CN108560104A - 一种服装面料制备方法 - Google Patents
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Abstract
本发明实施例公开了一种服装面料制备方法，通过胚布、烧毛、退浆、煮炼、丝光、染色、拉封、定型、缩水的工艺，不但节约人力物力，提高了生产效率，而且制作成品耐用性及舒适性有显著的提高。
Description
技术领域
本发明涉及面料领域，尤其涉及一种服装面料制备方法。
背景技术
现有的服装面料制备工艺复杂,不仅浪费人力物力,而且制作成品耐用性及舒适性都相对较差。
发明内容
本发明实施例所要解决的技术问题在于，提供一种生产效率高、成品耐用性及舒适性较好的服装面料制备方法。
所述服装面料制备方法，包括如下步骤:
胚布: 用全精长绒棉纱，通过织造方法组成柔软又耐磨的双面人字纹胚布;
烧毛: 用火烧胚布使其烧掉棉壳及杂质;
退浆: 用烧毛后的胚布通过高温缸推掉覆盖在棉纱上面的浆;
煮炼: 去掉杂质;
漂白：将上述煮炼后的材料漂白；
丝光: 在上述布上面打一层蜡，使布光滑;
染色:将上述打蜡的布进行染色;
拉封: 使用机器将上述布拉到合适的幅宽;
定型:对上述布进行定型处理;
缩水:对上述布进行缩水处理。
所述烧毛是将织物平幅快速通过高温火焰，其中车速100m/min、二正二反、火口温度1000-1200℃，使布面上存在的绒毛很快升温，并发生燃烧，而布身比较紧密，升温较慢，在未升到着火点时，即已离开了火焰进入浸汁灭火机箱，从而达到烧去绒毛。
所述煮炼步骤中煮炼液中烧碱用量40g/L，精炼剂用量4-6g/L；浸轧液温度90-95℃，扎液率85-90%；汽蒸温度95-100℃，汽蒸堆置70-90min。
所述煮炼液中包括烧碱、表面活性剂、亚硫酸钠、硅酸钠、磷酸钠助剂。
所述漂白步骤为在室温浸轧漂液带液率100%同时汽蒸95-100℃，45-60min后水洗加入氧化氢酶。
所述白液的配方为：H2O2（100%）4-6g/L，稳定剂4g/L，精炼剂1g/L，PH10-11。
所述丝光步骤为在室温浸轧180-260g/L烧碱溶液中保持浓碱时间50-60s，织物经纬受到一定张力后烧碱冲洗织物表面，达到每千克干织物带碱量小于70g，放松纬向张力并继续洗去织物上的烧碱，丝光落布门幅达到成品门幅上限，织物PH7-8
实施本发明实施例，具有如下有益效果：
本发明实施例一种服装面料制备方法，通过胚布、烧毛、退浆、煮炼、丝光、染色、拉封、定型、缩水的工艺，不但节约人力物力，提高了生产效率，而且制作成品耐用性及舒适性有显著的提高。
具体实施方式
为使本发明的目的、技术方案和优点更加清楚，下面将对本发明作进一步地详细描述。
本发明实施例服装面料制备方法，服装面料制备方法，包括如下步骤:
坯布准备→烧毛→退浆→煮炼→漂白→丝光→染色→拉封→定型→预缩→打卷包装
坯布：使用长绒棉赛络纺纺纱工艺纺制的纱线，并使用意大利必佳诺织机生产2/2人字斜坯布
坯布准备：检验、翻布（分批、分缸、制单）和缝头。坯布检验的目的是检查坯布质量，发现问题能及时加以解决。检验坯布物理指标（坯布经纬纱线规格和密度、米克重、幅宽、长度、强力、坯长等）外观疵点（纺纱疵点、织造疵点、油污疵点、霉斑疵点及破损疵点等）。坯布检查完毕后将坯布分批、分缸、缝接、制单染色流转卡并打印品种、加工工艺、米数、批号、缸号、颜色、色牢度、环保要求、手感、风格、发布日期和检查人员工号等等。
烧毛：使用气体烧毛机设备（进布→刷毛→烧毛→浸汁灭火→出布）
烧毛的目的在于烧去布面上的绒毛，使布面光洁美观，并防止在染色、印花时因绒毛存在而产生染色不匀及印花疵病。织物烧毛是将织物平幅快速通过高温火焰（车速100m/min、二正二反、火口温度1000-1200℃），使布面上存在的绒毛很快升温，并发生燃烧，而布身比较紧密，升温较慢，在未升到着火点时，即已离开了火焰进入浸汁灭火机箱，从而达到烧去绒毛。
退浆：使用酶退浆工艺（预水洗→浸渍酶退浆液→保温堆置→水洗后处理），其原理是催化淀粉大分子链发生水解，生成分子量较小、粘度较低、溶解度较高的一些低分子化合物，再经水洗除去水解产物而达到退浆目的。酶高度专一生物催化剂，高效率，条件缓和，环保等特点。退浆目的是让坯布上的淀粉为主的混合浆料退除，使织物提高吸水性能。
煮炼：使用平幅连续汽蒸煮炼设备（浸轧煮炼液→汽蒸设备→水洗→烘干→出布）。煮炼液中烧碱用量40g/L，精炼剂用量4-6g/L；浸轧液温度90-95℃，扎液率85-90%；汽蒸温度95-100℃，汽蒸堆置70-90min。煮炼用剂包括烧碱、表面活性剂、亚硫酸钠、硅酸钠、磷酸钠等助剂。煮炼目的是有效的退除棉纤维果胶质、蜡状物质、含氮物质、棉籽壳等发生化学降解反应。提高吸水性，有利于染色过程中染料的吸附和扩散。煮炼效果评定如下（织物一端垂直浸在含有重铬酸钾水中，30min内织物吸水上升至10cm以上）测试结果织物渗透性极佳，可染任意色。
漂白：轧漂汽蒸工艺（室温浸轧漂液带液率100%→汽蒸95-100℃，45-60min→水洗加入氧化氢酶）漂白漂液配方：H2O2（100%）4-6g/L，稳定剂4g/L，精炼剂1g/L，PH10-11使用双氧水漂白后对织物白度较高，不泛黄，手感好
丝光：布铗丝光工艺（室温浸轧180-260g/L烧碱溶液→保持浓碱时间50-60s→织物经纬受到一定张力后烧碱冲洗织物表面，达到每千克干织物带碱量小于70g→放松纬向张力并继续洗去织物上的烧碱→丝光落布门幅达到成品门幅上限，织物PH7-8）丝光目的让纤维膨化，纤维纵向天然扭转消失，横截面成椭圆形，光反射更加有规律，增加纤维的光泽。增加无定形区，晶区减少而提高织物吸附染料达到最佳。提供织物尺寸稳定型，断裂强度。
本发明实施例一种服装面料制备方法，通过胚布、烧毛、退浆、煮炼、丝光、染色、拉封、定型、缩水的工艺，不但节约人力物力，提高了生产效率，而且制作成品耐用性及舒适性有显著的提高。
以上所揭露的仅为本发明一种较佳实施例而已，当然不能以此来限定本发明之权利范围，因此依本发明权利要求所作的等同变化，仍属本发明所涵盖的范围。
Claims (7)
1.一种服装面料制备方法，其特征在于：包括如下步骤:
胚布: 用全精长绒棉纱，通过织造方法组成柔软又耐磨的双面人字纹胚布;
烧毛: 用火烧胚布使其烧掉棉壳及杂质;
退浆: 用烧毛后的胚布通过高温缸推掉覆盖在棉纱上面的浆;
煮炼: 去掉杂质;
漂白：将上述煮炼后的材料漂白；
丝光: 在上述布上面打一层蜡，使布光滑;
染色:将上述打蜡的布进行染色;
拉封: 使用机器将上述布拉到合适的幅宽;
定型:对上述布进行定型处理;
缩水:对上述布进行缩水处理。
2.如权利要求1所述的服装面料制备方法，其特征在于，所述烧毛是将织物平幅快速通过高温火焰，其中车速100m/min、二正二反、火口温度1000-1200℃，使布面上存在的绒毛很快升温，并发生燃烧，而布身比较紧密，升温较慢，在未升到着火点时，即已离开了火焰进入浸汁灭火机箱，从而达到烧去绒毛。
3.如权利要求1所述的服装面料制备方法，其特征在于，所述煮炼步骤中煮炼液中烧碱用量40g/L，精炼剂用量4-6g/L；浸轧液温度90-95℃，扎液率85-90%；汽蒸温度95-100℃，汽蒸堆置70-90min。
4.如权利要求3所述的服装面料制备方法，其特征在于，所述煮炼液中包括烧碱、表面活性剂、亚硫酸钠、硅酸钠、磷酸钠助剂。
5.如权利要求1所述的服装面料制备方法，其特征在于，所述漂白步骤为在室温浸轧漂液带液率100%同时汽蒸95-100℃，45-60min后水洗加入氧化氢酶。
6.如权利要求5所述的服装面料制备方法，其特征在于，所述白液的配方为：H2O2（100%）4-6g/L，稳定剂4g/L，精炼剂1g/L，PH10-11。
7.如权利要求1所述的服装面料制备方法，其特征在于，所述丝光步骤为在室温浸轧180-260g/L烧碱溶液中保持浓碱时间50-60s，织物经纬受到一定张力后烧碱冲洗织物表面，达到每千克干织物带碱量小于70g，放松纬向张力并继续洗去织物上的烧碱，丝光落布门幅达到成品门幅上限，织物PH7-8。
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| CN113684589A (zh) * | 2021-08-27 | 2021-11-23 | 福建省向兴纺织科技有限公司 | 一种弹性透气面料的制作工艺 |
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| CN113684589A (zh) * | 2021-08-27 | 2021-11-23 | 福建省向兴纺织科技有限公司 | 一种弹性透气面料的制作工艺 |
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