CN111297737A - 一种含海藻提取物的活血、抗衰中药面膜及制备方法 - Google Patents
一种含海藻提取物的活血、抗衰中药面膜及制备方法 Download PDFInfo
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Abstract
本发明公开了一种含海藻提取物的活血、抗衰中药面膜，包括以下组分:白花百合花水60‑85%、甘油3‑10%、海藻提取物3‑10%、功效型中药提取物5‑15%、小分子透明质酸钠0.1%‑2%、冷萃蛇油0.1‑3%，黄原胶0.05‑2%、1,2‑己二醇0.5‑2%、对羟基苯乙酮0.1%‑1%，其中功效型中药提取物包含霍山石斛、活血藤、益母草、丹参、灵芝、野菊花、葛根、金银花、桑叶、合欢皮、艾叶、土茯苓的提取物。本发明采用深海中资源广阔的藻类通过酶解法得到有效成分天然海藻提取物，充分利用因地取材的原则选用安徽大别山区地道中药材，将高保湿性、营养丰富的海藻提取物与活血、抗衰、美白、抗炎等中药材提取物联合使用具有协同增效作用，制得具有明显保湿、抗衰、亮肤、天然安全、无毒副作用等多种功效的中药面膜。
Description
技术领域
本发明涉及中药化妆品技术领域，具体为一种含海藻提取物的活血、抗衰中药面膜及制备方法。
背景技术
随着环境污染日益严峻以及人们的工作压力越来越大，致使越来越严重的皮肤问题广泛存在。同时随着现代生活水平的不断提高，更多的消费者开始注重皮肤的保养，特别是天然护肤化妆品备受青睐。我国中草药资源丰富，中医药理论底蕴深厚而历史悠久，目前中草药提取物以其天然的特点应用于护肤品中已成为人们研究的热点。
安徽省大别山区野生药用动、植物种类及养殖、栽培品种都很丰富，选用大别山区活血化瘀、抗衰类药材用于化妆品系列有利于大别山中药材的应用推广。活血类中药材提取物的作用机制是以“活血化瘀”的方式增加肌肤的新陈代谢，使沉淀的黑色素和老化的角质排出体外，美容养颜，提亮肤色。
在美容护肤品中，面膜属于快速供给肌肤水分及营养物质的一种护肤方式。但是目前市场上的面膜鱼龙混杂，面膜液有些含有过量的香精、化学防腐剂、杀菌剂等等，很多出现有刺激、过敏、无效、毒副作用、诱发疾病等等问题，因此，设计一款天然有效、安全无刺激的中药面膜具有重要的实用价值。
发明内容
为了解决以上提出的问题，本发明提供一种含海藻提取物的活血、抗衰中药面膜及制备方法，设计了一款安全有效的活血抗衰类中药面膜，本发明采用深海中资源广阔的藻类通过酶解法得到有效成分天然海藻提取物，充分利用因地取材的原则选用安徽大别山区地道中药材，将高保湿性、营养丰富的海藻提取物与活血、抗衰、美白、抗炎等中药材提取物联合使用具有协同增效作用，制得具有明显保湿、抗衰、提亮肤色、天然安全、无致敏率、无毒副作用等多种功效的中药面膜。
本发明提供一种含海藻提取物的活血、抗衰中药面膜，该面膜液配方按照百分数含量，由以下组分组成:白花百合花水60-85%、甘油3-10%、海藻提取物3-10%、功效型中药提取物5-15%、小分子透明质酸钠0.1%-2%、冷萃蛇油0.1-3%，黄原胶0.05-2%、1,2-己二醇0.5-2%、对羟基苯乙酮0.1%-1%。
该活血、抗衰中药面膜的制备方法：按上述配方量将黄原胶分散于甘油中，搅拌均匀，依次加入白花百合花水、海藻提取物、小分子透明质酸钠、冷萃蛇油，加热至80℃充分溶解后降温，降温至50℃加入功效型中药提取物、1,2-己二醇、对羟基苯乙酮，搅拌均匀后400目过滤出料，将面膜布完全浸入该面膜液中，成型得到活血、抗衰中药面膜。
海藻提取物的提取工艺，将200g海藻用清水洗净去杂，在45℃恒温烘箱干燥12h，再用粉碎机粉碎，过100目筛，加入3L蒸馏水，调节pH=5.0，加入纤维素酶，纤维素酶用量为2%，恒温酶解3h，90℃灭酶10min，在离心机经过离心，离心机转速为3000r/min，离心时间为10min，提取上清液，加入活性炭脱色，过滤，50℃旋转蒸发浓缩，冷冻干燥得到海藻提取物。
其中，海藻包括大叶海藻、红藻、螺旋藻、小球藻、巨藻、绿藻、褐藻、蓝藻、墨角藻、珊瑚藻、小球藻、海蕴的一种或几种的组合。
该功效型中药提取物，由以下重量份的中药原料制成：所述功效型中药提取物，由以下重量份的中药原料制成：霍山石斛5-20份，活血藤5-18份、益母草5-15份、丹参5-13份、灵芝5-10份、野菊花5-10份、葛根5-10份、金银花2-8份、桑叶1-8份、合欢皮1-6份、艾叶1-6份、土茯苓1-5份。
本发明还介绍了该功效型中药提取物的制备工艺：将所述重量份中药原料进行快速水洗3次，去除上浮杂质及下沉残渣，干燥，超微粉碎，过筛得到混合药粉，加入蒸馏水，在85℃下煎煮提取3次，合并3次提取液，减压浓缩，放置至室温，即得到功效型中药提取物。
功效型中药提取物包含：
1.具有活血抗氧化作用的中药材：霍山石斛、活血藤、益母草，其作用机制是以“活血化瘀”的方式增加肌肤的新陈代谢，提高人体血液循环，使沉淀的黑色素和老化的角质排出体外，从根本上解决皮肤问题。
2.具有抗衰美白作用的中药材：丹参、灵芝、野菊花、葛根，抗衰老类中药材主要含有中药黄酮类和多糖类化合物，具有抗氧化、清除自由基、抑菌等作用，美白类中药成分主要具有抑制酪氨酸酶的活性。
3.具有抗炎作用的中药材：金银花、桑叶，此类中药提取物具有抗真菌、抗细菌的作用，目前导致腐败的微生物种类繁多，常用的防腐剂有尼泊金脂类、异噻唑啉酮、金刚烷氯化物、咪唑烷基脲、苯甲酸及其衍生物、醇类及其衍生物类等，这些合成防腐剂存在安全性问题，这与人们追求绿色纯天然的理念相悖，因此研究开发中药抗菌抑菌剂，取代化学防腐剂，更符合绿色天然的理念。
4.具有抗过敏作用的中药材：合欢皮、艾叶，艾叶中的有效成分不仅是过敏介质的阻释剂，也是过敏介质的拮抗剂，合欢皮提取物是一十分高效的组胺抑制剂，均具有抗过敏作用。
5.具有紧肤作用的中药材：茯苓，可使纤维芽细胞包裹的胶原蛋白的直径和体积缩小，从而有收缩效果，因此茯苓提取物可用于紧肤化妆品。
6.具有保湿作用的中药材：白花百合花、海藻提取物。白花百合花富含蛋白质、糖、磷、铁以及多种微量元素，具有较高的医疗价值。大分子海藻提取物除了自身含有海藻胶、维生素、氨基酸等多种营养物质外，还具有很好的保湿成膜性，在皮肤表面形成一层天然保护膜，兼具保护和提供保湿、滋养、调理的功效。
与现有技术相比，本发明的有益效果是：
1.本发明将面膜液各组分运用中医“辨证论治、君臣佐使”的用药原则进行配伍，使各组分发挥各自的作用优势，具有协同作用，得到一款安全有效的活血抗衰类中药面膜，本发明使用效果理想，安全无刺激，制备方法简单易操作，对于大别山区丰富中药材的有效利用具有促进作用，能够创造良好的社会与经济效益；
2.本发明采用深海中资源广阔的藻类通过酶解法得到有效成分天然海藻提取物，充分利用因地取材的原则选用安徽大别山区地道中药材，将高保湿性、营养丰富的海藻提取物与活血、抗衰、美白、抗炎等中药材提取物联合使用具有协同增效作用，制得具有明显保湿、抗衰、提亮肤色、天然安全、无毒副作用等多种功效的中药面膜。
附图说明
图1是本发明的制备工艺流程图；
图2是本发明疗程测试中随着时间的增加受试人员皮肤中的水分含量变化情况；
图3是本发明疗程测试中随着时间的增加受试人员的皮肤弹性变化情况。
具体实施方式
实施例1
面膜液配方设计包括：白花百合花水60-85%、甘油3-10%、海藻提取物3-10%、功效型中药提取物5-15%、小分子透明质酸钠0.1%-2%、冷萃蛇油0.1-3%，黄原胶0.05-2%、1,2-己二醇0.5-2%、对羟基苯乙酮0.1%-1%。
海藻提取物的提取工艺：将200g海藻用清水洗净去杂，在45℃恒温烘箱干燥约12h，再用粉碎机粉碎，过100目筛，加入3L蒸馏水，纤维素酶用量为2%，调节pH=5.0，加入纤维素酶，恒温酶解3h，90℃灭酶10min，离心(3000r/min，10min)，提取上清液，加入活性炭脱色，过滤，50℃旋转蒸发浓缩至一定体积，冷冻干燥得到海藻提取物，所述海藻包括大叶海藻、红藻、螺旋藻、小球藻、巨藻、绿藻、褐藻、蓝藻、墨角藻、珊瑚藻、小球藻、海蕴的一种或几种的组合。
其中功效型中药提取物由以下重量份数的中药制成：霍山石斛20份，活血藤18份、益母草15份、丹参13份、灵芝10份、野菊花10份、葛根10份、金银花8份、桑叶8份、合欢皮6份、艾叶6份、土茯苓5份，将原料进行快速水洗3次，去除上浮杂质及下沉残渣，干燥，超微粉碎，过筛得到混合药粉，加入蒸馏水，在85℃下煎煮提取3次，合并各提取液，减压浓缩，放置至室温，即得到功效型中药提取物a。
面膜制作工艺：按照配方量将黄原胶分散于甘油中，搅拌均匀，依次加入白花百合花水、海藻提取物、小分子透明质酸钠、冷萃蛇油，加热至80℃充分溶解后降温，降温至50℃加入功效型中药提取物a、1,2-己二醇、对羟基苯乙酮，搅拌均匀后400目过滤出料，将面膜布完全浸入面膜液中，成型得到中药面膜1。
实施例2
实施例2与实施例1的区别在于：功效型中药提取物由以下重量份数的原料药制成：霍山石斛5份，活血藤5份、益母草5份、丹参13份、灵芝10份、野菊花10份、葛根10份、金银花8份、桑叶8份、合欢皮6份、艾叶6份、土茯苓5份，将原料进行快速水洗3次，去除上浮杂质及下沉残渣，干燥，超微粉碎，过筛得到混合药粉，加入蒸馏水，在85℃下煎煮提取3次，合并各提取液，减压浓缩，放置至室温，即得到所述功效型中药提取物b，加入到面膜配方中制备得到中药面膜2。
实施例3
实施例3与实施例1的区别在于：功效型中药提取物由以下重量份数的中药制成:霍山石斛20份，活血藤18份、益母草15份、丹参5份、灵芝5份、野菊花5份、葛根5份、金银花5份、桑叶4份、合欢皮6份、艾叶6份、土茯苓5份，将原料进行快速水洗3次，去除上浮杂质及下沉残渣，干燥，超微粉碎，过筛得到混合药粉，加入蒸馏水，在85℃下煎煮提取3次，合并各提取液，减压浓缩，放置至室温，即得到所述功效型中药提取物c，加入到面膜配方中制备得到中药面膜3。
实施例4
实施例4与实施例1的区别在于：该配方中采用功效型中药提取物a，但去掉海藻提取物，其他原料不变，按照实施例1的面膜制作工艺制备得到中药面膜4。
实施例5
实施例5与实施例1的区别在于：该配方中去掉功效型中药提取物，其他原料不变，按照实施例1的面膜制作工艺制备得到中药面膜5。
实施例6
实施例6与实施例1的区别在于：功效型中药提取物由以下重量份数的中药制成:霍山石斛20份，活血藤18份、益母草15份、丹参13份、灵芝10份、野菊花10份、葛根10份、金银花2份、桑叶1份、合欢皮1份、艾叶1份、土茯苓1份，将原料进行快速水洗3次，去除上浮杂质及下沉残渣，干燥，超微粉碎，过筛得到混合药粉，加入蒸馏水，在85℃下煎煮提取3次，合并各提取液，减压浓缩，放置至室温，即得到所述功效型中药提取物d，加入到面膜配方中制备得到中药面膜6。
下面对实施例1-6进行性能测试：
1、酪氨酸酶抑制率的测定方法：
准确吸取中药面膜液样品0.5mL、2.0mL的pH=6.81磷酸盐缓冲液和0.5mL的L-酪氨酸溶液（重量浓度0.8mg/mL）及Folin试剂开始反应，在37℃的恒温水浴中持续反应20min，于520nm处测定吸光度。
按以下公式计算：酪氨酸酶抑制率P(%)
（1）
式中，A1-代表只添加酪氨酸酶未添加面膜液的样品混合液所测的吸光度；
A01-代表未添加面膜液和酶的空白对照品所测的吸光度；
A2-代表添加面膜液和酶的混合液所测的吸光度；
A3-代表只添加面膜液而未添加酶的样品混合液所测的吸光度。
2、•O2-自由基清除率的测定方法：
将2mL的pH=8.3Tris-HCl缓冲溶液加入具塞试管中，在约25℃水浴中放置15min，然后加入1mL面膜液和0.1mL的3mmol/L邻苯三酚溶液(10mmol/L的HC1溶液作溶剂)，摇匀，放入约25℃的水浴保持反应4min，选择波长360nm测定吸光度A4；用0.1mL的HC1溶液替代邻苯三酚溶液，测定吸光度A5；用1mL蒸馏水代替面膜液并测定吸光度A02。根据式(4)计算抑制率Q(%)。
•O2自由基清除率Q(%)=
（2）
3、DPPH•自由基清除率的测定方法：
分别取2mL面膜液和2mL的DPPH•乙醇溶液（浓度为0.2mmol/L）加入同一具塞试管中，摇匀，避光放置40min，用紫外-可见分光光度计测定混合溶液在520nm处的吸光度A6；测定2mL的纯水与2mL的DPPH•乙醇溶液（浓度为0.2mmol/L）混合后的吸光度A03；取2mL面膜液与2mL无水乙醇混合后的吸光度A7，根据式(2)计算DPPH•自由基清除率R(%)。
DPPH •自由基清除率R(%)=
（3）
4、•OH自由基清除率的测定方法：
将各2mL的水杨酸-乙醇溶液(5mmol/L)、FeSO4溶液(5mmol/L)、面膜液加入同一具塞试管中，然后加入2mL的H2O2溶液(5mmol/L)，摇匀，放置于37℃水浴中反应40min，选择波长512nm测定吸光度A8；用2mL蒸馏水代替H2O2溶液测定吸光度A9；用2mL蒸馏水代替面膜液并测定吸光度A04。根据式(3)计算抑制率S(%)。
•OH自由基清除率S(%)=
（4）
根据以上4种方法，测定中药面膜1-5对酪氨酸酶的抑制率以及对•O2-、DPPH•、•OH自由基的清除率，结果如表1所示，结果表明面膜1的配方功效是最佳的，具有最好的抗氧化抗衰作用；面膜2结果表明霍山石斛、活血藤、益母草等活血类药材对超氧自由基及羟基自由基有很好的抗氧活性；面膜3结果表明丹参、灵芝、野菊花、葛根对酪氨酸酶抑制以及对三种自由基的清除都有比较好的效果；面膜4结果表明海藻提取物在配方中具有抗氧化的作用，与中药提取物配伍起到协同增效作用；面膜5结果表明中药提取物是配方中的主要功效原料，不可缺少。
表1 五种配方面膜对酪氨酸酶抑制率P(％)，•O2-自由基抑制率Q(％)，・OH自由基抑制率R(%)，DPPH•自由基抑制率S(％)
抗菌性能测试：根据上述验证选择最佳配方面膜1与面膜6进行抗菌性检测试验，用10个棕色玻璃瓶，分为两组各5个，一组是面膜1，另一组是面膜6，每个玻璃瓶盛放一张面膜。敞开瓶盖，置于35℃环境、相对湿度85%、含有多种杂菌的室内，持续观察并测试，记录霉斑岀现时间，取两组平均值，试验结果如表2所示，结果表明金银花、桑叶、合欢皮、艾叶、土茯苓具有明显的抑菌作用，是天然的抑菌抗炎添加剂，其中金银花、桑叶也具有抗氧化和抑制酪氨酸酶的作用。
表2 面膜1和面膜6的霉斑出现时间
| 面膜1 | 面膜6 | |
| 霉斑出现时间（天） | 70 | 52 |
稳定性测试的方法：
1、耐热测试，将恒温培养箱调节至50±1℃，将面膜1-6各一份置于恒温培养箱内保持24h后，取出，恢复室温后观察是否有变稀、变色、分层及硬度变化等现象，此种方法同一张面膜反复重复3次，以判断产品的耐热性能，具体结果如表3所示。
2、耐寒测试，将冰箱调节到-20℃±1℃，将面膜1-6各一份置于冰箱内保持24h后，取出，恢复室温后观察其是否有变稀、变色、分层及硬度变化等现象，此种方法同一张面膜反复重复3次，以判断产品的耐寒性能，具体结果如表3所示。
依据表3可知，面膜1-4稳定性比较好；由于面膜5和面膜6分别缺少了全部中药提取物和抑菌中药材的减少导致抗氧化性、色泽、抑菌率发生变化，从而降低了稳定性。
表3 面膜1-6耐热耐寒性试验后色泽、粘度、抑菌率、抗氧化性的变化情况
| 面膜1 | 面膜2 | 面膜3 | 面膜4 | 面膜5 | 面膜6 | |
| 色泽 | 不变 | 不变 | 不变 | 不变 | 轻微变黄 | 不变 |
| 粘度 | 不变 | 不变 | 不变 | 不变 | 不变 | 轻微变稀 |
| 抑菌率 | 不变 | 不变 | 不变 | 不变 | 不变 | 稍降低 |
| 抗氧化性 | 不变 | 不变 | 不变 | 不变 | 稍降低 | 不变 |
随机抽取300位受试人员，年龄30-50岁混合性皮肤，让受试人员对本发明面膜进行连续1个月试用，每晚敷1次，对使用前后受试人员皮肤中的水分、弹性、胶原纤维、色素含量变化进行了测试，并对是否过敏、是否有刺激性进行了调查，弹性测试采用德国CK公司MPA580皮肤弹性测试仪测试受试者使用1个月后皮肤弹性变化，具体如表4所示，结果表明面膜1的补水保湿、抗衰、美白功效是最好的；面膜2结果表明霍山石斛、活血藤、益母草等活血类药材可以增加肌肤的新陈代谢，使沉淀的黑色素和老化的角质排出体外，提亮肤色，使美容效果持久、稳定；面膜3结果表明丹参、灵芝、野菊花、葛根对保湿、抗氧化、去皱都有比较好的效果；面膜4结果表明大分子的海藻提取物在配方中具有比较好的保湿效果，在皮肤表面形成一层天然保护膜，兼具保湿、滋养、调理的功效，保湿是抗衰、美白的前提，对中药提取物的功效发挥具有增效作用；面膜5结果表明中药提取物是配方中的主要功效原料，缺少之后大大降低了面膜的保湿、抗衰、抗氧化等特性；面膜6结果表明金银花、桑叶、合欢皮、艾叶、土茯苓具有抑菌抗敏的作用，大大减量之后面膜具有一定的致敏率。
表4 受试者使用面膜1-6后的水分增加量、弹性增加量、胶原纤维增加量、色素减少量、过敏情况、刺激性情况
| 水分增加量 | 弹性增加量 | 胶原纤维增加量 | 色素减少量 | 过敏情况 | 刺激性情况 | |
| 面膜1 | 26.5% | 17.8% | 16.3% | 13.3% | 无 | 无 |
| 面膜2 | 25.8% | 13.7% | 12.8% | 10.1% | 无 | 无 |
| 面膜3 | 26.3% | 12.6% | 11.5% | 9.2% | 无 | 无 |
| 面膜4 | 15.6% | 11.5% | 10.3% | 8.7% | 无 | 无 |
| 面膜5 | 17.4% | 7.2% | 5.8% | 4.9% | 无 | 无 |
| 面膜6 | 24.5% | 12.1% | 11.2% | 8.9% | 少量过敏 | 无 |
面膜疗程的确定：综合表1，2，3，4的试验结果选择面膜1为最佳配方的中药面膜，对面膜1的疗程确定进行试验，随机抽取100位受试人员，年龄30-50岁混合性皮肤，让受试人员对本发明面膜进行连续试用42天，每晚敷1次，对试用0天、7天、14天、28天、35天、42天受试人员皮肤中的水分、弹性进行了测试，结果如图2和图3所示，结果表明使用1周后有明显的水分量和弹性增加，2周后补水保湿、抗衰作用的效果逐渐增加，直到4-5周时效果达到最佳值，以此确定面膜1的疗程为4-5周。
Claims (7)
1.一种含海藻提取物的活血、抗衰中药面膜，其特征在于，面膜液包括以下质量百分比配方：白花百合花水60-85%、甘油3-10%、海藻提取物3-10%、功效型中药提取物5-15%、小分子透明质酸钠0.1%-2%、冷萃蛇油0.1-3%、黄原胶0.05-2%、1,2-己二醇0.5-2%、对羟基苯乙酮0.1%-1%。
2.权利要求1所述的一种含海藻提取物的活血、抗衰中药面膜的制备方法，其特征在于，按所述配方量将黄原胶分散于甘油中，搅拌均匀，依次加入白花百合花水、海藻提取物、小分子透明质酸钠、冷萃蛇油，加热至80℃充分溶解后降温，降温至50℃加入功效型中药提取物、1,2-己二醇、对羟基苯乙酮，搅拌均匀后400目过滤出料，将面膜布完全浸入该面膜液中，成型得到活血、抗衰中药面膜。
3.权利要求2中所述的一种含海藻提取物的活血、抗衰中药面膜的制备方法，其特征在于，所述海藻提取物的提取工艺，将200g海藻用清水洗净去杂，在45℃恒温烘箱干燥12h，再用粉碎机粉碎，过100目筛，加入3L蒸馏水，调节pH=5.0，加入纤维素酶，纤维素酶用量为2%，恒温酶解3h，90℃灭酶10min，在离心机经过离心，提取上清液，加入活性炭脱色，过滤，50℃旋转蒸发浓缩，冷冻干燥得到海藻提取物。
4.根据权利要求3所述的一种含海藻提取物的活血、抗衰中药面膜的制备方法，其特征在于，所述海藻包括大叶海藻、红藻、螺旋藻、小球藻、巨藻、绿藻、褐藻、蓝藻、墨角藻、珊瑚藻、小球藻、海蕴的一种或几种的组合。
5.根据权利要求3所述的一种含海藻提取物的活血、抗衰中药面膜的制备方法，其特征在于：所述离心机转速为3000r/min，离心时间为10min。
6.根据权利要求2所述的一种含海藻提取物的活血、抗衰中药面膜的制备方法，其特征在于，所述功效型中药提取物，由以下重量份的中药原料制成：霍山石斛5-20份，活血藤5-18份、益母草5-15份、丹参5-13份、灵芝5-10份、野菊花5-10份、葛根5-10份、金银花2-8份、桑叶1-8份、合欢皮1-6份、艾叶1-6份、土茯苓1-5份。
7.根据权利要求6所述的一种含海藻提取物的活血、抗衰中药面膜的制备方法，其特征在于，所述功效型中药提取物的制备工艺：将所述重量份中药原料进行快速水洗3次，去除上浮杂质及下沉残渣，干燥，超微粉碎，过筛得到混合药粉，加入蒸馏水，在85℃下煎煮提取3次，合并3次提取液，减压浓缩，放置至室温，即得到功效型中药提取物。
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