CN109393586B - Chinese style single large-front garment cutting method and garment - Google Patents

Chinese style single large-front garment cutting method and garment Download PDF

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CN109393586B
CN109393586B CN201811471283.2A CN201811471283A CN109393586B CN 109393586 B CN109393586 B CN 109393586B CN 201811471283 A CN201811471283 A CN 201811471283A CN 109393586 B CN109393586 B CN 109393586B
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garment
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curve
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CN109393586A (en
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赵萍
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41WEARING APPAREL
    • A41DOUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
    • A41D1/00Garments
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41WEARING APPAREL
    • A41HAPPLIANCES OR METHODS FOR MAKING CLOTHES, e.g. FOR DRESS-MAKING OR FOR TAILORING, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • A41H43/00Other methods, machines or appliances

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Abstract

The invention belongs to the technical field of garment manufacturing, and relates to a method for cutting a Chinese style single large-front garment with a flat center and a garment. The garment cutting method comprises the following steps: (a) firstly, folding the cloth in the warp direction, and then folding the cloth in the weft direction to obtain four layers of cloth; (b) moving the middle two layers of cloth in the four layers of cloth to enable the middle two layers of cloth and the outer two layers of cloth to form an inclined gap, wherein the width of the inclined gap is determined according to the shoulder inclination amount; (c) drawing a large front curve on a layer of cloth on the outer side, and cutting the large front along the curve; (d) the small front is opened and then folded back according to the crease of the two layers of cloth in the middle, so that the large front and the small front are partially overlapped; (e) the outline curve of the coat body is drawn on the layer of cloth on the outer side, and the coat body is cut along the curve. The invention can ensure that the front and back center lines of the coat body are not inclined vertically without changing the straight yarn direction of the warp yarns, not only can meet the requirement of enough overlapping amount between the large front and the small front, but also can have shoulder inclination amount, and has simple and convenient method and easy implementation.

Description

Chinese style single large-front garment cutting method and garment
Technical Field
The invention belongs to the technical field of garment manufacturing, and particularly relates to a Chinese single large-front garment cutting method and a garment.
Background
Chinese style clothes such as cheongsam belong to typical clothes of China, and the traditional style and the gorgeous embroidered characters of the Chinese style clothes are deeply loved by the masses of people, and the Chinese style clothes have the characteristics of showing out prosperity and elegance, being noble and modesty, showing out the quality of the gas, showing out the beautiful body and the like. The overlapping amount of the large front part, the large front part and the small front part of the cheongsam and the like are very important visual points of the cheongsam, how to achieve the effect that the large front part of the cheongsam is very straight, very thin and very stiff, and the large front part and the small front part have proper overlapping amount is a problem which needs to be considered preferentially in the manufacturing process of the cheongsam. Meanwhile, the shoulder shape of the garment is determined by the shoulder inclination amount, and the amount of the shoulder inclination amount is also important for the comfort of a human body, the design, the cutting and the manufacture of the garment.
Generally, the cutting method of Chinese style clothes is a one-piece plane folding cutting method, and the cutting of Chinese style large front garment is a bias cutting method in the times of China in the twentieth century in order to generate necessary overlapping amount and shoulder slant amount between the large front garment and the small front garment. The oblique cutting method is to incline the front and back central lines of the coat body and transfer the inclined amount between the large and small lappets to overlap the large and small lappets to form an inclined shoulder. However, the existing bias cutting method has the following disadvantages: on one hand, the method can cause the lower hem to be skewed, so that the middle straight line is skewed, and the visual aesthetic effect is influenced; on the other hand, this method is very difficult to handle for soft and smooth cloth material such as silk cloth material, i.e. it is difficult to convert such soft and smooth cloth material into oblique "straight line", which greatly affects the working efficiency and operability.
In view of this, the invention is particularly proposed.
Disclosure of Invention
The invention aims to provide a Chinese style single large front garment tailoring method, which can ensure that the front and back center lines of a garment body are not inclined vertically without changing the straight yarn direction of warp yarns, can meet the requirement of enough overlapping amount between the large front garment and the small front garment and the shoulder inclination amount, is simple and convenient, and can overcome the problems or at least partially solve the technical problems.
The second purpose of the invention is to provide a garment manufactured by the Chinese style single large-front garment cutting method.
In order to achieve the purpose, the invention adopts the technical scheme that:
according to one aspect of the invention, the invention provides a Chinese style single large-front garment cutting method, which comprises the following steps:
(a) firstly, folding the cloth in the warp direction, and then folding the cloth in the weft direction to obtain four layers of cloth;
(b) moving the middle two layers of cloth in the four layers of cloth to enable the middle two layers of cloth and the outer two layers of cloth to form an inclined gap, wherein the width of the inclined gap is determined according to the shoulder inclination amount;
(c) drawing a large front curve on a layer of cloth on the outer side, and cutting the large front along the large front curve;
(d) the small front is opened and then folded back according to the crease of the two layers of cloth in the middle, so that the large front and the small front are partially overlapped;
(e) and drawing a clothes body contour curve on the outer layer of cloth, and cutting along the clothes body contour curve.
As a further preferable technical scheme, in the step (a), the reverse side of the fabric is upward, then the fabric is folded in half according to the warp direction, and the folding line is the central line of the front and back garment pieces and is parallel to the warp direction of the fabric.
As a further preferable technical scheme, in the step (a), the fabric is folded in half in the weft yarn direction, the folding line is a shoulder line, four layers of the fabric are obtained, and then the folding seam is ironed.
As a further preferable technical scheme, in the step (b), the upper edge of the cloth is fixed, then the middle two layers of cloth in the four layers of cloth are pulled leftwards, and the outer two layers of cloth in the four layers of cloth are fixed, so that the middle two layers of cloth and the outer two layers of cloth form an inclined gap;
or the upper edges of the cloth materials are fixed, the middle two cloth materials in the four cloth materials are pulled leftwards, the outer two cloth materials in the four cloth materials are pulled rightwards, and an inclined gap is formed between the middle two cloth materials and the outer two cloth materials;
preferably, the upper edge of the cloth is held in place by needles.
As a further preferable mode, in the step (b), the shoulder inclination amount is set based on an empirical value;
and/or the shoulder inclination amount is parallel to the warp direction of the fabric;
preferably, the length of the shoulder slope is 0.4-1.6 cm, preferably 0.5-1.5 cm.
As a further preferred technical scheme, a step of forming a human body curve is included between the step (b) and the step (c), wherein the upper two layers of cloth (namely the front piece) are uncovered and placed on one side, the folded edges of the middle two layers of cloth are fixed along the folding line, the waist is pulled downwards, and the hip is pushed upwards, so that the central line of the cloth forms the human body curve;
preferably, the shoulder line folding edges of the two middle layers of cloth are pinned by a needle along the folding line.
As a further preferable technical solution, in the step (c), a large front curve is drawn on the outer layer of cloth, and the large front is cut off along the large front curve.
As a further preferable technical scheme, in the step (d), the step (d) comprises a step of collar treatment, wherein the small front is opened rightwards and obliquely elongated, collar notches on the upper edge of the large front and the upper edge of the small front are respectively overlapped and adhered by 0.4-0.6 cm, and the collar notches on the upper edge of the small front are pulled apart by 0.8-1.2 cm;
preferably, the cut on the large front is overlapped by 0.5cm and stuck, and the cut on the collar at the upper edge of the small front is pulled open by 1.0 cm;
preferably, after the neckline is processed, the small front fly is folded back according to the crease of the two middle layers of cloth, and the crease is ironed, so that the large front fly and the small front fly are partially overlapped and have shoulder slant;
preferably, the overlapping amount of the upper parts of the large and small lappets is 0.8-2.2 cm, and preferably 1-2 cm;
preferably, the overlapping amount of the lower parts of the large and small flaps is 2.8-5.2 cm, and preferably 3-5 cm.
As a further preferable technical scheme, in the step (e), a body contour curve is drawn on the outer layer of cloth, and the four layers of cloth are cut along the body contour curve.
As a further preferred technical solution, the garment comprises a chinese jacket, a chinese robe or a chinese cheongsam.
According to another aspect of the invention, the invention also provides a garment manufactured by the Chinese style single large-front garment cutting method.
Compared with the prior art, the invention has the beneficial effects that:
according to the garment cutting method provided by the invention, the middle two layers of cloth in the four layers of cloth are moved to form an inclined gap with the outer two layers of cloth, so that the straight thread direction is not changed during cutting, the front and rear central lines of the garment body are vertical and not inclined, the correct position of the front and rear central lines of the garment body is ensured, the garment has better comfort and attractiveness in wearing, and the visual and aesthetic effects are improved.
Meanwhile, on the basis of forming the inclined gap, the small front sheet is further folded back according to the crease of the inner layer, namely the crease of the middle two layers after being opened, so that the large front sheet and the small front sheet are partially overlapped, and a certain shoulder inclination amount is also generated. Therefore, the cutting method can not only ensure that the front and back middle straight lines of the garment body are not inclined vertically, but also can meet the requirement that the large front fly and the small front fly have enough overlapping amount, the gap sewed by the small front fly and the bottom front fly is not exposed, the attractiveness of the garment is ensured, the shoulder inclination amount is also provided, and the comfort of the garment is ensured.
The cutting method provided by the invention is simple to operate, easy to implement, strong in operability, strong in applicability, high in working efficiency, and suitable for various soft fabrics including silk, can enable finally-made clothes, particularly Chinese single large-front clothes, to be neat and attractive, is good in wearing comfort, can meet the requirements of the clothes market on the attractiveness, comfort and the like of the clothes, and is easy to popularize and apply.
Drawings
In order to more clearly illustrate the embodiments of the present invention or the technical solutions in the prior art, the drawings used in the description of the embodiments or the prior art will be briefly described below, and it is obvious that the drawings in the following description are some embodiments of the present invention, and other drawings can be obtained by those skilled in the art without creative efforts.
FIG. 1 is a schematic view of step (a) of a method of cutting a garment according to an embodiment of the present invention;
FIG. 2 is a schematic view of step (b) of a method of cutting a garment according to an embodiment of the present invention;
FIG. 3 is a schematic view of step (c) of a method of cutting a garment according to an embodiment of the present invention;
FIG. 4 is a schematic view of step (d) of a method of cutting a garment according to an embodiment of the present invention;
FIG. 5 is a schematic view of step (e) of a method of cutting a garment according to an embodiment of the present invention;
FIG. 6 is a schematic view of step (f) of a method of cutting a garment according to an embodiment of the present invention;
FIG. 7 is a schematic view of step (g) of a method of cutting a garment according to an embodiment of the present invention;
FIG. 8 is a schematic view of step (h) of a method of cutting a garment according to an embodiment of the present invention;
fig. 9 is a schematic diagram of step (h) in the method for cutting out a garment according to the embodiment of the present invention.
Detailed Description
Embodiments of the present invention will be described in detail below with reference to embodiments and examples, but those skilled in the art will understand that the following embodiments and examples are only illustrative of the present invention and should not be construed as limiting the scope of the present invention. All other embodiments, which can be derived by a person skilled in the art from the embodiments given herein without making any creative effort, shall fall within the protection scope of the present invention. Those who do not specify the conditions are performed according to the conventional conditions or the conditions recommended by the manufacturer.
In the description of the present invention, it should be noted that the terms "center", "upper", "lower", "left", "right", "vertical", "horizontal", "inner", "outer", etc., indicate orientations or positional relationships based on the orientations or positional relationships shown in the drawings, and are only for convenience of description and simplicity of description, but do not indicate or imply that the device or element being referred to must have a particular orientation, be constructed and operated in a particular orientation, and thus, should not be construed as limiting the present invention.
In the present invention, unless otherwise specified, the individual operation steps may be performed sequentially or may not be performed in sequence. Preferably, the cropping methods herein are performed sequentially.
Unless otherwise defined, technical and scientific terms used herein have the same meaning as is familiar to those skilled in the art. In addition, any methods or materials similar or equivalent to those described herein can also be used in the present invention.
In a first aspect, there is provided in at least one embodiment a method of cutting a chinese style single placket garment, comprising the steps of:
(a) firstly, folding the cloth in the warp direction, and then folding the cloth in the weft direction to obtain four layers of cloth;
(b) moving the middle two layers of cloth in the four layers of cloth to enable the middle two layers of cloth and the outer two layers of cloth to form an inclined gap, wherein the width of the inclined gap is determined according to the shoulder inclination amount;
(c) drawing a large front curve on a layer of cloth on the outer side, and cutting the large front along the large front curve;
(d) the small front is opened and then folded back according to the crease of the two layers of cloth in the middle, so that the large front and the small front are partially overlapped;
(e) and drawing a clothes body contour curve on the outer layer of cloth, and cutting along the clothes body contour curve.
In view of the problems that the front and back middle lines of the garment are not inclined correctly, the operation is difficult for soft and smooth cloth such as silk, and the overlapping amount between the large and small front pieces is difficult to ensure in the existing oblique cutting method of Chinese style garments. The inventor of the invention breaks the restriction of the conventional thinking of the technicians in the field, develops a new method, and creatively provides a new cutting method of Chinese style clothes, thereby achieving the purposes of not changing the direction of the straight yarns of the warp yarns, ensuring that the front and back center lines of the clothes body are vertical and not inclined, not only meeting the requirement of enough overlapping amount between a large opening and a small opening, but also having the amount of shoulder inclination, having simple operation and being suitable for various fabrics, in particular various soft fabrics; the method has the advantages that the method finds specific technical means for achieving the purpose, realizes that the front and back center lines of the garment body are not inclined vertically by utilizing the technical means, can meet the requirement that the large front part and the small front part have enough overlapping amount and have shoulder inclination amount, is simple to operate, has favorable effect of being suitable for various soft fabrics, can enable finally-made clothes, particularly Chinese single large front part clothes, to be tidy and attractive, and is good in wearing comfort.
It can be understood that the cutting method of the invention is mainly suitable for the manufacture of Chinese style single large-front garment.
Further, the garment cutting method provided by the invention comprises the steps of firstly folding the fabric in half according to the warp direction, and then folding the fabric in half according to the weft direction to obtain four layers of fabric; then moving or pulling the middle two layers of cloth to form an inclined gap or an inclined angle between the middle two layers of cloth and the outer two layers of cloth, wherein the distance between the two layers of cloth is determined according to the length of the shoulder deflection; then, the large front is cut along the curve of the large front, the small front is opened outwards, and the small front is folded back according to the crease of the inner layer, namely the middle two layers after being opened, so that the large front and the small front can be overlapped enough, and the shoulder skew amount can also exist; and finally, drawing a contour curve of the clothes body, and cutting along the curve.
Therefore, the cutting method of the invention can ensure that the direction of the straight threads is not changed during cutting, the front and back middle lines of the clothes body are vertical and not inclined, the correct position of the front and back middle lines of the clothes body is ensured, the wearing comfort and the beauty are better, and the visual and aesthetic effects are improved. Meanwhile, the large front fly and the small front fly can be overlapped sufficiently, a gap sewn by the small front fly and the bottom front fly cannot be exposed, the attractiveness of the garment is ensured, shoulder inclination can be achieved, and the comfort of the garment is ensured. The method is simple to operate, easy to implement, strong in operability and high in working efficiency, can enable finally-made clothes, particularly Chinese single large-front clothes, to be neat and attractive, is good in wearing comfort, can meet requirements of the clothing market on attractiveness, comfort and the like of the clothes, and is easy to popularize and apply.
It is to be noted that the terms "warp", "weft", "large flap", "small flap", "shoulder bias", etc. are well known to those skilled in the art and have the same meaning as those familiar to those skilled in the art. For example, a placket refers to the front portion of a chinese jacket or gown with buttons offset to one side, usually from the left to the right, covering the bottom placket. The small flap refers to the front part of the button on the upper side or the oblique upper side.
It can be understood that the obtained four layers of cloth comprise 1 st layer, 2 nd layer, 3 rd layer and 4 th layer of cloth, the middle two layers of cloth are 2 nd layer and 3 rd layer of cloth, and the outer two layers of cloth are 1 st layer and 4 th layer of cloth. Further, the fabric may be represented by a front panel and a rear panel.
In a preferred embodiment, in step (a), the fabric is folded in half with the warp direction facing upward and the fold line is the centerline of the front and back panels and parallel to the warp direction of the fabric.
In a preferred embodiment, in the step (a), the fabric is folded in half in the weft direction, the fold line is a shoulder line, four layers of the fabric are obtained, and then the fold is ironed.
It can be understood that, the step (a) includes firstly folding the back side of the fabric outwards, the folding line is the central line of the front and back garment pieces, the folding line is parallel to the warp direction of the fabric, then folding the fabric in the weft direction, the folding line is the shoulder line, so as to obtain four layers of fabric, and after two times of folding, the crease needs to be ironed to make the crease clear and set, and keep each part in a flat state.
In a preferred embodiment, in the step (b), the upper edge of the cloth is fixed, then the middle two cloth of the four cloth layers are pulled leftwards, and the outer two cloth of the four cloth layers are fixed, so that the middle two cloth and the outer two cloth form an inclined gap;
or the upper edges of the cloth materials are fixed, the middle two cloth materials in the four cloth materials are pulled leftwards, the outer two cloth materials in the four cloth materials are pulled rightwards, and an inclined gap is formed between the middle two cloth materials and the outer two cloth materials;
preferably, the upper edge of the cloth is held in place by needles.
It can be understood that, in the step (b), when the two layers of cloth in the middle and the two layers of cloth on the two sides of the outer side form an inclined gap, only the two layers of cloth in the middle can be pulled, the two layers of cloth on the outer side are not moved, and the two layers of cloth in the middle and the two layers of cloth on the outer side can be pulled simultaneously, that is, the two layers of cloth in the middle are pulled leftwards and the two layers of cloth on the outer side are. However, it should be noted that before the cloth is pulled, the upper edge of the cloth needs to be fixed by a fixture, that is, the straight line position in the front and back of the clothes body is ensured so as not to be inclined vertically. The fixing means includes, but is not limited to, a pin, and other materials may be selected to fix the upper edge, which is not limited in the present invention.
The inclined gap can also be called as an inclined angle, namely, the right-side folding seam of the middle two layers of cloth and the right-side folding seam of the outer two layers of cloth form an inclined angle after being pulled.
In a preferred embodiment, in step (b), the amount of shoulder tilt is set based on empirical values;
and/or the shoulder inclination amount is parallel to the warp direction of the fabric;
preferably, the length of the shoulder slope is 0.4-1.6 cm, preferably 0.5-1.5 cm.
It can be understood that before determining the cloth pulling or the inclination angle, the position of the half shoulder width point (1/2 shoulder width) and the length of the shoulder slope are determined, the half shoulder width point is vertically (or parallelly, and the arrangement is different according to the transverse direction or the longitudinal direction of the cloth) drawn as the shoulder slope, the end point corresponding to the half shoulder width point is the shoulder end point, and the end point from the shoulder end point to the neck shoulder point is drawn as the shoulder line.
In the Chinese large-front garment, the shoulder inclination amount is parallel to the warp direction of the fabric, generally speaking, the value of the shoulder inclination amount is obtained according to an empirical value, and in the Chinese large-front garment, the length of the shoulder inclination amount is 0.4-1.6 cm, preferably 0.5-1.5 cm. Generally, the average size of the shoulder is 0.5cm for a flat person, 1.5cm for an oblique person, and about 1.0cm for a normal person. The length of the shoulder slope length line in the range, namely the inclination angle formed by the middle two layers of cloth and the outer two layers of cloth, can ensure that the large front and the small front have enough overlapping amount, and simultaneously have certain shoulder slope amount.
In a preferred embodiment, a step of forming a human body curve is included between the step (b) and the step (c), the upper two layers of cloth (namely the front garment piece) are uncovered at one side, the folded edges of the middle two layers of cloth are fixed along the folding line, the waist part is pulled downwards, and the hip part is pushed upwards, so that the center line of the cloth forms the human body curve;
preferably, the shoulder line folding edges of the two middle layers of cloth are pinned by a needle along the folding line.
According to the present invention, after forming the inclination angle, the cloth is required to form a body curve, and preferably includes: the front cut piece is uncovered and placed on the right side, and the inner layer folded edge is pinned by a needle along a folding line; the waist is then pulled downward and the hips pushed upward so that the midline of the back panel forms the body curve.
In a preferred embodiment, in step (c), a large flap curve is drawn on the outer layer of cloth, and the outer layer of cloth is cut along the large flap curve.
It can be understood that, in the step (c), when the lappet curve is drawn, the starting point is determined according to the front collar depth; when cutting, only one layer of cloth at the outermost side is cut, the cut small part is a small flap, and the rest large part is a large flap.
In addition, after the human body curve is formed, the front garment piece needs to be placed back on the rear garment piece, and then the large front garment curve is drawn and cut along the curve.
In a preferred embodiment, the step (d) includes a step of collar treatment, wherein the small front is opened rightwards and is obliquely elongated, the collar on the upper edge of the large front and the collar on the upper edge of the small front are respectively cut, the cut on the large front is lifted and overlapped by 0.4-0.6 cm and is stuck, and the collar cut on the upper edge of the small front is pulled open by 0.8-1.2 cm;
preferably, the cut on the large front is overlapped by 0.5cm and stuck, and the cut on the collar at the upper edge of the small front is pulled open by 1.0 cm;
preferably, after the neckline is processed, the small front fly is folded back according to the crease of the two middle layers of cloth, and the crease is ironed, so that the large front fly and the small front fly are partially overlapped and have shoulder slant;
preferably, the overlapping amount of the upper parts of the large and small lappets is 0.8-2.2 cm, and preferably 1-2 cm;
preferably, the overlapping amount of the lower parts of the large and small flaps is 2.8-5.2 cm, and preferably 3-5 cm.
According to the invention, after the large front is cut, neckline processing is needed, the small front is opened rightwards and is elongated slantways according to the arrow direction; the necklines on the two sides are respectively cut, the left-side neckline is lifted and overlapped by 0.5cm to be stuck, and the right-side neckline is pulled apart by 1.0 cm. It should be noted that the distance for lifting up the overlapped part and the distance for pulling away are not limited to this, and in actual operation, it may be slightly increased or slightly decreased as appropriate according to actual conditions.
After the neckline is processed, the small front fly is partially folded leftwards, folded according to the inner layer folded edge, and ironed by using steam to stretch and iron the small front fly along the arrow direction, so that a part of overlapping amount can be generated between the small front fly and the large front fly, and meanwhile, the shoulder inclination amount is generated, wherein the upper part of the overlapping amount can reach 1-2 cm, and the lower part of the overlapping amount can reach 3-6 cm.
It can be understood that, in the step (d), the crease of the small flap before opening is an outer crease, the small flap is opened rightwards and is elongated according to the arrow direction (oblique line direction), ironing and shaping are carried out while drawing, then the small flap is folded leftwards and is folded according to the crease of the inner layer, namely, the crease of the small flap is changed. Thus, the large and small flaps will have a partial overlap and also a shoulder tilt.
Generally speaking, the overlapping amount of the upper parts of the large front and the small front is 0.8-2.2 cm, preferably 1-2 cm; the overlapping amount of the lower parts of the large front fly and the small front fly is 2.8-5.2 cm, and preferably 3-5 cm. The overlapping amount within the range can satisfy the requirement that the large and small lappets have enough overlapping amount, and because the small lappet and the bottom lappet have a gap after being sewn, if the overlapping amount is not enough, the large lappet can not completely cover the gap, so that the gap is exposed, the attractiveness is affected, the overall harmony is poor, and the wearing comfort is also affected.
In a preferred embodiment, in step (e), a body contour curve is drawn on the outer cloth layer, and the four cloth layers are cut along the body contour curve.
It can be understood that, in the step (e), the four layers of cloth are cut together along the drawn contour curve of the body during cutting, and the cutting of the garment is completed.
In a preferred embodiment, the garment comprises a chinese jacket, a chinese gown, or a chinese cheongsam.
It should be understood that the cutting method is mainly directed to Chinese style single large-front clothes, and the cut clothes include, but are not limited to, Chinese style coats, Chinese style gowns or Chinese style gowns, and similar clothes can also adopt the cutting method of the present invention. The method of the invention has no special limitation on the clothing material, and various soft fabrics such as silk and the like are all suitable for the cutting method of the invention, and the method is simple, easy to operate, easy to form and stronger in adaptability.
In a second aspect, in at least one embodiment, there is provided a garment made using the method of cutting a chinese style single placket garment.
Preferably, the garment comprises a chinese jacket, a chinese robe or a chinese cheongsam, or other style of chinese garment.
The clothes made by the cutting method of the invention have the characteristics of smooth appearance, good aesthetic property, good wearing comfort and the like.
The invention will be further illustrated with reference to the following specific examples and the accompanying drawings.
Examples
A Chinese style single large-front garment cutting method comprises the following steps:
referring to FIG. 1, (a) the back side of the cloth is first turned upward, and then the cloth is folded in half in the warp direction, the fold line being the central line of the front and rear garment pieces and parallel to the warp direction of the cloth.
Referring to fig. 2, (b) the fabric is folded in half in the weft direction, the fold line is a shoulder line, four layers of fabric are obtained, and after the four layers of fabric are obtained, the crease is ironed.
Referring to fig. 3, (c) the upper edge folding edge of the cloth is fixed by a row of needles, the outer layer folding edge of the shoulder line is fixed, the middle two layers of cloth are pulled leftwards at the same time, and the inner layer folding edge is pulled into an oblique straight line; the distance between the outer layer folded edge I and the inner layer folded edge II is proper to be 1/2 shoulder width, and the distance is 0.5-1.5 cm, namely the shoulder slant amount is preferably 0.5-1.5 cm, the average shoulder-flat person is 0.5cm, the shoulder-slant person is 1.5cm, and the normal person is about 1.0 cm. In addition, in order to increase the distance, the outer-layer folded edge can be pulled rightwards by 0.2-0.5 cm.
Referring to fig. 4, (d) the front cut piece is uncovered and placed on the right, and the inner layer folded edge is pinned by a needle along a folding line; then the waist is pulled down and the buttocks are pushed up, so that the midline of the back garment piece forms the body curve.
Referring to fig. 5, (e) the front cut piece is replaced on the back cut piece, a large front curve is drawn, and a layer of cloth on the outer side is cut off along the large front curve.
Referring to fig. 6, (f) the small flap is partially opened to the right and is elongated in the direction of the arrow; the necklines on the two sides are respectively cut, the left-side neckline is lifted and overlapped by 0.5cm to be stuck, and the right-side neckline is pulled apart by 1.0 cm.
Referring to fig. 7, (g) folding the small front fly to the left, folding the small front fly according to the folding seam of the inner layer folding edge, and ironing the small front fly by using steam edge to stretch and iron according to the arrow direction, so that the large front fly and the small front fly have partial overlapping amount and shoulder inclination amount; the overlapping amount of the upper parts of the large front and the small front is 1-2 cm; the overlapping amount of the lower parts of the large front fly and the small front fly is 3-5 cm.
Referring to fig. 8 and 9, (h) drawing a contour curve of the garment body on the outer cloth layer, and cutting the four cloth layers together along the contour curve of the garment body; the length of the cloth can be used for cutting the upper garment, and the length of the cloth can be used for cutting the cheongsam or other Chinese style robes.
The method of the invention can cut short style single large front jacket, can also cut long style single large front cheongsam, or can be used for cutting other style single large front jacket.
Finally, it should be noted that: the above embodiments are only used to illustrate the technical solution of the present invention, and not to limit the same; while the invention has been described in detail and with reference to the foregoing embodiments, it will be understood by those skilled in the art that: the technical solutions described in the foregoing embodiments may still be modified, or some or all of the technical features may be equivalently replaced; and the modifications or the substitutions do not make the essence of the corresponding technical solutions depart from the scope of the technical solutions of the embodiments of the present invention.

Claims (10)

1. A Chinese style single large-front garment cutting method is characterized by comprising the following steps:
(a) firstly, folding the cloth in the warp direction, and then folding the cloth in the weft direction to obtain four layers of cloth;
(b) moving the middle two layers of cloth in the four layers of cloth to enable the middle two layers of cloth and the outer two layers of cloth to form an inclined gap, wherein the width of the inclined gap is determined according to the shoulder inclination amount;
(c) drawing a large front curve on a layer of cloth on the outer side, and cutting the large front along the large front curve;
(d) the small front is opened and then folded back according to the crease of the two layers of cloth in the middle, so that the large front and the small front are partially overlapped;
(e) drawing a clothes body contour curve on a layer of cloth on the outer side, and cutting along the clothes body contour curve;
in the step (b), the upper edges of the cloth materials are fixed, then the middle two cloth materials in the four cloth materials are pulled leftwards, and the outer two cloth materials in the four cloth materials are fixed, so that the middle two cloth materials and the outer two cloth materials form an inclined gap; or the upper edge of the cloth is fixed firstly, then the middle two-layer cloth in the four-layer cloth is pulled leftwards, and the outer two-layer cloth in the four-layer cloth is pulled rightwards, so that the middle two-layer cloth and the outer two-layer cloth form an inclined gap.
2. The method for cutting Chinese style single placket according to claim 1, wherein in step (a), the cloth is folded in half with the back side facing upward and the warp direction being the center line of the front and back panels and parallel to the warp direction;
and folding the cloth in half according to the weft yarn direction, wherein the folding line is a shoulder line, and ironing the folding seam after four layers of cloth are obtained.
3. The method of cutting a chinese style single placket garment of claim 1, wherein the upper edge of the cloth is held in place by a needle.
4. The method of cutting a chinese style single placket garment according to claim 1, wherein in step (b), the amount of shoulder tilt is set according to an empirical value;
and/or the shoulder inclination amount is parallel to the warp direction of the fabric;
the length of the shoulder slope is 0.4-1.6 cm.
5. The method of claim 1, wherein the step of forming a body curve between the step (b) and the step (c) comprises the steps of opening the upper two layers of fabric at one side, fixing the folded edges of the middle two layers of fabric along the fold line, pulling the waist downward, and pushing the hip upward to form the body curve at the center line of the fabric.
6. The method for cutting out Chinese style single large front garment according to claim 1, wherein in the step (c), the curve of the large front is drawn on the outer layer of cloth, and the large front is cut off along the curve of the large front.
7. The cutting method of Chinese style single large-front garment according to claim 1, characterized in that the step (d) comprises a step of collar treatment, wherein the small front garment is opened rightwards and is obliquely elongated, collar cuts on the upper edge of the large front garment and the upper edge of the small front garment are respectively overlapped and stuck by 0.4-0.6 cm, and the collar cuts on the upper edge of the small front garment are pulled apart by 0.8-1.2 cm;
after the neckline is processed, the small front fly is folded back according to the crease of the two layers of cloth in the middle, and the crease is ironed, so that the large front fly and the small front fly are partially overlapped, and meanwhile, the shoulder slant amount is also provided;
the overlapping amount of the upper parts of the large front and the small front is 0.8-2.2 cm;
the overlapping amount of the lower parts of the large front fly and the small front fly is 2.8-5.2 cm.
8. The method as claimed in claim 1, wherein in step (e), the contour curve of the outer cloth is drawn, and the four cloth layers are cut along the contour curve of the outer cloth.
9. The method of cutting a chinese style single cardigan garment of any one of claims 1 to 8, wherein the garment comprises a chinese style coat, a chinese style robe, or a chinese style cheongsam.
10. The garment manufactured by the cutting method of the Chinese style single large-front garment according to any one of claims 1 to 9.
CN201811471283.2A 2018-12-03 2018-12-03 Chinese style single large-front garment cutting method and garment Active CN109393586B (en)

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CN105803812A (en) * 2016-05-13 2016-07-27 沂水恒泰纺园有限公司 Production method of rubbing alignment cloth with transversely oblique villi

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CN103859674A (en) * 2014-03-07 2014-06-18 老合兴洋服(杭州)有限公司 Ironing method for rear cut pieces of western-style clothes
CN206586407U (en) * 2017-01-18 2017-10-27 宁波太平鸟时尚服饰创意研究院有限公司 One kind opens flap clothes
CN206612232U (en) * 2017-03-27 2017-11-07 苏州大学 Cheongsam sewing structure system
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CN102920080A (en) * 2012-11-26 2013-02-13 李玉莉 Tailor processing method of clothing material
CN105803812A (en) * 2016-05-13 2016-07-27 沂水恒泰纺园有限公司 Production method of rubbing alignment cloth with transversely oblique villi

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