CN109549864B - Emulsified spot-removing cosmetic and preparation method thereof - Google Patents
Emulsified spot-removing cosmetic and preparation method thereof Download PDFInfo
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- CN109549864B CN109549864B CN201910048169.7A CN201910048169A CN109549864B CN 109549864 B CN109549864 B CN 109549864B CN 201910048169 A CN201910048169 A CN 201910048169A CN 109549864 B CN109549864 B CN 109549864B
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/67—Vitamins
- A61K8/676—Ascorbic acid, i.e. vitamin C
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/49—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
- A61K8/4973—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with oxygen as the only hetero atom
- A61K8/498—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with oxygen as the only hetero atom having 6-membered rings or their condensed derivatives, e.g. coumarin
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
- A61K8/731—Cellulose; Quaternized cellulose derivatives
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
- A61Q19/02—Preparations for care of the skin for chemically bleaching or whitening the skin
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
- A61K2800/52—Stabilizers
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- General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
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Abstract
The invention discloses an emulsified spot-removing cosmetic which comprises the following components in parts by weight: 0.5-3 parts of ethyl ascorbic acid; 0.005-0.1 part of glabridin; 0.05-1 part of modified cellulose; 1-30 parts of oil; supplementing water to 100 parts; wherein, a pH buffer is used for adjusting the pH value to 4-5.5; the content of glycerides in the oil component is not less than 50% of the total oil component weight. The emulsified spot-removing cosmetic has the advantages of good system stability and stable ethyl ascorbic acid.
Description
Technical Field
The invention relates to the technical field of daily cosmetics, in particular to an emulsified freckle-removing cosmetic and a preparation method thereof.
Background
The skin is white and accords with the aesthetic feeling of Asians, and whitening and freckle removing products on the market always belong to popular requirements. The whitening raw materials on the market are various, the glabridin is a component extracted from the glabrous licorice, has strong anti-inflammatory and beautifying effects, has excellent tyrosinase activity inhibition function under the condition of very high dosage, is generally added in an amount of 0.001-0.01 percent, and is known as 'whitening gold' in the cosmetic industry. The glabridin has good stability and less use limitation, has excellent whitening effect and also has good protection effect on active ingredients which are easy to oxidize.
The other whitening raw material, namely vitamin C, is an excellent whitening and antioxidant raw material, but has a lot of limitations in use due to poor stability, so that the vitamin C is difficult to apply to common types of skin care products. 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid is an improved vitamin C derivative, well solves the problem of instability of vitamin C, and is generally used in skin care products in an amount of 1-3%. 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid exhibits excellent stability at pH 4.0-5.5, can be stable in aqueous solutions, and can maintain color and content stability in some lotion type formulations. However, the 3-o-ethyl ascorbic acid and some amines, amino acids and other components can generate ascorbic acid browning to cause color change, and the components can also generate some discoloration stability problems when coexisting with thickening components such as acrylic acid, so that various poor stability conditions exist in the formula of the emulsion type. Thus, the stability of 3-o-ethyl ascorbic acid cannot be maintained simply by adjusting the pH in an emulsion-type formulation. Poor system stability of the emulsion can also lead to instability of the 3-o-ethyl ascorbic acid.
Disclosure of Invention
The invention aims to provide an emulsion type freckle-removing cosmetic which has excellent system stability, maintains the stability of 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid in a system, and ensures the whitening performance and the storage performance of the cosmetic.
The invention also aims to provide a preparation method of the emulsified freckle-removing cosmetic.
The invention is realized by the following technical scheme.
An emulsified spot-removing cosmetic is characterized by comprising the following components in parts by weight:
0.5-3 parts of ethyl ascorbic acid;
0.005-0.1 part of glabridin;
0.05-1 part of modified cellulose;
1-30 parts of oil;
supplementing water to 100 parts;
wherein, a pH buffer is used for adjusting the pH value to 4-5.5; the content of glycerides in the oil component is not less than 50% of the total oil component weight.
The purpose of the content of glycerides in the oil component accounting for not less than 50 percent of the total weight of the oil component is to control the density of the oil component in the cosmetic, to enable the density of the oil component to be closer to the density of water, and to reduce the risk of layering and emulsion breaking. The density of the glycerides is generally in the range from 0.9 to 1.1g/cm3And can obtainThe pure natural raw materials are obtained, so that the good system stability is achieved, and the stability of the ethyl ascorbic acid is improved. However, some phenyl silicone oils having this density range are not easily emulsified due to their large molecular weight and molecular structure relative to glycerides.
The ethyl ascorbic acid is selected from 3-o-ethyl ascorbic acid, and the molecular formula of the 3-o-ethyl ascorbic acid is shown below.
The glabridin is an extract of glycyrrhiza glabra, is a natural antioxidant and a whitening agent, and is calculated by active matter content in parts by weight, for example, raw materials with other purities of 10%, 40% and the like are used, and the corresponding addition amount needs to be adjusted. The addition amount of claim is converted to pure glabridin. The molecular formula of glabridin is as follows:
the modified cellulose is selected from one or more of hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose stearyloxy ether, hydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose and hydroxyethyl ethyl cellulose.
Since general emulsion cosmetics are more stable when the viscosity is high, it is often necessary to formulate a large amount of a thickener, particularly a thickener such as acrylic acid.
In general emulsion cosmetics, an acrylic thickener is most effective, but in the formulation of the present invention, it causes a color change due to browning of ascorbic acid with 3-o-ethyl ascorbic acid, and in the coexistence of a thickening component such as acrylic acid, some problems of color change stability occur. In addition, the thickening effect of modified cellulose alone in emulsion-type cosmetics is not satisfactory, and it is used only as an auxiliary thickener. In the formula, the grease with specific density is compounded (the weight of glyceride in the oil component is not less than 50 percent of the total oil component, and preferably the glycerolThe density of esters is higher than 0.9g/cm3) The thickening effect of the modified cellulose is improved to a certain extent, and the addition amount of the modified cellulose is greatly reduced. That is, the emulsion formulation of the present invention has a system viscosity of about 1000mPa · s, and thus can achieve good system stability.
The pH buffer combination comprises one or more of citric acid (or salt thereof), lactic acid (or salt thereof), succinic acid (or salt thereof), phosphoric acid (or salt thereof) and the like.
The glyceride is at least one of caprylic acid/capric acid/succinic acid triglyceride, caprylic acid/capric acid/myristic acid/stearic acid triglyceride, caprylic acid/capric acid/linoleic acid triglyceride, caprylic acid/capric acid/stearic acid triglyceride, caprylic acid/capric acid/lauric acid triglyceride, caprylic acid/capric acid triglyceride and glyceride of animal or plant origin.
Preferably, the density of the glyceride is more than or equal to 0.9g/cm3。
Also comprises at least one of alkane, straight chain or branched chain synthetic ester and silicone oil.
The formulation of the present invention also includes pentasodium pentetate.
The preparation method of the emulsified spot-removing cosmetic comprises the following steps:
preparing an aqueous phase:
(1) adding modified cellulose into water, heating to 80-90 deg.C, and stirring to dissolve;
(2) adding a pH buffering agent and a humectant, and uniformly stirring and mixing for later use;
preparing an oil phase:
(3) heating the weighed oil phase materials to 70-80 ℃, and uniformly stirring and mixing for later use;
mixing the water phase and the oil phase:
(4) continuously stirring the water phase obtained in the step (2), slowly adding the oil phase obtained in the step (3), stirring uniformly, and homogenizing;
(5) continuously stirring the materials obtained in the step (4), and cooling to 40-50 ℃ after uniformly stirring;
(6) adding components such as ethyl ascorbic acid, glabridin and the like into the material obtained in the step (5), and uniformly stirring;
(7) and (4) sampling the material obtained in the step (6), and carrying out micro-inspection to obtain a qualified product.
The invention has the following beneficial effects
First, the present invention ensures the basic stability of 3-o-ethyl ascorbic acid stability by forming a stable emulsion type cosmetic system using an oil component of a specific formulation and modified cellulose at a stable pH of 3-o-ethyl ascorbic acid. Furthermore, by selecting a glyceride with a specific density, the system is more stable.
Detailed Description
The present invention is further illustrated by, but is not limited to, the following examples.
The raw materials used in the present invention are derived from commercially available products.
Diphenylsiloxyphenyl trimethicones: the density is 0.990-1.005g/cm3。
Glycerol stearate: this is a water-in-oil emulsifier, and is not used herein as an oil emollient.
Glycerol tri (ethyl hexanoate) ester: 0.945-0.955g/cm3。
Caprylic/capric/succinic triglycerides: 1.000-1.020 g/cm3。
Examples and comparative examples preparation method of emulsion type cosmetic: (1) adding modified cellulose into water, heating to 80-90 deg.C, and stirring to dissolve; (2) adding a pH buffering agent and a humectant, and uniformly stirring and mixing for later use; preparing an oil phase: (3) heating the weighed oil phase materials to 70-80 ℃, and uniformly stirring and mixing for later use;
mixing the water phase and the oil phase: (4) continuously stirring the water phase obtained in the step (2), slowly adding the oil phase obtained in the step (3), stirring uniformly, and homogenizing; (5) continuously stirring the materials obtained in the step (4), and cooling to 40-50 ℃ after uniformly stirring; (6) adding components such as ethyl ascorbic acid, glabridin and the like into the material obtained in the step (5), and uniformly stirring; (7) and (4) sampling the material obtained in the step (6), and carrying out micro-inspection to obtain a qualified product.
The performance test method comprises the following steps:
(1) the pH value of the system is as follows: the measurement is carried out by a dilution method by using a pH meter according to the requirements of technical Specification for safety of cosmetics.
(2) System stability (storage stability, residual ratio of ascorbic acid): storage stability: standing the sample in an environment of 40 ℃ and 50 ℃, preserving heat for 1 month and 3 months, and timing and observing the appearance within the period of time; residual ratio of ascorbic acid: and calibrating the content of the ascorbic acid by methods such as an ultraviolet spectrophotometry and the like.
Table 1: examples formula (parts by weight) of emulsified spot-removing cosmetic and results of various performance tests thereof
| Composition (I) | Example 1 | Example 2 | Example 3 |
| Water (W) | to100 | to100 | to100 |
| Hydroxypropyl methylcellulose stearyl oxy ether | 0.2 | 0.2 | 0.3 |
| Pentetate pentasodium salt | 0.1 | 0.1 | 0.1 |
| Butanediol | 8 | 8 | 8 |
| Glycerol | 2 | 2 | 2 |
| Citric acid | 0.1 | 0.1 | 0.1 |
| Citric acid sodium salt | 0.15 | 0.2 | 0.15 |
| Glycerol stearate | 0.5 | 0.5 | 1 |
| Glycerol tri (ethylhexanoate) ester | 3 | - | 6 |
| Caprylic/capric/succinic triglycerides | 6 | 8 | 10 |
| PEG-60 hydrogenated Castor oil | 1 | 1 | 1.5 |
| Squalane | 1 | 1 | 4 |
| Tocopherol (vitamin E) | 0.1 | 0.1 | 0.1 |
| 3-O-Ethylascorbic acid | 1 | 2 | 1 |
| Glabridin | 0.005 | 0.005 | 0.01 |
| pH value | 5.0 | 5.2 | 5.0 |
| Stability (50 ℃, 1 month) | Good, very light yellow | Good, very light yellow | Good, no obvious discoloration |
| Stability (40 ℃, 3 months) | Good, no obvious discoloration | Good, no obvious discoloration | Good, no obvious discoloration |
| Residual ratio of ascorbic acid (%) | 91 | 92 | 93 |
Table 2: formula (weight portion) of comparative emulsified spot-removing cosmetic and test result of various performances thereof
| Composition (I) | Comparative example 1 | Comparative example 2 | Comparative example 3 | Comparative example 4 |
| Water (W) | to100 | to100 | to100 | to100 |
| Hydroxypropyl methylcellulose stearyl oxy ether | 0.2 | - | - | 0.2 |
| Pentetate pentasodium salt | 0.1 | 0.1 | 0.1 | 0.1 |
| Polyacrylamide sodium salt | - | 0.2 | - | |
| Acryloyldimethyl ammonium taurate/VP copolymer | - | - | 0.2 | - |
| Butanediol | 8 | 8 | 8 | 8 |
| Glycerol | 2 | 2 | 2 | 2 |
| Citric acid | 0.1 | 0.1 | 0.1 | 0.1 |
| Citric acid sodium salt | 0.15 | 0.15 | 0.15 | 0.15 |
| Diphenylsiloxyphenyl trimethicones | - | - | - | 6 |
| Glycerol stearate | 0.5 | 0.5 | 0.5 | - |
| Caprylic/capric/succinic triglycerides | - | 6 | 6 | - |
| Glycerol tri (ethylhexanoate) ester | 1 | 3 | 3 | 3 |
| PEG-60 hydrogenated Castor oil | 1 | 1 | 1 | 1 |
| Squalane | 4 | 1 | 1 | 1 |
| Tocopherol (vitamin E) | 0.1 | 0.1 | 0.1 | 0.1 |
| 3-O-Ethylascorbic acid | 1 | 1 | 1 | 1 |
| Glabridin | 0.005 | 0.005 | 0.005 | 0.005 |
| pH value | 5.0 | 5.0 | 5.0 | 5.0 |
| Stability (50 ℃, 1 month) | Delamination, very slight yellowing | Obvious yellowing | Obvious yellowing | Delamination, very slight yellowing |
| Stability (40 ℃, 3 months) | Delamination, very slight yellowing | Yellowing of | Yellowing of | Delamination, very slight yellowing |
| Residual ratio of ascorbic acid (%) | 90 | 70 | 70 | 91 |
As can be seen from example 1 and comparative example 4, the use of a silicone-like oil component in place of a glycerin-based oil component results in an unstable emulsion and easy delamination.
As can be seen from example 1 and comparative examples 2 and 3, the use of an acrylic thickener causes yellowing.
It can be seen from example 1 and comparative example 1 that less than 50% of glycerides based on the total oil content results in poor system stability.
Claims (6)
1. An emulsified spot-removing cosmetic is characterized by comprising the following components in parts by weight:
0.5-3 parts of ethyl ascorbic acid;
0.005-0.1 part of glabridin;
0.05-1 part of modified cellulose;
oil content 9-30 parts;
supplementing water to 100 parts;
wherein, a pH buffer is used for adjusting the pH value to 4-5.5; the content of glycerides in the oil component is not less than 50% of the total oil component weight;
the ethyl ascorbic acid is selected from 3-o-ethyl ascorbic acid;
the glycerides are at least one selected from caprylic acid/capric acid/succinic acid triglyceride, caprylic acid/capric acid/myristic acid/stearic acid triglyceride, caprylic acid/capric acid/linoleic acid triglyceride, caprylic acid/capric acid/stearic acid triglyceride, caprylic acid/capric acid/lauric acid triglyceride, caprylic acid/capric acid triglyceride and glyceride of animal or plant origin, and the density of the glycerides is more than or equal to 0.9g/cm3。
2. The emulsified spot-removing cosmetic as claimed in claim 1, wherein the glabridin is an extract of glycyrrhiza glabra.
3. The emulsified spot-removing cosmetic as claimed in claim 1, wherein the modified cellulose is one or more selected from hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose stearyloxy ether, hydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose and hydroxyethyl ethyl cellulose.
4. The emulsified spot-removing cosmetic as claimed in claim 1, wherein the pH buffer composition comprises one or more of citric acid, citrate, lactic acid, lactate, succinic acid, succinate, phosphoric acid, phosphate, etc.
5. The emulsified spot-removing cosmetic according to claim 1, further comprising at least one of an alkane, a linear or branched synthetic ester, and a silicone oil.
6. The method for preparing an emulsified spot-removing cosmetic according to claim 1, comprising the steps of:
preparing an aqueous phase:
(1) adding modified cellulose into water, heating to 80-90 deg.C, and stirring to dissolve;
(2) adding a pH buffering agent and a humectant, and uniformly stirring and mixing for later use;
preparing an oil phase:
(3) heating the weighed oil phase materials to 70-80 ℃, and uniformly stirring and mixing for later use;
mixing the water phase and the oil phase:
(4) continuously stirring the water phase obtained in the step (2), slowly adding the oil phase obtained in the step (3), stirring uniformly, and homogenizing;
(5) continuously stirring the materials obtained in the step (4), and cooling to 40-50 ℃ after uniformly stirring;
(6) adding components such as ethyl ascorbic acid, glabridin and the like into the material obtained in the step (5), and uniformly stirring;
(7) and (4) sampling the material obtained in the step (6), and carrying out micro-inspection to obtain a qualified product.
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| CN109549864B true CN109549864B (en) | 2022-03-29 |
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| WO2021049775A1 (en) * | 2019-09-11 | 2021-03-18 | ㈜아모레퍼시픽 | Additive composition for preventing vitamin c precipitation |
| CN114983836A (en) * | 2022-06-15 | 2022-09-02 | 广州陶妆生物科技有限公司 | Repairing type freeze-dried wadding and preparation method thereof |
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