CN110944620B - Hair strengthener - Google Patents

Hair strengthener Download PDF

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Publication number
CN110944620B
CN110944620B CN201880048188.3A CN201880048188A CN110944620B CN 110944620 B CN110944620 B CN 110944620B CN 201880048188 A CN201880048188 A CN 201880048188A CN 110944620 B CN110944620 B CN 110944620B
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hair
composition
tonic
present
strength
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CN110944620A (en
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石森纲行
渡边大介
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Shiseido Co Ltd
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Shiseido Co Ltd
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/36Carboxylic acids; Salts or anhydrides thereof
    • A61K8/365Hydroxycarboxylic acids; Ketocarboxylic acids
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00Preparations for care of the hair

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  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Public Health (AREA)
  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
  • Emergency Medicine (AREA)
  • Birds (AREA)
  • Epidemiology (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)
  • Acyclic And Carbocyclic Compounds In Medicinal Compositions (AREA)

Abstract

The purpose of the present invention is to provide a hair tonic which can improve the strength of hair itself. The present invention relates to a hair tonic comprising glyoxylic acid, a hair tonic composition comprising the hair tonic, and a hair-reinforcing treatment method comprising the steps of: the hair styling agent composition may optionally further comprise (1) applying the hair styling agent or the hair styling agent composition to hair, (2) leaving the hair in a coated state, (3) washing the hair with water, and (4) drying the hair. The pH of the aforementioned composition is preferably in the range of 1.0 to 3.0.

Description

Hair strengthener
Technical Field
The present invention relates to a hair tonic. More specifically, the present invention relates to a hair tonic which can strengthen hair itself, not by covering hair with a film or the like. The present invention also relates to a hair tonic composition and a hair tonic treatment method using the hair tonic.
Background
In hair, polypeptide chains of keratin as a main component are connected by various side chain bonds and form a mesh structure (see fig. 1). It is considered that the polypeptide main chain of hair keratin, which normally forms an α -helix (helix) structure (helix), is deformed into β -keratin (serration) by being stretched, and the hair is thereby elongated. Healthy hair returns to its original length when the tensile stress is removed, but hair damaged by chemical treatments such as permanent waving and bleaching, or external stimuli such as ultraviolet rays tends to have low strength and to be easily broken.
It has been known that protein derivatives such as keratin hydrolysates are suitable for repairing damaged hair. However, keratin hydrolysate and the like have an effect of repairing deformation (peeling) of the horny layer on the hair surface, but have no effect of improving the hair strength.
Patent document 1 discloses a hair restoration composition comprising a cationized protein derivative and a neutral amino acid, and a hair enhancer comprising a polymer compound forming a coating film in the composition. Patent document 2 discloses a hair-strengthening agent comprising an agent a as a buffer solution and an agent B as a 2-component agent containing an aqueous solution of hydroxypropyl cellulose and at least one member selected from the group consisting of D, L-pyrrolidone carboxylic acid, amino acid, and glutathione, and describes that the agent a and the agent B form a rubbery substance on hair that is insoluble in water to strengthen the hair. That is, these conventional techniques are techniques for improving the hair strength by coating the hair surface with a polymer coating film and a gel-like substance.
On the other hand, glyoxylate is used as a hair treatment agent for hair curling and hair curling, and for example, patent document 3 discloses a method of applying an aqueous solution containing glyoxylate to hair and leaving the hair to stand, drying the hair with a hair dryer, and then correcting the hair with a hair straightening iron at a high temperature of about 200 ℃. Patent document 4 discloses a hair treatment agent containing guanidine salt and/or urea in addition to glyoxylic acid, and describes that the hair treatment agent exerts an excellent hair extension (curl suppression) effect. However, the function of glyoxylic acid to improve hair strength is not known at all.
Prior art literature
Patent literature
Patent document 1: japanese patent laid-open No. 10-175824
Patent document 2: japanese patent application laid-open No. 2010-189286
Patent document 3: japanese patent No. 5919267
Patent document 4: japanese patent No. 5947340
Disclosure of Invention
Problems to be solved by the invention
The present invention has been made in view of the above-described conventional techniques, and an object thereof is to provide a hair tonic which can improve the strength of hair itself.
Solution for solving the problem
The present inventors have made intensive studies to solve the above-mentioned problems, and as a result, have found for the first time that glyoxylate conventionally used for hair extension (hair-curling correction) has a function of improving the strength of hair itself, and have completed the present invention.
That is, the present invention provides a hair tonic comprising glyoxylic acid, a hair tonic composition containing the hair tonic, and a hair-reinforcing treatment method using the hair tonic.
ADVANTAGEOUS EFFECTS OF INVENTION
The hair tonic of the present invention can improve the strength of keratin fibers such as hair by forming new bonds between polypeptide chains constituting the keratin fibers.
In the present invention, "hair strengthening" or "hair strength improvement" means to improve the strength of hair itself, and strengthening damaged hair also includes repairing damaged hair, and as a result, imparting "tension" and "toughness" to hair. Accordingly, "hair fortification" in the present invention is interpreted to also include "hair repair" and "imparting tension, toughness to hair". On the other hand, it is recognized that the "hair curling correction" disclosed in the above-mentioned patent documents 3 and 4 causes damage to hair. Thus, substances effective for correction of curly hair have a surprising effect of hair strengthening that cannot be predicted by those skilled in the art.
Drawings
Fig. 1 is a schematic view illustrating the kinds of bonds existing in hair. ( Provenance: "New cosmetic science" 2 nd edition, guangjing Wu Fu edition, nanshantang, 2001, page 66 )
Fig. 2 is a graph showing the results of measuring the intensity of hair treated with the composition of example 2/comparative example 2.
Fig. 3 is a graph showing the results of measuring the intensity of hair treated with the composition of example 1/comparative example 1.
Detailed Description
The hair tonic of the present invention comprises glyoxylic acid. Glyoxylic acid is a compound having a structure represented by the following formula (I).
As schematically shown in fig. 1, various side chain bonds exist within the hair, by means of which the polypeptide chains of keratin are linked, thereby preserving the structure of the hair. The (salt bond) in FIG. 1 shows the electrostatic bonding between (+) charged ammonium ions such as lysine and arginine residues and (-) charged carboxylate ions such as aspartic acid residues, (peptide bond) shows the dehydration bond (-CONH-) between the-COOH group of glutamic acid and the-NH 2 group of lysine residues, etc. (cystine bond) is a bond specific to a protein containing sulfur (S), and (hydrogen bond) is a bond between an amide group and a carboxyl group adjacent thereto, which is not found in other fibers (see "New cosmetics" 2 nd edition, optical well Wu Fu, nanshan Tang, 2001, pages 66 to 67).
For example, when a wave form for permanent wave is formed, disulfide bonds (cystine bonds) among the side chain bonds are broken by a reducing agent, and a new disulfide bond is formed using an oxidizing agent in a state in which the wave form is formed. However, disulfide bonds broken once cannot be all re-bonded, and the total number of side chain bonds in the hair decreases, so that it is considered that the strength of the hair decreases. In addition, when hair is subjected to chemical treatments such as oxidation dyeing and bleaching, a part of side chain bonds is broken by external stimulus such as ultraviolet rays, and it is considered that the hair strength is lowered.
The present inventors have found for the first time that hair strength can be improved by treating hair with glyoxylate to create new bonds between polypeptide chains of keratin via carboxymethylene groups. Such a new bond is presumed to be a cross-linking bond formed between amino acid residues selected from among lysine (Lys) residues, tyrosine (Tyr) residues, and arginine (Arg) residues of a polypeptide chain constituting a keratin (i.e., between Lys-Lys, between Lys-Arg, between Lys-Tyr, between Tys-Tyr, between Atg-Tyr, or between Arg-Arg).
The present invention also relates to a hair tonic composition comprising the aforementioned hair tonic (i.e. glyoxylic acid).
The hair tonic composition of the present invention preferably contains glyoxylic acid in an aqueous medium. The aqueous medium refers to water or a mixture of water and a water-soluble or hydrophilic medium (for example, a lower alcohol having 3 or less carbon atoms).
The amount of glyoxylate to be blended in the hair tonic composition of the present invention is not particularly limited, but is preferably 1 to 30% by mass, more preferably 3 to 20% by mass, and still more preferably 5 to 15% by mass, based on the whole composition. If the amount is less than 1% by mass, the effect of improving the strength of hair is hardly obtained, and if it exceeds 30% by mass, the effect is not further improved, and the composition is not so acidic.
The hair tonic composition of the present invention is preferably produced so that the pH thereof is 3 or less, preferably 2.5 or less, more preferably 2 or less. The lower limit of the pH of the composition is not particularly limited, but is usually 1.0 or more. The pH of the composition may be suitably adjusted by neutralising the acidity of the glyoxylic acid. Examples of the neutralizing agent (pH adjuster) include inorganic bases such as sodium hydroxide and potassium hydroxide, and organic bases such as triethanolamine, isopropanolamine, and basic amino acids, but are not limited thereto.
The hair tonic composition of the present invention may contain, in addition to glyoxylic acid and any neutralizing agent, any other component commonly used in cosmetics, medicines and the like for hair treatment, as long as the effects of the present invention are not impaired. Examples of such optional components include cationic polymers, amino acids, peptides, proteins, metal ion chelating agents, oils, powder components, surfactants, thickeners, powder components, perfumes, powder components, pigments, and the like.
The formulation of the hair tonic composition of the present invention is not particularly limited as long as the desired effect can be sufficiently exhibited, and for example, a liquid, emulsion, gel, foam, cream or the like can be used.
The present invention also provides a hair-enhancing treatment method using the aforementioned hair-enhancing composition. The hair strengthening treatment method of the present invention comprises the steps of: (1) applying the hair tonic or the hair tonic composition to hair, (2) leaving the hair in the applied state, (3) washing the hair with water, (4) drying the hair, and (5) optionally treating the hair with a hair styling iron.
(1) Coating process
The hair tonic composition of the present invention can be applied to dry hair before shampooing, but is preferably applied to wet care in which hair is pre-washed with shampoo and water is removed, and the hair is preferably dried with a towel in which the attached water is removed, from the viewpoint that the hair tonic (glyoxylate) is easily impregnated into hair.
(2) Placing step
After the hair tonic composition is applied, the hair tonic is allowed to stand at room temperature (about 25 ℃) for 10 to 30 minutes, more preferably 15 to 20 minutes, to thereby act on the hair. When the holding time is less than 10 minutes, the hair cannot be sufficiently strengthened, and on the other hand, even if the holding time exceeds 30 minutes, further improvement of the hair strengthening effect commensurate with the holding time cannot be expected.
(3) Washing process
Rinsing the hair with water or warm water and washing the hair tonic composition from the hair. By washing the hair tonic composition from the hair, the hair can be dried and treated easily.
(4) Drying process
After washing with water, the towel was wiped off the water and dried with a blower.
(5) Hair waving device working procedure (arbitrary)
The dried hair in (4) has improved strength, but the step of stretching the hair while applying mechanical force and heat to the hair by a hair iron heated to 140 to 200 ℃, preferably about 180 ℃ may be optionally performed.
If the hair-reinforcing treatment method according to the present invention is applied, the strength of the hair is remarkably improved by newly forming cross-links between lysine, tyrosine and arginine residues constituting the polypeptide chain of keratin by the action of glyoxylic acid.
Examples
The present invention will be described in more detail with reference to the following specific examples, but the present invention is not limited to the following examples. The amount of the components in the following examples and the like is represented by mass% unless otherwise specified.
Hair treatment compositions having the compositions shown in table 1 were produced. Example 1 is a hair tonic composition of the present invention, and comparative example 1 is a general-purpose styling treatment (reducing agent) composition.
TABLE 1
Example 1 Comparative example 1
Glyoxylate aqueous solution (50%) 30 -
Potassium hydroxide aqueous solution (20%) 1.5 -
Stearyl trimethyl ammonium chloride solution (50%) 1 1
Ammonium thioglycolate solution (50%) - 19
Ammonium dithioglycolate solution (40%) - 7.5
Monoethanolamine - 3
EDTA - 0.5
Purified water Residual of Residual of
Aggregation set 100 100
pH 1.6 9.0
The compositions of example 1 and comparative example 1 were applied to healthy hair bundles (equal amounts), left for 15 minutes, washed with water, and dried with a dryer. Then, 3 permanent wave treatments were performed by a straight-through (through) method using a permanent wave device for hair styling set at 180 ℃.
The foregoing treatment cycle was performed 1 or 3 times.
The relationship between the elongation (horizontal axis) and stress (vertical axis) of the hair when one end of the hair bundle subjected to the treatment is fixed and tensile stress is applied in the vertical direction is shown in the graph of fig. 3. The stress value required for 3% elongation of the hair length and the stress value at the time of hair breakage are shown in table 2 below.
TABLE 2
As is clear from the results shown in fig. 3 and table 2, the hair treated with the composition of comparative example 1, which contains thioglycolic acid as a reducing agent used in the permanent wave treatment, had lower strength than the untreated hair, and the hair had further lower strength when the number of treatment cycles was 3. In contrast, when the composition of example 1 containing glyoxylic acid was used for treatment, the strength was significantly improved as compared with untreated hair, and the number of treatment cycles was 3.
Next, hair treatment compositions having the compositions shown in table 3 below were produced. Example 2 is a hair tonic composition of the present invention, and comparative example 2 is a treatment composition containing hydrolyzed protein used for repairing damaged hair.
TABLE 3
Example 2 Comparative example 2
Glyoxylate aqueous solution (50%) 30 -
Hydrolyzed soy protein - 15
Potassium hydroxide aqueous solution (20%) 1.5 -
Stearyl trimethyl ammonium chloride solution (50%) 1 1
Purified water Residual of Residual of
Totalizing 100 100
pH 1.5 6.0
For healthy hair bundles, bleaching treatment was performed 1 time with a bleaching agent (PRIMIENCE CL (Shiseido co., ltd.)) followed by 2 times of hair curling correction treatment with a hair curling correction agent (CRYSTALLIZING STRAIGHT EX (Shiseido co., ltd.)).
The compositions of example 2 and comparative example 2 were applied to the damaged hair bundles (equivalent) produced as described above, left for 15 minutes, then washed with water, and dried by a dryer.
One end of the hair bundle subjected to the foregoing treatment is fixed and tensile stress is applied in the vertical direction. The stress value at hair breakage (breaking point stress) is compared to untreated damaged hair and is shown in fig. 2.
As is clear from the graph of fig. 2, when hair damaged by chemical treatment and having a reduced strength is treated with the composition of example 2 of the present invention, the strength is significantly improved, and the number of treatment cycles is further increased by 3. In comparative example 2, which was a conventional repairing agent, a certain degree of improvement in strength was found, but this degree was not superior to the present invention, and no further improvement in strength was observed even when the treatment cycle was increased.

Claims (3)

1. A hair tonic composition comprising glyoxylic acid-containing hair tonic,
A neutralizing agent,
Stearyl trimethyl ammonium chloride
The water composition is that,
the pH of the composition is in the range of 1.0 to 2.5.
2. The composition of claim 1, wherein the neutralizing agent is potassium hydroxide or sodium hydroxide.
3. A hair strengthening treatment method comprising the steps of:
(1) Applying the hair tonic composition according to claim 1 or 2 to hair,
(2) Placing hair in the coated state,
(3) Washing hair with water,
(4) Drying the hair.
CN201880048188.3A 2017-07-27 2018-07-17 Hair strengthener Active CN110944620B (en)

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JP2017145500A JP7508189B2 (en) 2017-07-27 2017-07-27 Hair Strengthener
JP2017-145500 2017-07-27
PCT/JP2018/026654 WO2019021875A1 (en) 2017-07-27 2018-07-17 Hair strengthening agent

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CN110944620B true CN110944620B (en) 2024-02-02

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JP6548350B1 (en) * 2019-02-07 2019-07-24 株式会社ナンバースリー Hair repair composition and hair repair method
JP6877856B2 (en) * 2019-07-17 2021-05-26 アゼリスジャパン株式会社 Glyoxylic acid-containing hair composition
US20240000679A1 (en) * 2020-11-30 2024-01-04 Jean Paul Myne' Srl Cosmetic composition for the treatment of keratinic fibers and method comprising the application of said composition to the keratinic fibers

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WO2019021875A1 (en) 2019-01-31
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JP7508189B2 (en) 2024-07-01
JP2019026574A (en) 2019-02-21
TW201909882A (en) 2019-03-16
CN110944620A (en) 2020-03-31

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