CN111000770A - Whitening cream containing pearl peptide - Google Patents

Whitening cream containing pearl peptide Download PDF

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Publication number
CN111000770A
CN111000770A CN201911355829.2A CN201911355829A CN111000770A CN 111000770 A CN111000770 A CN 111000770A CN 201911355829 A CN201911355829 A CN 201911355829A CN 111000770 A CN111000770 A CN 111000770A
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percent
pearl
extract
peptide
pearl peptide
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唐长明
阮华君
王婷
魏狄兰
詹国灿
吴年锋
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Zhejiang Changshengniao Health Technology Co ltd
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Zhejiang Changshengniao Health Technology Co ltd
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9783Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
    • A61K8/9789Magnoliopsida [dicotyledons]
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/31Hydrocarbons
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34Alcohols
    • A61K8/345Alcohols containing more than one hydroxy group
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    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
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    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/44Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/49Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
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    • A61K8/4946Imidazoles or their condensed derivatives, e.g. benzimidazoles
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/64Proteins; Peptides; Derivatives or degradation products thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/92Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
    • A61K8/922Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof of vegetable origin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9728Fungi, e.g. yeasts
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/02Preparations for care of the skin for chemically bleaching or whitening the skin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/74Biological properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/78Enzyme modulators, e.g. Enzyme agonists
    • A61K2800/782Enzyme inhibitors; Enzyme antagonists

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Abstract

The invention discloses a pearl peptide-containing whitening cream, which comprises the following components in percentage by mass: water: 52 to 84 percent; humectant: 1 to 9 percent; thickening agent: 0.1 to 0.8 percent; emulsifier: 1 to 5 percent; skin conditioner: 2 to 5 percent; and (3) an emollient: 3 to 9 percent; preservative: 0.1 to 1 percent; pearl peptide: 2 to 5 percent; cherry extract: 1 to 3 percent; extract of artocarpus macrophyllus: 1 to 2 percent; undecylenoyl phenylalanine: 0.2-1%; and (2) adding a griffonia seed extract: 1 to 2 percent; ergothioneine: 1 to 2 percent; the beer yeast extract: 1 to 2 percent; kojic acid dipalmitate: 1 to 2 percent. Has good synergistic effect, thereby achieving better whitening effect; in addition, the whitening component in the whitening cream provided by the invention is mainly pearl peptide compounded with various plant extracts, so that the skin irritation is reduced while the whitening effect is achieved.

Description

Whitening cream containing pearl peptide
Technical Field
The invention belongs to the technical field of cosmetics, and particularly relates to pearl peptide-containing whitening cream.
Background
In recent years, whitening cosmetics have been increasingly favored by oriental women as the aesthetic level of skin appearance has been improved. The whitening products on the market at present mainly comprise two types: 1. physical whitening products of the type which, by physically dispersing therein a white or light-coloured filler, cover the skin surface uniformly during use, achieve the effect of temporarily changing the skin tone due to the refracting and reflecting action of light. 2. Chemical whitening products, by adding various whitening active ingredients, such as melanin, which has been formed by accelerating epidermal renewal, exfoliating the stratum corneum; inhibiting the migration of melanosomes from melanocytes to keratinocytes. Inhibiting melanin formation by inhibiting tyrosinase activity; the melanin formation is inhibited by inhibiting melanocyte division and reducing melanocyte number. For example, Chinese patent with publication number CN104688654A discloses a whitening cream and a preparation method thereof. A whitening cream, the composition comprising the following components: the common auxiliary materials of the whitening cream comprise pearl powder, pearl extracts, a glycyrrhiza glabra aqueous solution, hydrolyzed conchiolin and pea extracts, wherein the content of the pearl powder and the content of the pearl extracts are not zero at the same time, the percentage content of the glycyrrhiza glabra extract in the glycyrrhiza glabra aqueous solution is 0.5-5.0%, and the common auxiliary materials of the whitening cream do not comprise the pearl powder, the pearl extracts, the glycyrrhiza glabra aqueous solution, the hydrolyzed conchiolin and the pea extracts. For example, chinese patent publication No. CN101313887 discloses a whitening emulsion containing pearl hydrolysate liposome, which is prepared from hexadecyl, octadecyl (and) cocoyl glucoside, polydimethylsiloxane, cyclomethicone, vitamin E, carbomer resin, allantoin, glycerin, 1,3 butylene glycol, disodium edetate, seaweed extract, triethanolamine, vitamin C wrap, pearl hydrolysate liposome, diazolidinyl urea, essence and deionized water by emulsifying and homogenizing.
The basal layer cells of the human epidermis contain 4 to 5 percent of pigment cells. The color of human skin is not dependent on the number of melanocytes, but on the number, size, distribution and degree of melanosomes. Tyrosinase is the first step rate-limiting enzyme and key enzyme in melanin synthesis. Melanin synthesis or production occurs in melanosomes of melanocytes, which contain the relevant enzymes required for melanin synthesis, and tyrosine in skin cells is gradually oxidized into dopa and dopaquinone under the action of tyrosinase and by various factors in the environment, and finally is gradually converted into melanin, and can be transported from melanocytes to adjacent keratinocytes after melanin synthesis, thereby distributing melanin throughout the epidermis. And tyrosinase is a copper-containing oxygenase, and oxygen radicals must participate in the reaction process of converting tyrosine into dopa, namely, the oxygen radicals are both an initiator and a reactant, and the process of catalytic oxidation of tyrosinase is also a process of removing free radicals in a human body. The scavenging of oxygen free radicals can block the catalytic reaction of tyrosinase, thereby weakening the intensity of tyrosine oxidation reaction.
Because the reasons for melanin formation are manifold, in order to make the whitening effect of the product obvious, the reasons for melanin formation and whether the synergistic effect or the anti-synergistic effect exists among various substances used must be comprehensively considered.
Disclosure of Invention
The invention aims to provide the whitening cream containing the pearl peptide, and the whitening cream provided by the invention has a better whitening effect.
The invention adopts the following technical scheme:
the pearl peptide-containing whitening cream comprises the following components in percentage by mass:
water: 52 to 84 percent
Humectant: 1 to 9 percent
Thickening agent: 0.1 to 0.8 percent
Emulsifier: 1 to 5 percent
Skin conditioner: 2 to 5 percent
And (3) an emollient: 3 to 9 percent of
Preservative: 0.1 to 1 percent
Pearl peptide: 2 to 5 percent
Cherry extract: 1 to 3 percent of
Extract of artocarpus macrophyllus: 1 to 2 percent
Undecylenoyl phenylalanine: 0.2 to 1 percent
And (2) adding a griffonia seed extract: 1 to 2 percent
Ergothioneine: 1 to 2 percent
The beer yeast extract: 1 to 2 percent
Kojic acid dipalmitate: 1 to 2 percent.
The moisturizing agent in the whitening cream is selected from one or a combination of at least two of glycerin, 1, 3-butanediol, polyethylene glycol-400, propylene glycol or sorbitol, the thickening agent is selected from one or a combination of at least two of acryloyl dimethyl taurate/VP copolymer, xanthan gum, hydroxyethyl cellulose, carbomer or sodium alginate, the emulsifying agent is selected from one or a combination of at least two of polyglyceryl-3 methyl glucose distearate, PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate or PEG-9 polydimethylsiloxyethyl polydimethylsiloxane, the skin conditioning agent is squalane, the emollient agent is selected from one or a combination of at least two of cyclopentadimethylsiloxane, C10-13 isoparaffin, diethylhexyl carbonate, octyl methicone, trimethylsiloxysilicate, jojoba oil or cetearyl alcohol, the preservative is selected from one or a combination of at least two of phenoxyethanol, bronopol, methylisothiazolinone, iodopropynyl butylcarbamate and paraben.
Preferably, the moisturizing agent in the whitening cream is glycerin, the thickening agent is acryloyl dimethyl ammonium taurate/VP copolymer, the emulsifying agent is polyglycerol-3 methyl glucose distearate, the skin conditioning agent is squalane, the emollient agent comprises synthetic jojoba oil and cetostearyl alcohol, and the preservative is phenoxyethanol.
Preferably, the emollient comprises 2-4% synthetic jojoba oil and 1-5% cetearyl alcohol, by mass.
Preferably, the whitening cream comprises the following components in percentage by mass:
water: 59 to 78 percent of
Glycerol: 2 to 8 percent of
Acryloyldimethyl ammonium taurate/VP copolymer: 0.3 to 0.6 percent
Polyglyceryl-3 methyl glucose distearate: 2 to 4 percent of
Squalane: 3 to 4 percent of
Synthesis of jojoba oil: 2.5 to 3.5 percent
Cetostearyl alcohol: 2 to 4 percent of
Phenoxyethanol: 0.3 to 0.6 percent
Pearl peptide: 3 to 4 percent of
Cherry extract: 1.5 to 2.5 percent
Extract of artocarpus macrophyllus: 1 to 2 percent
Undecylenoyl phenylalanine: 0.2 to 1 percent
And (2) adding a griffonia seed extract: 1 to 2 percent
Ergothioneine: 1 to 2 percent
The beer yeast extract: 1 to 2 percent
Kojic acid dipalmitate: 1 to 2 percent.
Further preferably, the whitening cream comprises the following components in percentage by mass: water: 60 to 76 percent
Glycerol: 1 to 9 percent
Acryloyldimethyl ammonium taurate/VP copolymer: 0.3 to 0.6 percent
Polyglyceryl-3 methyl glucose distearate: 2 to 4 percent of
Squalane: 3 to 4 percent of
Synthesis of jojoba oil: 2.5 to 3.5 percent
Cetostearyl alcohol: 2 to 4 percent of
Phenoxyethanol: 0.3 to 0.6 percent
Pearl peptide: 3 to 4 percent of
Cherry extract: 2 to 2.5 percent
Extract of artocarpus macrophyllus: 1 to 2 percent
Undecylenoyl phenylalanine: 0.4 to 0.8 percent
And (2) adding a griffonia seed extract: 1.6 to 2 percent
Ergothioneine: 1.2 to 1.6 percent
The beer yeast extract: 1.5 to 1.7 percent
Kojic acid dipalmitate: 1.4-1.8%.
Preferably, the pearl peptide is a pearl extract, the molecular weight of the pearl peptide is 300-2100Da, the pearl peptide contains 2-14 amino acids, and the average molecular weight of the amino acids is about 150 Da. Wherein the amino acid in the pearl peptide contains one or more of lysine, leucine, phenylalanine, valine, tyrosine, aspartic acid or glutamic acid. The pearl peptide has higher activity, and has better synergistic effect with other components in whitening cream on improving whitening effect.
Preferably, the preparation method of the pearl peptide comprises the following steps: (1) adding pearl powder into acid solution for acidolysis, and collecting supernatant and first insoluble protein; soaking the first insoluble protein in water, and centrifuging to obtain a second supernatant and a second insoluble protein; combining the first supernatant and the second supernatant; (2) vacuum heat concentrating the combined first supernatant and second supernatant to separate out calcium lactate, filtering, mixing with the second insoluble protein, homogenizing to obtain homogenate; (3) carrying out enzymolysis on the homogenate under a weak acid condition by using a compound protease solution to obtain an enzymolysis solution, wherein the compound protease solution comprises a trypsin solution, a papain solution and a keratinase solution; (4) decolorizing and sterilizing the enzymolysis solution, and making into liquid or powder small molecule active peptide. In the step (3), the mass ratio of trypsin, papain and keratinase in the compound protease liquid is 0.5-3:8-12: 2-6; the total mass of trypsin, papain and keratinase in the composite protease liquid is 1-3% of the mass of the total protein in the homogenate; the temperature of the enzymolysis is 45-60 ℃, and the time of the enzymolysis is 12-24 h.
The whitening mechanism is as follows: melanocytes are present in the basal layer of the skin epidermis and contain tyrosinase, when the tyrosinase is stimulated by factors such as ultraviolet rays, emotion and the like, the tyrosinase is activated and reacts with the tyrosine to finally form melanin granules, and the melanin granules are transferred to the surface layer of the skin under the promotion of cell metabolism, so that the skin color is darker. The method has the advantages that melanin generation is reduced through different ways of inhibiting melanin generation, the pearl peptide has the activity of inhibiting tyrosinase, other active ingredients capable of inhibiting tyrosinase are compounded, the synergistic effect can be achieved, the pearl peptide has complementary effects with other whitening agents such as ergothioneine and the like, the skin whitening effect is finally achieved, the pearl peptide and the other whitening agents are perfectly combined to promote the elimination of melanin and inhibit the synthesis of the melanin, the melanin generation is comprehensively inhibited from multiple links, the effect is more obvious, lasting, safe and reliable, and the method is one of effective methods for whitening the skin.
In the present invention: pearl peptide: inhibiting tyrosinase activity. Cherry extract, extract of artocarpus macrophyllus: the oriental cherry and the large-leaf osmanthus have strong inhibition effect on the tyrosinase activity; the oriental cherry and the large-leaf osmanthus fragrans also have an inhibiting effect on the link of melanin generation by the automatic oxidation of dopachrome.
Undecylenoyl phenylalanine: the compound is synthesized by taking undecylenic acid and phenylalanine as raw materials, can inhibit the activity of tyrosinase, is similar to the structure of melanocyte stimulating hormone (a-MsH), and can control the combination of a-MsH and melanin generating factors so as to block the process of melanin formation.
And (2) adding a griffonia seed extract: melatonin in human body can inhibit melanin synthesis, 5-hydroxytryptophan is contained in the Griffonia simplicifolia seed extract, and 5-hydroxytryptophan is precursor of 5-hydroxytryptamine (serotonin), and can improve the concentration of 5-hydroxytryptamine for brain supplement and promote melatonin synthesis; the Griffonia simplicifolia seed extract with different concentrations also has obvious free radical scavenging capability and strong antioxidant effect, and can reduce melanin intermediate products.
Ergothioneine: ergothioneine is known as 2-mercapto-L-histidine trimethyl inner salt, is a novel natural strong antioxidant, and can scavenge hydroxyl free radical. The beer yeast extract: the antioxidant substances produced by beer yeast metabolism mainly include sulfite/SO 2, Glutathione (GSH), superoxide dismutase (SOD), thioredoxin, etc. Therefore, the Saccharomyces cerevisiae extract has antioxidant effect, and can scavenge free radicals and reduce melanin intermediate.
Kojic acid dipalmitate: tyrosinase destructive inhibition due to Cu2+The active site of tyrosinase is formed, kojic acid dipalmitate is chelated with copper ions in the tyrosinase in advance, so that the copper ions lose the action, the tyrosinase lacking the copper ions loses the catalytic activity, the whitening effect is finally achieved, the activity of DHICA oxidase can be inhibited, and the polymerization of Dihydroxyindole (DHI) into melanin is blocked. Kojic acid dipalmitate is a common kojic acid derivative and has the characteristics of stable property, low irritation and the like.
Therefore, the whitening components in the whitening cream provided by the invention can inhibit tyrosinase activity, effectively remove free radicals, block melanin generation and other ways to reduce melanin generation, and the components and contents of the components have good synergistic effect, so that a good whitening effect is achieved; the whitening component in the whitening cream provided by the invention is mainly pearl peptide compounded with various plant extracts, so that the irritation to the skin is reduced while whitening is realized; the components and the content of the emollient are added, so that the skin dryness can be relieved, and the emollient is particularly suitable for being used as skin lubricating oil in cold seasons, and can form a natural skin protection barrier.
Detailed Description
In order to make the objects, technical solutions and advantages of the present invention more apparent, the present invention is further described in detail with reference to the following embodiments. It should be understood that the detailed description and specific examples, while indicating the scope of the invention, are intended for purposes of illustration only and are not intended to limit the scope of the invention.
The preparation method of the whitening cream containing the pearl peptide provided by the invention comprises the following steps: heating water, glycerol, and ammonium acryloyldimethyl taurate/VP copolymer to 70-75 deg.C to dissolve to obtain water phase, heating polyglycerol-3-methyl glucose distearate, squalane, synthetic jojoba oil, and cetearyl alcohol to 70-75 deg.C to dissolve to obtain oil phase; adding the oil phase material into the water phase material, stirring, cooling to 45 deg.C after completely dissolving, adding phenoxyethanol, stirring to dissolve, cooling to 40 deg.C, adding Margarita peptide, stirring to dissolve, adding the rest whitening agents one by one, stirring, cooling to 35 deg.C, and discharging to obtain whitening cream.
The preparation method of the pearl peptide provided by the invention comprises the following steps:
(1) decalcification: weighing Margarita powder, and mixing with 1g Margarita powder (nanometer Margarita powder): slowly adding 12mL of lactic acid (2mol/L) into the lactic acid solution while stirring, carrying out acidolysis until no bubbles are generated, centrifuging, and collecting the supernatant and the insoluble protein respectively. Infusing insoluble protein with pure water, centrifuging again, removing supernatant, mixing supernatants, and storing the insoluble protein at 4 deg.C.
(2) Pulping: vacuum concentrating the combined supernatant to 1/5, cooling for crystallization, precipitating calcium lactate, and filtering; concentrating the filtrate under vacuum again until the volume is 1/2, cooling for crystallization, precipitating calcium lactate, and filtering. And (4) carrying out vacuum drying on the collected calcium lactate crystals and then sealing and storing. Mixing the filtrate with insoluble protein, homogenizing to obtain homogenate, and storing at 4 deg.C. Wherein the total protein concentration in the homogenate is 2 mg/mL.
(3) Preparing a compound protease solution: weighing a certain amount of trypsin, adding a little 0.1M citric acid-sodium citrate buffer solution (pH 6.6), heating to 55 deg.C, cooling to room temperature after the enzyme is completely dissolved, preparing into 0.5mg/mL trypsin solution with the buffer solution, centrifuging, collecting supernatant, and storing at 4 deg.C. According to the method, 5.0mg/mL papain solution and 3.0mg/mL keratinase solution are prepared respectively. Mixing three enzyme solutions according to the proportion of trypsin solution, papain solution and keratinase solution being 1:1:0.5(v: v: v) to obtain composite protease solution, and storing at 4 ℃.
(4) Enzymolysis: diluting the homogenate with purified water, adjusting pH to 6.5 + -0.2 with 0.1M citric acid-sodium citrate buffer solution (pH 6.6), adding the composite protease solution according to the proportion that the total mass of trypsin, papain and keratinase in the composite protease solution is 2% of the total mass of the total protein in the homogenate, mixing the two solutions in a fermentation tank, and performing enzymolysis at the constant temperature of 55 ℃ for 10h to obtain an enzymolysis solution containing the small molecule active peptide.
(5) And (3) decoloring: adding active carbon according to 5% of the enzymolysis liquid, mixing uniformly and stirring for 10 minutes, and centrifuging to remove the precipitate.
(6) And (3) sterilization: performing ultra-high temperature instantaneous sterilization (112 deg.C, 30s), sterilizing, and vacuum packaging to obtain Margarita peptide.
Example 1 to example 6
The formulations of the pearl peptide-containing whitening creams of examples 1 to 6 are shown in table 1.
TABLE 1 formulation of whitening creams in examples 1-6
Figure BDA0002335892760000111
The whitening effect of the whitening creams prepared in examples 1 to 6 was verified:
1. the testing principle (refer to the whitening and freckle removing efficacy testing method of cosmetics of Zhejiang health product and cosmetics industry Association):
the change in skin color can be measured using a skin complexion measuring instrument. The currently widely adopted measurement method for quantifying skin color is to quantify the skin color by three primary color stimulus values (L, a, b) specified by the international commission on illumination (CIE), and the method has accurate quantification, can reflect the multidimensional change of a skin color space, and enables the skin color to be quantified more reliably. The test indexes are the MI value of the skin melanin content (the higher the measured value is, the higher the melanin content in the skin is), the L value of the skin whiteness/brightness and the ITA degree (the L value indicates that L is white balance, the larger the value is, the more white the color is, and conversely, the color is, the black is, the ITA degree value is the individual type angle of the skin, the larger the ITA degree value is, the brighter the skin is). Therefore, the whitening effect of the cosmetic can be judged by measuring the melanin content of the skin stratum corneum and the skin chromaticity.
2. Laboratory apparatus
Multi-probe skin test system (MPA4, CK, germany); skin color test probe (CL400, CK, germany); skin red melanin tester and test probe (Mexameter MX18, CK, germany).
3. Detailed description of the invention
120 subjects with dull facial skin color, healthy body, regular life and no skin diseases are screened, the subjects are randomly divided into 6 groups, 20 subjects in each group are used, and the facial skin is subjected to melanin and color difference data acquisition, analysis and test before the samples are tried. The test subjects used the samples once a day, morning and evening, and during the test period, other cosmetics or drugs were prohibited and the samples were continuously used for 4 weeks. Data collection was performed at week 0, week 1, week 2, week 3, and week 4, respectively. Evaluating the changes of skin whiteness (brightness) and skin melanin content before and after the cosmetic is used by a subject, observing the use result, and determining the whitening effect of the cosmetic.
Test results of pearl peptide-containing whitening cream prepared in example 1: skin melanin and skin brightness are shown in tables 2 and 3, respectively.
Table 2 test results for whitening cream prepared in example 1-skin melanin
Figure BDA0002335892760000131
Table 3 test results for whitening cream prepared in example 2-skin brightness
Figure BDA0002335892760000132
Test results of pearl peptide-containing whitening cream prepared in example 2: skin melanin and skin brightness are shown in tables 4 and 5, respectively.
Table 4 test results for whitening cream prepared in example 2-skin melanin
Figure BDA0002335892760000141
Table 5 test results for whitening cream prepared in example 2-skin brightness
Figure BDA0002335892760000142
Test results of pearl peptide-containing whitening cream prepared in example 3: skin melanin and skin brightness are shown in tables 6 and 7, respectively.
Table 6 test results for whitening cream prepared in example 3-skin melanin
Figure BDA0002335892760000143
Table 7 test results for whitening cream prepared in example 3-skin brightness
Figure BDA0002335892760000151
Test results of pearl peptide-containing whitening cream prepared in example 4: skin melanin and skin brightness are shown in tables 8 and 9, respectively.
Table 8 test results for whitening cream prepared in example 4-skin melanin
Figure BDA0002335892760000152
Table 9 test results for whitening cream prepared in example 4-skin brightness
Figure BDA0002335892760000153
Test results of pearl peptide-containing whitening cream prepared in example 5: skin melanin and skin brightness are shown in tables 10 and 11, respectively.
TABLE 10 test results for whitening cream prepared in example 5-skin melanin
Figure BDA0002335892760000161
Table 11 test results for whitening cream prepared in example 5-skin brightness
Figure BDA0002335892760000162
Test results of pearl peptide-containing whitening cream prepared in example 6: skin melanin and skin brightness are shown in tables 12 and 13, respectively.
Table 12 test results for whitening cream prepared in example 6-skin melanin
Figure BDA0002335892760000163
Table 13 test results for whitening cream prepared in example 6-skin brightness
Figure BDA0002335892760000171
The above-mentioned embodiments are intended to illustrate the technical solutions and advantages of the present invention, and it should be understood that the above-mentioned embodiments are only the most preferred embodiments of the present invention, and are not intended to limit the present invention, and any modifications, additions, equivalents, etc. made within the scope of the principles of the present invention should be included in the scope of the present invention.

Claims (8)

1. The pearl peptide-containing whitening cream is characterized by comprising the following components in percentage by mass:
water: 52 to 84 percent
Humectant: 1 to 9 percent
Thickening agent: 0.1 to 0.8 percent
Emulsifier: 1 to 5 percent
Skin conditioner: 2 to 5 percent
And (3) an emollient: 3 to 9 percent of
Preservative: 0.1 to 1 percent
Pearl peptide: 2 to 5 percent
Cherry extract: 1 to 3 percent of
Extract of artocarpus macrophyllus: 1 to 2 percent
Undecylenoyl phenylalanine: 0.2 to 1 percent
And (2) adding a griffonia seed extract: 1 to 2 percent
Ergothioneine: 1 to 2 percent
The beer yeast extract: 1 to 2 percent
Kojic acid dipalmitate: 1 to 2 percent.
2. The pearl peptide-containing whitening cream according to claim 1, wherein the humectant in the whitening cream is glycerin, the thickener is ammonium acryloyldimethyl taurate/VP copolymer, the emulsifier is polyglyceryl-3-methylglucose distearate, the skin conditioner is squalane, the emollient comprises synthetic jojoba oil and cetostearyl alcohol, and the preservative is phenoxyethanol.
3. The cream containing pearl peptide according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the emollient comprises 2-4% of synthetic jojoba oil and 1-5% of cetearyl alcohol by mass.
4. The pearl peptide-containing whitening cream according to any one of claims 1 to 3, comprising in mass percent:
water: 59 to 78 percent of
Glycerol: 2 to 8 percent of
Acryloyldimethyl ammonium taurate/VP copolymer: 0.3 to 0.6 percent
Polyglyceryl-3 methyl glucose distearate: 2 to 4 percent of
Squalane: 3 to 4 percent of
Synthesis of jojoba oil: 2.5 to 3.5 percent
Cetostearyl alcohol: 2 to 4 percent of
Phenoxyethanol: 0.3 to 0.6 percent
Pearl peptide: 3 to 4 percent of
Cherry extract: 1.5 to 2.5 percent
Extract of artocarpus macrophyllus: 1 to 2 percent
Undecylenoyl phenylalanine: 0.2 to 1 percent
And (2) adding a griffonia seed extract: 1 to 2 percent
Ergothioneine: 1 to 2 percent
The beer yeast extract: 1 to 2 percent
Kojic acid dipalmitate: 1 to 2 percent.
5. The pearl peptide-containing whitening cream according to any one of claims 1 to 3, comprising in mass percent:
water: 60 to 76 percent
Glycerol: 1 to 9 percent
Acryloyldimethyl ammonium taurate/VP copolymer: 0.3 to 0.6 percent
Polyglyceryl-3 methyl glucose distearate: 2 to 4 percent of
Squalane: 3 to 4 percent of
Synthesis of jojoba oil: 2.5 to 3.5 percent
Cetostearyl alcohol: 2 to 4 percent of
Phenoxyethanol: 0.3 to 0.6 percent
Pearl peptide: 3 to 4 percent of
Cherry extract: 2 to 2.5 percent
Extract of artocarpus macrophyllus: 1 to 2 percent
Undecylenoyl phenylalanine: 0.4 to 0.8 percent
And (2) adding a griffonia seed extract: 1.6 to 2 percent
Ergothioneine: 1.2 to 1.6 percent
The beer yeast extract: 1.5 to 1.7 percent
Kojic acid dipalmitate: 1.4-1.8%.
6. The whitening cream containing pearl peptide according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the pearl peptide is a pearl extract, the molecular weight of the pearl peptide is 300-2100Da, the pearl peptide contains 2-14 amino acids, and the average molecular weight of the amino acids is about 150 Da.
7. The whitening cream containing pearl peptide according to claim 6, wherein the preparation method of the pearl peptide comprises the following steps:
(1) adding pearl powder into acid solution for acidolysis, and collecting supernatant and first insoluble protein; soaking the first insoluble protein in water, and centrifuging to obtain a second supernatant and a second insoluble protein; combining the first supernatant and the second supernatant;
(2) vacuum heat concentrating the combined first supernatant and second supernatant to separate out calcium lactate, filtering, mixing with the second insoluble protein, homogenizing to obtain homogenate;
(3) carrying out enzymolysis on the homogenate under a weak acid condition by using a compound protease solution to obtain an enzymolysis solution, wherein the compound protease solution comprises a trypsin solution, a papain solution and a keratinase solution;
(4) decolorizing and sterilizing the enzymolysis solution, and making into liquid or powder small molecule active peptide.
8. The pearl peptide-containing whitening cream according to claim 7, characterized in that the mass ratio of trypsin, papain and keratinase in the compound protease solution is 0.5-3:8-12: 2-6; the total mass of trypsin, papain and keratinase in the composite protease liquid is 1-3% of the mass of the total protein in the homogenate; the temperature of the enzymolysis is 45-60 ℃, and the time of the enzymolysis is 12-24 h.
CN201911355829.2A 2019-12-25 2019-12-25 Whitening cream containing pearl peptide Pending CN111000770A (en)

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