CN111676587A - One-piece type functional partition warp knitting elastic fabric - Google Patents

Abstract

The invention discloses a piece type functional partition warp knitting elastic fabric, which comprises a jacquard weave, a ground yarn weave and a variable spandex weave, and is characterized in that the warp knitting elastic fabric does not contain a jacquard weave; the jacquard structure is arranged on the first layer of the front surface of the fabric, and patterns woven by the jacquard structure are exposed on the front surface of the fabric; the ground yarn is arranged below the jacquard weave to form a framework of the fabric; the changed spandex tissue is positioned on the back of the fabric, and the function of the local part of the fabric is divided; the fabric is formed by a single piece and is designed and woven according to the required size of the ready-made clothes; the fabric is divided into a plurality of different functional areas in design, has different elasticity and modulus physical parameters, and meets the requirements on local comfort and functionality when being worn; the patterns of the fabric are coherent, no pattern dislocation is caused after splicing, and the fabric has the effects of lifting buttocks, girdling waist and contracting abdomen after being made into a garment.

Description

One-piece type functional partition warp knitting elastic fabric

Technical Field

The invention relates to the field of textiles, in particular to a warp-knitted elastic fabric.

Background

In textile products, functional design is increasingly focused on to meet the non-conventional requirements of consumers on products, such as wearing comfort, body shaping function, body beautifying function and the like. However, these functions are restricted, and if the comfort is good, the body shaping and beautifying functions are poor; also, perfect body shaping and beauty is achieved at the expense of loss of comfort.

The functional product firstly appears in a weft knitting product of a knitted fabric, through years of development, a relatively perfect design and production flow has been formed, a ready-made clothes production cutting-free one-step formed weft knitting product can be made, and the characteristics of the functional product are that the fabric has local special performance through the design of local positions, the fabric can play a local role, the influence on the whole comfort level is small, in addition, the less splicing or splicing-free is achieved through reducing cutting and even cutting-free, the oppression of seams to a body is eliminated to the maximum extent, the wearing comfort level is improved, the production efficiency of the ready-made clothes production can be improved, and the material cost is reduced.

The warp knitting textile product can not be made into a one-step formed product due to the characteristics of the product, but the reduction of the cutting and splicing amount can be theoretically achieved, but the warp knitting product is affected by the aspects of elasticity, size, modulus and the like, so that the design space of the product is severely limited, and in addition, the design needs a very high technical level as support, so that manufacturers which can research the product are particularly few, the reference modes are few, and the product can hardly be seen in the market.

The situation now changes: the first aspect is that the technology has research and development conditions due to the improvement of the technical level, especially the improvement of the variety and the performance of the yarn, the improvement of the weaving technical level, the design concept and the improvement of the skill; secondly, with the improvement of living standard, the market demand in the aspect is stronger, and the market prospect is wider; the third aspect is that as the market competition of common products is more and more intense, the profits are gradually reduced, the related enterprises are forced to shift the product direction, products with higher added values are developed, the research and development of functional products are gradually emphasized, the manpower, material resources and financial resources are centralized, and good conditions are provided for the research and development.

A small number of warp-knitted functional products are available on the market, mainly including the following types:

1. the product with special functions is prepared by using special functional raw materials or an after-finishing technology: such as: the product has one or more of the general effects of resisting bacteria, removing mites, resisting mildew and viruses, preventing mosquitoes, moth, flame, crease and permanent press, resisting water and oil, resisting ultraviolet rays, resisting electromagnetic radiation, fragrance, magnetic therapy, infrared physiotherapy, anion health care and the like.

The body shaping functional product is made of special cutting, special raw materials and special design: such products generally have the function of lifting the hips, corset and centralizing the chest.

The first kind of products is easy to implement, and the second kind of products needs to have strong comprehensive research and development capability to achieve, and is also an important direction for future development.

How to utilize the existing research and development ability of the manufacturer and integrate the existing production technology, and the advanced design, cutting and production technology is absorbed to become the technical attack direction of the manufacturer with the super-thick technical level.

After the design and weaving level is improved, a new product which is more in line with the market can be produced, and after the market is approved, the research and development of new design and weaving are promoted in turn, so that good conditions are provided for the popularization and application of such functional products.

Disclosure of Invention

The invention mainly solves the technical problem of providing a one-piece type functional partition elastic fabric to solve the problems that the functional product is difficult to design in the production of the fabric, has no functional partition, is difficult to realize in the machine weaving and the connection between the fabric and the ready-made clothes, and the like.

In order to solve the technical problems, the invention adopts a technical scheme that: the one-piece type functional partition elastic fabric comprises a jacquard weave, a ground yarn weave and a variable spandex weave, wherein the jacquard weave is arranged on the front surface of the fabric, and woven patterns formed by the jacquard weave are exposed on the front surface of the fabric; the ground yarn is arranged below the jacquard weave to form a framework of the fabric; the changed spandex tissue is positioned on the back of the fabric and plays a role in locally partitioning the function of the fabric; the jacquard structure is formed by weaving two full-through jacquard guide bars, is fixedly connected on a ground yarn structure, and forms various complex pattern patterns through process design; the ground yarn tissue is formed by mutually and cooperatively weaving two ground tissue guide bars which penetrate through a hollow space, a framework of the fabric is formed, the front surface of the ground yarn tissue is covered with a jacquard tissue, and a spandex changing tissue is coated backwards; the change spandex tissue is composed of a front spandex guide bar and a rear spandex guide bar, the front spandex guide bar is fully penetrated, and different needle moving processes are adopted at local positions:

the method specifically comprises the following steps: the conventional spandex knitting process is in one loop of a jacquard height, spandex adopts a small loop yarn laying mode, the chain block number is 0-0/1-1// or 1-1/0-0//, the result is simple, and the function is single; the modified spandex needle-threading process is that in one high cycle of the flower, one part adopts a chain block number of 0-0/1-1// or 1-1/0-0// weft insertion mode, and the other part adopts a looping mode of 0-1/1-0// or 1-0/0-1// to generate different structures, so that different physical properties are achieved.

The back spandex guide bar adopts a local double-threading method:

the method specifically comprises the following steps: the conventional yarn threading method is single full threading, namely, each yarn guide needle hole on a guide bar is threaded with a yarn, and only one yarn is threaded in each yarn guide needle hole; the local double-through is as follows: according to the technological requirements, two yarns are threaded through each yarn guide needle at a specific position of a pattern width cycle according to the requirements. This allows different levels of elastic yarn in specific regions to achieve different physical properties.

The two spandex guide bars act together to ensure that the local area of the fabric has different elasticity and modulus data; the one-piece type functional partition elastic fabric is formed by a single piece, is designed and woven according to the required size of ready-made clothes, and the ready-made clothes with different sizes need corresponding flower width and flower height. When the ready-made clothes are manufactured, functional ready-made clothes can be manufactured only by sewing each piece a little and adding auxiliary materials according to the design; the one-piece functional partition elastic fabric is divided into six different functional areas in each product, has 4 different physical indexes, and meets different local requirements on comfort and functionality when being worn; the one-piece type functional partition elastic fabric has coherent patterns, and no pattern dislocation feeling is generated after splicing; the one-piece type functional partition elastic fabric has the effects of lifting hips, tightening waist and contracting abdomen after being made into a garment.

The invention has the beneficial effects that:

1. the variety of warp knitting products is enriched, and a clear implementation case is provided for the application of functional products on warp knitting products.

Through research and development, a piece of cloth is provided with a plurality of functional areas, and the functional areas are correspondingly designed according to the actual ready-made clothes positions.

The warp knitting product of the invention has no cutting splicing among different functional areas, is in natural transition, and can increase the comfort and the aesthetic degree.

The warp knitting product of the invention can be made into functional ready-made clothes only by cutting, sewing and adding auxiliary materials in a small amount, thereby saving the cost of ready-made clothes factories and increasing the competitiveness of the product.

The warp knitting product is produced and designed according to the size of the garment, so that the production of cutting scraps is reduced, limited resources are saved, and the material cost is reduced.

The warp knitting product adopts special process design and a threading mode, expands the technical space of design and production, and provides a technical basis for the design and production of other products.

Drawings

Fig. 1 is a functional partition structure diagram of the one-piece functional partition elastic fabric of the present invention.

FIG. 2 is a schematic view of the bar arrangement of the one-piece functionally zoned elastic fabric of the present invention.

Fig. 3 is a schematic diagram of the threading and guide needle alignment structure of the one-piece functional partition elastic fabric.

Fig. 4 is a cloth cover positive effect diagram of the one-piece functional partition elastic fabric.

Detailed Description

The present invention will be described in detail below with reference to the accompanying drawings and embodiments.

The one-piece functional partition warp knitting elastic fabric comprises a jacquard weave, a ground yarn weave and a variable spandex weave, and is characterized in that the warp knitting elastic fabric does not contain a jacquard weave; the jacquard structure is arranged on the front surface of the fabric, and patterns woven by the jacquard structure are exposed on the front surface of the fabric; the ground yarn is arranged below the jacquard weave to form a framework of the fabric; the changed spandex tissue is positioned on the back of the fabric, and the function of the local part of the fabric is divided; the jacquard structure is formed by weaving two full-through jacquard guide bars, the jacquard structure is looped on the front side and is wound with ground yarns serving as frameworks, and pattern patterns are formed on the front side of the fabric according to process design. The ground yarn tissue is formed by mutually matching and weaving two ground yarn tissue guide bars which penetrate through a space to form a framework of the fabric, the jacquard tissue is looped on the front side of the fabric and is wound with the framework, and the spandex tissue is wrapped in the fabric on the back side of the fabric; the one-piece type functional partition elastic fabric is formed by a single piece, is designed and woven according to the required size of ready-made clothes, and the ready-made clothes with different sizes need corresponding flower width and flower height. When the ready-made clothes are manufactured, functional ready-made clothes can be manufactured only by sewing each piece a little and adding auxiliary materials according to the design; the one-piece functional partition elastic fabric is divided into 6 different functional areas in each product, has 4 different physical indexes, and meets the local different requirements on comfort and functionality when being worn; the one-piece type functional partition elastic fabric has coherent patterns, and no pattern dislocation feeling is generated after splicing; the one-piece type functional partition elastic fabric has the effects of lifting hips, tightening waist and contracting abdomen after being made into a garment.

The one-piece functional split elastic fabric shown in fig. 1 has a finished size of approximately 950 mm in height and 600 mm in width, which is just a pair of trousers that can be cut out and made into a garment by simple cutting and sewing. The size of the ready-made clothes is small and large, and the size can be adjusted by small intervals; when the sizes are separated greatly, products with different sizes need to be designed for ready-made clothes factories according to the requirements of users. When weaving production, the machine width of production reaches 3000 millimeters, can once only produce 3 endless products in latitudinal direction, and the warp direction can carry out high circulation production infinitely. After the cloth is produced by the warp knitting machine, the cloth is subjected to after-treatment, cut according to requirements and packaged into a finished product for a ready-made clothes factory to use, and the ready-made clothes factory divides the cloth into pieces according to the marks on the high cycle, cuts the cloth and sews the cut cloth into ready-made clothes.

The one-piece functional segmented elastic fabric shown in fig. 1 is divided into 6 regions according to different functions, each region has specific physical properties, and the physical property function design is carried out according to the requirements of ready-made clothes, so that the effect of specialization of functions at specific positions is achieved. When the ready-made clothes are made, the upper part of the area 1 and the lower part of the area 3 are cut and sewn; the sewing thread is arranged on the midline of the buttocks after being cut above the region 4 and below the region 6, thereby reducing the discomfort of the sewing thread to the wearer to the maximum extent and improving the aesthetic degree of the ready-made clothes.

The physical properties of each area and the position relative to the human body are specially designed, and the specific design is as follows: the physical properties of "region 1" and "region 3" are the same, and the physical properties of "region 4" and "region 6" are the same. The 'area 1' and the 'area 3' are positioned at the outer side of thighs and the 'buttocks', do not need a particularly strong shaping function, and in order to ensure the wearing comfort, the general restoring force can be enough, the local elasticity is required to be good, the human body movement cannot be limited, the set elastic modulus is 1290kgf when being stretched at 40%, and the elastic elongation is about 81.4%; "zone 4" and "zone 6" are in the "waist" and "back waist" regions where no substantial fabric elasticity is required, but where some shaping is required to reduce the extra flesh of the "waist" and "back waist" regions, the set elastic modulus at 40% elongation is 1810 kgf and the elastic elongation is around 63.5%; the 'area 2' is positioned in the 'crotch' and the 'inner thigh', the fabric elasticity requirement of the area is not high, but a slightly shaping function is required, the area cannot be too tight, otherwise the comfort is affected, the set elastic modulus is 1710 kgf when being stretched at 40%, and the elastic elongation is about 60.4%; the "region 5" is located in the "abdomen", where the fabric elasticity is required to be low, the body shaping effect is required to be best, the abdomen tightening effect on the falling belly is required, the elastic modulus of the fabric is required to be relatively high, the set elastic modulus is 2240 kgf at 40% elongation, and the elastic elongation is about 51.3%.

At the cutting and sewing joint of the region 1 and the region 3, the pattern design adopts a mode of extending in the same width, the width distribution of the patterns is not changed within a certain height range, the design can better adapt to the cutting requirement, the size requirements of ready-made clothes with different sizes during cutting are met, the pattern patterns can be ensured to be matched and connected on the ready-made clothes, and the aesthetic feeling of the ready-made clothes is improved.

The cutting positions of the regions 1, 2 and 3 adopt beautiful pattern structures, and the cutting positions are positioned at the openings of the trouser legs of the ready-made clothes, are most obvious and can show the aesthetic feeling, and have extremely high design requirements and extremely high weaving and cutting requirements.

In order to achieve the special functions of the areas, the corresponding special production process is adopted:

the warp knitting machine adopted for producing the products comprises the following steps: RSJ5/1EL, machine number 28E.

Fig. 2 is a schematic diagram of a guide bar arrangement structure of a one-piece functional partition elastic fabric, wherein each of L1 and L2 is a jacquard guide bar, a specific looping structure is respectively knitted, 40D/34F light silk raw materials are threaded on guide needles of the jacquard guide bar, the jacquard guide bars are configured according to 14E, and the two jacquard guide bars are combined into a full thread number of 28E. Because the jacquard guide bar is provided with the piezoelectric jacquard needle, the jacquard needle has a jacquard function, pattern patterns can be woven on the surface of the fabric, and the aesthetic feeling of the fabric is improved.

The ground yarn guide bars are 28E, the two ground yarn guide bars are respectively knitted into specific looping structures, and 20D/6F nylon delustering yarn raw materials are threaded on the guide needles of the two rows of ground yarn guide bars in a one-to-one mode. The two ground yarn guide bars are matched to form a ground yarn structure according to a set structure process. Because the used raw materials are thinner, the pattern effect of the jacquard structure can be effectively highlighted.

A spandex bar with a 28E configuration, single full-face 40D spandex, weaving a varying weave architecture with part weaving in laid-in weft configuration and part weaving in open-stitch configuration in one cycle. The variable organization structure can influence the physical performance of the fabric and create conditions for functional partitioning. As shown in the 'area 2' and 'area 5' in fig. 1, the opening loop-forming structure is adopted, and the loop-forming structure has a large difference in yarn amount for spandex compared with the weft-insertion structure, so that the spandex content at a local position is greatly changed, the fabric at the position with large spandex content has large modulus and strong body-shaping function, and the requirements of local physical properties are met.

The method is characterized in that a spandex guide bar is provided, the guide bar is configured as 28E, a weft insertion structure is woven, the whole guide bar is fully penetrated with 280D spandex in a single mode, and in addition, 280D spandex is penetrated in double mode in partial areas of 'area 4', 'area 5' and 'area 6' in figure 1, so that the spandex content is increased in local positions, the fabric recovery performance is enhanced, and the local physical performance requirements are met.

Fig. 2 shows the constructional features on the side of the guide bar arrangement, and fig. 3 shows the threading and alignment of the guide bar guide needles from the front.

In fig. 3, the jacquard bar L1 and jacquard bar L2 are 14E needles, and the first guide needle of the jacquard bar L1 is shifted to the left from the front, compared with the first guide needle of the jacquard bar L2, and the two bars L1 and L2 are combined into a 1-set jacquard system, and the needle tracks of the jacquard bar L1 and jacquard bar L2 are the same. In other application embodiments, the needle tracks of the jacquard guide bar L1 and the jacquard guide bar L2 are the same and different, two jacquard guide yarn supply yarns are controlled by different let-off devices respectively, the requirement of changing jacquard let-off amount of different organizations can be met, similarly, the alignment mode of the first needles of the two jacquard needles can also be changed according to different processes, the situation that the first needles of the two jacquard needles are in the same position can also exist, and the two jacquard needles are in the same position to form 1 jacquard system.

Bar L3 and bar L4 are 28E pins, in this example, bar L3 and bar L4 are both zero-penetration, with 14E being used. Seen from the front of the machine, the corresponding positions of the two guide bars are that the first threading guide needle of the guide bar L3 is deviated from the first threading guide needle of the guide bar L4 by one needle, the threading first guide needle of the guide bar L4 and the first guide needle of the jacquard guide bar L2 are at the same needle position, the two guide needles of the guide bars L3 and L4 are combined into a set of ground yarn system, the needle tracks of the guide bar L3 and the guide bar L4 are different, the closing needle track of the guide bar L3 is (1-0/1-2/1-0/2-3/2-1/2-3 /), and the opening needle track of the guide bar L4 is (3-2/1-2/3-2/0-1/2-1/0-1 /). In other application embodiments, the needle tracks of the guide bar L3 and the guide bar L4 are the same and different, and are determined according to different process requirements and fabric appearance requirements, and the yarn feeding of the two ground yarn guide bars is controlled by different warp feeders respectively, so that the requirement of changing the ground yarn warp feeding amount of different tissues can be met. In other embodiments, the alignment mode and the needle-feeding trajectory of the first two ground yarn guide needles may also vary according to different processes, and there may be a situation where the first two guide bars are in-situ, and the two guide bars are in-situ combined into a set of ground yarn system.

The bar L5 is a 28E row of needles, in this example, the guide bar L5 is fully threaded with 40D spandex, which is knitted with varying needle tracks, in one cycle, partially knitted with laid-in structures (block numbers 0-0/1-1// or 1-1/0-0// laid-in pattern) and partially knitted with open-stitch structure (block numbers 0-1/1-0// or 1-0/0-1// laid-in pattern). The variable needle moving can affect the physical performance of the fabric and create conditions for functional partition. As shown in 'area 2' and 'area 5' in figure 1, an 'open straight chain' structure (a loop forming mode of 0-1/1-0// or 1-0/0-1// is adopted), the loop forming structure needs a yarn amount of spandex which is greatly different from that of a weft insertion structure, so that the spandex content at a local position is greatly changed, the fabric at the position with high spandex content has high modulus and strong body shaping function, and the requirement of local physical performance is met. The first guide needle of the guide bar L5 is in the same needle position as the first threading guide needle of the guide bar L2. In other embodiments, the needle path of the bar L5 may be used to knit a "two needle in-lay" stitch for a first "three needle in-lay" stitch, or may be used to knit an "open straight chain" stitch.

The guide bar L6 is a 28E needle row, in this embodiment, 280D spandex is fully threaded on the guide bar L6 guide needles, and 280D spandex is doubly threaded in the longitudinal direction at the partial positions of "region 4", "region 5" and "region 6", so that the spandex content is increased at the partial positions, the elastic recovery performance is enhanced, the requirement of the local physical performance is met, and the modulus values of "region 4", "region 5" and "region 6" are obviously greater than those of "region 1", "region 2" and "region 3", so that the partial regions have a relatively good body shaping function. The first guide needle of the guide bar L6 and the first threading guide needle of the jacquard guide bar L2 are in the same needle position, so that the situation that a plurality of yarns are not woven into the cloth surface at the position close to the cloth edge can be avoided. In other embodiments, the spandex which is possibly double-threaded is not 280D, and the situation of double-threaded can also not occur, and the spandex needs to be correspondingly designed and configured according to the product requirements.

FIG. 4 is a positive effect diagram of the actual cloth cover of the embodiment, and the jacquard pattern 1 protrudes out of the surface of the fabric to form a three-dimensional relief effect; the 'plain net structure 2' forms a hollowed-out sinking effect. The specific principle is as follows: according to the process design pattern, after the jacquard needles corresponding to the jacquard guide bar L1 and the jacquard guide bar L2 receive special movement commands, an additional needle is transversely moved to locally change yarn tracks, when the jacquard guide bar L1 and the jacquard guide bar L2 are transversely moved integrally left and right according to process chain numbers, according to corresponding matching conditions, the additional needle transversely moved can enable yarns to protrude out of a flat net at a local position under certain conditions to form a convex pattern effect, regular holes can be formed in the flat net under certain conditions to weave a flat net effect, and the two conditions are freely matched at the process design position to form a beautiful fabric appearance effect. Because each needle on L2 can be moved or not moved as commanded by jacquard comb L1, the pattern can be formed anywhere on the entire web without limiting the designer's development.

The product has special functional characteristics, and has the characteristics of compact structure, outstanding patterns, excellent wear resistance, smooth surface, good elastic elongation and elastic restoring force and the like, and the one-piece design is convenient for cutting, reduces cutting waste, improves the utilization rate of cloth, saves raw materials, and is certainly the material of the body-shaping clothes to be preferred, and the development space is very wide.

The above description is only an embodiment of the present invention, and not intended to limit the scope of the present invention, and all modifications of equivalent structures and equivalent processes performed by the present specification and drawings, or directly or indirectly applied to other related technical fields, are included in the scope of the present invention.

Claims (8)

1. A one-piece functional partition warp knitting elastic fabric comprises a jacquard weave, a ground yarn weave and a variable spandex weave, and is characterized in that the warp knitting elastic fabric does not contain a jacquard weave; the jacquard structure is arranged on the first layer of the front surface of the fabric, and patterns woven by the jacquard structure are exposed on the front surface of the fabric; the ground yarn is arranged below the jacquard weave to form a framework of the fabric; the changed spandex texture is positioned on the back of the fabric, and the function of the local part of the fabric is divided.

2. The one-piece functionally zoned elastic fabric according to claim 1, wherein the jacquard weave is woven from two full-length jacquard bars, knitted with ground yarns as a skeleton on the front side of the fabric, and patterned on the front side of the fabric according to a process design.

3. The one-piece functionally zoned elastic fabric according to claim 1, wherein the ground yarn weave is formed by two ground yarn guide bars with one thread and one empty thread, which are cooperatively knitted with each other to form a skeleton of the fabric, and the varying spandex weave is formed on the reverse side of the fabric and is wrapped in the fabric.

4. The one-piece functionally-zoned elastic fabric according to claim 1, wherein the varying spandex texture is woven from a front spandex guide bar and a rear spandex guide bar, the front spandex guide bar is fully threaded by single threading, the needle-feeding process is performed in a looping mode at a local position according to functional requirements, the local position is in a weft-inserting mode, the rear spandex guide bar is threaded by double threading at a local position, the needle-feeding process is in a weft-inserting mode, and the two spandex guide bars work together to provide different elasticity and modulus at the local area of the fabric.

5. The one-piece functionally zoned elastic fabric according to claim 1, wherein the one-piece functionally zoned elastic fabric is designed and woven in a one-piece molding manner according to a desired size of a garment.

6. The one-piece functionally zoned elastic fabric according to claim 1, wherein the one-piece functionally zoned elastic fabric is designed to be divided into 6 different functional zones, having 4 different physical parameters of elasticity and modulus, satisfying locally different requirements for comfort and functionality when worn.

7. The one-piece functionally zoned elastic fabric of claim 1, wherein the fabric has a consistent pattern without a pattern-dislocation feel after splicing.

8. The one-piece functionally zoned elastic fabric according to claim 1, wherein the fabric has hip-up, waist-binding, and abdomen-tightening effects after being made into a garment.

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