CN108991643A - A kind of oblique flap formula tailoring method of sewing - Google Patents
A kind of oblique flap formula tailoring method of sewing Download PDFInfo
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- CN108991643A CN108991643A CN201811033842.1A CN201811033842A CN108991643A CN 108991643 A CN108991643 A CN 108991643A CN 201811033842 A CN201811033842 A CN 201811033842A CN 108991643 A CN108991643 A CN 108991643A
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A41—WEARING APPAREL
- A41H—APPLIANCES OR METHODS FOR MAKING CLOTHES, e.g. FOR DRESS-MAKING OR FOR TAILORING, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- A41H42/00—Multi-step production lines for making clothes
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- Textile Engineering (AREA)
- Corsets Or Brassieres (AREA)
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Abstract
The invention discloses a kind of oblique flap formula tailoring method of sewing, the oblique flap formula clothes are tailored with cloth, its broadwise is first tilted broken line doubling and cut off by cloth along center digs flap line, it blends and digs the flap, cloth doubling, which is dug, to be constituted four layers to left folding (radial folding) along shoulder horizontal line again after the flap and completely draws Bodice structure figure, cuts front and back garment piece along galley proof Bodice structure figure.And complete oblique flap formula clothes neckline and cut, the oblique flap formula clothes smaller or inner piece on the right side of a Chinese garment which buttons on the right is cut, and oblique flap formula another garment sleeve is cut and oblique flap formula garment sewing, sew respectively sleeve, the smaller or inner piece on the right side of a Chinese garment which buttons on the right, coat-sleeve lean to one side, welt, collar.Working efficiency can be improved in the method for the present invention, solves the deficiency that the oblique flap formula clothes of cloth dig flap hardly possible.
Description
Technical field
The invention belongs to clothes to tailor technical field, and in particular to a kind of oblique flap formula tailoring method of sewing.
Background technique
Clothes refer to the general name of clothes shoes packet toy ornament etc., refer to clothes more.Clothes are early stage human social development
Just occur, a variety of materials that can be found at one's side are made into coarse and crude " clothes " to flak jacket by men of old.The initial clothes of the mankind
Be with made of animal skin, wrap up earliest " fabric " of body with bast-fibre and grass system etc. at.To clothes in national standard
It is defined as sewing, is through at human body and plays protection and decorative effect product, also known as clothes.For present society, clothes have been every
Individual's decoration oneself, protects oneself, can be to the necessary supply of oneself and household, not just for wearing or an identity, a kind of life
Attitude, one displaying charisma performance.
In recent years, enriching with people 's material life, the consumption propensity of people gradually change to personalized, diversification,
And tiltedly the trend of back-to-ancients of flap formula clothes also gradually obtains the favor of consumer, oblique flap formula clothes performer in the history culture of China
Important role, the multiple elements such as prevalence, custom, drama are fused together, and show class in graceful and magnificent mode
Plot like as story, while having the characteristics that aestheticism, simple and elegant, graceful and restrained, it has been to be concerned by more and more people and likes.
At present in oblique flap formula tailoring manufacturing process, plane cartography is commonly used, this method is due to cutting master worker
Difference, be easy to cause and dig the flap and be not convinced, the inconsistent situation of upper and lower matching degree, operation difficulty is big when batch micro operations, yields
It not can be effectively controlled, while inefficiency, be unfavorable for the production and popularization of oblique flap formula clothes.
Summary of the invention
For the above technical problems, the present invention cuts oblique flap formula clothes using cloth method is folded, and provides a kind of oblique
Flap formula tailoring method of sewing, this method have easy to operate, high production efficiency, the controllable feature of product quality.
In order to reach above-mentioned technical effect, the present invention is realized especially by following technical scheme:
A kind of oblique flap formula tailoring method of sewing, specifically includes the following contents:
Cloth center draw broadwise center line, the drawing inclined broken line on the basis of center line, and along inclination doubling
Line folds cloth, and the center line and inclination broken line intersect at its midpoint;
Shoulder horizontal line, folding line, waistline and the BL BUST LINE vertical with cloth flanging are drawn to folded cloth, it is described
Distance of the shoulder horizontal line apart from folding line one end is that clothes clothing is long, and folding line, waistline and the BL BUST LINE is located at shoulder horizontal line
Another side;
On cloth broadwise draw the big line of bust, the big line of the bust be parallel to inclination broken line and with folding line, waist
Contour and BL BUST LINE intersect vertically;
Rectangle neckline ground line and neck nest radian line are drawn, the neck nest radian line includes preceding neckline point and back neck deeply
Deep, wherein preceding neckline point deeply is located on the inclination broken line of shoulder horizontal line side identical with folding line, back neck is put deeply to be located at
On the inclination broken line of the shoulder horizontal line other side;
The drafting and cutting of flap line, the connection big line of bust and BL BUST LINE intersection point and preceding neckline depth point are dug, is drawn on connecting line
S-shaped processed digs flap line, digs the intersection point of flap line and the big line of bust apart from 4 centimetres of BL BUST LINE, and along upper layer, cloth, which is cut off, digs flap line, and lifts
It is allowed to after mutually blending, according to neck nest radian line clipping neckline;
Cloth is folded back according to shoulder horizontal line, constitutes four-layer structure, cuff portion is drawn and clothing body part is formed completely
Structure constitutes sleeve body and clothing body side seam line and cuts;
The smaller or inner piece on the right side of a Chinese garment which buttons on the right is tailored, and the smaller or inner piece on the right side of a Chinese garment which buttons on the right copies cutting according to clothing body form, and the smaller or inner piece on the right side of a Chinese garment which buttons on the right wherein matches with digging flap line on one side,
Smaller or inner piece on the right side of a Chinese garment which buttons on the right latasuture matches with clothing body side seam line;
To tuck inside the sleeve body latasuture, clothing body latasuture and smaller or inner piece on the right side of a Chinese garment which buttons on the right latasuture apposition suture, open cloth, carry out collar sewing, sleeve body sewing
Sewing is buckled with disk.
In some embodiment of the invention, the cloth width is set as 90 centimetres, 110 centimetres or 150 centimetres, cloth
Length is that 2 long extraordinarily regulated quantity, regulated quantitys of oblique flap formula clothes clothing are usually 6~10 centimetres.
Wherein, it is 31 centimetres that cloth width, which is the sleeve length of 90 centimetres of setting splicings,;Cloth width is 110 centimetres of settings
The sleeve length of splicing is 22 centimetres;Cloth width is that the sleeve length of 150 centimetres of setting splicings is 0.
In some embodiment of the invention, folding line From Left 5 centimetres of cloth edge for cutting flanging, waistline away from
From 1/4 height of shoulder horizontal line, BL BUST LINE adds 5 centimetres apart from 2/5 bust size of shoulder horizontal line.
In some embodiment of the invention, the big linear distance inclination broken line of bust is 1/4 bust size.
In some embodiments of the invention, wide 1/5 having a size of collar size of neckline, neckline are deep having a size of 1/5 collar
+ 2 centimetres of size.
In some embodiments of the invention, including joint strip sewing, the joint strip sewing are to dig the flap and front cut pieces side
Seam forms enabling flap clothes structure using joint strip matching suture.
The invention has the benefit that
Operation of the present invention method is simple, can quickly fold cloth and carry out tailoring oblique flap formula clothes, utilizes inclination doubling
Cloth releases blending amount, and lifts upper layer cloth after shearing and dig the flap and formed and admix, for digging seam part after the flap separates and the smaller or inner piece on the right side of a Chinese garment which buttons on the right
It covers, wherein matching with the smaller or inner piece on the right side of a Chinese garment which buttons on the right by shoulder.Difference according to cloth breadth simultaneously, configures different UNEVEN LENGTH OF SLEEVE pieces, the present invention
Advantage is designed using the structure that the folding of cloth reaches traditional dress, saves cloth, easy to operate, has been saved the production time, has been mentioned
High efficiency.Solves the difficult point that oblique flap formula clothes dig the flap.
Detailed description of the invention
Fig. 1 is that cloth inclination broken line of the invention draws schematic diagram;
Fig. 2 is cloth doubling schematic diagram of the invention;
Fig. 3 is that neckline ground line of the invention draws schematic diagram;
Fig. 4 is that neck nest radian line of the invention draws schematic diagram;
Fig. 5 is BL BUST LINE of the invention, waistline, folding line, shoulder horizontal line drafting schematic diagram;
Fig. 6 is that flap schematic diagram is dug in drafting of the invention;
Fig. 7 is that flap schematic diagram is dug in cutting of the invention;
Fig. 8 is digging flap blending amount schematic diagram of the invention;
Fig. 9 is cloth length doubling schematic diagram of the invention;
Figure 10 is splicing sleeve schematic diagram of the invention;
Figure 11 is cutting clothing body and sleeve latasuture schematic diagram of the invention;
Figure 12 is cutting smaller or inner piece on the right side of a Chinese garment which buttons on the right schematic diagram of the invention;
Figure 13 is suture sleeve schematic diagram of the invention;
Figure 14 is suture joint strip schematic diagram of the invention;
In figure: 1, tilting broken line, 2, center line, 3, folding line, 4, neckline ground line, 5, neck nest radian line, 6, the digging flap
Line, 7, shoulder horizontal line, 8, BL BUST LINE, 9, waistline, 10, the big line of bust, 11, clothing body side seam line, 12, sleeve body side seam line, 13, bottom
The flap.
Specific embodiment
Below in conjunction with specific embodiment of the present invention, technical solution of the present invention is clearly and completely described, is shown
So, described embodiments are only a part of the embodiments of the present invention, instead of all the embodiments.Based on the reality in the present invention
Example is applied, every other embodiment obtained by those of ordinary skill in the art without making creative efforts all belongs to
In the scope of protection of the invention.
The present invention provides a kind of oblique flap formula tailoring sewing tech, including oblique flap formula clothes cloth, clothes
First its broadwise is tilted broken line doubling and cut off along center and digs flap line, blends and digs the flap, digs the blended amount that the flap is used for oblique flap formula, is risen
To the effect for connecting and covering the smaller or inner piece on the right side of a Chinese garment which buttons on the right.Cloth doubling digs after the flap and constitutes four layers simultaneously to left folding (radial folding) along shoulder horizontal line again
It is complete to draw Bodice structure figure, front and back garment piece is cut along galley proof Bodice structure figure.Oblique flap formula clothes neckline is cut, and is cut out along neckline line
It cuts.The oblique flap formula clothes smaller or inner piece on the right side of a Chinese garment which buttons on the right is cut, along smaller or inner piece on the right side of a Chinese garment which buttons on the right line clipping.Oblique flap formula another garment sleeve is cut, and takes the circumstances into consideration to splice sleeve according to split width
Son is simultaneously cut.Oblique flap formula garment sewing, sew respectively sleeve, the smaller or inner piece on the right side of a Chinese garment which buttons on the right, coat-sleeve lean to one side, welt, collar.
As shown in Fig. 1~14, setting cloth width (/ or split) it is respectively 90 centimetres (narrow width), 110 centimetres of (middle width
It is wide), 150 centimetres (wide cut is wide) three kinds of specifications, cloth length is determined according to oblique flap formula clothes fashion length, is normally set up oblique flap formula
2 long extraordinarily regulated quantitys (generally setting 6~10 centimetres) of clothes clothing is cloth length.Cloth width (/ or split) it is 90 centimetres
(narrow width), the sleeve length that splicing is arranged is 31 centimetres, and the size of the rotator cuff overall length according to 160 woman's types calculates.Cloth
Width (/ or split) it is 110 centimetres (middle breadth), the sleeve length that splicing is arranged is 22 centimetres, the shoulder according to 160 woman's types
The size for overall length of tucking inside the sleeve calculates.Cloth width (/ or split) it is 150 centimetres (wide cut is wide), the sleeve length that splicing is arranged is 0, according to
It is calculated according to the size of the rotator cuff overall length of 160 woman's types.
Folding line, waistline, BL BUST LINE, shoulder horizontal line and neckline line are drawn, wherein folding line cloth edge 5.0 From Left
Centimetre, for cutting flanging;Shoulder horizontal line, which is drawn, measures to the right the long size of clothing according to folding line, and jacket and shorts are generally 66~68 centimetres,
Long dress is 105~110 centimetres, female's body of No. 160 types, for determining garment length;BL BUST LINE is drawn to be measured to the left according to shoulder horizontal line
25 centimetres are taken, calculation method is " 2/5+5.0 centimetres of bust size " (bust sets 100 centimetres, female's body of No. 160 types), is drawn
BL BUST LINE processed;Waistline is drawn measures 40 centimetres according to shoulder horizontal line to the left, and calculation method is " number 1/4 " (number 160 lis of setting
Rice, female's body of No. 160 types), draw waistline;
Neckline drawing is equipped with neckline deeply and the wide drafting of neckline, setting neckline are wide having a size of " 7.2 " centimetre, calculation method: neck
Enclose the 1/5 of size.It is deep having a size of " 9.2 " centimetre to set neckline, calculation method: 1/5+2.0 centimetres of collar size draws rectangle
Neckline ground line and neck nest radian line, neckline chart back neck to 1.0 centimetres of the right movement, draw deeply for back neck.Neckline
The lower-right most point of rectangle and 1.0 cm point of right side of the long point of clothing are same point, and long side is that neckline is deep (on or) under neckline rectangle, a short side left side
(or right) is that neckline is wide, and the upper right point of neckline rectangle is set as front and back neck nest radian line point of contact for 2.0 centimetres to the left, left in neckline rectangle
It is front neck nest radian line point of contact that 2.3 centimetres are measured on the angular bisector at upper angle, and the angular bisector in the neckline rectangle upper right corner measures
1.0 centimetres be after lead nest radian line point of contact, be sequentially connected the left point of rectangle long side, 2.3 centimetres of point of contacts, to the left 2.0 cm points, 1.0
Centimetre point of contact, the right point of rectangle long side constitute neck nest radian line.
The big line of bust is drawn on BL BUST LINE, 25 centimetres of data bit, calculation method is " the 1/4 of bust size ", draws chest
Enclose big line.
It draws and digs flap line, connect big 4.0 cm point of the left side of bust and preceding neckline depth point, and draw serpentine on this line and dig
Flap line;The cutting for digging flap line is set at the neck nest of upper layer and makes a call to three clips, and length is " 4.0 " centimetre, and is cut off along upper layer cloth
The cloth that digging flap line is allowed to upper layer shoulder is separated with upper layer garment piece, is pulled at three clips of open-neck collar nest and is allowed to the growth of cloth radial direction simultaneously
It is following to be admixed to garment piece digging flap line, garment piece is pushed and pulled to the right to increase and digs flap blended amount, admixture is allowed to and is maintained at 2.0~3.0 lis
Rice.
Neckline cutting is carried out after completing to dig flap blending, modifies neckline radian line, and put margin to seam along radian line and cut, seam
1.0 centimetres of head setting.
Front and back clothing body folds, and by the rear garment piece on the right, along shoulder horizontal line, clothing body is folded to the left, constitutes four-layer structure.
Cuff, which is cut, splices sleeve length according to cloth breadth size, draws cuff portion and clothing body part forms complete knot
Structure simultaneously constitutes sleeve body side seam line and clothing body side seam line, puts margin to seam along latasuture and cuts, margin to seam sets 1.0 centimetres, sets flanging 4.0
Centimetre.Clothing body side seam line is closing waist and the structural modeling that the bottom is released.
The smaller or inner piece on the right side of a Chinese garment which buttons on the right is tailored, and copies cutting according to clothing body form, smaller or inner piece on the right side of a Chinese garment which buttons on the right S-shaped line abutting clothing body digging flap S-shaped line is tailored, and external latasuture is tight
Patch clothing body latasuture is tailored, and smaller or inner piece on the right side of a Chinese garment which buttons on the right bottom edge is 10 centimetres shorter than folding line, and smaller or inner piece on the right side of a Chinese garment which buttons on the right base width is 15 centimetres, 15 cm points and neckline square
The right point connection of shape long side.Smaller or inner piece on the right side of a Chinese garment which buttons on the right structure is shorter than clothing body and narrow, sutures the digging flap part of the smaller or inner piece on the right side of a Chinese garment which buttons on the right and clothing body, the right hand edge of the smaller or inner piece on the right side of a Chinese garment which buttons on the right and digging
Flap line matches, and smaller or inner piece on the right side of a Chinese garment which buttons on the right top latasuture matches with clothing body side seam line, and smaller or inner piece on the right side of a Chinese garment which buttons on the right S-shaped line and clothing body are dug flap S-shaped linear slit and closed, outside the smaller or inner piece on the right side of a Chinese garment which buttons on the right
Latasuture and back coat latasuture system.
Sleeve or so piece and body piece or so apposition suture is connected, and includes smaller or inner piece on the right side of a Chinese garment which buttons on the right latasuture by sleeve latasuture and clothing body latasuture
Apposition suture.
Further include joint strip sewing in some preferred embodiments, is digging the flap and right garment piece latasuture using joint strip matching seam
Conjunction forms enabling flap clothes structure.
Collar sewing, collar, which is tailored, to be cut and is sewed including collar, and collar drawing sets length as " 36 " centimetre, and width is
" 5.0 " centimetre, neck angle are circle, and collar lower collar thread has 1.5 centimetres of set-back, and collar, which is cut, puts seam according to the net example edition of collar figure
Head is cut, including top collar and inner collar.Collar, which is tailored, to be cut including collar and sews, be equipped with adhesive lining for interlayer in collar and make
Type support, cuts with top collar and inner collar.For attaching collar, leading alignment clothing body neckline of setting collar or so or so attaches collar for collar sewing
Point is sutured, and collar rear center point aligns clothing body rear center point, is attached collar for 3 points of contrapositions.
Disk is buckled for traditional dress structure, and disk buckles setting retaining ring (female thread) and pimple is buckled (sub-buckle), and cutty sark clothes setting six
Button, long clothes set nine and buckle, and hand acupuncture is followed closely and dug at the flap and latasuture respectively.
It although an embodiment of the present invention has been shown and described, for the ordinary skill in the art, can be with
Understand without departing from the principles and spirit of the present invention can to these examples carry out it is a variety of variation, modification, replacement and
Modification, the scope of the present invention is defined by the appended.
Claims (7)
1. a kind of oblique flap formula tailoring method of sewing characterized by comprising
Broadwise center line, the drawing inclined broken line on the basis of center line are drawn in the center of cloth, and is rolled over along inclination broken line
Laying up material, the center line and inclination broken line intersect at its midpoint;
Shoulder horizontal line, folding line, waistline and the BL BUST LINE vertical with cloth flanging are drawn to folded cloth, the shoulder is flat
The distance of linear distance folding line one end is that clothes clothing is long, and folding line, waistline and the BL BUST LINE is located at the another of shoulder horizontal line
Side;
On cloth broadwise draw the big line of bust, the big line of the bust be parallel to inclination broken line and with folding line, waistline
It intersects vertically with BL BUST LINE;
Rectangle neckline ground line and neck nest radian line are drawn, the neck nest radian line includes that preceding neckline point and back neck deeply are deep
Point, wherein preceding neckline point deeply is located on the inclination broken line of shoulder horizontal line side identical with folding line, back neck is put deeply is located at shoulder
On the inclination broken line of the horizontal line other side;
The drafting and cutting of flap line, the connection big line of bust and BL BUST LINE intersection point and preceding neckline depth point are dug, S-shaped is drawn on connecting line
Flap line is dug, digs the intersection point of flap line and the big line of bust apart from 4 centimetres of BL BUST LINE, cloth, which is cut off, along upper layer digs flap line, and lifts and be allowed to
After mutually blending, according to neck nest radian line clipping neckline;
Cloth is folded back according to shoulder horizontal line, constitutes four-layer structure, cuff portion is drawn and clothing body part forms complete structure
It constitutes sleeve body and clothing body side seam line and cuts;
The smaller or inner piece on the right side of a Chinese garment which buttons on the right is tailored, and the smaller or inner piece on the right side of a Chinese garment which buttons on the right copies cutting according to clothing body form, and the smaller or inner piece on the right side of a Chinese garment which buttons on the right wherein matches with digging flap line on one side, the smaller or inner piece on the right side of a Chinese garment which buttons on the right
Latasuture matches with clothing body side seam line;
To tuck inside the sleeve body latasuture, clothing body latasuture and smaller or inner piece on the right side of a Chinese garment which buttons on the right latasuture apposition suture, open cloth, carry out collar sewing, the sewing of sleeve body and disk
Button sewing.
2. a kind of oblique flap formula tailoring method of sewing according to claim 1, which is characterized in that the cloth width
It is set as 90 centimetres, 110 centimetres or 150 centimetres, cloth length is that 2 long extraordinarily regulated quantity, regulated quantitys of oblique flap formula clothes clothing are logical
It is often 6~10 centimetres.
3. a kind of oblique flap formula tailoring method of sewing according to claim 2, which is characterized in that cloth width is 90 lis
The sleeve length of rice setting splicing is 31 centimetres;Cloth width is that the sleeve length of 110 centimetres of setting splicings is 22 centimetres;Cloth
Width is that the sleeve length of 150 centimetres of setting splicings is 0.
4. a kind of oblique flap formula tailoring method of sewing according to claim 1, which is characterized in that the folding line away from
5 centimetres from left side cloth edge for cutting flanging, the waistline apart from 1/4 height of shoulder horizontal line, the BL BUST LINE away from
Add 5 centimetres from 2/5 bust size of shoulder horizontal line.
5. a kind of oblique flap formula tailoring method of sewing according to claim 1, which is characterized in that the big line of the bust
Distance inclination broken line is 1/4 bust size.
6. a kind of oblique flap formula tailoring method of sewing according to claim 1, which is characterized in that neckline is wide having a size of neck
The 1/5 of size is enclosed, neckline is deep having a size of 1/5+2 centimetres of collar size.
7. a kind of oblique flap formula tailoring method of sewing according to claim 1, which is characterized in that it is sewed including joint strip,
The joint strip sewing is to form enabling flap clothes structure using joint strip matching suture in the digging flap and front cut pieces latasuture.
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CN201811033842.1A CN108991643B (en) | 2018-09-05 | 2018-09-05 | Oblique-lappet type garment cutting and sewing method |
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CN201811033842.1A CN108991643B (en) | 2018-09-05 | 2018-09-05 | Oblique-lappet type garment cutting and sewing method |
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CN108991643B CN108991643B (en) | 2020-07-28 |
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Cited By (6)
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CN109924555A (en) * | 2019-04-16 | 2019-06-25 | 西京学院 | A kind of Ladies' Wear with corselet is two-in-one tailors technique |
CN112137213A (en) * | 2020-10-23 | 2020-12-29 | 西京学院 | Method for making Chinese garment picture of women's clothes |
CN112244405A (en) * | 2020-10-10 | 2021-01-22 | 西京学院 | Umbrella-shaped woman dress tailoring method |
CN113057391A (en) * | 2021-03-31 | 2021-07-02 | 黎明职业大学 | Method for manufacturing Huoding-Po clothing |
CN113293596A (en) * | 2021-05-25 | 2021-08-24 | 北京服装学院 | Garment excess material reconstruction and cutting method |
CN113317581A (en) * | 2021-06-08 | 2021-08-31 | 浙江理工大学 | Zero-waste garment production method based on diagonal segmentation and variable one-piece dress |
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CN206994494U (en) * | 2017-08-11 | 2018-02-13 | 浙江嘉欣丝绸股份有限公司 | A kind of oblique flap jacket of Ms |
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Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
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CN109924555A (en) * | 2019-04-16 | 2019-06-25 | 西京学院 | A kind of Ladies' Wear with corselet is two-in-one tailors technique |
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CN112244405A (en) * | 2020-10-10 | 2021-01-22 | 西京学院 | Umbrella-shaped woman dress tailoring method |
CN112137213A (en) * | 2020-10-23 | 2020-12-29 | 西京学院 | Method for making Chinese garment picture of women's clothes |
CN113057391A (en) * | 2021-03-31 | 2021-07-02 | 黎明职业大学 | Method for manufacturing Huoding-Po clothing |
CN113057391B (en) * | 2021-03-31 | 2023-01-24 | 黎明职业大学 | Method for manufacturing Huoding-Po clothing |
CN113293596A (en) * | 2021-05-25 | 2021-08-24 | 北京服装学院 | Garment excess material reconstruction and cutting method |
CN113293596B (en) * | 2021-05-25 | 2022-03-04 | 北京服装学院 | Garment excess material reconstruction and cutting method |
CN113317581A (en) * | 2021-06-08 | 2021-08-31 | 浙江理工大学 | Zero-waste garment production method based on diagonal segmentation and variable one-piece dress |
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