CN109868540B - Weaving and printing combined jacquard fabric weaving method based on clipping and printing process - Google Patents
Weaving and printing combined jacquard fabric weaving method based on clipping and printing process Download PDFInfo
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- CN109868540B CN109868540B CN201910018031.2A CN201910018031A CN109868540B CN 109868540 B CN109868540 B CN 109868540B CN 201910018031 A CN201910018031 A CN 201910018031A CN 109868540 B CN109868540 B CN 109868540B
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- 239000004744 fabric Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 92
- 238000007639 printing Methods 0.000 title claims abstract description 50
- 238000009941 weaving Methods 0.000 title claims abstract description 34
- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 title claims abstract description 27
- 230000000694 effects Effects 0.000 claims abstract description 47
- 238000007667 floating Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 12
- 238000010586 diagram Methods 0.000 claims description 21
- 230000008520 organization Effects 0.000 claims description 11
- 238000009966 trimming Methods 0.000 claims description 11
- 238000006467 substitution reaction Methods 0.000 claims description 5
- 238000012938 design process Methods 0.000 claims description 4
- 238000004519 manufacturing process Methods 0.000 abstract description 3
- 230000000007 visual effect Effects 0.000 abstract description 3
- 238000010008 shearing Methods 0.000 description 7
- 239000004677 Nylon Substances 0.000 description 2
- 229920001778 nylon Polymers 0.000 description 2
- 238000003854 Surface Print Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000003086 colorant Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000002301 combined effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000010276 construction Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000009977 dual effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000005516 engineering process Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000010354 integration Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000036961 partial effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000003014 reinforcing effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000004088 simulation Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000007787 solid Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000016776 visual perception Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000002759 woven fabric Substances 0.000 description 1
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Abstract
The application provides a weaving and printing combined jacquard fabric weaving method based on a clipping and carving process, and belongs to the technical field of pattern design weaving. The weaving process comprises the following steps: (1) digital pattern design, (2) jacquard layer weave design, (3) fabric structure chart design, (4) jacquard fabric production, (5) cut flower and float length processing, and (6) jacquard fabric printing, the surface of the jacquard fabric produced by the method has the characteristics that cut flower texture and printing color are mutually matched to represent the same digital pattern, wherein, the jacquard part represents the thin-through effect or the floating length fringe effect of the cut flower fabric, the printing part and the jacquard texture color are matched to represent the colorful visual effect of the pattern, and the designed fabric can meet the technical requirements of mass production.
Description
Technical Field
The application relates to a weaving and printing combined jacquard fabric weaving method based on a clipping and carving process, and belongs to the technical field of pattern weaving.
Background
The weaving and printing combined fabric is a fabric variety combining the jacquard effect and the printing effect, the conventional weaving and printing combined jacquard design method combines a white woven fabric and a printing technology, and the jacquard texture effect is relatively smooth and solid. To date, no document proposes a design method which adds a cut-flower fabric style in weaving and printing integration to form a design method that combines weaving and printing on the cut-flower fabric and simultaneously shows the texture and rich color effect of the cut-flower fabric.
Disclosure of Invention
In view of the above, the present application provides a method for weaving and printing a jacquard fabric based on a clipping process.
Specifically, the cut flower texture part of the pattern is designed through a cut flower process, the special light and thin transparent texture or fringe floating effect of the cut flower fabric is expressed, the visual perception of the cut flower fabric is highlighted and combined with the jacquard fabric, the rich color effect of the pattern is expressed through combining the design of the printing pattern on the basis, the fabric surface obtained through design has the dual characteristics of combining the cut flower with the unique texture and rich colors, and the cut flower texture and the printing color are matched with each other to express the same digital pattern on the surface of the finished jacquard fabric: the jacquard part shows the thin-through effect or fringe floating effect of the cut-flower fabric, and the printing part and the jacquard texture are matched in color to show the colorful visual effect of the patterns.
The implementation method and the main technical scheme of the application are as follows:
a weaving and printing combined jacquard fabric weaving method based on a clipping and carving process comprises the following steps:
(1) designing a digital pattern: designing a digital pattern, wherein the digital pattern is divided into a printing layer pattern and a jacquard layer pattern, the jacquard layer pattern is divided into a cut-flower part and a non-cut-flower part, wherein a pure color part in the digital pattern is the cut-flower part, a gray level image after a color part in the digital pattern is decolored is the non-cut-flower part, and a color image after the pure color layer and the gray level layer are removed in the digital pattern is the printing layer pattern; the non-cut-out portion coincides with the printed portion (printed layer pattern).
(2) Designing a jacquard layer structure:
firstly, designing a photoplotting tissue library aiming at non-clipping flower parts, selecting a basic tissue A, wherein the effective selection range of the basic tissue A is twill or satin of the original non-clipping flower part tissue, the number of the warp and weft tissue cycles is the same and is recorded as M, reinforcing the basic tissue A towards the right along the weft direction by 1 to form a group of photoplotting tissues, all the tissues form the photoplotting tissue library, the number of the photoplotting tissues is M (M-2) +1,
secondly, carrying out tissue design aiming at the cut-off part, wherein the jacquard fabric is woven by a plurality of wefts and warps, one weft is selected as a first weft according to design requirements, the interweaving position of the first weft and the warps draws a ground tissue B, all the other wefts except the first weft are warp tissue points or weft tissue points, and the wefts except the first weft are not interwoven with the warps and form floating length;
(3) designing a fabric structure diagram: decolorizing the digital pattern obtained in the step (1) to form a gray level image, adjusting the gray level to be not more than the number of photo-texture tissues, replacing the gray level in the gray level image and the photo-texture tissues one by one to form a non-cut-flower part fabric structure chart, and filling the pure color part of the pattern and the cut-flower part tissue in an organization corresponding to each other to form a cut-flower part fabric structure chart;
(4) weaving: selecting warps and wefts according to the texture color effect in the digital pattern design process, setting the density of the warps and the wefts according to the fabric structure diagram obtained in the steps (1) to (3), and weaving the fabric structure diagram with weft selection information to obtain a jacquard fabric with a cut-flower effect;
(5) and (3) carrying out clipping and floating length treatment: carrying out float length trimming on the jacquard fabric obtained in the step (4);
(6) printing: and (3) according to the texture and layout effect of the jacquard fabric subjected to the float length treatment, keeping the position of the colored pattern obtained in the step (1) unchanged, and printing the surface of the jacquard fabric, namely finishing the weaving and printing of a finished product.
The above scheme can also be illustrated according to the following specific scheme:
(1) designing a digital pattern:
designing a digital pattern, wherein the pattern has a colorful effect part and a pure color part at the same time, the pattern design is divided into a printing layer pattern and a jacquard layer pattern, and the jacquard layer pattern is divided into a cut part and a non-cut part. The printed layer pattern has a colorful effect, the non-clipping flower part is obtained by removing the colorful part of the printed layer pattern, the pattern of the clipping flower part is a pure color part, namely, the subsequent clipping flower treatment is needed; the size of the pattern of the printing layer is the same as that of the pattern of the jacquard layer.
(2) Designing a jacquard layer structure:
firstly, designing a photo organization library aiming at a non-clipping flower part: selecting a basic structure A, wherein the effective selection range of the basic structure A is twill or satin in the original structure, the number of the cycles of the warp and weft is the same and is recorded as M, M is between 5 and 48, the basic structure A is reinforced 1 along the weft one by one to the right, and a group of shadow tissues are designed, wherein all tissues form a shadow tissue bank, and the number of the shadow tissues is M (M-2) + 1.
Secondly, carrying out organization design on the flower shearing part: drawing a ground tissue B at the interweaving position of the first weft and the warp, wherein all the other wefts are warp tissue points or weft tissue points and are not interwoven with the warp to form floating length; the float length is located entirely on the back or face of the fabric.
(3) Structure drawing of fabric with cut-pattern texture effect by tissue replacement
Firstly, determining the substitution relation between different gray levels in a gray image and weft-warp tissues in a photo tissue library according to the gray level characteristics of the gradual change of photo, and keeping the substitution relation unchanged, wherein the surface tissues of the non-clipping part are not cut;
backing the warp-faced tissue with the most warp tissue points in the lining tissue photo-tissue bank;
replacing the gray level and the shadow light organization in the finished gray level image one by one to obtain a non-clipping fabric structure diagram;
filling the weave structure of the pure color part of the pattern and the weave of the cut-flower part correspondingly to form a fabric structure chart of the cut-flower part,
the fabric structure diagram with the cut-flower texture effect, which comprises the non-cut-flower part fabric structure diagram and the cut-flower part fabric structure diagram, is obtained by the scheme.
(4) The fabric structure diagram with the effect of cutting patterns obtained according to the scheme is produced: setting a proper warp and weft density, adding weft selection information to the fabric structure diagram, and selecting proper warps and wefts according to the texture color effect set in the digital pattern design process, wherein the fabric structure diagram with the shearing texture effect is used for producing the jacquard fabric with the unique shearing effect.
(5) Trimming floating length treatment
And (4) carrying out float length trimming on the jacquard fabric according to the float length position of the jacquard fabric with the pattern shearing effect obtained in the step (4), trimming the float length of the weft of the pure-color part in the step (1) according to the design requirement, wherein the float length can be cut off completely, and tassels can also be left after the float length is cut off.
(6) And (3) according to the texture and layout effect of the fabric with the cut-flower texture effect after the superficial length treatment obtained in the step (5), keeping the position of the color image obtained in the step (1) unchanged when the color image is separated, and printing the surface of the jacquard fabric with the cut-flower texture effect.
The jacquard fabric surface developed by the technical scheme has the characteristics that the cut pattern texture and the printing color are matched with each other to represent the same digital pattern; the jacquard part shows the light and thin transparent effect or the floating effect of the cut-flower fabric, the printing part shows the colorful visual effect of the pattern by matching with the texture and the color of the jacquard, and the cut-flower texture and the printing color of the fabric surface can be perfectly combined and mutually matched to show the texture and the colorful effect of the same pattern because the cut-flower pattern, the non-cut-flower pattern and the printing pattern give consideration to the effect of the other side for processing the color relationship in the design process; under the constraint of the technical scheme, no matter how the subject matter of the digital pattern changes, the jacquard fabric can be used for designing the weaving and printing combined effect of the combination of the cut pattern texture and the printing color, so that the technical requirement of mass production can be met.
Drawings
FIG. 1 is a schematic flow chart of the design of the fabric of the present application;
FIG. 2 is a digital pattern layout of the present application;
FIG. 3 is a gray scale image of a design after the non-cut flower portion of the digital pattern is decolorized according to the present application;
FIG. 4 shows a printed pattern (with black and gray layers removed) after digital pattern adjustment according to the present application;
FIG. 5 is a schematic diagram of a basic organization A-based shadowgraph tissue library;
FIG. 6 is a partial effect diagram of a fabric construction having a cut pattern effect;
FIG. 7 is a diagram showing the local effect of the cut-flower fabric before the cut-flower fabric is trimmed;
FIG. 8 is a diagram showing the local effect of the trimmed fabric;
FIG. 9 is a view of a weaving and printing combined yarn-dyed cut-flower fabric object local effect;
FIG. 10 is an effect diagram of a conventional jacquard fabric;
FIG. 11 is a graph showing the effect of the jacquard fabric of the present application.
Detailed Description
The application is further explained by taking a weaving and printing combined jacquard fabric which is designed by adopting a black pure color background and 8 satin weaves and based on a clipping and carving process as an example, and a design flow is shown in figure 1: designing patterns, namely dividing the patterns into a jacquard layer pattern and a printing layer pattern in a layering manner, dividing the jacquard layer pattern into a cut-flower part and a non-cut-flower part, sinking the cut-flower part on the back of the fabric in an embossed manner, combining weaving and printing of the non-cut-flower part to design an organizational structure, and carrying out digital jacquard weaving and trimming of the cut-flower part and the non-cut-flower part to realize the embossed length; and the printed patterns of the printed layer are modified according to the effect of the jacquard fabric, and the finished jacquard fabric can be obtained by accurately positioning and printing.
Based on the above process, the specific operations are as follows:
1) FIG. 2 is a design original of a color digital pattern of the design, with dimensions 2400 x 2400 pixels; wherein the black pure color background is a pattern clipping part of the jacquard layer;
2) FIG. 3 is a gray scale image of the non-clipped part of FIG. 2 with color removed, the non-clipped part being a jacquard layer pattern with size 2400 pixels by 2400 pixels;
3) fig. 4 is a color drawing of fig. 2 with the pure black layer and the gray layer removed, which is a printed pattern and has a size of 2400 × 2400 pixels;
4) the jacquard layer weave design is carried out according to the patterns 2 and 3:
(1) according to the design requirements of a shadow-light tissue bank, 8 satins are selected as basic tissues, the shadow-light tissue bank of the 8 satins is designed, 8 fly-in satin tissues are selected, and the tissue with the starting point of the tissue being the lower left corner (warp, weft) ═ 1, 1 is selected as the basic tissue A; the basic tissues A are strengthened by 1 along the latitudinal direction one by one to the right, and a group of shadowy tissues is designed, wherein all tissues form a shadowy tissue bank, and the number of the shadowy tissues is 8 (8-2) + 1-49.
(2) And (3) carrying out the weave design of the shearing part, selecting plain weave for the ground weave at the interweaving position of the first weft and the warp, forming float length on the back of the fabric by using all the other wefts as warp weave points without interweaving with the warp, and finishing the weave design of the shearing part.
5) Structure drawing of fabric with cut-pattern texture effect by tissue replacement
Firstly, according to the gray level characteristics of the gray level image in the image 3, the level of the gray level image in the image 3 is adjusted to be not more than the designed number (namely 49) of the shadow texture, and the substitution relation between different gray level levels in the gray level image and the weft-warp texture in the shadow texture library is determined and kept unchanged. Replacing the gray scale and the shadow organization in the finished gray scale image one by one; and backing the 49 th 8 fly-warp satin weaves in the lining weave photography light weave library to form a non-cut-flower part fabric structure chart.
Filling the weave structure of the pattern pure color part and the cut-flower part corresponding to the weave of the pattern pure color part to form a cut-flower part fabric structure chart.
6) Setting a proper warp and weft density, selecting black nylon threads as warp threads, selecting black nylon threads as first weft, white silk threads as second weft and golden silk threads as third weft, wherein the fabric structure chart is used for producing the jacquard fabric with a unique shearing effect.
7) Carrying out float length trimming on the jacquard fabric according to the float length position of the jacquard fabric with the cut-flower effect obtained in the step 6), cutting off the float length of the weft of the black background part in the pattern along the outline of the pattern, and respectively showing the real object local effects of the cut-flower fabric before and after the float length trimming in fig. 7 and 8;
8) the position of the color pattern of the pattern 4 is kept unchanged when the color pattern is separated, the color pattern is used for surface printing of the cut-flower fabric after the float length trimming, the surface of the designed jacquard fabric has the characteristic that the weaving and printing are combined to express the simulation effect of the same pattern, the surface of the fabric has both the cutting texture effect and the rich color effect, and the fabric effect is shown in fig. 9 and fig. 11.
Claims (3)
1. A weaving and printing combined jacquard fabric weaving method based on a clipping and printing process is characterized by comprising the following steps:
(1) designing a digital pattern: designing a digital pattern, wherein the digital pattern is divided into a printing layer pattern and a jacquard layer pattern, the printing layer pattern and the jacquard layer pattern have the same size, and the jacquard layer pattern is divided into a cut-flower part and a non-cut-flower part, wherein a pure color part in the digital pattern is the cut-flower part, a gray-scale image obtained by removing the pure color part and the gray-scale image in the digital pattern is the non-cut-flower part, and a color image obtained by removing the pure color part and the gray-scale image in the digital pattern is the printing layer pattern;
(2) designing a jacquard layer structure:
firstly, designing a photoplotting tissue library aiming at non-clipping flower parts, selecting a basic tissue A, wherein the effective selection range of the basic tissue A is twill or satin of the original non-clipping flower part tissue, the number of cycles of the warp and weft tissue is the same and is recorded as M, M is between 5 and 48, the basic tissue A is reinforced by 1 along the weft direction towards the right to form a group of photoplotting tissues, all the tissues form the photoplotting tissue library, the number of the photoplotting tissues is M (M-2) +1,
secondly, carrying out organization design aiming at the cut-off part, selecting one of a plurality of wefts of the jacquard fabric as a first weft, drawing a ground part organization B at the interweaving position of the first weft and the warps, wherein all the other wefts except the first weft are warp organization points or weft organization points, and the wefts except the first weft are not interwoven with the warps and form a float length;
(3) designing a fabric structure diagram: decolorizing the digital pattern obtained in the step (1) to form a gray level image, adjusting the gray level to be not more than the number of photo-texture tissues, replacing the gray level in the gray level image and the photo-texture tissues one by one to form a non-cut-flower part fabric structure diagram, filling the texture structure of a pure color part of the pattern corresponding to the cut-flower part tissue to form the cut-flower part fabric structure diagram, wherein the acquisition mode of the non-cut-flower part fabric structure diagram is as follows:
surface organization of non-clipping flower part: determining the substitution relation between different gray levels in a gray map and weft-warp tissues in a shadow tissue library according to the gray characteristic of gradual change of shadow light, and keeping the substitution relation unchanged;
secondly, lining structure of non-clipping flower part: taking the warp-faced tissue with the most warp tissue points in the photo tissue bank for backing;
(4) weaving: selecting warps and wefts according to the texture color effect in the digital pattern design process, setting the density of the warps and the wefts according to the fabric structure diagram obtained in the steps (1) to (3), and weaving the fabric structure diagram with weft selection information to obtain a jacquard fabric with a cut-flower effect;
(5) and (3) carrying out clipping and floating length treatment: carrying out float length trimming on the jacquard fabric obtained in the step (4), wherein the float length trimming refers to trimming the float length of the weft of the pure-color part obtained in the step (1) according to design requirements;
(6) printing: and (3) according to the texture and layout effect of the jacquard fabric subjected to the float length treatment, keeping the position of the colored pattern obtained in the step (1) unchanged, and printing the surface of the jacquard fabric, namely finishing the weaving and printing of a finished product.
2. The weaving method of the weaving-printing combined jacquard fabric based on the clipping-flower process is characterized in that: in the step (2), the floating length is completely positioned on the back surface or the front surface of the fabric.
3. The weaving method of the weaving-printing combined jacquard fabric based on the clipping process is characterized in that in the step (5), the floating length clipping means that the floating length of the weft of the pure color part in the step (1) is completely clipped along the outline of the pattern, or the clipped part is left as tassels.
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| CN109965413A (en) * | 2019-03-20 | 2019-07-05 | 浙江理工大学 | A kind of two-sided silk muffler production method knitting print and combining |
| CN110281617B (en) * | 2019-07-17 | 2021-05-25 | 淄博佳润纺织有限公司 | One-step forming method for fringe decorative line of woven carpet |
| CN111621906A (en) * | 2020-04-26 | 2020-09-04 | 武汉裕大华纺织有限公司 | Jacquard sarro tissue variety and production process thereof |
| CN111560693B (en) * | 2020-05-08 | 2021-10-19 | 江苏凯达纺织有限公司 | Pure-color fabric |
| CN112226880A (en) * | 2020-10-13 | 2021-01-15 | 湖州丝艺丝绸股份有限公司 | Silk cut-flower fabric and production method thereof |
| CN115341323B (en) * | 2022-08-29 | 2023-09-19 | 浙江理工大学 | Preparation method of double-sided woven-printed combined fabric |
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| DE10321404A1 (en) * | 2003-05-12 | 2004-12-02 | Katharina Gun Oehlert | Work of painted paper art is incorporated on woven web panel of warp and weft threads |
| CN101423998B (en) * | 2008-12-04 | 2011-02-16 | 达利丝绸（浙江）有限公司 | Production method of figured cloth different from embroidery characteristics |
| CN103614846B (en) * | 2013-12-16 | 2015-04-29 | 南通纺织职业技术学院 | Warp shearing figured cloth fabric and manufacturing process thereof |
| CN104532439B (en) * | 2014-12-22 | 2016-04-06 | 浙江理工大学 | A kind ofly knit print in conjunction with jacquard fabric design method based on full colour developing structure |
| CN106222848A (en) * | 2016-08-26 | 2016-12-14 | 湖州永昌丝绸有限公司 | A kind of manufacture method of imitative lace jacquard weave cutting motif fabric |
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