CN112119307A - 评价免洗型化妆品组合物对污染物的防护功效 - Google Patents
评价免洗型化妆品组合物对污染物的防护功效 Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- CN112119307A CN112119307A CN201980032742.3A CN201980032742A CN112119307A CN 112119307 A CN112119307 A CN 112119307A CN 201980032742 A CN201980032742 A CN 201980032742A CN 112119307 A CN112119307 A CN 112119307A
- Authority
- CN
- China
- Prior art keywords
- particulate matter
- fine particulate
- skin
- model fine
- layer
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
- Pending
Links
- 239000000203 mixture Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 123
- 239000002537 cosmetic Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 54
- 239000000356 contaminant Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 34
- 238000011156 evaluation Methods 0.000 title description 2
- 230000001681 protective effect Effects 0.000 title description 2
- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 52
- 239000013618 particulate matter Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 47
- 239000000463 material Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 28
- 238000004458 analytical method Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 18
- 239000000126 substance Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 18
- 230000004044 response Effects 0.000 claims abstract description 14
- 238000000151 deposition Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 11
- 239000004615 ingredient Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 9
- 238000001035 drying Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 7
- 238000000338 in vitro Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 7
- -1 polyethylene Polymers 0.000 claims description 22
- 239000002245 particle Substances 0.000 claims description 21
- XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N water Substances O XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 18
- 239000003344 environmental pollutant Substances 0.000 claims description 10
- 239000004480 active ingredient Substances 0.000 claims description 9
- 231100000719 pollutant Toxicity 0.000 claims description 9
- 229920000642 polymer Polymers 0.000 claims description 9
- 239000004793 Polystyrene Substances 0.000 claims description 6
- 238000000794 confocal Raman spectroscopy Methods 0.000 claims description 6
- 229920002223 polystyrene Polymers 0.000 claims description 6
- 239000000758 substrate Substances 0.000 claims description 6
- 230000008021 deposition Effects 0.000 claims description 5
- 241000894007 species Species 0.000 claims description 5
- 238000001218 confocal laser scanning microscopy Methods 0.000 claims description 4
- 239000011521 glass Substances 0.000 claims description 4
- 229910052500 inorganic mineral Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 4
- 239000011707 mineral Substances 0.000 claims description 4
- 229920000297 Rayon Polymers 0.000 claims description 3
- 229910052751 metal Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 3
- 239000002184 metal Substances 0.000 claims description 3
- 229920000058 polyacrylate Polymers 0.000 claims description 3
- 239000002964 rayon Substances 0.000 claims description 3
- 150000003839 salts Chemical class 0.000 claims description 3
- 239000004952 Polyamide Substances 0.000 claims description 2
- 239000004698 Polyethylene Substances 0.000 claims description 2
- 239000004743 Polypropylene Substances 0.000 claims description 2
- 238000004833 X-ray photoelectron spectroscopy Methods 0.000 claims description 2
- 239000000956 alloy Substances 0.000 claims description 2
- 229910045601 alloy Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 2
- 239000011324 bead Substances 0.000 claims description 2
- 238000001036 glow-discharge mass spectrometry Methods 0.000 claims description 2
- 150000002500 ions Chemical class 0.000 claims description 2
- 238000000608 laser ablation Methods 0.000 claims description 2
- 238000012014 optical coherence tomography Methods 0.000 claims description 2
- 238000004838 photoelectron emission spectroscopy Methods 0.000 claims description 2
- 238000000918 plasma mass spectrometry Methods 0.000 claims description 2
- 229920002647 polyamide Polymers 0.000 claims description 2
- 229920000728 polyester Polymers 0.000 claims description 2
- 229920000573 polyethylene Polymers 0.000 claims description 2
- 229920001155 polypropylene Polymers 0.000 claims description 2
- 239000004800 polyvinyl chloride Substances 0.000 claims description 2
- 229920000915 polyvinyl chloride Polymers 0.000 claims description 2
- 238000001004 secondary ion mass spectrometry Methods 0.000 claims description 2
- 238000005011 time of flight secondary ion mass spectroscopy Methods 0.000 claims description 2
- 238000002042 time-of-flight secondary ion mass spectrometry Methods 0.000 claims description 2
- 239000011236 particulate material Substances 0.000 abstract description 6
- 210000003491 skin Anatomy 0.000 description 68
- 239000010410 layer Substances 0.000 description 24
- 239000006071 cream Substances 0.000 description 22
- 238000012360 testing method Methods 0.000 description 21
- 239000010408 film Substances 0.000 description 17
- 239000003921 oil Substances 0.000 description 13
- DNIAPMSPPWPWGF-UHFFFAOYSA-N Propylene glycol Chemical compound CC(O)CO DNIAPMSPPWPWGF-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 12
- 239000000243 solution Substances 0.000 description 12
- PEDCQBHIVMGVHV-UHFFFAOYSA-N Glycerine Chemical compound OCC(O)CO PEDCQBHIVMGVHV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 11
- 235000019198 oils Nutrition 0.000 description 11
- LFQSCWFLJHTTHZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N Ethanol Chemical compound CCO LFQSCWFLJHTTHZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 9
- 235000014113 dietary fatty acids Nutrition 0.000 description 9
- 239000000194 fatty acid Substances 0.000 description 9
- 229930195729 fatty acid Natural products 0.000 description 9
- 239000000499 gel Substances 0.000 description 9
- 230000000694 effects Effects 0.000 description 8
- 239000003974 emollient agent Substances 0.000 description 7
- 239000000839 emulsion Substances 0.000 description 7
- 235000019441 ethanol Nutrition 0.000 description 7
- 239000006210 lotion Substances 0.000 description 7
- LQZZUXJYWNFBMV-UHFFFAOYSA-N dodecan-1-ol Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCO LQZZUXJYWNFBMV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 6
- 239000003995 emulsifying agent Substances 0.000 description 6
- 238000009472 formulation Methods 0.000 description 6
- 239000011734 sodium Substances 0.000 description 6
- 229910052708 sodium Inorganic materials 0.000 description 6
- 239000004094 surface-active agent Substances 0.000 description 6
- DGAQECJNVWCQMB-PUAWFVPOSA-M Ilexoside XXIX Chemical compound C[C@@H]1CC[C@@]2(CC[C@@]3(C(=CC[C@H]4[C@]3(CC[C@@H]5[C@@]4(CC[C@@H](C5(C)C)OS(=O)(=O)[O-])C)C)[C@@H]2[C@]1(C)O)C)C(=O)O[C@H]6[C@@H]([C@H]([C@@H]([C@H](O6)CO)O)O)O.[Na+] DGAQECJNVWCQMB-PUAWFVPOSA-M 0.000 description 5
- 229920003171 Poly (ethylene oxide) Polymers 0.000 description 5
- 230000008859 change Effects 0.000 description 5
- 235000011187 glycerol Nutrition 0.000 description 5
- 229960005150 glycerol Drugs 0.000 description 5
- 239000005022 packaging material Substances 0.000 description 5
- 239000002798 polar solvent Substances 0.000 description 5
- 230000005855 radiation Effects 0.000 description 5
- 239000002904 solvent Substances 0.000 description 5
- 239000007921 spray Substances 0.000 description 5
- 239000000725 suspension Substances 0.000 description 5
- 229940088594 vitamin Drugs 0.000 description 5
- 229930003231 vitamin Natural products 0.000 description 5
- 235000013343 vitamin Nutrition 0.000 description 5
- 239000011782 vitamin Substances 0.000 description 5
- SVTBMSDMJJWYQN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-methylpentane-2,4-diol Chemical compound CC(O)CC(C)(C)O SVTBMSDMJJWYQN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
- SNPLKNRPJHDVJA-ZETCQYMHSA-N D-panthenol Chemical compound OCC(C)(C)[C@@H](O)C(=O)NCCCO SNPLKNRPJHDVJA-ZETCQYMHSA-N 0.000 description 4
- 230000004888 barrier function Effects 0.000 description 4
- 150000001875 compounds Chemical class 0.000 description 4
- 239000003349 gelling agent Substances 0.000 description 4
- KWIUHFFTVRNATP-UHFFFAOYSA-N glycine betaine Chemical compound C[N+](C)(C)CC([O-])=O KWIUHFFTVRNATP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
- BXWNKGSJHAJOGX-UHFFFAOYSA-N hexadecan-1-ol Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCO BXWNKGSJHAJOGX-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
- 239000007788 liquid Substances 0.000 description 4
- 229940101267 panthenol Drugs 0.000 description 4
- 235000020957 pantothenol Nutrition 0.000 description 4
- 239000011619 pantothenol Substances 0.000 description 4
- 229960004063 propylene glycol Drugs 0.000 description 4
- 235000013772 propylene glycol Nutrition 0.000 description 4
- 239000002884 skin cream Substances 0.000 description 4
- 239000007787 solid Substances 0.000 description 4
- 210000000434 stratum corneum Anatomy 0.000 description 4
- PUPZLCDOIYMWBV-UHFFFAOYSA-N (+/-)-1,3-Butanediol Chemical compound CC(O)CCO PUPZLCDOIYMWBV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- WVDDGKGOMKODPV-UHFFFAOYSA-N Benzyl alcohol Chemical compound OCC1=CC=CC=C1 WVDDGKGOMKODPV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- 239000004166 Lanolin Substances 0.000 description 3
- CBENFWSGALASAD-UHFFFAOYSA-N Ozone Chemical compound [O-][O+]=O CBENFWSGALASAD-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- 238000003915 air pollution Methods 0.000 description 3
- 239000012298 atmosphere Substances 0.000 description 3
- 238000004140 cleaning Methods 0.000 description 3
- 229920001577 copolymer Polymers 0.000 description 3
- GVJHHUAWPYXKBD-UHFFFAOYSA-N d-alpha-tocopherol Natural products OC1=C(C)C(C)=C2OC(CCCC(C)CCCC(C)CCCC(C)C)(C)CCC2=C1C GVJHHUAWPYXKBD-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- 239000000428 dust Substances 0.000 description 3
- 239000000975 dye Substances 0.000 description 3
- 230000005284 excitation Effects 0.000 description 3
- 150000004665 fatty acids Chemical class 0.000 description 3
- 239000000835 fiber Substances 0.000 description 3
- 239000007863 gel particle Substances 0.000 description 3
- 229940039717 lanolin Drugs 0.000 description 3
- 235000019388 lanolin Nutrition 0.000 description 3
- 239000012528 membrane Substances 0.000 description 3
- 239000003960 organic solvent Substances 0.000 description 3
- 239000000523 sample Substances 0.000 description 3
- 239000000779 smoke Substances 0.000 description 3
- 239000000344 soap Substances 0.000 description 3
- YBJHBAHKTGYVGT-ZKWXMUAHSA-N (+)-Biotin Chemical compound N1C(=O)N[C@@H]2[C@H](CCCCC(=O)O)SC[C@@H]21 YBJHBAHKTGYVGT-ZKWXMUAHSA-N 0.000 description 2
- WFXHUBZUIFLWCV-UHFFFAOYSA-N (2,2-dimethyl-3-octanoyloxypropyl) octanoate Chemical compound CCCCCCCC(=O)OCC(C)(C)COC(=O)CCCCCCC WFXHUBZUIFLWCV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- LDVVTQMJQSCDMK-UHFFFAOYSA-N 1,3-dihydroxypropan-2-yl formate Chemical compound OCC(CO)OC=O LDVVTQMJQSCDMK-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- UIVPNOBLHXUKDX-UHFFFAOYSA-N 3,5,5-trimethylhexyl 3,5,5-trimethylhexanoate Chemical compound CC(C)(C)CC(C)CCOC(=O)CC(C)CC(C)(C)C UIVPNOBLHXUKDX-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- QGZKDVFQNNGYKY-UHFFFAOYSA-N Ammonia Chemical compound N QGZKDVFQNNGYKY-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- XKRFYHLGVUSROY-UHFFFAOYSA-N Argon Chemical compound [Ar] XKRFYHLGVUSROY-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- CIWBSHSKHKDKBQ-JLAZNSOCSA-N Ascorbic acid Chemical compound OC[C@H](O)[C@H]1OC(=O)C(O)=C1O CIWBSHSKHKDKBQ-JLAZNSOCSA-N 0.000 description 2
- IJGRMHOSHXDMSA-UHFFFAOYSA-N Atomic nitrogen Chemical compound N#N IJGRMHOSHXDMSA-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- FBPFZTCFMRRESA-FSIIMWSLSA-N D-Glucitol Natural products OC[C@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@H](O)CO FBPFZTCFMRRESA-FSIIMWSLSA-N 0.000 description 2
- ZAKOWWREFLAJOT-CEFNRUSXSA-N D-alpha-tocopherylacetate Chemical compound CC(=O)OC1=C(C)C(C)=C2O[C@@](CCC[C@H](C)CCC[C@H](C)CCCC(C)C)(C)CCC2=C1C ZAKOWWREFLAJOT-CEFNRUSXSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 206010012442 Dermatitis contact Diseases 0.000 description 2
- KFZMGEQAYNKOFK-UHFFFAOYSA-N Isopropanol Chemical compound CC(C)O KFZMGEQAYNKOFK-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 102000011782 Keratins Human genes 0.000 description 2
- 108010076876 Keratins Proteins 0.000 description 2
- 239000000020 Nitrocellulose Substances 0.000 description 2
- 239000004677 Nylon Substances 0.000 description 2
- YBGZDTIWKVFICR-JLHYYAGUSA-N Octyl 4-methoxycinnamic acid Chemical compound CCCCC(CC)COC(=O)\C=C\C1=CC=C(OC)C=C1 YBGZDTIWKVFICR-JLHYYAGUSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 239000002202 Polyethylene glycol Substances 0.000 description 2
- VYGQUTWHTHXGQB-FFHKNEKCSA-N Retinol Palmitate Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)OC\C=C(/C)\C=C\C=C(/C)\C=C\C1=C(C)CCCC1(C)C VYGQUTWHTHXGQB-FFHKNEKCSA-N 0.000 description 2
- FAPWRFPIFSIZLT-UHFFFAOYSA-M Sodium chloride Chemical compound [Na+].[Cl-] FAPWRFPIFSIZLT-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 2
- XQAXGZLFSSPBMK-UHFFFAOYSA-M [7-(dimethylamino)phenothiazin-3-ylidene]-dimethylazanium;chloride;trihydrate Chemical compound O.O.O.[Cl-].C1=CC(=[N+](C)C)C=C2SC3=CC(N(C)C)=CC=C3N=C21 XQAXGZLFSSPBMK-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 2
- 239000013543 active substance Substances 0.000 description 2
- 230000002411 adverse Effects 0.000 description 2
- 230000001476 alcoholic effect Effects 0.000 description 2
- 150000001298 alcohols Chemical class 0.000 description 2
- FPIPGXGPPPQFEQ-OVSJKPMPSA-N all-trans-retinol Chemical compound OC\C=C(/C)\C=C\C=C(/C)\C=C\C1=C(C)CCCC1(C)C FPIPGXGPPPQFEQ-OVSJKPMPSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 238000013459 approach Methods 0.000 description 2
- 239000003125 aqueous solvent Substances 0.000 description 2
- 229960003237 betaine Drugs 0.000 description 2
- 238000001574 biopsy Methods 0.000 description 2
- 239000003738 black carbon Substances 0.000 description 2
- 239000006229 carbon black Substances 0.000 description 2
- 239000000969 carrier Substances 0.000 description 2
- 239000001913 cellulose Substances 0.000 description 2
- 235000010980 cellulose Nutrition 0.000 description 2
- 229920002678 cellulose Polymers 0.000 description 2
- 229960000541 cetyl alcohol Drugs 0.000 description 2
- 239000003795 chemical substances by application Substances 0.000 description 2
- 238000004624 confocal microscopy Methods 0.000 description 2
- 208000010247 contact dermatitis Diseases 0.000 description 2
- 238000011109 contamination Methods 0.000 description 2
- 239000013078 crystal Substances 0.000 description 2
- 230000001186 cumulative effect Effects 0.000 description 2
- 239000000539 dimer Substances 0.000 description 2
- 238000000295 emission spectrum Methods 0.000 description 2
- 230000007613 environmental effect Effects 0.000 description 2
- 150000002148 esters Chemical class 0.000 description 2
- 238000000695 excitation spectrum Methods 0.000 description 2
- 238000002474 experimental method Methods 0.000 description 2
- 239000000284 extract Substances 0.000 description 2
- 239000007850 fluorescent dye Substances 0.000 description 2
- OVBPIULPVIDEAO-LBPRGKRZSA-N folic acid Chemical compound C=1N=C2NC(N)=NC(=O)C2=NC=1CNC1=CC=C(C(=O)N[C@@H](CCC(O)=O)C(O)=O)C=C1 OVBPIULPVIDEAO-LBPRGKRZSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 210000000245 forearm Anatomy 0.000 description 2
- 150000004676 glycans Chemical class 0.000 description 2
- 125000005456 glyceride group Chemical group 0.000 description 2
- 230000036541 health Effects 0.000 description 2
- ZSIAUFGUXNUGDI-UHFFFAOYSA-N hexan-1-ol Chemical compound CCCCCCO ZSIAUFGUXNUGDI-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 229940051250 hexylene glycol Drugs 0.000 description 2
- 229930195733 hydrocarbon Natural products 0.000 description 2
- 150000002430 hydrocarbons Chemical class 0.000 description 2
- 239000000017 hydrogel Substances 0.000 description 2
- 229940049290 hydrogenated coco-glycerides Drugs 0.000 description 2
- 229940100554 isononyl isononanoate Drugs 0.000 description 2
- 230000007774 longterm Effects 0.000 description 2
- 229910044991 metal oxide Inorganic materials 0.000 description 2
- 150000004706 metal oxides Chemical class 0.000 description 2
- 229960000907 methylthioninium chloride Drugs 0.000 description 2
- 239000004005 microsphere Substances 0.000 description 2
- DFPAKSUCGFBDDF-UHFFFAOYSA-N nicotinic acid amide Natural products NC(=O)C1=CC=CN=C1 DFPAKSUCGFBDDF-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 229920001220 nitrocellulos Polymers 0.000 description 2
- 229920001778 nylon Polymers 0.000 description 2
- OQILCOQZDHPEAZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N octyl palmitate Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)OCCCCCCCC OQILCOQZDHPEAZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 239000002674 ointment Substances 0.000 description 2
- LSTDYDRCKUBPDI-UHFFFAOYSA-N palmityl acetate Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCOC(C)=O LSTDYDRCKUBPDI-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 239000006072 paste Substances 0.000 description 2
- 229920001223 polyethylene glycol Polymers 0.000 description 2
- 229920005862 polyol Polymers 0.000 description 2
- 150000003077 polyols Chemical class 0.000 description 2
- 229920001282 polysaccharide Polymers 0.000 description 2
- 239000005017 polysaccharide Substances 0.000 description 2
- 229920001343 polytetrafluoroethylene Polymers 0.000 description 2
- 239000004810 polytetrafluoroethylene Substances 0.000 description 2
- 239000000843 powder Substances 0.000 description 2
- 239000011252 protective cream Substances 0.000 description 2
- 239000011241 protective layer Substances 0.000 description 2
- LXNHXLLTXMVWPM-UHFFFAOYSA-N pyridoxine Chemical compound CC1=NC=C(CO)C(CO)=C1O LXNHXLLTXMVWPM-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- YGSDEFSMJLZEOE-UHFFFAOYSA-N salicylic acid Chemical compound OC(=O)C1=CC=CC=C1O YGSDEFSMJLZEOE-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 239000004071 soot Substances 0.000 description 2
- 235000010356 sorbitol Nutrition 0.000 description 2
- 239000000600 sorbitol Substances 0.000 description 2
- 229960002920 sorbitol Drugs 0.000 description 2
- 230000000475 sunscreen effect Effects 0.000 description 2
- 239000000516 sunscreening agent Substances 0.000 description 2
- 238000010998 test method Methods 0.000 description 2
- COXJMKGEQAWXNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N tris(14-methylpentadecyl) 2-hydroxypropane-1,2,3-tricarboxylate Chemical compound CC(C)CCCCCCCCCCCCCOC(=O)CC(O)(C(=O)OCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(C)C)CC(=O)OCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(C)C COXJMKGEQAWXNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 239000003981 vehicle Substances 0.000 description 2
- 239000010497 wheat germ oil Substances 0.000 description 2
- ALSTYHKOOCGGFT-KTKRTIGZSA-N (9Z)-octadecen-1-ol Chemical compound CCCCCCCC\C=C/CCCCCCCCO ALSTYHKOOCGGFT-KTKRTIGZSA-N 0.000 description 1
- OYHQOLUKZRVURQ-NTGFUMLPSA-N (9Z,12Z)-9,10,12,13-tetratritiooctadeca-9,12-dienoic acid Chemical compound C(CCCCCCC\C(=C(/C\C(=C(/CCCCC)\[3H])\[3H])\[3H])\[3H])(=O)O OYHQOLUKZRVURQ-NTGFUMLPSA-N 0.000 description 1
- RZRNAYUHWVFMIP-KTKRTIGZSA-N 1-oleoylglycerol Chemical compound CCCCCCCC\C=C/CCCCCCCC(=O)OCC(O)CO RZRNAYUHWVFMIP-KTKRTIGZSA-N 0.000 description 1
- WAYINTBTZWQNSN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 11-methyldodecyl 3,5,5-trimethylhexanoate Chemical compound CC(C)CCCCCCCCCCOC(=O)CC(C)CC(C)(C)C WAYINTBTZWQNSN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- GLXBPZNFNSLJBS-UHFFFAOYSA-N 11-methyldodecyl tetradecanoate Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)OCCCCCCCCCCC(C)C GLXBPZNFNSLJBS-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- FPIPGXGPPPQFEQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 13-cis retinol Natural products OCC=C(C)C=CC=C(C)C=CC1=C(C)CCCC1(C)C FPIPGXGPPPQFEQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- XDOFQFKRPWOURC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 16-methylheptadecanoic acid Chemical class CC(C)CCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(O)=O XDOFQFKRPWOURC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- XFOQWQKDSMIPHT-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2,3-dichloro-6-(trifluoromethyl)pyridine Chemical compound FC(F)(F)C1=CC=C(Cl)C(Cl)=N1 XFOQWQKDSMIPHT-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- SMZOUWXMTYCWNB-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-(2-methoxy-5-methylphenyl)ethanamine Chemical compound COC1=CC=C(C)C=C1CCN SMZOUWXMTYCWNB-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- NIXOWILDQLNWCW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-Propenoic acid Natural products OC(=O)C=C NIXOWILDQLNWCW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- GLCFQKXOQDQJFZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-ethylhexyl 12-hydroxyoctadecanoate Chemical compound CCCCCCC(O)CCCCCCCCCCC(=O)OCC(CC)CCCC GLCFQKXOQDQJFZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- JZSMZIOJUHECHW-GTJZZHROSA-N 2-hydroxypropyl (z,12r)-12-hydroxyoctadec-9-enoate Chemical compound CCCCCC[C@@H](O)C\C=C/CCCCCCCC(=O)OCC(C)O JZSMZIOJUHECHW-GTJZZHROSA-N 0.000 description 1
- GJJVAFUKOBZPCB-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-methyl-2-(4,8,12-trimethyltrideca-3,7,11-trienyl)-3,4-dihydrochromen-6-ol Chemical compound OC1=CC=C2OC(CCC=C(C)CCC=C(C)CCC=C(C)C)(C)CCC2=C1 GJJVAFUKOBZPCB-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- LEACJMVNYZDSKR-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-octyldodecan-1-ol Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCC(CO)CCCCCCCC LEACJMVNYZDSKR-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- OYHQOLUKZRVURQ-HZJYTTRNSA-M 9-cis,12-cis-Octadecadienoate Chemical compound CCCCC\C=C/C\C=C/CCCCCCCC([O-])=O OYHQOLUKZRVURQ-HZJYTTRNSA-M 0.000 description 1
- YZXBAPSDXZZRGB-DOFZRALJSA-M Arachidonate Chemical compound CCCCC\C=C/C\C=C/C\C=C/C\C=C/CCCC([O-])=O YZXBAPSDXZZRGB-DOFZRALJSA-M 0.000 description 1
- 241000195940 Bryophyta Species 0.000 description 1
- OKTJSMMVPCPJKN-UHFFFAOYSA-N Carbon Chemical compound [C] OKTJSMMVPCPJKN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 235000013162 Cocos nucifera Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 244000060011 Cocos nucifera Species 0.000 description 1
- 102000008186 Collagen Human genes 0.000 description 1
- 108010035532 Collagen Proteins 0.000 description 1
- 229920001651 Cyanoacrylate Polymers 0.000 description 1
- AUNGANRZJHBGPY-UHFFFAOYSA-N D-Lyxoflavin Natural products OCC(O)C(O)C(O)CN1C=2C=C(C)C(C)=CC=2N=C2C1=NC(=O)NC2=O AUNGANRZJHBGPY-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- ZZZCUOFIHGPKAK-UHFFFAOYSA-N D-erythro-ascorbic acid Natural products OCC1OC(=O)C(O)=C1O ZZZCUOFIHGPKAK-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- FBPFZTCFMRRESA-JGWLITMVSA-N D-glucitol Chemical compound OC[C@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@H](O)CO FBPFZTCFMRRESA-JGWLITMVSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 125000002353 D-glucosyl group Chemical group C1([C@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@H](O1)CO)* 0.000 description 1
- ZDQWESQEGGJUCH-UHFFFAOYSA-N Diisopropyl adipate Chemical compound CC(C)OC(=O)CCCCC(=O)OC(C)C ZDQWESQEGGJUCH-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 241000196324 Embryophyta Species 0.000 description 1
- 208000010201 Exanthema Diseases 0.000 description 1
- 229920002153 Hydroxypropyl cellulose Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 206010061218 Inflammation Diseases 0.000 description 1
- QNAYBMKLOCPYGJ-REOHCLBHSA-N L-alanine Chemical compound C[C@H](N)C(O)=O QNAYBMKLOCPYGJ-REOHCLBHSA-N 0.000 description 1
- WSMYVTOQOOLQHP-UHFFFAOYSA-N Malondialdehyde Chemical compound O=CCC=O WSMYVTOQOOLQHP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- MWCLLHOVUTZFKS-UHFFFAOYSA-N Methyl cyanoacrylate Chemical compound COC(=O)C(=C)C#N MWCLLHOVUTZFKS-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229920000168 Microcrystalline cellulose Polymers 0.000 description 1
- OVBPIULPVIDEAO-UHFFFAOYSA-N N-Pteroyl-L-glutaminsaeure Natural products C=1N=C2NC(N)=NC(=O)C2=NC=1CNC1=CC=C(C(=O)NC(CCC(O)=O)C(O)=O)C=C1 OVBPIULPVIDEAO-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- MBBZMMPHUWSWHV-BDVNFPICSA-N N-methylglucamine Chemical compound CNC[C@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@H](O)CO MBBZMMPHUWSWHV-BDVNFPICSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229910002651 NO3 Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- PVNIIMVLHYAWGP-UHFFFAOYSA-N Niacin Chemical compound OC(=O)C1=CC=CN=C1 PVNIIMVLHYAWGP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- NHNBFGGVMKEFGY-UHFFFAOYSA-N Nitrate Chemical compound [O-][N+]([O-])=O NHNBFGGVMKEFGY-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229920001213 Polysorbate 20 Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229920001214 Polysorbate 60 Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 206010063493 Premature ageing Diseases 0.000 description 1
- 208000032038 Premature aging Diseases 0.000 description 1
- 238000001069 Raman spectroscopy Methods 0.000 description 1
- AUNGANRZJHBGPY-SCRDCRAPSA-N Riboflavin Chemical compound OC[C@@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@@H](O)CN1C=2C=C(C)C(C)=CC=2N=C2C1=NC(=O)NC2=O AUNGANRZJHBGPY-SCRDCRAPSA-N 0.000 description 1
- PMZURENOXWZQFD-UHFFFAOYSA-L Sodium Sulfate Chemical compound [Na+].[Na+].[O-]S([O-])(=O)=O PMZURENOXWZQFD-UHFFFAOYSA-L 0.000 description 1
- DBMJMQXJHONAFJ-UHFFFAOYSA-M Sodium laurylsulphate Chemical compound [Na+].CCCCCCCCCCCCOS([O-])(=O)=O DBMJMQXJHONAFJ-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 1
- 229920002125 Sokalan® Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229920002472 Starch Polymers 0.000 description 1
- PPBRXRYQALVLMV-UHFFFAOYSA-N Styrene Natural products C=CC1=CC=CC=C1 PPBRXRYQALVLMV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- QAOWNCQODCNURD-UHFFFAOYSA-L Sulfate Chemical compound [O-]S([O-])(=O)=O QAOWNCQODCNURD-UHFFFAOYSA-L 0.000 description 1
- NINIDFKCEFEMDL-UHFFFAOYSA-N Sulfur Chemical compound [S] NINIDFKCEFEMDL-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- PHYFQTYBJUILEZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N Trioleoylglycerol Natural products CCCCCCCCC=CCCCCCCCC(=O)OCC(OC(=O)CCCCCCCC=CCCCCCCCC)COC(=O)CCCCCCCC=CCCCCCCCC PHYFQTYBJUILEZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229930003471 Vitamin B2 Natural products 0.000 description 1
- 229930003537 Vitamin B3 Natural products 0.000 description 1
- 229930003268 Vitamin C Natural products 0.000 description 1
- 229930003316 Vitamin D Natural products 0.000 description 1
- QYSXJUFSXHHAJI-XFEUOLMDSA-N Vitamin D3 Natural products C1(/[C@@H]2CC[C@@H]([C@]2(CCC1)C)[C@H](C)CCCC(C)C)=C/C=C1\C[C@@H](O)CCC1=C QYSXJUFSXHHAJI-XFEUOLMDSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229930003427 Vitamin E Natural products 0.000 description 1
- SFRPDSKECHTFQA-ONOWFSFQSA-N [(2e,4e,6e,8e)-3,7-dimethyl-9-(2,6,6-trimethylcyclohexen-1-yl)nona-2,4,6,8-tetraenyl] propanoate Chemical compound CCC(=O)OC\C=C(/C)\C=C\C=C(/C)\C=C\C1=C(C)CCCC1(C)C SFRPDSKECHTFQA-ONOWFSFQSA-N 0.000 description 1
- OFUHPGMOWVHNPN-QWZFGMNQSA-N [(2r)-2,5,7,8-tetramethyl-2-[(4r,8r)-4,8,12-trimethyltridecyl]-3,4-dihydrochromen-6-yl] (9z,12z)-octadeca-9,12-dienoate Chemical compound O1[C@](C)(CCC[C@H](C)CCC[C@H](C)CCCC(C)C)CCC2=C(C)C(OC(=O)CCCCCCC\C=C/C\C=C/CCCCC)=C(C)C(C)=C21 OFUHPGMOWVHNPN-QWZFGMNQSA-N 0.000 description 1
- OEWBEINAQKIQLZ-CMRBMDBWSA-N [(2s)-2-[(2r)-3,4-bis(2-hexyldecanoyloxy)-5-oxo-2h-furan-2-yl]-2-(2-hexyldecanoyloxy)ethyl] 2-hexyldecanoate Chemical compound CCCCCCCCC(CCCCCC)C(=O)OC[C@H](OC(=O)C(CCCCCC)CCCCCCCC)[C@H]1OC(=O)C(OC(=O)C(CCCCCC)CCCCCCCC)=C1OC(=O)C(CCCCCC)CCCCCCCC OEWBEINAQKIQLZ-CMRBMDBWSA-N 0.000 description 1
- OCKWAZCWKSMKNC-UHFFFAOYSA-N [3-octadecanoyloxy-2,2-bis(octadecanoyloxymethyl)propyl] octadecanoate Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)OCC(COC(=O)CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC)(COC(=O)CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC)COC(=O)CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC OCKWAZCWKSMKNC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000002253 acid Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000004913 activation Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000011149 active material Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000002390 adhesive tape Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000002671 adjuvant Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000000443 aerosol Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000004279 alanine Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- PNNNRSAQSRJVSB-KCDKBNATSA-N aldehydo-L-fucose Chemical group C[C@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@H](O)C=O PNNNRSAQSRJVSB-KCDKBNATSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 150000001346 alkyl aryl ethers Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 150000005215 alkyl ethers Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 150000004347 all-trans-retinol derivatives Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- AEMOLEFTQBMNLQ-WAXACMCWSA-N alpha-D-glucuronic acid Chemical group O[C@H]1O[C@H](C(O)=O)[C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@H]1O AEMOLEFTQBMNLQ-WAXACMCWSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 235000020661 alpha-linolenic acid Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- DTOSIQBPPRVQHS-PDBXOOCHSA-N alpha-linolenic acid Chemical compound CC\C=C/C\C=C/C\C=C/CCCCCCCC(O)=O DTOSIQBPPRVQHS-PDBXOOCHSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229910052782 aluminium Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- XAGFODPZIPBFFR-UHFFFAOYSA-N aluminium Chemical compound [Al] XAGFODPZIPBFFR-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 235000001014 amino acid Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 150000001413 amino acids Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 229910021529 ammonia Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 230000003321 amplification Effects 0.000 description 1
- 125000000129 anionic group Chemical group 0.000 description 1
- 230000001166 anti-perspirative effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000002519 antifouling agent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000003963 antioxidant agent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000003078 antioxidant effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 235000006708 antioxidants Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000003213 antiperspirant Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000007864 aqueous solution Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000007900 aqueous suspension Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229940114078 arachidonate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- BTFJIXJJCSYFAL-UHFFFAOYSA-N arachidyl alcohol Natural products CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCO BTFJIXJJCSYFAL-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229910052786 argon Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 235000019445 benzyl alcohol Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000003124 biologic agent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229960002685 biotin Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 235000020958 biotin Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000011616 biotin Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000000903 blocking effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000008280 blood Substances 0.000 description 1
- 210000004369 blood Anatomy 0.000 description 1
- 229910052799 carbon Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 150000007942 carboxylates Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 150000001733 carboxylic acid esters Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 125000002091 cationic group Chemical group 0.000 description 1
- 229940049297 cetyl acetate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 229940048851 cetyl ricinoleate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 238000006243 chemical reaction Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000003153 chemical reaction reagent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000019504 cigarettes Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 229920001436 collagen Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 239000003086 colorant Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000004737 colorimetric analysis Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000002485 combustion reaction Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000000052 comparative effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000008139 complexing agent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000008278 cosmetic cream Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000008406 cosmetic ingredient Substances 0.000 description 1
- ZAKOWWREFLAJOT-UHFFFAOYSA-N d-alpha-Tocopheryl acetate Natural products CC(=O)OC1=C(C)C(C)=C2OC(CCCC(C)CCCC(C)CCCC(C)C)(C)CCC2=C1C ZAKOWWREFLAJOT-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- SASYSVUEVMOWPL-NXVVXOECSA-N decyl oleate Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCOC(=O)CCCCCCC\C=C/CCCCCCCC SASYSVUEVMOWPL-NXVVXOECSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000008367 deionised water Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229910021641 deionized water Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 239000002781 deodorant agent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 210000004207 dermis Anatomy 0.000 description 1
- 238000011161 development Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000018109 developmental process Effects 0.000 description 1
- 235000019329 dioctyl sodium sulphosuccinate Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- YHAIUSTWZPMYGG-UHFFFAOYSA-L disodium;2,2-dioctyl-3-sulfobutanedioate Chemical compound [Na+].[Na+].CCCCCCCCC(C([O-])=O)(C(C([O-])=O)S(O)(=O)=O)CCCCCCCC YHAIUSTWZPMYGG-UHFFFAOYSA-L 0.000 description 1
- 239000002270 dispersing agent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000006185 dispersion Substances 0.000 description 1
- SNPLKNRPJHDVJA-UHFFFAOYSA-N dl-panthenol Chemical compound OCC(C)(C)C(O)C(=O)NCCCO SNPLKNRPJHDVJA-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- GVGUFUZHNYFZLC-UHFFFAOYSA-N dodecyl benzenesulfonate;sodium Chemical compound [Na].CCCCCCCCCCCCOS(=O)(=O)C1=CC=CC=C1 GVGUFUZHNYFZLC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000003814 drug Substances 0.000 description 1
- UVCJGUGAGLDPAA-UHFFFAOYSA-N ensulizole Chemical compound N1C2=CC(S(=O)(=O)O)=CC=C2N=C1C1=CC=CC=C1 UVCJGUGAGLDPAA-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229960000655 ensulizole Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 210000002615 epidermis Anatomy 0.000 description 1
- HQQADJVZYDDRJT-UHFFFAOYSA-N ethene;prop-1-ene Chemical group C=C.CC=C HQQADJVZYDDRJT-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 238000001704 evaporation Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000008020 evaporation Effects 0.000 description 1
- 201000005884 exanthem Diseases 0.000 description 1
- 239000003925 fat Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000019197 fats Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 150000002191 fatty alcohols Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 238000001914 filtration Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000010419 fine particle Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000000796 flavoring agent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000019634 flavors Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 238000000799 fluorescence microscopy Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000006260 foam Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229960000304 folic acid Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 235000019152 folic acid Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000011724 folic acid Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000003205 fragrance Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000000446 fuel Substances 0.000 description 1
- WIGCFUFOHFEKBI-UHFFFAOYSA-N gamma-tocopherol Natural products CC(C)CCCC(C)CCCC(C)CCCC1CCC2C(C)C(O)C(C)C(C)C2O1 WIGCFUFOHFEKBI-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- FOYKKGHVWRFIBD-UHFFFAOYSA-N gamma-tocopherol acetate Natural products CC(=O)OC1=C(C)C(C)=C2OC(CCCC(C)CCCC(C)CCCC(C)C)(C)CCC2=C1 FOYKKGHVWRFIBD-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000007789 gas Substances 0.000 description 1
- 150000002334 glycols Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 229930182470 glycoside Natural products 0.000 description 1
- 239000008269 hand cream Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229910001385 heavy metal Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- XAMHKORMKJIEFW-AYTKPMRMSA-N hexadecyl (z,12r)-12-hydroxyoctadec-9-enoate Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCOC(=O)CCCCCCC\C=C/C[C@H](O)CCCCCC XAMHKORMKJIEFW-AYTKPMRMSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 150000002433 hydrophilic molecules Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 230000002209 hydrophobic effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 150000001261 hydroxy acids Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 125000002768 hydroxyalkyl group Chemical group 0.000 description 1
- 229920003063 hydroxymethyl cellulose Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229940031574 hydroxymethyl cellulose Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 239000001863 hydroxypropyl cellulose Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000010977 hydroxypropyl cellulose Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 208000000069 hyperpigmentation Diseases 0.000 description 1
- 230000003810 hyperpigmentation Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000010191 image analysis Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000003384 imaging method Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000001771 impaired effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000010874 in vitro model Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000001727 in vivo Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000004054 inflammatory process Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000013101 initial test Methods 0.000 description 1
- UQSXHKLRYXJYBZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N iron oxide Inorganic materials [Fe]=O UQSXHKLRYXJYBZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 235000013980 iron oxide Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- VBMVTYDPPZVILR-UHFFFAOYSA-N iron(2+);oxygen(2-) Chemical class [O-2].[Fe+2] VBMVTYDPPZVILR-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229940093629 isopropyl isostearate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- XUGNVMKQXJXZCD-UHFFFAOYSA-N isopropyl palmitate Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)OC(C)C XUGNVMKQXJXZCD-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000003410 keratolytic agent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229940099367 lanolin alcohols Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 230000003902 lesion Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000000865 liniment Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229940049918 linoleate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- KQQKGWQCNNTQJW-UHFFFAOYSA-N linolenic acid Natural products CC=CCCC=CCC=CCCCCCCCC(O)=O KQQKGWQCNNTQJW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229960004488 linolenic acid Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 230000003859 lipid peroxidation Effects 0.000 description 1
- 150000002634 lipophilic molecules Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 239000002502 liposome Substances 0.000 description 1
- 210000004072 lung Anatomy 0.000 description 1
- 229940078752 magnesium ascorbyl phosphate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 229940118019 malondialdehyde Drugs 0.000 description 1
- VQHSOMBJVWLPSR-WUJBLJFYSA-N maltitol Chemical compound OC[C@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@@H]([C@H](O)CO)O[C@H]1O[C@H](CO)[C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@H]1O VQHSOMBJVWLPSR-WUJBLJFYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 235000010449 maltitol Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000000845 maltitol Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229940035436 maltitol Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 238000004519 manufacturing process Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000005259 measurement Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000004530 micro-emulsion Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000019813 microcrystalline cellulose Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000008108 microcrystalline cellulose Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229940016286 microcrystalline cellulose Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 230000005012 migration Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000013508 migration Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000002480 mineral oil Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000003068 molecular probe Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000000877 morphologic effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 235000011929 mousse Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 229940078812 myristyl myristate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 239000007908 nanoemulsion Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229920001206 natural gum Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229920005615 natural polymer Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229930014626 natural product Natural products 0.000 description 1
- 229960003966 nicotinamide Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 235000005152 nicotinamide Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000011570 nicotinamide Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229960003512 nicotinic acid Drugs 0.000 description 1
- VOFUROIFQGPCGE-UHFFFAOYSA-N nile red Chemical compound C1=CC=C2C3=NC4=CC=C(N(CC)CC)C=C4OC3=CC(=O)C2=C1 VOFUROIFQGPCGE-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229910052757 nitrogen Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 231100000252 nontoxic Toxicity 0.000 description 1
- 230000003000 nontoxic effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000003199 nucleic acid amplification method Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000007764 o/w emulsion Substances 0.000 description 1
- NILQLOTUVVSODI-UHFFFAOYSA-N octacosan-12-ol Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(O)CCCCCCCCCCC NILQLOTUVVSODI-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- OARHAPXJFIMJLI-UHFFFAOYSA-N octan-3-yl 2-hydroxybenzoate;2-octoxybenzoic acid Chemical compound CCCCCCCCOC1=CC=CC=C1C(O)=O.CCCCCC(CC)OC(=O)C1=CC=CC=C1O OARHAPXJFIMJLI-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229960001679 octinoxate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- XMLQWXUVTXCDDL-UHFFFAOYSA-N oleyl alcohol Natural products CCCCCCC=CCCCCCCCCCCO XMLQWXUVTXCDDL-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229940055577 oleyl alcohol Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 239000013307 optical fiber Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000008520 organization Effects 0.000 description 1
- DXGLGDHPHMLXJC-UHFFFAOYSA-N oxybenzone Chemical compound OC1=CC(OC)=CC=C1C(=O)C1=CC=CC=C1 DXGLGDHPHMLXJC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229960001173 oxybenzone Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 229940070802 palmitoyl glutamate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- FJKROLUGYXJWQN-UHFFFAOYSA-N papa-hydroxy-benzoic acid Natural products OC(=O)C1=CC=C(O)C=C1 FJKROLUGYXJWQN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 230000035515 penetration Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000002304 perfume Substances 0.000 description 1
- 150000002978 peroxides Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- UFEJXQWSRLAIOY-UHFFFAOYSA-N phenyl 1h-benzimidazole-2-sulfonate Chemical compound N=1C2=CC=CC=C2NC=1S(=O)(=O)OC1=CC=CC=C1 UFEJXQWSRLAIOY-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229940057874 phenyl trimethicone Drugs 0.000 description 1
- CGIHFIDULQUVJG-UHFFFAOYSA-N phytantriol Chemical compound CC(C)CCCC(C)CCCC(C)CCCC(C)(O)C(O)CO CGIHFIDULQUVJG-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- CGIHFIDULQUVJG-VNTMZGSJSA-N phytantriol Natural products CC(C)CCC[C@H](C)CCC[C@H](C)CCC[C@@](C)(O)[C@H](O)CO CGIHFIDULQUVJG-VNTMZGSJSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000000419 plant extract Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000004033 plastic Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229920003023 plastic Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 239000002985 plastic film Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229920006255 plastic film Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229920001983 poloxamer Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 239000002861 polymer material Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000000256 polyoxyethylene sorbitan monolaurate Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000010486 polyoxyethylene sorbitan monolaurate Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000000244 polyoxyethylene sorbitan monooleate Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000010482 polyoxyethylene sorbitan monooleate Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 229920001451 polypropylene glycol Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229920001296 polysiloxane Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229920000053 polysorbate 80 Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 238000010248 power generation Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000002360 preparation method Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000001737 promoting effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- BDERNNFJNOPAEC-UHFFFAOYSA-N propan-1-ol Chemical compound CCCO BDERNNFJNOPAEC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- XEIOPEQGDSYOIH-MURFETPASA-N propan-2-yl (9z,12z)-octadeca-9,12-dienoate Chemical compound CCCCC\C=C/C\C=C/CCCCCCCC(=O)OC(C)C XEIOPEQGDSYOIH-MURFETPASA-N 0.000 description 1
- NEOZOXKVMDBOSG-UHFFFAOYSA-N propan-2-yl 16-methylheptadecanoate Chemical compound CC(C)CCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)OC(C)C NEOZOXKVMDBOSG-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- RADKZDMFGJYCBB-UHFFFAOYSA-N pyridoxal hydrochloride Natural products CC1=NC=C(CO)C(C=O)=C1O RADKZDMFGJYCBB-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 206010037844 rash Diseases 0.000 description 1
- 238000002310 reflectometry Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000004627 regenerated cellulose Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000005871 repellent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229920005989 resin Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 239000011347 resin Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229960003471 retinol Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 235000020944 retinol Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000011607 retinol Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229940108325 retinyl palmitate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 235000019172 retinyl palmitate Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000011769 retinyl palmitate Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229960002477 riboflavin Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 229960004889 salicylic acid Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 239000004576 sand Substances 0.000 description 1
- 108700004121 sarkosyl Proteins 0.000 description 1
- 210000002966 serum Anatomy 0.000 description 1
- 239000002453 shampoo Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229920005573 silicon-containing polymer Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229920002050 silicone resin Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 230000008591 skin barrier function Effects 0.000 description 1
- KSBLVCKECJKQSA-UHFFFAOYSA-N sodium 4,5-dihydro-1H-imidazole Chemical compound [Na+].C1CN=CN1 KSBLVCKECJKQSA-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000011780 sodium chloride Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229940080264 sodium dodecylbenzenesulfonate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- KSAVQLQVUXSOCR-UHFFFAOYSA-M sodium lauroyl sarcosinate Chemical compound [Na+].CCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)N(C)CC([O-])=O KSAVQLQVUXSOCR-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 1
- 229940075560 sodium lauryl sulfoacetate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 235000019333 sodium laurylsulphate Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- KHCOJQDJOCNUGV-UHFFFAOYSA-M sodium;2-[methyl(tetradecanoyl)amino]acetate Chemical compound [Na+].CCCCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)N(C)CC([O-])=O KHCOJQDJOCNUGV-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 1
- CDGJVLFXHHVFFL-UHFFFAOYSA-M sodium;tetradecanoyl sulfate Chemical compound [Na+].CCCCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)OS([O-])(=O)=O CDGJVLFXHHVFFL-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 1
- 235000012424 soybean oil Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000003549 soybean oil Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000007480 spreading Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000003892 spreading Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000003381 stabilizer Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000008107 starch Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000019698 starch Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000001959 sucrose esters of fatty acids Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000010965 sucrose esters of fatty acids Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000011593 sulfur Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229910052717 sulfur Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 238000005211 surface analysis Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000003746 surface roughness Effects 0.000 description 1
- 229940104261 taurate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- XOAAWQZATWQOTB-UHFFFAOYSA-N taurine Chemical compound NCCS(O)(=O)=O XOAAWQZATWQOTB-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- BORJONZPSTVSFP-UHFFFAOYSA-N tetradecyl 2-hydroxypropanoate Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCOC(=O)C(C)O BORJONZPSTVSFP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- DZKXJUASMGQEMA-UHFFFAOYSA-N tetradecyl tetradecanoate Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCOC(=O)CCCCCCCCCCCCC DZKXJUASMGQEMA-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 125000000383 tetramethylene group Chemical group [H]C([H])([*:1])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])[*:2] 0.000 description 1
- 150000004044 tetrasaccharides Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 229940124597 therapeutic agent Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 239000010409 thin film Substances 0.000 description 1
- 210000001519 tissue Anatomy 0.000 description 1
- 229930003799 tocopherol Natural products 0.000 description 1
- 229960001295 tocopherol Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 239000011732 tocopherol Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000010384 tocopherol Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 229940042585 tocopherol acetate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 229930003802 tocotrienol Natural products 0.000 description 1
- 239000011731 tocotrienol Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000019148 tocotrienols Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 238000011200 topical administration Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000000699 topical effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000037317 transdermal delivery Effects 0.000 description 1
- 150000003626 triacylglycerols Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- HTJNEBVCZXHBNJ-XCTPRCOBSA-H trimagnesium;(2r)-2-[(1s)-1,2-dihydroxyethyl]-3,4-dihydroxy-2h-furan-5-one;diphosphate Chemical compound [Mg+2].[Mg+2].[Mg+2].[O-]P([O-])([O-])=O.[O-]P([O-])([O-])=O.OC[C@H](O)[C@H]1OC(=O)C(O)=C1O HTJNEBVCZXHBNJ-XCTPRCOBSA-H 0.000 description 1
- LINXHFKHZLOLEI-UHFFFAOYSA-N trimethyl-[phenyl-bis(trimethylsilyloxy)silyl]oxysilane Chemical compound C[Si](C)(C)O[Si](O[Si](C)(C)C)(O[Si](C)(C)C)C1=CC=CC=C1 LINXHFKHZLOLEI-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 235000021122 unsaturated fatty acids Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 150000004670 unsaturated fatty acids Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 230000000007 visual effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 235000019164 vitamin B2 Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000011716 vitamin B2 Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000019160 vitamin B3 Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000011708 vitamin B3 Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000011726 vitamin B6 Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000019158 vitamin B6 Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 235000019154 vitamin C Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000011718 vitamin C Substances 0.000 description 1
- 150000003700 vitamin C derivatives Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 235000019166 vitamin D Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000011710 vitamin D Substances 0.000 description 1
- 150000003710 vitamin D derivatives Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 235000019165 vitamin E Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000011709 vitamin E Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229940046009 vitamin E Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 150000003712 vitamin E derivatives Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 229940045997 vitamin a Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 229940011671 vitamin b6 Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 229940046008 vitamin d Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 230000037303 wrinkles Effects 0.000 description 1
- GVJHHUAWPYXKBD-IEOSBIPESA-N α-tocopherol Chemical compound OC1=C(C)C(C)=C2O[C@@](CCC[C@H](C)CCC[C@H](C)CCCC(C)C)(C)CCC2=C1C GVJHHUAWPYXKBD-IEOSBIPESA-N 0.000 description 1
Classifications
-
- G—PHYSICS
- G01—MEASURING; TESTING
- G01N—INVESTIGATING OR ANALYSING MATERIALS BY DETERMINING THEIR CHEMICAL OR PHYSICAL PROPERTIES
- G01N33/00—Investigating or analysing materials by specific methods not covered by groups G01N1/00 - G01N31/00
- G01N33/48—Biological material, e.g. blood, urine; Haemocytometers
- G01N33/50—Chemical analysis of biological material, e.g. blood, urine; Testing involving biospecific ligand binding methods; Immunological testing
- G01N33/5005—Chemical analysis of biological material, e.g. blood, urine; Testing involving biospecific ligand binding methods; Immunological testing involving human or animal cells
- G01N33/5008—Chemical analysis of biological material, e.g. blood, urine; Testing involving biospecific ligand binding methods; Immunological testing involving human or animal cells for testing or evaluating the effect of chemical or biological compounds, e.g. drugs, cosmetics
- G01N33/5082—Supracellular entities, e.g. tissue, organisms
-
- G—PHYSICS
- G01—MEASURING; TESTING
- G01N—INVESTIGATING OR ANALYSING MATERIALS BY DETERMINING THEIR CHEMICAL OR PHYSICAL PROPERTIES
- G01N21/00—Investigating or analysing materials by the use of optical means, i.e. using sub-millimetre waves, infrared, visible or ultraviolet light
- G01N21/62—Systems in which the material investigated is excited whereby it emits light or causes a change in wavelength of the incident light
- G01N21/63—Systems in which the material investigated is excited whereby it emits light or causes a change in wavelength of the incident light optically excited
- G01N21/64—Fluorescence; Phosphorescence
- G01N21/645—Specially adapted constructive features of fluorimeters
- G01N21/6456—Spatial resolved fluorescence measurements; Imaging
- G01N21/6458—Fluorescence microscopy
-
- G—PHYSICS
- G01—MEASURING; TESTING
- G01N—INVESTIGATING OR ANALYSING MATERIALS BY DETERMINING THEIR CHEMICAL OR PHYSICAL PROPERTIES
- G01N21/00—Investigating or analysing materials by the use of optical means, i.e. using sub-millimetre waves, infrared, visible or ultraviolet light
- G01N21/62—Systems in which the material investigated is excited whereby it emits light or causes a change in wavelength of the incident light
- G01N21/63—Systems in which the material investigated is excited whereby it emits light or causes a change in wavelength of the incident light optically excited
- G01N21/65—Raman scattering
-
- G—PHYSICS
- G01—MEASURING; TESTING
- G01N—INVESTIGATING OR ANALYSING MATERIALS BY DETERMINING THEIR CHEMICAL OR PHYSICAL PROPERTIES
- G01N21/00—Investigating or analysing materials by the use of optical means, i.e. using sub-millimetre waves, infrared, visible or ultraviolet light
- G01N21/62—Systems in which the material investigated is excited whereby it emits light or causes a change in wavelength of the incident light
- G01N21/63—Systems in which the material investigated is excited whereby it emits light or causes a change in wavelength of the incident light optically excited
- G01N21/65—Raman scattering
- G01N2021/653—Coherent methods [CARS]
- G01N2021/656—Raman microprobe
Landscapes
- Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
- Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
- Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
- Immunology (AREA)
- Biomedical Technology (AREA)
- Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
- Pathology (AREA)
- General Physics & Mathematics (AREA)
- General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
- Biochemistry (AREA)
- Analytical Chemistry (AREA)
- Physics & Mathematics (AREA)
- Molecular Biology (AREA)
- Hematology (AREA)
- Cell Biology (AREA)
- Urology & Nephrology (AREA)
- Nuclear Medicine, Radiotherapy & Molecular Imaging (AREA)
- Medicinal Chemistry (AREA)
- Biotechnology (AREA)
- Tropical Medicine & Parasitology (AREA)
- Toxicology (AREA)
- Bioinformatics & Cheminformatics (AREA)
- Food Science & Technology (AREA)
- Microbiology (AREA)
- Cosmetics (AREA)
- Investigating Or Analysing Biological Materials (AREA)
Abstract
公开确定化妆品组合物或包含的一种或多种成分抑制颗粒污染物接触皮肤的功效的体外方法,包括步骤:(i)使人体皮肤等效物与化妆品组合物接触以在干燥后形成沿相互垂直的X、Y和Z轴延伸的层,其中该层沿Z轴为1至100μm,其中Z轴表示层的厚度;(ii)在层上沉积已知量的包含响应深度剖面分析的第一物质的模型微细颗粒物质,其中化妆品组合物包含未包含在模型微细颗粒物质中但也响应深度剖面分析的第二物质,其中第一和第二物质的响应可区分;(iii)在沉积模型微细颗粒物质的预定时间段内,通过深度剖面分析定期测量第一和第二物质的响应从而确定模型微细颗粒物质在沿Z轴的规定间隔处的量;和(iv)基于在整个预定时间段内在沿着Z轴的规定间隔处模型微细颗粒物质的量来确定所述功效。
Description
技术领域
本发明涉及一种评价化妆品组合物功效的方法。更具体地,本发明涉及一种评价免洗型化妆品组合物防止或抑制颗粒污染物接触皮肤的功效的方法。
背景技术
世界卫生组织(WHO)报告,室外空气污染源于自然和人为的来源。虽然自然来源对更容易发生森林火灾和沙尘暴的干旱地区的当地空气污染有很大影响,但人类活动的影响远远超过自然来源。
这些人类活动包括燃料燃烧、供热和发电以及工业设施(例如制造工厂、矿山和炼油厂)。WHO将污染物分类为颗粒物质、黑碳、地面臭氧及碳、氮和硫的氧化物。
颗粒物质(PM)是由硫酸盐、硝酸盐、氨、氯化钠、黑碳、矿物粉尘和水组成的可吸入颗粒。直径小于10微米的颗粒(PM10),包括小于2.5微米的微细颗粒(PM2.5),对健康构成最大风险,因为它们可能进入肺和血流。炭黑(煤烟)和灰尘(矿物质氧化物,如铁氧化物等)构成了这些尺寸范围内的大部分颗粒物质。
WHO将空气污染定义为任何改变大气自然特征的化学、物理或生物剂对室内或室外环境的污染。美国环境保护署(EPA)和WHO总结了全球常见大气污染物的范围。另外,关于污染对人体皮肤的不利影响有数不清的报告和科学出版物。这些不利影响包括过早老化、细纹和皱纹的发生、色斑、过度色素沉着、皮疹和炎症。
一些化妆品组合物声称通过形成保护层来防止、抑制或限制颗粒污染物接触人体皮肤,即部分或完全阻断环境污染物如颗粒、氧化物/过氧化物和气体接触人体皮肤的能力。制剂学家经常发现有必要能够用证据来证实这种说法。因此,一些制造商和研究人员公布了他们自己的测试/分析或验证这类组合物的功效的方法。这类方法的目的是确定候选化妆品组合物的功效。有时,目的还在于比较一种或多种组合物或活性成分(例如聚合物)的功效,并对其进行相应的分级。这些测试中的一些是在人类志愿者身上进行的。其他的一些在合适的皮肤等效物如塑料膜、活体皮肤等效物、体外皮肤模型、离体皮肤等上进行。虽然人体皮肤等效物是这类测试方法的一个组成部分,但选择适当的污染物同样重要。然而,并非总是可能对现实生活中的污染物进行测试,因此经常使用模型污染物。
DE4340827 C1(Aerochemica,1995)公开了一种用于体外确定对化学物质和物质混合物的效力的方法和装置。化妆品的屏障效应在皮肤模拟膜(如硝酸纤维素、尼龙或PTFE)的预定表面上以明确的量和厚度确定。相关组合物被施加到该膜上。随后,将膜夹置在特定的干燥试纸上,铺展并拉伸,同时保持与膜的平面接触。然后,在化妆品层上施加限定污染物的测量液滴。根据制剂的效力,污染物可以快速渗透并触发试纸的颜色变化。这一变化利用统计上分割的光纤束将白色光照射通过光纤照射到试纸上进行监测。其余约50%的接收光纤吸收散射光并将其引导至检测器。这里有信号过滤和放大,然后记录。例如,光电二极管接收来自光缆的光,放大器线性或对数放大(取决于试纸的颜色变化),并通过输出将信号提供给记录器。
DE4340827 C1中公开的方法依赖于视觉颜色变化指示剂的使用,因此使用该方法有可能发现颜色何时发生变化,从而告知膜不再能够提供屏障效应的时间点。
Zhai等在Contact Dermatitis,1996,35,92-96中公开了一种用于测量皮肤防护霜对两种染料指示溶液的效力的体内方法:水中的亚甲基蓝和乙醇中的油红,它们是模式亲水和亲油化合物的代表。通过在各种不同的施用时间后测量所保护皮肤样品的氰基丙烯酸酯条中的染料分析了三种商业组合物。对6名正常志愿者(女性3名和男性3名,平均年龄26.8岁)的前臂的弯曲表面进行处理。
制备5%亚甲蓝水溶液和5%油红乙醇溶液,并借助于铝质闭合室(aluminiumocclusive chamber)分别施用于未处理的皮肤和防护霜预处理的皮肤0小时和4小时。在施用时间结束时,将防护霜移除。进行1至4个条的连续皮肤表面活组织检查(SSB)。通过比色法(Chroma Meter CR 300)测定每个条中的污渍量,并计算每次测量中1至4个条的污渍的累积量。累积量代表每种溶液在每个时间点的渗透量,以及皮肤屏障霜的功效。
Marks等的有些类似的方法在British Journal of Dermatology(1989)120,655-6中公开。
Nizard等在H&PC Today,10(1)January/February 2015中公开了一种方法。在该方法中,将皮肤外植体在贴片下暴露于32种污染物(27种重金属和5种碳氢化合物)作为污染损害的离体模型。作者的配方声称提供针对污染损害(皮肤形态完整性评分)和脂质过氧化(通过丙二醛测量)的保护。由于他们的配方是在具有污染物的贴片之前施加于外植体,因此该配方形成了物理屏障。
Dow Corning公开了一种用于定量其产品Splash Shield所赋予的针对颗粒附着的保护程度的测试方法。在胶原上形成测试材料的薄膜,随后进行表面分析和暴露于炭黑重复分析。
此外,Dow Corning也公开了另一种测试方法,其中测试材料被涂覆在合成基底上,臭氧可通过该合成基底扩散。另一端是包含有染料溶液的容器,该染料溶液在与臭氧接触时发生颜色变化。颜色的强度与测试材料提供的保护成反比。
BASF公开了一种确定其名为的产品对香烟烟雾的功效的体外模型。该方法依赖于人体皮肤的器官型培养物,在其上施用相关产品,然后暴露于烟雾。随后进行活组织检查和共焦显微镜检查以确定目标化合物提供的保护程度。
Olivarius等在Contact Dermatitis,1996,35,219-225中公开了一种依赖结晶紫的颜色的方法,当涂在皮肤上时,结晶紫与角蛋白(角质层)牢固结合。当用防水乳膏对皮肤进行预处理时,结晶紫水溶液的渗透受到削弱,导致较少的结合和较浅的颜色。通过比较通过测量皮肤反射率量化的强度,视觉评估不同乳膏的相对功效。低反射率指示高结合力。乳膏提供的保护以乳膏诱导的额外耐色性(colour resistance)(x-y)除以可获得的最大额外耐色性(100-y)计算。
EP1760440 A1(P&G)公开了一种方法,其包括以下步骤:
选择与待测定的护肤组合物的效力相关联的拉曼活性物质;
(i)使用共焦拉曼光谱测量皮肤测试区域内作为深度的函数的所述拉曼活性物质的浓度分布;
(ii)测定所述测试区域内角质层的厚度;然后
(iii)将护肤组合物施用于所述测试区域;然后
(iv)使用共焦拉曼光谱测量所述测试区域内作为深度的函数的所述拉曼活性物质的浓度分布;
(v)测定所述测试区域内角质层的厚度;然后
(vi)随着两者的变化计算护肤组合物的效力:在施用护肤组合物之后和之前拉曼活性物质的浓度分布;和施用护肤组合物之后和之前角质层的厚度。
WO18029673 A1(Ahava Dead Sea Laboratories Ltd)公开了包含至少一种死海提取物和至少一种多糖的组合物,其中所述多糖的重复单元是由两个D-葡萄糖残基、一个L-岩藻糖残基和一个D-葡醛酸残基组成的四糖。该制剂可用作抗污染的皮肤保护剂。
US20020071820 A1(L'Oreal)公开了立方凝胶颗粒作为抗污染剂用于保护身体免受污染的影响的用途,其包括对角蛋白材料施用在生理上可接受的介质中含有有效量的立方凝胶颗粒的组合物。立方凝胶颗粒优选在水性分散体中,并且优选由选自3,7,11,15-四甲基-1,2,3-十六碳三醇、植烷三醇(phytanetriol)、N-甲基葡糖胺和不饱和脂肪酸单甘油酯的N-2-烷氧基羰基衍生物的化合物以及由分散和稳定剂,或者由至少两种两亲性化合物的混合物形成,其中一种两亲性化合物优选能够在水的存在下形成层状相,和另一种优选能够在水的存在下形成反六角相。
尽管有上述公开的方法,仍需要一种稳健的体外方法以尽可能准确地确定化妆品组合物的短期和长期功效,该化妆品组合物通过在皮肤表面和污染物之间形成保护层来防止或至少延迟大气颗粒状污染物与人体皮肤的接触。这种信息可能有助于配制更有效的组合物,或能够根据其功效选择一种组合物而非其他一些组合物。
本发明通过克服现有技术的至少一个缺点、劣势或限制来满足需求。
发明内容
根据第一方面,公开了一种用于确定化妆品组合物或其中包含的一种或多种成分抑制颗粒污染物接触皮肤的功效的体外方法,所述方法包括以下步骤:
(i)使人体皮肤等效物与化妆品组合物接触以在干燥后形成沿相互垂直的X、Y和Z轴延伸的化妆品组合物的层,其中所述层沿所述Z轴为1至100μm,其中所述Z轴表示所述层的厚度;
(ii)在所述层上沉积已知量的包含响应于深度剖面分析(depth profileanalysis)的第一物质的模型微细颗粒物质,其中所述化妆品组合物包含未包含在所述模型微细颗粒物质中但也响应于所述深度剖面分析的第二物质,其中所述第一和第二物质的响应是可区分的;
(iii)在沉积所述模型微细颗粒物质后的预定时间段内,通过所述深度剖面分析定期测量所述第一和所述第二物质的响应,从而确定所述模型微细颗粒物质在沿所述Z轴的规定间隔处的量;和
(iv)基于在整个所述预定时间段内在沿所述Z轴的所述规定间隔处所述模型微细颗粒物质的量来确定所述功效。
根据第二方面,公开了一种证明化妆品组合物或其中包含的活性成分抑制大气污染物接触皮肤的功效的方法,包括以下步骤:
(i)使人体皮肤等效物与化妆品组合物接触以在干燥后形成沿相互垂直的X、Y和Z轴延伸的化妆品组合物层,其中所述层沿所述Z轴为1至100μm,其中所述Z轴表示所述层的厚度;
(ii)在所述层上沉积已知量的包含响应于深度剖面分析的第一物质的模型微细颗粒物质,其中所述化妆品组合物包含未包含在所述模型微细颗粒物质中但也响应于所述深度剖面分析的第二物质,其中所述第一和第二物质的响应是可区分的;
(iii)在沉积所述模型微细颗粒物质后的预定时间段内,通过所述深度剖面分析定期测量所述第一和所述第二物质的响应,从而确定所述模型微细颗粒物质在沿所述Z轴的规定间隔处的量;和
(iv)基于在整个所述预定时间段内在沿所述Z轴的所述规定间隔处所述模型微细颗粒物质的量,确定并由此证明所述功效。
具体实施方式
本文使用的术语“包含”涵盖术语“主要由…组成”和“由…组成”。当使用术语“包含”时,列出的步骤或选项不必需是穷尽的。除非另有规定,以“x到y”的格式表示的数值范围应理解为包括x和y。在指定任何值或量的范围时,任何特定的较高值或量可与任何特定的较低值或量相关联。除了在实施例和对比实施方案中,或在另有明确说明的情况下,所有数字均应理解为由“约”一词修饰。除非另有说明,本文中包含的所有百分比和比率按重量计算。除非另有说明,本文使用的不定冠词“一”或“一个”及其对应的定冠词“该”指至少一个或者一个或多个。上文单个部分中提及的本发明的各种特征在适当情况下经适当修改后适用于其他各部分。因此,一个部分中指定的特征可在适当情况下与其他部分中指定的特征相结合。增加任何章节标题仅为方便的目的,无意以任何方式限制本公开。本发明不限于附图所示的实施方案。实施例旨在说明本发明,而非旨在将本发明限制于这些实施例本身。
术语化妆品组合物指任何化妆品组合物。更具体地,化妆品组合物是免洗型化妆品。本文中使用的“免洗”是指施用于皮肤且在一段时间内不打算清洗或冲洗掉的组合物,与清洁或清洗或洗去组合物相反。
优选地,免洗型化妆品组合物为精华液、护手霜、面霜、润肤露、化妆组合物如粉底、唇膏、头发定型凝胶、头发定型乳膏和除臭剂以及止汗剂如走珠(roll on)或棒。相应地,组合物可以为上文所述的多种形式。
术语“体外”指根据本发明的方法不在人类志愿者身上进行,例如在人类志愿者的前臂上。
术语“活性成分”指化妆品组合物中包含的抑制或防止颗粒污染物与人体皮肤接触的任何成分,包括成膜聚合物。其非限制性例子包括硅氧烷聚合物和天然产物的提取物,例如任何植物的根或叶的提取物。
人体皮肤如天然的护盾一样发挥作用,其保护我们的身体免受外部影响。但是,有时和在某些情况下,皮肤可能不再充分和有效地发挥这一功能。有大量证据证实大气污染物影响人体皮肤的正常功能。至少在一些国家或世界的一些地区,颗粒污染物往往位居榜首。
制剂学家已经探索并持续探索更新和更有效的化妆品组合物以保护皮肤免受颗粒污染物的影响,包括可以抵抗、限制或防止这类污染物与皮肤接触的组合物或活性剂。然而,如背景技术和现有技术部分中详细讨论的,需要一种更稳健和可靠的方法来证明这些组合物的功效。本发明至少部分地解决了这样的需求。
术语颗粒污染物,也称为颗粒物质或PM,指在空气中浮动的固体物质和液体小滴的混合物。一些颗粒直接从特定来源释放,而另一些颗粒在大气中的复杂化学反应中形成。合适的例子包括灰尘、污垢、煤烟或烟雾。颗粒污染物按颗粒大小描述:PM2.5和PM10,其分别具有小于2.5μm和10μm的空气动力学直径。优选地,在根据本发明的方法中,模型微细颗粒物质至少在尺寸上类似于PM2.5或PM10。
根据本发明的方法在人体皮肤等效物上实施,即类似人类的皮肤的材料。优选地,人体皮肤等效物是人造皮肤或活体皮肤等效物。进一步优选地,其为再生组织。目前,可用于此类应用的几种HSE商购可得。实例包括 和这些HSE可分为三大类:表皮、真皮和全厚度模型。特别优选的人体皮肤等效物是这是一种聚合物人造皮肤。其他等效物包括硝酸纤维素、尼龙或PTFE膜。
第一步包括使人体皮肤等效物与化妆品组合物接触以在干燥后形成沿相互垂直的X、Y和Z轴延伸的化妆品组合物层,其中所述层沿所述Z轴为1至100μm,其中所述Z轴表示所述层的厚度。沿着X轴和Y轴,只要该层占据的面积足以允许进行分析就是可以接受的。
可能需要的是能够尽可能准确地确定模型污染物在一段时间内从大气渗透的动力学,从而能够确定化妆品组合物声称通过在皮肤和污染物之间尽可能形成屏障来防止或至少延迟大气颗粒物与人体皮肤的接触的短期功效和长期功效。通常,在将免洗型化妆品组合物施用到皮肤上一段时间后,该组合物在皮肤上形成层,其执行预期的功能。当这种化妆品旨在用作针对环境污染物(例如PM2.5)的屏障时,在初始阶段该层有效地防止或阻止污染物与皮肤的接触。但是,经过一段时间后,污染物可能进入该层的本体中,且然后试图向皮肤迁移。根据组合物的性质和其中的活性成分(如果存在)如成膜聚合物的功效,该层将在可能的范围内阻止这种迁移。最终,污染物甚至可能穿过该层并与皮肤形成接触。
优选地,所述量等于在使用条件下施用的量。化妆品组合物通常包含水、其他挥发性溶剂或油。在将组合物施用于皮肤后,水和其他挥发性溶剂蒸发。另一方面,当组合物包含油时,油倾向于被皮肤吸收。最终,组合物变干并在皮肤上留下膜或层,根据施用量或推荐的施用量,该膜或层的范围可从几微米到几千微米。
下一步骤包括模拟人体皮肤与模型颗粒污染物的接触。这是通过在所述层上沉积已知量的包含响应于深度剖面分析的第一物质的模型微细颗粒物质来进行的,其中所述化妆品组合物包含未包含在所述模型微细颗粒物质中但也响应于所述深度剖面分析的第二物质,其中所述第一和第二物质的响应是可区分的。第一和第二物质的响应根据物质的性质而变化,例如,在共焦显微分析的情况下,响应被测量为荧光强度,并且可以基于发射辐射的波长进行区分。
下一步骤包括,在沉积所述模型微细颗粒物质后的预定时间段内,通过所述深度剖面分析定期测量所述第一和所述第二物质的响应,从而确定所述模型微细颗粒物质在沿所述Z轴的规定间隔处的量。预定时间段优选为1至480分钟,更优选为1至240分钟,并且其通过实验所用时间和分析方法的性质决定。
优选的是通过共焦拉曼光谱、共焦激光扫描显微术、飞行时间二次离子质谱、光学相干断层扫描术、XPS、辉光放电质谱、辉光放电光发射谱、激光消融离子耦合等离子体质谱或二次离子质谱进行深度剖面分析,并且所述物质响应于所述深度剖面分析。更优选地,所述深度剖面分析通过共焦激光扫描显微术或共焦拉曼光谱进行,并且所述物质相应地响应于所述深度剖面分析。
优选地,模型微细颗粒物质包含合成聚合物材料、天然聚合物材料、水不溶性盐、矿物质、金属、合金、玻璃或其混合物。进一步优选地,合成聚合物材料为聚酰胺、聚乙酸酯、聚酯、聚丙烯酸酯、聚苯乙烯、聚乙烯、聚丙烯、人造丝(rayon)、聚氯乙烯或其混合物。进一步优选地,天然聚合物材料为纤维素、再生纤维素、淀粉、微晶纤维素或其混合物。特别优选的是,模型微细颗粒物质为包含聚苯乙烯和荧光材料的珠的形式,显微成像技术为荧光显微术。在这种情况下,优选地模型微细颗粒物质的直径为10nm至50000nm。这使得实验更加容易。进一步优选地,荧光材料吸收和发射500至2500nm波长的辐射。在这种情况下,优选地发射辐射的荧光强度与激发辐射一同地(in-line)测量。
特别优选的材料是荧光探针(Fluorescent Probes),它是来自PolysciencesInc.的基于聚苯乙烯的颗粒(直径1μm),带有荧光标记。优选地,荧光材料吸收和发射400至700nm波长的辐射。进一步优选地,荧光信号在两个通道中记录,第一通道在470至550nm(绿色)范围内,而第二通道在590至700nm(红色)范围内。在进一步优选的方面,0.2μg/cm2-20μg/cm2的模型污染物沉积在所述层上。为尽可能模拟实际生活情况,模型颗粒物质的量应足以模拟这样的情况。
优选地,沿所述Z轴的图像(其指示所述模型颗粒物质的所述量)以0.1至1μm的间隔采集以生成多个图像栈。进一步优选的是,每个所述栈的厚度为5至8μm。
一旦获得所有所需的图像,优选地通过图像分析软件对图像进行分析以确定每个相继的间隔处所述模型污染物的颗粒数量,其中每个相继间隔处所述颗粒的数量指示其在每个所述间隔处的量。优选地软件是ImageJ。或者,可以使用任何等同软件。
就候选化妆品组合物的功效而言,优选地以在预定时间段结束时已渗透该层的模型微细颗粒物质与该时间段开始时的其总量相比的百分比量来测量。优选地,如果该百分比低于30%,则认为组合物有效。进一步优选地,如果在所述预定时间段结束时,少于10%的所述模型微细颗粒物质到达从所述层接近于人造皮肤的一端计算的2μm内的间隔,则组合物被认为是高度有效的。
根据本发明的方法可用于区分第一组合物与不同的第二组合物的功效。在这种情况下,步骤(i)至(iii)首先在第一组合物上进行,然后在不同的第二组合物上重复,以由此比较所述第一组合物和所述第二组合物的功效。
或者,第一组合物包含一定量的成膜聚合物,并且所述第二组合物包含不同量的相同成膜聚合物,其中所述第一组合物和所述第二组合物除了所述量之外是相同的。优选地,第一组合物包含一定量的第一成分,并且所述第二组合物包含相同量或不同量的另一种成分。
根据本发明的演示可用于任何消费者推广事件,或消费者演示,例如在购物中心、超市或消费者交易会中。该演示也可能有助于宣称支持(claim support)和广告宣传。
该方法在大约0.25g/cm2皮肤的低得多的污染物剂量下提供了可靠的结果,其更好地反映了暴露于污染物(尤其是颗粒污染物)的皮肤的真实情况。
组合物
组合物可直接应用于皮肤。或者,它们可以通过各种透皮递送***(例如本领域已知的透皮贴片)递送。例如,对于局部施用,活性成分可以通过本领域已知的方法以化妆品可接受的形式配制成溶液、凝胶、洗液、软膏、乳膏、混悬剂、糊剂、擦剂、粉末、酊剂、气雾剂、贴片等。该组合物可以是化妆品领域中常见的用于人体局部施用的多种形式中的任何一种。
该组合物可制成广泛多样的产品类型,包括但不限于溶液、混悬液、洗液、乳膏、凝胶、调色剂、棒、喷雾剂、软膏、糊剂、泡沫、粉末、摩丝、条、贴片、电动贴片、水凝胶、成膜产品、面膜和皮膜、化妆品如粉底等。这些产品类型可包含几种类型的化妆品可接受的载体,包括但不限于溶液、混悬液、乳液(如微乳液和纳米乳液)、凝胶、固体和脂质体。
该组合物可以配制成包含水性或有机溶剂的溶液,例如50-90wt%的化妆品可接受的水性或有机溶剂。合适的有机溶剂的实例包括:丙二醇、聚乙二醇(200-600)、聚丙二醇(425-2025)、甘油、1,2,4-丁三醇和山梨醇酯。
洗液可由这种溶液制成。洗液通常含有约1%至约20%重量的润肤剂和50%至90%重量的水。
可以从溶液配制的另一类型的产品是乳膏。乳膏通常含有5-50wt%的润肤剂和45-85wt%的水。
本文所述的组合物也可配制成乳液。如果载体是乳液,则1-10wt%的载体包含乳化剂。乳化剂可以是非离子型、阴离子型或阳离子型的。
洗液和乳膏可以制成乳液。通常,这类洗液包含0.5至5wt%的乳化剂,而这类乳膏通常包含1至20wt%的乳化剂。
水包油型和油包水型的单一乳液护肤制剂,例如洗液和乳膏,在本领域中是众所周知的,并且可用于本文所述的组合物和方法。多相乳液组合物,例如水包油包水型或油包水包油型,也可用于本文所述的组合物和方法。一般地,这种单一或多相乳液包含水、润肤剂和乳化剂作为基本成分。
本文所述的组合物也可以配制成凝胶(例如,使用合适的胶凝剂的水性凝胶、醇凝胶、醇/水凝胶或油凝胶)。用于水性和/或醇性凝胶的合适胶凝剂包括但不限于天然树胶、丙烯酸和丙烯酸酯聚合物和共聚物,以及纤维素衍生物(例如,羟甲基纤维素和羟丙基纤维素)。用于油(如矿物油)的合适胶凝剂包括但不限于氢化丁烯/乙烯/苯乙烯共聚物和氢化乙烯/丙烯/苯乙烯共聚物。这类凝胶通常含有0.1-5wt%的胶凝剂。
本文所述化妆品组合物通常可包含本文所述的任何化合物或组合物的衍生物以及任选的极性溶剂。适用于本文所述制剂的溶剂包括能够溶解该衍生物的任何极性溶剂。合适的极性溶剂可包括:水;醇类(如乙醇、丙醇、异丙醇、己醇和苯甲醇);多元醇类(如丙二醇、聚丙二醇、丁二醇、己二醇、麦芽糖醇、山梨糖醇和甘油);和溶解在甘油、香料油及其混合物中的泛醇。也可以使用这些溶剂的混合物。示例性的极性溶剂可以是多元醇和水。溶剂的实例可包括甘油、甘油中的泛醇、二醇如丙二醇和丁二醇、聚乙二醇、水及其混合物。使用的另外的极性溶剂可以是醇类、甘油、泛醇、丙二醇、丁二醇、己二醇及其混合物。
也可以加入润肤剂。润肤剂成分可包含脂肪、油、脂肪醇、脂肪酸和酯,其有助于涂抹和粘附,产生光泽并提供封闭保湿作用。使用的合适润肤剂可以是异硬脂酸衍生物、棕榈酸异丙酯、羊毛脂油、二聚酸(dimerate)二异丙酯、马来酸化大豆油、棕榈酸辛酯、异硬脂酸异丙酯、乳酸十六酯、蓖麻油酸十六酯、醋酸生育酚、乙酰化羊毛脂醇、乙酸十六酯、苯基聚三甲基硅氧烷、油酸甘油酯、亚油酸生育酚、小麦胚芽油甘油酯(wheat germ glycerides)、花生醇丙酸酯、乳酸肉豆蔻酯、油酸癸酯、蓖麻油酸丙二醇酯、亚油酸异丙酯、四硬脂酸季戊四醇酯、二辛酸/二葵酸新戊二醇酯、氢化可可-甘油酯、异壬酸异壬酯、异壬酸异十三烷醇酯、肉豆蔻酸肉豆蔻酯、柠檬酸三异十六烷基酯、十六烷醇、辛基十二烷醇、油醇、泛醇、羊毛脂醇、亚油酸、亚麻酸、脂肪酸的蔗糖酯、辛基羟基硬脂酸酯及其混合物。其他合适的润肤剂的例子可在Cosmetic Bench Reference,(1996)或International Cosmetic IngredientDictionary and Handbook,eds.Wenninger and McEwen,pp.1656-61,1626和1654-55(TheCosmetic,Toiletry,and Fragrance Assoc.,Washington,D.C.,7.sup.th Edition,1997)(以下简称“ICI手册”)中找到。
其他合适的固体/液体试剂可包括维生素及其衍生物。本发明的组合物可包含维生素作为所需的活性成分。说明性的维生素是维生素A(视黄醇)以及视黄醇酯,如视黄醇棕榈酸酯和视黄醇丙酸酯、维生素B2、维生素B3(烟酰胺)、维生素B6、维生素C、维生素D、维生素E、叶酸和生物素。也可以使用维生素的衍生物。例如,维生素C衍生物包括四异棕榈酸抗坏血酸酯、磷酸抗坏血酸酯镁和抗坏血酸糖苷。维生素E的衍生物包括乙酸生育酚、生育三烯酚、棕榈酸生育酚和亚油酸生育酚。也可以使用DL-泛醇及衍生物。组合物中存在的维生素的总量范围可为0.001-10%。
防晒剂也可以作为固体/液体试剂包含在本发明的组合物中。特别优选的是如磺酸苯基苯并咪唑(Ensulizole)、水杨酸乙基己酯(水杨酸辛酯)、对甲氧基肉桂酸乙基己酯(作为Parsol MCX.RTM可得)、Avobenzene(作为Parsol可得)和二苯甲酮-3(也称为)的材料。另外,也是合适的。防晒剂的量(当存在时)通常可以在0.1-30wt%的范围内。
合适的油包括酯类、甘油三酯、碳氢化合物和硅酮类。这些可以是单一材料或一种或多种材料的混合物。它们通常可占0.5-90wt%。
可用于本文所述组合物中的表面活性剂的例子包括烷基硫酸钠(例如,十二烷基硫酸钠和肉豆蔻酰基硫酸钠)、N-酰基肌氨酸钠(例如,N-月桂酰基肌氨酸钠和N-肉豆蔻酰基肌氨酸钠)、十二烷基苯磺酸钠、氢化椰油脂肪酸单甘酯硫酸钠、月桂基磺基乙酸钠和N-酰基谷氨酸盐(例如,N-棕榈酰基谷氨酸盐)、N-甲基酰基牛磺酸钠盐、N-甲基酰基丙氨酸钠盐、α-烯烃磺酸钠和二辛基磺基琥珀酸钠;N-烷基氨基甘油(例如,N-月桂基-二氨基乙基甘油和N-肉豆蔻基二氨基乙基甘油)、N-烷基-N-羧甲基铵甜菜碱和2-烷基-1-羟乙基咪唑啉钠甜菜碱;聚氧乙烯烷基醚、聚氧乙烯烷基芳基醚、聚氧乙烯羊毛脂醇、聚氧乙烯甘油单脂肪酸酯、聚氧乙烯山梨醇脂肪酸酯、聚氧乙烯脂肪酸酯、高级脂肪酸甘油酯、脱水山梨糖醇脂肪酸酯、Pluronic型表面活性剂和聚氧乙烯脱水山梨糖醇脂肪酸酯如聚氧乙烯脱水山梨糖醇单油酸酯和聚氧乙烯脱水山梨糖醇单月桂酸酯。本领域技术人员已知的乳化剂型表面活性剂可用于本文所述的组合物中。
根据组合物的类型,表面活性剂的用量可以为4-90%。
另外,这些组合物可包括治疗剂、载体、辅助剂等。一些特定的附加试剂可包括类视黄醇;抗氧化剂;羟基酸;脂肪酸、天然存在的氨基酸或羟烷基酸的可接受的非毒性金属盐;植物提取物、水杨酸、角质层分离剂、络合剂、着色剂和香料成分。
现在将通过以下非限制性实施例详细描述本发明。
实施例
实施例1
来自Polysciences的YG羧酸酯微球(2.5%水性悬浮液)用作模型PM2.5,其为单分散聚苯乙烯颗粒,标称直径为0.50μm。其最大激发和发射光谱分别为441nm和486nm。已知在疏水环境中发强烈荧光的尼罗红(Molecular Probe,UK)用于对护肤霜(skin cream)的油相进行着色以指示其中在水分蒸发后乳膏膜所在的位置。其激发和发射光谱分别为559nm和637nm。
选择来自用Dow corning的硅树脂MQ1640(MQ)测试其封闭功效,因为其是由于成膜性能而得到公认的聚合物。
制备了以下两种化妆品乳膏(基于o/w乳液)。
表1
通过立方涂膜器将溶媒基质(vehicle base)(校准溶媒基质)(有或没有MQ)的产物膜以75μm的厚度(干燥后的膜厚度=7微米)施用在上。将膜干燥至少30分钟。YG羧酸酯微球悬浮液用去离子水稀释80倍[13]。将稀释的悬浮液填充到塑料化妆品喷雾瓶中。持续按压喷雾按钮直至形成稳定的液体形式的流。喷雾瓶与2.3节中所描述的目标产物膜保持5cm的恒定距离。然后,在目标上施加两次喷雾。样品温育3小时。模型颗粒污染物的剂量为1μg/cm2。
使用Leica SP5激光扫描共聚焦显微镜获得图像。使用488nm(氩)激光(20%强度)激发样品。选择50x/干物镜观察样品。荧光信号分别在470-550nm(绿色)和590-700nm(红色)的两个单独通道中记录。缩放因子设置为4以更清晰地检测500nm颗粒。在73.8×73.8μm2的视野中随机选择感兴趣的区域。每隔0.5μm收集z方向上的图像以生成图像栈。记录的每个图像栈深度为5至8μm。为防止选择偏差,对于每个乳膏膜至少记录三个随机的感兴趣的区域。此外,对采集的整个图像进行下述分析。
使用存在困难,因为它不是平坦的。所选择的一些视野在整个图像上显示出倾斜的乳膏表面,这将给图像分析带来挑战。为了减轻这些困难,在乳膏膜涂布并干燥后,通过双面胶带固定在显微镜玻璃载片上。并且仔细选择感兴趣的区域以避免倾斜的样品。类似地,较深的图像栈被用于颗粒数量分析以避免表面粗糙度的影响。在73.8×73.8μm2的视野中,颗粒数量与上的皮肤乳膏深度。左侧选定区域的放大区域。护肤霜覆盖率达到相对稳定值的点被设定为皮肤深度零。且然后样品中沿Z轴每隔0.5μm记录直至红色荧光(乳膏膜)不再可见。生成的误差棒来自n=3。局部施用在护肤霜膜上的颗粒总数是每一层中计算的颗粒数量的总和。
表2中总结了观察结果。
表2
局部施用在有和没有MQ的乳膏膜上的颗粒的总数彼此相似。且在不添加MQ的情况下,约12%(840个中的100个)可以到达基底,而在添加3%的MQ的情况下,未发现任何颗粒到达基底。差异是显著的。
所示实施例清楚地表明,根据本发明的方法是一种用于测量和比较化妆品清洁组合物去除粘着于皮肤的颗粒污染物的功效的有力和可靠的工具。该方法可用于测量和表明化妆品清洁组合物对大气污染物的清洁功效,特别是对颗粒污染物如PM2.5和PM10。测试可以是一元测试,或者成对测试或进一步可选地离散选择测试。该方法的结果可潜在地用于对属于同一产品类别的各种清洁组合物进行相对分级,例如基于皂的清洁剂v/s基于非皂表面活性剂的清洁剂,或甚至在必要时,在属于不同产品类别的两种或多种产品之间进行相对分级,例如洗发剂与皂条。该方法也可用于通过适当配制待测试的候选组合物来确定一种或多种活性成分(例如表面活性剂和聚合物)的功效。此外,本发明的方法还可用作新的或现有的化妆品清洁组合物的消费者推广或激活的演示工具。该方法的结果也可用于宣称的支持。
Claims (15)
1.一种确定化妆品组合物或其中包含的一种或多种成分抑制颗粒污染物接触皮肤的功效的体外方法,所述方法包括以下步骤:
(i)使人体皮肤等效物与化妆品组合物接触以在干燥后形成沿相互垂直的X、Y和Z轴延伸的所述化妆品组合物的层,其中所述层沿所述Z轴为1至100μm,其中所述Z轴表示所述层的厚度;
(ii)在所述层上沉积已知量的包含响应于深度剖面分析的第一物质的模型微细颗粒物质,其中所述化妆品组合物包含未包含在所述模型微细颗粒物质中但也响应于所述深度剖面分析的第二物质,其中所述第一和第二物质的所述响应是可区分的;
(iii)在沉积所述模型微细颗粒物质后的预定时间段内,通过所述深度剖面分析定期测量所述第一和所述第二物质的响应,从而确定所述模型微细颗粒物质在沿所述Z轴的规定间隔处的量;和
(iv)基于在整个所述预定时间段内在沿着所述Z轴的所述规定间隔处所述模型微细颗粒物质的量来确定所述功效。
2.根据权利要求1中任一项所述的方法,其中所述模型微细颗粒物质至少在尺寸上类似于PM2.5或PM10。
3.根据权利要求1或2所述的方法,其中所述深度剖面分析通过共焦拉曼光谱、共焦激光扫描显微术、飞行时间二次离子质谱、光学相干断层扫描、XPS、辉光放电质谱、辉光放电光发射谱、激光消融离子耦合等离子体质谱或二次离子质谱进行,并且所述第一和第二物质相应地响应于所述深度剖面分析。
4.根据权利要求3所述的方法,其中所述深度剖面分析通过共焦激光扫描显微术或共焦拉曼光谱进行。
5.根据权利要求1至4中任一项所述的方法,其中所述人体皮肤等效物是人造皮肤、供体皮肤、活体皮肤等效物或猪皮。
6.根据权利要求5所述的方法,其中所述人造皮肤是模拟人体皮肤的基于聚合物的基底。
7.根据权利要求1至6中任一项所述的方法,其中所述模型微细颗粒物质包括合成聚合物材料、天然聚合物材料、水不溶性盐、矿物质、金属、合金、玻璃或其混合物。
8.根据权利要求7所述的方法,其中所述合成聚合物材料是聚酰胺、聚乙酸酯、聚酯、聚丙烯酸酯、聚苯乙烯、聚乙烯、聚丙烯、人造丝、聚氯乙烯或其混合物。
9.根据权利要求4至8中任一项所述的方法,其中指示所述模型颗粒物质的所述量的沿着所述Z轴的图像以0.1至10μm的间隔收集以生成多个图像栈。
10.根据权利要求9所述的方法,其中每个所述栈的厚度为5至8μm。
11.根据权利要求9或10所述的方法,其中所述图像通过图像分析软件进行分析以确定在每个相继间隔处所述模型污染物的颗粒的数量,其中在每个相继间隔处所述颗粒的数量指示其在每个所述间隔处的量。
12.根据权利要求1至11中任一项所述的方法,其中所述功效以所述预定时间段结束时所述层内的所述模型微细颗粒物质相比于所述时间段开始时其总量的百分比来测量。
13.根据权利要求12所述的方法,其中如果所述百分比低于30%,则认为组合物是有效的。
14.根据权利要求1至13中任一项所述的方法,其中所述模型微细颗粒物质为包含聚苯乙烯和荧光材料的珠的形式。
15.一种证明化妆品组合物或其中包含的活性成分抑制大气污染物接触皮肤的功效的方法,包括以下步骤:
(i)使人体皮肤等效物与化妆品组合物接触以在干燥后形成沿相互垂直的X、Y和Z轴延伸的所述化妆品组合物的层,其中所述层沿所述Z轴为1至100μm,其中所述Z轴表示所述层的厚度;
(ii)在所述层上沉积已知量的包含响应于深度剖面分析的第一物质的模型微细颗粒物质,其中所述化妆品组合物包含未包含在所述模型微细颗粒物质中但也响应于所述深度剖面分析的第二物质,其中所述第一和第二物质的所述响应是可区分的;
(iii)在沉积所述模型微细颗粒物质后的预定时间段内,通过所述深度剖面分析定期测量所述第一和所述第二物质的响应,从而确定所述模型微细颗粒物质在沿所述Z轴的规定间隔处的量;和
(iv)基于在整个所述预定时间段内在沿着所述Z轴的所述规定间隔处所述模型微细颗粒物质的量确定并由此证明所述功效。
Applications Claiming Priority (5)
Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
---|---|---|---|
CNPCT/CN2018/087260 | 2018-05-17 | ||
CN2018087260 | 2018-05-17 | ||
EP18181178 | 2018-07-02 | ||
EP18181178.7 | 2018-07-02 | ||
PCT/EP2019/061192 WO2019219392A1 (en) | 2018-05-17 | 2019-05-02 | Evaluating the efficacy of leave-on cosmetic compositions to protect from pollutants |
Publications (1)
Publication Number | Publication Date |
---|---|
CN112119307A true CN112119307A (zh) | 2020-12-22 |
Family
ID=66334509
Family Applications (1)
Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
---|---|---|---|
CN201980032742.3A Pending CN112119307A (zh) | 2018-05-17 | 2019-05-02 | 评价免洗型化妆品组合物对污染物的防护功效 |
Country Status (5)
Country | Link |
---|---|
US (1) | US20210263016A1 (zh) |
EP (1) | EP3775885A1 (zh) |
CN (1) | CN112119307A (zh) |
MX (1) | MX2020012222A (zh) |
WO (1) | WO2019219392A1 (zh) |
Cited By (1)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
CN114295522A (zh) * | 2021-12-28 | 2022-04-08 | 华东理工大学 | 基于振动光谱成像的渗透深度及空间浓度分布的分析方法 |
Families Citing this family (1)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
CN113155800B (zh) * | 2021-05-04 | 2023-11-07 | 浙江师范大学 | 激光共聚焦显影观测定量葡萄籽物料中油脂的方法 |
Citations (6)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
US20020071820A1 (en) * | 2000-06-08 | 2002-06-13 | L'oreal | Use of cubic gel particles as an anti-pollution agent, in particular in a cosmetic composition |
EP1434052A1 (fr) * | 2002-12-20 | 2004-06-30 | L'oreal | Procédé d'évaluation de l'activité cosmétique ou dermatologique d'un produit en utilisant un matériel végétal |
US20040185430A1 (en) * | 2002-12-20 | 2004-09-23 | Marc Andre Lefebvre | Process for evaluating the cosmetic or dermatological activity of a product and use of plant material |
US20050191709A1 (en) * | 2004-02-26 | 2005-09-01 | The Procter & Gamble Company | Methods for determining the relative benefits and/or evaluating quantitative changes of products on epithelial tissue |
DE102011082759A1 (de) * | 2011-09-15 | 2012-07-26 | Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa | Verfahren zur individualisierten Hautbehandlung |
US20150177221A1 (en) * | 2013-12-19 | 2015-06-25 | L'oreal | Simulated contaminated skin formulation |
Family Cites Families (7)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
AU4994293A (en) * | 1992-07-27 | 1994-02-14 | Invitro International | In vitro test for dermal corrosive properties |
DE4340827C1 (de) | 1993-12-01 | 1995-05-04 | Aerochemica Dr Deppe Gmbh | Verfahren und Vorrichtung zur Bestimmung der Wirksamkeit eines Hautschutzmittels |
EP1760440A1 (en) | 2005-08-31 | 2007-03-07 | The Procter and Gamble Company | Confocal raman spectroscopy for dermatological studies |
JP5068555B2 (ja) * | 2007-02-06 | 2012-11-07 | 株式会社 資生堂 | 美容方法の評価方法 |
US20160243023A1 (en) * | 2015-02-19 | 2016-08-25 | Elc Management Llc | Novel Skin Remodeling Strategy |
IL247192A0 (en) | 2016-08-08 | 2016-12-29 | Ahava - Dead Sea Laboratories Ltd | Preparations containing Dead Sea water and polysaccharides and their use as skin protectors |
US20180059007A1 (en) * | 2016-08-31 | 2018-03-01 | L'oreal | Device and method for in vitro evaluation of cleansers |
-
2019
- 2019-05-02 WO PCT/EP2019/061192 patent/WO2019219392A1/en unknown
- 2019-05-02 MX MX2020012222A patent/MX2020012222A/es unknown
- 2019-05-02 CN CN201980032742.3A patent/CN112119307A/zh active Pending
- 2019-05-02 EP EP19720640.2A patent/EP3775885A1/en active Pending
- 2019-05-02 US US17/053,825 patent/US20210263016A1/en active Pending
Patent Citations (6)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
US20020071820A1 (en) * | 2000-06-08 | 2002-06-13 | L'oreal | Use of cubic gel particles as an anti-pollution agent, in particular in a cosmetic composition |
EP1434052A1 (fr) * | 2002-12-20 | 2004-06-30 | L'oreal | Procédé d'évaluation de l'activité cosmétique ou dermatologique d'un produit en utilisant un matériel végétal |
US20040185430A1 (en) * | 2002-12-20 | 2004-09-23 | Marc Andre Lefebvre | Process for evaluating the cosmetic or dermatological activity of a product and use of plant material |
US20050191709A1 (en) * | 2004-02-26 | 2005-09-01 | The Procter & Gamble Company | Methods for determining the relative benefits and/or evaluating quantitative changes of products on epithelial tissue |
DE102011082759A1 (de) * | 2011-09-15 | 2012-07-26 | Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa | Verfahren zur individualisierten Hautbehandlung |
US20150177221A1 (en) * | 2013-12-19 | 2015-06-25 | L'oreal | Simulated contaminated skin formulation |
Cited By (2)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
CN114295522A (zh) * | 2021-12-28 | 2022-04-08 | 华东理工大学 | 基于振动光谱成像的渗透深度及空间浓度分布的分析方法 |
CN114295522B (zh) * | 2021-12-28 | 2024-03-29 | 华东理工大学 | 基于振动光谱成像的渗透深度及空间浓度分布的分析方法 |
Also Published As
Publication number | Publication date |
---|---|
EP3775885A1 (en) | 2021-02-17 |
WO2019219392A1 (en) | 2019-11-21 |
US20210263016A1 (en) | 2021-08-26 |
MX2020012222A (es) | 2021-01-29 |
Similar Documents
Publication | Publication Date | Title |
---|---|---|
JP6154426B2 (ja) | 局所適用される組成物における使用のための酸化防止剤を選択する方法 | |
US11385181B2 (en) | Evaluating the efficacy of leave-on cosmetic compositions to protect skin from pollutants | |
US20240042424A1 (en) | City pollution environment simulation apparatus | |
Hoppel et al. | Topical delivery of acetyl hexapeptide-8 from different emulsions: influence of emulsion composition and internal structure | |
de Souza de Bustamante Monteiro et al. | Evaluation of octyl p-methoxycinnamate included in liposomes and cyclodextrins in anti-solar preparations: preparations, characterizations and in vitro penetration studies | |
RU2605300C2 (ru) | Способ оценки косметических средств | |
US20160279047A1 (en) | Leave-on compositions containing cellulose materials | |
Bonnist et al. | Measuring the penetration of a skin sensitizer and its delivery vehicles simultaneously with confocal Raman spectroscopy | |
CN112119307A (zh) | 评价免洗型化妆品组合物对污染物的防护功效 | |
US20220160607A1 (en) | Anti-aging cosmetic compositions | |
Lu et al. | Comparison of artificial sebum with human and hamster sebum samples | |
JP2005502664A (ja) | 皮膚をひきしめる効果のある化粧組成物 | |
EP1096255A2 (en) | Method for measuring skin absorbability | |
WO2014108758A1 (en) | Nanoparticles dispersion for detection of skin health conditions and a diagnostic kit thereof | |
JP4235014B2 (ja) | 皮膚反応試験パッチとその試験方法 | |
Farooq et al. | Comparative efficacy of two anti‐aging products containing retinyl palmitate in healthy human volunteers | |
Teixeira et al. | Development and characterization of photoprotective formulations containing keratin particles | |
Souto et al. | Ultraviolet A irradiation increases the permeation of fullerenes into human and porcine skin from C60-poly (vinylpyrrolidone) aggregate dispersions | |
Sujani et al. | Evaluation of cosmetics: A review | |
Rieger et al. | Evaluation of barrier creams–introduction and comparison of 3 in vivo methods | |
Iannuccelli et al. | In vivo and in vitro skin permeation of butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane from lipospheres | |
Sohn et al. | Repartition of oil miscible and water soluble UV filters in an applied sunscreen film determined by confocal Raman microspectroscopy | |
WO2019219393A1 (en) | Evaluating the efficacy of leave-on cosmetic compositions to protect from pollutants | |
WO2019219390A1 (en) | Method of evaluating efficacy of cosmetic cleansing compositions | |
JP7410693B2 (ja) | ベースメイク塗膜の解析方法 |
Legal Events
Date | Code | Title | Description |
---|---|---|---|
PB01 | Publication | ||
PB01 | Publication | ||
SE01 | Entry into force of request for substantive examination | ||
SE01 | Entry into force of request for substantive examination | ||
TA01 | Transfer of patent application right | ||
TA01 | Transfer of patent application right |
Effective date of registration: 20210803 Address after: Rotterdam Applicant after: Unilever Intellectual Property Holdings Ltd. Address before: Rotterdam Applicant before: Netherlands Unilever Co.,Ltd. |