CN108113914A - 一种不添加香精防腐剂的精华霜及其制备方法 - Google Patents
一种不添加香精防腐剂的精华霜及其制备方法 Download PDFInfo
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- CN108113914A CN108113914A CN201810177681.7A CN201810177681A CN108113914A CN 108113914 A CN108113914 A CN 108113914A CN 201810177681 A CN201810177681 A CN 201810177681A CN 108113914 A CN108113914 A CN 108113914A
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Abstract
本发明公开了一种不添加香精防腐剂的精华霜，按质量百分比计由以下组分组成：羟乙基脲1～5％，海藻糖0.5～2％，β‑葡聚糖0.01～0.02％，果聚糖0.5～1.5％，角鲨烷0.1～1.0％，霍霍巴籽油0.1～1.0％，环聚二甲基硅氧烷2.0～3.0％，聚二甲基硅氧烷3.0～4.0％，酵母菌发酵产物滤液10～15％，马齿苋提取物1.0～2.5％，柚提取物1.0～2.0％，墨角藻提取物0.5％，绞股蓝叶提取物3.5％，黑莓果提取物0.6～1.0％，神经酰胺3 0.005～0.02％，辅助组分10％～12％，余量为水。本发明的精华霜具有帮助肌肤保持良好的舒适状态、补水、保湿、活化、抗炎、修复等全方位的功效。
Description
技术领域
本发明涉及日化用品技术领域，尤其涉及一种不添加香精防腐剂的精华霜及其制备方法。
背景技术
时至今日，随着经济的发展，越来越快的工作、生活节奏，越来越大的精神压力，加上不良的生活习惯、恶劣环境、紫外线、不正确的皮肤护理等众多因素对皮肤的伤害，越来越多的人都被干燥、粗糙、没弹性、肤色黯哑、满脸倦容、粗糙、毛孔粗大等皮肤状况紊乱的综合问题困扰，因此，也有越来越多的人对护肤品的要求越来越高，各大日化公司更是推出种类繁多的化妆品。而精华霜作为生活护肤用品使用非常频繁，特别是针对女性的精华霜种类繁多、功能不一、让人眼花缭乱。但是现有市场上的精华霜针对现有的综合性皮肤问题总不能够很好的解决，常常解决了一方面的问题同时又加深了另一方面的问题。
此外，以往的精华霜中常常含有防腐剂和香精等化学物质，长期使用对皮肤会产生一定的刺激与有害作用。目前，无添加化妆品由于不含防腐剂、香料、色素和矿物油，从而大大降低了对人皮肤的刺激性，备受人们喜爱，目前在欧美、日本和港台已很流行，是国际化妆品的发展潮流。
发明内容
为了解决现有技术中的不足，本发明提供了一种不添加香精防腐剂的精华霜及其制备方法，具有帮助肌肤保持良好的舒适状态、补水、保湿、活化、抗炎、修复等全方位的功效。
为了实现上述目的，本发明采用如下技术方案：
一种不添加香精防腐剂的精华霜，按质量百分比计由以下组分组成：羟乙基脲1～5％，海藻糖0.5～2％，β-葡聚糖0.01～0.02％，果聚糖0.5～1.5％，角鲨烷0.1～1.0％，霍霍巴籽油0.1～1.0％，环聚二甲基硅氧烷2.0～3.0％，聚二甲基硅氧烷3.0～4.0％，酵母菌发酵产物滤液10～15％，马齿苋提取物1.0～2.5％，柚提取物1.0～2.0％，墨角藻提取物0.5％，绞股蓝叶提取物3.5％，黑莓果提取物0.6～1.0％，神经酰胺3 0.005～0.02％，辅助组分10％～12％，余量为水。
优选地，所述不添加香精防腐剂的精华霜，按质量百分比计由以下组分组成：羟乙基脲3％，海藻糖1.5％，β-葡聚糖0.02％，果聚糖1.5％，角鲨烷1.0％，霍霍巴籽油0.6％，环聚二甲基硅氧烷2.8％，聚二甲基硅氧烷3.3％，酵母菌发酵产物滤液15％，马齿苋提取物1.5％，柚提取物2.0％，墨角藻提取物0.5％，绞股蓝叶提取物3.5％，黑莓果提取物0.9％，神经酰胺3 0.015％，辅助组分10.9％，余量为水。
进一步地，所述辅助组分中不包含香精和防腐剂。
进一步地，所述辅助组分包含乳化剂、多元醇、抗氧化剂、精油。
进一步地，所述乳化剂为鲸蜡基PEG/PPF-10/1聚二甲基硅氧烷、PEG-30二聚羟基硬脂酸酯、PEG-10聚二甲基硅氧烷、甘油辛酸酯、氯化钠其中至少一种。优选地，所述乳化剂按质量百分比计包括鲸蜡基PEG/PPF-10/1聚二甲基硅氧烷1.5％、甘油辛酸酯0.2％、氯化钠0.6％。
进一步地，所述多元醇为甘油、丁二醇、1,3-丙二醇、1,2-己二醇、山梨醇其中至少一种。优选地，所述多元醇按质量百分比计包括甘油5％、1,3-丙二醇3.0％、1,2-己二醇0.4％。
进一步地，所述抗氧化剂为对羟基苯乙酮、BHT、维生素E其中至少一种。优选地，所述抗氧化剂按质量百分比计包括对羟基苯乙酮0.15％。
进一步地，所述辅助组分精油为玫瑰精油、韩国YUJA精油、薰衣草精油其中至少一种。优选地，所述精油按质量百分比计包括韩国YUJA精油：0.05％。
一种所述的不添加香精防腐剂的精华霜的制备方法，包含以下步骤：
(1)将羟乙基脲、海藻糖、β-葡聚糖、果聚糖、酵母菌发酵产物滤液、马齿苋提取物、柚提取物、墨角藻提取物、绞股蓝叶提取物、黑莓果提取物、多元醇、抗氧化剂加入部分去离子水中，加热至40～50℃，得到水相，并抽入乳化锅中；
(2)将乳化剂、角鲨烷、霍霍巴籽油、环聚二甲基硅氧烷、聚二甲基硅氧烷、精油、神经酰胺3加热至30～40℃，得到油相，并抽入乳化锅中；
(3)在乳化锅中保持40℃以上温度真空均质10分钟；
(4)均质结束后出料、静置、检验、包装、罐装，即制得多功能轻盈水润不含香精防腐剂的精华霜。
本发明中的羟乙基脲，INCI命名：羟乙基脲，CAS：1320-51-0；是极佳的保湿剂，能渗透进入角质层中，增加皮肤含水量，缓解干燥，填补细纹，增加皮肤弹性，并提供愉快的使用感觉。也能通过和皮肤角质层形成液晶相，阻止角质层向固体晶相转化，来达到使皮肤柔软的目的。
本发明中的海藻糖，INCI命名：海藻糖，CAS：99-20-7；一种天然保护剂。海藻糖是广泛存在于植物和动物中的天然糖类。能够在细胞表层形成一层特殊的保护膜，保持皮肤原有营养和水分，避免皮肤晒伤及黑色素沉淀，有效抵抗皮肤老化现象。
本发明中的β-葡聚糖，INCI命名：β-葡聚糖，CAS：160872-27-5；是从一种叫做“裂褶菌”的蘑菇水生载培菌丝体中萃取得到。有显著的抗衰老功能，减少皮肤皱纹，提高皮肤弹性，改善皮肤纹理度；提高皮肤的免疫机能，增强对皮肤保护，有显著的消炎抗菌功能；长时间的高效保湿效果，在皮肤上形成透明、有弹性、透气的薄膜，能够锁紧皮肤水分，赋予皮肤如丝绸般滋润光滑的触感；促进成纤维细胞合成胶原蛋白，促进伤口愈合，修复受损肌肤。
本发明中的果聚糖，INCI命名：果聚糖，CAS：9013-95-0；果聚糖是一类有利于人体健康的碳水化合物，是多个葡萄糖分子通过β-糖甘键连接而成。迅速修复受破坏的皮肤屏障保持细胞水分、通过阻止发炎介白细胞介素的释放达到抗炎功效、促进细胞再生长，是多效的保湿剂。
本发明中的角鲨烷，INCI命名：角鲨烷，CAS：111-01-3；是从深海鲨鱼肝脏中提取的角鲨烯经氢化制得一种性能优异的烃类油脂。角鲨烷是最接近人体皮脂的一种脂类，亲和力强，能够与人类自身的皮脂膜融为一体，在皮肤表面形成一层天然的屏障。角鲨烷还能抑制皮肤脂质的过氧化，能有效渗透入肌肤，并促进皮肤基底细胞的增殖，对延缓皮肤老化，改善并消除黄褐斑均有明显的生理效果。角鲨烷还可使皮肤毛孔张开，促进血液微循环，增进细胞的新陈代谢，帮助修复破损细胞。
本发明中的霍霍巴籽油，INCI命名：霍霍巴(SIMMONDSIA CHINENSIS)籽油，CAS：61789-91-1；从墨西哥和亚利桑那沙漠地区中的灌木的坚果中提取出这种油，含丰富的维他命成分，极易吸收，可治疗受伤皮肤，具滋养柔化肌肤功效。
本发明中的酵母菌发酵产物滤液，INCI命名：酵母菌发酵产物滤液，是通过酵母菌发酵而成，含多种皮肤所需的氨基酸、肽类、核苷酸。能改善皮肤代谢，使皮肤更加细嫩；加快清除皮肤自由基，减缓细胞组织的老化速度；具有多种皮肤护理效果。
本发明中的马齿苋提取物，INCI命名：马齿苋(PORTULACA OLERACEA)提取物，CAS：90083-07-1；是以马齿苋科植物马齿苋的干燥全草为原料提取的物质。具有抗过敏、抗炎消炎和抗外界对皮肤的各种刺激作用，有祛痘功能。
本发明中的柚提取物，INCI命名：柚(CITRUS GRANDIS)提取物，CAS：90045-43-5；具有抗菌消炎、抗氧化功效。
本发明中的墨角藻提取物，INCI命名：墨角藻(FUCUS VESICULOSUS)提取物，CAS：84696-13-9；由墨角藻全株萃取的，有效成分为墨藻聚糖，富含谷氨酸、钙及碘元素，具有保湿、增加肌肤的柔软和光滑程度的功效。
本发明中的绞股蓝叶提取物，INCI命名：绞股蓝(GYNOSTEMMA PENTAPHYLLUM)叶提取物，由新鲜的绞股蓝的叶子萃取的，提升皮肤细胞内的水通道蛋白，让细胞从内部提升吸水能力，从而达到细胞水润皮肤保湿滋润的效果。
本发明中的黑莓果提取物，INCI命名：黑莓(RUBUS FRUTICOSUS)果提取物，由新鲜的黑莓果萃取得到，CAS：84787-69-9；富含原花青素、花青素、超氧化物歧化酶，硒、鞣花酸和类黄酮等高效抗氧化性活性物。具有很好的抗氧化、抗衰老和调节人体生理功能等作用。
本发明中的神经酰胺3，INCI命名：神经酰胺3，CAS：100403-19-8；植物来源，通过发酵法获得的与天然神经酰胺结构相同的纯神经酰胺。即时促进皮脂屏障修复，减少经皮水分流失和增加皮肤水分。维持皮肤的年轻与活力，强化免疫功能。
本发明的不含香精防腐剂的精华霜，完全符合国家颁布的《化妆品安全技术规范》(2014版)中的各项指标，该组合物不含有任何有毒物质。
本发明的不含香精防腐剂的精华霜，是一种可以用于人体减重减尺寸，同时可以养护皮肤的膏霜。
与现有技术相比，本发明的有益效果为：本发明提供的不含香精防腐剂的精华霜通过羟乙基脲、海藻糖、β-葡聚糖、果聚糖、角鲨烷、霍霍巴籽油、环聚二甲基硅氧烷、聚二甲基硅氧烷、酵母菌发酵产物滤液、马齿苋提取物、柚提取物、墨角藻提取物、绞股蓝叶提取物、黑莓果提取物、神经酰胺等成分的科学组合，轻盈水润，可以帮助肌肤保持良好的舒适状态，达到补水、保湿、活化、抗炎、修复等全方位的功效；而且本发明中不含香精和防腐剂等化学合成物质，大大降低了对人体皮肤的刺激性；本发明的制备方法工艺简单，易于操作，生产较易控制，提高了生产效率，降低了能耗。
具体实施方式
下面将采用实施例对本发明作进一步地说明，但本发明不局限于这些实施例。
实施例1
一种不添加香精防腐剂的精华霜，按质量百分比计由以下组分组成：羟乙基脲1％，海藻糖0.5％，β-葡聚糖0.01％，果聚糖0.5％，角鲨烷0.1％，霍霍巴籽油0.1％，环聚二甲基硅氧烷2.0％，聚二甲基硅氧烷3.0％，酵母菌发酵产物滤液10％，马齿苋提取物1.0％，柚提取物1.0％，墨角藻提取物0.5％，绞股蓝叶提取物3.5％，黑莓果提取物0.6％，神经酰胺3 0.005％；乳化剂按质量百分比计包括鲸蜡基PEG/PPF-10/1聚二甲基硅氧烷1.5％、甘油辛酸酯0.2％、氯化钠0.6％；多元醇按质量百分比计包括甘油5％、1,3-丙二醇3.0％、1,2-己二醇0.4％；抗氧化剂按质量百分比计包括对羟基苯乙酮0.15％；精油按质量百分比计包括韩国YUJA精油0.05％；余量为水。
上述多功能轻盈水润不添加香精防腐剂的精华霜的制备方法，包含以下步骤：
(1)将羟乙基脲、海藻糖、β-葡聚糖、果聚糖、酵母菌发酵产物滤液、马齿苋提取物、柚提取物、墨角藻提取物、绞股蓝叶提取物、黑莓果提取物、多元醇、抗氧化剂加入部分去离子水中，加热至40～50℃，得到水相，并抽入乳化锅中；
(2)将乳化剂、角鲨烷、霍霍巴籽油、环聚二甲基硅氧烷、聚二甲基硅氧烷、精油、神经酰胺3加热至30～40℃，得到油相，并抽入乳化锅中；
(3)在乳化锅中保持40℃以上温度真空均质10分钟；
(4)均质结束后出料、静置、检验、包装、罐装，即制得不含香精防腐剂的精华霜。
实施例2～6
表1为实施例2～6中部分原料的含量表，实施例2～6中乳化剂、多元醇、抗氧化剂、精油的组分与含量均与实施例1相同，故在此不再一一列举。
表1实施例2至实施例6部分原料含量表
| 原料名称 | 实施例2 | 实施例3 | 实施例4 | 实施例5 | 实施例6 |
| 羟乙基脲 | 1.0 | 1.5 | 2.0 | 3.0 | 5 |
| 海藻糖 | 1.0 | 0.5 | 2.0 | 1.5 | 2 |
| β-葡聚糖 | 0.01 | 0.01 | 0.02 | 0.02 | 0.02 |
| 果聚糖 | 0.5 | 0.8 | 1.0 | 1.5 | 1.5 |
| 角鲨烷 | 0.5 | 0.8 | 0.7 | 1.0 | 1.0 |
| 霍霍巴籽油 | 0.1 | 0.3 | 0.5 | 0.6 | 1.0 |
| 环聚二甲基硅氧烷 | 2.5 | 3.0 | 3.0 | 2.8 | 3.0 |
| 聚二甲基硅氧烷 | 3.6 | 3.9 | 3.5 | 3.3 | 4.0 |
| 马齿苋提取物 | 2.0 | 2.2 | 2.5 | 1.5 | 2.5 |
| 柚提取物 | 1.0 | 1.5 | 1.5 | 2.0 | 2.0 |
| 墨角藻提取物 | 0.5 | 0.5 | 0.5 | 0.5 | 0.5 |
| 绞股蓝叶提取物 | 3.5 | 3.5 | 3.5 | 3.5 | 3.5 |
| 黑莓果提取物 | 0.6 | 0.65 | 0.7 | 0.9 | 1.0 |
| 神经酰胺3 | 0.008 | 0.009 | 0.01 | 0.015 | 0.02 |
| 酵母菌发酵产物滤液 | 10 | 11 | 12 | 15 | 15 |
实施例2～6的不添加香精防腐剂的精华霜的制备方法与实施例1的相同。
上述实施例的精华霜，完全符合国家颁布的《化妆品安全技术规范》(2014版)中的各项指标，该组合物不含有任何有毒物质。
选择140名测试者(男女均等，年龄段15岁-55岁)，分成7组，对实施例1～6和对比例(市售某知名品牌同类产品)进行盲测，测试方法为：用清水洁面后，全脸涂抹，每天早晚各涂抹一次，每次涂抹1克，连续使用28天，通过用户反馈、VISA面部图像分析仪和CK皮肤测试仪测试，得出安全性、皮肤弹性、保湿度、皱纹减少比例等数据。
表2为实施例1～6和对比例的使用数据统计表。
从表2可知，本发明的实施例1至实施例6的产品对皮肤的弹性、保湿度和皱纹的减少比率的提升均比某知名品牌同类产品优秀，并且由于未添加香精和防腐剂等，不存在使用者过敏的现象。
以上所述仅为本发明的较佳实施方式，本发明并不局限于上述实施方式，在实施过程中可能存在局部微小的结构改动，如果对本发明的各种改动或变型不脱离本发明的精神和范围，且属于本发明的权利要求和等同技术范围之内，则本发明也意图包含这些改动和变型。
Claims (10)
1.一种不添加香精防腐剂的精华霜，其特征在于，按质量百分比计由以下组分组成：羟乙基脲1～5％，海藻糖0.5～2％，β-葡聚糖0.01～0.02％，果聚糖0.5～1.5％，角鲨烷0.1～1.0％，霍霍巴籽油0.1～1.0％，环聚二甲基硅氧烷2.0～3.0％，聚二甲基硅氧烷3.0～4.0％，酵母菌发酵产物滤液10～15％，马齿苋提取物1.0～2.5％，柚提取物1.0～2.0％，墨角藻提取物0.5％，绞股蓝叶提取物3.5％，黑莓果提取物0.6～1.0％，神经酰胺3 0.005～0.02％，辅助组分10％～12％，余量为水。
2.根据权利要求1所述的一种不添加香精防腐剂的精华霜，其特征在于，按质量百分比计由以下组分组成：羟乙基脲3％，海藻糖1.5％，β-葡聚糖0.02％，果聚糖1.5％，角鲨烷1.0％，霍霍巴籽油0.6％，环聚二甲基硅氧烷2.8％，聚二甲基硅氧烷3.3％，酵母菌发酵产物滤液15％，马齿苋提取物1.5％，柚提取物2.0％，墨角藻提取物0.5％，绞股蓝叶提取物3.5％，黑莓果提取物0.9％，神经酰胺3 0.015％，辅助组分10.9％，余量为水。
3.根据权利要求1或2所述的一种不添加香精防腐剂的精华霜，其特征在于，所述辅助组分中不包含香精和防腐剂。
4.根据权利要求1或2所述的一种不添加香精防腐剂的精华霜，其特征在于，所述辅助组分包含乳化剂、多元醇、抗氧化剂、精油。
5.根据权利要求4所述的一种不添加香精防腐剂的精华霜，其特征在于，所述乳化剂为鲸蜡基PEG/PPF-10/1聚二甲基硅氧烷、PEG-30二聚羟基硬脂酸酯、PEG-10聚二甲基硅氧烷、甘油辛酸酯、氯化钠其中至少一种。
6.根据权利要求4所述的一种不添加香精防腐剂的精华霜，其特征在于，所述多元醇为甘油、丁二醇、1,3-丙二醇、1,2-己二醇、山梨醇其中至少一种。
7.根据权利要求4所述的一种不添加香精防腐剂的精华霜，其特征在于，所述抗氧化剂为对羟基苯乙酮、BHT、维生素E其中至少一种。
8.根据权利要求4所述的一种不添加香精防腐剂的精华霜，其特征在于，所述辅助组分精油为玫瑰精油、薰衣草精油其中至少一种。
9.一种如权利要求1、2、5～8中任一项所述的不添加香精防腐剂的精华霜的制备方法，其特征在于，包含以下步骤：
(1)将羟乙基脲、海藻糖、β-葡聚糖、果聚糖、酵母菌发酵产物滤液、马齿苋提取物、柚提取物、墨角藻提取物、绞股蓝叶提取物、黑莓果提取物、多元醇、抗氧化剂加入部分去离子水中，加热至40～50℃，得到水相，并抽入乳化锅中；
(2)将乳化剂、角鲨烷、霍霍巴籽油、环聚二甲基硅氧烷、聚二甲基硅氧烷、精油、神经酰胺3加热至30～40℃，得到油相，并抽入乳化锅中；
(3)在乳化锅中保持40℃以上温度真空均质10分钟；
(4)均质结束后出料、静置、检验、包装、罐装，即制得不含香精防腐剂的精华霜。
10.根据权利要求9所述的一种不添加香精防腐剂的精华霜，其特征在于，所述乳化剂按质量百分比计包括鲸蜡基PEG/PPF-10/1聚二甲基硅氧烷1.5％、甘油辛酸酯0.2％、氯化钠0.6％；所述多元醇按质量百分比计包括甘油5％、1,3-丙二醇3.0％、1,2-己二醇0.4％；所述抗氧化剂按质量百分比计包括对羟基苯乙酮0.15％。
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