CN112156043A - Cosmetic composition containing yeast fermentation product extract and preparation method thereof - Google Patents

Cosmetic composition containing yeast fermentation product extract and preparation method thereof Download PDF

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CN112156043A
CN112156043A CN202011117780.XA CN202011117780A CN112156043A CN 112156043 A CN112156043 A CN 112156043A CN 202011117780 A CN202011117780 A CN 202011117780A CN 112156043 A CN112156043 A CN 112156043A
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extract
cosmetic composition
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fermentation product
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张兴富
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9783Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
    • A61K8/9789Magnoliopsida [dicotyledons]
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34Alcohols
    • A61K8/345Alcohols containing more than one hydroxy group
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9783Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
    • A61K8/9794Liliopsida [monocotyledons]
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/02Preparations for care of the skin for chemically bleaching or whitening the skin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/08Anti-ageing preparations
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/52Stabilizers
    • A61K2800/524Preservatives
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/59Mixtures
    • A61K2800/592Mixtures of compounds complementing their respective functions
    • A61K2800/5922At least two compounds being classified in the same subclass of A61K8/18
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/74Biological properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/78Enzyme modulators, e.g. Enzyme agonists
    • A61K2800/782Enzyme inhibitors; Enzyme antagonists
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/80Process related aspects concerning the preparation of the cosmetic composition or the storage or application thereof
    • A61K2800/85Products or compounds obtained by fermentation, e.g. yoghurt, beer, wine

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Abstract

The invention provides a cosmetic composition containing yeast fermentation product extract and a preparation method thereof, relating to the technical field of cosmetic compositions, wherein the cosmetic composition is prepared from the following raw materials in parts by weight: 2-5 parts of yeast fermentation product extract, 0.1-4 parts of hyaluronic acid, 15-25 parts of vaseline, 2.5-5 parts of carboxymethyl chitosan, 1-2 parts of arbutin, 2.5-5 parts of neoagaro-oligosaccharide, 0.2-0.4 part of compound preservative, 0.1-0.2 part of preservative synergist and 60-80 parts of deionized water. The cosmetic composition prepared by the method has the advantages of removing free radicals and reducing melanin synthesis rate, has excellent corrosion resistance, is safe and nontoxic in preservative components, and is convenient for long-term storage of the cosmetic composition.

Description

Cosmetic composition containing yeast fermentation product extract and preparation method thereof
Technical Field
The invention relates to the technical field of cosmetic compositions, in particular to a cosmetic composition containing yeast fermentation product extract and a preparation method thereof.
Background
Along with the rapid development of economy and the continuous improvement of the living standard of people, the attention of people to beauty is also increased, and the beauty is a permanent topic in the field of cosmetics and is increasingly popular with women on the concept of whitening and luster of skin. The skin, the largest organ of the human body, is covered over the entire human body and is divided into the epidermis, dermis and hypodermis. Each layer contains water, and the water content of each layer is about 18-20% of the body weight. The amount of water content in the skin is the key to whether the skin is young, tender, plump, glossy and soft. A decrease in skin moisture will appear dry, lose elasticity, wrinkling, and accelerate skin aging. Skin aging is a complex physiological process, and under normal physiological conditions, the production and elimination of free radicals in the human body are in dynamic equilibrium, and once the equilibrium is broken, the human body produces excessive free radicals, so that the skin has aging characteristics of wrinkles, dryness, cornification, dullness, excessive stain deposition and the like, and the elimination of the excessive free radicals in the body is an important way for delaying aging. The antioxidant can react with common free radicals in vivo such as hydroxyl free radical and superoxide anion free radical, etc., to prevent lipid peroxidation, and has effects of resolving macula, preventing wrinkle and resisting aging. Therefore, water retention, moisture retention and whitening are always one of the most important research subjects of skin care cosmetics.
Preservatives are one of the indispensable ingredients of cosmetics, and ensure that the cosmetics are not deteriorated by contamination with microorganisms during production, storage and use. The technical specification of cosmetic safety (2015 edition) reduces the number of preservatives allowed to be used in cosmetics in China from 56 to 51, and strictly limits the dosage and application range of the preservatives. Among them, there are only twenty or more kinds of preservatives commonly used in cosmetics, and some of the preservatives used frequently at present are parabens, phenoxyethanol, benzoic acids, methylisothiazolinone, and sorbic acids. According to investigation, the nipagin ester is added in more than 22000 cosmetics, and is a preservative which is most frequently used in personal care products. However, in recent studies, the unmetabolized parabens are found in the tissues of human breast cancer, thereby causing a wide concern about the safety of parabens and even causing changes in relevant regulations in some countries and regions. The cosmetic has the necessary condition for the growth of microorganisms, and for the cosmetics which have the quality guarantee period of 2-3 years and need to be used for multiple times, the corrosion resistance is high, so that the addition amount of the preservative is high. The natural bacteriostatic extract is mainly prepared from polyphenol, flavone, saponin, alkaloid, organic acid and other substances in plants to achieve the bacteriostatic effect. A single plant preservative system has many defects of poor bacteriostatic effect, narrow bacteriostatic spectrum and the like, so that a natural preservative system which has good bacteriostatic effect and broad-spectrum bacteriostatic activity is obtained by properly compounding different plant extracts with bacteriostatic activity, and is one of the feasible schemes for natural preservation of cosmetics.
Disclosure of Invention
Technical problem to be solved
Aiming at the defects of the prior art, the invention provides the cosmetic composition containing the yeast fermentation product extract and the preparation method thereof, the cosmetic composition is prepared from the yeast fermentation product extract, hyaluronic acid, vaseline, carboxymethyl chitosan, arbutin, neoagaro-oligosaccharide, a compound preservative, a preservative synergist and the like, and has the advantages of good moisturizing effect, excellent whitening effect, good preservative effect, safe and harmless components and the like.
(II) technical scheme
In order to achieve the purpose, the invention is realized by the following technical scheme:
the cosmetic composition containing the yeast fermentation product extract comprises the following raw materials in parts by weight: 2-5 parts of yeast fermentation product extract, 0.1-4 parts of hyaluronic acid, 15-25 parts of vaseline, 2.5-5 parts of carboxymethyl chitosan, 1-2 parts of arbutin, 2.5-5 parts of neoagaro-oligosaccharide, 0.2-0.4 part of compound preservative, 0.1-0.2 part of preservative synergist and 60-80 parts of deionized water.
Further, the preparation method of the yeast fermentation product extract comprises the following steps:
(1) cleaning and drying appropriate amount of radix Rhodiolae, Atractylodis rhizoma, folium Hippophae and flos Caryophylli, pulverizing, and sieving with 40 mesh sieve to obtain radix Rhodiolae powder, Atractylodis rhizoma powder, folium Hippophae powder and flos Caryophylli powder;
(2) uniformly mixing the traditional Chinese medicine powder obtained in the step (1), adding purified water, and mixing, wherein the water-material ratio is (30-40):1, 110-;
(3) inoculating yeast to the Chinese medicinal fermentation medium at 10% of the inoculation amount, and fermenting at the fermentation temperature30 ℃ and the rotating speed of the shaking table of 120 r.min-1Then, carrying out shake culture for 48h to obtain fermentation liquor;
(4) centrifuging the fermentation liquor obtained in the step (3) at a super high speed, and filtering to remove cell walls and insoluble molecules; and carrying out single-effect concentration, activated carbon decoloration and odor removal on the obtained filtrate to obtain the yeast fermentation product extract.
Further, in the preparation method of the yeast fermentation product extract, rhodiola rosea, bighead atractylodes rhizome, sea backthern leaves and clove in a mass ratio of 5:4:2 (8-10) are taken in the step (1).
Further, the yeast strain adopted in the step (3) in the preparation method of the yeast fermentation product extract is the saccule-coated yeast, and the thallus concentration is 1 multiplied by 109CFU·mL-1
Further, the preservative synergist is one or more of hexanediol, pentanediol and octanediol.
Further, the preparation method of the compound preservative comprises the following steps:
(1) weighing appropriate amount of cortex Magnolia officinalis, folium Bambusae, herba Violae and cortex Cinnamomi, respectively cleaning and sterilizing, drying at 60-75 deg.C for 1-2 hr in a dryer, respectively grinding and pulverizing, and sieving with 120-140 mesh sieve to obtain cortex Magnolia officinalis powder, folium Bambusae powder, herba Violae powder and cortex Cinnamomi powder;
(2) preparing a magnolia officinalis extract: soaking and extracting cortex Magnolia officinalis plant powder and 80% ethanol solution in a constant temperature water bath oscillator at 70 deg.C for 2 hr at a ratio of material to liquid of 1: 20; extracting with ethyl acetate, and concentrating under reduced pressure to obtain cortex Magnolia officinalis extract;
(3) preparing a moso bamboo leaf extract: soaking and extracting herba Lophatheri powder and 65% ethanol solution in a constant temperature water bath oscillator at 70 deg.C for 3 hr with a material-liquid ratio of 1:40, extracting with chloroform, and concentrating under reduced pressure to obtain herba Lophatheri extract;
(4) preparing a Chinese violet extract: soaking and extracting herba Violae powder and 60% ethanol solution in a constant temperature water bath oscillator at 50 deg.C for 3 hr with a material-liquid ratio of 1:30, extracting with chloroform, and concentrating under reduced pressure to obtain herba Violae extract;
(5) preparing a cinnamon extract: soaking and extracting cortex Cinnamomi powder and 95% ethanol solution in a constant temperature water bath oscillator at 60 deg.C for 1.5 hr with a material-liquid ratio of 1:20, extracting with petroleum ether, and concentrating under reduced pressure to obtain cortex Cinnamomi extract;
(6) compounding the magnolia bark extract, the moso bamboo leaf extract, the Chinese violet extract and the cinnamon extract obtained in the steps according to a certain proportion to prepare the compound preservative.
Further, the cleaning and disinfection in the step (1) of the preparation method of the compound preservative is to clean the magnolia officinalis, the moso bamboo leaves, the Chinese violet and the cinnamon by clear water respectively, then put the cleaned magnolia officinalis, the moso bamboo leaves, the Chinese violet and the cinnamon into sodium hypochlorite disinfectant with concentration of 100 plus one of 150ppm for soaking and disinfection for 5-10min respectively, and finally wash the disinfected magnolia officinalis, the moso bamboo leaves, the Chinese violet and the cinnamon by clear water sequentially.
Further, the rotation speed of the constant-temperature water bath oscillation in the steps (2), (3), (4) and (5) in the preparation method of the compound preservative is 150-.
Further, the compound preservative obtained in the step (6) in the preparation method of the compound preservative is prepared by compounding the magnolia bark extract, the phyllostachys pubescens leaf extract, the Chinese violet extract and the cinnamon extract in a mass ratio of 2 (5-6) to 1: 2.
The invention also provides a preparation method of the cosmetic composition containing the yeast fermentation product extract, which comprises the following steps:
(1) weighing the raw materials according to the proportion, sequentially adding the yeast fermentation product extract, hyaluronic acid, carboxymethyl chitosan, arbutin, new agaro-oligosaccharide and deionized water into a water phase pot, stirring and heating to 70-75 ℃, and keeping the temperature and stirring for 30-40 minutes;
(2) adding vaseline into the oil phase pot, stirring and heating to 70-75 ℃, and keeping the temperature and stirring for 30-40 minutes;
(3) sieving the materials in the water phase pot in the step (1) with a 170-plus-200-mesh sieve, pumping the materials into an emulsifying pot, pumping the materials in the oil phase pot in the step (2) into the emulsifying pot, and stirring for 20-30 minutes at the temperature of 70-75 ℃;
(4) cooling the materials in the emulsifying pot in the step (3) to 40-45 ℃, adding the compound preservative and the preservative synergist, and stirring for 10-15 minutes under heat preservation;
(5) and (4) stirring the materials obtained in the step (4), cooling to room temperature, stopping stirring, and discharging to obtain the cosmetic composition.
(III) advantageous effects
The present invention has been made to overcome the above problems of the prior art and to provide a cosmetic composition containing an extract of a yeast fermentation product and a method for preparing the same.
The invention provides a cosmetic composition containing yeast fermentation product extract and a preparation method thereof.
The invention utilizes the capsule-covering yeast to ferment the mixture of rhodiola rosea, bighead atractylodes rhizome, sea backthern leaf and clove, and the fermentation product contains a large amount of effective components such as flavonoid compounds, natural polyphenol compounds, polysaccharide, alkaloid, saponin and the like.
The flavone in the rhodiola has strong DPPH free radical removing capacity and strong tyrosinase activity inhibiting effect; the flavonoid compound is a micromolecule substance formed by connecting benzene rings with two phenolic hydroxyl groups through a central three-carbon atom, widely exists in most Chinese herbal medicines, and has various physiological activities of oxidation resistance, cancer resistance, inflammation resistance, bacteria resistance and the like. The natural polyphenol compounds contained in the largehead atractylodes rhizome have stronger oxidation resistance; the natural polyphenol compounds contain more active phenolic hydroxyl groups, have various biological activities, can effectively capture free radicals in organisms, have the inhibition effect on collagenase and elastase, and can achieve the purpose of preventing skin aging through the decomposition of collagen, elastin and cellulose protein by the two enzymes. Folium Hippophae contains isoflavone compound, cysteine, lysine, etc. for inhibiting activity of scleroneuraminidase and preventing pigmentation, and also contains cinnamate for effectively absorbing ultraviolet in sunlight and protecting skin from suntan.
The compound preservative overcomes the limitation of single plant extract on bacteriostatic efficacy, and expands bacteriostatic spectrum and bacteriostatic efficacy. The main attack part of the magnolia officinalis extract on staphylococcus aureus is a cell membrane, and the effect on genetic materials and cell walls is weak; for Escherichia coli, the Magnolia officinalis extract has effects of destroying cell membrane and dissolving and destroying cell wall. The action of the phyllostachys pubescens leaf extract on microorganisms is mainly reflected in the destruction and inhibition of genetic materials. The Chinese violet has certain damage and cracking effect on cell membranes and DNA.
The viola yedoensis makino extract and the mangnolia officinalis extract can primarily damage cell walls of bacteria, so that the bacteria lose an important protective shell structure, and bacteriostatic substances can more easily directly contact cell membranes and cause the change of the osmotic pressure of the cell membranes; the magnolia bark extract further destroys the cell membrane structure, so that the cell membrane loses the selective permeability, even destroys the cell membrane structure, and antibacterial substances enter the cell to play a role in the substructures of genetic substances, enzymes, proteins and the like; because the cell wall and the cell membrane are damaged, the moso bamboo leaf extract can easily enter the cells to inhibit and damage the genetic materials. Therefore, the compound preservative has obvious barrier effect on microorganisms, and achieves the purpose of synergistic bacteriostasis by destroying different target sites.
Detailed Description
In order to make the objects, technical solutions and advantages of the embodiments of the present invention clearer, the technical solutions in the embodiments of the present invention will be clearly and completely described below with reference to the embodiments of the present invention, and it is obvious that the described embodiments are some embodiments of the present invention, but not all embodiments. All other embodiments, which can be derived by a person skilled in the art from the embodiments given herein without making any creative effort, shall fall within the protection scope of the present invention.
Example 1:
the cosmetic composition containing the yeast fermentation product extract comprises the following raw materials in parts by weight: 2 parts of yeast fermentation product extract, 2 parts of hyaluronic acid, 15 parts of vaseline, 4 parts of carboxymethyl chitosan, 1 part of arbutin, 4 parts of new agaro-oligosaccharide, 0.2 part of composite preservative, 0.1 part of preservative synergist and 70 parts of deionized water.
The preparation method of the yeast fermentation product extract comprises the following steps:
(1) cleaning and drying rhodiola rosea, bighead atractylodes rhizome, sea backthern leaf and clove in a mass ratio of 5:4:2:8, crushing, and sieving with a 40-mesh sieve to obtain rhodiola rosea powder, bighead atractylodes rhizome powder, sea backthern leaf powder and clove powder;
(2) uniformly mixing the traditional Chinese medicine powder obtained in the step (1), adding purified water, and mixing, wherein the water-material ratio is 30:1, and sterilizing at 120 ℃ for 30 minutes to obtain a traditional Chinese medicine fermentation culture medium;
(3) inoculating 10% of yeast with cell density of 1 × 10 to Chinese medicinal fermentation medium9CFU·mL-1At the fermentation temperature of 30 ℃ and the rotating speed of a shaking table of 120 r.min-1Then, carrying out shake culture for 48h to obtain fermentation liquor;
(4) centrifuging the fermentation liquor obtained in the step (3) at a super high speed, and filtering to remove cell walls and insoluble molecules; and carrying out single-effect concentration, activated carbon decoloration and odor removal on the obtained filtrate to obtain the yeast fermentation product extract.
The preparation method of the compound preservative comprises the following steps:
(1) weighing appropriate amount of cortex magnoliae officinalis, folium phyllostachys chinensis, herba violae and cortex cinnamomi, respectively cleaning with clear water, then respectively soaking in 100ppm sodium hypochlorite disinfectant for sterilization for 5min, finally washing the sterilized cortex magnoliae officinalis, folium phyllostachys chinensis, herba violae and cortex cinnamomi with clear water in sequence, drying in a dryer for 1 h at 60 ℃, then respectively grinding and crushing, and sieving with a 120-mesh sieve to respectively obtain cortex magnoliae officinalis powder, folium phyllostachys chinensis powder, herba violae powder and cortex cinnamomi powder;
(2) preparing a magnolia officinalis extract: soaking and extracting cortex Magnolia officinalis plant powder and 80% ethanol solution in a constant temperature water bath oscillator at rotation speed of 150r/min at 70 deg.C for 2 hr at a material-liquid ratio of 1: 20; extracting with ethyl acetate, and concentrating under reduced pressure to obtain cortex Magnolia officinalis extract;
(3) preparing a moso bamboo leaf extract: soaking and extracting herba Lophatheri powder and 65% ethanol solution in a constant temperature water bath oscillator at rotation speed of 150r/min at 70 deg.C for 3 hr, extracting with chloroform at a material-to-liquid ratio of 1:40, and concentrating under reduced pressure to obtain herba Lophatheri extract;
(4) preparing a Chinese violet extract: soaking and extracting herba Violae powder and 60% ethanol solution in a constant temperature water bath oscillator at rotation speed of 150r/min at 50 deg.C for 3 hr, at a ratio of material to liquid of 1:30, extracting with chloroform, and concentrating under reduced pressure to obtain herba Violae extract;
(5) preparing a cinnamon extract: soaking and extracting cortex Cinnamomi powder and 95% ethanol solution in a constant temperature water bath oscillator at rotation speed of 150r/min at 60 deg.C for 1.5h at a ratio of material to liquid of 1:20, extracting with petroleum ether, and concentrating under reduced pressure to obtain cortex Cinnamomi extract;
(6) compounding the magnolia bark extract, the moso bamboo leaf extract, the Chinese violet extract and the cinnamon extract obtained in the steps in a mass ratio of 2:5:1:2 to prepare the compound preservative.
The preparation method of the cosmetic composition comprises the following steps:
(1) weighing the raw materials according to the proportion, sequentially adding the yeast fermentation product extract, hyaluronic acid, carboxymethyl chitosan, arbutin, new agaro-oligosaccharide and deionized water into a water phase pot, stirring and heating to 70 ℃, preserving heat and stirring for 30 minutes;
(2) adding vaseline into the oil phase pot, stirring and heating to 70 ℃, and keeping the temperature and stirring for 30 minutes;
(3) sieving the materials in the water phase pot in the step (1) with a 170-mesh sieve, pumping into an emulsifying pot, pumping the materials in the oil phase pot in the step (2) into the emulsifying pot, and stirring for 20 minutes at the temperature of 70 ℃;
(4) cooling the materials in the emulsifying pot in the step (3) to 40 ℃, adding the compound preservative and the preservative synergist, and stirring for 10 minutes under the condition of heat preservation;
(5) and (4) stirring the materials obtained in the step (4), cooling to room temperature, stopping stirring, and discharging to obtain the cosmetic composition.
Example 2:
the cosmetic composition containing the yeast fermentation product extract comprises the following raw materials in parts by weight: 5 parts of yeast fermentation product extract, 3 parts of hyaluronic acid, 25 parts of vaseline, 3 parts of carboxymethyl chitosan, 2 parts of arbutin, 3 parts of neoagaro-oligosaccharide, 0.4 part of composite preservative, 0.2 part of preservative synergist and 75 parts of deionized water.
The preparation method of the cosmetic composition comprises the following steps:
(1) weighing the raw materials according to the proportion, sequentially adding the yeast fermentation product extract, hyaluronic acid, carboxymethyl chitosan, arbutin, new agaro-oligosaccharide and deionized water into a water phase pot, stirring and heating to 75 ℃, preserving heat and stirring for 40 minutes;
(2) adding vaseline into an oil phase pot, stirring and heating to 75 ℃, and keeping the temperature and stirring for 40 minutes;
(3) sieving the materials in the water phase pot in the step (1) with a 200-mesh sieve, pumping into an emulsifying pot, pumping the materials in the oil phase pot in the step (2) into the emulsifying pot, and stirring for 40 minutes at the temperature of 75 ℃;
(4) cooling the materials in the emulsifying pot in the step (3) to 45 ℃, adding the compound preservative and the preservative synergist, and stirring for 15 minutes under the condition of heat preservation;
(5) and (4) stirring the materials obtained in the step (4), cooling to room temperature, stopping stirring, and discharging to obtain the cosmetic composition.
The method for preparing the yeast fermentation product extract was the same as that in example 1.
The preparation method of the compound preservative is the same as that of the compound preservative in example 1.
Example 3:
the cosmetic composition containing the yeast fermentation product extract comprises the following raw materials in parts by weight: 2 parts of yeast fermentation product extract, 4 parts of hyaluronic acid, 15 parts of vaseline, 5 parts of carboxymethyl chitosan, 1 part of arbutin, 5 parts of new agaro-oligosaccharide, 0.2 part of composite preservative, 0.2 part of octanediol and 60 parts of deionized water.
The preparation method of the cosmetic composition comprises the following steps:
(1) weighing the raw materials according to the proportion, sequentially adding the yeast fermentation product extract, hyaluronic acid, carboxymethyl chitosan, arbutin, new agaro-oligosaccharide and deionized water into a water phase pot, stirring and heating to 70 ℃, preserving heat and stirring for 40 minutes;
(2) adding vaseline into the oil phase pot, stirring and heating to 70 ℃, and keeping the temperature and stirring for 40 minutes;
(3) sieving the materials in the water phase pot in the step (1) with a 170-mesh sieve, pumping into an emulsifying pot, pumping the materials in the oil phase pot in the step (2) into the emulsifying pot, and stirring for 20 minutes at the temperature of 70 ℃;
(4) cooling the materials in the emulsifying pot in the step (3) to 45 ℃, adding the compound preservative and the preservative synergist, and stirring for 10 minutes under heat preservation;
(5) and (4) stirring the materials obtained in the step (4), cooling to room temperature, stopping stirring, and discharging to obtain the cosmetic composition.
The method for preparing the yeast fermentation product extract was the same as that in example 1.
The preparation method of the compound preservative is the same as that of the compound preservative in example 1.
Example 4:
the cosmetic composition containing the yeast fermentation product extract comprises the following raw materials in parts by weight: 5 parts of yeast fermentation product extract, 0.1 part of hyaluronic acid, 25 parts of vaseline, 2.5 parts of carboxymethyl chitosan, 2 parts of arbutin, 2.5 parts of new agaro-oligosaccharide, 0.4 part of compound preservative, 0.1 part of octanediol and 80 parts of deionized water.
The preparation method of the cosmetic composition comprises the following steps:
(1) weighing the raw materials according to the proportion, sequentially adding the yeast fermentation product extract, hyaluronic acid, carboxymethyl chitosan, arbutin, new agaro-oligosaccharide and deionized water into a water phase pot, stirring and heating to 75 ℃, preserving heat and stirring for 30 minutes;
(2) adding vaseline into an oil phase pot, stirring and heating to 75 ℃, and keeping the temperature and stirring for 30 minutes;
(3) sieving the materials in the water phase pot in the step (1) with a 200-mesh sieve, pumping into an emulsifying pot, pumping the materials in the oil phase pot in the step (2) into the emulsifying pot, and stirring for 30 minutes at the temperature of 70 ℃;
(4) cooling the materials in the emulsifying pot in the step (3) to 40 ℃, adding the compound preservative and the preservative synergist, and stirring for 15 minutes under the condition of heat preservation;
(5) and (4) stirring the materials obtained in the step (4), cooling to room temperature, stopping stirring, and discharging to obtain the cosmetic composition.
The method for preparing the yeast fermentation product extract was the same as that in example 1.
The preparation method of the compound preservative is the same as that of the compound preservative in example 1.
Example 5:
the cosmetic composition containing the yeast fermentation product extract comprises the following raw materials in parts by weight: 4 parts of yeast fermentation product extract, 2 parts of hyaluronic acid, 20 parts of vaseline, 2.5 parts of carboxymethyl chitosan, 1 part of arbutin, 2.5 parts of new agaro-oligosaccharide, 0.4 part of compound preservative, 0.2 part of octanediol and 70 parts of deionized water.
The preparation method of the cosmetic composition comprises the following steps:
(1) weighing the raw materials according to the proportion, sequentially adding the yeast fermentation product extract, hyaluronic acid, carboxymethyl chitosan, arbutin, new agaro-oligosaccharide and deionized water into a water phase pot, stirring and heating to 75 ℃, preserving heat and stirring for 30 minutes;
(2) adding vaseline into an oil phase pot, stirring and heating to 75 ℃, and keeping the temperature and stirring for 30 minutes;
(3) sieving the materials in the water phase pot in the step (1) with a 170-mesh sieve, pumping into an emulsifying pot, pumping the materials in the oil phase pot in the step (2) into the emulsifying pot, and stirring for 30 minutes at the temperature of 75 ℃;
(4) cooling the materials in the emulsifying pot in the step (3) to 40 ℃, adding the compound preservative and the preservative synergist, and stirring for 10 minutes under the condition of heat preservation;
(5) and (4) stirring the materials obtained in the step (4), cooling to room temperature, stopping stirring, and discharging to obtain the cosmetic composition.
The method for preparing the yeast fermentation product extract was the same as that in example 1.
The preparation method of the compound preservative is the same as that of the compound preservative in example 1.
Comparative example 1:
this comparative example compares to example 5, with no added compound preservative and preservative synergist, and the other contents and preparation steps are identical to example 5.
Comparative example 2:
this comparative example is compared with example 5, replacing the compound preservative and preservative synergist with equal weight parts of parabens, and the other contents and preparation steps are the same as example 5.
Comparative example 3:
this comparative example compares to example 5, with no yeast fermentation product extract added, and the other contents and preparation steps are identical to example 5.
Cosmetic compositions were prepared according to the components and methods of examples 1 to 5 and comparative examples 1 to 3, respectively. The moisturizing performance, the corrosion resistance, the whitening performance and the free radical scavenging performance of the cosmetic composition are detected.
(1) Moisture retention property
The cosmetic compositions of examples 1 to 5 and comparative example 3 were subjected to moisturizing efficacy test using QB/T4256-2011 "guideline for evaluating moisturizing efficacy of cosmetics" as a reference standard. The test subjects were 100 male and female with good health, the ages were randomly distributed from 25 to 35 years, the test subjects were randomly divided into 10 groups of 10 persons each, and the moisturizing creams of examples 1 to 5 and the moisturizing cream of comparative example 3 were each tested, the test site was the face, and uniform application was required. The test instrument is as follows: skin moisture content tester CorneometerCM825 (CK, Germany) and moisture loss tester TewameterTM300 (CK, Germany).
The test flow comprises the following steps:
testing environmental requirements: constant temperature and humidity (temperature 20 + -2 deg.C, relative humidity 40% + -5% RH) environment, subject was asked to sit still for 60min before testing data.
The testing method comprises the following steps: the skin surface water loss was tested using TewameterTM300, with an average taken 3 times per test zone; after the skin surface moisture loss test was completed, the skin moisture content was measured using corneometer cm825 and 5 averages were taken for each test zone.
③ smearing the sample: applying the test sample to a test area of the skin of the subject in an amount of (2 + -0.1) mg/cm2
Data acquisition: the data acquisition time was 0 hours (i.e., the first pre-sample application skin test), 2 hours, 4 hours, 2 weeks, 4 weeks of the first sample application; during which the subject applies an equal amount of the test sample to the test area each morning and does not apply any other cosmetic to the test area; data at weeks 2 and 4 were determined at 4 hours after sample application on the day.
And (3) testing results:
MMV value of skin moisture content
The larger the MMV value of the skin moisture content is, the larger the moisture content is, and conversely, the smaller the moisture content is. The higher the hydration change rate, namely the change rate of the skin hydration degree, the more obvious the water replenishing effect is.
Hydration rate ═ hydration (test skin hydration-control skin hydration)/control skin hydration x 100%
Wherein the test skin hydration level is data collected after the subject uses the sample, and the control skin hydration level is data collected before the subject applies the sample for the first time. The rate of change of skin hydration before and after using the test samples is shown in table 1.
Table 1:
2 hours 4 hours 2 weeks 4 weeks
Example 1 65 67 72 74
Example 2 80 83 91 98
Example 3 69 74 81 87
Example 4 75 78 84 92
Example 5 72 75 79 86
Comparative example 3 61 63 67 71
From the test results, it can be seen that the MMV values of the skin moisture content in the test area are higher after the test sample is applied to the subject than before the application in the test period. Comparing the hydration rate data at the 2 nd hour and the hydration rate data at the 4 th hour, the moisturizing creams of examples 1-5 have better short-time moisturizing effect; as can be seen from comparison of the hydration data at weeks 2 and 4, the moisturizing creams of examples 1-5 used for a long period of time exhibited significantly better moisturizing effects on the skin and improved moisturizing ability of the skin itself, compared to the comparative example, with the most significant effect of example 2.
② TEWL value of transdermal water dispersion loss
The smaller the value of the percutaneous water loss TEWL value is, the less the water loss is, and the stronger the water locking capacity is; conversely, the weaker the water-holding capacity. The water loss rate and the change rate of the TEWL value, the lower the value, the better the water locking effect. Statistical results of the TEWL values for the front and back transdermal water dispersion losses using the test samples are shown in table 2.
Table 2:
2 hours 4 hours 2 weeks 4 weeks
Example 1 -13 -15 -17 -21
Example 2 -17 -23 -27 -29
Example 3 -12 -16 -18 -21
Example 4 -17 -21 -23 -27
Example 5 -15 -18 -22 -25
Comparative example 3 -5 -7 -10 -12
As can be seen from the test results, the transdermal water dispersion at the test area was lower after the test sample was applied to the test subjects than before the test period. Comparing the data of the skin water loss rate at the 2 nd hour and the 4 th hour, the results of examples 1 to 5 in reducing the transdermal water loss were better; as can be seen by comparing the data of the skin water loss rates at weeks 2 and 4, the moisturizing creams of examples 1-5 used for a long period of time had significantly better effects on reducing the loss of moisture through the skin and improved moisturizing ability of the skin itself, compared to the comparative example, with the most significant effect of example 2.
From the analysis results, it can be known that the moisturizing creams of examples 1 to 5 can significantly improve the moisture content of the skin, reduce the amount of water dispersed through the skin, and indicate that the test samples have significant moisturizing effects, and that the moisturizing effect is more immediate in weeks 2 and 4 of use, indicating that the moisturizing ability of the skin itself can be effectively improved after long-term use.
(2) Corrosion resistance
The preservative performance of the cosmetic composition was evaluated according to the preservative efficacy evaluation method recommended by the american society for cosmetics, toiletries and perfumes (CTFA).
Taking 2 parts of prepared cosmetic 30g in sterile conical flask, inoculating 0.3mL of 108CFU/mL mixed bacterial suspension of staphylococcus aureus, escherichia coli and pseudomonas aeruginosa; another portion was inoculated with 0.3mL of 106CFU/mL Candida albicans suspension and Aspergillus niger spore suspension. Mixing uniformly by using a vortex oscillator, storing at room temperature (20-25 ℃), transferring 1mL of sample into a 9mL conical flask of sterilized normal saline added with glass beads on 0 th, 7 th, 14 th, 21 th and 28 th days of inoculation, fully oscillating and mixing uniformly, then diluting to a proper concentration according to a 1:10 logarithm, and calculating the content of microorganisms in the sample by adopting a plate counting method. Each experiment was performed in triplicate.
Evaluation criteria
Domestic reference evaluation criteria for CTFA preservation challenge experiments:
A. from the 7 th day, the bacteria or the mold is less than 10CFU/mL, which indicates that the preservative system has strong bacteriostatic action and passes the challenge test;
B. on 28 th day, the bacteria or the mold is 10-100 CFU/mL, which shows that the antiseptic system has a strong inhibition effect on microorganisms and passes a challenge test;
C. on the 28 th day, the bacteria or the mold are 100-1000 CFU/mL, which indicates that the preservative system conditionally passes the challenge test;
D. at day 28, bacteria or mold > 1000CFU/mL indicating that the preservative system failed the challenge test.
The results are shown in Table 3.
Table 3:
Figure BDA0002730916790000151
from the above analysis results, it is understood that the cosmetic composition of example 5 is excellent in preservation property, and is not easily deteriorated after long-term storage.
(3) Free radical scavenging Performance detection
The samples of examples 1 to 5 and comparative example 3 were prepared with dimethyl sulfoxide to a concentration of 1% by mass/volume, and the following experiment was performed.
2ml of a sample solution and 2ml of a 100umol/L Diphenylpicrylhydrazyl (DPPH) solution (the solvent of the solution is water) were added to the same test tube with a stopper, shaken, allowed to stand at room temperature for 30 minutes, and the absorbance of the sample was measured at a wavelength of 517nm using the solvent as a blank. Inhibition rate:
Figure BDA0002730916790000161
C1: absorbance of 2ml dpph solution +2ml sample solution;
C2: absorbance of 2ml sample solution +2ml solvent (i.e. dimethylsulfoxide);
c: absorbance of 2ml DPPH solution +2ml solvent (i.e. dimethyl sulfoxide).
The results are shown in Table 4.
Table 4:
inhibition ratio (%)
Example 1 83.1
Example 2 92.3
Example 3 83.4
Example 4 91.4
Example 5 90.1
Comparative example 3 30.3
Combining the above analysis results, it can be seen that the cosmetic compositions of examples 1 to 5 can significantly reduce the free radical content of the skin, indicating that the test samples have significant anti-aging effects.
(4) Whitening performance detection
B16 mouse melanoma cells at 1X 105The cells/ml were plated in a petri dish with a diameter of 9cm at 37 ℃ with 5% CO2Culturing for 2 days, removing the supernatant, adding 18-22ml of the sample solution after filtration sterilization, culturing for 3 days, removing the supernatant, washing with PBS, adding 0.5ml of 0.2% by mass pancreatin solution into each hole for digesting the cells for 3min, and adding 2ml of maintenance solution into each dish to stop digestion. Blowing, mixing, taking out 0.5ml of each concentration, counting cells, centrifuging the rest cell suspension at 2500r/min for 5min, removing supernatant, and precipitatingAdding NaoH solution, heating to dissolve melanin, and measuring absorbance value on enzyme-linked immunosorbent assay detector with 490nm wavelength.
B=[1-(D1-D2)+(F1-F2)]×100%
B melanin synthesis inhibition rate
D1: drug well absorbance;
d2: drug pore cell density;
f1: absorbance of control wells;
f2: control well cell density.
The results are shown in Table 5.
Table 5:
inhibition ratio (%)
Example 1 67.8
Example 2 76.1
Example 3 67.5
Example 4 75.1
Example 5 65.3
Comparative example 3 20.3
Combining the above analysis results, it can be seen that the cosmetic compositions of examples 1-5 can significantly reduce the skin melanin synthesis rate, indicating that the test samples have significant whitening effects.
As can be seen from tables 1 to 5, the addition of the yeast fermentation product extract significantly improves the effects of scavenging free radicals and reducing the melanin synthesis rate of the cosmetic composition, and the cosmetic composition is preserved by using the composite preservative, so that the cosmetic composition has excellent preservative performance, is safe and nontoxic in components, and is convenient for long-term storage.
The above examples are only intended to illustrate the technical solution of the present invention, but not to limit it; although the present invention has been described in detail with reference to the foregoing embodiments, it will be understood by those of ordinary skill in the art that: the technical solutions described in the foregoing embodiments may still be modified, or some technical features may be equivalently replaced; and such modifications or substitutions do not depart from the spirit and scope of the corresponding technical solutions of the embodiments of the present invention.

Claims (10)

1. The cosmetic composition containing the yeast fermentation product extract is characterized by comprising the following raw materials in parts by weight: 2-5 parts of yeast fermentation product extract, 0.1-4 parts of hyaluronic acid, 15-25 parts of vaseline, 2.5-5 parts of carboxymethyl chitosan, 1-2 parts of arbutin, 2.5-5 parts of neoagaro-oligosaccharide, 0.2-0.4 part of compound preservative, 0.1-0.2 part of preservative synergist and 60-80 parts of deionized water.
2. The cosmetic composition comprising the yeast fermentation product extract according to claim 1, wherein the preparation method of the yeast fermentation product extract comprises:
(1) cleaning and drying appropriate amount of radix Rhodiolae, Atractylodis rhizoma, folium Hippophae and flos Caryophylli, pulverizing, and sieving with 40 mesh sieve to obtain radix Rhodiolae powder, Atractylodis rhizoma powder, folium Hippophae powder and flos Caryophylli powder;
(2) uniformly mixing the traditional Chinese medicine powder obtained in the step (1), adding purified water, and mixing, wherein the water-material ratio is (30-40):1, 110-;
(3) inoculating yeast to the Chinese medicinal fermentation medium at 10% inoculation amount, and rotating at shaking table speed of 120 r.min at fermentation temperature of 30 deg.C-1Then, carrying out shake culture for 48h to obtain fermentation liquor;
(4) centrifuging the fermentation liquor obtained in the step (3) at a super high speed, and filtering to remove cell walls and insoluble molecules; and carrying out single-effect concentration, activated carbon decoloration and odor removal on the obtained filtrate to obtain the yeast fermentation product extract.
3. The cosmetic composition comprising an extract of a yeast fermented product according to claim 2, characterized in that: the rhodiola rosea, the bighead atractylodes rhizome, the sea backthern leaves and the clove in the mass ratio of 5:4:2 (8-10) are taken in the step (1).
4. The cosmetic composition comprising an extract of a yeast fermented product according to claim 2, characterized in that: the yeast strain adopted in the step (3) is a Saccharomycopsis fibuligera with the thallus concentration of 1 multiplied by 109CFU·mL-1
5. The cosmetic composition containing yeast fermentation product extract and the preparation method thereof according to claim 1, wherein the preservative synergist is one or more of hexanediol, pentanediol and octanediol.
6. The cosmetic composition comprising an extract of a yeast fermented product according to claim 1, characterized in that: the preparation method of the compound preservative comprises the following steps:
(1) weighing appropriate amount of cortex Magnolia officinalis, folium Bambusae, herba Violae and cortex Cinnamomi, respectively cleaning and sterilizing, drying at 60-75 deg.C for 1-2 hr in a dryer, respectively grinding and pulverizing, and sieving with 120-140 mesh sieve to obtain cortex Magnolia officinalis powder, folium Bambusae powder, herba Violae powder and cortex Cinnamomi powder;
(2) preparing a magnolia officinalis extract: soaking and extracting cortex Magnolia officinalis plant powder and 80% ethanol solution in a constant temperature water bath oscillator at 70 deg.C for 2 hr at a ratio of material to liquid of 1: 20; extracting with ethyl acetate, and concentrating under reduced pressure to obtain cortex Magnolia officinalis extract;
(3) preparing a moso bamboo leaf extract: soaking and extracting herba Lophatheri powder and 65% ethanol solution in a constant temperature water bath oscillator at 70 deg.C for 3 hr with a material-liquid ratio of 1:40, extracting with chloroform, and concentrating under reduced pressure to obtain herba Lophatheri extract;
(4) preparing a Chinese violet extract: soaking and extracting herba Violae powder and 60% ethanol solution in a constant temperature water bath oscillator at 50 deg.C for 3 hr with a material-liquid ratio of 1:30, extracting with chloroform, and concentrating under reduced pressure to obtain herba Violae extract;
(5) preparing a cinnamon extract: soaking and extracting cortex Cinnamomi powder and 95% ethanol solution in a constant temperature water bath oscillator at 60 deg.C for 1.5 hr with a material-liquid ratio of 1:20, extracting with petroleum ether, and concentrating under reduced pressure to obtain cortex Cinnamomi extract;
(6) compounding the magnolia bark extract, the moso bamboo leaf extract, the Chinese violet extract and the cinnamon extract obtained in the steps according to a certain proportion to prepare the compound preservative.
7. The cosmetic composition comprising an extract of a yeast fermented product according to claim 6, characterized in that: the step (1) of cleaning and disinfecting is to clean the magnolia officinalis, the moso bamboo leaves, the Chinese violet and the cinnamon by clear water respectively, then put the cleaned magnolia officinalis, the moso bamboo leaves, the Chinese violet and the cinnamon into sodium hypochlorite disinfectant with concentration of 100 plus 150ppm respectively for soaking and disinfecting for 5-10min, and finally wash the disinfected magnolia officinalis, the moso bamboo leaves, the Chinese violet and the cinnamon by clear water in sequence.
8. The cosmetic composition containing the yeast fermentation product extract as claimed in claim 6, wherein the rotation speed of the constant temperature water bath shaking in step (2), step (3), step (4) and step (5) is 150-.
9. The cosmetic composition comprising an extract of a yeast fermented product according to claim 6, characterized in that: the compound preservative obtained in the step (6) is prepared by compounding a magnolia officinalis extract, a moso bamboo leaf extract, a Chinese violet extract and a cinnamon extract in a mass ratio of 2 (5-6) to 1: 2.
10. The method of preparing a cosmetic composition comprising an extract of a yeast fermentation product according to claim 1, wherein the cosmetic composition is prepared by:
(1) weighing the raw materials according to the proportion, sequentially adding the yeast fermentation product extract, hyaluronic acid, carboxymethyl chitosan, arbutin, new agaro-oligosaccharide and deionized water into a water phase pot, stirring and heating to 70-75 ℃, and keeping the temperature and stirring for 30-40 minutes;
(2) adding vaseline into the oil phase pot, stirring and heating to 70-75 ℃, and keeping the temperature and stirring for 30-40 minutes;
(3) sieving the materials in the water phase pot in the step (1) with a 170-plus-200-mesh sieve, pumping the materials into an emulsifying pot, pumping the materials in the oil phase pot in the step (2) into the emulsifying pot, and stirring for 20-30 minutes at the temperature of 70-75 ℃;
(4) cooling the materials in the emulsifying pot in the step (3) to 40-45 ℃, adding the compound preservative and the preservative synergist, and stirring for 10-15 minutes under heat preservation;
(5) and (4) stirring the materials obtained in the step (4), cooling to room temperature, stopping stirring, and discharging to obtain the cosmetic composition.
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