CN108888573B - 舒敏保湿滋润霜及其制备方法 - Google Patents
舒敏保湿滋润霜及其制备方法 Download PDFInfo
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- CN108888573B CN108888573B CN201810882143.8A CN201810882143A CN108888573B CN 108888573 B CN108888573 B CN 108888573B CN 201810882143 A CN201810882143 A CN 201810882143A CN 108888573 B CN108888573 B CN 108888573B
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Abstract
本发明舒敏保湿滋润霜，由以下重量份数的原料制成：南瓜籽油9～10份、3‑氨基丙烷磺酸1～1.2份、月桂酰两性基乙酸钠6～8份、环己硅氧烷3～4份、纯净水90～100份、麦芽糊精3～4份、水溶性富勒烯粉末0.5～0.8份、四氢双脱甲氧基二阿魏酰甲烷1～1.5份、抗坏血酸葡糖苷3～3.5份、硫酸镁4～5份、川贝发酵提取物4.5～5份、阿魏菇提取物4.5～5份、白梅花提取物3.5～4份。本发明舒敏保湿滋润霜，各个组分之间的协同作用突出；不仅能够修复滋养肌肤，具有优异的抗氧化和协同美白功效；特别是还具有突出的舒缓抗敏和保湿补水的效果。
Description
技术领域
本发明属于生物与化妆品技术领域，具体涉及一种舒敏保湿滋润霜及其制备方法。
背景技术
过敏原是过敏反应发生的必要条件，离开了过敏原，就可以避免过敏的发生，但是不同体质的人体过敏原有很大差异性，因此远离过敏原的做法存在着不是对所有过敏病人都会有作用的缺陷；使用抗组胺物质：抗组胺是指应用抗组胺物质拮抗组胺对人体的生物效应。 抗 组胺物质可抑制肥大细胞释放组胺等过敏物质，抑制嗜酸性细胞和肥大细胞的***作用，从而阻止这类细胞在炎症部位的聚集，缓解炎症反应，达到治疗目的。然而抗组胺物质大部分是药用成分，在化妆品中是不允许使用的；清除自由基：最新研究表明，过敏体质的形成，以及过敏的发作，都与机体内的自由基过多堆积有关。而日趋严重的环境污染，化学品滥用及辐射等因素都会直接造成自由基在体内的堆积。通过清除自由基，调节机体免疫，可达到逐步改善过敏体质目的，但是，采用上述方法改善皮肤过敏的症状所需时间较长，短期见效不明显。表皮的最外层为角质层，由于角质层本身的吸水、屏障功能，以及角质层中所含有的天然保湿因子即氨基酸类、乳酸盐及糖类等的作用，使角质层保持一定的含水量，维持皮肤的湿润。而皮肤的外观与角质层的水分含量有关，正常的皮肤角质层通常含有10%-30%的水分，以维持皮肤的柔软和弹性。但随着年龄的增长，皮肤角质层水分含量会逐渐减少，而当皮肤角质层的水分含量低于10%时，皮肤就会出现干燥、紧绷、粗糙及脱屑等。
发明内容
本发明的目的是提供一种具有优异的抗氧化和协同美白功效，以及突出的舒缓抗敏和保湿补水效果的舒敏保湿滋润霜。
本发明舒敏保湿滋润霜，由以下重量份数的原料制成：南瓜籽油9～10份、3-氨基丙烷磺酸1～1.2份、月桂酰两性基乙酸钠6～8份、环己硅氧烷3～4份、纯净水90～100份、麦芽糊精3～4份、水溶性富勒烯粉末0.5～0.8份、四氢双脱甲氧基二阿魏酰甲烷1～1.5份、抗坏血酸葡糖苷3～3.5份、硫酸镁4～5份、川贝发酵提取物4.5～5份、阿魏菇提取物4.5～5份、白梅花提取物3.5～4份。
作为优化，该舒敏保湿滋润霜，由以下重量份数的原料制成：南瓜籽油9.5份、3-氨基丙烷磺酸1.1份、月桂酰两性基乙酸钠7份、环己硅氧烷3.5份、纯净水95份、麦芽糊精3.5份、水溶性富勒烯粉末0.6份、四氢双脱甲氧基二阿魏酰甲烷1.2份、抗坏血酸葡糖苷3.2份、硫酸镁4.5份、川贝发酵提取物4.8份、阿魏菇提取物4.6份、白梅花提取物3.6份。
制备该舒敏保湿滋润霜的方法，包括以下步骤：
(1)将所述重量份数的南瓜籽油、3-氨基丙烷磺酸、月桂酰两性基乙酸钠、环己硅氧烷，加入搅拌釜中，加热至75～80℃，搅拌均匀；
(2)将所述重量份数的纯净水、麦芽糊精、水溶性富勒烯粉末，加入搅拌釜中，加热至68～72℃，搅拌均匀；
(3)将步骤(2)中的混合物和步骤(1)中的混合物混合，加入搅拌釜中，在60～65℃，搅拌均匀；
(4)将步骤(3)中的混合物降温至48～52℃，加入所述重量份数的四氢双脱甲氧基二阿魏酰甲烷、抗坏血酸葡糖苷、硫酸镁，搅拌均匀；
(5)将步骤(4)中的混合物降温至42～45℃，加入所述重量份数的川贝发酵提取物、阿魏菇提取物、白梅花提取物，搅拌均匀；冷却后出料即得。
本发明中，环己硅氧烷作为滑顺剂；麦芽糊精作吸附剂和乳化稳定剂。月桂酰两性基乙酸钠、3-氨基丙烷磺酸为温和表面活性剂。四氢双脱甲氧基二阿魏酰甲烷作为抗氧化剂使用，富勒烯C60能够亲和自由基，具有极强的抗氧化能力，起到活化皮肤细胞，预防肌肤衰亡的作用。
抗坏血酸葡糖苷、泛酰巯基乙胺磺酸钙作为美白成分，可以阻碍黑色素的转化；白梅花（绿萼梅）提取物，能有效抑制酪氨酸酶活性和黑色素生成；以上三组分协同具有均匀肤色、美白亮肤的良好功效。川贝嗜酸乳酸杆菌提取物，具有抑制透明质酸酶，舒缓抗敏的突出功效。阿魏菇提取物，具有突出的保湿补水功效。南瓜籽油富含大量的VE、植物固醇、叶绿素等营养，有助皮肤细胞新陈代谢，保持皮肤的胶原蛋白含量，维持皮肤的弹性，减少皱纹。硫酸镁作为填充剂和黏度控制使用。
本发明舒敏保湿滋润霜，各个组分之间的协同作用突出；不仅能够修复滋养肌肤，具有优异的抗氧化和协同美白功效；特别是还具有突出的舒缓抗敏和保湿补水的效果。
附图说明
图1 不同浓度透明质酸酶抑制率结果图。
图2 不同组贴班实验结果图。
图3 不同组处理皮肤含水量随时间变化图。
具体实施方式
下面给出的实施例拟对本发明作进一步说明，但不能理解为是对本发明保护范围的限制，本领域技术人员根据本发明内容对本发明的一些非本质的改进和调整，仍属于本发明的保护范围。
本发明中，南瓜籽油富含大量的VE、植物固醇、叶绿素等营养，有助皮肤细胞新陈代谢，保持皮肤的胶原蛋白含量，维持皮肤的弹性，减少皱纹。硫酸镁作为填充剂和黏度控制使用。环己硅氧烷作为滑顺剂、防水剂，挥发性硅油，能降低表面张力，使产品清爽好涂抹，不黏腻。麦芽糊精在化妆品中作吸附剂和乳化稳定剂使用。月桂酰两性基乙酸钠为温和表面活性剂，具有优良的去污、乳化、分散、稳泡、润湿、抗静电、发泡、渗透能力。3-氨基丙烷磺酸为两性离子表面活性剂-氨基磺酸型；具有优良的去污、抗静电、助水溶能力。泛酰巯基乙胺磺酸钙作为美白成分，可以阻碍黑色素的转化。四氢双脱甲氧基二阿魏酰甲烷作为抗氧化剂使用。抗坏血酸葡糖苷作为美白成份，可以抑制酪氨酸酶，同时具有抗氧化作用，安全性很高。水溶性富勒烯粉末，富勒烯C60能够亲和自由基，具有极强的抗氧化能力，能够起到活化皮肤细胞，延缓肌肤细胞衰亡的作用。
川贝发酵提取物为川贝嗜酸乳酸杆菌提取物，具有抑制透明质酸酶，舒缓抗敏的突出功效；可以通过以下方法获得，将川贝洗净粉碎至50～60目，然后加入18～20倍蒸馏水，115～121℃高压灭菌15～30min； 接种活化的嗜酸乳酸杆菌，接种量为2％～3％，并在28～32℃，发酵3～5天； 采用高压均质机将发酵液匀浆破碎后，5000～6000r/min离心10～12分钟，取上清液，真空减压浓缩，冷冻干燥获得。
透明质酸(HA)分布于细胞外基质中，是构成细胞外基质和细胞间质的主要成分，其被透明质酸酶HAase水解后，细胞间则变为非粘性，引起细胞脱颗粒和合成的新介质渗出，发挥生物效应，常导致速发型过敏反应的发生。透明质酸酶抑制实验：
采用Elson-Morgan法进行测定，测定透明质酸酶抑制率。取洁净试管，每只试管加入0.5 mL透明质酸酶溶液和0.1mL0.25 mmol/L CaC12溶液，放置于37℃培养箱培养20min；加入一定浓度的川贝发酵提取物样品液0.5 mL，继续37℃保温培养20 min；再加入O.5mL透明质酸钠溶液，置于37℃培养箱中保温30 min，然后取出，常温放置5 min；加入0.1mL0.4mol/LNaOH溶液和0.5 mL乙酰丙酮溶液，置于沸水浴中加热15 min后立即用冰水进行冷却5 min；加入埃尔利希试剂1.0 mL并用3.0 mL无水乙醇进行稀释，放置20 min显色，用分光光度计测定其吸光度值。透明质酸酶抑制率(％)：[(A-B)(C-D)]/(A-B)×100％；式中：A为对照溶液的OD值；B为对照空白溶液的OD值；c为待测样品溶液的OD值；D为试样空白的OD值，结果见图1。随着川贝发酵提取物浓度的增加，当达到lO g/L时，透明质酸酶抑制率为92.78％。这表明川贝发酵提取物可以通过抑制透明质酸酶活性的途径，减少透明质酸的分解，进而减少组胺及炎症因子的释放量，从而起到一定的抗敏抗刺激的作用。
阿魏菇提取物，具有突出的保湿补水功效；可以通过以下方法获得，将阿魏菇放入50～60 ℃烘箱内烘干，粉碎至100～120目；按料水比1∶20 配成水溶液，微波载液量3.5 W/mL，作用时间8～10 min；5000～6000 r/min离心20～25 min，取上清液，3倍体积乙醇沉淀过夜，过滤取沉淀；50～60 ℃烘干，即得。
白梅花（绿萼梅）提取物，能有效抑制酪氨酸酶活性和黑色素生成，具有均匀肤色、提亮肤色的良好功效。可选择西安艾诺医药科技有限责任公司 30:1白梅花提取物。
实施例1：舒敏保湿滋润霜，通过以下步骤制成：
(1)将南瓜籽油9.5份、3-氨基丙烷磺酸1.1份、月桂酰两性基乙酸钠7份、环己硅氧烷3.5份，加入搅拌釜中，加热至75～80℃，搅拌均匀；
(2)将纯净水95份、麦芽糊精3.5份、水溶性富勒烯粉末0.6份，加入搅拌釜中，加热至68～72℃，搅拌均匀；
(3)将步骤(2)中的混合物和步骤(1)中的混合物混合，加入搅拌釜中，在60～65℃，搅拌均匀；
(4)将步骤(3)中的混合物降温至48～52℃，加入四氢双脱甲氧基二阿魏酰甲烷1.2份、抗坏血酸葡糖苷3.2份、硫酸镁4.5份，搅拌均匀；
(5)将步骤(4)中的混合物降温至42～45℃，加入川贝发酵提取物4.8份、阿魏菇提取物4.6份、白梅花提取物3.6份，搅拌均匀；冷却后出料即得。
实施例2：舒敏保湿滋润霜，通过以下步骤制成：
(1)将南瓜籽油9份、3-氨基丙烷磺酸1份、月桂酰两性基乙酸钠6份、环己硅氧烷3份，加入搅拌釜中，加热至75～80℃，搅拌均匀；
(2)将纯净水90份、麦芽糊精3份、水溶性富勒烯粉末0.5份，加入搅拌釜中，加热至68～72℃，搅拌均匀；
(3)将步骤(2)中的混合物和步骤(1)中的混合物混合，加入搅拌釜中，在60～65℃，搅拌均匀；
(4)将步骤(3)中的混合物降温至48～52℃，加入四氢双脱甲氧基二阿魏酰甲烷1份、抗坏血酸葡糖苷3份、硫酸镁4份，搅拌均匀；
(5)将步骤(4)中的混合物降温至42～45℃，加入川贝发酵提取物4.5份、阿魏菇提取物4.5份、白梅花提取物3.5份，搅拌均匀；冷却后出料即得。
实施例3：舒敏保湿滋润霜，通过以下步骤制成：
(1)将南瓜籽油10份、3-氨基丙烷磺酸1.2份、月桂酰两性基乙酸钠8份、环己硅氧烷4份，加入搅拌釜中，加热至75～80℃，搅拌均匀；
(2)将纯净水100份、麦芽糊精4份、水溶性富勒烯粉末0.8份，加入搅拌釜中，加热至68～72℃，搅拌均匀；
(3)将步骤(2)中的混合物和步骤(1)中的混合物混合，加入搅拌釜中，在60～65℃，搅拌均匀；
(4)将步骤(3)中的混合物降温至48～52℃，加入四氢双脱甲氧基二阿魏酰甲烷1.5份、抗坏血酸葡糖苷3.5份、硫酸镁5份，搅拌均匀；
(5)将步骤(4)中的混合物降温至42～45℃，加入川贝发酵提取物5份、阿魏菇提取物5份、白梅花提取物4份，搅拌均匀；冷却后出料即得。
对比例1：滋润霜，通过以下步骤制成：
(1)将南瓜籽油9.5份、3-氨基丙烷磺酸1.1份、月桂酰两性基乙酸钠7份、环己硅氧烷3.5份，加入搅拌釜中，加热至75～80℃，搅拌均匀；
(2)将纯净水95份、麦芽糊精3.5份、水溶性富勒烯粉末0.6份，加入搅拌釜中，加热至68～72℃，搅拌均匀；
(3)将步骤(2)中的混合物和步骤(1)中的混合物混合，加入搅拌釜中，在60～65℃，搅拌均匀；
(4)将步骤(3)中的混合物降温至48～52℃，加入四氢双脱甲氧基二阿魏酰甲烷1.2份、抗坏血酸葡糖苷3.2份、硫酸镁4.5份，搅拌均匀；
(5)将步骤(4)中的混合物降温至42～45℃，加入阿魏菇提取物4.6份、白梅花提取物3.6份，搅拌均匀；冷却后出料即得。
对比例2：滋润霜，通过以下步骤制成：
(1)将南瓜籽油9.5份、3-氨基丙烷磺酸1.1份、月桂酰两性基乙酸钠7份、环己硅氧烷3.5份，加入搅拌釜中，加热至75～80℃，搅拌均匀；
(2)将纯净水95份、麦芽糊精3.5份、水溶性富勒烯粉末0.6份，加入搅拌釜中，加热至68～72℃，搅拌均匀；
(3)将步骤(2)中的混合物和步骤(1)中的混合物混合，加入搅拌釜中，在60～65℃，搅拌均匀；
(4)将步骤(3)中的混合物降温至48～52℃，加入四氢双脱甲氧基二阿魏酰甲烷1.2份、抗坏血酸葡糖苷3.2份、硫酸镁4.5份，搅拌均匀；
(5)将步骤(4)中的混合物降温至42～45℃，加入川贝发酵提取物4.8份、白梅花提取物3.6份，搅拌均匀；冷却后出料即得。
斑贴实验：
选取志愿者38人，年龄构成和性别随机确定，符合2007《化妆品卫生规范》纳入、排除标准；选取上背部脊椎两侧皮肤为受试部位，皮肤分为三部分，为实施例1，对比例1、空白对照， 然后将加有斑试物的斑试器胶带自下向上贴牢；斑贴试验时间为48h；贴敷48h后，去除斑试器，30min后观察记录试验结果见图2。详细操作步骤参照斑贴试验诊断试剂盒说明书。通过图2可见采用本发明的实施例对比另外两组效果突出，可以提高皮肤的耐受性，并有修复受损肌肤减轻过敏症状的功效。
保湿试验：
试验组的设计：按照自愿原则，健康受试者40名，分为实施例1、对比例2、甘油、空白组四组。每组随机选用受试者10 名，标记好面部测试点位置。测定样品使用前、连续使用1 d、7d、14 d、28 d 后的含水量变化。让每位受试者每天早晚洁面后，在面部均匀使用样品，不同样品不得交叉使用。测试条件：温度 20~25 ℃，相对湿度50 %~60 %，测试前受试者需在测试条件下至少稳定30 min。皮肤含水量测定：用SK-5D数字肌肤测试仪(乐清市柳市立创计量设备有限公司)。测定受试者前臂内侧和面部标记点使用样品前后的水分含量，每个测试点平行测定5 次，取平均值，结果用百分数表示，结果见图3。通过图3可见采用本发明的实施例1，相对于其他对比组，保湿效果显著，长期连续使用也可以起到保湿补水、养护肌肤的功效。
Claims (3)
1.一种舒敏保湿滋润霜，其特征在于由以下重量份数的原料制成：南瓜籽油9～10份、3-氨基丙烷磺酸1～1.2份、月桂酰两性基乙酸钠6～8份、环己硅氧烷3～4份、纯净水90～100份、麦芽糊精3～4份、水溶性富勒烯粉末0.5～0.8份、四氢双脱甲氧基二阿魏酰甲烷1～1.5份、抗坏血酸葡糖苷3～3.5份、硫酸镁4～5份、川贝发酵提取物4.5～5份、阿魏菇提取物4.5～5份、白梅花提取物3.5～4份；
所述川贝发酵提取物通过以下方法获得，将川贝洗净粉碎至50～60目，然后加入18～20倍蒸馏水，115～121℃高压灭菌15～30min；接种活化的嗜酸乳酸杆菌，接种量为2％～3％，并在28～32℃，发酵3～5天；采用高压均质机将发酵液匀浆破碎后，5000～6000r/min离心10～12分钟，取上清液，真空减压浓缩，冷冻干燥获得。
2.根据权利要求1所述的舒敏保湿滋润霜，其特征在于由以下重量份数的原料制成：南瓜籽油9.5份、3-氨基丙烷磺酸1.1份、月桂酰两性基乙酸钠7份、环己硅氧烷3.5份、纯净水95份、麦芽糊精3.5份、水溶性富勒烯粉末0.6份、四氢双脱甲氧基二阿魏酰甲烷1.2份、抗坏血酸葡糖苷3.2份、硫酸镁4.5份、川贝发酵提取物4.8份、阿魏菇提取物4.6份、白梅花提取物3.6份。
3.一种制备以上任一项权利要求所述舒敏保湿滋润霜的方法，其特征在于包括以下步骤：
(1)将所述重量份数的南瓜籽油、3-氨基丙烷磺酸、月桂酰两性基乙酸钠、环己硅氧烷，加入搅拌釜中，加热至75～80℃，搅拌均匀；
(2)将所述重量份数的纯净水、麦芽糊精、水溶性富勒烯粉末，加入搅拌釜中，加热至68～72℃，搅拌均匀；
(3)将步骤(2)中的混合物和步骤(1)中的混合物混合，加入搅拌釜中，在60～65℃，搅拌均匀；
(4)将步骤(3)中的混合物降温至48～52℃，加入所述重量份数的四氢双脱甲氧基二阿魏酰甲烷、抗坏血酸葡糖苷、硫酸镁，搅拌均匀；
(5)将步骤(4)中的混合物降温至42～45℃，加入所述重量份数的川贝发酵提取物、阿魏菇提取物、白梅花提取物，搅拌均匀；冷却后出料即得。
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