CN109645611B

CN109645611B - Paper mold-based garment pleat pressing and shaping method

Info

Publication number: CN109645611B
Application number: CN201811636227.XA
Authority: CN
Inventors: 许旭兵; 李萌; 朱达辉; 周洪雷; 陈彬
Original assignee: Donghua University
Current assignee: Donghua University
Priority date: 2018-12-29
Filing date: 2018-12-29
Publication date: 2021-04-02
Anticipated expiration: 2038-12-29
Also published as: CN109645611A

Abstract

The invention relates to a ready-made clothes pleat molding method based on a paper mold. The method comprises the following steps: the clothes are put according to the horizontal and longitudinal shrinkage rates, cut and sewn to obtain ready-made clothes; designing a geometric figure of the required paper film, cutting, and folding along the trend of the figure to obtain a double-layer paper film; folding the ready-made clothes, placing the ready-made clothes in a double-layer paper film for seamless lamination, folding the ready-made clothes according to the geometric cutting trend of the paper film, tightening the ready-made clothes, shaping the ready-made clothes at a high temperature, and cooling the ready-made clothes. The method is convenient and rapid to operate, time-saving and labor-saving, does not need to be washed and contracted, saves machine and labor cost, has good economic benefit, is environment-friendly, is free from ironing, and is suitable for batch, large-scale and standardized production in the market.

Description

Paper mold-based garment pleat pressing and shaping method

Technical Field

The invention belongs to the field of textile fabric treatment, and particularly relates to a paper-mold-based garment pleat forming method.

Background

From the shape of the garment before pleating, the same kind of technology commonly applied in the garment industry at present is that the garment pieces are cut according to the model and then are pleated and then sewn into the garment, the pleat pressing method needs to reserve the amount of sewing on the garment pieces, and the surface shape of the pleated garment pieces is changed, so that the requirement on the sewing technology is quite high, huge manpower, material resources and financial resources are consumed, and the production cost is increased accordingly. The patent application No. 2017111389549 discloses a method for making a garment shape by manually folding a paper film, which makes various shapes of folds of the garment shape rich in variation, but increases the sewing difficulty, and the three-dimensional curved shape cannot be folded.

Disclosure of Invention

The invention aims to solve the technical problem of providing a paper mold-based garment pleat molding method so as to overcome the defects that in the prior art, pleated garments are difficult to sew and three-dimensional radian molding cannot be pleated.

The invention relates to a ready-made clothes pleat shaping method based on a paper mold, which comprises the following steps:

(1) the clothes are put according to the shrinkage of 1:1-1:2 in the transverse direction and the longitudinal direction, cut to obtain cut pieces, and sewn to obtain sewn ready-made clothes;

(2) designing a geometric figure of the required paper film, setting the distance between creases to be 1-1.5mm, cutting, and carrying out homeopathic folding along the trend of the creases to obtain a double-layer paper film which is arranged according to a certain geometric rule and has good elasticity;

(3) and (3) repeatedly folding the ready-made clothes sewn in the step (1) for multiple times according to a certain rule, placing the ready-made clothes in the double-layer paper film in the step (2) for seamless joint, folding according to the geometric cutting trend of the paper film, tightening, shaping at high temperature to enable the clothes to generate permanent fold textures, and cooling to obtain the folded clothes.

In the step (1), the sewing is performed by a diffraction sewing machine.

When the step (1) is performed, local sewing is performed, and the local sewing comprises: and stitching at least one of collar and sleeve.

The cutting in the step (2) is performed by using a laser cutting machine.

And (3) setting the temperature at the high temperature of 120-150 ℃ for 20 minutes.

The step (3) of folding according to the geometric cutting trend of the paper film refers to folding according to different geometric modeling trends of the paper film.

And (4) partially sewing the wrinkled clothes in the step (3) according to different design patterns of styles.

The local sewing comprises at least one or more of button nailing, zipper stitching and waistband stitching.

The invention firstly cuts the clothes in a release manner, then sews the clothes with a sewing machine, repeatedly folds the ready-made clothes for a plurality of times, places the ready-made clothes in a paper film for seamless joint, and finally shapes the ready-made clothes with a steam box at high temperature, thereby obtaining permanent fold texture.

Compared with the patent with the application number of 2017111389549, the single-piece garment pleating device has the advantages that the integral effect of the pleating texture is good, redundant sewing steps are omitted, time and labor are saved, the carrying is convenient, and the factory batch production is facilitated.

Advantageous effects

(1) The invention has the advantages of convenient and rapid operation, time and labor saving, no need of water washing shrinkage, machine and labor cost saving, good economic benefit, environmental protection, no need of ironing, and suitability for mass, large-scale and standardized production in the market.

(2) Compared with the common method which needs water washing shrinkage, the method of the invention does not need water washing, has simpler working procedure and enables the clothes fold effect to be more permanent through high temperature setting.

(3) The garment provided by the invention has good motility and variability, different human body dynamics and rich and variable fold forms; meanwhile, the good stretching ductility of the folded fabric enables people to relax and move a large amount of activities when wearing the folded fabric, is suitable for people of various body shapes and sizes, has good air permeability, is comfortable to wear, and is convenient for human body activities.

(4) The pleated garment prepared by the invention adopts a design without dart, and the human body curve is modified through the three-dimensional shape of the pleat, so that the flexible and multi-combination effect without dart is realized.

(5) Compared with the local pleating of the paper film, the invention has great progress in integrally pleating the ready-made clothes with the paper film, and solves the problem that the collar and the cuffs cannot be pleated originally. In general clothes, a collar and cuffs are three-dimensional and arc-shaped according to the three-dimensional shape of a human body, and cannot be folded. The invention changes the stereo collar and cuff into plane by improving the cutting structure of the innovative clothes (as shown in figure 5). Compared with the common cutting method with the radian of the collar and the cuffs, the invention directly changes the collar and the cuffs into the plane structure, and can also well fit the shapes of the collar and the cuffs of people by utilizing the three-dimensional space effect of folds. Not only keeps original clothing function, aesthetic feeling function, can accord with the technological requirement that the whole piece was creased again, carries out whole creased with the paper membrane of ready-made clothes, lets the wholeness of clothing, unity better, kills two birds with one stone, labour saving and time saving is innovated practicality again.

(6) The ready-made clothes provided by the invention has good integrity, solves the problem of difficulty in sewing clothes pieces after being wrinkled, is convenient to store, has rich changes according to different designs of paper films, has good overall effect, and is convenient to carry.

Drawings

FIG. 1 is a figure showing the texture of the V-shaped folds in example 1.

Figure 2 is a wrinkle texture map of a wrinkled garment of example 1.

Fig. 3 is a view showing the texture of the folds in a circular shape in example 2.

Figure 4 is a wrinkle texture map of a wrinkled garment of example 2.

Fig. 5 is a cut-out view of a conventional sleeve (a), a sleeve (b) in example 2, a conventional collar (c), and a collar (d) in example 2.

Figure 6 is a wrinkle texture map of a wrinkled garment of comparative example 1.

Detailed Description

The invention will be further illustrated with reference to the following specific examples. It should be understood that these examples are for illustrative purposes only and are not intended to limit the scope of the present invention. Further, it should be understood that various changes or modifications of the present invention may be made by those skilled in the art after reading the teaching of the present invention, and such equivalents may fall within the scope of the present invention as defined in the appended claims.

Example 1

(1) The method comprises the following steps of (1) putting the clothes according to the shrinkage of the clothes in the transverse direction and the longitudinal direction at a ratio of 1:1.4, cutting to obtain front and rear cut pieces, and sewing the front and rear cut pieces by using a sewing machine according to the design structure of the style to obtain a sewn ready-made clothes;

(2) the V-shaped graph of the required paper film is designed by a computer, every four independent creases form a V-shaped geometric basic unit, the longitudinal distance of the creases is set to be 1.2mm, and the paper film is cut by a computer laser machine. The paper film is folded along the trend to obtain the paper film arranged according to the V-shaped geometric rule, the flexibility is good, the paper film is more common, the geometric fold texture rule is arranged, the paper film is novel and unique, and the three-dimensional modeling sense is prominent;

(3) folding the ready-made clothes obtained in the step (1) in half and 4 times transversely and longitudinally respectively, placing the ready-made clothes in a double-layer paper mold for seamless joint, pushing and folding the ready-made clothes according to the V-shaped trend of the paper mold, and winding and tightening the ready-made clothes by using a rope; placing in a steam box for high-temperature shaping, adjusting the temperature of the steam box to 130 ℃, keeping the temperature for 20min, enabling the clothes to generate permanent wrinkle textures, and naturally cooling to obtain the wrinkled clothes with V-shaped geometric shapes; compared with the common method which needs water washing shrinkage, the method does not need water washing, has simpler working procedures and ensures that the clothes crease effect is more permanent by high-temperature shaping.

Example 2

(1) The method comprises the following steps of (1) putting the clothes according to the shrinkage of the clothes in the transverse direction and the longitudinal direction at a ratio of 1:1.4, cutting the clothes to obtain front and rear cut pieces, sewing the front and rear cut pieces by using a sewing machine according to the design structure of the style, and partially sewing sleeves and a collar to obtain a sewn ready-made clothes;

(2) the computer designs the circular arc line figure of the required paper film, each arc line is arranged at equal intervals, the distance is set to be 1.2mm, and the cutting is carried out by a computer laser machine. The paper film is folded along the arc-shaped trend to obtain a circular paper film which is coiled in a vortex curve shape, has good elasticity, is arranged according to a circular fold texture rule compared with a common paper film, is novel and unique, and has prominent three-dimensional modeling sense;

(3) folding the ready-made clothes obtained in the step (1) in half according to the back center line, respectively folding the left sleeve and the right sleeve on the upper front piece and the lower front piece, folding the whole clothes into a complete front piece shape, placing the clothes into a double-layer paper mold for seamless joint, pushing the clothes to be folded according to the circular trend of the paper film, and winding and tightening the clothes by using a rope; placing in a steam box for high-temperature shaping, adjusting the temperature of the steam box to 150 ℃, keeping the temperature for 20min to enable the clothes to generate permanent wrinkle textures, and naturally cooling to obtain wrinkled clothes with circular geometric shapes; compared with the common method which needs water washing shrinkage, the method does not need water washing, has simpler working procedures and ensures that the clothes crease effect is more permanent by high-temperature shaping.

Comparative example 1

(1) And cutting the transverse direction and the longitudinal direction of the clothes according to the setting amount of 1:1.5 and 1:1 respectively to obtain the cut pieces.

(2) And (2) making an upper layer of paper film and a lower layer of paper film by using the hard paperboard according to the designed geometric pleated pattern, wherein the paper films are slightly larger than the garment pieces in the step (1), and performing high-temperature shaping on the paper films by using steam at the temperature of 110 ℃ to obtain two layers of expanded paper films.

(3) Putting the garment piece in the step (1) between the two layers of paper films unfolded in the step (2), folding the paper films and the garment piece along with the pleat shape, fixing the paper films by using ropes, putting the fixed paper films in a steam box for high-temperature shaping, adjusting the temperature to 110 ℃ and keeping the temperature for 20 minutes to shape, taking out the paper films, naturally cooling, and cooling until the hand feeling is normal to obtain the shaped paper films.

(4) Repeating the step (2) and the step (3) on the garment piece in the step (1), taking out the garment piece from the paper mold shaped in the step (3), and sewing by using a sewing machine to obtain a wrinkled garment; according to the design style, the local sewing of the nail button, the sleeve and the like is added, and the softening agent is used for soaking and softening, so that the manufacturing and processing are completed.

Fig. 6 is a fold texture chart of the comparative example, which is compared with example 1, and is also a pattern of V-shaped figure folds, in example 1, because the finished garment is folded, the cutting of cuffs is changed, two cut pieces are folded directly after being sewn, the redundant sewing step and folding step are omitted, the cuffs are shaped to fit, the fold texture of the cuffs is integrated with the garment body, the overall effect is good, and the factory batch production is facilitated. At the interface of the cuff and the coat body in the comparison example, the fold texture is unnatural, the integrity effect is poor, and the later sewing step is redundant, time-consuming and labor-consuming.

Claims

1. A ready-made clothes pleat shaping method based on a paper mold comprises the following steps:

(1) the clothes are put according to the shrinkage of 1:1-1:2 in the transverse direction and the longitudinal direction, cut to obtain cut pieces, sewn, and the neckline and the cuffs are directly changed into a planar structure to obtain sewn ready-made clothes;

(2) designing a geometric figure of the required paper film, setting the distance between creases to be 1-1.5mm, cutting, and carrying out homeopathic folding along the trend of the creases to obtain a double-layer paper film arranged according to a certain geometric rule;

(3) and (3) folding the ready-made clothes sewn in the step (1), placing the ready-made clothes in the step (2) into the double-layer paper film for seamless lamination, folding according to the geometric cutting trend of the paper film, tightening, shaping at high temperature, and cooling to obtain the folded clothes.

2. The method according to claim 1, wherein the stitching in step (1) is performed by partial stitching, the partial stitching comprising: and stitching at least one of collar and sleeve.

3. The method of claim 1, wherein the cutting in step (2) is with a laser cutter.

4. The method according to claim 1, wherein the high-temperature setting temperature in the step (3) is 120-150 ℃ and the high-temperature setting time is 20 minutes.

5. The method according to claim 1, wherein the pleated garment in step (3) is partially sewn according to different design patterns of styles.

6. The method of claim 5, wherein the partial stitching comprises at least one of button tacking, zipper stitching, and waistband stitching.