CN110996901B - 油包水型乳化化妆品 - Google Patents
油包水型乳化化妆品 Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- CN110996901B CN110996901B CN201880054503.3A CN201880054503A CN110996901B CN 110996901 B CN110996901 B CN 110996901B CN 201880054503 A CN201880054503 A CN 201880054503A CN 110996901 B CN110996901 B CN 110996901B
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- Prior art keywords
- oil
- component
- water
- polydimethylsiloxane
- cosmetic
- Prior art date
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- 239000002537 cosmetic Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 55
- 239000007762 w/o emulsion Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 19
- -1 polydimethylsiloxane Polymers 0.000 claims description 64
- 229920000435 poly(dimethylsiloxane) Polymers 0.000 claims description 56
- 239000004205 dimethyl polysiloxane Substances 0.000 claims description 54
- 229920006037 cross link polymer Polymers 0.000 claims description 47
- 239000007787 solid Substances 0.000 claims description 25
- 229920001296 polysiloxane Polymers 0.000 claims description 21
- 229920002379 silicone rubber Polymers 0.000 claims description 18
- 238000002156 mixing Methods 0.000 claims description 15
- 239000007788 liquid Substances 0.000 claims description 12
- 239000001993 wax Substances 0.000 claims description 11
- XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N water Substances O XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 8
- GTJOHISYCKPIMT-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-methylundecane Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCC(C)C GTJOHISYCKPIMT-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 7
- SGVYKUFIHHTIFL-UHFFFAOYSA-N Isobutylhexyl Natural products CCCCCCCC(C)C SGVYKUFIHHTIFL-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 7
- VKPSKYDESGTTFR-UHFFFAOYSA-N isododecane Natural products CC(C)(C)CC(C)CC(C)(C)C VKPSKYDESGTTFR-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 7
- DTPCFIHYWYONMD-UHFFFAOYSA-N decaethylene glycol Chemical compound OCCOCCOCCOCCOCCOCCOCCOCCOCCOCCO DTPCFIHYWYONMD-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 4
- 102000011782 Keratins Human genes 0.000 claims description 3
- 108010076876 Keratins Proteins 0.000 claims description 3
- 239000012188 paraffin wax Substances 0.000 claims description 3
- 239000004698 Polyethylene Substances 0.000 claims description 2
- 125000002496 methyl group Chemical group [H]C([H])([H])* 0.000 claims description 2
- 229940078812 myristyl myristate Drugs 0.000 claims description 2
- 229920000573 polyethylene Polymers 0.000 claims description 2
- DZKXJUASMGQEMA-UHFFFAOYSA-N tetradecyl tetradecanoate Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCOC(=O)CCCCCCCCCCCCC DZKXJUASMGQEMA-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- 229940099259 vaseline Drugs 0.000 claims 1
- 230000000694 effects Effects 0.000 abstract description 13
- 239000006071 cream Substances 0.000 abstract description 4
- 230000003020 moisturizing effect Effects 0.000 abstract description 4
- 235000013870 dimethyl polysiloxane Nutrition 0.000 description 53
- 239000003921 oil Substances 0.000 description 47
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- 239000000203 mixture Substances 0.000 description 42
- 239000011243 crosslinked material Substances 0.000 description 20
- 125000003438 dodecyl group Chemical group [H]C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])* 0.000 description 18
- PEDCQBHIVMGVHV-UHFFFAOYSA-N Glycerine Chemical compound OCC(O)CO PEDCQBHIVMGVHV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 14
- 229940008099 dimethicone Drugs 0.000 description 14
- PRAKJMSDJKAYCZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N squalane Chemical compound CC(C)CCCC(C)CCCC(C)CCCCC(C)CCCC(C)CCCC(C)C PRAKJMSDJKAYCZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 13
- 238000005096 rolling process Methods 0.000 description 12
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- 235000014113 dietary fatty acids Nutrition 0.000 description 9
- 239000000194 fatty acid Substances 0.000 description 9
- 229930195729 fatty acid Natural products 0.000 description 9
- KAKZBPTYRLMSJV-UHFFFAOYSA-N Butadiene Chemical group C=CC=C KAKZBPTYRLMSJV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 8
- 125000000217 alkyl group Chemical group 0.000 description 8
- 230000000052 comparative effect Effects 0.000 description 8
- 239000000463 material Substances 0.000 description 8
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- XMSXQFUHVRWGNA-UHFFFAOYSA-N Decamethylcyclopentasiloxane Chemical compound C[Si]1(C)O[Si](C)(C)O[Si](C)(C)O[Si](C)(C)O[Si](C)(C)O1 XMSXQFUHVRWGNA-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 6
- 239000011248 coating agent Substances 0.000 description 6
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- 150000001298 alcohols Chemical class 0.000 description 5
- 239000004359 castor oil Substances 0.000 description 5
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- 239000003795 chemical substances by application Substances 0.000 description 5
- 239000010696 ester oil Substances 0.000 description 5
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- 229930195733 hydrocarbon Natural products 0.000 description 5
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- 239000002480 mineral oil Substances 0.000 description 5
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- 125000000391 vinyl group Chemical group [H]C([*])=C([H])[H] 0.000 description 5
- 229920002554 vinyl polymer Polymers 0.000 description 5
- DSEKYWAQQVUQTP-XEWMWGOFSA-N (2r,4r,4as,6as,6as,6br,8ar,12ar,14as,14bs)-2-hydroxy-4,4a,6a,6b,8a,11,11,14a-octamethyl-2,4,5,6,6a,7,8,9,10,12,12a,13,14,14b-tetradecahydro-1h-picen-3-one Chemical compound C([C@H]1[C@]2(C)CC[C@@]34C)C(C)(C)CC[C@]1(C)CC[C@]2(C)[C@H]4CC[C@@]1(C)[C@H]3C[C@@H](O)C(=O)[C@@H]1C DSEKYWAQQVUQTP-XEWMWGOFSA-N 0.000 description 4
- 229920003171 Poly (ethylene oxide) Polymers 0.000 description 4
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- XDOFQFKRPWOURC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 16-methylheptadecanoic acid Chemical compound CC(C)CCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(O)=O XDOFQFKRPWOURC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- OBETXYAYXDNJHR-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-Ethylhexanoic acid Chemical compound CCCCC(CC)C(O)=O OBETXYAYXDNJHR-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- DNIAPMSPPWPWGF-UHFFFAOYSA-N Propylene glycol Chemical compound CC(O)CO DNIAPMSPPWPWGF-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- 239000010495 camellia oil Substances 0.000 description 3
- 229940085262 cetyl dimethicone Drugs 0.000 description 3
- MTHSVFCYNBDYFN-UHFFFAOYSA-N diethylene glycol Chemical compound OCCOCCO MTHSVFCYNBDYFN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- KPUWHANPEXNPJT-UHFFFAOYSA-N disiloxane Chemical class [SiH3]O[SiH3] KPUWHANPEXNPJT-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- UKMSUNONTOPOIO-UHFFFAOYSA-N docosanoic acid Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(O)=O UKMSUNONTOPOIO-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- 229920001971 elastomer Polymers 0.000 description 3
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- 239000000499 gel Substances 0.000 description 3
- 239000003906 humectant Substances 0.000 description 3
- GLDOVTGHNKAZLK-UHFFFAOYSA-N octadecan-1-ol Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCO GLDOVTGHNKAZLK-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- WWZKQHOCKIZLMA-UHFFFAOYSA-N octanoic acid Chemical compound CCCCCCCC(O)=O WWZKQHOCKIZLMA-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- 235000019271 petrolatum Nutrition 0.000 description 3
- PUPZLCDOIYMWBV-UHFFFAOYSA-N (+/-)-1,3-Butanediol Chemical compound CC(O)CCO PUPZLCDOIYMWBV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- OYHQOLUKZRVURQ-NTGFUMLPSA-N (9Z,12Z)-9,10,12,13-tetratritiooctadeca-9,12-dienoic acid Chemical compound C(CCCCCCC\C(=C(/C\C(=C(/CCCCC)\[3H])\[3H])\[3H])\[3H])(=O)O OYHQOLUKZRVURQ-NTGFUMLPSA-N 0.000 description 2
- KBPLFHHGFOOTCA-UHFFFAOYSA-N 1-Octanol Chemical compound CCCCCCCCO KBPLFHHGFOOTCA-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- ULQISTXYYBZJSJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 12-hydroxyoctadecanoic acid Chemical compound CCCCCCC(O)CCCCCCCCCCC(O)=O ULQISTXYYBZJSJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- WNWHHMBRJJOGFJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 16-methylheptadecan-1-ol Chemical compound CC(C)CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCO WNWHHMBRJJOGFJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- LBPNCQGSZHRGME-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2,2,3,3,4,4-hexahydroxyoctadecanoic acid Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(O)(O)C(O)(O)C(O)(O)C(O)=O LBPNCQGSZHRGME-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- TXBCBTDQIULDIA-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-[[3-hydroxy-2,2-bis(hydroxymethyl)propoxy]methyl]-2-(hydroxymethyl)propane-1,3-diol Chemical compound OCC(CO)(CO)COCC(CO)(CO)CO TXBCBTDQIULDIA-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- BANXPJUEBPWEOT-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-methyl-Pentadecane Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCC(C)C BANXPJUEBPWEOT-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 235000019489 Almond oil Nutrition 0.000 description 2
- WPYMKLBDIGXBTP-UHFFFAOYSA-N Benzoic acid Natural products OC(=O)C1=CC=CC=C1 WPYMKLBDIGXBTP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- OYHQOLUKZRVURQ-HZJYTTRNSA-N Linoleic acid Chemical compound CCCCC\C=C/C\C=C/CCCCCCCC(O)=O OYHQOLUKZRVURQ-HZJYTTRNSA-N 0.000 description 2
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- 239000008168 almond oil Substances 0.000 description 2
- YZXBAPSDXZZRGB-DOFZRALJSA-N arachidonic acid Chemical compound CCCCC\C=C/C\C=C/C\C=C/C\C=C/CCCC(O)=O YZXBAPSDXZZRGB-DOFZRALJSA-N 0.000 description 2
- OGBUMNBNEWYMNJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N batilol Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCOCC(O)CO OGBUMNBNEWYMNJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 125000002511 behenyl group Chemical group [H]C([*])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])[H] 0.000 description 2
- WERYXYBDKMZEQL-UHFFFAOYSA-N butane-1,4-diol Chemical compound OCCCCO WERYXYBDKMZEQL-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
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- 239000003240 coconut oil Substances 0.000 description 2
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Abstract
本发明的目的在于，提供一种油包水型乳化化妆品，其具有优异的整发效果，并且对所涂布的组织赋予滋润的功能较高，具有有别于霜、蜡的清爽的手指触感，手、头发不会产生黏腻感。本发明的油包水型乳化化妆品的特征在于，含有：(A)交联型硅氧烷弹性体、(B)固体油分、(C)液体油分及(D)55质量％以上的水，(B)成分相对于(C)成分的比率((B)/(C))为0.25～1.5。
Description
技术领域
本发明涉及油包水型乳化化妆品。进而详细而言，涉及一种化妆品，其为固体或半固体的化妆品，特别在适用于毛发等角蛋白纤维时发挥优异的整发效果，赋予滋润，并且不产生黏腻感。
背景技术
通常，整发剂中配合有蜡(wax)、蜡等油分或整发树脂，从而可以实现良好的发型的定型力、持久力。另一方面，近年来，大众有喜爱光泽感、光亮感少、且质感自然的发型的倾向，另外，关于使用性也要求没有黏腻感。
例如，专利文献1中提案有一种整发用化妆品，其通过在蜡类及流动油分中配合作为整发树脂的水溶性高分子，从而具有自然的整发性，并且黏腻感较少。
另外，专利文献2中提案有一种乳化型毛发化妆品，其通过配合由源自植物的半固体油分、小烛树蜡、液体油分、表面活性剂和高级脂肪酸得到的复合体，从而易于进行美发，且油腻感、黏腻感较少。
然而，大量配合蜡类、整发树脂时，虽然整发效果提高，但会产生油腻感、发硬感，无法充分满足消费者需要自然造型的需求。另外，虽然一定程度上减轻了整发剂中的黏腻感，但在实际中大多整发剂在消费者使用后需要将残留在手上的整发剂擦拭、或冲洗等，尚未实现不残留黏腻感的整发剂。
现有技术文献
专利文献
专利文献1：日本特开平10-45546号公报
专利文献2：日本特开2009-209103号公报
发明内容
发明要解决的问题
本发明的目的在于，提供一种油包水型乳化化妆品，其具有优异的整发效果，并且对所涂布的组织赋予滋润的功能较高，具有有别于霜、蜡的清爽的手指触感，手、头发不会产生黏腻感。
用于解决问题的方案
本发明人等为了解决前述课题反复进行深入研究，结果发现：通过含有交联型硅氧烷弹性体、固体油分、液体油分和水，并将固体油分与液体油分调节至特定的比率，从而具有整发效果，并且最大限度地抑制黏腻感，具有有别于霜、蜡的清爽的手指触感，从而完成了本发明。
即，本发明提供一种油包水型乳化化妆品，其含有：
(A)交联型硅氧烷弹性体
(B)固体油分
(C)液体油分、及
(D)55质量％以上的水，
(B)成分相对于(C)成分的比率((B)/(C))为0.25～1.5。进而，本发明所述的化妆品优选为固体或半固体、且不为棒状。
发明的效果
本发明通过采用上述构成，可以得到具有对所涂布的组织赋予滋润的功能、没有黏腻感的、触感清爽的化妆品。特别是涂布于毛发等角蛋白组织时，可以发挥使发梢、鬓角等更整齐，抚平头发表面的整发效果，并赋予毛发等自然的光泽感。
附图说明
图1为示出滚动阻力测定的结果的图表。纵轴为滚动阻力的程度，越向图表高处延伸则表示滚动阻力越大。
图2为将滚动阻力的程度和滑动循环数的增加一同示出的图表。纵轴为滚动阻力的程度，越向图表高处延伸则表示滚动阻力越大。
具体实施方式
如上所述，本发明的油包水型乳化化妆品的特征在于，其含有：(A)交联型硅氧烷弹性体、(B)固体油分、(C)液体油分及(D)水。以下，对构成本发明的化妆品的各成分进行详述。
<(A)交联型硅氧烷弹性体>
配合于本发明所述的油包水型乳化化妆品的(A)交联型硅氧烷弹性体(以下，有时简称作“(A)成分”)为使聚二甲基硅氧烷三维交联而成的硅氧烷弹性体(有机硅弹性体)，其包含乳化性及非乳化性者。
作为乳化***联型硅氧烷弹性体，并没有特别限定，可举出交联型聚氧乙烯甲基聚硅氧烷、含烷基交联型聚氧乙烯甲基聚硅氧烷、交联型聚甘油改性有机硅、含烷基交联型聚甘油改性有机硅等。这些乳化***联型硅氧烷弹性体可以使用市售品，所述市售品的形式为于硅油、矿物油、甘油(乙基己酸)酯、角鲨烷等各种油分中溶胀的溶胀物。作为具体例可举出以下。
作为聚氧乙烯甲基聚硅氧烷交联聚合物的溶胀物，可举出KSG-210(((PEG-10/15)/聚二甲基硅氧烷)交联聚合物，聚二甲基硅氧烷的混合物中交联物为20～30％)(信越化学工业株式会社制)、9011有机硅弹性体掺和物((PEG-12/聚二甲基硅氧烷)交联聚合物、环聚二甲基硅氧烷的混合物)(东丽道康宁株式会社制)等。
作为含烷基聚氧乙烯甲基聚硅氧烷交联聚合物的溶胀物，可举出KSG-310((PEG-15/月桂基聚二甲基硅氧烷)交联聚合物，矿物油的混合物中交联物为25～35％)、KSG-320((PEG-15/月桂基聚二甲基硅氧烷)交联聚合物，异十二烷的混合物中交联物为20～30％)、KSG-330((PEG-15/月桂基聚二甲基硅氧烷)交联聚合物，甘油(乙基己酸)酯的混合物中交联物为15～25％)、KSG-340((PEG-15/月桂基聚二甲基硅氧烷)交联聚合物、(PEG-10/月桂基聚二甲基硅氧烷)交联聚合物，角鲨烷的混合物中交联物为25～35％)(以上，信越化学工业株式会社制)等。
作为聚甘油改性有机硅交联聚合物的溶胀物，可举出KSG-710((聚二甲基硅氧烷/聚甘油-3)交联聚合物，聚二甲基硅氧烷的混合物中交联物为20～30％(信越化学工业株式会社制)等。
作为含烷基聚甘油改性有机硅交联聚合物的溶胀物，可举出KSG-810((月桂基聚二甲基硅氧烷/聚甘油3)交联聚合物，矿物油的混合物中交联物为25～35％)、KSG-820((月桂基聚二甲基硅氧烷/聚甘油3)交联聚合物，异十二烷的混合物中交联物为20～30％)、KSG-830((月桂基聚二甲基硅氧烷/聚甘油3)交联聚合物，甘油(乙基己酸)酯的混合物中交联物为15～25％)、KSG-840((月桂基聚二甲基硅氧烷/聚甘油3)交联聚合物，角鲨烷的混合物中交联物为25～35％)(以上，信越化学工业株式会社制)等。
作为非乳化***联型硅氧烷弹性体，并没有特别限定，可举出甲基聚硅氧烷交联聚合物、甲基苯基聚硅氧烷交联聚合物、乙烯基聚二甲基硅氧烷/月桂基聚二甲基硅氧烷交联聚合物、月桂基聚二甲基硅烷氧基乙基聚二甲基硅氧烷/双乙烯基聚二甲基硅氧烷交联聚合物、烷基(C30-45)鲸蜡硬脂基聚二甲基硅氧烷交联聚合物、鲸蜡硬脂基聚二甲基硅氧烷交联聚合物等。这些非乳化***联型硅氧烷弹性体可以使用市售品，所述市售品的形式为于硅油、矿物油、甘油(乙基己酸)酯、角鲨烷等各种油分中溶胀的溶胀物。作为具体例可举出以下。
作为甲基聚硅氧烷交联聚合物的溶胀物，可举出9040有机硅弹性体掺和物(聚二甲基硅氧烷交联聚合物，环戊硅氧烷的混合物中交联物为12％)、9041有机硅弹性体掺和物(聚二甲基硅氧烷交联聚合物，聚二甲基硅氧烷5mPa·s的混合物中交联物为16％)、9045有机硅弹性体掺和物(聚二甲基硅氧烷交联聚合物，环戊硅氧烷的混合物中交联物为12.5％)、EL-8040ID聚硅氧有机掺和物(聚二甲基硅氧烷交联聚合物，异十二烷的混合物中交联物为18％)(以上，东丽道康宁株式会社制)等聚二甲基硅氧烷交联聚合物的溶胀物、KSG-15((聚二甲基硅氧烷/乙烯基聚二甲基硅氧烷)交联聚合物，环戊硅氧烷的混合物中交联物为4～10％)、KSG-16((聚二甲基硅氧烷/乙烯基聚二甲基硅氧烷)交联聚合物，聚二甲基硅氧烷6mPa·s的混合物中交联物为20～30％)、KSG-1610((聚二甲基硅氧烷/乙烯基聚二甲基硅氧烷)交联聚合物，甲基聚三甲基硅氧烷的混合物中交联物为15～20％)(以上，信越化学工业株式会社制)等聚二甲基硅氧烷/乙烯基聚二甲基硅氧烷交联聚合物的溶胀物等。
作为甲基苯基聚硅氧烷交联聚合物的溶胀物，可列举出KSG-18A((聚二甲基硅氧烷/苯基乙烯基聚二甲基硅氧烷)交联聚合物，二苯基硅烷氧基苯基聚三甲基硅氧烷的混合物中交联物为10～20％)(信越化学工业株式会社制)等。
作为乙烯基聚二甲基硅氧烷/月桂基聚二甲基硅氧烷交联聚合物的溶胀物，可举出KSG-41A((乙烯基聚二甲基硅氧烷/月桂基聚二甲基硅氧烷)交联聚合物，矿物油的混合物中交联物为20～30％)、KSG-42A((乙烯基聚二甲基硅氧烷/月桂基聚二甲基硅氧烷)交联聚合物，异十二烷的混合物中交联物为15～25％)、KSG-43((乙烯基聚二甲基硅氧烷/月桂基聚二甲基硅氧烷)交联聚合物，甘油(乙基己酸)酯的混合物中交联物为25～35％)、KSG-44((乙烯基聚二甲基硅氧烷/月桂基聚二甲基硅氧烷)交联聚合物，角鲨烷的混合物中交联物为25～35％)(以上，信越化学工业株式会社制)等。
作为月桂基聚二甲基硅烷氧基乙基聚二甲基硅氧烷/双乙烯基聚二甲基硅氧烷交联聚合物的溶胀物，可举出KSG-042Z((月桂基聚二甲基硅烷氧基乙基聚二甲基硅氧烷/双乙烯基聚二甲基硅氧烷)交联聚合物，异十二烷的混合物中交联物为约20％)、KSG-045Z((月桂基聚二甲基硅烷氧基乙基聚二甲基硅氧烷/双乙烯基聚二甲基硅氧烷)交联聚合物，环戊硅氧烷的混合物中交联物为约20％)(以上，信越化学工业株式会社制)等。
作为烷基(C30-45)鲸蜡硬脂基聚二甲基硅氧烷交联聚合物的溶胀物，可举出VELVESIL 125(烷基(C30-45)鲸蜡硬脂基聚二甲基硅氧烷交联聚合物，环戊硅氧烷的混合物中交联物为约12.5％)、VELVESIL 034(烷基(C30-45)鲸蜡硬脂基聚二甲基硅氧烷交联聚合物，辛基聚甲基硅氧烷的混合物中交联物为约16％)(以上，Momentive PerformanceMaterials Pte.Ltd.制)等。
作为鲸蜡硬脂基聚二甲基硅氧烷交联聚合物的溶胀物，可举出VELVESIL DM(鲸蜡硬脂基聚二甲基硅氧烷交联聚合物，聚二甲基硅氧烷5mPa·s的混合物中交联物为约17％)(Momentive Performance Materials Pte.Ltd.制)等。
(A)成分的配合量相对于油包水型乳化化妆品总量为0.01～10质量％，优选为0.1～8质量％，更优选为0.4～5质量％，进而优选为0.4～3质量％。从(A)成分的配合量不足0.01质量％时会产生黏腻感从而涂布于毛发时会产生不自然的光亮感、配合超过10质量％时使用感会变油腻感，整发时的定型力下降等方面来看不优选。
作为本发明的(A)成分，可以组合使用选自上述的乳化***联型硅氧烷弹性体及非乳化***联型硅氧烷弹性体中的一种或二种以上。另外，为了改善干燥的使用感，优选将选自乳化***联型硅氧烷弹性体的一种或二种以上和选自非乳化***联型硅氧烷弹性体的一种或二种以上组合使用。
<(B)固体油分>
配合于本发明所述的油包水型乳化化妆品中的(B)固体油分(以下，有时简称作“(B)成分”)为通常使用于化妆品的、常温(25℃)下的固体油分，作为具体例，可举出源自天然的及合成的油脂、烃油、高级脂肪酸、高级醇、酯油等。
作为油脂，可例示出可可脂、椰子油、氢化椰子油、棕榈油、棕榈仁油、木蜡核油、木蜡、氢化蓖麻油等。
作为烃油，可例示出地蜡(ozokerite)、纯地蜡(ceresin)、聚乙烯蜡、微晶蜡、石蜡等。
作为高级脂肪酸，可例示出月桂酸、肉豆蔻酸、棕榈酸、硬脂酸、山萮酸、12-羟基硬脂酸、十一碳烯酸等。
作为高级醇，例如可例示出直链醇(例如，月桂醇、鲸蜡醇、硬脂醇、山萮醇、肉豆蔻醇、鲸蜡硬脂醇等)；支链醇(例如，单硬脂甘油醚(鲨肝醇))等。
作为酯油，可例示出肉豆蔻酸肉豆蔻酯、肉豆蔻酸鲸蜡酯、硬脂酸硬脂酯、硬脂酸鲸蜡酯、棕榈酸鲸蜡酯、胆固醇硬脂酸酯、胆固醇油酸酯、糊精棕榈酸酯、菊粉硬脂酸酯、氢化霍霍巴油等。
上述固体油分之中，从没有黏腻感、易于用手延展的观点来看，优选选自烃油及酯油的一种或二种以上。
本发明所述的油包水型乳化化妆品中，可以配合半固体油分作为上述固体油分。
作为可以用于本发明的半固体油分，并没有特别限定，可例示出凡士林、甘油三羊毛脂脂肪酸酯、软质羊毛脂脂肪酸、支链或羟基化胆固醇脂肪酸酯、二季戊四醇脂肪酸酯(二季戊四醇六羟基硬脂酸酯等)、异硬脂酸氢化蓖麻油、单羟基硬脂酸氢化蓖麻油、三(辛酸/癸酸/肉豆蔻酸/硬脂酸)甘油酯、乳酸肉豆蔻酯、二聚亚油酸氢化蓖麻油、二聚亚油酸(植物甾醇/山萮酯)、二聚亚油酸(植物甾醇/异硬脂酯/鲸蜡酯/硬脂酯/山萮酯)、植物甾醇油酸酯、四(山萮酸/苯甲酸/乙基己酸)季戊四醇酯、六羟基硬脂酸二季戊四醇酯等。本发明的化妆品中，从改善整发效果的观点来看，优选在固体油分中配合凡士林。
(B)成分的配合量相对于油包水型乳化化妆品总量为20质量％以下，优选为1.0～20质量％。从(B)成分的配合量不足1.0质量％时无法得到作为化妆品的充分的硬度、配合超过20质量％时延展性变差等方面来看不优选。
<(C)液体油分>
配合于本发明所述的油包水型乳化化妆品的(C)液体油分(以下，有时简称作“(C)成分”)为通常用于化妆品的、常温(25℃)下液状的油分，作为具体例，可举出源自天然的及合成的油脂、脂肪酸、酯油、烃油、高级醇、硅油等。
作为油脂，可例示出亚麻籽油、山茶油、澳洲坚果油、玉米油、橄榄油、鳄梨油、山茶花油、蓖麻油、红花油、杏仁油、肉桂油、霍霍巴油、葡萄籽油、葵花籽油、扁桃油、菜籽油、芝麻油、小麦胚芽油、米胚芽油、米糠油、棉籽油、大豆油、花生油、茶籽油、月见草油等。
作为脂肪酸，可例示出庚酸、辛酸、壬酸、癸酸、十五酸、十七酸、十九酸、异硬脂酸、油酸、亚油酸、亚麻酸、花生四烯酸等。
作为酯油，可例示出四辛酸季戊四醇酯、辛酸鲸蜡酯、月桂酸己酯、肉豆蔻酸异丙酯、肉豆蔻酸辛基十二烷基酯、棕榈酸辛酯、异硬脂酸异丙酯、异棕榈酸辛酯、油酸异癸酯、乙基己酸鲸蜡酯、三(2-乙基己酸)甘油酯等。
作为烃油，可例示出液体石蜡、角鲨烷、角鲨烯、石蜡、异构石蜡、辛烷、癸烷、十二烷、异十二烷、十六烷、异十六烷等。
作为高级醇，可例示出辛醇、异硬脂醇、油醇等。
作为硅油，可例示出二甲基聚硅氧烷、甲基苯基聚硅氧烷、甲基氢聚硅氧烷等链状聚硅氧、八甲基环四硅氧烷、十甲基环五硅氧烷、十二甲基环六硅氧烷、二苯基甲硅烷氧基苯基聚三甲基硅氧烷等环状聚硅氧等。
(C)成分的配合量相对于油包水型乳化化妆品总量为1.0～40质量％，优选为3.0～30质量％，更优选为5.0～25质量％。从(C)成分的配合量不足1.0质量％时涂布时的延展性较差、配合超过40质量％时会产生黏腻感从而涂布于毛发时会产生不自然的光亮感等方面来看不优选。
本发明所述的油包水型乳化化妆品中，为了抑制黏腻感且使延展性良好，将(B)固体油分与(C)液体油分的配合比率((B)/(C))、以质量比计，优选设为0.25～1.5，进而更优选设为0.5～1.2。使(B)成分的配合比率提高时，会产生黏腻感，延展性变差。另外，使(C)成分的配合比率提高时，整发效果变低。
本发明所述的油包水型乳化化妆品进而以(D)水(以下，有时简称作“(D)成分”)作为必须成分。
(D)成分的配合量相对于油包水型乳化化妆品总量为55质量％以上。水分量设为不足55质量％时，会产生黏腻感，毛发等整发效果有变差的倾向。
本发明的化妆品除了上述必须成分(A)～(D)外，还可以在不损害发明效果的范围内配合可以配合于化妆品的其他任意成分。作为任意成分可例示出以下。
通过配合(E)表面活性剂，可以改善乳化稳定性。作为配合于本发明所述的化妆品的(E)表面活性剂，其为制造油包水型乳化物时通常可以使用的表面活性剂，并没有特别限定，可举出HLB为8以下的非离子性表面活性剂、有机硅系表面活性剂等。其中，从没有或减轻黏腻感的观点来看，优选使用有机硅系表面活性剂。有机硅系表面活性剂是指在有机硅骨架中导入有聚氧化烯构造的聚醚改性有机硅之中的非交联型者。
作为有机硅系表面活性剂的具体例，可举出PEG-10聚二甲基硅氧烷、PEG-9聚二甲基硅烷氧基乙基聚二甲基硅氧烷、月桂基PEG-9聚二甲基硅烷氧基乙基聚二甲基硅氧烷等聚醚改性有机硅，也可以混合这些的1种或2种以上而配合。
另外，有机硅系表面活性剂可以以由该表面活性剂与溶剂形成的有机硅凝胶的状态配合，也可以使用市售的有机硅凝胶。可例示出例如KF-6017、KF-6028、KF-6038(以上，信越化学工业株式会社制)等。需要说明的是，这些有机硅凝胶中作为溶剂所包含的油分也被分类为上述成分(C)，其配合量无需他言也被加算到成分(C)的配合量中。
本发明的化妆品中的(E)表面活性剂的配合量通常为0.05～20质量％，优选为0.1～10质量％，更优选为0.5～5质量％。
通过配合(F)保湿剂，可以改善使用后的组织(毛发、皮肤等)的保湿力。
作为保湿剂的具体例，可举出丙二醇、一缩二丙二醇、1,3-丁二醇、1,4-丁二醇、二乙二醇、三乙二醇、聚乙二醇等乙二醇类；甘油、二甘油、聚甘油等甘油类；山梨糖醇、甘露醇、麦芽糖醇、木糖醇、赤藓糖醇等糖醇类；果糖、葡萄糖、半乳糖、麦芽糖、乳糖、海藻糖等糖类。
于本发明的化妆品中配合保湿剂时，其配合量通常为0.1～50质量％，优选为1～30质量％，更优选为5～20质量％。
作为上述以外的任意成分，可举出例如增稠剂、神经酰胺类、维生素类、紫外线吸收剂、螯合剂、杀菌剂、防腐剂、植物提取液、氨基酸、各种药剂、乙醇等低级醇类等。
本发明的化妆品可以按照一直以来可以使用的方法制造。简洁而言，可以通过以下方法制造：根据需要通过将油性成分和水性成分分别加热并混合，从而在油相中将水相乳化，接着将得到的乳化物填充至容器并慢慢冷却。
本发明的化妆品含有大量的水，因此可以对所涂布的组织(毛发、皮肤等)赋予滋润。另外，通过将固体油分与液体油分的配合量调节为特定的比率可从而具有特有的硬度，因此无黏腻感，通过涂布于皮肤上时乳化崩解而内相的水溢出从而可以得到水润的触感。进而，基于硅氧烷弹性体的配合可以得到清爽的触感。
本发明的化妆品的硬度优选为50～500，更优选为75～450，进而优选为100～400。此处“硬度”是指制造次日将放入25℃的恒温槽3小时后的化妆品用流变仪(SUN社制COMPAC100-II)在载荷200g、感压轴8φ、针入度10.0mm、针入速度300mm/min下测定的值。
本发明的化妆品例如为收纳于广口容器等中的固体或半固体的化妆品，本发明的化妆品不包含棒状化妆品。另外，本发明的化妆品优选用手指等取用并涂布。需要说明的是，将化妆品取于手指上时，可以用手指直接从收纳化妆品的容器中取用，也可以用刮片等道具取用。
本发明的化妆品也称为乳霜基剂，可以用于全身护理用，但由于延展性良好、具有整发效果，因此优选用于角蛋白组织的护理用及整发用。另外，本发明的化妆品无黏腻感，因此即使作为整发用化妆品使用，使用后也无需擦拭并冲洗残留于手指的化妆品。
实施例
关于本发明，以下举出实施例进行进一步地详述，但本发明并不受这些实施例的任何限定。需要说明的是，配合量若无特别说明则表示质量％。
通过以下方法制备具有下述的表1揭示的组成的油包水型乳化化妆品：分别加热各例的组成所包含的油性成分和水性成分并混合，从而在油相中将水相乳化，接着将得到的乳化物填充于容器并慢慢冷却。对制备的化妆品进行以下的试验。
1.效果试验
通过10名专家鉴定人进行实际使用性试验。使用性项目为对手或头发的黏腻感的有无、基于手的延展容易度、整发力(制作发型的容易度)、定型力(发型的保持力)，基于下述的基准对各项目进行评价。结果示于表。
<评价基准>
A：9名以上鉴定人表示优异。
B：7名或8名鉴定人表示优异。
C：3名～6名鉴定人表示优异。
D：2名以下鉴定人表示优异。
[表1]
将水分的配合量设为不足55质量％时(比较例1、比较例4)会产生黏腻感，确认到整发力(制作发型的容易度)及定型力(发型的保持力)有较差的倾向。将固体油分的配合比率增高时((B)成分/(C)成分＝2.0，比较例2)定型力良好，但整发力较差，难以延展，会产生黏腻感。另一方面，将固体油分的配合比率降低时((B)成分/(C)成分＝0.21，比较例3)，易于延展，无黏腻感，但整发力及定型力均较差。
相对于上述比较例，配合本申请发明的必须成分，并将固体油分与液体油分的配合比率设为0.25～1.5时，可以得到均具有充分的整发力，并且在延展容易度、黏腻感方面也良好的化妆品。
2.涂布后干燥时的黏腻感(滚动阻力)
然后，将(2)～(10)加热/溶解成油相，在(11)中添加(12)、(13)及(15)，搅拌溶解后添加(1)并使其均匀分散而成水相，在水相中添加油相并使其乳化后，添加(14)、(16)，从而制备由以下揭示的组成形成的发蜡。将制备的发蜡作为比较例5，与前述实施例10一同通过下述的方法测定滚动阻力，并比较黏腻感的评价。
对于前述的实施例10及比较例5的试样，使用日本特许第3945729号记载的装置，通过测定试样与探针之间施加的滚动阻力来测定干燥时的黏腻感。测定条件设为滑动速度1.2cm/s、滑动行程20mm、样品量20μL、平台温度32℃、室温25℃、相对湿度50％。结果于图1及图2示出。
根据图1的结果可以明确：实施例10的试样与比较例5的试样相比，滚动阻力低，干燥时的黏腻感较少。需要说明的是，图1的纵轴为滚动阻力，越向图表高处延伸则表示滚动阻力越大。
另外，根据图2的结果可以明确：随着滑动循环数的增加，比较例5的试样的黏腻感变强，但实施例10的试样的黏腻感上升缓慢，与比较例5相比，表现出黏腻感较少。这表示实施例10的试样不易随干燥而产生黏腻感。
Claims (3)
1.一种油包水型乳化化妆品，其含有：
(A)交联型硅氧烷弹性体0.01～10质量%、
(B)包含半固体油分的固体油分1.0～20质量%、
(C)液体油分1.0～40质量%、及
(D)55质量%以上的水，
(B)成分相对于(C)成分的配合比率((B)/(C))为0.25~1.5，
所述半固体油分为凡士林，
所述(A)成分包含(聚二甲基硅氧烷/(PEG-10/15))交联聚合物和(聚二甲基硅氧烷/苯基乙烯基聚二甲基硅氧烷)交联聚合物的组合，
所述固体油分为选自石蜡、聚乙烯蜡和肉豆蔻酸肉豆蔻酯中的一种以上，
所述(C)成分为选自异十二烷和甲基聚硅氧烷中的一种以上。
2.根据权利要求1所述的油包水型乳化化妆品，其为固体或半固体，其中，棒状除外。
3.根据权利要求1所述的油包水型乳化化妆品，其用于角蛋白组织护理制品。
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| JPH05139929A (ja) * | 1991-11-21 | 1993-06-08 | Kose Corp | 油中水型メークアツプ化粧料 |
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| US20200230036A1 (en) | 2020-07-23 |
| WO2019044685A1 (ja) | 2019-03-07 |
| JPWO2019044685A1 (ja) | 2020-10-01 |
| US11166888B2 (en) | 2021-11-09 |
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