CN110742822B - Skin whitening anti-aging composition, whitening anti-aging cream containing same and preparation method thereof - Google Patents
Skin whitening anti-aging composition, whitening anti-aging cream containing same and preparation method thereof Download PDFInfo
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- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/67—Vitamins
- A61K8/673—Vitamin B group
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/34—Alcohols
- A61K8/345—Alcohols containing more than one hydroxy group
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/49—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
- A61K8/494—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with more than one nitrogen as the only hetero atom
- A61K8/4946—Imidazoles or their condensed derivatives, e.g. benzimidazoles
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/49—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
- A61K8/4973—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with oxygen as the only hetero atom
- A61K8/498—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with oxygen as the only hetero atom having 6-membered rings or their condensed derivatives, e.g. coumarin
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/67—Vitamins
- A61K8/671—Vitamin A; Derivatives thereof, e.g. ester of vitamin A acid, ester of retinol, retinol, retinal
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q17/00—Barrier preparations; Preparations brought into direct contact with the skin for affording protection against external influences, e.g. sunlight, X-rays or other harmful rays, corrosive materials, bacteria or insect stings
- A61Q17/04—Topical preparations for affording protection against sunlight or other radiation; Topical sun tanning preparations
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- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
- A61Q19/02—Preparations for care of the skin for chemically bleaching or whitening the skin
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
- A61Q19/08—Anti-ageing preparations
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
- A61K2800/59—Mixtures
- A61K2800/592—Mixtures of compounds complementing their respective functions
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/74—Biological properties of particular ingredients
- A61K2800/78—Enzyme modulators, e.g. Enzyme agonists
- A61K2800/782—Enzyme inhibitors; Enzyme antagonists
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Abstract
The invention provides a skin whitening anti-aging composition, a whitening anti-aging cream containing the same and a preparation method thereof. The skin whitening anti-aging composition comprises: niacinamide, ergothioneine, anthocyanins, retinol palmitate, and butylene glycol. In the skin whitening anti-aging composition provided by the invention, multiple components are organically combined and act together, so that the composition has the effects of removing free radicals, inhibiting tyrosinase activity, reducing skin melanin generation, promoting skin collagen production, promoting skin cell metabolism, accelerating epidermal cell shedding, resisting ultraviolet rays and the like, solves the problems of exogenous aging and endogenous aging, and accurately blocks the problem of skin aging, thereby really solving the aging phenomena of skin wrinkles, looseness, pigmentation and the like and whitening and brightening the skin.
Description
Technical Field
The invention belongs to the technical field of cosmetics, and particularly relates to a cosmetic and a preparation method thereof, in particular to a skin whitening anti-aging composition, a whitening anti-aging cream containing the same and a preparation method thereof.
Background
Skin aging can be mainly classified into intrinsic aging and extrinsic aging. Endogenous aging is caused by factors of the body itself, such as heredity, diseases, sleep deficiency, smoking and the like, and is specifically expressed by the generation of fine wrinkles, skin laxity, thinning and dryness, or by benign hyperplasia of the skin, such as seborrheic keratosis, skin pigmentation or loss of small spots of skin pigments, senile hemangioma and the like. Extrinsic aging is mainly the result of the superposition of photodamage accumulation and natural aging, wherein photoaging mainly occurs in the skin of the light-exposed parts of face, neck, forearm, etc., and is manifested by rough skin, deepened and thickened wrinkles or appearance of leather-like skin, often accompanied by pigmentation, spots, telangiectasia, etc.
Although the existing facial anti-aging and wrinkle-removing methods and products are various, the skin aging is delayed, the facial wrinkles are reduced, and the skin vitality is still a big subject of research in the field of cosmetics at present.
CN102316886A discloses an anti-skin aging peptide, which contains at least one of the peptides Asn-Ile-Pro-Pro-Leu, Ile-Pro-Pro, Pro-Val-Val-Pro-Pro, Val-Pro-Pro-Phe, Val-Pro-Pro, Phe-Pro-Pro-Gln and Leu-Pro-Pro-Thr. The invention only stimulates the generation of collagen of the body to resist aging, but cannot resist exogenous aging.
CN108135821A discloses an anti-aging agent for skin, which is an inositol derivative obtained by combining monosaccharide or oligosaccharide with inositol, and the anti-aging agent can show good improvement effect on epidermal wrinkles and dermal wrinkles, can be used for preparing cosmetics, and can achieve anti-wrinkle and anti-aging effects by promoting the expression of skin collagen and elastin. The invention achieves the aim of resisting aging by stimulating the generation of collagen and elastin of the body, but cannot solve the problem of exogenous aging.
CN105585601A discloses an anti-aging composition for external application to the skin and a method for producing the same, which provides an anti-aging composition for external application to the skin containing an aqueous medium as a base and an active ingredient selected from the group consisting of L-ascorbic acid and derivatives thereof, wherein the L-ascorbic acid and derivatives thereof have an excellent anti-aging effect. The present invention is mainly intended to maintain or enhance the barrier function and hyaluronic acid production in the skin by improving the turnover of cells in the skin, and to prevent or improve wrinkles, fine lines, spots, sagging or the like in the skin. The invention can not solve the problem of exogenous aging by promoting cell division and proliferation and accelerating the shedding of epidermal keratinocytes to slow down cell aging.
The anti-aging composition achieves the purposes of slowing down skin aging and resisting aging by stimulating the synthesis of collagen and elastin of the body, promoting cell division and proliferation or accelerating the shedding of epidermal keratinocytes and the like, but cannot simultaneously combine the two aspects of resisting exogenous aging and slowing down endogenous aging, and cannot fundamentally solve the problem of skin aging.
Therefore, the development of a cosmetic capable of simultaneously fighting against exogenous aging and slowing down endogenous aging is a problem to be urgently solved in the art.
Disclosure of Invention
Aiming at the defects in the prior art, the invention aims to provide a skin whitening anti-aging composition which has the effects of removing free radicals, inhibiting tyrosinase activity, reducing skin melanin generation, promoting skin collagen production, promoting skin cell metabolism, accelerating epidermal cell shedding, resisting ultraviolet rays and the like, has an obvious whitening effect, and solves the problems of exogenous aging and endogenous aging, so that the aging phenomena of skin wrinkles, relaxation, pigmentation and the like are really solved. In order to achieve the purpose, the invention adopts the following technical scheme:
in a first aspect, the present invention provides a skin whitening anti-aging composition comprising: niacinamide, ergothioneine, anthocyanins, retinol palmitate, and butylene glycol.
Nicotinamide, also known as nicotinamide, 3-pyridinecarboxamide, is an amide compound of nicotinic acid and is also a derivative of vitamin B3, and has good effects in inhibiting melanin granule formation, inhibiting melanin transfer to keratinocytes, accelerating melanin transfer to the stratum corneum in keratinocytes, and promoting stratum corneum exfoliation.
Ergothioneine (EGT), a natural antioxidant, has been shown in many documents to protect DNA and proteins from oxidative damage. Ergothioneine is considered to be 6000-fold more effective than vitamin E in many biochemical reactions at the cellular level. Has the functions of resisting oxidation, eliminating free radicals, preventing ultraviolet radiation damage, regulating oxidation-reduction reaction in cells, participating in energy regulation in cells, protecting cell physiology and the like.
Anthocyanins (anthocyanidins), also known as anthocyanidins, are water-soluble natural pigments widely present in plants in nature and belong to the class of flavonoid compounds. Anthocyanins are present in the vacuole of plant cells and can be converted from chlorophyll. The anthocyanidin has antiaging, antitumor, ultraviolet resisting and radiation preventing effects.
Retinol palmitate is a derivative of vitamin A, which is easily absorbed by the skin and then converted to retinol. The main functions of retinol are to accelerate skin metabolism, promote cell proliferation and stimulate the production of collagen and elastin.
Butanediol is a common cosmetic moisturizer, has good moisturizing effect on skin, has the function of dissolving retinol palmitate in the composition, and has the effects of preventing the growth of microorganisms and preventing corrosion.
In the skin whitening and anti-aging composition provided by the invention, multiple whitening and anti-aging components accurately resist the skin aging problem in multiple steps according to different mechanisms, retinol palmitate mainly promotes cell proliferation, stimulates the generation of collagen and elastin, ergothioneine and anthocyanin are efficient in oxidation resistance, free radicals are efficiently eliminated, ultraviolet radiation damage is prevented, nicotinamide mainly inhibits skin melanin pigmentation, and the transfer of melanin in keratinocytes to horny layer is accelerated and the shedding of horny layer is promoted. Multiple components are organically combined and act together to really and effectively solve the skin aging problems such as skin aging, wrinkles, sagging, color spots and the like.
As a preferable technical scheme, the skin whitening anti-aging composition comprises the following components in parts by weight: 1-15 parts of nicotinamide, 1-25 parts of ergothioneine, 1-25 parts of anthocyanin, 1-5 parts of retinol palmitate and 1-50 parts of butanediol.
In the present invention, the amount of nicotinamide is 1 to 15 parts by mass, and may be, for example, 1 part, 2 parts, 3 parts, 5 parts, 8 parts, 10 parts, 12 parts, or 15 parts.
The ergothioneine is 1-25 parts by mass, and may be 1 part, 2 parts, 3 parts, 5 parts, 8 parts, 10 parts, 12 parts, 15 parts, 18 parts, 20 parts, 22 parts or 25 parts, for example.
The anthocyanin is 1 to 25 parts by mass, and may be 1 part, 2 parts, 3 parts, 5 parts, 8 parts, 10 parts, 12 parts, 15 parts, 18 parts, 20 parts, 22 parts or 25 parts, for example.
The retinol palmitate is used in an amount of 1-5 parts by mass, for example, 1 part, 2 parts, 3 parts, 4 parts, 5 parts, etc.
The mass portion of the butanediol is 1-50 parts, and can be 1 part, 2 parts, 3 parts, 5 parts, 8 parts, 10 parts, 12 parts, 15 parts, 18 parts, 20 parts, 22 parts, 25 parts, 28 parts, 30 parts, 35 parts, 36 parts, 40 parts, 45 parts or 50 parts, and the like.
As a preferable technical scheme, the skin whitening anti-aging composition comprises the following components in parts by weight: 1-10 parts of nicotinamide, 1-20 parts of ergothioneine, 1-20 parts of anthocyanin, 1-5 parts of retinol palmitate and 1-25 parts of butanediol.
As a preferable technical scheme, the skin whitening anti-aging composition comprises the following components in parts by weight: 5-10 parts of nicotinamide, 5-20 parts of ergothioneine, 5-20 parts of anthocyanin, 3-5 parts of retinol palmitate and 1-25 parts of butanediol.
As a preferable technical scheme, the skin whitening anti-aging composition comprises the following components in parts by weight: 10 parts of nicotinamide, 15 parts of ergothioneine, 25 parts of anthocyanin, 5 parts of retinol palmitate and 25 parts of butanediol.
The anthocyanin comprises any one or a combination of more than two of purple sweet potato anthocyanin, cowberry anthocyanin, grape peel anthocyanin, blueberry anthocyanin, cranberry anthocyanin, elderberry anthocyanin and blackberry anthocyanin.
Anthocyanins are derived from different kinds of fruits and vegetables such as purple sweet potato, purple cabbage, blueberry, cranberry, blueberry, black wolfberry, grape, elderberry red, blackcurrant, purple carrot and red cabbage, and have colors ranging from red to blue. These anthocyanins mainly include delphinidin (Delchindin), Cyanidin (Cyanidin), petunia (petuniadin), peony anthocyanidin (Peonidin), and preferably blueberry anthocyanins, because blueberries contain the most amount of anthocyanins and are the most nutritious.
In a second aspect, the present invention provides a method for preparing a skin whitening anti-aging composition according to the first aspect, the method comprising: dissolving the formula amount of retinol palmitate in butanediol, and then fully mixing with nicotinamide, ergothioneine, anthocyanin and water to obtain the skin whitening anti-aging composition.
In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the mixing time is 10-30min, for example, 10min, 12min, 15min, 18min, 20min, 22min, 25min, 28min, or 30 min.
Preferably, the mixing temperature is 20-40 ℃, for example can be 20 ℃, 22 ℃, 24 ℃, 26 ℃, 28 ℃, 30 ℃, 32 ℃, 35 ℃, 36 ℃, 38 ℃ or 40 ℃.
In a third aspect, the present invention provides a use of the skin whitening anti-aging composition according to the first aspect in the preparation of cosmetics.
In a fourth aspect, the present invention provides a whitening anti-aging cream comprising the skin whitening anti-aging composition according to the first aspect.
In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the skin anti-aging composition in the whitening anti-aging cream may be 0.001 to 30% by mass, for example, 0.001%, 0.005%, 0.01%, 0.02%, 0.05%, 0.08%, 0.1%, 0.2%, 0.5%, 1%, 2%, 5%, 8%, 10%, 15%, 18%, 20%, 22%, 25%, or 30%.
In the invention, the whitening anti-aging cream comprises a component A, a component B and a component C containing the skin whitening anti-aging composition.
The component A comprises one or more of coconut oil alcohol-caprylate/caprate, hydrogenated polyisobutene, dioctyl carbonate, octyl dodecanol, cetearyl alcohol, caprylic/capric triglyceride, C14-22 alcohol or C12-20 alkyl glucoside.
The component B comprises one or more of deionized water, cetearyl alcohol olive oleate, sorbitan olive oleate, glycerol, 1, 3-propylene glycol or xanthan gum.
The component C comprises sorbitan caprylate, hexanediol, gluconolactone, the skin anti-aging composition of the first aspect, phenoxyethanol and p-hydroxyacetophenone.
In the invention, the preparation method of the whitening anti-aging cream comprises the following steps:
(1) putting the component B in the whitening anti-aging cream into an emulsifying pot for dissolving and dispersing at 70-85 ℃ (such as 70 ℃, 75 ℃, 78 ℃, 80 ℃ or 85 ℃ and the like);
(2) dispersing the component A in the whitening anti-aging cream in an oil pan, stirring and uniformly adding the component A into the water phase component at a constant speed under 60-80 ℃ (for example, 60 ℃, 65 ℃, 70 ℃, 75 ℃ or 80 ℃ and the like), taking 1-3min (for example, 1min, 1.2min, 1.5min, 2min, 2.3min, 2.4min, 2.5min or 3min and the like), re-emulsifying at a homogenizing speed of 1000-6000rpm (for example, 1000rpm, 1500rpm, 2000rpm, 3000rpm, 4000rpm, 5000rpm or 6000rpm and the like) for 0.5-5min (for example, 0.5min, 1min, 1.5min, 2min, 2.5min, 3min, 4min or 5min and the like), and starting stirring at 100-600rpm (for example, 100rpm, 150rpm, 200rpm, 300rpm, 400rpm, 500rpm, 600rpm and the like) after the emulsification is finished;
(3) and cooling to 40 ℃, uniformly mixing the component C, adding the mixture into an emulsifying pot, uniformly stirring, vacuumizing, cooling to 35 ℃, and discharging to obtain the whitening anti-aging cream.
The recitation of numerical ranges herein includes not only the above-recited numerical values, but also any numerical values between non-recited numerical ranges, and is not intended to be exhaustive or to limit the invention to the precise numerical values encompassed within the range for brevity and clarity.
Compared with the prior art, the invention has the beneficial effects that:
the composition provided by the invention can comprehensively solve the problem of skin aging from resisting exogenous aging of skin and delaying endogenous aging of skin, has strong free radical scavenging capacity, inhibits tyrosinase activity, reduces melanin generation, can promote the expression of collagen and elastin of the skin, has the effects of promoting metabolism of skin cells, accelerating the shedding of epidermal cells, resisting ultraviolet rays and the like, and achieves the purposes of slowing down skin aging, improving color spots, whitening skin, reducing wrinkles and the like.
Detailed Description
The technical solution of the present invention is further explained by the following embodiments. It should be understood by those skilled in the art that the examples are only for the understanding of the present invention and should not be construed as the specific limitations of the present invention.
The anthocyanidin used in the following examples is blueberry anthocyanidin, purchased from shanxi honghao biotechnology limited and has a content of 25%.
Example 1
The embodiment provides a skin whitening and anti-aging composition which comprises the following components in parts by weight:
10 parts of nicotinamide, 15 parts of ergothioneine, 25 parts of anthocyanin, 5 parts of retinol palmitate, 25 parts of butanediol and 20 parts of water; the components with the formula ratio are mixed to prepare the skin anti-aging composition.
Example 2
The embodiment provides a skin whitening and anti-aging composition which comprises the following components in parts by weight:
15 parts of nicotinamide, 20 parts of ergothioneine, 20 parts of anthocyanin, 3 parts of retinol palmitate, 25 parts of butanediol and 17 parts of water; the components with the formula ratio are mixed to prepare the skin anti-aging composition.
Example 3
The embodiment provides a skin whitening and anti-aging composition which comprises the following components in parts by weight:
5 parts of nicotinamide, 25 parts of ergothioneine, 15 parts of anthocyanin, 2 parts of retinol palmitate, 25 parts of butanediol and 28 parts of water; the components with the formula ratio are mixed to prepare the skin anti-aging composition.
Comparative example 1
This comparative example is a single compound, which is nicotinamide.
Comparative example 2
This comparative example is a single compound, which is ergothioneine.
Comparative example 3
This comparative example is a single compound, which is an anthocyanin.
Comparative example 4
This comparative example is a single compound, which is retinol palmitate.
Comparative example 5
The present embodiment provides a composition, comprising, by weight: 10 parts of nicotinamide, 25 parts of ergothioneine, 25 parts of butanediol and 40 parts of water.
Comparative example 6
The present embodiment provides a composition, comprising, by weight: 10 parts of nicotinamide, 25 parts of anthocyanin, 25 parts of butanediol and 40 parts of water.
Comparative example 7
The present embodiment provides a composition, comprising, by weight: 10 parts of nicotinamide, 5 parts of retinol palmitate, 25 parts of butanediol and 60 parts of water.
Comparative example 8
The present embodiment provides a composition, comprising, by weight: 25 parts of ergothioneine, 25 parts of anthocyanin, 25 parts of butanediol and 25 parts of water.
Comparative example 9
The present embodiment provides a composition, comprising, by weight: 25 parts of ergothioneine, 5 parts of retinol palmitate, 25 parts of butanediol and 45 parts of water.
Comparative example 10
The present embodiment provides a composition, comprising, by weight: 25 parts of anthocyanin, 5 parts of retinol palmitate, 25 parts of butanediol and 45 parts of water.
Comparative example 11
The present embodiment provides a composition, comprising, by weight: 10 parts of nicotinamide, 25 parts of ergothioneine, 25 parts of anthocyanin, 25 parts of butanediol and 15 parts of water.
Comparative example 12
The present embodiment provides a composition, comprising, by weight: 10 parts of nicotinamide, 25 parts of ergothioneine, 5 parts of retinol palmitate, 25 parts of butanediol and 35 parts of water.
Comparative example 13
The present embodiment provides a composition, comprising, by weight: 10 parts of nicotinamide, 25 parts of anthocyanin, 5 parts of retinol palmitate, 25 parts of butanediol and 35 parts of water.
Comparative example 14
The present embodiment provides a composition, comprising, by weight: 25 parts of ergothioneine, 25 parts of anthocyanin, 5 parts of retinol palmitate, 25 parts of butanediol and 20 parts of water.
Test example 1
Haemolysis test of erythrocytes
The erythrocyte hemolysis test is an alternative method of the rabbit eye stimulation test (Draize test), and the basic principle is to evaluate the damage of chemicals to eye tissue cells by measuring the amount of dissolved hemoglobin and the degree of denaturation. The irritation of cosmetics and raw materials thereof to eyes is evaluated internationally mainly through erythrocyte hemolysis experiments.
The samples prepared in examples and comparative examples were subjected to an erythrocyte hemolysis test in accordance with the test method and classification standards of the erythrocyte hemolysis test by European Alternatives validation center (ECVAM) (ECVAM. ECVAM DB-ALM: INVITOX Protocol, Red blood cells test system. INVITOX No.37.Ispra. Italy: ECVAM,1994), and the irritation of the samples was evaluated. Wherein, table 1 is the grading standard of ECVAM for cosmetic irritation; table 2 shows the results of the hemolysis test of erythrocytes for each sample.
TABLE 1
| L/D | Grading |
| ＞100 | Has no irritation |
| 10＜L/D≤100 | Micro-stimulation property |
| 1＜L/D≤10 | Mild irritation |
| 0.1＜L/D≤1 | Moderate irritation |
| L/D≤0.1 | Severe irritation |
TABLE 2
As can be seen from Table 2, the hemoglobin Denaturation Indexes (DI) of the whitening and anti-aging compositions prepared in examples 1 to 3 are all more than 98%, and the L/D values are all more than 100, so that the whitening and anti-aging compositions are non-irritant; as can be seen from the experimental data, when the nicotinamide or the retinol palmitate is tested independently, the nicotinamide or the retinol palmitate has certain irritation on the skin, the L/D value is less than 100, the nicotinamide or the retinol palmitate is slightly or slightly irritant, and the irritation is reduced after the nicotinamide or the retinol palmitate is compounded with other components.
Test example 2
Determination of superoxide anion radical scavenging ability
0.05mol/L of 4.5mL of Tris-HCl buffer solution with the pH value of 8.2 is taken, preheated for 20min in a water bath kettle at 25 ℃, then 1mL of the anti-aging composition provided in the examples 1-3 and the compound provided in the comparative examples 1-14 are respectively added, 0.4mL of 25mmol/L pyrogallol solution is added, after uniform mixing, the mixture reacts for 5min in a water bath at 25 ℃, and 8mol/L of 1.0mL of HCl is added to stop the reaction.
Absorbance values were measured at 299nm with Tris-HCl buffer as a reference. The blank was replaced with 1mL of distilled water and the clearance (D) calculated.
Clearance equation (%) D ═ 1- (A)2/A1)]X is 100%; in the formula A1Absorbance values for the blank; a. the2The results are shown in Table 3 as absorbance values of the samples.
Test example 3
Measurement of hydroxyl radical scavenging ability
Sequentially adding 2mmol/L FeSO into a 25mL colorimetric tube4 3mL，1mmol/L H2O23mL, shaking, adding 3mL of salicylic acid 6mmol/L, shaking, heating in 37 deg.C water bath for 15min, taking out, and measuring absorbance Ao. Then 100 mg. L are added-1The anti-aging compositions provided in examples 1-3 and the compounds or compositions provided in comparative examples 1-14 were shaken, heated in a water bath for 15min, removed and measured for absorbance Ax. According to the method, another colorimetric tube is taken, the above liquids are repeatedly and sequentially added, no salicylic acid is added, the mixture is shaken up and heated in water bath for 15min, and the value A is measuredxo. Wherein the formula for calculating the hydroxyl radical clearance rate is as follows:
hydroxyl radical clearance (%) ═ a0-(Ax-Ax0)/A0×100％；
In the formula A0The absorbance value of the blank control system; a. thexAdding the absorbance value of a sample system to be detected; a. thex0Without adding a color-developing agent H2O2Absorbance value of solution background. The results of the experiment are shown in table 3.
Test example 4
Determination of tyrosinase inhibitory Activity
At 3X 104Cell density per well B16 melanoma cells (melanoma cells) were transferred to 96-well plates and cultured in a 37 ℃ incubator for 24h in DMEM medium (Dulbecco's modified eagle medium, available from GIBCO) supplemented with 10% Fetal Bovine Serum (FBS), 1% antifungal Antibiotic (Antibiotic-Antibiotic, available from GIBCO).
After washing the cells with 100. mu.L of 66mM Phosphate Buffer (PBS) at pH 6.8, 100. mu.L of PBS containing 1% Triton X-100 was added to each well, followed by dissolution for 30min with a 37 ℃ blender.
50 μ L of the supernatant was transferred to wells of a new plate, and 50 μ L of the antiaging composition provided in examples 1 to 3 and the compound or composition provided in comparative examples 1 to 14 dissolved in PBS were added to the experimental group, while only 50 μ L of PBS was added to the control group. 50 μ L of a 5mM Levodopa (Levodopa, L-DOPA) solution was rapidly added between experimental groups in such a manner that no temporal difference was generated, and the absorbance (475nm) was measured using a Plate Reader (Plate Reader), which was taken as the amount of initial DOPA chrome (DOPA chrome).
Then, the reaction system was stirred for 45min with a mixer at 37 ℃ and the absorbance (475nm) was measured again as the final absorbance of the reaction system, and the amount of DOPA chrome after storage was measured, thereby determining how much inhibition of tyrosinase activity was caused, and based on the obtained measurement values, the inhibition rate of tyrosinase by each experimental group to which the sample to be tested was added was calculated with the tyrosinase activity of the control group being 1, and the obtained results are shown in Table 3.
TABLE 3
From table 1, it can be seen that examples 1-3 all have better radical scavenging ability and tyrosinase inhibiting effect, and have better effects of scavenging radicals and inhibiting tyrosinase than the effect of using a single component alone, and better than the effect of combining any two or three components, especially the inhibition rate on tyrosinase, and examples 1-3 all can reach more than 90%.
Application example 1
Providing an anti-aging cream with a skin anti-aging composition, wherein the anti-aging cream comprises the following components in percentage by weight:
the preparation method of the anti-aging cream comprises the following steps:
(1) putting the component A into an oil pan, stirring and dispersing uniformly at 60 ℃ to serve as an oil phase, putting the component B into an emulsifying pan, and dissolving and dispersing uniformly at 60 ℃;
(2) adding the oil phase into the water phase at uniform speed under stirring for 3.0min, emulsifying at homogenizing speed of 1000rpm for 0.5min, and stirring at 600 rpm.
(3) Cooling to 40 deg.C, adding the component C into emulsifying pot, stirring, vacuumizing, cooling to 35 deg.C, and discharging to obtain the final product.
Application comparative example 1
The application comparative example does not contain a blank cream of the skin anti-aging composition; the other components and the preparation method are the same as those in application example 1.
Application test example 1
Human body whitening evaluation test:
the principle is as follows: the amount of melanin and hemoglobin is measured by using three different wavelength absorptions and reflections to determine the appearance of skin color.
Test samples and subjects: the creams prepared in application example 1 and application comparative example 1 were used as test samples. Healthy volunteers aged 18-50 years without skin disease and allergic history were selected as test subjects, and the number of volunteers was 20, and randomly divided into two groups of 10 persons each.
The instrument comprises the following steps: skin melanin and heme tester, Mexameter MX18, CK, germany; multifunctional skin tester and colorimetric test probe, MPA 9, germany CK.
And (3) testing conditions are as follows: room temperature 20 + -2 deg.C, Relative Humidity (RH)50 + -5%; the tested person enters the testing environment 30min before the test for quiet test, and the tested part is exposed 10min before the test.
The method comprises the following steps: according to the test requirements, the appropriate areas of the bending areas of the left and right cheeks and the right arm forearm of the tested person are selected as the tested areas. Before the cosmetics are coated, the probe of Mexamter MX18 is vertically placed on the skin, and after 3-5s and the measured value is stabilized, the values of melanin and haematochrome of the measured part are read. The melanin and red pigment values were measured according to standard procedures immediately after (week 0), 1, 2, 3, and 4 weeks after application of the cosmetic, respectively; the dark reddish pigment of each test site was measured 5 times, and the average value was obtained.
The results of the experiments are shown in tables 4-7. Table 4 shows the melanin values at different times for the test subjects using application example 1; table 5 shows the melanin values at different times for the test subjects using comparative example 1; table 6 shows the red pigment values at different times for the testers using application example 1; table 7 shows the melanin values at different times using the test subjects using comparative example 1.
TABLE 4
| Tester number | Week 0 | Week 1 | Week 2 | Week 3 | Week 4 |
| 1 | 110.35 | 107.12 | 102.37 | 96.83 | 92.66 |
| 2 | 115.77 | 109.35 | 106.06 | 103.71 | 96.08 |
| 3 | 128.21 | 119.37 | 115.82 | 114.2 | 113.09 |
| 4 | 135.1 | 126.82 | 117.65 | 108.45 | 105.33 |
| 5 | 103.02 | 96.20 | 92.77 | 87.42 | 81.24 |
| 6 | 118.22 | 109.50 | 103.74 | 99.38 | 94.52 |
| 7 | 143.25 | 138.60 | 133.47 | 128.29 | 123.06 |
| 8 | 125.24 | 119.45 | 117.63 | 113.57 | 109.20 |
| 9 | 128.32 | 121.42 | 113.44 | 99.68 | 93.50 |
| 10 | 101.36 | 93.07 | 88.46 | 82.78 | 78.54 |
TABLE 5
TABLE 6
| Tester number | Week 0 | Week 1 | Week 2 | Week 3 | Week 4 |
| 1 | 210.51 | 205.12 | 192.37 | 181.83 | 172.66 |
| 2 | 215.77 | 209.35 | 196.06 | 193.71 | 186.08 |
| 3 | 198.21 | 179.37 | 165.82 | 154.2 | 143.09 |
| 4 | 235.10 | 226.82 | 217.65 | 208.45 | 195.33 |
| 5 | 303.02 | 290.20 | 272.77 | 267.42 | 251.24 |
| 6 | 198.22 | 179.50 | 163.74 | 155.38 | 144.52 |
| 7 | 195.25 | 188.60 | 173.47 | 158.29 | 143.06 |
| 8 | 325.24 | 319.45 | 287.63 | 263.57 | 239.20 |
| 9 | 218.22 | 209.50 | 193.74 | 179.38 | 167.52 |
| 10 | 201.36 | 193.07 | 185.46 | 172.78 | 158.54 |
TABLE 7
The skin color is expressed in terms of the melanin and red pigment content of the skin, with less melanin and red pigment content giving lighter, i.e., whiter, skin color. As can be seen from tables 4 to 7, the melanin value of the test person using application example 1 is reduced by about 20, and the haematochrome value is reduced by about 50, while the melanin value and the haematochrome value of the test person using application comparative example 1 are basically unchanged, which indicates that the cream added with the whitening anti-aging composition has an obvious whitening effect, and the cream prepared without the whitening anti-aging composition has a whitening effect.
Application test example 2
Human skin moisture content testing
The anti-aging cream prepared in application example 1 and application comparative example 1 was used as a comparative object, and the capacitance of the stratum corneum of the skin before and after use was measured by a Corneometer CM825 to measure the change in the water content of the stratum corneum.
The subjects were 20 in total, 15 women and 5 men aged 20-40 years, with an average age of 28 years. Cleaning forearm of the testee, sitting at a set humidity for 30min, and selecting 3 × 3cm of forearm of the testee2The test area of the square of (1) was recorded by taking the left arm as the test area of the moisturizing cream of application example 1 and application comparative example 1 and the symmetrical area of the right arm as a blank, measuring the moisture content of each test part with a Corneometer CM825, repeating 5 times, and obtaining an average value. Wherein the calculation formula of the skin hydration rate is as follows:
table 8 shows the change in skin hydration rate for the subjects at different time points.
TABLE 8
| Test sample | 0h | 1h | 2h | 3h | 4h |
| Application example 1 | 33.41％ | 78.56％ | 65.28％ | 60.12％ | 58.24％ |
| Application comparative example 1 | 34.75％ | 50.23％ | 36.34％ | 32.51％ | 30.48％ |
According to the above test data, the skin hydration rate of the subject was still at a very high level, reaching 58.24%, after 4 hours using the sample prepared in application example 1, whereas the skin hydration rate of the subject was only 30.48% after 4 hours using application comparative example 1, with a very significant difference, which indicates that the composition of the present invention has very good effects in moisturizing and protecting the barrier function of the skin, and the skin moisture content was still at a high level, the transdermal moisture loss rate was greatly reduced, and the skin exhibited a tender, elastic, and transparent state after 4 hours of use.
Application test example 3
Skin elasticity test
The specific method comprises the following steps: in this experiment, the skin elasticity changes of the subjects before and after the moisturizing cream prepared in application example 1 and application comparative example 1 were compared, and 80 subjects, half of men and women, and the average age of 28 years, were randomly divided into 2 groups of 40 subjects. Subjects applied the whole face daily using the moisturizing cream products prepared in application example 1 and application comparative example 1 for 28 days with a visit back on days 14 and 28.
The skin needs to be thoroughly cleaned during return visit, after sitting still for 30min in a constant temperature and humidity environment, the skin elasticity tester MPA580 (CourageKhazaka Germany) is used for testing, the skin is sucked into a specific probe under negative pressure by the tester, the sucked skin depth is measured by a non-contact optical test system, the elasticity performance of the skin is analyzed by MPA software, the ratio of the rebound quantity of the skin without negative pressure to the maximum stretching quantity of the skin with negative pressure is used for skin elasticity evaluation, the closer the ratio is to 1, the better the skin elasticity is, and the results are shown in Table 9.
TABLE 9
| Test sample | Skin elasticity at day 0 | Skin elasticity at day 14 | Skin elasticity at day 28 |
| Application example 1 | 0.64 | 0.75 | 0.87 |
| Application comparative example 1 | 0.58 | 0.59 | 0.58 |
As can be seen from table 9, the skin elasticity increase value of the subject using the whitening anti-aging cream prepared in application example 1 is significantly higher than that of the subject using comparative application example 1, and the whitening anti-aging cream provided by the present invention has a very good skin elasticity enhancing effect.
In conclusion, the free radical scavenging effect and the tyrosinase inhibiting effect of the whitening anti-aging composition provided by the invention are obviously higher than the effects generated by the independent use of all the components, and the skin whitening anti-aging composition is added into a cream matrix, and human body experiment tests show that compared with the cream using all the single components, the skin whitening anti-aging composition added with the skin anti-aging composition prepared by the invention has better improvement on the aspects of skin whiteness, brightness, hydration degree, skin elasticity and the like, so that the composition has better synergistic effect on the four components of nicotinamide, ergothioneine, anthocyanin and retinol palmitate, has very good effects of resisting oxidation, whitening, moisturizing, preventing skin ultraviolet loss and the like, and has obvious skin whitening and anti-aging effects.
The applicant declares that the above description is only a specific embodiment of the present invention, but the scope of the present invention is not limited thereto, and it should be understood by those skilled in the art that any changes or substitutions that can be easily conceived by those skilled in the art within the technical scope of the present invention are within the scope and disclosure of the present invention.
Claims (11)
1. The skin whitening anti-aging composition is characterized by comprising the following components in parts by weight: 1-15 parts of nicotinamide, 1-25 parts of ergothioneine, 1-25 parts of anthocyanin, 1-5 parts of retinol palmitate and 1-50 parts of butanediol.
2. The skin whitening anti-aging composition according to claim 1, comprising the following components in parts by weight: 1-10 parts of nicotinamide, 1-20 parts of ergothioneine, 1-20 parts of anthocyanin, 1-5 parts of retinol palmitate and 1-25 parts of butanediol.
3. The skin whitening anti-aging composition according to claim 1 or 2, which comprises the following components in parts by weight: 5-10 parts of nicotinamide, 5-20 parts of ergothioneine, 5-20 parts of anthocyanin, 3-5 parts of retinol palmitate and 1-25 parts of butanediol.
4. The skin whitening anti-aging composition according to claim 1, comprising the following components in parts by weight: 10 parts of nicotinamide, 15 parts of ergothioneine, 25 parts of anthocyanin, 5 parts of retinol palmitate and 25 parts of butanediol.
5. The skin whitening anti-aging composition according to claim 1, wherein the anthocyanins comprise any one or a combination of two or more of purple sweet potato anthocyanins, cowberry anthocyanins, grape skin anthocyanins, blueberry anthocyanins, cranberry anthocyanins, elderberry anthocyanins, or blackberry anthocyanins.
6. A method for preparing the skin whitening anti-aging composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the method comprises the following steps:
dissolving the formula amount of retinol palmitate in butanediol, and then fully mixing with nicotinamide, ergothioneine, anthocyanin and water to obtain the skin anti-aging composition.
7. The method of claim 6, wherein the mixing time is 10-30 min.
8. The method of claim 6, wherein the temperature of the mixing is 20 to 40 ℃.
9. Use of the skin whitening anti-aging composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5 for the preparation of cosmetics.
10. A whitening anti-aging cream characterized by comprising the skin whitening anti-aging composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5.
11. The whitening anti-aging cream according to claim 10, wherein the skin whitening anti-aging composition is contained in the whitening anti-aging cream in an amount of 0.001-30% by mass.
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