CN108442020B - 一种防钻绒弹性羽绒面料织物的制备方法 - Google Patents
一种防钻绒弹性羽绒面料织物的制备方法 Download PDFInfo
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Abstract
本发明涉及一种防钻绒弹性羽绒面料织物的制备方法,其步骤为:以涤纶POY高弹丝为经纱和纬纱,织造得织物I;采用溢流工艺染色后进行加超位定型得织物II;进行高温预缩得织物III;依次经初步压光处理I、初步压光处理II和镜面压光处理得织物IV,初步压光处理I的压力为100~150T,温度为150~200℃,初步压光处理II的压力为120~180T,温度为220~250℃,镜面压光处理的压力为120~140T,温度为140~160℃;织物IV与针织布通过粘结胶水进行点状粘结复合制得防钻绒弹性羽绒面料织物。本发明工艺简单,成本低廉;制得的织物防钻绒性能好,同时弹性及透湿性好,穿着舒适性好,极具推广价值。
Description
技术领域
本发明属于服装面料制造领域,涉及一种防钻绒弹性羽绒面料织物的制备方法。
背景技术
羽绒制品是指以养殖的鸭、鹅的毛、绒为填充料,羽绒面料为填充结构,再加以缝制的综合性实用产品。羽绒面料作为羽绒制品的重要组成部分,对于羽绒制品的整体质量稳定起关键作用。羽绒面料作为市场上家纺与服装使用的常用面料,如羽绒服、羽绒被等,具有保暖。舒适轻便等特点。
近年来,国内外对羽绒面料及其相关领域进行了深入的探究。主要集中在对羽绒面料的保暖性、热舒适性、透气性以及防钻绒性等性能指标,其中关于羽绒面料钻绒的相关研究尤为突出。因为羽绒面料钻绒的直接影响羽绒面料的寿命以及使用性能,并且可能直接影响人体健康。羽绒面料的钻绒问题也是购买者长期投诉的焦点问题之一,因此,羽绒面料的防钻绒性逐渐成为消费者以及生产者对于羽绒制品质量的重点关注点。一般认为,羽绒服的钻绒是由羽绒纤维的蓬松性导致的,当羽绒面料受到外界挤压时,静止空气从羽绒面料的空隙或者缝纫线的针孔中透出,羽绒随空气钻出内腔。因此,根据钻绒部位的不同,一般可以把钻绒部位归为4类,即面料部位钻绒、缝线针脚部位钻绒、夹于内胆与里料之间钻绒(俗称“内跑绒”)及缝制不良钻绒(如拆返工形成的针孔、没有在有效门幅内使用内胆、面料表面粘附羽绒未清理干净等)。
现阶段,针对面料部位的防钻绒处理主要有以下几种方法:一种方法是对面料表面进行涂层处理,也是现阶段最主要地针对面料部位防钻绒处理的方法,由于涂层的存在,可以有效地减少羽绒在面料缝隙内的穿出,但经过涂层处理的面料其透气以及透湿性能很差,导致可穿着性较差;另一种方法是采用双层或多层织物面料,即机织物由表经、里经两个或多个***的经纱与表纬、里纬两个或多个***的纬纱交织而成,虽然该面料防钻绒效果较好,但通常比较厚且重,且织造过程复杂,成本较高。
因此,开发一种织造简单、成本低廉且穿着舒适性较好的防钻绒羽绒面料极具现实意义。
发明内容
本发明的目的是为了克服现有技术舒适性较差、织造复杂及成本较高的缺陷,提供了一种织造简单、成本低廉且穿着舒适性较好的防钻绒弹性羽绒面料的制备方法。首先本发明选用涤纶POY高弹丝作为经、纬纱交织成织物,此时织物没有弹性;然后与通过染色定型后由于弹力丝的作用下织物会恢复一定弹性,再经过高温预缩处理后,织物会保持其本身的弹性不变;其次通过多次压光处理缩小织物中的孔隙,降低织物的透气性,从而能够有效防止羽绒的钻出;最终将织物与针织布点状粘结进一步减低织物的透气性。本发明的制备方法与普通羽绒面料相比,由于织物没有经过传统的表面涂层处理,所以保持了较好的透湿性,极大地改善了面料穿着时的舒适性,具有较好的市场前景。
为了达到上述目的,本发明采用的技术方案为:
一种防钻绒弹性羽绒面料织物的制备方法,其包括以下步骤:
(1)以涤纶POY高弹丝为经纱和纬纱,织造得到织物I,经纱规格为40D50F~70D10F,纬纱规格为40D50F~70D10F,经纱密度为510~600根/10cm,纬纱密度为510~600根/10cm;
(2)染色定型:采用溢流工艺对织物I进行染色,再进行加超位定型得到织物II;经过织造工艺所制取的织物I由于经纬纱的相互交织作用造成织物I没有弹性,因此织物I必须进行染色处理,经过染色处理后,织物I的回缩率可达20%~30%,会具有一定的弹性,在染色后进行加超定位定型是由于染色后织物I的回缩率过大造成布面不平整,对其进行加超定位定型可以使织物表面平整,并同时保持一定的弹性;
(3)高温预缩:对织物II进行高温预缩得到织物III,这可使织物布料保持其染色定型后的弹性以及平整性;
(4)压光处理:对织物III依次进行初步压光处理I、初步压光处理II和镜面压光处理得到织物IV,所述初步压光处理I的压力为100~150T,温度为150~200℃;所述初步压光处理II的压力为120~180T,温度为220~250℃;所述镜面压光处理的压力为120~140T,温度为140~160℃;现有技术多进行初步压光处理及镜面压光处理以改善面料光泽及柔软度,其压力及温度比本发明的压力及温度更低,并未改变织物纤维的组织结构。
对织物经过2次初步压光处理是为了通过对涤纶POY高弹丝进行高温处理,使得涤纶POY高弹丝的部分结构会向玻璃化结构转化,从而改变了涤纶POY高弹丝的横截面结构,使其横截面由圆形变为扁平形,从而更一步缩小了织物中空隙的大小,织物III经过初步压光处理I处理后的透气性约为10~14,透气性较高达不到防钻绒的要求,因此对其进行初步压光处理II,处理后透气性进一步减低,约为8~10;初步压光处理的压力过高会使织物太过僵硬,过低压光效果太差,温度太低原料玻璃化转变不够,温度太高玻璃化转变严重,布面会太过僵硬;初步压光处理II压力以及温度的设置应适当比初步压光处理I的条件高,这样设置的原因是因为逐步提高初步压光处理的条件可以使织物逐渐向玻璃化转变,从而提高其防钻绒性以及使织物不过于僵硬;经过2次初步压光处理后的织物防钻绒性能逐渐提高,但经过高温高压处理后织物手感硬挺,为进一步提高其防钻绒性能以及改善其柔软度,对其进行1次镜面压光处理,进过镜面压光处理后的织物的透气性可达5~8;镜面压光的压力以及温度都比初步压光的条件低,主要作用是使织物平整以及更加柔软,但压力及温度过低无法完成实现柔软目的;
(5)织物复合:织物IV与针织布通过粘结胶水进行点状粘结复合制得防钻绒弹性羽绒面料织物,气压检测合格的织物IV即为防钻绒弹性羽绒面料的外层,针织布为防钻绒弹性羽绒面料的内层,通过胶水将织物IV和针织布一方面进一步降低了其透气性,另一方面可避免由织物IV粘结力较差导致的后续加工困难问题。
作为优选的技术方案:
如上所述的一种防钻绒弹性羽绒面料织物的制备方法,所述防钻绒弹性羽绒面料织物的透气性小于等于4,透湿性为1800~2000g/m2·24h,弹性回复性为3~5%,织物的透气性是反映其防钻绒性的最重要和直接指标。现有技术中防钻绒羽绒面料织物的透气性是4以下,现有技术防钻绒羽绒面料织物的透湿性为1500~17000g/m2·24h,弹性回复性为0.5~2%。
如上所述的一种防钻绒弹性羽绒面料织物的制备方法,所述织物I的织物组织为平纹、斜纹或缎纹,本发明的保护范围并不仅限于此,其他类型的织物组织也可适用于本发明。
如上所述的一种防钻绒弹性羽绒面料织物的制备方法,所述加超定位定型是根据布料的出缸宽度进行的。
如上所述的一种防钻绒弹性羽绒面料织物的制备方法,所述高温预缩是指将织物II放置在205~225℃的蒸汽中进行处理3~5min,此温度以及时间可以使其达到最佳预缩效果,采用其他温度及时间也可对织物进行处理,本发明的保护范围并不仅限于此。
如上所述的一种防钻绒弹性羽绒面料织物的制备方法,步骤(5)中的织物IV为气压检测合格后的织物IV,所述气压检测合格是指织物透气性为5~8。对织物IV进行气压检测,织物IV的透气性为5~8即为合格进行下步操作,一般要求织物的透气性在4以下才能达到防钻绒的目的,虽然经过上述压光处理后的织物没有达到绝对的防钻绒效果,但其防钻绒性能已极大改善。
如上所述的一种防钻绒弹性羽绒面料织物的制备方法,所述针织布为10D~50D涤纶针织布。
有益效果:
(1)本发明的一种防钻绒弹性羽绒面料织物的制备方法,工艺简单,成本低廉;
(2)本发明的一种防钻绒弹性羽绒面料织物的制备方法,制得的织物透气性低即防钻绒性能好,同时弹性及透湿性好,穿着舒适性好,极具推广价值。
具体实施方式
下面结合具体实施方式,进一步阐述本发明。应理解,这些实施例仅用于说明本发明而不用于限制本发明的范围。此外应理解,在阅读了本发明讲授的内容之后,本领域技术人员可以对本发明作各种改动或修改,这些等价形式同样落于本申请所附权利要求书所限定的范围。
实施例1
一种防钻绒弹性羽绒面料织物的制备方法,其步骤如下:
(1)以涤纶POY高弹丝为经纱和纬纱,织造得到织物I,经纱的规格为40D50F,纬纱的规格为70D10F,经纱的密度为510根/10cm,纬纱的密度为510根/10cm,织物I的织物组织为平纹;
(2)染色定型:采用溢流工艺对织物I进行染色,再进行加超位定型得到织物II,加超定位定型是根据布料的出缸宽度进行的;
(3)高温预缩:将织物II放置在205℃的蒸汽中进行处理3min得到织物III;
(4)压光处理:对织物III依次进行初步压光处理I、初步压光处理II和镜面压光处理得到织物IV,初步压光处理I的压力为100T,温度为150℃;初步压光处理II的压力为120T,温度为220℃;镜面压光处理的压力为120T,温度为140℃;
(5)气压检测:对织物IV进行气压检测,织物IV的透气性为5~8即为合格进行下步操作;
(6)织物复合:气压检测合格的织物IV与10D涤纶针织布通过粘结胶水进行点状粘结复合制得防钻绒弹性羽绒面料织物。
最终制得的防钻绒弹性羽绒面料织物的透气性为4,透湿性为1800g/m2·24h,弹性回复性为3.5%。
本方法制得的防钻绒弹性羽绒面料织物在保持了防钻绒性能的同时,弹性及透湿性优异,极具推广价值。
实施例2
一种防钻绒弹性羽绒面料织物的制备方法,其步骤如下:
(1)以涤纶POY高弹丝为经纱和纬纱,织造得到织物I,经纱的规格为70D10F,纬纱的规格为40D50F,经纱的密度为600根/10cm,纬纱的密度为600根/10cm,织物I的织物组织为斜纹;
(2)染色定型:采用溢流工艺对织物I进行染色,再进行加超位定型得到织物II,加超定位定型是根据布料的出缸宽度进行的;
(3)高温预缩:将织物II放置在225℃的蒸汽中进行处理5min得到织物III;
(4)压光处理:对织物III依次进行初步压光处理I、初步压光处理II和镜面压光处理得到织物IV,初步压光处理I的压力为150T,温度为200℃;初步压光处理II的压力为180T,温度为250℃;镜面压光处理的压力为140T,温度为160℃;
(5)气压检测:对织物IV进行气压检测,织物IV的透气性为5~8即为合格进行下步操作;
(6)织物复合:气压检测合格的织物IV与50D涤纶针织布通过粘结胶水进行点状粘结复合制得防钻绒弹性羽绒面料织物。
最终制得的防钻绒弹性羽绒面料织物的透气性为3,透湿性为1800g/m2·24h,弹性回复性为3%。
本方法制得的防钻绒弹性羽绒面料织物在保持了防钻绒性能的同时,弹性及透湿性优异,极具推广价值。
实施例3
一种防钻绒弹性羽绒面料织物的制备方法,其步骤如下:
(1)以涤纶POY高弹丝为经纱和纬纱,织造得到织物I,经纱的规格为50D72F,纬纱的规格为50D72F,经纱的密度为555根/10cm,纬纱的密度为555根/10cm,织物I的织物组织为缎纹;
(2)染色定型:采用溢流工艺对织物I进行染色,再进行加超位定型得到织物II,加超定位定型是根据布料的出缸宽度进行的;
(3)高温预缩:将织物II放置在215℃的蒸汽中进行处理4min得到织物III;
(4)压光处理:对织物III依次进行初步压光处理I、初步压光处理II和镜面压光处理得到织物IV,初步压光处理I的压力为125T,温度为175℃;初步压光处理II的压力为150T,温度为235℃;镜面压光处理的压力为130T,温度为150℃;
(5)气压检测:对织物IV进行气压检测,织物IV的透气性为5~8即为合格进行下步操作;
(6)织物复合:气压检测合格的织物IV与30D涤纶针织布通过粘结胶水进行点状粘结复合制得防钻绒弹性羽绒面料织物。
最终制得的防钻绒弹性羽绒面料织物的透气性为4,透湿性为1850g/m2·24h,弹性回复性为5%。
本方法制得的防钻绒弹性羽绒面料织物在保持了防钻绒性能的同时,弹性及透湿性优异,极具推广价值。
实施例4
一种防钻绒弹性羽绒面料织物的制备方法,其步骤如下:
(1)以涤纶POY高弹丝为经纱和纬纱,织造得到织物I,经纱的规格为40D50F,纬纱的规格为40D50F,经纱的密度为530根/10cm,纬纱的密度为580根/10cm,织物I的织物组织为斜纹;
(2)染色定型:采用溢流工艺对织物I进行染色,再进行加超位定型得到织物II,加超定位定型是根据布料的出缸宽度进行的;
(3)高温预缩:将织物II放置在220℃的蒸汽中进行处理3min得到织物III;
(4)压光处理:对织物III依次进行初步压光处理I、初步压光处理II和镜面压光处理得到织物IV,初步压光处理I的压力为120T,温度为180℃;初步压光处理II的压力为140T,温度为230℃;镜面压光处理的压力为125T,温度为145℃;
(5)气压检测:对织物IV进行气压检测,织物IV的透气性为5~8即为合格进行下步操作;
(6)织物复合:气压检测合格的织物IV与20D涤纶针织布通过粘结胶水进行点状粘结复合制得防钻绒弹性羽绒面料织物。
最终制得的防钻绒弹性羽绒面料织物的透气性为3.5,透湿性为1900g/m2·24h,弹性回复性为4%。
本方法制得的防钻绒弹性羽绒面料织物在保持了防钻绒性能的同时,弹性及透湿性优异,极具推广价值。
实施例5
一种防钻绒弹性羽绒面料织物的制备方法,其步骤如下:
(1)以涤纶POY高弹丝为经纱和纬纱,织造得到织物I,经纱的规格为70D10F,纬纱的规格为70D10F,经纱的密度为560根/10cm,纬纱的密度为540根/10cm,织物I的织物组织为平纹;
(2)染色定型:采用溢流工艺对织物I进行染色,再进行加超位定型得到织物II,加超定位定型是根据布料的出缸宽度进行的;
(3)高温预缩:将织物II放置在220℃的蒸汽中进行处理4min得到织物III;
(4)压光处理:对织物III依次进行初步压光处理I、初步压光处理II和镜面压光处理得到织物IV,初步压光处理I的压力为120T,温度为155℃;初步压光处理II的压力为145T,温度为240℃;镜面压光处理的压力为125T,温度为145℃;
(5)气压检测:对织物IV进行气压检测,织物IV的透气性为5~8即为合格进行下步操作;
(6)织物复合:气压检测合格的织物IV与40D涤纶针织布通过粘结胶水进行点状粘结复合制得防钻绒弹性羽绒面料织物。
最终制得的防钻绒弹性羽绒面料织物的透气性为4,透湿性为1950g/m2·24h,弹性回复性为4.8%。
本方法制得的防钻绒弹性羽绒面料织物在保持了防钻绒性能的同时,弹性及透湿性优异,极具推广价值。
实施例6
一种防钻绒弹性羽绒面料织物的制备方法,其步骤如下:
(1)以涤纶POY高弹丝为经纱和纬纱,织造得到织物I,经纱的规格为50D72F,纬纱的规格为40D50F,经纱的密度为510根/10cm,纬纱的密度为600根/10cm,织物I的织物组织为缎纹;
(2)染色定型:采用溢流工艺对织物I进行染色,再进行加超位定型得到织物II,加超定位定型是根据布料的出缸宽度进行的;
(3)高温预缩:将织物II放置在205℃的蒸汽中进行处理5min得到织物III;
(4)压光处理:对织物III依次进行初步压光处理I、初步压光处理II和镜面压光处理得到织物IV,初步压光处理I的压力为145T,温度为165℃;初步压光处理II的压力为170T,温度为240℃;镜面压光处理的压力为140T,温度为160℃;
(5)气压检测:对织物IV进行气压检测,织物IV的透气性为5~8即为合格进行下步操作;
(6)织物复合:气压检测合格的织物IV与10D涤纶针织布通过粘结胶水进行点状粘结复合制得防钻绒弹性羽绒面料织物。
最终制得的防钻绒弹性羽绒面料织物的透气性为3.8,透湿性为2000g/m2·24h,弹性回复性为3.5%。
本方法制得的防钻绒弹性羽绒面料织物在保持了防钻绒性能的同时,弹性及透湿性优异,极具推广价值。
Claims (7)
1.一种防钻绒弹性羽绒面料织物的制备方法,其特征是:包括以下步骤:
(1)以涤纶POY高弹丝为经纱和纬纱,织造得到织物I,经纱规格为40D50F~70D10F,纬纱规格为40D50F~70D10F,经纱密度为510~600根/10cm,纬纱密度为510~600根/10cm;
(2)染色定型:采用溢流工艺对织物I进行染色,再进行加超位定型得到织物II;
(3)高温预缩:对织物II进行高温预缩得到织物III;
(4)压光处理:对织物III依次进行初步压光处理I、初步压光处理II和镜面压光处理得到织物IV,所述初步压光处理I的压力为100~150T,温度为150~200℃;所述初步压光处理II的压力为120~180T,温度为220~250℃;所述镜面压光处理的压力为120~140T,温度为140~160℃;
(5)织物复合:织物IV与针织布通过粘结胶水进行点状粘结复合制得防钻绒弹性羽绒面料织物。
2.根据权利要求1所述的一种防钻绒弹性羽绒面料织物的制备方法,其特征在于,所述防钻绒弹性羽绒面料织物的透气性小于等于4,透湿性为1800~2000g/m2·24h,弹性回复性为3~5%。
3.根据权利要求1所述的一种防钻绒弹性羽绒面料织物的制备方法,其特征在于,所述织物I的织物组织为平纹、斜纹或缎纹。
4.根据权利要求1所述的一种防钻绒弹性羽绒面料织物的制备方法,其特征在于,所述加超定位定型是根据布料的出缸宽度进行的。
5.根据权利要求1所述的一种防钻绒弹性羽绒面料织物的制备方法,其特征在于,所述高温预缩是指将织物II放置在205~225℃的蒸汽中进行处理3~5min。
6.根据权利要求1所述的一种防钻绒弹性羽绒面料织物的制备方法,其特征在于,步骤(5)中的织物IV为气压检测合格后的织物IV,所述气压检测合格是指织物透气性为5~8。
7.根据权利要求1所述的一种防钻绒弹性羽绒面料织物的制备方法,其特征在于,所述针织布为10D~50D涤纶针织布。
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