CN111529450A - 深层补水修复组合物，其护肤品及制备方法 - Google Patents
深层补水修复组合物，其护肤品及制备方法 Download PDFInfo
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Abstract
本发明涉及一种深层补水修复组合物，其护肤品及制备方法，所述深层补水修复组合物的原料组分包括：积雪草根提取物4‑6重量份、紫草根提取物0.1‑0.2重量份、薄荷叶提取物1‑2重量份、金黄洋甘菊提取物1‑2重量份、马齿苋提取物1‑2重量份、苦参根提取物1‑2重量份、库拉索芦荟提取物1‑2重量份、香叶天竺葵提取物1‑2重量份、仿生类保湿剂6.01‑6.03重量份、溶剂10‑16重量份、非仿生类保湿剂12‑16重量份。本发明所述的深层补水修复组合物，通过将植物提取成分与仿生类保湿剂进行复配，最终形成的组合物，具有较好的补水保湿、退红舒敏、镇定以及修复受损肌肤的作用，且易于添加于护肤品中，能轻松制备出外观漂亮的护肤品，安全温和无刺激。
Description
技术领域
本发明属于化妆品技术领域，具体涉及一种深层补水修复组合物，其护肤品及制备方法。
背景技术
随着年龄的增长，皮肤含水率逐渐下降，这直接导致了肌肤干燥、发黄、粗糙、松弛以及皱纹早生的现象。因此，补水保湿，提高肌肤含水量是抗衰的关键，也是使得其它一切功能宣称的护肤品真正发挥作用的基础。
CN111000763A公开了一种植物保湿组合物及其制备方法和应用，所述植物保湿组合物包括如下质量份数的组分：高分子量银耳子实体提取物0.1～5份，低分子量银耳子实体提取物0.1～5份，海星支管藻提取物5～30份，美丽伊谷草提取物5～30份，库拉索芦荟提取物0.1～15份，其中高分子量银耳子实体提取物分子量为100～500万道尔顿的银耳子实体提取物；低分子量银耳子实体提取物分子量为1～5万道尔顿的银耳子实体提取物。
CN110974775A公开了一种含葛仙米的舒敏组合物及其制备方法和应用，所述含葛仙米舒敏组合物包括藻类提取物和中草药复合提取物。所述组合物包含以下干燥重量份数原料组成：葛仙米5-20份、积雪草1-10份、胀果甘草3-15份、黄芩3-15份、花椒果1-8份、马齿苋5-20份。
从以上公开的技术可以看出，现有的护肤品大都仅仅具有保湿或修复中的一种功能，且在补水保湿以及修复受损肌肤效果方面有待进一步提高。
发明内容
本发明的目的在于提供一种深层补水修复组合物，其护肤品及制备方法，所述深层补水修复组合物原料天然，易于添加在现有护肤品中，以提供卓越的补水保湿以及修复功效。
本发明的技术方案为：
一种深层补水修复组合物，原料组分包括：积雪草根提取物4-6重量份、紫草根提取物0.1-0.2重量份、薄荷叶提取物1-2重量份、金黄洋甘菊提取物1-2重量份、马齿苋提取物1-2重量份、苦参根提取物1-2重量份、库拉索芦荟提取物1-2重量份、香叶天竺葵提取物1-2重量份、仿生类保湿剂6.01-6.03重量份、溶剂10-16重量份、非仿生类保湿剂12-16重量份。
积雪草根提取物，含有多种三萜类，其中包含α-香树脂醇结构。主要成分为积雪草甙，羟基积雪草甙，可以紧致表皮与真皮连接部分，帮助促进真皮层中胶原蛋白形成，使纤维蛋白再生，还可帮助受损的组织愈合及紧实肌肤，使肌肤柔软、紧致。
紫草根提取物，有抗皮肤真菌病毒作用，结合它的抗炎性，皮肤科临床用于治疗扁平疣、银屑病、皮炎、湿疹等；紫草提取物对组织蛋白酶活性有促进作用，提示该提取物可增强皮肤细胞的新陈代谢，结合其抗氧性，有抗衰作用。
薄荷叶提取物，具有刺激中枢神经的功效，作用于皮肤有灼感和冷感。同时，它对感觉神经末梢又有抑制和***作用；因此，可用作抗刺激剂和皮肤***，即对皮肤瘙痒具有抗过敏和止痒作用。
金黄洋甘菊提取物，内含多种黄酮、咖啡酸、糖类、氨基酸等营养成分，具有优异的抗炎消炎、止痛消肿、促进伤口愈合、抗菌止痒、加速溃疡愈合、促进细胞再生、肌肤新陈代谢等优异的药学药理作用。
马齿苋提取物，含有多种具有生理活性的化合物，如氨基酸、多糖、维生素、黄酮、皂苷、生物碱等，具有止痛消炎、抑菌和帮助伤口愈合等作用。具有“天然抗生素”之称，对痢疾杆菌、伤寒杆菌和大肠杆菌有较强的抑制作用，富含蛋白质、维生素、氨基酸、生物碱以及多种微量元素等营养成分，对于祛痘消痕、平滑肌肤具有显著的功效。
苦参根提取物，含生物碱苦参碱、氧化苦参碱。氧化苦参碱具有抗过敏、抗炎作用，能调节免疫和升高白细胞，能够清除下焦湿热，并且杀虫止痒，对皮肤瘙痒有很好的缓解作用。
库拉索芦荟提取物，富含多种有益成分，例如芦荟甙，可作为皮肤的防晒剂，抵御日光侵害；芦荟酊，具有极强的抗菌性，能杀灭多种病菌；其它所含成份如各种糖类、氨基酸、活性酶、芦荟大黄素及小分子营养物质等，均对人体皮肤有极好的滋养作用，可以加速皮肤新陈代谢，增强皮肤弹性，使之显得柔软、光滑、丰满，还可以消除粉刺、雀斑、皲裂，且刺激性少，用后舒适。
香叶天竺葵提取物，其内含的有效成分与天然有机脂具有很强的亲和性，使其大部分营养物质能被肌肤吸收。天竺葵中还含有香茅醇、柠檬醛、薄荷酮和多种微量矿物元素等营养成分，具有止痛、收敛抗菌、增强细胞防御功能等功能，能够深层洁肤，平衡皮脂分泌，促进皮肤细胞新生，修复疤痕。除此之外，它还具有强效的抗氧化、清除自由基功效。
本发明所述的仿生类保湿剂，是指与人体皮肤亲和度高，本身存在于皮肤角质层细胞内，或与其在结构及功能上具有高度相似性，能提高肌肤吸水、锁水能力，以模拟角质细胞内的天然保湿因子(NMF)功效的一类物质。所述仿生类保湿剂优选自透明质酸钠、胶原蛋白、胶原多肽、胶原低聚肽、氨基酸、乳酸盐、尿素、吡咯烷酮羧酸钠、尿囊素、神经酰胺中的任意一种或几种。更优选的，所述仿生类保湿剂为透明质酸钠和胶原低聚肽的混合物。透明质酸钠本身是人体皮肤的构成之一，是人体内分布最广的一种酸性黏糖，存在于***的基质中，具有良好的保湿作用。胶原低聚肽与大分子的胶原蛋白相比，能够被皮肤更好的吸收，其不仅可以在表皮形成保湿膜，赋予角质层中的角质细胞亲水性，还可以渗透到真皮层，实现从表皮到真皮的立体保湿效果，起到深层补水保湿，使皮肤柔软有弹性。更优选的，所述仿生类保湿剂为透明质酸钠和胶原低聚肽按重量比0.01-0.03:5-7组成的混合物。所述胶原低聚肽优选为寡肽-1、寡肽-2、寡肽-3、寡肽-5按重量比1-2:1-2:1-2:1-2组成的混合物。
本发明通过将植物提取成分与仿生类保湿剂进行复配，极大地改善了单独采用植物提取成分见效较慢，效果不明显以及效果持续性较差的问题。且本发明组合物原料天然安全，符合绿色天然化妆品的现代护肤诉求，易于添加在各种类型的护肤品中，以提供卓越的保湿以及修复功效。
本发明所述积雪草根提取物优选为羟基积雪草苷含量>12wt％的积雪草根提取物，所述紫草根提取物优选为水溶性紫草素含量≥0.5wt％的紫草根提取物。通过对以上两种原料中代表性功效成分的含量进行控制，能够极大的保证组合物的实际使用功效，进而保证本发明在补水保湿以及修复受损肌肤方面的效果。
本发明所述溶剂优选为多元醇类，具体可以是甘油、丙二醇、丁二醇、戊二醇中的任意一种或几种的混合物，所述非仿生类保湿剂优选为甜菜碱、甘油聚醚-26的混合物。
一种制备前面所述深层补水修复组合物的方法，包括如下步骤：
(1)将溶剂、非仿生类保湿剂、透明质酸钠混合后加热至80-85℃使溶解完全，得到溶液1；
(2)将溶液1降温至50-55℃，然后加入积雪草根提取物，搅拌均匀，得到溶液2；
(3)将溶液2降温至40-45℃，然后加入剩余各原料，搅拌均匀，即得。
本发明所述深层补水修复组合物的基础上，通过添加化妆品辅料基质，按照化妆品常规工艺可制成常规形式的护肤品。所述化妆品辅料基质包括但不限于1、保湿剂，例如甘油、丙二醇、丁二醇等；2、增稠剂，例如硬脂酸、月桂醇、黄原胶、卡波姆、羧甲基纤维素、羟乙基纤维素等；3、乳化剂，例如鲸蜡硬脂基葡糖苷、PEG-100硬脂酸酯、吐温类等；4、润肤剂，例如辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯、碳酸二辛酯、角鲨烷、生育酚乙酸酯、环五聚二甲基硅氧烷、辛基聚甲基硅氧烷、异十二烷、聚二甲基硅氧烷等，5、防腐剂，例如尼泊金类、山梨酸类、苯氧乙醇、苯甲醇、苯甲酸钠等；6、抗氧剂，例如维生素E、BHT等；7、香精；8、颜料。将本发明所述深层补水修复组合物用于制备护肤品时，各化妆品辅料基质的具体添加量可为化妆品技术领域的常规用量，所述常规形式的护肤品包括具有相对的流动性并且其外观可以是水剂、膏霜、乳液、洗液、面膜中的任意一种。所述深层补水修复组合物在护肤品中的添加量为1-5wt％。
本发明的有益效果为：
1、本发明所述的深层补水修复组合物，添加了包括积雪草根提取物、紫草根提取物、薄荷叶提取物、金黄洋甘菊提取物、马齿苋提取物、苦参根提取物、库拉索芦荟提取物以及香叶天竺葵提取物在内的8种植物提取物，通过将其与仿生类保湿剂进行复配，最终形成的组合物，具有较好的补水保湿、退红舒敏、镇定以及修复受损肌肤的作用。
2、本发明组合物适用产品广，易于添加在多种形式的护肤品中，能轻松制备出外观漂亮的护肤品。
3、本发明组合物质地清爽不黏腻，成分安全温和无刺激，吸收好，还具有一定的改善蚊虫叮咬后的症状的功效。
具体实施方式
为使本发明的目的、技术方案和优点更加清楚，下面将对本发明的技术方案进行详细的描述。显然，所描述的实施例仅仅是本发明的一部分实施例，而不是全部的实施例。基于本发明中的实施例，本领域普通技术人员在没有做出创造性劳动的前提下所得到的所有其它实施方式，都属于本发明所保护的范围。
以下实施例中，积雪草根提取物购自上海珈凯生物科技有限公司，其中，羟基积雪草苷含量为12.6wt％；紫草根提取物购自亿利耐雀生物科技有限公司，其中，水溶性紫草素含量为0.5wt％；薄荷叶提取物、金黄洋甘菊提取物、马齿苋提取物、苦参根提取物、库拉索芦荟提取物、香叶天竺葵提取物均购自NCK。
表1深层补水修复组合物配方
制备方法为：
(1)按上述配比称取各原料，将甘油、丁二醇、甜菜碱、甘油聚醚-26以及透明质酸钠(对比例3省去)加入乳化锅中，加热至80℃使溶解完全，得到溶液1；
(2)将溶液1降温至55℃，然后加入积雪草根提取物，搅拌均匀，得到溶液2；(对比例1省去该步骤)
(3)将溶液2降温至45℃，然后加入剩余各原料，搅拌均匀，即得。
以上述深层补水修复组合物制备面霜，面霜配方以及制备方法如下：
表2面霜配方
制备方法为：
(1)将A相各原料加入油相锅中，加热至85℃，搅拌使溶解均匀，得到油相；
(2)将B相各原料加入水相锅中，加热至90℃，搅拌使溶解均匀，得到水相；
(3)将油相抽入水相锅中，3500r/min均质5min,继续搅拌10min，待降温至45℃时，加入C相各原料，搅拌均匀，即得。
本发明补水效果试验研究
随机选取年龄在25-40岁的60名志愿者，将所有志愿者分为1#面霜组、2#面霜组、3#面霜组、4#面霜组、5#面霜组以及市售保湿面霜组共6组，每组10人，各组在年龄分布、皮肤含水量方面均无显著性差异，具有可比性。所有志愿者暂停其它面部护肤品2天，并于试验开始前清洁面部，之后将对应样品按1.0mg/cm2的用量均匀涂抹于面部，每天早晚各使用1次，分别于第1次使用前以及连续使用2周、4周后，清洁面部，使用电容法皮肤测定仪进行皮肤含水量测试，分别于受试者两侧脸颊、额头、鼻翼以及下巴区域处各取一个位置进行测量，对同一测试区域测量5次，取所有区域皮肤含水量的平均值。
表3补水效果试验结果
结果表明，添加本发明实施例3组合物的2#面霜组在使用前，与其它各组在皮肤含水量方面情况接近，但在连续使用2周以及4周后，皮肤含水量较其余各组增长明显更优，说明本发明实施例3组合物各原料配比最为合理，各组分之间相互配合，取得了较为突出的补水保湿效果。
本发明晒后修复效果试验研究
随机选取30名皮肤晒伤的志愿者，表现为暴露部位可见弥漫性红斑，边界清楚，局部可自觉灼痛。将所有志愿者随机分为2组，每组15名，各组先用清水清洁晒伤部位，然后分别使用2#面霜以及市售晒后修复面霜，按1.0mg/cm2的用量均匀涂抹，每天早晚各使用一次，连续使用2天后，按以下标准对使用效果进行统计：显效：红斑基本消失，灼热及痛感完全消除；有效：红斑减轻50％-80％，边界明显变淡，灼热及痛感明显减轻；无效：红斑变化不明显或减轻程度小于50％；结果见表4。
表4晒后修复效果试验结果
| 组别 | 显效人数 | 有效人数 | 无效人数 | 总有效率 |
| 2#面霜组 | 5 | 9 | 1 | 93.33％ |
| 市售晒后修复面霜组 | 0 | 10 | 5 | 66.67％ |
结果表明，添加本发明实施例3组合物的2#面霜对晒后肌肤具有很好的修复作用，较市售产品具有明显优势，说明本发明具有较好的退红舒敏、修复受损肌肤的作用。
以上所述，仅为本发明的具体实施方式，但本发明的保护范围并不局限于此，任何熟悉本技术领域的技术人员在本发明揭露的技术范围内，可轻易想到变化或替换，都应涵盖在本发明的保护范围之内。因此，本发明的保护范围应以所述权利要求的保护范围为准。
Claims (10)
1.一种深层补水修复组合物，其特征在于，原料组分包括：
积雪草根提取物4-6重量份、紫草根提取物0.1-0.2重量份、薄荷叶提取物1-2重量份、金黄洋甘菊提取物1-2重量份、马齿苋提取物1-2重量份、苦参根提取物1-2重量份、库拉索芦荟提取物1-2重量份、香叶天竺葵提取物1-2重量份、仿生类保湿剂6.01-6.03重量份、溶剂10-16重量份、非仿生类保湿剂12-16重量份。
2.根据权利要求1所述的深层补水修复组合物，其特征在于，所述积雪草根提取物中，羟基积雪草苷含量>12wt％；所述紫草根提取物中，水溶性紫草素含量≥0.5wt％。
3.根据权利要求1所述的深层补水修复组合物，其特征在于，所述仿生类保湿剂包括透明质酸钠、胶原蛋白、胶原多肽、胶原低聚肽、氨基酸、乳酸盐、尿素、吡咯烷酮羧酸钠、尿囊素、神经酰胺中的任意一种或几种。
4.根据权利要求3所述的深层补水修复组合物，其特征在于，所述仿生类保湿剂为透明质酸钠和胶原低聚肽的混合物。
5.根据权利要求4所述的深层补水修复组合物，其特征在于，所述仿生类保湿剂为透明质酸钠和胶原低聚肽按重量比0.01-0.03:5-7组成的混合物。
6.根据权利要求3-5任一项所述的深层补水修复组合物，其特征在于，所述胶原低聚肽为寡肽-1、寡肽-2、寡肽-3、寡肽-5按重量比1-2:1-2:1-2:1-2组成的混合物。
7.根据权利要求1所述的深层补水修复组合物，其特征在于，所述溶剂为多元醇类，所述非仿生类保湿剂为甜菜碱、甘油聚醚-26的混合物。
8.一种制备权利要求4所述深层补水修复组合物的方法，其特征在于，包括如下步骤：
(1)将溶剂、非仿生类保湿剂、透明质酸钠混合后加热至80-85℃使溶解完全，得到溶液1；
(2)将溶液1降温至50-55℃，然后加入积雪草根提取物，搅拌均匀，得到溶液2；
(3)将溶液2降温至40-45℃，然后加入剩余各原料，搅拌均匀，即得。
9.一种护肤品，其特征在于，由权利要求1所述深层补水修复组合物和化妆品辅料基质组成。
10.根据权利要求9所述的护肤品，其特征在于，所述护肤品为水剂、膏霜、乳液、洗液、面膜中的任意一种，所述深层补水修复组合物在所述护肤品中的添加量为1-5wt％。
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