CN111616978A - Application of brassinosteroids as emulsifier in cosmetics - Google Patents
Application of brassinosteroids as emulsifier in cosmetics Download PDFInfo
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
- A61K8/42—Amides
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/31—Hydrocarbons
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/58—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing atoms other than carbon, hydrogen, halogen, oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur or phosphorus
- A61K8/585—Organosilicon compounds
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/92—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/92—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
- A61K8/922—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof of vegetable origin
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
- A61K2800/52—Stabilizers
- A61K2800/524—Preservatives
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Abstract
The invention discloses an application of brassinosteroid amidopropyl dimethylamine serving as an emulsifier in cosmetics. Compared with the prior art, the invention provides the new application of the brassinosteroids propyl dimethylamine in the cosmetics, the emulsification capacity of the brassinosteroids propyl dimethylamine is strong, an emulsifier with a lamellar liquid crystal structure can be prepared, an environment which is not suitable for the growth of microorganisms can be created under the acidic condition, one substance can play at least two roles simultaneously, and in addition, the brassinosteroids propyl dimethylamine is mild, natural, sustainable and biodegradable.
Description
Technical Field
The invention relates to the technical field of cosmetics, in particular to application of brassinosteroids to cosmetics as an emulsifier.
Background
The rape oil amide propyl Dimethylamine Brassicamidopropyl dimethyl amine is derived from rape seed oil, and mainly serves as an excellent hair conditioner to play roles in resisting static electricity, repairing damaged hair, nourishing hair, preventing hair from being frizzy and the like.
For example, the invention patent with patent application number CN201510945249.4 (publication number CN105380831A) discloses a silicone oil-free mild conditioning hair care composition and a preparation method thereof. The hair care composition comprises the following components in percentage by weight: 2-7% of cationic conditioner, 1-4% of emulsifier, 2-10% of higher fatty alcohol, 1-10% of non-silicon oil type grease or grease derivative, 0.1-8% of additive and the balance of water, wherein the cationic conditioner consists of behenyl trimethyl ammonium chloride, brassinoamide propyl dimethylamine, aspartic acid and polyester-11. The hair care composition does not contain silicone oil, avoids the defects that the silicone oil product reduces the conditioning and soft feeling of hair after long-term use, and the hair is dry, forked, broken and has no luster, really plays a role in moistening and protecting the hair, provides moisture-preserving nutrition from the deep part of the hair, obviously improves the problems of wet hair combing property, dry hair combing property, wet hair softness and dry hair softness, and obviously improves the toughness, elasticity and luster of the hair.
There is no data showing other effects that it can play in cosmetics.
Disclosure of Invention
The invention aims to solve the technical problem of providing a new application of brassinosteroids to cosmetics aiming at the current situation of the prior art.
The technical scheme adopted by the invention for solving the technical problems is as follows: the application of rape oil amide propyl dimethylamine in cosmetics as emulsifier.
Preferably, the emulsifier is a product capable of emulsifying the grease.
Further, the oil is at least one of triglyceride triheptene, a mixture of silicone oil cyclopentadimethylsiloxane and cyclohexasiloxane, wax ester jojoba oil, hydrocarbon oil mineral oil, squalane and neopentyl glycol diheptanoate with branched chain esters.
Further, the mass fraction of the brassinoamide propyl dimethylamine in the cosmetic is recorded as a, the mass fraction of the oil and fat in the cosmetic in which the brassinoamide propyl dimethylamine can be emulsified is recorded as b, and the value of b/a is 20-25.
Preferably, the cosmetic is acidic, and the rape oil amide propyl dimethylamine can create an environment which is not suitable for the growth of microorganisms. The nitrogen on the rape oil amide propyl dimethylamine tertiary amine has lone pair electrons and reacts with H under the acidic condition+Binding (protonation) is positively charged, and the compound is cationic. Is adsorbed on microbial cell membrane (with negative charge) by electrostatic interaction and hydrophobic interaction, changes permeability of cell membrane and osmotic pressure of cell, causes cell content to flow out, and simultaneously combines with intracellular enzyme and protein to denature enzyme and protein, destroys cell metabolism, thereby inhibiting growth and reproduction of microorganism.
Further, the microorganism is at least one of staphylococcus aureus ATCC6538, escherichia coli ATCC8739, pseudomonas aeruginosa ATCC9027, enterobacter interdonae ATCC33028, candida albicans ATCC10231 and aspergillus niger ATCC 16404.
Further, the mass fraction of the brassinosteroids in the cosmetic is recorded as a, and the value of the a is 1-2 wt%.
Further, the pH value of the cosmetic is 4-6.
Compared with the prior art, the invention has the advantages that: the invention provides a new application of brassinosteroids in cosmetics, which has strong emulsifying capacity, can prepare an emulsified body with a lamellar liquid crystal structure, can create an environment unsuitable for the growth of microorganisms under an acidic condition, can play at least two roles simultaneously by one substance, and is mild, natural, sustainable and biodegradable.
Drawings
FIG. 1 is a view showing a polarizing microscope (100X) observation of an emulsion prepared in example B of the present invention;
FIG. 2 is a graph showing the biodegradation rate of oleyl amidopropyl dimethylamine with time in example H of the present invention;
Detailed Description
The invention is described in further detail below with reference to the accompanying examples.
Examples A1 to A5:
examples A1 to A5: preparing emulsion with the viscosity of about 5000cP, observing how many parts of oil and fat can be emulsified by 1 wt% of brassinooleamide propyl dimethylamine by changing the adding amount of the oil and fat (taking triheptene as an example), wherein the formulas of the examples A1-A5 are detailed in Table 1;
examples A6 to A11: preparing emulsions with the viscosity of about 5000cP, and observing the emulsifying capacity of the brassinosteroids to different types of grease by selecting different types of grease, wherein the formulas of the examples A6-A11 are detailed in the table 2;
the uniformity degree of the emulsified particle size of the emulsified body is observed by a microscope, and whether the layering phenomenon exists or not is observed after the emulsified body is centrifuged at 3000rpm for 30 min:
(1) the emulsions of examples A1 and A2 were homogeneous after centrifugation and showed no delamination, and had a uniform particle size distribution when observed under a microscope; the emulsion of example A3 showed a fine separation at the bottom after centrifugation, and the emulsions of examples A4 and A5 showed a clear separation; the result shows that 1 wt% of rape oil amidopropyl dimethylamine can emulsify 25 wt% of polar oil triheptanoin, and shows very strong emulsifying capacity;
(2) the emulsions of examples A6-A11 were not delaminated after centrifugation, and had uniform particle size and uniform particle size distribution when observed under a microscope; the results show that after the rape oil amide propyl dimethylamine is neutralized, various types of oil such as triglyceride triheptene, silicone oil cyclopentadimethylsiloxane and cyclohexasiloxane, wax ester jojoba oil, hydrocarbon oil mineral oil, squalane, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate with branched chain ester and the like can be emulsified.
Example B:
1.5 wt% of rape oil amide propyl dimethylamine is added into the formula 669-058B as an emulsifier, and the prepared emulsion is observed by a polarization microscope (100X);
the formula and the test results of the example B are detailed in the table 3 and the figure 1, and it can be seen from the figure that the emulsion 669-058B has a lamellar liquid crystal structure, which shows that the rapeseed oil amide propyl dimethylamine can be used as a liquid crystal emulsifier to prepare the emulsion with the lamellar liquid crystal structure, so that the formula has dry and smooth skin feel, is smooth to apply and is very close to the skin, and simultaneously provides strong moisturizing and moistening effects.
Example C:
the minimum inhibitory concentration of rape oil amidopropyl dimethylamine after glutamic acid neutralization was determined according to the minimum inhibitory concentration determination test (agar dilution) of 2.1.8.3 in the technical Specification for Disinfection (2002 edition), and the test microorganisms were Staphylococcus aureus ATCC6538, Escherichia coli ATCC8739, Pseudomonas aeruginosa ATCC9027, Enterobacter intergous ATCC33028, Candida albicans ATCC10231 and Aspergillus niger ATCC 16404.
The method comprises the following specific steps: a4% aqueous solution of canola oleamidopropyl dimethylamine (neutralized to a different pH with appropriate amounts of glutamic acid) was prepared in an aseptic procedure. Then diluting the solution with sterile water into test solutions with different concentrations, and placing the test solutions in a water bath at the temperature of 45-50 ℃ for standby at constant temperature. 10mL of serially diluted antimicrobial solution was added to each plate. 10mL of a double medium (MH agar for bacteria and Sabouraud's dextrose agar medium for fungi) in a water bath at 45 ℃ to 50 ℃ was added to the plate, and the plate was shaken while adding the medium, and mixed well. After the plate is solidified, 1 to 2 mu L (the bacterial content is about 10) is taken7cfu/mL, the fungus content is about 106cfu/mL) of the bacterial suspension is spotted on a plate containing a bacteriostatic solution culture medium, and the diameter of a bacterial liquid ring formed after inoculation is about 5 mm-8 mm. Culture medium plates without bacteriostatic components were inoculated in the same manner as positive controls. And (3) placing the plate inoculated with the bacteria in an incubator at 36 +/-1 ℃, carrying out inverted culture for 18-24 h, and observing the result. And (3) placing the plate inoculated with the fungus in an incubator at 28 +/-1 ℃, culturing for 3-5d, and observing the result. Minimum bacteriostatic liquid for completely inhibiting bacterial colony growthThe concentration is the minimum inhibitory concentration MIC of the sample to the tested bacteria. Single colonies grew negligibly.
The results of the tests of example C are detailed in Table 4, from which it can be seen that neutralisation of rape oil amidopropyl dimethylamine creates an environment unsuitable for microbial growth, and that the lower the pH, the less favourable the microbial growth.
Example D:
1 wt% of oleyl amidopropyl dimethylamine is added into the cationic emulsion mask 654-142C, and a preservative challenge test is carried out according to a method of a microorganism preservative efficacy test of the United states pharmacopoeia USP32 (51). The test microorganisms were Staphylococcus aureus ATCC6538, Escherichia coli ATCC8739, Pseudomonas aeruginosa ATCC9027, Enterobacter interrogans ATCC33028, Candida albicans ATCC10231, Aspergillus niger ATCC 16404. The enterobacter Riviensis is a common pollution bacterium in daily chemical product factories in south China and has certain drug resistance, so the microorganism is specially added for testing in the experiment. The concentration of the bacterial suspension is respectively adjusted to 108cfu/mL, wherein staphylococcus aureus, escherichia coli and pseudomonas aeruginosa are uniformly mixed into mixed bacteria in equal amount. The concentrations of the mold and yeast suspension were adjusted to 107cfu/mL, and uniformly mixing the mold and the yeast in equal amount to obtain the mixed fungus. Taking 3 samples to be detected, wherein each sample is 50g, respectively adding 0.5mL of mixed bacteria, Enterobacter intergous and mixed fungi into the 3 samples to ensure that the inoculation concentration of each bacterium in the samples is 106cfu/g, fungal 105cfu/g. And fully stirring and uniformly mixing the sample inoculated with the bacterial liquid by using a stirring rod. The mixed sample is placed at 22.5 +/-2.5 ℃. The microbial content was determined at 0h, 2d, 7d, 14d, 21d, 28d samples after inoculation and the log reduction of colony counts was calculated.
The formulation and test results of example D are detailed in tables 5 and 6, from which it can be seen that ｃA cationic emulsion mask containing 1 wt% of rape oleamidopropyl dimethylamine can pass the EP-A test standards, creating an environment unsuitable for microbial growth.
Example E:
to the emulsified cream was added 2 wt% of oleylamidopropyldimethylamine, and the preservation challenge test was performed according to the method of the USP32(51) microbial preservation efficacy test.
Comparative example E:
the preservative challenge test was performed according to the method of the USP32(51) microbial preservative efficacy test with the addition of 5 wt% of the non-ionic emulsifier glyceryl stearate & PEG-100 stearate to the emulsified cream.
The formulations and test results for example E and comparative example E are detailed in tables 7 and 8, from which it can be seen that:
(1) the nonionic emulsifiers glyceryl stearate & PEG-100 stearate and rape oil amide propyl dimethylamine can play an emulsifying role;
(2) compared with glyceryl stearate and PEG-100 stearate, the brassinoamide propyl dimethylamine is more adverse to the growth of mixed bacteria (staphylococcus aureus, escherichia coli and pseudomonas aeruginosa), enterobacter daily sulcus, mold and yeast, and creates an environment unsuitable for the growth of microorganisms;
in addition, compared with the emulsion cream 654-079K with the nonionic emulsifier glyceryl stearate & PEG-100 stearate, the emulsion cream 654-079D containing 2 wt% of rape oil amidopropyl dimethylamine feels smoother and more smooth to the skin, absorbs more quickly, and leaves a soft touch to the skin while providing a strong moisturizing effect.
Example F:
carrying out an in-vitro eye irritation test, namely a chick embryo chorioallantoic membrane test (HET-CAM method) SN/T2329-2009 (understanding the eye irritation of a test sample) on rape oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, wherein the test result shows that the ES score of the sample is 6, which indicates that the rape oleamidopropyl dimethylamine has no or slight irritation;
the skin irritation of brassinoamide propyldimethylamine was studied according to skin irritation test OECD 439 and the results showed that the skin tissue viability using brassinoamide propyldimethylamine was 95.97%, indicating that brassinoamide propyldimethylamine is not skin irritating.
Example G:
the natural source index of rape oleamidopropyl dimethylamine calculated according to ISO 16128 standard is 0.80, and the bio-based content (natural content) of rape oleamidopropyl dimethylamine measured according to the american ministry of agriculture biology priority (USDA bioperferenred) plan using ASTM D6866 method is 83%, indicating that rape oleamidopropyl dimethylamine is naturally sustainable.
Example H:
performing biodegradation test on rape oleamide propyl dimethylamine according to OECD 301B;
the time-dependent change of the biodegradation rate of brassinoamide propyldimethylamine is shown in fig. 2, and it can be seen that the biodegradation rate of brassinoamide propyldimethylamine reaches 63% in 11 days and 90% in 28 days, which indicates that the brassinoamide propyldimethylamine is very easy to biodegrade.
Note: the rape oleamide propyl dimethylamine is from England chemical company of America and is sold under the trade name ProConditionTM22。
TABLE 1 formulations of examples A1-A5
TABLE 2 formulations of examples A6-A11
Table 3 formulation of example B
Table 4 test results for example C
TABLE 5 formulation of example D
TABLE 6 test results for example D
TABLE 7 formulations of example E and comparative example E
TABLE 8 test results of example E and comparative example E
Claims (8)
1. The application of rape oil amide propyl dimethylamine in cosmetics as emulsifier.
2. Use according to claim 1, characterized in that: the emulsifier is a product capable of emulsifying the grease.
3. Use according to claim 2, characterized in that: the oil is at least one of triglyceride triheptene, mixture of silicone oil cyclopentadidimethyl siloxane and cyclohexasiloxane, wax ester jojoba oil, hydrocarbon oil mineral oil, squalane, and branched chain ester neopentyl glycol diheptanoate.
4. Use according to claim 2, characterized in that: the mass fraction of the brassinosteroids in the cosmetic is recorded as a, the mass fraction of the oil and fat in the cosmetic in which the brassinosteroids can be emulsified is recorded as b, and the value of b/a is 20-25.
5. Use according to claim 1, characterized in that: the cosmetic is acidic, and the rape oil amide propyl dimethylamine can create an environment which is not suitable for the growth of microorganisms.
6. Use according to claim 5, characterized in that: the microorganism is at least one of staphylococcus aureus ATCC6538, escherichia coli ATCC8739, pseudomonas aeruginosa ATCC9027, enterobacter interdonae ATCC33028, candida albicans ATCC10231 and aspergillus niger ATCC 16404.
7. Use according to claim 5, characterized in that: the mass fraction of the brassinosteroids in the cosmetic is recorded as a, and the value of the a is 1-2 wt%.
8. Use according to claim 5, characterized in that: the pH value of the cosmetic is 4-6.
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Cited By (2)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
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| CN113016821A (en) * | 2021-03-12 | 2021-06-25 | 广东药科大学 | Antibacterial nano liquid drop and application thereof |
| CN117100729A (en) * | 2023-10-18 | 2023-11-24 | 露乐健康科技股份有限公司 | Private part antibacterial composition, private part nursing product, and preparation methods and applications thereof |
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| CN117100729A (en) * | 2023-10-18 | 2023-11-24 | 露乐健康科技股份有限公司 | Private part antibacterial composition, private part nursing product, and preparation methods and applications thereof |
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