CN110923920A - Moisture-absorbing and heating light and warm double-faced napping fabric and preparation process thereof - Google Patents

Moisture-absorbing and heating light and warm double-faced napping fabric and preparation process thereof Download PDF

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CN110923920A
CN110923920A CN201911190887.4A CN201911190887A CN110923920A CN 110923920 A CN110923920 A CN 110923920A CN 201911190887 A CN201911190887 A CN 201911190887A CN 110923920 A CN110923920 A CN 110923920A
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cloth
adjusted
dyeing
tension
treatment
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周昭瀚
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Guangdong Yitong Textile Technology Co Ltd
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Guangdong Yitong Textile Technology Co Ltd
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    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/10—Patterned fabrics or articles
    • D04B1/102—Patterned fabrics or articles with stitch pattern
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/10—Patterned fabrics or articles
    • D04B1/12—Patterned fabrics or articles characterised by thread material
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/14—Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials
    • D04B1/16—Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials synthetic threads
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/14—Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials
    • D04B1/18—Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials elastic threads
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06B—TREATING TEXTILE MATERIALS USING LIQUIDS, GASES OR VAPOURS
    • D06B3/00—Passing of textile materials through liquids, gases or vapours to effect treatment, e.g. washing, dyeing, bleaching, sizing, impregnating
    • D06B3/10—Passing of textile materials through liquids, gases or vapours to effect treatment, e.g. washing, dyeing, bleaching, sizing, impregnating of fabrics
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06C—FINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
    • D06C11/00—Teasing, napping or otherwise roughening or raising pile of textile fabrics
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06C—FINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
    • D06C15/00—Calendering, pressing, ironing, glossing or glazing textile fabrics
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M15/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
    • D06M15/19—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with synthetic macromolecular compounds
    • D06M15/37—Macromolecular compounds obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • D06M15/643—Macromolecular compounds obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds containing silicon in the main chain
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P1/00—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed
    • D06P1/96—Dyeing characterised by a short bath ratio
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M2101/00—Chemical constitution of the fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, to be treated
    • D06M2101/02—Natural fibres, other than mineral fibres
    • D06M2101/04—Vegetal fibres
    • D06M2101/06—Vegetal fibres cellulosic
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M2101/00—Chemical constitution of the fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, to be treated
    • D06M2101/16—Synthetic fibres, other than mineral fibres
    • D06M2101/18—Synthetic fibres consisting of macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • D06M2101/26—Polymers or copolymers of unsaturated carboxylic acids or derivatives thereof
    • D06M2101/28—Acrylonitrile; Methacrylonitrile
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M2101/00—Chemical constitution of the fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, to be treated
    • D06M2101/16—Synthetic fibres, other than mineral fibres
    • D06M2101/30—Synthetic polymers consisting of macromolecular compounds obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • D06M2101/38—Polyurethanes
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M2200/00—Functionality of the treatment composition and/or properties imparted to the textile material
    • D06M2200/50—Modified hand or grip properties; Softening compositions
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2201/00—Cellulose-based fibres, e.g. vegetable fibres
    • D10B2201/20—Cellulose-derived artificial fibres
    • D10B2201/22—Cellulose-derived artificial fibres made from cellulose solutions
    • D10B2201/24—Viscose
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2321/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • D10B2321/10—Fibres made from polymers obtained by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds polymers of unsaturated nitriles, e.g. polyacrylonitrile, polyvinylidene cyanide
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2331/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
    • D10B2331/10—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyurethanes

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Chemical Kinetics & Catalysis (AREA)
  • Treatment Of Fiber Materials (AREA)

Abstract

The invention relates to the technical field of novel fabric preparation, in particular to a moisture-absorbing and heat-emitting light and warm double-sided napping fabric and a preparation process thereof. The invention selects and uses 40S/1 siro compact spinning 70% viscose regenerated cellulose fiber/30% bulk acrylic fiber yarn and 20D elastic fiber spandex to weave through unilateral tucking looping beading weaving, and prepares the ultra-thin light and warm double-sided napping thermal fabric with moisture absorption and heating functions and excellent thermal effect by matching with dyeing and finishing process and post-treatment napping process, wherein the core technology center is that unique moisture absorption and heating fiber proportioning spinning and light and breathable weaving process are adopted, and finally the unique double-sided napping process increases the fluffy feeling of the fabric so as to enhance the moisture absorption and heating performance and the thermal insulation rate.

Description

Moisture-absorbing and heating light and warm double-faced napping fabric and preparation process thereof
Technical Field
The invention relates to the technical field of novel fabric preparation, in particular to a moisture-absorbing and heat-emitting light and warm double-sided napping fabric and a preparation process thereof.
Background
In the traditional thinking, most people mention that the first impression of the thermal fabric is that the thicker the thermal fabric is, and the thermal fabric is more thermal, and when the thicker the thermal fabric is, the thermal fabric is more thermal: firstly, the finished clothes are excessively thick to look at a bloated feeling, and the weight of the finished clothes causes the consumers to feel tired when wearing the clothes due to the thickness, so that the movement of the human body is restrained, and the beautiful curve of the human body cannot be reflected fully; secondly because excessive thick, people can't be in time discharged at the heat that the motion in-process was worn, steam promptly, cause the clothes to glue the consequence of body, wait to calm down and have a cold sensation again for a long time, and thirdly most direct has increased the cost of manufacturing the ready-made clothes, in order to promote market competition, has to adopt cheap dyestuff again when the whole dyeing of back, and coarse dyeing process has directly polluted the environment, and indirect influence has reached people's physical and mental health problem. In order to experience light, thin and warm close-fitting wearing feeling, many domestic consumers have to buy the thermal underwear brand products imported from the United states, Europe and Japan through a cross-border purchasing way or directly.
Aiming at the problems of the traditional thermal fabric and the continuous improvement of the living standard of people, and the higher requirements of people on the thermal effect, comfort level and aesthetic appearance of the thermal fabric and physical and mental health, the department of China is cooperative with yarn cooperators, dyeing and finishing factories and sueding factories to develop a light and thin fabric with good thermal storage and insulation performance and the functions of moisture absorption and heating.
Disclosure of Invention
The invention aims to solve the problems of the traditional warm-keeping fabric, meet higher requirements of people on warm-keeping effect, comfort level, aesthetic appearance and the like of warm-keeping fabric wearing, and provide the moisture-absorbing, heat-emitting, light, thin and warm double-sided napping fabric which is light, thin, good in heat-storing and heat-preserving performance and has the moisture-absorbing and heat-emitting functions and the preparation process thereof.
The invention is realized by the following modes:
the moisture-absorbing and heat-emitting light and thin double-sided suede fabric is characterized in that the fabric is formed by weaving 40S/1 siro compact spinning yarns of 70% viscose regenerated cellulose fibers/30% bulk acrylic fibers and 20D elastic fiber spandex through a unilateral tucking looping bead-forming weaving method.
Further, the bulk acrylic fiber is a mixture of 2/3 bulk fiber and 1/3 common solid fiber.
Further, a sodium polyacrylate functional auxiliary agent is added into the spinning solution of the viscose regenerated cellulose fiber.
A preparation technology of a moisture-absorbing and heat-emitting light and thin double-sided suede fabric is characterized by comprising the following steps: comprises the following steps of (a) carrying out,
step 1: the treatment of weaving into cloth is carried out,
s1: weaving: selecting yarns of 40S/1 siro compact spinning 70% viscose regenerated cellulose fibers/30% bulked acrylic fibers and 20D elastic fiber spandex, weaving a gray cloth by a weft knitting circular knitting machine through a unilateral tucking and looping bead knitting method, wherein the bottom surface of the gray cloth is of a bead-hole structure, the cloth surface of the gray cloth is of a plain weave structure,
s2: sewing, cloth swinging and front fixing: seaming the grey cloth rolled on the opening edge according to the cloth head direction; the loosening treatment time is longer than 24 hours, and then the grey cloth dyeing specification is calculated according to the specification of a finished product; carrying out primary shaping treatment and processing on the gray cloth,
step 2, dyeing and finishing processing treatment is carried out,
s3: dyeing treatment: boiling cloth, dyeing cotton, peracid, soap boiling, acrylic fiber dyeing and softening;
boiling cloth: placing the gray cloth into a dye vat for cloth boiling treatment; boiling cloth, adding 1-3g/L degreaser, 4-5g/L softener in bath, 1-3g/L refined mould, 2-4g/L soda and 1-2g/L hydrogen peroxide into a dye vat, and heating to 98 ℃ for boiling cloth for 60 minutes; cooling, adding glacial acetic acid 0.8g/L, and boiling at 40 deg.C for 20 min for peracid treatment; finally, 0.1g/L of deoxygenizing enzyme is added for carrying out cold deoxygenization for 15 minutes;
dyeing cotton: putting the cloth subjected to the cloth boiling treatment into a first dye vat, and taking out the cloth after dyeing, wherein the dyeing bath ratio is 1: 3-4, adding 5-8g/L of dyeing agent, 0.5-3g/L of baking soda, 20-30g/L of soda, 0.5-2g/L of cotton leveling agent and 80-100g/L of refined salt into the dyeing solution in the first dye vat, and heating the dyeing solution from 40 ℃ to 60 ℃ for mixed dyeing for 60 minutes; adding glacial acetic acid 0.8g/L, performing peracid treatment at 40 ℃ for 10 minutes, and adding clear water for washing for 10 minutes;
boiling: performing soap cooking on the cotton-dyed gray cloth, taking out the soap cooking, adding 1-5g/L of soap oil and 2-4g/L of softening agent in bath, heating to 98 ℃, cooking for 10 minutes, taking out and cooling;
dyeing acrylic fibers: putting the cloth fished out by the alkaline cooking treatment into a second dye vat, and dyeing in a dyeing bath ratio of 1: 3-4, adding 5-8g/L of anhydrous sodium sulphate, 1-3g/L of cationic dye, 1-3g/L of acrylic anti-settling agent and 1-2g/L of glacial acetic acid into the dyeing liquor, and heating the dyeing liquor from 40 ℃ to 105 ℃ for mixed dyeing for 45 minutes; adding 1-2g/L of acrylic fiber slow soaping agent, and soaping for 20 minutes at 70 ℃;
over-softening: adding 0.1-0.5g/L of citric acid, 5-7g/L of acrylic fiber softener and 3-6g/L of raising agent into the softening liquid of the gray cloth after the dyeing acrylic fiber treatment is finished, and heating the softening liquid to 50 ℃ for soaking for 20 minutes. (ii) a
S4: and (3) finishing treatment: drying and secondary shaping, adding 1-3% of hydrophilic raising auxiliary agent into a water passing groove, reserving 8-10% of the product width, reserving the gram weight according to the gram weight of the finished product, rolling and rolling;
and step 3: double-sided napping, shearing and ironing,
the double-sided napping, shearing and ironing process comprises the following steps: front plucking → rough combing → rough scalding → rough shearing → front combing → front scalding → front shearing → front scalding → front plucking,
the front surface is used for picking hair, the big cylinder drum is modulated to 65 revolutions per minute, and the tension of the advancing cloth is modulated to 1-1.5N; the forward needle is regulated to 40 revolutions per minute, and the holding force of the hair-catching needle is regulated to 3-3.5G/L; the reverse needle is adjusted to 18 turns/m, and the holding force of the hair-catching needle is adjusted to 2.5-3G/L; the cloth feeding speed is adjusted to 19M/M; the tension of the back cloth is adjusted to 1-1.5N,
reverse cloth, rough surface picking, modulating 65 revolutions per minute by a large cylinder drum and modulating the tension of the advancing cloth by 0.9-1.2N; regulating the forward needle to 40 revolutions per minute, and regulating the holding force of the hair-catching needle to 3-3.5K G per liter; the reverse needle is adjusted to 18 turns/m, and the holding force of the hair-catching needle is adjusted to 2.5-3G/L; the cloth feeding speed is adjusted to 19M/M; the tension of the back cloth is adjusted to 1-1.5N,
carding rough surfaces: the rotating cylinder of the carding machine is adjusted to 75 revolutions/M, the cloth feeding speed is adjusted to 24 meters/M, the cloth feeding tension is adjusted to 1-1.5N, the left and right brush bristles are adjusted to 26 meters/M, the cloth discharging tension is adjusted to 1-1.5N, the cloth falling tension is adjusted to 1.3-1.8N, and the brush bristles and the cloth feeding surface form an included angle of 45 degrees,
rough surface scalding: the temperature of a front ironing roller and a rear ironing roller of the ironing machine is increased to 180-200 ℃, the cloth feeding speed is adjusted to 30M/M, the cloth feeding tension is adjusted to 1.5-1.8N, the cloth discharging tension is adjusted to 1-1.5N, the front ironing roller is adjusted to 500 turns/M, the rear ironing roller is adjusted to 550 turns/M, the ironing direction is opposite to the hair catching direction, the distance between the ironing roller and the cloth cover is set to 1-1.5cm,
rough surface shearing: adjusting cloth feeding speed of a shearing machine to 17.8M/M, adjusting cloth feeding tension to 1.5-2N, adjusting cloth discharging speed to 18.3M/M, adjusting cloth discharging tension to 1.3-1.8N, adjusting cloth falling tension to 1.3-1.5N, adjusting cloth falling speed to 24.6M/M, adjusting circular knife pressure to 8-8.5G/L, adjusting rotation speed to 1100 rpm, adjusting the included angle between a circular knife and a cloth feeding groove to 60-70 degrees, and setting the distance between the circular knife and a cloth cover to 0.5-0.7cm,
reverse cloth, front carding: the rotating cylinder of the carding machine is adjusted to 75 revolutions per minute, the cloth feeding speed is adjusted to 24 meters per minute, the cloth feeding tension is adjusted to 1-1.5N, the left brush and the right brush are adjusted to 26 meters per minute, the cloth discharging tension is adjusted to 1-1.5N, the cloth falling tension is adjusted to 1.3-1.8N, and an included angle of 45 degrees is formed between the brush bristles and the cloth feeding surface,
front face scalding: the temperature of the front ironing roller and the temperature of the rear ironing roller are both increased to 180-200 ℃, the cloth feeding speed is adjusted to 30M/M, the cloth feeding tension is adjusted to 1.6-1.9N, the cloth discharging tension is adjusted to 1-1.5N, the front ironing roller is adjusted to 500 turns/M, the rear ironing roller is adjusted to 550 turns/M, the ironing direction is opposite to the hair catching direction, the distance between the ironing roller and the cloth cover is set to 1-1.5cm,
shearing on the front side: the cloth feeding speed is adjusted to 17.8M/M, the cloth feeding tension is adjusted to 1.6-2N, the cloth discharging speed is adjusted to 18.3M/M, the cloth discharging tension is adjusted to 1.5-2N, the cloth falling tension is adjusted to 1.3-1.7N, the cloth falling speed is adjusted to 24.6M/M, the pressure of a circular knife is adjusted to 8-8.5G/L, the rotating speed is adjusted to 1100 r/M, the included angle between the circular knife and a cloth feeding groove is adjusted to 60-70 degrees, the distance between the circular knife and a cloth cover is set to 0.4-0.6cm,
front face scalding: the temperature of the front ironing roller and the temperature of the rear ironing roller are both increased to 180-200 ℃, the cloth feeding speed is adjusted to 30M/M, the cloth feeding tension is adjusted to 1.6-1.9N, the cloth discharging tension is adjusted to 1-1.5N, the front ironing roller is adjusted to 500 turns/M, the rear ironing roller is adjusted to 550 turns/M, the ironing direction is opposite to the hair catching direction, the distance between the ironing roller and the cloth cover is set to 0.5-0.7cm,
trimming the front side: smoothing, adjusting cloth feeding speed to 17.8M/M, adjusting cloth feeding tension to 1.6-2N, cloth discharging speed to 18.3M/M, cloth discharging tension to 1.5-2N, cloth falling tension to 1.3-1.5N, cloth falling speed to 24.6M/M, circular knife pressure to 8-8.5G/L, rotating speed to 1100 r/M, circular knife and cloth feeding groove to form an included angle of 60-70 degrees, and distance between circular knife and cloth cover is set at 0.4-0.6cm
And 4, step 4: and (3) shaping a finished product, adding 1-2% of hydrophilic silicone oil handfeel auxiliary agent during shaping, drying and rolling to finish the preparation.
In the preparation process of the moisture-absorbing and heat-emitting light and thin double-sided suede fabric, in the step 1, the needle arrangement mode of the single-side tucking stitch bead ground knitting method of S1 is a first needle dial triangle 1 needle stitch 2 needle stitch; and (3) knitting by using a second path of dial triangle 1 needle tuck 2 needles.
In the process for preparing the moisture-absorbing and heat-emitting light and thin double-sided suede fabric, the dyeing agent of the dyeing solution completely falls at 40 ℃ in the step of dyeing cotton of S3 in the step 1, and the baking soda, the soda and the refined salt completely fall at 60 ℃.
In the step of dyeing acrylic fiber in the step of S3 in the step 1, anhydrous sodium sulphate and an acrylic fiber anti-settling agent are added when the temperature of the dyeing liquid is 40 ℃, and a cationic dyeing agent is added when the temperature of the dyeing liquid reaches 70 ℃.
Compared with the prior art, the moisture-absorbing and heating light and warm double-sided napping fabric and the preparation process thereof provided by the invention have the following beneficial effects:
① viscose fiber has excellent moisture absorption effect, can solve the problem of stuffy and airtight fabric, acrylic fiber has excellent heat storage and heat preservation effect, and spinning the two can highlight the moisture absorption and heat preservation functions of the product, wherein the acrylic fiber adopts bulked acrylic fiber, has large shrinkage, good elasticity and high fluffy feeling, and most importantly, similar fabric products with the heat preservation rate reaching 30% in the market are used as comparison, the gram weight of the product is 200g/cm2 on average, and the gram weight of the similar heat preservation fabric is more than 300g/cm 2.
② the product has thin cloth, good body shape, and good air permeability.
③ products adopt a low bath ratio mode for dyeing and finishing, are environment-friendly and energy-saving, have good environmental benefit, and are advocated by corresponding national green and environmental protection.
④ the product is added with independently developed hydrophilic auxiliary agent when being shaped, and the hygroscopic heating rate is higher.
⑤ product adopts the double-sided sanding and sanding post-treatment process independently developed by the company, has higher heat retention performance, comfortable body feeling and fluffy and soft texture.
The novel fabric research and development relates to four fields of yarn development, weaving process, dyeing and finishing process and post-treatment sanding, and the development process comprises the following steps: the yarn adopts 40S/1 siro compact spinning 70% viscose regenerated cellulose fiber/30% bulk acrylic fiber matched with 20D elastic fiber spandex; weaving a gray cloth with excellent air permeability by a unilateral tucking looping bead-ground weaving method; the dyeing is matched with an energy-saving, environment-friendly and efficient dyeing process, the sanding process adopts a unique high-technology double-sided grabbing, ironing and shearing process, and the four fields are perfectly matched and combined, so that the 200-gram-weight ultrathin double-sided sanding fabric with the functions of moisture absorption and heating and excellent warm-keeping effect is developed. The core technology center is that a unique moisture absorption heating fiber proportioning spinning and a light, thin and breathable weaving process are adopted, and finally the unique double-sided sanding process increases the fluffy feeling of the fabric so as to enhance the moisture absorption heating performance and the heat preservation rate of the fabric.
Drawings
FIG. 1 is a comparison graph of the warming function of a common warming fabric of the invention and a warming fabric prepared by the process of the invention;
FIG. 2 is a needle bar diagram of the single-sided tuck-stitch beaded weaving of the present invention;
FIG. 3 is a structural view of the fabric knitting method of the present invention with single-sided tuck stitch bead ground knitting.
Detailed Description
To further clarify the objects, features and functions of the present invention, a review board will be provided by referring to the following detailed description of the invention in which:
the invention relates to a moisture-absorbing and heating light and thin double-sided suede fabric which is characterized in that the fabric is formed by weaving 40S/1 siro compact spinning yarns of 70% viscose regenerated cellulose fibers/30% bulk acrylic fibers and 20D elastic fiber spandex through a unilateral tucking looping beading weaving method.
Furthermore, the bulk acrylic fiber adopts the mixture of 2/3 bulk fiber and 1/3 common solid fiber, and the acrylic fiber part of the yarn adopts the combination of 2/3 bulk fiber and 1/3 common solid fiber. The bulk acrylic fiber is obtained by drawing and quenching common acrylic fiber by utilizing the thermal elasticity of acrylic fiber. The high-stretch acrylic fiber and the common acrylic fiber are blended together to be spun into bulked yarn with better bulkiness and strong wool feeling after high-temperature treatment.
The adopted yarns are characterized by larger shrinkage performance than common yarns, good elasticity and sufficient fluffy feeling, and through the blank weaving process, finishing auxiliary agents are added during dyeing and finishing post-treatment and are matched with extraction treatment for upgrading double-sided napping, so that the fluffy degree effect of the prepared fabric is more obviously reflected, the finished fabric can reach the thick feeling of about 250 g fabric, but the actual gram weight is only 200g, and the heat-insulating effect is far higher than that of common heat-insulating products.
Further, a sodium polyacrylate functional auxiliary agent is added into the spinning solution of the viscose regenerated cellulose fiber.
The fabric adopts viscose regenerated cellulose fiber, the hygroscopicity of the viscose is the highest among common chemical fibers, the fabric meets the physiological requirements of human skin, and the fabric has the characteristics of smoothness, coolness, ventilation, static resistance, ultraviolet resistance, gorgeous color, good dyeing fastness and the like.
The viscose used by the yarn is prepared by adding the sodium polyacrylate functional auxiliary agent with the moisture absorption and heating functions into the viscose spinning solution, so that the cross section and the vertical section of the original viscose are changed to a certain extent, and the moisture absorption of the viscose in the yarn is improved.
And (3) detecting the quality of the yarn:
Figure BDA0002293543500000061
table 1: yarn quality testing result table
Figure BDA0002293543500000062
Table 2: comparison table for moisture absorption heat rate ratios of different component ratios of 40S/1RA
Through detection, each index of the yarn can meet the use of a high-precision and unconventional tissue weaving structure and reach a theoretically ideal moisture absorption and heat generation index, and the data in the table 2 can obtain that the yarn which selects 40S/1 siro compact spinning 70% viscose regenerated cellulose fiber/30% bulk acrylic fiber can reach the highest temperature rise value.
A preparation technology of a moisture-absorbing and heat-emitting light and thin double-sided suede fabric is characterized by comprising the following steps: comprises the following steps
Step 1: the treatment of weaving into cloth is carried out,
s1: weaving: selecting 40S/1 siro compact spinning 70% viscose regenerated cellulose fiber/30% bulked acrylic fiber yarn and 20D elastic fiber spandex, weaving the yarns into a gray cloth by a 34' X28G German MAI Ye weft knitting circular knitting machine through a unilateral tucking and looping bead knitting method, wherein the bottom surface of the gray cloth is of a bead-eye structure, the cloth surface of the gray cloth is of a plain weave structure,
s2: sewing, cloth swinging and front fixing: seaming the grey cloth rolled on the opening edge according to the cloth head direction; the loosening treatment time is longer than 24 hours, and then the grey cloth dyeing specification is calculated according to the specification of a finished product; carrying out primary shaping treatment and processing on the gray cloth,
step 2, dyeing and finishing processing treatment is carried out,
s3: dyeing treatment: boiling cloth, dyeing cotton, peracid, soap boiling, acrylic fiber dyeing and softening;
boiling cloth: placing the gray cloth into a dye vat for cloth boiling treatment; boiling cloth, adding 1-3g/L degreaser, 4-5g/L softener in bath, 1-3g/L refined mould, 2-4g/L soda and 1-2g/L hydrogen peroxide into a dye vat, and heating to 98 ℃ for boiling cloth for 60 minutes; cooling, adding glacial acetic acid 0.8g/L, and boiling at 40 deg.C for 20 min for peracid treatment; finally, 0.1g/L of deoxygenizing enzyme is added for carrying out cold deoxygenization for 15 minutes;
dyeing cotton: putting the cloth subjected to the cloth boiling treatment into a first dye vat, and taking out the cloth after dyeing, wherein the dyeing bath ratio is 1: 3-4, adding 5-8g/L of dyeing agent, 0.5-3g/L of baking soda, 20-30g/L of soda, 0.5-2g/L of cotton leveling agent and 80-100g/L of refined salt into the dyeing solution in the first dye vat, and heating the dyeing solution from 40 ℃ to 60 ℃ for mixed dyeing for 60 minutes; adding glacial acetic acid 0.8g/L, performing peracid treatment at 40 ℃ for 10 minutes, and adding clear water for washing for 10 minutes;
boiling: performing soap cooking on the cotton-dyed gray cloth, taking out the soap cooking, adding 1-5g/L of soap oil and 2-4g/L of softening agent in bath, heating to 98 ℃, cooking for 10 minutes, taking out and cooling;
dyeing acrylic fibers: putting the cloth fished out by the alkaline cooking treatment into a second dye vat, and dyeing in a dyeing bath ratio of 1: 3-4, adding 5-8g/L of anhydrous sodium sulphate, 1-3g/L of cationic dye, 1-3g/L of acrylic anti-settling agent and 1-2g/L of glacial acetic acid into the dyeing liquor, and heating the dyeing liquor from 40 ℃ to 105 ℃ for mixed dyeing for 45 minutes; adding 1-2g/L of acrylic fiber slow soaping agent, and soaping for 20 minutes at 70 ℃;
over-softening: adding 0.1-0.5g/L of citric acid, 5-7g/L of acrylic fiber softener and 3-6g/L of raising agent into the fabric blank after the dyeing of acrylic fibers, heating the softener to 50 ℃, and continuously soaking for 20 minutes;
s4: and (3) finishing treatment: drying and secondary shaping, adding 1-3% of hydrophilic fluffing auxiliary agent into a water passing groove, reserving 8-10% of the product width, reserving the gram weight according to the gram weight of the product, and finally rolling and coiling to prepare for napping post-treatment;
and step 3: double-sided napping, shearing and ironing,
the double-sided napping, shearing and ironing process comprises the following steps: front plucking → rough combing → rough scalding → rough shearing → front combing → front scalding → front shearing → front scalding → front plucking,
the front surface is used for picking hair, the big cylinder drum is modulated to 65 revolutions per minute, and the tension of the advancing cloth is modulated to 1-1.5N; the forward needle is regulated to 40 revolutions per minute, and the holding force of the hair-catching needle is regulated to 3-3.5G/L; the reverse needle is adjusted to 18 turns/m, and the holding force of the hair-catching needle is adjusted to 2.5-3G/L; the cloth feeding speed is adjusted to 19M/M; the rear cloth outlet tension is adjusted to be 1-1.5N, and the cloth inlet tension and the grabbing force of the grabbing needle can be properly adjusted according to the softness of the cloth hand feeling of the dyeing factory due to the fact that the grabbing wool effect and the added softening oil during dyeing of the dyeing factory are greatly related, the adjustment range is controlled to be about 1% -1.5%,
reverse cloth, rough surface picking, modulating 65 revolutions per minute by a large cylinder drum and modulating the tension of the advancing cloth by 0.9-1.2N; regulating the forward needle to 40 revolutions per minute, and regulating the holding force of the hair-catching needle to 3-3.5K G per liter; the reverse needle is adjusted to 18 turns/m, and the holding force of the hair-catching needle is adjusted to 2.5-3G/L; the cloth feeding speed is adjusted to 19M/M; the rear cloth outlet tension is adjusted to be 1-1.5N, because the hair catching effect has great relation with the softening oil added in the dyeing factory during dyeing, the data can be properly adjusted according to the softness of the cloth hand feeling of the dyeing factory to the cloth inlet tension and the gripping force of the hair catching needle, the adjustment range is controlled to be about 1-1.5 percent,
carding rough surfaces: the rotating cylinder of the carding machine is adjusted to 75 revolutions/M, the cloth feeding speed is adjusted to 24 meters/M, the cloth feeding tension is adjusted to 1-1.5N, the left and right brush bristles are adjusted to 26 meters/M, the cloth discharging tension is adjusted to 1-1.5N, the cloth falling tension is adjusted to 1.3-1.8N, and the brush bristles and the cloth feeding surface form an included angle of 45 degrees,
rough surface scalding: the temperature of a front ironing roller and a rear ironing roller of the ironing machine is increased to 180-200 ℃, the cloth feeding speed is adjusted to 30M/M, the cloth feeding tension is adjusted to 1.5-1.8N, the cloth discharging tension is adjusted to 1-1.5N, the front ironing roller is adjusted to 500 turns/M, the rear ironing roller is adjusted to 550 turns/M, the ironing direction is opposite to the hair catching direction, the distance between the ironing roller and the cloth cover is set to 1-1.5cm,
rough surface shearing: adjusting cloth feeding speed of a shearing machine to 17.8M/M, adjusting cloth feeding tension to 1.5-2N, adjusting cloth discharging speed to 18.3M/M, adjusting cloth discharging tension to 1.3-1.8N, adjusting cloth falling tension to 1.3-1.5N, adjusting cloth falling speed to 24.6M/M, adjusting circular knife pressure to 8-8.5G/L, adjusting rotation speed to 1100 rpm, adjusting the included angle between a circular knife and a cloth feeding groove to 60-70 degrees, and setting the distance between the circular knife and a cloth cover to 0.5-0.7cm,
reverse cloth, front carding: the rotating cylinder of the carding machine is adjusted to 75 revolutions per minute, the cloth feeding speed is adjusted to 24 meters per minute, the cloth feeding tension is adjusted to 1-1.5N, the left brush and the right brush are adjusted to 26 meters per minute, the cloth discharging tension is adjusted to 1-1.5N, the cloth falling tension is adjusted to 1.3-1.8N, and an included angle of 45 degrees is formed between the brush bristles and the cloth feeding surface,
front face scalding: the temperature of the front ironing roller and the temperature of the rear ironing roller are both increased to 180-200 ℃, the cloth feeding speed is adjusted to 30M/M, the cloth feeding tension is adjusted to 1.6-1.9N, the cloth discharging tension is adjusted to 1-1.5N, the front ironing roller is adjusted to 500 turns/M, the rear ironing roller is adjusted to 550 turns/M, the ironing direction is opposite to the hair catching direction, the distance between the ironing roller and the cloth cover is set to 1-1.5cm,
shearing on the front side: the cloth feeding speed is adjusted to 17.8M/M, the cloth feeding tension is adjusted to 1.6-2N, the cloth discharging speed is adjusted to 18.3M/M, the cloth discharging tension is adjusted to 1.5-2N, the cloth falling tension is adjusted to 1.3-1.7N, the cloth falling speed is adjusted to 24.6M/M, the pressure of a circular knife is adjusted to 8-8.5G/L, the rotating speed is adjusted to 1100 r/M, the included angle between the circular knife and a cloth feeding groove is adjusted to 60-70 degrees, the distance between the circular knife and a cloth cover is set to 0.4-0.6cm,
front face scalding: the temperature of the front ironing roller and the temperature of the rear ironing roller are both increased to 180-200 ℃, the cloth feeding speed is adjusted to 30M/M, the cloth feeding tension is adjusted to 1.6-1.9N, the cloth discharging tension is adjusted to 1-1.5N, the front ironing roller is adjusted to 500 turns/M, the rear ironing roller is adjusted to 550 turns/M, the ironing direction is opposite to the hair catching direction, the distance between the ironing roller and the cloth cover is set to 0.5-0.7cm,
trimming the front side: smoothing, adjusting cloth feeding speed to 17.8M/M, adjusting cloth feeding tension to 1.6-2N, cloth discharging speed to 18.3M/M, cloth discharging tension to 1.5-2N, cloth falling tension to 1.3-1.5N, cloth falling speed to 24.6M/M, circular knife pressure to 8-8.5G/L, rotating speed to 1100 r/M, circular knife and cloth feeding groove to form an included angle of 60-70 degrees, and distance between circular knife and cloth cover is set at 0.4-0.6cm
And 4, step 4: and (3) shaping a finished product, adding 1-2% of hydrophilic silicone oil handfeel auxiliary agent during shaping, drying and rolling to finish the preparation.
In the preparation process of the moisture-absorbing and heat-emitting light and thin double-sided suede fabric, in the step 1, the needle arrangement mode of the single-side tucking stitch bead ground knitting method of S1 is a first needle dial triangle 1 needle stitch 2 needle stitch; and (3) knitting by using a second path of dial triangle 1 needle tuck 2 needles.
In the process for preparing the moisture-absorbing and heat-emitting light and thin double-sided suede fabric, the dyeing agent of the dyeing solution completely falls at 40 ℃ in the step of dyeing cotton of S3 in the step 1, and the baking soda, the soda and the refined salt completely fall at 60 ℃.
In the step of dyeing acrylic fiber in the step of S3 in the step 1, anhydrous sodium sulphate and an acrylic fiber anti-settling agent are added when the temperature of the dyeing liquid is 40 ℃, and a cationic dyeing agent is added when the temperature of the dyeing liquid reaches 70 ℃.
Example (b):
a preparation process of a moisture-absorbing and heat-emitting light and thin double-sided suede fabric comprises the following steps
Step 1: the treatment of weaving into cloth is carried out,
s1: weaving: selecting yarns of 40S/1 siro compact spinning 70% viscose regenerated cellulose fibers/30% bulked acrylic fibers and 20D elastic fiber spandex, weaving the yarns and the 20D elastic fiber spandex into a gray fabric by a weft knitting circular knitting machine through a unilateral tucking and looping bead ground weaving method, wherein the bottom surface of the gray fabric is of a bead-hole structure, and the cloth surface of the gray fabric is of a plain weave structure, the novel fabric adopts a unilateral tucking and looping bead pattern unilateral tucking bead ground weaving method, the woven fabric is thinner, the bottom surface is of a bead-hole structure, and the cloth surface is of a plain weave structure, so that the limitation of the traditional thermal fabric in a bilateral weaving structure is broken, and the bead ground structure has the advantages that: the cloth body is thin, the manufacturing cost of the ready-made clothes is reduced virtually, and the cloth body is thin: the body-beautifying and shaping instrument can perfectly show the beauty of a human body curve, and the third is that: the gas permeability is good, is favorable to the diffusion of the vapor that the consumer produced in the motion process, can not appear gluing the sensation of body, and the intensive plain weave of face can not let the excessive loss of heat again, has kind cold sensation after making the consumer rest for a period of time after the motion, its four: after the moisture absorption, the napping is upgraded, an air layer is formed virtually, the heat is firmly locked in the air layer during the moisture absorption process, the heating and warming effects are achieved,
s2: sewing, cloth swinging and front fixing: seaming the grey cloth rolled on the opening edge according to the cloth head direction; the loosening treatment time is longer than 24 hours, and then the grey cloth dyeing specification is calculated according to the specification of a finished product; carrying out primary shaping treatment and processing on the gray cloth,
step 2, dyeing and finishing processing treatment is carried out,
s3: dyeing treatment: boiling cloth, dyeing cotton, peracid, soap boiling, acrylic fiber dyeing and softening;
boiling cloth: placing the gray cloth into a dye vat for cloth boiling treatment; boiling cloth, adding 1g/L degreaser, 4g/L softener in bath, 1g/L refined mould, 2g/L soda and 1g/L hydrogen peroxide into a dye vat, and heating to 98 ℃ for boiling cloth for 60 minutes; cooling, adding glacial acetic acid 0.8g/L, and boiling at 40 deg.C for 20 min for peracid treatment; finally, 0.1g/L of deoxygenizing enzyme is added for carrying out cold deoxygenization for 15 minutes;
dyeing cotton: putting the cloth subjected to the cloth boiling treatment into a first dye vat, and taking out the cloth after dyeing, wherein the dyeing bath ratio is 1:4, adding 6.5g/L of staining agent, 0.5g/L of baking soda, 20g/L of soda, 0.5g/L of cotton leveling agent and 80g/L of refined salt into the staining solution in the first dye vat, and heating the staining solution from 40 ℃ to 60 ℃ for mixed staining for 60 minutes; adding glacial acetic acid 0.8g/L, performing peracid treatment at 40 ℃ for 10 minutes, and adding clear water for washing for 10 minutes;
boiling: performing soap cooking on the cotton-dyed gray cloth, taking out the soap cooking, adding 1g/L of soap oil and 2g/L of softening agent in bath, heating to 98 ℃, cooking for 10 minutes, taking out and cooling;
dyeing acrylic fibers: putting the fabric subjected to alkaline cooking treatment into a second dye vat, and dyeing in a dyeing bath ratio of 1:4, adding 5g/L of anhydrous sodium sulphate, 1g/L of cationic dye, 1g/L of acrylic anti-settling agent and 1g/L of glacial acetic acid into the dyeing liquor, and heating the dyeing liquor from 40 ℃ to 105 ℃ for mixed dyeing for 45 minutes; adding 1g/L of acrylic fiber slow soaping agent, and carrying out soaping treatment at 70 ℃ for 20 minutes;
over-softening: 0.1g/L of citric acid, 5g/L of acrylic fiber softener and 3g/L of raising agent are added into the softening liquid of the gray cloth after the dyeing of the acrylic fibers is finished, and the softening liquid is heated to 50 ℃ and is soaked for 20 minutes continuously.
S4: and (3) finishing treatment: drying and secondary shaping, adding 1-3% of hydrophilic fluffing auxiliary agent into a water passing groove, reserving 8-10% of the product width, reserving the gram weight according to the gram weight of the product, and finally rolling and coiling to prepare for napping post-treatment;
and step 3: double-sided napping, shearing and ironing,
the double-sided napping, shearing and ironing process comprises the following steps: front plucking → rough combing → rough scalding → rough shearing → front combing → front scalding → front shearing → front scalding → front plucking,
the front surface is used for picking hair, the big cylinder drum is modulated to 65 revolutions per minute, and the tension of the advancing cloth is modulated to 1-1.5N; the forward needle is modulated to 40 revolutions per minute, and the holding force of the hair-catching needle is modulated to 3G/L; the reverse needle is adjusted to 18 turns/m, and the holding force of the hair-catching needle is adjusted to 2.5G/L; the cloth feeding speed is adjusted to 19M/M; the tension of the back cloth is adjusted to 1-1.5N,
reverse cloth, rough surface picking, modulating 65 revolutions per minute by a large cylinder drum and modulating the tension of the advancing cloth by 0.994N; regulating the forward needle to 40 revolutions per minute, and regulating the grasping force of the hair grasping needle to 3K G per liter; the reverse needle is adjusted to 18 turns/m, and the holding force of the hair-catching needle is adjusted to 2.5G/L; the cloth feeding speed is adjusted to 19M/M; the tension of the back cloth is adjusted to 1-1.5N,
carding rough surfaces: the rotating cylinder of the carding machine is adjusted to 75 revolutions per square meter (RPM), the cloth feeding speed is adjusted to 24 meters per square meter (M), the cloth feeding tension is adjusted to 1.03N, the left and right brush bristles are adjusted to 26 meters per square meter (M), the cloth discharging tension is adjusted to 1.035N, the cloth falling tension is adjusted to 1.4N, the brush bristles and the cloth feeding surface form an included angle of 45 degrees, so that the direction of the combed bristles is perpendicular to the cloth surface, the later ironing and shearing process is facilitated, and the direction of the combed bristles and the direction of the grabbed bristles are opposite to the direction of coarse-faced ironing: the temperatures of a front ironing roller and a rear ironing roller of the ironing machine are both increased to 180 ℃ and 200 ℃, the cloth feeding speed is adjusted to 30M/M, the cloth feeding tension is adjusted to 1.64N, the cloth discharging tension is adjusted to 1.1N, the front ironing roller is adjusted to 500 r/M, the rear ironing roller is adjusted to 550 r/M, the ironing direction is opposite to the hair catching direction, the distance between the ironing roller and the cloth surface is set to 1-1.5cm, the cloth surface hairiness can be changed into one piece and is vertical to the cloth surface by the thermal static principle, the rear hair shearing process is more convenient, the situation that the ironing roller directly contacts the cloth surface to scald the cloth surface and iron the cloth surface hairiness is flat is avoided, and the trouble is caused to the rear hair shearing,
rough surface shearing: and (3) smoothing, adjusting the cloth feeding speed of the shearing machine to 17.8M/M, adjusting the cloth feeding tension to 1.7N, adjusting the cloth discharging speed to 18.3M/M, adjusting the cloth discharging tension to 1.5N and adjusting the cloth dropping tension to 1.38N. The cloth falling speed is adjusted to 24.6M/M, the pressure of a circular knife is adjusted to 8G/L, the rotating speed is adjusted to 1100 r/M, the included angle between the circular knife and a cloth feeding groove is adjusted to 60-70 degrees, the distance between the circular knife and the cloth cover is set to 0.5-0.7cm, long wool with the wool length of 0.5 cm-0.7 cm is reserved, the long wool is used as the bottom surface and is used as the standard for distinguishing the front surface from the bottom surface,
reverse cloth, front carding: the revolving drum of the carding machine is adjusted to 75 Revolutions Per Minute (RPM), the cloth feeding speed is adjusted to 24 meters per minute (M), the cloth feeding tension is adjusted to 1.03N, the left brush and the right brush are adjusted to 26 meters per minute (M), the cloth discharging tension is adjusted to 1.035N, the cloth falling tension is adjusted to 1.4N, the brush brushes and the cloth feeding cloth cover form an included angle of 45 degrees, thus the direction of the wool after carding is approximately vertical to the cloth cover, the subsequent ironing and shearing processes are convenient, the direction of the wool carding and the direction of the wool grabbing are opposite,
front face scalding: the temperatures of the front ironing roller and the rear ironing roller are both increased to 195 ℃, the cloth feeding speed is adjusted to 30M/M, the cloth feeding tension is adjusted to 1.64N, the cloth discharging tension is adjusted to 1.1N, the front ironing roller is adjusted to 500 r/M, the rear ironing roller is adjusted to 550 r/M, the ironing direction is opposite to the hair catching direction, the distance between the ironing roller and the cloth cover is set to be 1-1.5cm, the cloth cover hairiness can become one by one and is vertical to the cloth cover due to the thermal static principle, the rear hair shearing process is more convenient, the trouble that the ironing roller directly contacts the cloth cover to iron the cloth cover and iron the cloth cover hairiness to be flat is avoided, and the rear hair shearing is caused,
shearing on the front side: and (3) smoothing the wool, adjusting the cloth feeding speed to 17.8M/M, adjusting the cloth feeding tension to 1.7N, adjusting the cloth discharging speed to 18.3M/M, adjusting the cloth discharging tension to 1.5N and adjusting the cloth dropping tension to 1.38N. The cloth falling speed is adjusted to 24.6M/M, the pressure of a circular knife is adjusted to 8G/L, the rotating speed is adjusted to 1100 r/M, the included angle between the circular knife and a cloth feeding groove is adjusted to 60-70 degrees, the distance between the circular knife and the cloth cover is set to 0.4-0.6cm, short wool with the wool length of 0.4-0.6cm is reserved, the short wool is reserved as the front side, the method is the standard for distinguishing the front side from the bottom side,
front face scalding: the temperatures of the front ironing roller and the rear ironing roller are both increased to 195 ℃, the cloth feeding speed is adjusted to 30M/M, the cloth feeding tension is adjusted to 1.64N, the cloth discharging tension is adjusted to 1.1N, the front ironing roller is adjusted to 500 r/M, the rear ironing roller is adjusted to 550 r/M, the ironing direction is opposite to the hair catching direction, the distance between the ironing roller and the cloth cover is set to be 0.5-0.7cm, the cloth cover hair feather can be changed into one piece and is vertical to the cloth cover to be more convenient for the subsequent hair shearing process due to the thermal static principle, the situation that the ironing roller directly contacts the cloth cover to iron the cloth cover and flatten the cloth cover hair feather to cause the subsequent hair shearing is avoided, the secondary hair ironing mainly sucks away the last uncut cloth cover and some floating hair feathers, and the effect of increasing the brightness of the hair is achieved at the same time,
trimming the front side: smoothing hair, and quickly adjusting the cloth feeding speed to 17.8M/M. The cloth feeding tension is adjusted to 1.7N, the cloth discharging speed is adjusted to 18.3 m/m, the cloth discharging tension is adjusted to 1.5N, and the cloth falling tension is adjusted to 1.38N. The cloth falling speed is adjusted to 24.6M/M, the pressure of a circular knife is adjusted to 8G/L, the rotating speed is adjusted to 1100M, the included angle between the circular knife and a cloth feeding groove is adjusted to 60-70 degrees, the distance between the circular knife and the cloth cover is set to be 0.4-0.6cm, the process can be called wool trimming, and the fluff which is not cut on the front surface for the first time and is slightly long is trimmed again, so that the cloth cover is brighter and more tidy.
And 4, step 4: and (5) shaping the finished product, and adding a hydrophilic silicone oil handfeel auxiliary agent during shaping to finish the preparation.
The prepared fabric has multiple innovative advantages of being light, thin, warm, fluffy, hygroscopic, exothermic, excellent in heat retention and the like, accords with the current fabric fashion trend, has all-round characteristics of functional diversity, color freedom, health, comfort and the like, is a high-quality innovative product with independent property rights, can fill the vacancy of the same type of products in the market, can drive the development of local clothing industry, and promotes the technical research and development of the fabric industry. The preparation process of the moisture-absorbing and heating double-side suede-ground fabric can successfully form industrialized production, create good economic benefit for bearing units and drive local economic development. The economic benefit can further promote the research and development activities of the company, form virtuous circle and enhance the technical innovation capability and the research and development level of the company.
The novel fabric prepared by the invention relates to four fields of yarn development, weaving process, dyeing and finishing process and post-treatment napping, and the four fields are perfectly matched and combined, so that the novel ultrathin light and warm double-sided napping with the functions of moisture absorption and heating is developed, and the thermal fabric with excellent thermal effect is developed. The core technology is that spinning is carried out by adopting a unique fiber proportion, a light and thin breathable weaving process is adopted to form a lighter and thinner moisture absorption, heating and high heat preservation structure, and finally, the fluffy feeling of the fabric is increased by a double-sided sanding process which is independently developed, so that the moisture absorption, heating and heat preservation performance and the heat preservation rate of the fabric are enhanced.
The dyeing and finishing process is characterized in that a low-dose hydrophilic silicone oil environment-friendly hand feeling auxiliary agent is added during shaping, and the auxiliary agent is more biased to hydrophilic performance, so that the moisture absorption performance of the fabric is further improved. Meanwhile, a novel low bath ratio 1:4 method is selected for dyeing and finishing, and the low liquid ratio dyeing and finishing method saves water and reduces sewage discharge, and has good environmental benefits of energy conservation and environmental protection.
The fabric prepared by the invention has the following key technical indexes:
1. the product heat preservation rate is more than or equal to 30 percent, and similar heat preservation fabrics in the market need to have the gram weight of 300g/cm2The average gram weight of the fabric prepared by the process is 200g/cm2The heat retention rate can reach 30 percent.
2. The highest temperature rise rate of the product is more than or equal to 4.0 DEG C
3. The average temperature rise rate is more than or equal to 3.0 ℃ within 30min
The invention mainly aims at solving the key problems;
1. in the field of yarns, the proportion of viscose and acrylic fibers is very important, the viscose and acrylic fibers with different proportions are slightly adjusted, the heat preservation rate, the moisture absorption heating rate, the hand feeling, the fluffy feeling, the weight, the thickness, the dyeing property, the color sample, the color fastness and the like of the viscose and acrylic fibers can all change, and under the guidance of a scientific theory, a technician finds out a better proportion through continuous trial and repeat tests and adjustment, so that the performance of the novel fabric is superior to that of an imported fabric, and economic benefits are created and even the imported product is replaced.
2. The problem that the existing fabric processing technology structure for absorbing moisture and heating is complex relative to other textile structures is solved through a unilateral tucking and looping bead pattern tissue unilateral tucking and looping bead ground weaving method, and the characteristic that the finished product is light and thin in accordance is guaranteed.
3. The dyeing and finishing process is mainly characterized in that the hydrophilic silicone oil environment-friendly hand feeling auxiliary agent is prepared, and the proportion of the auxiliary agent is determined through a plurality of tests. The common auxiliary agent is a softening auxiliary agent, and the aim of the auxiliary agent is to make the cloth softer after being shaped. The process of the invention has the advantages that the woven cloth has light and thin characteristics, and the softness of the woven cloth can meet the requirements of consumers, so that the hydrophilic property of the product is enhanced by the hydrophilic silicone oil environment-friendly hand feeling auxiliary agent, the moisture absorption rate of the product is further improved, and the advantages of dryness, comfort and heat preservation are improved.
4. The sanding process mainly adopts double-sided napping, shearing and ironing, the thickness of the fabric can be increased from hand feeling, the air permeability of the textile fabric can be improved, and the heat preservation effect can be achieved.
It should be understood that the above description is only exemplary of the present invention, and is not intended to limit the scope of the present invention, so that modifications equivalent to the principles of the present invention are included in the scope of the present invention.

Claims (9)

1. The moisture-absorbing and heat-emitting light and thin double-sided suede fabric is characterized in that the fabric is formed by weaving 40S/1 siro compact spinning yarns of 70% viscose regenerated cellulose fibers/30% bulk acrylic fibers and 20D elastic fiber spandex through a unilateral tucking looping bead ground weaving method.
2. The moisture-absorbing and heat-emitting thin double-sided suede fabric as claimed in claim 1, wherein the bulk acrylic fiber is a blend of 2/3 bulk fiber and 1/3 common solid fiber.
3. The moisture-absorbing and heat-emitting light and thin double-sided suede fabric as claimed in claim 1, wherein a sodium polyacrylate functional auxiliary agent is added into the spinning solution of viscose regenerated cellulose fibers.
4. A preparation technology of a moisture-absorbing and heat-emitting light and thin double-sided suede fabric is characterized by comprising the following steps: comprises the following steps of (a) carrying out,
step 1: the treatment of weaving into cloth is carried out,
s1: weaving: selecting yarns of 40S/1 siro compact spinning 70% viscose regenerated cellulose fibers/30% bulked acrylic fibers and 20D elastic fiber spandex, weaving a gray cloth by a weft knitting circular knitting machine through a unilateral tucking and looping bead knitting method, wherein the bottom surface of the gray cloth is of a bead-hole structure, the cloth surface of the gray cloth is of a plain weave structure,
s2: sewing, cloth swinging and front fixing: seaming the grey cloth rolled on the opening edge according to the cloth head direction; the loosening treatment time is longer than 24 hours, and then the grey cloth dyeing specification is calculated according to the specification of a finished product; carrying out primary shaping treatment and processing on the gray cloth,
step 2, dyeing and finishing processing treatment is carried out,
s3: dyeing treatment: boiling cloth, dyeing cotton, peracid, soap boiling, acrylic fiber dyeing and softening;
s4: and (3) finishing treatment: drying and secondary shaping, adding 1-3% of hydrophilic raising auxiliary agent into a water passing groove, reserving 8-10% of the product width, reserving the gram weight according to the gram weight of the finished product, rolling and rolling;
and step 3: double-sided napping, shearing and ironing,
the double-sided napping, shearing and ironing process comprises the following steps: front plucking → rough combing → rough scalding → rough shearing → front combing → front scalding → front shearing → front scalding → front plucking,
and 4, step 4: and (3) shaping a finished product, adding 1-2% of hydrophilic silicone oil handfeel auxiliary agent during shaping, drying and rolling to finish the preparation.
5. The preparation process of the moisture-absorbing and heat-emitting light and thin double-sided suede fabric according to claim 4, wherein the S3 dyeing processing of the step 2 comprises the following steps of cloth boiling, cotton dyeing, peracid, kansui dyeing, acrylic fiber dyeing and over softening processing:
boiling cloth: placing the gray cloth into a dye vat for cloth boiling treatment; boiling cloth, adding 1-3g/L degreaser, 4-5g/L softener in bath, 1-3g/L refined mould, 2-4g/L soda and 1-2g/L hydrogen peroxide into a dye vat, and heating to 98 ℃ for boiling cloth for 60 minutes; cooling, adding glacial acetic acid 0.8g/L, and boiling at 40 deg.C for 20 min for peracid treatment; finally, 0.1g/L of deoxygenizing enzyme is added for carrying out cold deoxygenization for 15 minutes;
dyeing cotton: putting the cloth subjected to the cloth boiling treatment into a first dye vat, and taking out the cloth after dyeing, wherein the dyeing bath ratio is 1: 3-4, adding 5-8g/L of dyeing agent, 0.5-3g/L of baking soda, 20-30g/L of soda, 0.5-2g/L of cotton leveling agent and 80-100g/L of refined salt into the dyeing solution in the first dye vat, and heating the dyeing solution from 40 ℃ to 60 ℃ for mixed dyeing for 60 minutes; adding glacial acetic acid 0.8g/L, performing peracid treatment at 40 ℃ for 10 minutes, and adding clear water for washing for 10 minutes;
boiling: performing soap cooking on the cotton-dyed gray cloth, taking out the soap cooking, adding 1-5g/L of soap oil and 2-4g/L of softening agent in bath, heating to 98 ℃, cooking for 10 minutes, taking out and cooling;
dyeing acrylic fibers: putting the cloth fished out by the alkaline cooking treatment into a second dye vat, and dyeing in a dyeing bath ratio of 1: 3-4, adding 5-8g/L of anhydrous sodium sulphate, 1-3g/L of cationic dye, 1-3g/L of acrylic anti-settling agent and 1-2g/L of glacial acetic acid into the dyeing liquor, and heating the dyeing liquor from 40 ℃ to 105 ℃ for mixed dyeing for 45 minutes; adding 1-2g/L of acrylic fiber slow soaping agent, and carrying out soaping treatment at 70 ℃ for 20 minutes;
over-softening: adding 0.1-0.5g/L of citric acid, 5-7g/L of acrylic fiber softener and 3-6g/L of raising agent into the softening liquid of the gray cloth after the dyeing acrylic fiber treatment is finished, and heating the softening liquid to 50 ℃ for soaking for 20 minutes.
6. The preparation process of the moisture-absorbing and heat-emitting light and thin double-sided suede fabric according to claim 4, wherein the step 3: the double-sided napping, shearing and ironing processing steps are as follows:
the front surface is used for picking hair, the big cylinder drum is modulated to 65 revolutions per minute, and the tension of the advancing cloth is modulated to 1-1.5N; the forward needle is regulated to 40 revolutions per minute, and the holding force of the hair-catching needle is regulated to 3-3.5G/L; the reverse needle is adjusted to 18 turns/m, and the holding force of the hair-catching needle is adjusted to 2.5-3G/L; the cloth feeding speed is adjusted to 19M/M; the tension of the back cloth is adjusted to 1-1.5N,
reverse cloth, rough surface picking, modulating 65 revolutions per minute by a large cylinder drum and modulating the tension of the advancing cloth by 0.9-1.2N; regulating the forward needle to 40 revolutions per minute, and regulating the holding force of the hair-catching needle to 3-3.5K G per liter; the reverse needle is adjusted to 18 turns/m, and the holding force of the hair-catching needle is adjusted to 2.5-3G/L; the cloth feeding speed is adjusted to 19M/M; the tension of the back cloth is adjusted to 1-1.5N,
carding rough surfaces: the rotating cylinder of the carding machine is adjusted to 75 revolutions/M, the cloth feeding speed is adjusted to 24 meters/M, the cloth feeding tension is adjusted to 1-1.5N, the left and right brush brushes are adjusted to 26 meters/M, the cloth discharging tension is adjusted to 1-1.5N, the cloth falling tension is adjusted to 1.3-1.8N, and the brush bristles and the cloth feeding surface form an included angle of 45 degrees,
rough surface scalding: the temperature of a front ironing roller and a rear ironing roller of the ironing machine is increased to 180-200 ℃, the cloth feeding speed is adjusted to 30M/M, the cloth feeding tension is adjusted to 1.5-1.8N, the cloth discharging tension is adjusted to 1-1.5N, the front ironing roller is adjusted to 500 turns/M, the rear ironing roller is adjusted to 550 turns/M, the ironing direction is opposite to the hair catching direction, the distance between the ironing roller and the cloth cover is set to 1-1.5cm,
rough surface shearing: the cloth feeding speed of the wool shearing machine is adjusted to 17.8M/M, the cloth feeding tension is adjusted to 1.5-2N, the cloth discharging speed is adjusted to 18.3M/M, the cloth discharging tension is adjusted to 1.3-1.8N, the cloth falling tension is adjusted to 1.3-1.5N, the cloth falling speed is adjusted to 24.6M/M, the pressure of a circular knife is adjusted to 8-8.5G/L, the rotating speed is adjusted to 1100 r/M, the included angle between the circular knife and a cloth feeding groove is adjusted to 60-70 degrees, the distance between the circular knife and the cloth cover is set to 0.5-0.7cm,
reverse cloth, front carding: the rotating cylinder of the carding machine is adjusted to 75 revolutions/M, the cloth feeding speed is adjusted to 24 meters/M, the cloth feeding tension is adjusted to 1-1.5N, the left and right brush brushes are adjusted to 26 meters/M, the cloth discharging tension is adjusted to 1-1.5N, the cloth falling tension is adjusted to 1.3-1.8N, and the brush bristles and the cloth feeding surface form an included angle of 45 degrees,
front face scalding: the temperature of the front ironing roller and the temperature of the rear ironing roller are both increased to 180-200 ℃, the cloth feeding speed is adjusted to 30M/M, the cloth feeding tension is adjusted to 1.6-1.9N, the cloth discharging tension is adjusted to 1-1.5N, the front ironing roller is adjusted to 500 turns/M, the rear ironing roller is adjusted to 550 turns/M, the ironing direction is opposite to the hair catching direction, the distance between the ironing roller and the cloth cover is set to 1-1.5cm,
shearing on the front side: the cloth feeding speed is adjusted to 17.8M/M, the cloth feeding tension is adjusted to 1.6-2N, the cloth discharging speed is adjusted to 18.3M/M, the cloth discharging tension is adjusted to 1.5-2N, the cloth falling tension is adjusted to 1.3-1.7N, the cloth falling speed is adjusted to 24.6M/M, the pressure of a circular knife is adjusted to 8-8.5G/L, the rotating speed is adjusted to 1100 r/M, the included angle between the circular knife and a cloth feeding groove is adjusted to 60-70 degrees, the distance between the circular knife and a cloth cover is set to 0.4-0.6cm,
front face scalding: the temperature of the front ironing roller and the temperature of the rear ironing roller are both increased to 180-200 ℃, the cloth feeding speed is adjusted to 30M/M, the cloth feeding tension is adjusted to 1.6-1.9N, the cloth discharging tension is adjusted to 1-1.5N, the front ironing roller is adjusted to 500 turns/M, the rear ironing roller is adjusted to 550 turns/M, the ironing direction is opposite to the hair catching direction, the distance between the ironing roller and the cloth cover is set to 0.5-0.7cm,
trimming the front side: the cloth feeding speed is adjusted to 17.8M/M, the cloth feeding tension is adjusted to 1.6-2N, the cloth discharging speed is 18.3M/M, the cloth discharging tension is adjusted to 1.5-2N, the cloth falling tension is adjusted to 1.3-1.5N, the cloth falling speed is adjusted to 24.6M/M, the pressure of a circular knife is adjusted to 8-8.5G/L, the rotating speed is adjusted to 1100 r/M, the included angle between the circular knife and a cloth feeding groove is adjusted to 60-70 degrees, and the distance between the circular knife and a cloth cover is set to 0.4-0.6 cm.
7. The process for preparing the moisture-absorbing and heat-emitting light and thin double-sided suede fabric according to claim 4, wherein the unilateral tuck stitch bead ground knitting needle arrangement mode of S1 in step 1 is a first-way dial triangle 1 needle loop 2 needle loop; and (3) knitting by using a second path of dial triangle 1 needle tuck 2 needles.
8. The process for preparing the moisture-absorbing and heat-emitting light and thin double-sided suede fabric according to claim 4, wherein the dyeing agent of the dyeing liquid completely falls at 40 ℃ in the step of dyeing cotton of S3 in the step 1, and then salt is added for 3 times, 3-6 minutes each time, 2 times of adding soda and soda, 2 times of adding soda and 2-4 minutes each time, and the baking soda, the soda and refined salt completely fall at 60 ℃.
9. The process for preparing the moisture-absorbing and heat-emitting light and thin double-sided sanded fabric according to claim 4, wherein anhydrous sodium sulphate and an acrylic anti-settling agent are added when the temperature of a dyeing solution is 40 ℃ in the acrylic dyeing step of S3 in the step 1, and a cationic dyeing agent is added when the temperature of the dyeing solution reaches 70 ℃.
CN201911190887.4A 2019-11-28 2019-11-28 Moisture-absorbing and heating light and warm double-faced napping fabric and preparation process thereof Pending CN110923920A (en)

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