans, the back inner side seam is about 0.8-1cm shorter than the front inner side seam, and the bending and pulling treatment is carried out, so that the hip groin is more fit and the hip lifting effect is achieved; and after the base template is printed, zooming according to the actual shrinkage of the fabric. The plate making is carried out according to the human body base type as the basic template, the characteristics of style, fabric and process attributes are combined, the plate making is carried out directly, the plate making is very visual and simple, the complexity of formula calculation is not needed, the proportion of each part is very accurate, and the plate making technical personnel can well express the effect of design requirements.

It should be emphasized that the above method for making female trousers with human body as the basic form is illustrative of the present invention, and is not limited to the present invention, and includes other models of human body or data corresponding to human body to establish corresponding human body basic forms, and any scheme after simple transformation of the present invention belongs to the protection scope of the present invention.

Claims

1. A method for making a plate on female trousers based on human body is characterized by comprising the following steps:

2. The method for making female body-based pants according to claim 1, wherein: the human body model marking lines in the step S1 comprise a waist line, a middle hip line, a thigh line, a knee line, a calf line, an ankle line, a front support line, a rear support line, an outer side line, an inner side line and an upper crotch line.

3. The method for making female body-based pants according to claim 1, wherein: the mannequin data in the step S2 includes a waist circumference, a middle hip circumference, a thigh circumference, a knee circumference, a calf circumference, a ankle circumference, a heel circumference, an upper crotch circumference, a waist circumference height, a lower limb height, a hip circumference height, a foot external ankle height, and a hip sitting height.

4. The method for making female body-based pants according to claim 1, wherein: the basic structure lines in the step S3 comprise a waist line, a hip line, a knee line, a front support line and a back support line.

5. The method for making female human-based pants according to claim 1, wherein said step S4 comprises the steps of:

step S4-4, cutting a plurality of positions from the central point of the back hip to the concave part of the perineum point of the grey cloth and recording the opening amount and depth of each cut opening;

step S4-5, cutting a plurality of positions from the central point of the front hip to the concave part of the perineum point of the grey cloth and recording the opening amount and depth of each cut opening;

6. The method for making female body-based pants according to claim 5, wherein: and in the step S4-4, cutting 1-3 parts from the back hip middle point to the perineum point concave part of the grey cloth and recording the opening amount and depth of each cut.

7. The method for making female body-based pants according to claim 6, wherein: in the step S4-4, the part from the back middle point of the hip to the perineum point concave part of the grey cloth is cut off at the position 2, and the opening amount and the depth of each cut opening are recorded

8. The method for making female body-based pants according to claim 5, wherein: and in the step S4-5, cutting the part from the middle point of the front hip to the valley of the perineum of the grey cloth for 2-4 points and recording the opening amount and depth of each cut.

9. The method for making female body-based pants according to claim 8, wherein: in the step S4-5, the part from the front hip middle point to the perineum point concave part of the grey cloth is cut off at the position 3, and the opening amount and the depth of each cut opening are recorded

10. The method for making female body-based pants according to claim 1, wherein: the reference points in the step S5 include a front waist midpoint, an abdomen front protrusion point, a front hip midpoint, a hip lateral point, a perineum point, a knee midpoint, a lateral ankle point, a heel point, a toe tip point, a medial ankle point, a thigh rear concave point, a hip high point, a rear hip midpoint, a rear waist midpoint, and a trochanter point.