CN108024932A - For nursing the water-in-oil emulsion of keratin material - Google Patents

For nursing the water-in-oil emulsion of keratin material Download PDF

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Publication number
CN108024932A
CN108024932A CN201580083533.3A CN201580083533A CN108024932A CN 108024932 A CN108024932 A CN 108024932A CN 201580083533 A CN201580083533 A CN 201580083533A CN 108024932 A CN108024932 A CN 108024932A
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weight
range
integer
composition
group
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王红娟
胡娟
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LOreal SA
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LOreal SA
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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/0241—Containing particulates characterized by their shape and/or structure
    • A61K8/0254—Platelets; Flakes
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/06—Emulsions
    • A61K8/064—Water-in-oil emulsions, e.g. Water-in-silicone emulsions
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/26—Aluminium; Compounds thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/41—Amines
    • A61K8/416—Quaternary ammonium compounds
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/58—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing atoms other than carbon, hydrogen, halogen, oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur or phosphorus
    • A61K8/585—Organosilicon compounds
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/8194—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, at least one having two or more carbon-to-carbon double bonds; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
    • A61K8/891—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone
    • A61K8/893—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone modified by an alkoxy or aryloxy group, e.g. behenoxy dimethicone or stearoxy dimethicone
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/59—Mixtures
    • A61K2800/592—Mixtures of compounds complementing their respective functions
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/60—Particulates further characterized by their structure or composition
    • A61K2800/61—Surface treated
    • A61K2800/612—By organic compounds

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  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Public Health (AREA)
  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Epidemiology (AREA)
  • Birds (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Inorganic Chemistry (AREA)
  • Dermatology (AREA)
  • Oil, Petroleum & Natural Gas (AREA)
  • Dispersion Chemistry (AREA)
  • Emergency Medicine (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)

Abstract

A kind of composition of water-in-oil emulsion form includes first surface activating agent of at least one HLB value less than or equal to 6, at least one second surface activating agent, it is different from the first surface activating agent and can be quaternary cationics, at least one lipophilic gelling agents and at least one oil.

Description

For nursing the water-in-oil emulsion of keratin material
Invention field
The present invention relates to the composition for nursing keratin material.More particularly, it relates to water-in-oil emulsion shape The composition of formula, it includes the group of lipophilic gelling agents, oil and specific surfactant with required viscosity and stability Close.
Background of invention
In cosmetic field, lotion, especially water-in-oil emulsion are due to its pleasant quality (such as length on the skin Effect moisturizing and conditioning are felt) and it is subject to consumer to like.It is known to use with relatively low HLB value (e.g., less than or equal to 6) Surfactant has the water-in-oil emulsion of the pleasant sensation herewith described to prepare.
Additionally, it is known that nonionic surfactant is as skin conditioning agent, and it is widely used in lotion (such as water in oil emulsion Liquid) form cosmetic composition in.
However, such lotion as described above is not always satisfactory.In order to obtain it is enough through when stablize Property, such as store 2 months at different temperatures, usually these lotions are prepared in the form of being thickened creams.The thickened texture makes Lotion is obtained in storage afterwards to stablize within 2 months.However, due to its thick and heavy and uncomfortable sensation on the skin, it is from disappearing Expense person likes.
Easily apply and uniformly sprawl on the skin in addition, consumer always pursues, while not from skin during application Upper cunning oozes the cosmetics of (run off).
However, conventional water-in-oil emulsion cannot provide required use quality due to its thickened texture.
Make an effort to prepare the composition with opposite low viscosity, such as washing lotion, so as to after being applied Salubrious and aquation sensation, and easily use.
However, the viscosity by reducing the cosmetics containing above-mentioned surfactant, it was observed that composition is unstable.
Accordingly, there exist the needs of the composition for developing the stabilization for being used to nurse keratin material, said composition has Required viscosity, it can be obtained for the enough conditioning levels of skin, and salubrious and aquation at the same time, i.e., on the skin without thick and heavy Or greasy feeling.
Also there are the needs for the composition for nursing keratin material, said composition has required use matter Amount, i.e. easily uniformly sprawl on keratin material, oozed without cunning.
The content of the invention
Above-mentioned needs can realize that said composition includes lipophilic gelling agents, oil by the composition of oil-in-water emulsion form And the combination of surfactant.Therefore, the present invention relates to the composition of water-in-oil emulsion form, it includes：
A) at least one first surface activating agent, it is according to lattice Lifei
Implication has the HLB value less than or equal to 6；
B) at least one second surface activating agent, it is different from first surface activating agent a), and the second surface activating agent is formula (III) cationic surfactant,
Wherein：
Group R8To R11It may be the same or different, represent the straight or branched aliphatic group containing 1 to 30 carbon atom, or aromatic group Group, such as aryl or alkylaryl, and the aliphatic group optionally includes hetero atom,
X-It is anion；
C) at least one lipophilic gelling agents；With
D) at least one oil.
For purposes of the present invention, term " keratin material " represents (body, face and eye circumference) skin, nail, mouth Lip or mucous membrane.More particularly, it is intended to represent skin.
By " salubrious and aquation ", we are intended to represent more water, the sensation of aquation, itself and thick, thick and heavy and satiny sense Feel on the contrary, being presented by the viscosity of composition.
By " use quality ", we are intended to represent that the composition of the present invention is easily uniformly sprawled on keratin material, Oozed without cunning.It is presented by the viscosity of composition.
The viscosity of the present composition can be measured via any method well known by persons skilled in the art, and in particular according to Lower conventional method measurement.
The viscosity of composition according to the present invention under 25 °C, using from Prorheo companies equipped with 200 rpm The ProRheo R180 viscosimeters of rotating rotor M2 measure, and its value is usually that (offset is single by 20 UD to 80 UD Position).
By " stability ", we are intended to represent the composition of the present invention under 4 to 45 °C and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) Storage 2 months simultaneously store 10 days under circulation when small (- 20 to 20 °C/24) and does not show appearance, color, smell or viscosity afterwards Change.
By " greater skin conditioning efficacy ", we are intended to the sensation that expression applies skin after the present invention, such as smooth and wet The sensation of profit.
Detailed description of the invention
Surfactant a)
Composition according to the present invention includes at least one surfactant, it has small under 25 °C in lattice Lifei's implication In or equal to 6 HLB equilibrium valves (hydrophile-lipophile balance value).
Lattice Lifei's HLB value is defined in J. Soc. Cosm. Chem. 1954 (volume 5), in the 249-256 pages.
Refer to Kirk-Othmer Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology, volume 22,333- Page 432, the 3rd edition, the 347- of 1979, the Wiley definition on the property and function of surfactant, the particularly reference Page 377.
Preferably, at least one surfactant is selected from：
- alkylamide fatty acid ester, such as methyl glucose dioleate；
- fatty acid glyceride, such as iso stearic acid of glycerine ester, olein and glycerol ricinoleate, and preferably glycerine three Ester, such as glycerol tristearate (tristearin), such as acetylation ethylene glycol stearate and glycerol tristearate are mixed Compound, is sold by United Guardian companies with title Unitwix；
- Span, such as anhydrous sorbitol tristearate and anhydrous sorbitol dioleate or trioleate；
- silicone emulsifier, such as the poly- alkyl, polyether siloxanes for the polyalkylene oxide groups being grafted in silicone backbone is carried, its The middle poly- alkyl, polyether siloxanes by the polyalkylene oxide groups being grafted to preferably using carrying in silicone backbone；
And its mixture.
In silicone emulsifier, the polydiorganosiloxanepolyurea selected from lower formula (I) and (II) those will be more particularly used, These compounds are possible to be dispersed in volatile polydimethylsiloxaneand in itself,
Wherein：
R1Represent group-CnH2n-(-OC2H4-)x-(-OC3H6-)y-O-R3,
R2Represent straight or branched C12-C20Group,
R3Represent hydrogen atom or include the straight or branched alkyl of 1 to 12 carbon atom,
A represents the integer in the range of 0 to 500,
B is the integer in the range of 0 to 500,
C represents the integer in the range of 1 to 500,
N is the integer in the range of 2 to 12；
X and y represents the integer in the range of 0 to 50 respectively,
X be+y's and more than or equal to value 1.
In preferable silicone emulsifier, those of formula (I) are can be mentioned that,
Wherein：
A is the integer in the range of 2 to 450,
B is equal to 0,
C is the integer in the range of 2 to 40,
N is the integer in the range of 2 to 5,
X is the integer in the range of 1 to 30,
Y is the integer in the range of 0 to 30, wherein x >=y.
In these silicone emulsifiers, can more particularly it be total to using X 2-1401 and dimethyl silicone polymer The mixture of polyalcohols (CTFA titles), such as sold by Dow Corning companies with 3225 C of trade name Silicone DC Product, or by Goldschmidt companies with title Abil EM 97®The product of sale.
In preferable silicone emulsifier, those of formula (I) are also can be mentioned that, wherein：
R1Represent group-CnH2n-(-OC2H4-)x-(-OC3H6-)y- O-H,
R2Represent straight or branched C12-C18Group,
A represents the integer in the range of 0 to 100,
B is the integer in the range of 1 to 40,
C represents the integer in the range of 10 to 200,
N is the integer in the range of 2 to 4,
X and y represents the integer in the range of 0 to 50 respectively,
X be+y's and more than or equal to value 1.
Even more particularly, in formula (1), wherein：
A represents the integer in the range of 0 to 30,
B is the integer in the range of 1 to 10,
C is the integer in the range of 10 to 100,
R2Represent straight or branched C16Group,
N is integer 3,
X is 10, and y is 1.
It can be mentioned that Abil EM 90, such as cetyl dimethicone and poly dimethyl silicon The copolyol of the alkoxy derivative of oxygen alkane, more preferably such as cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 dimethyl silicone polymers, such as By Goldschmidt companies with title Abil®WE09 or Abil®The product of EM-90 sale.
According to an embodiment, surfactant a) with relative to composition total weight 0.1 weight % to 10 weight %, It is preferred that the content in the range of 1 weight % to 5 weight % is present in composition according to the present invention.
Surfactant b)
Composition according to the present invention includes the second surface activating agent of the cationic surfactant of at least one formula (III) B), it is different from surfactant a),
Wherein：
Group R8To R11It may be the same or different, represent the straight or branched aliphatic group containing 1 to 30 carbon atom, or aromatic group Group, such as aryl or alkylaryl, and the aliphatic group optionally includes hetero atom,
X-It is anion.
The aliphatic group is selected from C1-C30Alkyl, C1-C30Alkoxy, (C2-C6) polyoxyalkylenes, C1-C30Alkyl Amide groups, (C12-C22) alkyl (C2-C6) alkylamidoalkyl, (C12-C22) acetate alkyl ester group and C1-C30Hydroxyalkyl.
Preferably, in formula (III)：
Group R8To R11In it is at least one be the straight or branched aliphatic group containing 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and the aliphatic series Group optionally includes hetero atom, such as particularly oxygen, nitrogen, sulphur or halogen；With
X-It is anion, it may be selected from halogen ion, phosphate radical, acetate, lactate, (C1-C4) alkyl sulfate, (C1-C4) alkane Base sulfonate radical and (C1-C4) alkyl aryl sulphonic acid root.
It is highly preferred that in formula (III)：
Group R8To R11In it is at least one be to be selected from C12-C24The aliphatic group of alkylamidoalkyl, other is C1-C4Alkyl；With
X-It is the anion selected from halogen ion.
It can be mentioned that quaternary alkylammonium halides, preferably tetra-alkyl ammonium chloride, such as dialkyl dimethyl ammonium chloride or alkyl front three Ammonium chloride, wherein the alkyl includes 12 to 22 carbon atoms, is particularly the mountain is based on trimethylammonium chloride, distearyl diformazan Ammonium chloride, cetyl trimethyl ammonium chloride and benzyl dimethoylstearyl ammonium chloride.
It also can be mentioned that palmityl amidopropyl trimethyl-ammonium halide, preferably palmityl amidopropyl trimethyl ammonia chloride Ammonium, such as the product sold by Evonik Goldschmidt companies with title VARISOFT PATC, or stearoyl aminocarbonyl propyl Dimethyl (myristyl acetate)-ammonium halide, preferably bisisostearamidopropyldimonium (myristyl acetate)-chlorination Ammonium, such as by VAN DYK companies with title CERAPHYL®The product of 70 sale.
According to an embodiment, the surfactant b) with relative to composition total weight in 0.01 weight % to 10 Weight %, preferably 0.05 weight % are present according to this to 5 weight % and even more preferably from the content in the range of 0.1 weight % to 2 weight % In the composition of invention.
Lipophilic gelling agents
Composition according to the present invention includes at least one lipophilic gelling agents (or thickener).
The gelling agent can be in particular selected from：Hydrophobic silica, such as those being described in document EP-A-898 960, And such as by Degussa companies with label Aerosil R812®Sale, by Cabot companies with label Cab-O-Sil TS- 530®、Cab-O-Sil TS-610®With Cab-O-Sil TS-720®Sale, and by Degussa companies with label Aerosil R972®With Aerosil R974®Sale；Organophilic clay, such as montmorillonite, modified clay, such as bentonite (bentones), department draws oronain hectorite (stearalkonium hectorite) or department to draw oronain bentonite (stearalkonium bentonite), and polyose alkylether, especially wherein alkyl contains C1To C24, preferably C1To C10、 Also better C1To C6And more particularly C1To C3Those of carbon atom, such as those being described in document EP-A-898 958.
Organophilic clay is to use to be selected from following compound modified clay：Quaternary amine, tertiary amine, amine acetate (amine acetates), imidazoline, amine soap, fat sulphate, alkylaryl sulfonates and amine oxide and its mixture.
The organophilic clay that can be mentioned that includes the bentonite of quaternary ammonium salt -18, such as by Elementis companies with title Bentone 3, Bentone 38 and Bentone 38V, by United Catalyst companies with title Tixogel VP and by Southern Clay companies sold with title Claytone 34, Claytone 40 and Claytone XL those；Chlorine draws in department Ammonium hectorite, for example, by Elementis companies with title Bentone 27V, by United Catalyst companies with title Tixogel LG and those sold by Southern Clay companies with title Claytone AF and Claytone APA；Season The benzalkonium chloride of ammonium salt -18/ bentonite (benzalkonium bentonite), such as by Southern Clay companies with title Those of Claytone HT and Claytone PS sale.
The organophilic clay is in particular selected from modified hectorite, such as the hectorite being modified with department's drawing oronain.
According to an embodiment, the lipophilic gelling agents with relative to composition total weight in 0.01 weight % to 5 weights Content in the range of amount %, preferably 0.1 weight % to 2 weight % is present in composition according to the present invention.
Water phase
The composition of the present invention includes scattered water phase.
The water is mutually aqueous.The amount of water is unrestricted, and can be 5 weight % to 90 weights relative to composition total weight Measure %, preferably 10 weight % to 80 weight % and more preferably 15 weight % to 70 weight %.
The water mutually can be further containing at least one organic solvent, preferably miscible organic solvents.As organic molten Agent, can be mentioned that such as C1-C4Alkanol, such as ethanol and isopropanol；Aromatic alcohol, such as benzylalcohol and Phenoxyethanol；Its similar product； And its mixture.
The amount of organic water-miscible solvent relative to the gross weight of composition may be less than 20 weight %, preferably 10 weight % or Less.
Fatty phase
Composition according to the present invention includes continuous fatty phase.
Especially, fat of the invention is mutually comprising at least one oil.
Term " oil " is represented under room temperature (20-25 °C) and atmospheric pressure as any fatty material of liquid form.
The composition of the present invention can be with 5 weight % to 90 weight %, particularly 10 weight % to 80 relative to composition total weight Weight %, the content particularly in the range of 15 weight % to 70 weight % include liquid aliphatic phase.
The oil can be volatility or non-volatile.
Term " nonvolatile oil " represents to be retained in keratin material under room temperature (20-25 °C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) Expect the oil on (especially skin and lip).More specifically, nonvolatile oil has strictly less than 0.01 mg/cm2The steaming of/min Send out speed.
In order to measure the evaporation rate, oil or oil mixture to be tested 15 g are placed in the crystallising dish of 7 cm of diameter, By the crystallising dish be placed in temperature adjustment be 25 °C temperature and psychrometric method be adjusted to 50% relative humidity about 0.3 m3's On balance in big room.Liquid is set freely to evaporate, without stirring it, while by fan (Papst-Motoren, label 8550 N, is rotated with 2700 rpm) ventilation is provided, which is placed in above the crystallising dish containing described oily or described oil mixture and is hung down At straight position, blade is directed toward crystallising dish, remote away from 20 cm of crystallising dish bottom.Crystallising dish is retained in by certain time interval measurement In it is described oil or oil mixture quality.With per unit area (cm2) and time per unit (minute) evaporation oily mg numbers Represent evaporation rate.
Term " ethereal oil " is represented under room temperature (20-25 °C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg), (outstanding with keratin material It is skin and lip) contact when can when small less than 1 interior evaporation any non-aqueous media.The ethereal oil is cosmetics Ethereal oil, it is liquid at room temperature.More specifically, ethereal oil has 0.01 and 200 mg/cm2Between/min (including Limit value) evaporation rate.
The oil based on hydrocarbon, silicone oil, fluorocarbon oil or non-fluorocarbon oil can be included by being suitable for preparing the oil of composition according to the present invention, Or its mixture.
Term " oil based on hydrocarbon " represents to mainly contain the oil of hydrogen and carbon atom.
Term " silicone oil " represents to include at least one silicon atom, and the oil of especially at least one Si-O group.
Term " fluorocarbon oil " represents the oil for including at least one fluorine atom.
Preferably, composition of the invention also includes at least one oil based on hydrocarbon, silicone oil or its mixture.
As the oil based on hydrocarbon, can be mentioned that：
The oil based on hydrocarbon of animal origin, the oil based on hydrocarbon of plant origin,
The straight or branched hydrocarbon of mineral or synthesis source,
Synthesis ether containing 10 to 40 carbon atoms；
Synthetic ester,
It is the fatty alcohol of liquid at room temperature, it has side chain and/or the carbon-based chain of unsaturation containing 12 to 26 carbon atoms,
C12-C22Higher fatty acids, and
Its mixture.
It can be mentioned that the oil based on hydrocarbon, such as liquid paraffin and its derivant, vaseline, poly decene, polybutene, hydrogenation are poly- different Butylene, such as Parleam, and saualane, for example, it is obtainable with trade mark Pripure 3759-LQ- (GD) by Croda sale Squalane, straight or branched C4-C12Fatty alcohol and straight or branched C4-C12The synthetic ester of aliphatic acid, such as the different nonyl of isononanoic acid Base ester, it is sold by Erca with trade name Ercarel ISN/O, or the Wickenol 151 sold by Alzo companies.
The oil can optionally include oxygen, nitrogen, sulphur and/or phosphorus atoms, such as in the form of hydroxyl or acidic group.
As silicone oil, can be mentioned that：
- straight chain or cyclic materials oil, especially viscosity is less than or equal to 8 centistokes(cst)s (cSt) (8 × 10-6 m2/ s) those, And especially containing 2 to 10 silicon atoms and particularly 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicone, which optionally include, has 1 to 10 carbon atom Alkyl or alkoxy；
- straight chain or ring-type non-volatile dimethicones (PDMS)；Poly dimethyl silicon comprising alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl Oxygen alkane, side chain or end of the group in silicone chains, these groups contain 2 to 24 carbon atoms；
- phenyl silicones, such as phenyl trimethicone, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethicone siloxy Diphenyl siloxane, diphenyl dimethicone, diphenyl methyl diphenyl trisiloxanes and 2- phenethyl trimethyl first Siloxy esters of silicon acis,
- and its mixture
In a special embodiment, six siloxanes of ring can be mentioned that, its trade mark example that can be sold by Shin Etsu companies Such as KF-996 acquisitions, or the trade mark Xiameter that can be sold by Dow Corning companies®PMX-0246 is obtained, or poly- two Methylsiloxane, its trade mark Xiameter that can be sold by Dow Corning companies® PMX-200 silicone fluids 5cs, Xiameter® PMX-200 silicone fluids 350cs or Xiameter® PMX-200 silicone fluids 10cs is obtained.
Preferably, the composition can include the gross weight relative to composition with 1 weight % to 80 weight %, preferably 10 weights Measure the oil that the content in the range of % to 70 weight % and more preferably 15 weight % to 60 weight % is present in said composition.
Adjuvant
Adopt in a known manner, composition of the invention is also containing adjuvant common in cosmetics and/or dermatology, example Such as preservative, antioxidant, complexing agent, pH adjusting agent (acid or alkalescence), aromatic, filler, fungicide, odor absorber or coloring Agent (pigment and dyestuff).
Needless to say, those skilled in the art can carefully choose this or these optional extra compounds and/or its amount, So that the property of composition or will not will not be subject to adversely affecting for contemplated additive substantially according to the present invention.
Galenic form
Composition according to the present invention can be in lotion form, which has required viscosity, this make it possible to obtain it is salubrious with The sensation of aquation, and improved use quality, i.e. easily uniformly sprawl on keratin material, oozed without cunning.
Preferably, according to the present invention, the composition has 20 UD to 80 UD (M2), preferably 20 UD to 70 UD (M2), the viscosity of more preferably 40 UD to 70 UD (M2).The measurement of viscosity is as disclosed above.
Preferably, composition of the invention is the wash type (rinse-off) or leave (leave-in) of nursing skin Composition forms, and it is more preferably used for the leave-on composition of nursing skin.
Composition according to the present invention can be packaged in any suitable distributor (e.g., such as tank, pipe, pump distribution bottle) Or in aerosol apparatus, particularly in pump distribution bottle.
The invention further relates to the non-therapeutic method for nursing keratin material, is characterized in that it is included to keratin material The surface of material applies at least one composition as defined above.
The present invention relates to the method for nursing keratin material (particularly skin), it is characterized in that it is included to keratin The surface of material applies at least one composition as defined above.
After the optional residence time, the composition can be removed by rinsing.
Preferably, composition according to the present invention is made to stay on the skin, that is to say, that without punching after its application Wash.
It is used for the purposes for nursing keratin material and particularly skin present invention finally relates to composition as described above.
In the present patent application, unless in addition clearly referring to, otherwise the content is based on the gross weight relative to composition Weight represent.
Examples below is intended to illustrate composition according to the present invention and method, but does not limit this hair in any way Bright scope.
Unless otherwise mentioned, otherwise parts and percentages all in embodiment are based on weight and provide, and all Measurement result obtains under about 25 °C.
Embodiment
Formulation (formula) 1 and 2 and invention formulation 1 are compared in preparation：
Compare formulation 1 and 2 and include the surfactant for being different from second surface activating agent b) according to the present invention.
Formulation listed above is prepared according to following steps：
Isononanoic acid isononyl ester and Si La oronains hectorite are mixed under 80 °C, until uniformly；
The component of phase A is added in mixture achieved above under 25 °C, until uniformly；
Mixed phase B is until uniformly；
Phase B is added in phase A, and is mixed to uniform；
Phase C, D and E are added in mixture achieved above.
Evaluation invention formulation and compare the stability of formulation, viscosity, greater skin conditioning efficacy, on the skin salubrious and The sensation of aquation, and use quality.
Stability test and viscosity are evaluated according to scheme mentioned above.
Invention formulation is evaluated according to following steps and compares the use of formulation, greater skin conditioning efficacy and on the skin The salubrious and sensation of aquation：
By invention formulation 1 and compare formulation 1 and 2 and be applied on the skin of 6 women, and then with finger carry out by Rub.Then scoring is provided by 6 women.
5：Performance is very good；
4：It is functional；
3：Performance is subjected to；
2：Poor performance；
1：Performance is excessively poor.
The results are as follows：
The results show that invention formulation 1 is stable, and it is unstable at certain temperatures to compare formulation 1 and 2.
In addition, invention formulation 1 has excellent use quality, greater skin conditioning efficacy and salubrious on the skin and aquation Sensation, there is required viscosity, and compare formulation 1 and 2 on skin is applied to after show difference salubrious and hydrability Matter.

Claims (13)

1. the composition of water-in-oil emulsion form, it includes：
A) at least one first surface activating agent, it has the HLB value less than or equal to 6 according to lattice Lifei implication；
B) at least one second surface activating agent, it is different from the first surface activating agent a), the second surface activating agent For the cationic surfactant of formula (III),
Wherein：
Group R8To R11It may be the same or different, represent the straight or branched aliphatic group containing 1 to 30 carbon atom, or aromatic group Group, such as aryl or alkylaryl, and the aliphatic group optionally includes hetero atom,
X-It is anion,
C) at least one lipophilic gelling agents；With
D) at least one oil.
2. composition according to claim 1, it is 20 UD to 80 UD, preferably 20 UD to 70 that it, which has using rotor M2, The viscosity of UD, more preferably 40 UD to 70 UD.
3. composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the first surface activating agent a) is selected from glucose aliphatic acid Ester, fatty acid glyceride, Span, silicone emulsifier and its mixture；It is preferably selected from formula (I) or the silicone of (II) Emulsifying agent：
Wherein：
R1Represent group-CnH2n-(-OC2H4-)x-(-OC3H6-)y-O-R3,
R2Represent straight or branched C12-C20Group,
R3Represent hydrogen atom or include the straight or branched alkyl of 1 to 12 carbon atom,
A represents the integer in the range of 0 to 500,
B is the integer in the range of 0 to 500,
C represents the integer in the range of 1 to 500,
N is the integer in the range of 2 to 12；
X and y represents the integer in the range of 0 to 50 respectively,
X be+y's and more than or equal to value 1；
More preferably in formula (I)：
R1Represent group-CnH2n-(-OC2H4-)x-(-OC3H6-)y- O-H,
R2Represent straight or branched C12-C18Group,
A represents the integer in the range of 0 to 100,
B is the integer in the range of 1 to 40,
C represents the integer in the range of 10 to 200,
N is the integer in the range of 2 to 4；
More preferably in formula (I)：
A represents the integer in the range of 0 to 30,
B is the integer in the range of 1 to 10,
C is the integer in the range of 10 to 100,
R2Represent straight or branched C16Group,
N is integer 3,
X is 10, and y is 1.
4. the composition according to any one of preceding claims 1 to 3, wherein the first surface activating agent a) is with opposite Exist in amount of the gross weight in the range of 0.1 weight % to 10 weight %, preferably 1 weight % to 5 weight % of the composition.
5. the composition according to any one of preceding claims 1 to 4, wherein the second surface activating agent b) is selected from formula (III),
Wherein：
Group R8To R11In it is at least one be the straight or branched aliphatic group containing 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and the aliphatic series Group optionally includes hetero atom, and
X-It is anion, it is selected from halogen ion, phosphate radical, acetate, lactate, (C1-C4) alkyl sulfate, (C1-C4) alkyl Sulfonate radical and (C1-C4) alkyl aryl sulphonic acid root；
It is preferred that in formula (III)：
Group R8To R11In it is at least one be to be selected from C12-C24The aliphatic group of alkylamidoalkyl, other is C1-C4Alkyl；With
X-It is the anion selected from halogen ion.
6. the composition according to any one of preceding claims 1 to 5, wherein the second surface activating agent b) is with opposite In the composition gross weight in 0.01 weight % to 10 weight %, preferably 0.05 weight % to 5 weight % and even more preferably from 0.1 weight The amount in the range of % to 2 weight % is measured to exist.
7. the composition according to any one of preceding claims 1 to 6, wherein the lipophilic gelling agents are selected from hydrophobicity Silica, organophilic clay, be modified clay, contain C1-C24The polyose alkylether of alkyl or its mixture；It is preferred that institute State lipophilic gelling agents and be selected from organophilic clay, comprising the bentonite of quaternary ammonium salt -18, department draw oronain hectorite, quaternary ammonium salt - 18/ benzalkonium chloride bentonite or its mixture；Modified hectorite is more preferably selected from, the water brightness of oronain modification is particularly drawn with department Stone.
8. the composition according to any one of preceding claims 1 to 7, wherein the lipophilic gelling agents are with relative to institute Amount of the gross weight of composition in the range of 0.01 weight % to 5 weight %, preferably 0.1 weight % to 2 weight % is stated to exist.
9. the composition according to any one of preceding claims 1 to 8, it also comprising at least one oil, is preferably selected from base In the oil of hydrocarbon, silicone oil or its mixture；It is more preferably selected from synthetic ester, liquid paraffin and its derivant, vaseline, poly decene, poly- Butylene, Parleam, six siloxanes of ring or its mixture；It is more preferably selected from Parleam, six siloxanes of ring, different nonyl Sour isononyl ester or its mixture.
10. the composition according to any one of preceding claims 1 to 9, wherein in the presence of the oil, its with relative to The gross weight of the composition is in 1 weight % to 80 weight %, preferably 10 weight % to 70 weight % and more preferably 15 weight % to 60 weights The amount in the range of % is measured to exist.
11. a kind of composition of water-in-oil emulsion form, it includes：
A) the first surface activity at least one formula (I) for being 1 weight % to 5 weight % relative to the gross weight of the composition Agent, it has the HLB value less than or equal to 6 according to lattice Lifei implication：
Wherein：
R1Represent group-CnH2n-(-OC2H4-)x-(-OC3H6-)y- O-H,
R2Represent straight or branched C12-C18Group,
A represents the integer in the range of 0 to 100,
B is the integer in the range of 1 to 40,
C represents the integer in the range of 10 to 200,
N is the integer in the range of 2 to 4,
X and y represents the integer in the range of 0 to 50 respectively,
X be+y's and more than or equal to value 1；
B) at least one second surface activating agent for being 0.05 weight % to 5 weight % relative to the gross weight of the composition, its Different from the first surface activating agent a), the second surface activating agent is the cationic surfactant of formula (III),
Wherein：
Group R8To R11In it is at least one be to be selected from C12-C24The aliphatic group of alkylamidoalkyl, other is C1-C4Alkyl, and
X-It is the anion selected from halogen ion；
C) relative to the composition gross weight for 0.1 weight % at least one lipophilic gelling agents of 2 weight %, it is selected from Organophilic clay；With
D) at least one oil.
A kind of 12. method for nursing keratin material, it is characterised in that it includes applying to the surface of the keratin material Add at least one composition according to any one of preceding claims 1 to 11.
13. it is used to nurse keratin material and particularly skin according to the composition of any one of preceding claims 1 to 11 Purposes.
CN201580083533.3A 2015-09-30 2015-09-30 For nursing the water-in-oil emulsion of keratin material Pending CN108024932A (en)

Applications Claiming Priority (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
PCT/CN2015/091258 WO2017054184A1 (en) 2015-09-30 2015-09-30 Water in oil emulsions for caring for keratin materials

Publications (1)

Publication Number Publication Date
CN108024932A true CN108024932A (en) 2018-05-11

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Citations (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US5015469A (en) * 1988-01-12 1991-05-14 Shideido Company Ltd. Water-in-oil emulsion type cosmetics
CN1196238A (en) * 1997-02-06 1998-10-21 莱雅公司 Water-in-oil emulsions based on two specific emulsifiers and cosmetic applications
CN1720896A (en) * 2004-07-16 2006-01-18 欧莱雅 Cosmetic composition comprising a defined polymeric silicone and a gelling agent
CN102858315A (en) * 2010-04-13 2013-01-02 株式会社资生堂 Water-in-oil emulsion composition

Patent Citations (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US5015469A (en) * 1988-01-12 1991-05-14 Shideido Company Ltd. Water-in-oil emulsion type cosmetics
CN1196238A (en) * 1997-02-06 1998-10-21 莱雅公司 Water-in-oil emulsions based on two specific emulsifiers and cosmetic applications
CN1720896A (en) * 2004-07-16 2006-01-18 欧莱雅 Cosmetic composition comprising a defined polymeric silicone and a gelling agent
CN102858315A (en) * 2010-04-13 2013-01-02 株式会社资生堂 Water-in-oil emulsion composition

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