CN111648021A

CN111648021A - Lace fabric with multiple variable ground textures and preparation method thereof

Info

Publication number: CN111648021A
Application number: CN202010520136.0A
Authority: CN
Inventors: 罗文华; 陈官峰; 颜进凤
Original assignee: Best Pacific Textile Ltd
Current assignee: Best Pacific Textile Ltd
Priority date: 2020-06-09
Filing date: 2020-06-09
Publication date: 2020-09-11

Abstract

The lace fabric with the multiple changeable ground textures and the preparation method thereof comprise a fabric body, wherein the fabric body is provided with the ground textures, each ground texture comprises a ground texture unit structure, each ground texture unit structure is formed by alternately weaving a looped structure in a pattern circulation mode in an overlapping and separating mode through yarns Y1 and Y2, each ground texture unit structure comprises a plurality of rows of longitudinal ground texture units, each longitudinal ground texture unit comprises a current row of looped structures and other rows of looped structures, and the other rows of looped structures of the longitudinal ground texture units are integrally woven by yarn offset W needle number of the current row of looped structures. The invention keeps the external decoration, improves the heat retention property, and can be widely applied to underwear, corset clothes, sports and leisure clothes.

Description

Lace fabric with multiple variable ground textures and preparation method thereof

Technical Field

The invention belongs to the technical field of garment materials, and particularly relates to a lace fabric with multiple variable ground textures and a preparation method thereof.

Background

With the innovation of textile equipment and the progress of textile technology, lace fabrics are widely applied to the consumer market as fashion fabrics popular to the public, such as underwear, leisure decoration and the like.

In order to achieve the transparent effect, the traditional lace fabric fully utilizes hole elements in design. However, the larger or smaller holes greatly influence the shielding performance of the clothes while adding the sense of performance and aesthetic feeling of the lace fabric;

similarly, the holes can enhance the air permeability of the lace fabric to make the lace fabric comfortable to wear, but the heat retention of the lace fabric is not considered;

moreover, the change of the ground comb structure of the traditional lace fabric is changed along with the structure change of the weft insertion ground comb, is relatively single, and needs to be changed innovatively;

the tendency of conventional lace fabrics to unravel is also a potential risk that they need to face in application. In view of the risk of raveling, the conventional solution is to increase the knitting density and to form transverse locking threads at large length changes with the looping comb, so that the raveling stops at the change point. But the aesthetic appearance of the fabric is greatly affected and the risk of raveling still exists. Another scheme for improving the raveling is to use a thermal fuse yarn, and achieve the purpose of preventing raveling by utilizing the characteristic that the thermal fuse yarn can be melt and bonded after high temperature. However, since the hot melt yarn becomes hard after being melt-bonded at a high temperature, the smoothness and the good elasticity of the fabric are directly affected, and thus the hot melt yarn cannot be widely put into production.

To date, there has been no full description of the patents and other documents associated with lace fabrics in the apparel industry that address the above-mentioned deficiencies and risks, such as:

CN 205062362U describes a warp knitting machine for knitting elastic lace with variable meshes, which comprises a guide bar cradle and a plurality of sets of guide bars. The auxiliary weaving ground weave guide bar is arranged at a required position, so that a mesh effect different from a ground weave process structure is formed, and the stability of the woven mesh effect can be ensured.

CN103469469B describes a geometrical element warp-knitted lace and its preparation method: the geometrical element warp knitting lace is obtained by using two raw materials of chinlon and cation modified polyester yarn and weaving through a lace machine, and after weaving, dyeing and finishing.

CN107287755B describes a knitting method of a multi-bar warp knitting machine: a set of positive warp feeding device is added to feed spandex yarns, and the spandex yarns are fed into a looping ground comb which is the same as or different from non-spandex yarns, so that damaged ground yarn loops and colored yarns are not easy to fall off.

In the above patent, CN 205062362U is designed based on the permeability of the traditional lace and enhances the stability of the effect of the mesh (i.e. holes), and CN103469469B increases the diversity of the lace fabric in terms of color, but they cannot improve the defects of the traditional lace fabric in terms of the shielding property and the heat retention property. The CN107287755B increases the production cost and maintenance cost by increasing the active let-off device, the style and type of the fabric are limited by the fact that the raw material is filament and spandex, and the style and appearance of the fabric are influenced by the curing mode of the filament and spandex in the same direction.

In conclusion, the consumer market needs a new generation lace fabric which can not only keep the advantages of beautiful patterns, strong stereoscopic impression, various patterns, beautiful and transparent appearance and the like of the traditional lace fabric from being influenced fundamentally, but also improve the shielding property, the heat retention property and the detachability of the lace fabric without adding extra cost.

Disclosure of Invention

In order to solve the technical problem, the invention provides a lace fabric with multiple variable ground textures.

In order to solve the technical problems, the invention adopts the following technical scheme:

the utility model provides a lace fabric of polytropic shading, includes the fabric body, and the fabric body has the shading, the shading includes shading unit structure, and shading unit structure is including adopting yarn Y1, yarn Y2 to walk the loop formation structure in a flower type circulation and weave formation in turn with overlapping and detached mode, and shading unit structure includes the vertical shading unit of a plurality of ranks, and vertical shading unit includes that present rank loop formation constructs and other ranks loop formation structures, and other ranks loop formation structures of vertical shading unit are woven by the yarn skew W needle number of present rank loop formation structure an organic whole and are formed.

The shading unit structure also comprises a weft insertion structure layer which is woven by warp guide bars of weft insertion structures through yarns Y3 and Y4.

The shading unit structure is N_Wx N_LIn which N is_LNumber of courses crossed by the yarn during knitting, N_WThe number of offset needles of the yarn during knitting.

When the yarn Y1 is knitted in a straight chain structure, N_W1＝1，N _L11 is ═ 1; when the yarn Y2 is knitted with a variable chaining structure, the yarn Y is not less than 5N_W2Not less than 1, and not less than 12N_L2≥1，N_W1Representing the number of offset needles, N, of yarn Y1_W2Represents the offset needle count of yarn Y2; n is a radical of_L1Representing the number of courses spanned by the stitches of yarn Y1, N_L2Representing the number of courses spanned by yarn Y2 loops.

When the yarn Y1 is woven in a variable chaining structure, the yarn Y is not less than 5N_W1Not less than 1, and not less than 12N_L1Not less than 1; when yarn Y2 is knitted in a straight chain structure, N _W21, and N_L2＝1，N_W1Representing the number of offset needles, N, of yarn Y1_W2Represents the offset needle count of yarn Y2; n is a radical of_L1Representing the number of courses spanned by the stitches of yarn Y1, N_L2Representing the number of courses spanned by yarn Y2 loops.

When the yarn Y1 is woven in a variable chaining structure, the yarn Y is not less than 5N_W1Not less than 1, and not less than 12N_L1Not less than 1; when the yarn Y2 is knitted with a variable chaining structure, the yarn Y is not less than 5N_W2Not less than 1, and not less than 12N_L2≥1，N_W1Representing the number of offset needles, N, of yarn Y1_W2Represents the offset needle count of yarn Y2; n is a radical of_L1Representing the number of courses spanned by the stitches of yarn Y1, N_L2Representing the number of courses spanned by yarn Y2 loops.

The yarn Y1 and the yarn Y2 are both filaments, and the linear density is 10-150D; or both the yarn Y1 and the yarn Y2 are spandex, and the linear density is 20-100D; or the yarn Y1 and the yarn Y2 are both composite yarns consisting of filaments and spandex, and the linear density is 20-150D, wherein the filament linear density is 10-100D, and the spandex linear density is 10-70D.

The yarn Y3 is a filament with the linear density of 20-140D; or the yarn Y3 is spandex elastic yarn with the linear density of 20-280D; or the yarn Y3 is a composite yarn composed of filament and spandex, and has a linear density of 20-150D, wherein the filament linear density is 10-100D, and the spandex linear density is 10-70D.

The yarn Y4 is spandex elastic yarn, and the linear density is 70-560D; alternatively, yarn Y4 is a filament having a linear density of 30-280D.

The ground pattern unit structure of the fabric body is formed by alternately weaving yarns Y1 and Y2 in an overlapping and separating mode in a looping structure in a pattern circulation, and after the current longitudinal looping structure is woven, the yarns Y1 and Y2 are transversely shifted by W needles in the left direction or the right direction to continue weaving to form a node N_Wx N_LIn the weave structure of (1), wherein N_WNumber of needles offset during knitting of the yarn, N_LThe lace fabric with the variable ground stitch is formed by combining and weaving the weft insertion structure with the yarn Y3 and the yarn Y4 and a plurality of pattern yarn guide bars for the number of rows crossed by loops of the yarns in the weaving process.

The invention weaves through the yarn loop-forming structure, and carries out the transverse deviation corresponding needle number to form the loop-forming structure on the diagonal line, thereby forming the weaving structure in the vertical, horizontal and diagonal directions, and realizing different coverage rates by adjusting the deviation of the yarn, thereby adjusting the whole permeability and air permeability, and thus adjusting the permeability of the fabric, changing the air permeability of the holes and improving the heat retention of the fabric.

Drawings

FIG. 1: shading unit N_Wx N_LDiagonal yarn Y in (1) with N_W、N_LThe values of (Ya), (Yb), (Yc) are different and the trend is different;

FIG. 2 is a drawing: the yarn Y1 and the yarn Y2 are layered and threaded;

FIG. 3: the structure of Y1 in the embodiment of the invention is an open-ended pillar structure (0-1/1-0//);

FIG. 4 is a drawing: the structure of Y1 in the embodiment of the invention is an open-ended pillar structure (1-0/0-1//);

FIG. 5: the structure of Y1 in the embodiment of the invention is a closed-end chaining structure (0-1/0-1//);

FIG. 6: the structure of Y1 in the embodiment of the invention is a closed-end chaining structure (1-0/1-0//);

FIG. 7: the structure of Y2 in the embodiment of the invention is an open-ended variable chaining structure (0-1/1-0/0-1/1-2//).

FIG. 8: the structure of Y2 in the embodiment of the invention is an open-ended variable chaining structure (1-0/0-1/1-0/1-2//).

FIG. 9: the structure of Y2 in the embodiment of the invention is a closed-end variable chaining structure (0-1/0-1/0-1/1-2//).

FIG. 10: the structure of Y2 in the embodiment of the invention is a closed-end variable chaining structure (1-0/1-0/1-0/1-2//).

FIG. 11: the structure of Y3 in the embodiment of the invention is a weft insertion structure (0-0/2-2//);

FIG. 12: the structure of Y3 in the embodiment of the invention is a weft insertion structure (2-2/0-0//);

FIG. 13: the structure of Y4 in the embodiment of the invention is a weft insertion structure (0-0/1-1//);

FIG. 14: the structure of Y4 in the embodiment of the invention is a weft insertion structure (1-1/0-0//);

FIG. 15: one of the structural schematic diagrams of the combination of Y1, Y2, Y3 and Y4 in the embodiment of the invention;

FIG. 16: one of the structural schematic diagrams of the combined Y1 and Y2 in the embodiment of the invention.

Detailed Description

For further understanding of the features and technical means of the present invention, as well as the specific objects and functions attained by the present invention, the present invention will be described in further detail with reference to the accompanying drawings and detailed description.

As shown in fig. 1, a lace fabric with multiple changeable ground seams comprises a fabric body, wherein the fabric body is provided with a ground seam, the ground seam comprises a ground seam unit structure, the ground seam unit structure is formed by alternately weaving a loop structure in an overlapping and separating mode through yarns Y1 and Y2 in a pattern circulation, the ground seam unit structure comprises a plurality of rows of longitudinal ground seam units, each longitudinal ground seam unit comprises a current row of loop structures and other rows of loop structures, and the other rows of loop structures of the longitudinal ground seam units are integrally woven by yarn offset W needle number of the current row of loop structures.

During specific preparation, yarns Y1 and Y2 are transversely shifted by W needles to the left or right after being knitted in the current longitudinal looping structure to continue knitting to form a node N_Wx N_LIn the weave structure of (1), wherein N_WNumber of needles offset during knitting of the yarn, N_LThe lace fabric with the variable ground stitch is formed by combining and weaving the weft insertion structure with the yarn Y3 and the yarn Y4 and a plurality of pattern yarn guide bars for the number of rows crossed by loops of the yarns in the weaving process. N is formed by left or right shifting of yarn Y1 and yarn Y2 by a corresponding number of needles_Wx N_LThe knitting structure comprises diagonal elements of yarn deviation, namely, the same yarn is also deviated by corresponding needle number to be knitted when being knitted in a loop structure in the longitudinal direction, different coverage rates of yarn grids can be realized by adjusting the deviated needle number of the yarn, the permeability and the air permeability of the whole unit can be adjusted, and therefore, the permeability of the fabric is adjusted, the air permeability of holes is changed, and the heat retention of the fabric is improved. Diagonal yarns following N_W、N_LThe values of (a) are different, as are the directions of the diagonal yarns that are laterally offset. In fig. 1, each of the transverse compartments is 1 needle, and each of the longitudinal compartments is 1 row.

The ground pattern unit structure further comprises a weft insertion structure layer which is formed by weaving weft insertion structure warp yarn guide bars through yarns Y3 and Y4, a loop forming structure is formed by the yarns Y1 and Y2, and the weft insertion structure formed by the yarns Y3 and Y4 is combined with a plurality of pattern yarn guide bars to form a lace fabric with multiple variable ground patterns.

The yarn Y1 is of a variable chaining structureWhen weaving, 5 is more than or equal to N_W1Not less than 1, and not less than 12N_L1Not less than 1; when yarn Y2 is knitted in a straight chain structure, N _W21, and N_L2＝1，N_W1Representing the number of offset needles, N, of yarn Y1_W2Represents the offset needle count of yarn Y2; n is a radical of_L1Representing the number of courses spanned by the stitches of yarn Y1, N_L2Representing the number of courses spanned by yarn Y2 loops.

For knitting of yarn Y1, different lapping number knitting structures can be adopted, as shown in FIG. 3, yarn Y1 adopts an open chaining structure with a lapping number of 0-1/1-0// for knitting; as shown in FIG. 4, yarn Y1 adopts an open-end chaining structure with the yarn laying number of 1-0/0-1// and the yarn laying number of the open-end chaining structure is two; as shown in the attached figure 5, the yarn Y1 adopts a closed-end chaining structure with the yarn laying number of 0-1/0-1// or; as shown in figure 6, the yarn Y1 adopts a closed-end chaining structure with the yarn laying number of 1-0/1-0// and the yarn laying number of the closed-end chaining structure is equal to or less than one.

For knitting of yarn Y2, different lapping number knitting structures can be adopted, as shown in FIG. 7, yarn Y2 adopts an open-ended variable chaining structure with lapping number of 0-1/1-0/0-1/1-2/; as shown in the attached figure 8, the yarn Y2 adopts an open-ended variable chaining structure with the yarn laying number of 1-0/0-1/1-0/1-2/; as shown in figure 9, the yarn Y2 adopts a closed-end variable chaining structure with the yarn laying number of 0-1/0-1/0-1/1-2/; as shown in the attached figure 10, the yarn Y2 adopts a closed-end variable chaining structure with the yarn-laying number of 1-0/1-0/1-0/1-2// for yarn laying.

Yarn Y3 may be knitted with a lay-in configuration having a lay-in number of 0-0/2-2// as shown in FIG. 11; or as shown in figure 12, the weft insertion structure with the yarn laying number of 2-2/0-0// is adopted for weaving. Yarn Y4 may be knitted with a lay-in configuration having a lay-in number of 0-0/1-1// as shown in FIG. 13; alternatively, yarn Y4 may be knitted with a lay-in configuration having a lay-in number of 1-1/0-0// as shown in FIG. 14.

During specific weaving, a lace machine with the knitting needle density of 28 needles per inch is adopted for weaving, 1, after the weaving machine and the used yarns are reasonably selected according to the process requirements, raw materials are prepared on a pan head by a warping operator according to the process list, wherein the yarns Y1 and Y2 are prepared on the same set of pan head by a layered warping method. If Y1, Y2 are different types of yarns, the tensile modulus of yarns Y1, Y2 must be adjusted and the tension difference controlled within a reasonable range for the layered warping to facilitate loom production.

2. Threading, as shown in fig. 1, yarns Y1 and Y2 after being beamed in layers are provided by the same set of pan heads GB1 in layers, yarn Y1 passes through crossbar 1, then through tension bar 21, then through thread dividing buckle 31, and finally onto guide needle 41 of bar Y1, yarn Y2 passes through crossbar 1, then through tension bar 22, then through thread dividing buckle 32, and finally onto guide needle 42 of bar Y2. And similarly, the yarns on other sets of pan heads are threaded on the guide needles of the corresponding guide bars according to the technical list.

3. And adjusting the tension and starting the machine, hanging the cloth ends after all the yarns are threaded as required, and adjusting the tension of the yarns on each set of the coil heads according to the actual conditions on the machine to ensure that the tension is within a reasonable range. Checking whether other problems need to be processed exist, and starting the machine to weave after all the problems are eliminated.

As shown in fig. 15, the fabric body is composed of a straight chain structure of filament Y1, a variable chain structure of filament Y2, a weft insertion structure of filament Y3, a weft insertion structure of spandex Y4, and is combined and woven with a plurality of pattern guide bars to form the elastic lace fabric with different pattern effects.

As shown in fig. 16, the fabric body is formed by combining and weaving a straight chain structure of filament Y1 and a variable chain structure of filament Y2 with a plurality of pattern yarn guide bars to form the non-elastic lace fabric with different pattern effects.

As shown in fig. 15, the fabric body is composed of a spandex Y1 straight chaining structure, a spandex Y2 variable chaining structure, a filament Y3 weft insertion structure, a spandex Y4 weft insertion structure, and is combined and woven with a plurality of pattern guide bars to form the elastic lace fabric with different pattern effects.

As shown in fig. 16, the fabric body is composed of a straight chain structure of spandex Y1, a variable chain structure of spandex Y2, and a plurality of pattern yarn guide bars, and is combined and woven into the elastic lace fabric with different pattern effects.

As shown in fig. 15, the fabric body is formed by combining and weaving a composite yarn Y1 straight chain structure, a composite yarn Y2 variable chain structure, a filament Y3 weft insertion structure, a spandex Y4 weft insertion structure and a plurality of pattern yarn guide bars to form the elastic lace fabric with different pattern effects.

As shown in fig. 16, the fabric body is formed by weaving a composite yarn Y1 straight chain structure, a composite yarn Y2 variable chain structure and a plurality of pattern yarn guide bars to form the elastic lace fabric with different pattern effects.

In the embodiment of the invention, during the specific knitting production, the following modes are adopted:

1. warping yarns used by the pattern knitting machine:

1) warping of filaments and composite yarns:

the warping machine type: karl Mayer DS 21/30NC-2,

let-off mode: in a negative mode, the silicon nitride layer is formed,

warping temperature: at a temperature of 23 c,

warping humidity: 65 percent of the total weight of the mixture,

and (3) setting warping process parameters in the workshop under the conditions of temperature and humidity, and determining whether to perform oiling treatment on the yarns according to actual conditions.

2) Warping spandex:

the warping machine type: karl Mayer DSE-H21/30NC-2,

let-off mode: the method has the advantages of positive type,

warping temperature: at a temperature of 24 c,

warping humidity: at a rate of 78%,

and setting warping process parameters in the workshop under the conditions of the temperature and the humidity.

2. Weaving:

the machine model is as follows: FJ 83/1B.

Machine number: E24.

3. threading mode and yarn used:

looping guide bar Y1: full through, PA 620D/34F FD FDY,

looping guide bar Y2: full through, PA 620D/34F FD FDY,

weft insertion guide bar Y3: one for each of the through-gaps (jacquard guide bars), PA 640D/68F FD FDY,

weft insertion guide bar Y4: the length of the full penetration, PU 210D,

flower yarn guide bar: selecting and threading yarn according to the pattern requirement.

4. The production process comprises the following steps:

open width water washing → pre-setting → overflow dyeing → rear finishing.

Although the present invention has been described in detail with reference to the embodiments, it will be apparent to those skilled in the art that modifications, equivalents, improvements, and the like can be made in the technical solutions of the foregoing embodiments or in some of the technical features of the foregoing embodiments, but those modifications, equivalents, improvements, and the like are all within the spirit and principle of the present invention.

Claims

1. The utility model provides a lace fabric of polytropic shading, includes the fabric body, and the fabric body has the shading, its characterized in that, the shading includes shading unit structure, and shading unit structure is including adopting yarn Y1, yarn Y2 to walk the loop formation structure in a flower type circulation and weave formation in turn with overlapping and detached mode, and shading unit structure includes the vertical shading unit of a plurality of ranks, and vertical shading unit includes that the loop formation of current rank constructs with other ranks loop formation, and other ranks loop formation of vertical shading unit are formed by the integrative weaving of yarn skew W needle number of the loop formation of current rank.

2. The multiple shade fabric according to claim 1, wherein the shade cell structure further comprises a weft inserted structure layer woven with weft inserted structure warp yarn guide bars using yarn Y3, yarn Y4.

3. The multiple shade-changeable lace fabric according to claim 2, wherein the shade unit structure is N_Wx N_LIn which N is_LNumber of courses crossed by the yarn during knitting, N_WThe number of offset needles of the yarn during knitting.

4. The multiple shade lace fabric of claim 3, wherein yarn Y1 is woven in a straight chain construction, N_W1＝1，N_L11 is ═ 1; when the yarn Y2 is knitted with a variable chaining structure, the yarn Y is not less than 5N_W2Not less than 1, and not less than 12N_L2≥1，N_W1Representing the number of offset needles, N, of yarn Y1_W2Represents the offset needle count of yarn Y2; n is a radical of_L1Representing the number of courses spanned by the stitches of yarn Y1, N_L2Representing the number of courses spanned by yarn Y2 loops.

5. The lace fabric with multiple varied shades according to claim 3, wherein yarn Y1 is knitted with a varied pillar stitch construction of 5 ≧ N_W1Not less than 1, and not less than 12N_L1Not less than 1; when yarn Y2 is knitted in a straight chain structure, N_W21, and N_L2＝1，N_W1Representing the number of offset needles, N, of yarn Y1_W2Represents the offset needle count of yarn Y2; n is a radical of_L1Representing the number of courses spanned by the stitches of yarn Y1, N_L2Representing the number of courses spanned by yarn Y2 loops.

6. The lace fabric with multiple varied shades according to claim 3, wherein yarn Y1 is knitted with a varied pillar stitch construction of 5 ≧ N_W1Not less than 1, and not less than 12N_L1Not less than 1; when the yarn Y2 is knitted with a variable chaining structure, the yarn Y is not less than 5N_W2Not less than 1, and not less than 12N_L2≥1，N_W1Representing the number of offset needles, N, of yarn Y1_W2Represents the offset needle count of yarn Y2; n is a radical of_L1Representing the number of courses spanned by the stitches of yarn Y1, N_L2Representing the number of courses spanned by yarn Y2 loops.

7. The multiple shade lace fabric of any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein yarn Y1, yarn Y2 are both filaments and have a linear density of 10-150D; or both the yarn Y1 and the yarn Y2 are spandex, and the linear density is 20-100D; or the yarn Y1 and the yarn Y2 are both composite yarns consisting of filaments and spandex, and the linear density is 20-150D, wherein the filament linear density is 10-100D, and the spandex linear density is 10-70D.

8. The multiple shade lace fabric of claim 7, wherein the yarn Y3 is a filament having a linear density of 20-140D; or the yarn Y3 is spandex elastic yarn with the linear density of 20-280D; or the yarn Y3 is a composite yarn composed of filament and spandex, and has a linear density of 20-150D, wherein the filament linear density is 10-100D, and the spandex linear density is 10-70D.

9. The multiple shade lace fabric of claim 8, wherein the yarn Y4 is spandex elastic yarn having a linear density of 70-560D; alternatively, yarn Y4 is a filament having a linear density of 30-280D.

10. A method of making a multiple textured lace fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 9 wherein the textured element of the fabric body is provided by yarn Y1, yarn Y2 in a single weave patternThe pattern type loop-in looping structures are alternately woven in an overlapping and separating mode, and the yarns Y1 and Y2 are transversely shifted by W needles in the left direction or the right direction after being woven by the current longitudinal looping structure to continue weaving to form a node N_Wx N_LIn the weave structure of (1), wherein N_WNumber of needles offset during knitting of the yarn, N_LThe lace fabric with the variable ground stitch is formed by combining and weaving the weft insertion structure with the yarn Y3 and the yarn Y4 and a plurality of pattern yarn guide bars for the number of rows crossed by loops of the yarns in the weaving process.