CN109453065B - Fresh water-in-oil type sunscreen cream with high SPF/PA value and preparation method thereof - Google Patents

Fresh water-in-oil type sunscreen cream with high SPF/PA value and preparation method thereof Download PDF

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CN109453065B
CN109453065B CN201811635411.2A CN201811635411A CN109453065B CN 109453065 B CN109453065 B CN 109453065B CN 201811635411 A CN201811635411 A CN 201811635411A CN 109453065 B CN109453065 B CN 109453065B
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zinc oxide
titanium dioxide
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CN109453065A (en
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钟晓明
何杨鹏
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Guangzhou Huaxi Biotechnology Co ltd
Huanan Industrial Technology Research Institute of Zhejiang University
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Huanan Industrial Technology Research Institute of Zhejiang University
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/8141Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A61K8/8158Homopolymers or copolymers of amides or imides, e.g. (meth) acrylamide; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/06Emulsions
    • A61K8/064Water-in-oil emulsions, e.g. Water-in-silicone emulsions
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/27Zinc; Compounds thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/29Titanium; Compounds thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/37Esters of carboxylic acids
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89Polysiloxanes
    • A61K8/891Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q17/00Barrier preparations; Preparations brought into direct contact with the skin for affording protection against external influences, e.g. sunlight, X-rays or other harmful rays, corrosive materials, bacteria or insect stings
    • A61Q17/04Topical preparations for affording protection against sunlight or other radiation; Topical sun tanning preparations
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/41Particular ingredients further characterized by their size
    • A61K2800/413Nanosized, i.e. having sizes below 100 nm
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/48Thickener, Thickening system

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Abstract

The invention provides a refreshing water-in-oil type sun cream with a high SPF/PA value, which comprises the following components in parts by weight: 5-20 parts of hydrophobically modified titanium dioxide or zinc oxide, 3-4 parts of a sodium acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer/isohexadecane/polysorbate-80 mixture and 15-25 parts of emollient oil. The water-in-oil sunscreen cream of the present invention is emulsified by the surface activity of the hydrophobically modified nano-sized titanium dioxide or hydrophobically modified zinc oxide particles. Meanwhile, a thickening agent is added into the water phase to assist in stabilization, and the water phase thickening agent generally has a relatively fresh skin feeling unlike an oil phase thickening agent, so that the water-in-oil type sunscreen cream with the fresh skin feeling and the high SPF/PA value is prepared.

Description

Fresh water-in-oil type sunscreen cream with high SPF/PA value and preparation method thereof
Technical Field
The invention belongs to the field of cosmetics, and particularly relates to a refreshing water-in-oil type sun cream with a high SPF/PA value and a preparation method thereof.
Background
Titanium dioxide and zinc oxide of the inorganic sunscreen agent are insoluble particles which are dispersed in the water phase of the cosmetic and can be agglomerated during the process of being applied on the skin, thereby greatly reducing the sunscreen effect. Titanium dioxide or zinc oxide for use in sunscreen cosmetics therefore generally employs hydrophobically modified nanoscale particles which are then dispersed in the oil phase of the cosmetic. The SPF and PA values of the formulations are low due to the oil-in-water sunscreen. Sunscreen cosmetics which achieve high SPF and PA values are usually prepared in water-in-oil formulations. Water-in-oil sunscreen cosmetics generally fall into two categories: (1) sun cream; (2) the sun-screening lotion needs to be shaken well before use. Sunscreen creams having a refreshing skin feel are abundant, and sunscreen creams often exhibit a heavy skin feel.
However, in the water-in-oil sunscreen cream, more water-in-oil emulsifier is added to keep the system stable and the water-phase emulsified particles are not agglomerated, and more semisolid oil or other oil-phase thickening agent is added to keep the system stable due to the higher content of the oil phase. However, this approach resulted in a sunscreen having a thick, sticky skin feel.
Therefore, the problem to be solved in the field is to find a refreshing water-in-oil sunscreen cream which is not sticky and has a high SPF/PA value.
Disclosure of Invention
The invention provides a refreshing water-in-oil type sun cream with a high SPF/PA value.
In order to realize the purpose of the invention, the technical scheme adopted by the invention is as follows: a refreshing water-in-oil type sunscreen cream with a high SPF/PA value comprises the following components in parts by weight: 5-20 parts of hydrophobically modified titanium dioxide or zinc oxide, 5-20 parts of sodium acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer/isohexadecane/polysorbate-803-4 parts, and 15-25 parts of emollient oil.
Sodium acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer/isohexadecane/polysorbate-80 is a mixture and is commercially available as SIMUGEL EG from SEPPIC. Compared with the traditional acrylic acid thickening agent, the acrylic acid thickening agent has good electrolyte resistance and interface adsorption capacity, also has good metal ion resistance, is not easy to form a metal complex, and has better compatibility with inorganic sunscreen powder.
Preferably, the mass ratio of the titanium dioxide or the zinc oxide to the emollient oil is 1: 1-1.5.
Preferably, the titanium dioxide is aluminum hydroxide and stearic acid treated titanium dioxide, polydimethylsiloxane treated titanium dioxide.
Preferably, the zinc oxide is triethoxyoctylsilane treated zinc oxide, hydrogenated polydimethylsiloxane treated zinc oxide.
Preferably, the emollient oil is one of ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, octocrylene, homosalate, ethylhexyl salicylate, polydimethylsiloxane, cyclopentadimethylsiloxane, octylpolydimethylsiloxane, isononyl isononanoate, isotridecanol isononanoate, ethylhexyl palmitate, cetyl ethylhexanoate, tri (ethylhexanoate), caprylic/capric triglyceride, or any combination thereof.
Preferably, the refreshing type high SPF/PA value water-in-oil sun cream comprises the following components in parts by weight: 20 parts of hydrogenated polydimethylsiloxane treated zinc oxide, 10 parts of polydimethylsiloxane, 10 parts of isononyl isononanoate and 3 parts of a sodium acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer/isohexadecane/polysorbate-80 mixture.
The invention also provides a preparation method of the refreshing water-in-oil type sunscreen cream with high SPF/PA value, which comprises the following steps:
(1) firstly, dispersing hydrophobically modified titanium dioxide or zinc oxide in emollient grease under the condition of high-speed homogenization to form powder slurry;
(2) and (3) adding the thickened sodium acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer/isohexadecane/polysorbate-80 mixture into the slurry obtained in the step (1) under the dispersion condition, and homogenizing until the surface of the paste is smooth.
The invention has the beneficial effects that: the water-in-oil sunscreen cream provided by the invention is emulsified (i.e. Pickering emulsification) by utilizing the surface activity of the hydrophobically modified nano-sized titanium dioxide or hydrophobically modified zinc oxide particles without adding a traditional water-in-oil emulsifier. Meanwhile, a thickening agent (a mixture of sodium acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer/isohexadecane/polysorbate-80) is added into the water phase to assist in stabilization, and unlike the oil phase thickening agent, the water phase thickening agent generally has a relatively fresh skin feel, so that the water-in-oil type sunscreen cream with the high SPF/PA value and the fresh skin feel is prepared.
Drawings
FIG. 1 is a microscope photograph of a sample of sunscreen of the present invention.
FIG. 2 is a polarizing microscope photograph of a sample of sunscreen of the present invention.
Detailed Description
In order to more concisely and clearly demonstrate technical solutions, objects and advantages of the present invention, the following detailed description of the present invention is provided with reference to specific embodiments and accompanying drawings.
Examples 1-4 and comparative example 1 sunscreen cosmetic formulations, as shown in table 1:
Figure GDA0003325055230000031
Figure GDA0003325055230000041
example 5
This example provides a method for preparing a refreshing, high SPF/PA water-in-oil sunscreen cream, comprising the steps of:
(1) 15 parts of aluminum hydroxide and stearic acid-treated titanium dioxide or triethoxyoctylsilane-treated zinc oxide are firstly dispersed in emollient oil under the condition of high-speed homogenization to form powder slurry, wherein the emollient oil comprises the following components in parts by weight: 5 parts of ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, 5 parts of homosalate, 6 parts of cyclopentadimethicone, 1 part of octyl dimethicone, and 5 parts of cetyl ethylhexanoate;
(2) and (2) adding 3 parts of the thickened sodium acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer/isohexadecane/polysorbate-80 mixture into the powder slurry obtained in the step (1) under a dispersing condition, and homogenizing until the surface of the paste is smooth to obtain the sunscreen cream.
The performance of the sunscreens prepared in examples 1 to 4 and comparative example 1 were compared, with comparative example 1 using the same sunscreen and emollient oils as in example 4, except that comparative example 1 used a conventional oil phase thickener and water-in-oil emulsifier (such as glyceryl behenate/eicosanoate and lauryl alcohol PEG-9 dimethiconoethyl dimethicone) to stabilize the sunscreen, while example 4 used an aqueous phase thickener to stabilize the sunscreen. Skin feeling test 0.2g of each of 10 volunteers was applied to the back of the hand at about 100cm2The skin feel is judged and the score is given by blind test in the area (2), and the average value is taken. The results are shown in table 2:
table 2: performance results for sunscreen creams prepared in examples 1-4 and comparative example 1
Figure GDA0003325055230000051
As can be seen from Table 2, the examples 1 to 4 of the present invention have the advantages of light texture, smooth paste, better extensibility and skin feel comparison results, and the use of the aqueous phase gelling agent to stabilize the water-in-oil type sunscreen cream can make the appearance of the sunscreen cream rougher than that of the conventional water-in-oil type sunscreen cream, but the skin feel sensed during the application process is more refreshing and has better extensibility, and meanwhile, the film feel and the oily light after the application are less, so that the requirements of the public on the skin feel of the sunscreen cream are met. The indexes of example 4 are all higher than those of other examples, so that it is the best implementation scheme of the present invention.
Generally, in the case of high content of titanium dioxide or zinc oxide as sunscreen agent, although part of the conventional acrylic thickener has excellent electrolyte resistance, a metal complex is formed due to a small amount of dissolved titanium ions or zinc ions, so that the structure is changed, the thickening ability is lost, and the viscosity of the system is reduced. However, compared with the traditional acrylic acid thickening agent (such as acrylic ester/C10-30 alkyl acrylate cross-linked polymer or polyacrylamide and the like), the sodium acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer/isohexadecane/polysorbate-80 adopted by the invention has good electrolyte resistance and interface adsorption capacity, also has good metal ion resistance, is not easy to form a metal complex, and has good compatibility with inorganic sunscreen powder.
As can be seen from fig. 1, the hydrogel particles having irregular shapes are dispersed in the oil phase, unlike the conventional right circular emulsified particles. As is obvious from the attached figure 2, the edge of the hydrogel particle has bright maltese cross halo, and other crystal structure substances do not exist in the system, so that the nano sunscreen agent particle can be proved to be really aggregated at an oil-water interface, has an emulsification stabilizing effect and can replace a water-in-oil emulsifier.
The above-mentioned embodiments only express several embodiments of the present invention, and the description thereof is more specific and detailed, but not construed as limiting the scope of the invention. It should be noted that, for a person skilled in the art, several variations and modifications can be made without departing from the inventive concept, which falls within the scope of the present invention. Therefore, the protection scope of the present patent shall be subject to the appended claims.

Claims (4)

1. The refreshing water-in-oil type sun cream with the high SPF/PA value is characterized by comprising the following components in parts by weight: 5-20 parts of hydrophobically modified titanium dioxide or zinc oxide, 3-4 parts of a mixture of sodium acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer/isohexadecane/polysorbate-80, 15-25 parts of emollient oil and the balance of water; the mass ratio of the titanium dioxide or the zinc oxide to the skin-moistening grease is 1: 1-1.5;
the hydrophobically modified titanium dioxide is titanium dioxide treated by aluminum hydroxide and stearic acid or titanium dioxide treated by polydimethylsiloxane; the hydrophobically modified zinc oxide is triethoxyoctylsilane treated zinc oxide or hydrogenated polydimethylsiloxane treated zinc oxide.
2. The refreshing, high SPF/PA water-in-oil sunscreen cream of claim 1 wherein said emollient oil is one of ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, octocrylene, homosalate, ethylhexyl salicylate, dimethicone, cyclopentadimethicone, octyldimethicone, isononyl isononanoate, isotridecanol isononanoate, ethylhexyl palmitate, cetyl ethylhexanoate, tri (ethylhexanoate), caprylic/capric triglyceride, or any combination thereof.
3. The refreshing, high SPF/PA water-in-oil sunscreen cream according to claim 1 comprising the following components in parts by weight: 20 parts of hydrogenated polydimethylsiloxane treated zinc oxide, 10 parts of polydimethylsiloxane, 10 parts of isononyl isononanoate and 3 parts of a sodium acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer/isohexadecane/polysorbate-80 mixture.
4. A method of preparing a refreshing high SPF/PA-value water-in-oil sunscreen according to any of claims 1 to 3, comprising the steps of:
(1) firstly, dispersing hydrophobically modified titanium dioxide or zinc oxide in emollient grease under the condition of high-speed homogenization to form powder slurry;
(2) and (3) adding the thickened sodium acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer/isohexadecane/polysorbate-80 mixture into the slurry obtained in the step (1) under the dispersion condition, and homogenizing until the surface of the paste is smooth.
CN201811635411.2A 2018-12-29 2018-12-29 Fresh water-in-oil type sunscreen cream with high SPF/PA value and preparation method thereof Active CN109453065B (en)

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CN113397992B (en) * 2021-07-12 2023-03-31 广州立白企业集团有限公司 Sunscreen composition and water-in-oil type emulsified cosmetic with sunscreen composition
CN114259428A (en) * 2021-12-31 2022-04-01 诺斯贝尔化妆品股份有限公司 Anhydrous sunscreen gel of pure physical sunscreen agent and preparation method thereof
CN115006311B (en) * 2022-07-06 2024-03-26 浙江宜格企业管理集团有限公司 Transparent double-phase sun-screening composition and preparation method thereof
CN115813786A (en) * 2022-12-23 2023-03-21 安庆科思化学有限公司 Water-resistant sunscreen composition with water outlet capacity and preparation method thereof

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