CN107438425A - A kind of hair care and nourishing composition of the complexing agent containing moisturizing - Google Patents

A kind of hair care and nourishing composition of the complexing agent containing moisturizing Download PDF

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CN107438425A
CN107438425A CN201680004076.9A CN201680004076A CN107438425A CN 107438425 A CN107438425 A CN 107438425A CN 201680004076 A CN201680004076 A CN 201680004076A CN 107438425 A CN107438425 A CN 107438425A
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hair
weight
composition
acid
water
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CN107438425B (en
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赵文忠
陈顺章
林学镁
洪盛杰
谷志静
周起
董志扬
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LAF INTERNATIONAL GROUP Ltd
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73Polysaccharides
    • A61K8/735Mucopolysaccharides, e.g. hyaluronic acid; Derivatives thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
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    • A61K8/34Alcohols
    • A61K8/345Alcohols containing more than one hydroxy group
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    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
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    • A61K8/36Carboxylic acids; Salts or anhydrides thereof
    • A61K8/365Hydroxycarboxylic acids; Ketocarboxylic acids
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    • A61K8/41Amines
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    • A61K8/42Amides
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    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/44Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/44Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/447Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof containing sulfur
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
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    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/49Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
    • A61K8/4906Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with one nitrogen as the only hetero atom
    • A61K8/4913Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with one nitrogen as the only hetero atom having five membered rings, e.g. pyrrolidone carboxylic acid
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
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    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/60Sugars; Derivatives thereof
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    • A61K8/738Cyclodextrins
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    • A61K8/84Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89Polysiloxanes
    • A61K8/891Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone
    • A61K8/892Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone modified by a hydroxy group, e.g. dimethiconol
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    • A61K8/84Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89Polysiloxanes
    • A61K8/891Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone
    • A61K8/893Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone modified by an alkoxy or aryloxy group, e.g. behenoxy dimethicone or stearoxy dimethicone
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/12Preparations containing hair conditioners

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Abstract

A kind of hair care and nourishing composition of the complexing agent of moisturizing containing hair, in addition to preservative, essence, chelating agent, antioxidant and water, includes (percentage by weight):(A) cationic polymer 0.05% 0.5%;(B) cationic surfactant 0.5% 3%;(C) fatty alcohol 0.5% 10.0%;(D) hydroxyethyl cellulose 0.05% 1%;(E) hair moisturizing composite reactive agent 1.0% 20%.

Description

A kind of hair care and nourishing composition of the complexing agent containing moisturizing
Technical field
The invention belongs to household chemicals field, and in particular to a kind of Haircare composition containing efficient hair moisturizing composite reactive agent.
Background technology
All the time, hair conditioner uses as hair nursing conditioner and supporting shampoo, is widely loved by the people.With The quickening of hair products sectionalization paces, the new term and new usage of the various hair care categories of in the market also arise at the historic moment, such as from original Hair conditioner to the disposable hair film of hair, to hair reverse mould, to hair elite creams, shampoo treats element etc. to the end again, it is all these All it is the synonym of hair conditioner (abbreviation hair conditioner), otherness therein is embodied in application method, washes away or stops, and uses Program, using hair form and corresponding using effect such as hair conditioning etc., a common ground be all employ it is comparatively large number of Silicone oil and more or less cationic polymer is used.Therefore, it is all to take care of hair the predictable effect of product declared in the past just It is the submissive conditioning functions to wet hair and dry hair and the surface maintenance function to damaged hair.
It is highly developed specific to Haircare composition technology to be currently based on the hair care technology of silicone oil conditioning, and disclosure satisfy that Basic need of the consumer to hair conditioning.However, the maturation of so-called technology is relative, lag behind forever people's new demand with And the continuous progress of technology.Therefore, people are also focused on by hair while meeting that hair nurses one's health demand substantially by sight Nurse one's health hair nursing, by hair nursing to scalp and the maintenance of hair, the generations of these demands call new hair care technology and The appearance of theory.
According to conventional art, silicone oil, cation and grease are the key technology factors for forming hair products, innovation Thinking is, formula engineers by sight focus on skin care and hair care transboundary i.e., protected with the theory technology of skin care Hair, hair products except possess that hair is submissive and conditioning functions in addition to also to have moisture-keeping functions, permeability to hair and be directed to The inside and outside maintenance function of hair hair scale piece.
It is therefore an object of the present invention to a kind of hair care and nourishing composition is provided, using skin care technological means, one kind collaboration head The compound of skin and hair moisture-keeping function, collaboration reduce the excitant of surfactant, scalp and hair is obtained various dimensions and is protected The maintenance of the wet factor and the supplement of moisture content, improve the dry-out phenomenon of hair.Also overcome simultaneously and used silicone oil and cation in the past The defects of conditioner hair care technology.
The content of the invention
It is an object of the invention to provide a kind of hair care and nourishing composition with efficient moisture-retention function.
Hair care and nourishing composition of the present invention, it is characterised in that in addition to preservative, essence, chelating agent, antioxidant and water, bag Contain:
(A) cationic polymer of composition weight percentage 0.05% to 3% is accounted for;
(B) cationic surfactant of composition weight percentage 0.05% to 10% is accounted for;
(C) account for the fatty alcohol thickener of composition weight percentage 0.5% to 10.0% and account for composition weight percentage 0.1% to 3% nonionic cellulose polymer thickener, fatty alcohol thickener therein are cetostearyl alcohol (alcohol of carbon 16/18) With the mixture of docosyl alcohol (alcohol of carbon 22), and the alcohol of carbon 16/18:The alcohol of carbon 22 is with weight than 1:1 ratio mixing, non-ionic cellulose Polymer is hydroxyethyl cellulose;
(D) composition weight 1.0%-15% hair moisturizing composite reactive agent, the hair moisturizing composite reactive agent are accounted for It is composed of the following components;
Composite reactive agent weight 10-28% hexylene glycol is accounted for,
Composite reactive agent weight 10-20% carbohydrate admixture is accounted for, the carbohydrate admixture is by monose, oligosaccharide and polysaccharide Composition, and monose:Oligosaccharide:Polysaccharide is with weight than 5:2:1 ratio mixing;Monose is fructose and glucose, and fructose:Grape Sugar is with weight than 1:1 ratio mixing;Oligosaccharide is sucrose and cyclodextrin, and sucrose:Cyclodextrin is with weight than 1:0.5 ratio Mixing;Polysaccharide is Sodium Hyaluronate, and its molecular weight is 400,000 Da to 2,200,000 Da;
Composite reactive agent weight 3-20% water-soluble silicon oil is accounted for, the water-soluble silicon oil is two polyethylene glycol -15- methyl ethers Dimethyl silicone polymer;
Account for composite reactive agent weight 5-10% ispol, the ispol be by alanine, serine, Glycine, glutamic acid, cysteine composition, and alanine:Serine:Glycine:Glutamic acid:Cysteine is with weight than 1:1: 1:0.2:0.1 ratio mixing;
Account for composite reactive agent weight 1-5% pyrrolidone sodium carboxylate (Anjidew NL50);
Account for composite reactive agent weight 0.5-3% ethoxy urea;
And the water of surplus.
Hair care and nourishing composition of the present invention, contains the DPG for accounting for composition weight percentage 10%.
Hair care and nourishing composition of the present invention, wherein the cationic polymer is selected from cationic cellulose polymer, sun from At least one of sub- guar polymer.
Hair care and nourishing composition of the present invention, wherein the cationic surfactant is selected from behentrimonium chloride At least one of ammonium, double octadecyldimethyl ammonium chlorides.
Hair care and nourishing composition of the present invention, wherein the viscosity of the hydroxyethyl cellulose is 85000-100000mPa.s.
Hair care and nourishing composition of the present invention, wherein the glycine is trimethylglycine.
Hair care and nourishing composition of the present invention, wherein the Sodium Hyaluronate molecular weight is 1,000,000 Da to 1,800,000 Da.
Shampoo composite of the present invention, wherein the hair moisturizing composite reactive agent is by hexylene glycol NMF, pyrrolidones Carboxylic acid sodium (Anjidew NL50) NMF, ethoxy urea NMF, carbohydrate NMF, water-soluble silicon oil NMF, amino acids NMF Formed with the water of surplus;Wherein, carbohydrate NMF is with weight ratio 5 by monose, oligosaccharide and polysaccharide:2:1 ratio mixing, its Middle monose is fructose and glucose, and oligosaccharide is sucrose and cyclodextrin, and polysaccharide is Sodium Hyaluronate;Amino acids NMF is third Propylhomoserin, serine, glycine, glutamic acid and cysteine and with weight ratio 1:1:1:0.2:0.1 ratio mixing, the sweet ammonia Acid is trimethylglycine.
Compared with prior art, the present invention has advantages below:
Hair care and nourishing composition of the present invention, it is from the natural compound work with collaboration hair moisture-keeping function by a kind of Property agent composition, the composite reactive agent is hexylene glycol NMF, containing fructose, glucose, sucrose, cyclodextrin, Sodium Hyaluronate sugar Class NMF, the amino acids containing alanine, serine, trimethylglycine, glutamic acid, cysteine nourish moisturizing composition, The various dimensions moisturizing compositions such as pyrrolidone sodium carboxylate NMF, ethoxy urea NMF, water-soluble silicon oil NMF form, correct There is various dimensions moisturizing profit to support for skin and hair, water lock, moisturizing effect, moistens to support and dries scalp, overcomes conventional Haircare composition institute The silicone oil and cationic surfactant formula system of use only focus on the technological deficiency of hair surface maintenance.
Specific embodiment
The selection to instant component and effect are described in detail below.
Contain the hair moisturizing composite reactive agent for accounting for composition weight 1-20% in the shampoo composite of the present invention, preferably 3% to 15% hair moisturizing composite reactive agent, the hair moisturizing composite reactive agent is by hexylene glycol NMF, pyrrolidones Carboxylic acid sodium (Anjidew NL50) NMF, ethoxy urea NMF, carbohydrate NMF, water-soluble silicon oil NMF, amino acids NMF Formed with water;Wherein, carbohydrate NMF is by monose, and oligosaccharide and polysaccharide composition, wherein monose are fructose and glucose, oligomeric Sugar is sucrose and cyclodextrin, and polysaccharide is Sodium Hyaluronate;Amino acids NMF is by alanine, serine, glycine, paddy ammonia Acid and cysteine composition.Concrete composition and activity are as follows:
Composite reactive agent weight 10-28% hexylene glycol is accounted for, accounts for composite reactive agent weight 10-20% carbohydrate admixture, The carbohydrate admixture is by monose, oligosaccharide and polysaccharide composition, and monose:Oligosaccharide:Polysaccharide is with weight than 5:2:1 ratio is mixed Close;Monose is fructose and glucose, and fructose:Glucose is with weight than 1:1 ratio mixing;Oligosaccharide is that sucrose and ring are pasted Essence, and sucrose:Cyclodextrin is with weight than 1:0.5 ratio mixing, polysaccharide is Sodium Hyaluronate.
Composite reactive agent weight 3-20% water-soluble silicon oil is accounted for, the water-soluble silicon oil is the poly- diformazans of PEG/PPG-22/23 Radical siloxane;Composite reactive agent weight 5-10% ispol is accounted for, the ispol is by alanine, silk ammonia Acid, glycine, glutamic acid and cysteine composition, wherein, alanine:Serine:Glycine:Glutamic acid:Cysteine is with weight Measure ratio 1:1:1:0.2:0.1 ratio mixing;Account for composite reactive agent weight 1-5% pyrrolidone sodium carboxylate (Anjidew NL50) moisturizing Agent;Account for composite reactive agent weight 0.5-3% ethoxy urea NMF;
And the water of surplus.
Hair moisturizing composite reactive agent
Hexylene glycol.Hexylene glycol, English name:2-Methyl-2,4-pentanediol, Hexylene Glycol. are colourless Transparency liquid.There is gentle sweet fragrance.It is dissolved in water, ethanol, ether, low-carbon aliphatic hydrocarbon.As solvent, spices, medical disinfectant. Diacetone alcohol is obtained by condensation of acetone, then obtained through liquid-phase hydrogenatin.Hexylene glycol molecular formula C6H14O2, molecular weight, 118.17g/ Mol, relative density (g/mL):0.925, can be miscible with water, lower alcohol, ether, various aromatic hydrocarbon, aliphatic hydrocarbon etc..In the present invention As solvent and scalp and hair NMF.
Carbohydrate, also known as carbohydrate (English:Carbohydrate or saccharide), it is polyhydroxy aldehyde or polyhydroxy The general name of ketone and its condensation polymer and some derivatives, it is similar in the performance of chemical formula because it is made up of carbon, hydrogen, oxygen element It polymerize in " carbon " with " water ", therefore also referred to as carbohydrate.Carbohydrate is widely distributed a kind of important organic in nature Compound.The sucrose of daily consumption, the starch in grain, the cellulose in plant, glucose in blood of human body etc. belong to Carbohydrate.For from biological function, carbohydrate plays an important role during vital movement, is a kind of important in human body Energy source.
Carbohydrate is the important nutrient of human body, is broadly divided into monose, oligosaccharide and polysaccharide, and play very in human body Important role.Monose, oligosaccharide and polysaccharide are used in the present invention and with weight ratio 5:2:1 ratio mixing, molecular weight from Bottom is uniformly distributed to height again in.The proportion optimizing dry scalp of monose, oligosaccharide and polysaccharide that the present invention contains has certain Moisture-keeping functions, there is good coordination moisture-keeping function to hair.
Monose.Monose (monosaccharide):Turn into smaller carbohydrate due to that can not hydrolyze, therefore it is this Minimum molecule in class.They are some aldehydes or ketones classes with two or more hydroxyl.The monose chemical formula of unmodified mistake It can be expressed as:(C 〃 H2O)) n, it is referred to as " carbohydrate " because it is all the multiple of carbon and hydrone.Monose is a kind of important Fuel molecule, and the structure fragment of nucleic acid.N=3 in minimum monose, i.e.,:Dihydroxyacetone (DHA) or D- and L- glyceraldehyde, By that analogy such as, triose (glyceraldehyde);Pentose, pentose is such as:Ribose, deoxyribose;Hexose is such as:Glucose, fructose (chemical formula All it is C6H12O6), glucose is pyranose, and fructose is furanose.
Monose is fructose and glucose in the present invention.
Fructose (C6H12O6) is a kind of simple sugared (monose), is highly soluble in water, exists in numerous food product, and grape Sugar, galactolipin together form three kinds of Main Ingredients and Appearances of blood glucose.Honey, the fruit on tree, berry is melon, and some root classes Vegetables are such as:Beet, sweet tea potato, parsnip, onion etc. contain fructose;Fructose molecule is small compared with sucrose, and the production of sucrose decomposition Thing, sucrose is a kind of disaccharide, and in digestion process, a glucose and a fructose are decomposed into due to the catalysis characteristics of enzyme. Fructose is polyhydroxy ketose, molecular formula:CH2OH (CHOH) 3C=OCH2OH, molecular weight:180.16, it is water-soluble:3750g/L(20 DEG C), in carbohydrate, the hygroscopicity of fructose is most strong, it is easy to absorbs moisture.Fructose is monose, and molecule is small compared with sucrose, osmotic pressure ratio Sucrose is higher by one times, can penetration cell tissue quickly, solubility is high, and diffusion velocity is fast in water, and therefore, fructose is applied and head Hair care product has good permeability moisture-keeping functions to hair.
Glucose (Glucose) (chemical formula C6H12O6), white crystals or particulate powder, also known as corn sugar, jade Chinese sorghum sugar, referred to as glucose.The glucose unlike fructose is polyhydroxy aldose, so reduced sugar is also, molecular formula: CH2OH (CHOH) 4CHO, molecular weight:180.16, it is the indispensable nutriment of metabolism in organism, is nature point A kind of most wide and mostly important monose of cloth.Glucose, chemical name:2,3,4,5,6- penta hydroxy group hexanals, glucose is in biology Field has critical role, is the main Energy supply material of the energy source of living cells and metabolic intermediate product, i.e. biology, its Physical characteristic:White crystal, it is soluble in water, sweet, 146 DEG C of fusing point, containing five hydroxyls, an aldehyde radical, there are polynary alcohols and aldehydes Property.It is soluble in water with hygroscopicity, there are moisture-keeping functions.
Oligosaccharide, oligosaccharide are also known as oligosaccharides (English control:oligosaccharide;oligosaccharides; Oligose), refer to the compound being polymerized containing 2-10 glycosidic bond, can make to be the glycosides hydroxyl of monose and another list Certain monohydroxy of sugar shrinks to be formed.They usually with protein or lipid covalent bond, exist in the form of glycoprotein or glycolipid. 2~4 monose are generally formed by connecting small aggressiveness by oligosaccharide by glycosidic bond, and it includes functional oligose and common oligomeric Sugar, most common oligosaccharide are disaccharides, also known as disaccharide, are that two monose are combined into by glycosidic bond, connect being total to for they Main two major class of valence link type:The sweet of bonding of N- sugar and O-glycosides of bonding.1. N- glucosides of bondings:Oligonucleotide chain is with the Asn's on polypeptide Amino is connected.This kind of oligonucleotide chain has three kinds of main Types:High mannose type, heterozygous and complexity.2. O-glycosides of bonding, oligosaccharides Chain is connected with the Ser on polypeptide chain or Thr hydroxyl, or is connected with the hydroxyl of film fat.In garlic, onion, burdock, asparagus, beans There is the presence of oligosaccharide in the foods such as class, honey.Oligosaccharide can come out from natural plant extraction, can also utilize biochemical section Skill and ferment reaction, are synthesized using starch and disaccharide (such as sucrose).Common oligosaccharide such as malto-oligosaccharide glucose (α- The combination of Isosorbide-5-Nitrae glycosidic bond), isomalto-oligosaccharide glucose (α -1,6 glycosidic bond combinations) anti-caries, promote Bifidobacterium propagation, ring Shape dextrin glucose (ring-type α-Isosorbide-5-Nitrae glycosidic bond combination) low heat value, prevents Cholesterol Accumulation, and gentiobiose glucose (β -1,6 Glycosidic bond combination) bitter taste can form packaging junctor, coupling sugar (Coup ling sugar) glucose (α-Isosorbide-5-Nitrae glucosides bond Close), sucrose anti-caries, fructose oligosaccharides fructose (β -1,2 glycosidic bond combinations), sucrose promotion Bifidobacterium propagation, panose grape Sugared (α -1,6 glycosidic bond combinations), fructose anti-caries, trehalose glucose (α -1,1 glycosidic bond combination), fructose anti-caries are excellent Matter sweet taste, sucrose oligosaccharide glucose (α -1,6 glycosidic bond combinations), the anti-caries such as sucrose, promote Bifidobacterium propagation, cow's milk Oligosaccharide galactolipin (β-Isosorbide-5-Nitrae glycosidic bond combination), glucose backbone anti-caries, promote Bifidobacterium propagation, chitin oligosaccharide acetyl Glucosamine (β-Isosorbide-5-Nitrae glycosidic bond combination), sucrose antitumor activity, soyabean oligosaccharides galactolipin (α -1,6 glycosidic bond combinations), sugarcane Sugar promotes Bifidobacterium propagation, GOS galactolipin (β -1,6 glycosidic bond combinations), and sucrose promotes Bifidobacterium propagation, Fructose type oligosaccharide galactolipin (α -1,2 ':β -1 ', 2 glycosidic bond combinations) high-quality sweet taste, different qualityxylans xylose (β-Isosorbide-5-Nitrae glucosides Bond is closed) water activity regulation.
Oligosaccharide of the present invention uses sucrose and cyclodextrin.
Sucrose is photosynthetic primary product, is distributed widely in plant, is particularly contained in beet, sugarcane and fruit Measure high, usually edible white sugar, brown sugar is all sucrose.Sucrose is by a molecule glucose and a molecule fructose dehydrating condensation shape Into molecular weight 342.3.Molecular formula:C12H22O11, density 1.5805, fusing point 190-192ºC, specific rotatory power 67& ordm;(C=26, IN WATER 25ºC), water-soluble 1970G/L (15ºC).
Cyclodextrin is a kind of glucose oligosaccharide annular in shape.Under normal conditions, cyclodextrin is by 6,7 or 8 glucose Unit is by α, crystalline solid that 1-4 keys ring-type is connected with each other, claim respectively α-, β-or gamma-cyclodextrin.Alpha-cyclodextrin:No. CAS: 51211-51-9, molecular formula:C36H60O30, molecular weight:972.8436, relative density:1.624g/cm3 outward appearance:White crystal Powder, fusing point:It is 278 DEG C, water-soluble:145G/L(25℃).Cyclodextrin has hole at the center of cyclic structure, and inside has hydrocarbon The oxygen atom that key is combined with glycoside, water-based in sulphur, 2 position of glucose, the hydroxyl of 3 and 6 are in hydrophily, that is, presented Interior hydrophobic outer hydrophilic characteristic, can by faint Van der Waals force by other molecular complex into inclusion compound.It can be connect by cyclodextrin bag Material it is a lot, such as dyestuff, spices, medicine, food, agricultural chemicals and preservative.After bag connects, its stability, volatility, dissolving Property, reactivity all make moderate progress.This special role of cyclodextrin, make it and connect material with the bag extensively using value Such as, the purposes in medical industry can generate inclusion compound (capsulation) using cyclodextrin with medicine, can make (1) unstable medicine Thing stabilizes (2) hygroscopy, adherence or liquid medicine powdered (3) slightly solubility or insoluble drugs solubilized (solubilising) etc.; Improve the stability of institute's coating active components;It can also make emulsifying agent and quality improver etc. with cyclodextrin in cosmetics manufacture. The effect of cyclodextrin (alpha-cyclodextrin) of the present invention is moisturizing and hydrotropy.
Polysaccharide.Polysaccharide (polysaccharide) is to pass through the strong polymerization of glucosides by more than 10 monosaccharide molecules or derivatives thereof The high-molecular compound formed, the also known as high polymer formed by many monosaccharide molecules or derivatives thereof condensation, high glycan.It can divide For homopolysaccharide and the class of heteroglycan two.The polysaccharide formed is condensed by a kind of monose and is referred to as homopolysaccharide, such as starch, cellulose.By two The polysaccharide that kind above monose or derivatives thereof condensation is formed is referred to as heteroglycan, such as hyaluronic acid, chondroitin sulfate;By glycan molecule In have unbranched, be divided into straight-chain polysaccharide and branched polysaccharides;According to the difference of function, it is more to be divided into structural polysaccharide, storage polysaccharide, antigen Sugar etc.;It is divided into exocellular polysaccharide, intracellular polyse again by its Germ distribution.
Polysaccharide of the present invention is selected from chondroitin sulfate and hyaluronic acid, preferably clear matter acid.
Chondroitin sulfate (CS), extraction source are shark, ox, pig, the cartilage of chicken, are to be covalently attached to be formed on protein A kind of glycosaminoglycan of proteoglycans.Chondroitin sulfate is distributed widely in the extracellular matrix and cell surface of animal tissue, sugar Chain is made up of alternate glucuronic acid and N- acetylgalactosamines (also known as N- acetylamino galactosamines) disaccharide unit, passes through one It is individual to be connected to like sugared link zone on the serine residue of core protein.Chondroitin sulfate:It is soft with sulfuric acid as mucopolysaccharide material Ossein sodium salt (CHONDROITIN SULFATE SODIUM) is most commonly seen.Chondroitin sulfate for white or off-white powder, nothing It is smelly, have draw it is moist, the aqueous solution tool toughness, heating it is non-condensing, it is readily soluble in water, it is organic insoluble in ethanol, acetone and ether etc. In solvent, its esters is relatively stable to heat, heated not also to be destroyed up to 80 DEG C.The chondroitin sulfate aqueous solution, meet higher temperature or acid It is i.e. unstable, mainly deacetylation or it is degraded into monose or the less polysaccharide of molecular weight.Chondroitin sulfate of the present invention is sulfuric acid Chondroitin sodium, there is beauty, the anti-ageing effect of waiting for a long time, improve the drying of skin and hair.
Sodium Hyaluronate also known as sodium hyaluronate, sodium hyaluronate sodium, uronic acid sodium, for the material extracted from cockscomb, it can also lead to Cross Lactococcus fermentation be made, for white or off-white color particle or powder, odorless, dry when, nitrogen content 2.8%- 4.0%, glucuronic acid content is 37.0%-51.0%.Hyaluronic acid is a kind of high molecular polymer.It is by unit D- grapes The higher polysaccharides of uronic acid and N-acetyl-glucosamine composition.By β -1 between D-Glucose aldehydic acid and N-acetyl-glucosamine, 3- is with sugar Key is connected, and is connected between dissacharide units by β-Isosorbide-5-Nitrae-glycosidic inkage.Dissacharide units are up to as many as 25000.Hyaluronic acid in vivo Molecular weight is from 5 thousand to 2 thousand ten thousand dalton.Molecular formula:(C14H21NO11) n, hyaluronic acid are a kind of acid mucopolysaccharides, 1934 years Columbia Univ USA ophthalmology professor Meyer etc. isolates the material from bovine vitreous body first, and (sodium hyaluronate is translated for mistake Name, RESTIAID hyaluronic acid hyal- mean glass-like, clear transparent, and uronic acid Uronic acid is referred to, sodium hyaluronate does not have any relation with uric acid).Hyaluronic acid is existed with its unique molecular structure and physicochemical property Show a variety of important physiological functions in body, such as lubricating joint, adjust the permeability of vascular wall, regulatory protein matter, water power Matter diffusion and operating are solved, promotes wound healing etc..Particular, it is important that contain substantial amounts of carboxyl and hydroxyl in hyaluronan molecule Base, hydrogen bond can be formed with water, there is very strong bag outlet capacity, be the material that moisture retention is best in the nature having now been found that, be The best material of moisture retention in the nature having now been found that, it is referred to as preferable natural moisture preserving because of (Natural Moisturizing factor, NMF), such as:The 2% water-soluble liquid energy of pure hyaluronic acid firmly holds 98% moisture.It is transparent Matter acid is a kind of multi-functional matrix, and hyaluronic acid (sodium hyaluronate) HA is distributed widely in partes corporis humani position.Wherein skin is also containing big The hyaluronic acid of amount.Human skin is ripe and ageing process changes also with content and the metabolism of hyaluronic acid, and it can To improve skin-nourishing metabolism, make skin it is tender, it is smooth, go to wrinkle, increase it is elastic, prevent aging, be good again while moisturizing Good skin penetration enhancer.It is used cooperatively with other nutritional ingredients, the more preferable effect for promoting nutrient absorption can be played, thoroughly Bright matter acid, to keep the moisture of skin, hair, is grown available in the products such as the cream of cosmetics, frost, honey, milk, facial mask, shampoo Moisten skin, hair, increase gloss, and the generation of chapped skin and wrinkle can be prevented.Polysaccharide of the present invention is chondroitin sulfate, transparent Matter acid sodium, preferably Sodium Hyaluronate.Sodium Hyaluronate molecular weight of the present invention be 400,000 dalton to 2,200,000 dalton, go forward side by side One-step optimization is 1,000,000 dalton to 1,800,000 dalton, the correct work initiated to film forming and moisturizing of Sodium Hyaluronate of the present invention With.
Water-soluble silicon oil
A kind of polyether-modified polydimethylsiloxanecopolymer copolymer, because its silicone backbone and hydrophilic radical coexist, make It has good water solubility, while smell is gentle, and temperature and photostability are outstanding, has well with the polar component in formula Compatibility, the skin sense that gentle, salubrious and silk can be brought to slide, and keep in the case where being combined with hydrone strength the wet of skin and hair Profit, has the function that wetting, foam stabilization, emulsification, can be used as hair conditioner, provides and moistens and silky soft and smooth sense for hair Feel.As the DC-193 of DOW CORNING, INCI are named as PEG/PPG-22/23 dimethyl silicone polymers;The DMC6038 of wacker chemicals, INCI is named as two polyethylene glycol -15- methyl ether dimethicones and the DMC6031 of wacker chemicals, NICI are named as The dimethyl silicone polymer of polyethylene/polypropylene glycol -25/25.The DMC6038 of water-soluble silicon grease separation wacker chemicals of the present invention, it is Two polyethylene glycol -15- methyl ether dimethicones.
Amino acid
Scald dye, blowing hot wind, frequently using bad shampoo, drying weather the problems such as make hair scale piece be damaged, inside hair Protein-loss, cause hair to become short-tempered, it is inelastic, it is difficult to arrange.Amino acid is a kind of moisturizing ingredient of natural structure, Biostearin material.Amino acid is relatively good to the affinity of hair, the cavity that can be filled up in hair, reaches the work for repairing hair With.Amino acid used in the present invention is the moisturizing for hair, and alanine known to us can be to the moisturizing of hair, essence Propylhomoserin can improve the hydrophobicity on hair top layer, serine and Glutamatergic supplement hair moisture, glycine lifting moisture retention and Antistatic behaviour, cysteine and histidine can improve toughness of hair etc..The amino acid such as arginine, asparagus fern that the present invention is included Propylhomoserin, glycine, alanine, serine, proline, threonine, isoleucine, histidine, phenylalanine, glutamic acid, half Guang Propylhomoserin etc..The preferred alanine of the present invention, glutamic acid, serine, glycine and cysteine.
Alanine.Alanine is the base unit for forming protein, is one of 20 kinds of amino acid for forming human body protein. There are two kinds of isomers of α alanine and beta Alanine, Beta-alanine is that sterling is that white prismatic crystallizes, 200 DEG C of fusing point, relatively Density 1.437 (19 DEG C), molecular weight 89.09, is dissolved in water, is slightly soluble in methanol and ethanol, insoluble in ether and acetone.The present invention Beta-alanine is NMF.
Glutamic acid.Glutamic acid is a kind of acidic amino acid.Intramolecular contains two carboxyls, and chemical name is alpha-amido penta 2 Acid, molecular formula:C5H9NO4, outward appearance:White or colourless flake shape crystal, sublimation point:200 DEG C, decomposition point:It is 247-249 DEG C, close Degree:1.538, solubility (water):7.5g/L, molecular weight:147.13076.Glutamic acid of the present invention is NMF.
Serine.Serine also known as β serines, it is a kind of nonessential amino acid, rich in egg, fish, soybean, people Body can also synthesize serine from glycine, and it is played in the metabolism of fat and aliphatic acid and the growth of muscle makees With because it contributes to the generation of immunoglobulin and antibody, maintain health immune system be also required to serine.Serine exists All play and act in the synthesis of the sheath for manufacturing processing, musculature and encirclement nerve cell of cell membrane.Serine is white Crystalline solid or crystalline powder, the micro- sweet tea of taste, soluble in water and formic acid, insoluble in ethanol and ether.Serine of the present invention is grown for hair Form part.
Glycine.Also known as amion acetic acid, it is human body nonessential amino acid.Title is abridged:Gly glycine is amino acid series Middle structure is the simplest, a kind of nonessential amino acid of human body, has acid and basic functionality simultaneously in the molecule, in water It is ionizable, there is very strong hydrophily, belong to polar amino acid, be dissolved in polar solvent, and non-polar solven is insoluble in, and have There are higher boiling point and fusing point, can make glycine that different molecular conformations be presented by the regulation of aqueous solution acid-base property.This hair Bright glycine is trimethylglycine, also known as glycine betaine, is good NMF, antistatic additive, thickening agent, viscosity-control additive. Trimethylglycine chemical formula C5H11NO2, molecular formula C5H11NO2, molecular weight 117.15, solubility:160g/100G water.
Cysteine.Alias includes:2- amino-3-mercaptopropionic acids, β-sulfydryl-α-aminopropionic acid, 3- cysteines;Sulphur For serine, Cys, L- cysteines.Cysteine is a kind of amino acid with physiological function, is composition egg The only amino acid with reproducibility group sulfydryl (- SH) in 20 several amino acids of white matter, now in medicine, food addition Extensive use in agent and cosmetics.Cysteine molecule formula:C3H7NO2S, molecular weight:121.15 solubility in water: 277.433g/L (25 DEG C, water), dissolubility aspect,:Diluted mineral acid and alkaline solution are dissolved in, is not readily dissolved in water, is insoluble in ethanol, Insoluble in ether and chloroform.Cysteine energy maintenance hair, strengthen the toughness of hair.
Pyrrolidone sodium carboxylate (Anjidew NL50).Pyridine alkanone carboxylic acid sodium, the entitled L- pyridines alkanone -5- carboxylic acid sodiums of chemistry, referred to as L-PCA-Na (Anjidew NL50), molecular weight:151.1. pyridine alkanone carboxylic acid sodium is to belong to NMF class NMF, as solid The composition of water moisturizing, it is one of important composition of human body moisturizing factor.Anjidew NL50 has shrink moisturizing work(to scalp and hair The effects such as energy, the structure for reinforcing hair, polishing, color protection.
Ethoxy urea.Ethoxy urea is a kind of chemical substance, and molecular formula is C3H8N2O2, CAS#:[2078-71-9], point Son amount:104.11, outward appearance:It is colourless to light yellow clear liquid, pH (10% aqueous solution):6.0-10.0 solid content %:48.0- 52.0 electrical conductivity (10% aqueous solution):<150, urea (wt%):<1%.It is largely used in skin care moisturizer, as moisturizing Agent, the effect of ethoxy urea is that the undamaged portion Evening Primerose Oil for repairing hair nourishes in the present invention, is also had to scalp certain Moisture retention.
Cationic polymer.Such as, guar polymer is guar gum to cationic polymer described in Haircare composition of the present invention Hydroxypropyl-trimethyl ammonium chloride.The guar hydroxypropyltrimonium ammonium chloride is pale yellow powder, is that guar gum is quaternized Obtained product.The guar hydroxypropyltrimonium ammonium chloride, substitution value 0.1-0.2, nitrogen content 1.3-1.7%;Its He be applied to the present invention cationic polymer be hydroxyethyl cellulose and alkyl trimethyl ammonium chloride copolymer, according to sun from The difference of sub- substitution value is divided into:High-cation substitution value JR, cationic substitution value LR and tri- kinds of types of low degree ofacationic substitution LK Number, preferred cationic substitution value.Subject cationic polymer is selected from cationic cellulose polymer, and cation guar gum gathers At least one of compound;It is 0.05% to 3% that subject cationic polymer, which accounts for present composition percentage by weight, optimization For 0.05% to 0.5%.
Cationic surfactant.Cationic surfactant described in Haircare composition of the present invention is alkyl quaternaries table Face activating agent such as, hexadecyltrimethylammonium chloride, OTAC, INCROQUAT TMC-80, At least one of dioctadecyl dimethyl ammonium chloride, Varisoft 432PPG, three spermaceti methyl ammoniums. Other alkyl quaternary ammonium salts for being applied to the present invention also have:Dodecyl benzyl dimethyl ammonium chloride, octadecyl benzyl ammonium chloride, Coconut aliphatic radical trimethyl ammonium chloride, oleic acid aliphatic radical trimethyl ammonium chloride, butter aliphatic radical trimethyl ammonium chloride, double dimethyls Ammonium chloride, double coconut aliphatic radical alkyl dimethyl ammonium chlorides, double butter aliphatic radical alkyl dimethyl ammonium chlorides, double h-tallow aliphatic radical dimethyl chlorides Change ammonium etc..Cationic surfactant described in the present composition elects INCROQUAT TMC-80 and double octadecyls as One kind in alkyl dimethyl ammonium chloride.Subject cationic surfactant accounts for composition weight percentage 0.05% to 10%, excellent Turn to and account for composition weight percentage 0.5% to 3%.
Thickener.Include inorganic salts, surfactant-based, water soluble polymer class suitable for the thickener in cosmetics With fatty alcohol fatty acid etc..Thickener is by forming rod-shaped micelle with surfactant, acting on forming three-dimensional aquation net with water Network structure or macromolecular backbone using itself etc. make system reach the purpose of thickening.
Formulator will generally consider to be formulated the morphological evolution of final products, the morphological evolution of fluid when carrying out formula design It is divided into Newton and non-Newton fluid, Newtonian fluid is the shear stress fluid directly proportional to shear rate;Non-newtonian fluid There are pseudoplastic fluid, plastic fluid and dilatant body again.Pseudoplastic fluid and plastic fluid belong to the fluid of shear shinning, but mould Property fluid has yield value.Dilatant body belongs to the fluid of shear-thickening.The morphological evolution of product is adjusted, formulator is to be formulated Middle addition thickener achieves the goal.Appropriate morphological evolution can bring aesthetic feeling to product, be easy to use and produce, to the steady of formula It is qualitative also to have a certain impact.Use of the morphological evolution of some products even to product cuts much ice, for most of cream The cosmetics of shape require that the thixotropy of product is good, because requiring to keep preferable form in extrusion, when in use or outside Thinning it can be spread out under power effect.Thickener is exactly briefly to improve formulation product viscosity or a kind of material of denseness, Thickener addition is little, but can greatly improve the viscosity or denseness of product.
Washing thickener used in hair products, chemically attribute and application attribute aspect are divided into electrolytes, alcohols, acyl Amine, carboxylic acids, esters, water soluble polymer class etc..
The inorganic salts such as electrolytes such as sodium chloride, ammonium chloride, micella, electrolyte are formed in aqueous in surfactant Presence increase the association number of micella, cause spherical micelle to rod-shaped micelle convert, increase the resistance of motion, so that system Stickiness increase.But micellar structure can be influenceed when electrolyte excess, reduces the resistance of motion, so that system stickiness drops Low, here it is described " saltouing ".Therefore electrolyte addition typically constitutes from composition weight percentage 1% or so, and and its The thickener collective effect of his type, make system more stable.
Alcohols, carboxylic acids such as aliphatic alcohols and fatty acid are the organic matters with polarized, because of their existing lipophilic groups There is hydrophilic radical again, the property such as surface tension, micellar concentration of the presence Surfactant of some type organics has significantly Influence, it, which acts on size, is increased with the lengthening of carbochain, and its action principle is that fatty alcohol, aliphatic acid can insert surface-active Agent micelle, promote the formation of micelle, simultaneously because the polar organic matter has strong phase interaction with the intermolecular of surfactant With the Hydrogenbond between the hydrophobic effect and polar head of such as hydrocarbon interchain, two molecules are made to align on the surface very close, Surfactant micellar property is changed significantly, reaches the effect of thickening.Wash in hair products commonly use be fatty alcohol such as, bay Alcohol, myristyl alcohol, C12-15 alcohol, C12-16 alcohol, decyl alcohol, hexanol, octanol, cetanol, stearyl alcohol, cetostearyl alcohol (carbon 16/18 Alcohol) docosyl alcohol (alcohol of carbon 22) etc..
Alkanolamide class includes cocounut oil diglycollic amide, coconut monoethanol amide, cocounut oil list isopropanol amide, cocounut oil acyl Amine, lauroyl-LADEA, lauroyl-myristoyl diglycollic amide, different stearic diglycollic amide, sub- oily diethyl Alkylolamides, cardamom diglycollic amide, cardamom single ethanol amide, oily diglycollic amide, palm single ethanol amide, castor oil monoethanol Acid amides, sesame diglycollic amide, soybean diglycollic amide, stearic diglycollic amide, stearic monoethanolamide, stearic monoethanol acyl Amine stearate, stearmide, tallow single ethanol amide, wheat embryo diglycollic amide, the lauroyl of PEG (polyethylene glycol) -3 Amine, PEG-4 oleamides, PEG-50 tallow amides etc.,
Ethers for example cetanol polyoxyethylene (3) ether, different cetanol polyoxyethylene (10) ether, lauryl alcohol polyethylene glycol oxide (3) ether, Lauryl alcohol polyethylene glycol oxide (10) ether, Poloxamer-n (ethoxylation polyethenoxy ether) (n=105,124,185,237,238, 338th, 407) etc., esters include PEG-80 glyceryl butter ester, the diisopstearates of PEG-8PPG (polypropylene glycol) -3, PEG- 200 hydrogenating glycerol base palmitates, PEG-n (n=6,8,12) beeswax, PEG-4 isostearates, PEG-n (n=3,4,8, 150) distearate, PEG-18 glyceryl oleates/cocounut oil acid esters, PEG-8 dioleates, PEG-200 glyceryl stearic acid Ester, PEG-n (n=28,200) glyceryl butter ester, PEG-7 rilanit specials, PEG-40 jojoba oils, PEG-2 laurates, PEG-120 methyl glucose dioleates, the tetrastearate of PEG-150 seasons penta, PEG-55 propylene glycol oleates, PEG-160 mountains The isostearate of pears glycan three, PEG-n (n=8,75,100) stearate, PEG-150/ decyls/SMDI copolymers (poly- second two The common thing of the decyl of alcohol -150//methacrylate), PEG-150/ stearyls/SMDI copolymers, PEG-90 isostearates, PEG- 8/PPG-3 dilaurates, spermaceti cardamom ester, spermaceti palm ester, the sour glycol ester in C18-36, the tetrastearate of season penta, season penta Four behenates, propylene glycol stearate, behenyl ester, cetyl, tribehenin acid glyceride, trihydroxy tristerin etc..
Water soluble polymer class such as, 1, cellulose family:Cellulose, cellulose gum, carboxymethyl hydroxyethyl cellulose, spermaceti hydroxyl Ethyl cellulose, ethyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose, methylcellulose, Carboxymethyl cellulose etc.;2, polyoxyethylene such as, PEG-n (n=5M, 9M, 23M, 45M, 90M, 160M) etc..
Water-soluble cellulose polymer thickening mechanism is hydrophobic main chain with surrounding water molecules by hydrogen bond association, is improved poly- The fluid volume of compound in itself, reduce the space of Particle free activity, so as to improve system viscosity.Molecule can also be passed through The raising of viscosity is realized in the winding of chain, is shown as having high viscosity in static and low sheraing, is under high shear low-viscosity.This be because For static or low shearing speed when, cellulose molecular chain be in disordered state and makes system presentation high viscosity;And in high shear speed When spending, molecule makees ordered arrangement parallel to flow direction, is easy to mutually slide, so system viscosity declines.3rd, polyacrylic Such as, acrylate/C10-30 alkyl acrylate cross-linked polymers, acrylate/cetyl ethyoxyl (20) itaconate Copolymer, acrylate/cetyl ethyoxyl (20) methacrylate copolymer, acrylate/myristyl ethyoxyl (25) acrylate copolymer, acrylate/octadecyl ethyoxyl (20) itaconate copolymeric, propernoic acid ester/octadecane Base oxethyl (20) methacrylate copolymer, acrylate/octadecyl ethyoxyl (50) acrylate copolymer, propylene Acid esters/VA cross-linked polymers, PAA (polyacrylic acid), PAA/ethene isodecyl acid esters cross-linked polymer, Carbomer (poly- third Olefin(e) acid) and its sodium salt etc., its thickening mechanism of agent for polyacrylic acid thickening is that thickener is soluble in water, passes through the same of carboxylic acid ion Property electrostatic repulsion, strand be stretched to by helical form it is bar-shaped, so as to improve the viscosity of aqueous phase.4th, natural gum and its modifier Such as, alginic acid and its (ammonium, calcium, potassium) salt, pectin, Sodium Hyaluronate, guar gum, cation guar gum, HPG, Huang Alpine yarrow glue, antler glue and its (calcium, sodium) salt, xanthan gum, sclerotium gum etc., 5, inorganic polymer and its modifier such as, Magnesiumaluminumsilicate, Silica, sodium magnesium silicate, hydrated SiO 2, montmorillonite, bentonite, lithium metasilicate magnesium sodium, hectorite, stearic ammonium montmorillonite, Stearic ammonium hectorite, distearyl dimethylammonium hectorite, the montmorillonite of quaternary ammonium salt -90, the montmorillonite of quaternary ammonium salt -18, the water of quaternary ammonium salt -18 Pyroxene etc..Inorganic thickening agent such as bentonite is a kind of phyllosilicate, is expanded after water suction and forms flocculent substance, has good hang Buoyancy and dispersiveness, colloid is combined into appropriate water, charged particle can be discharged in water, increase system viscosity.
Hair care and nourishing composition of the present invention, thickener preferred fat alcohols and water soluble polymer class, fatty alcohol therein For cetostearyl alcohol (alcohol of carbon 16/18) and the mixture of docosyl alcohol (alcohol of carbon 22), and the alcohol of carbon 16/18:The alcohol of carbon 22 is with weight than 1:1 Ratio mixing;Fatty alcohol accounts for present composition weight ratio as 1% to 10%;Water soluble polymer class thickener is water solubility Nonionic cellulose polymer.Water-soluble nonionic cellulosic polymer of the present invention is that thickener is also conditioner.The fiber Plain polymer includes hydroxyethyl cellulose and hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose, and wherein hydroxyethyl cellulose uses to be preferential.Ethoxy Cellulose is prepared by the etherified reaction of base cellulose and oxirane or chlorethanol, and hydroxy ethyl fiber is known as different ranks, The viscosity and substitution value having nothing in common with each other, there is a different range of viscosities, the substitution value of each glucose unit ethoxy for 1.4 to 2.0.Hydroxyethyl cellulose mean molecule quantity is between 80.000 to 900.000.Belong to nonionic soluble fibre element ethers.This hair Bright hydroxyethyl cellulose such as U.S. Asia is across imperial water soluble ethoxyl cellulose250, LG-DOW hydroxy ethyl fiber Plain HEC QP-100MH, hydroxyethyl cellulose of the present invention use LG-DOW hydroxyethyl cellulose HEC.OP-100MH. viscosity for 85000-100000mpas (Brookfield RV viscosimeters), the hydroxyethyl cellulose of the high viscosity grade be it is pseudoplastic, it is molten Liquid under shear can be thinning, must be sticky when lotion is poured out from container, but is then needed when rubbing and being coated on hair on hand It is thinning, have moist feeling and easily disperse.It is 0.05% to 3.0% that hydroxyethyl cellulose, which accounts for present composition weight ratio, excellent Turn to 0.1% to 1%.
Cosmetically acceptable carrier.Dimethyl silicone polymer, hair care and nourishing composition of the present invention may include and account for combination Thing weight 0.05% to 6.0%, preferably 0.5% to 5.0% dimethyl silicone polymer, the dimethyl silicone polymer are waved to be non- Hair property dimethyl silicone polymer, the viscosity of the non-volatile dimethicones is 50cs to 300000cs.Other are applicable Also have in the dimethyl silicone polymer of the present invention:Amino modified dimethyl silicone polymer, polyether-modified dimethyl silicone polymer etc. Modified dimethyl polysiloxane.
Polyalcohol, polyalcohol described in Haircare composition of the present invention have propane diols, DPG, polyethylene glycol, 1,3 fourths two Alcohol, sorbierite, glycerine (glycerine) etc..Polyalcohol is DPG in hair care and nourishing composition of the present invention.Dipropyl in the present invention Glycol is mainly used to preservative used in the dissolving present invention and arrives the effect of dissolving and synergy.In the present invention, DPG Composition weight percentage is accounted for as 10%, optimization is weight percentage 5%.
Antioxidant, antioxidant of the present invention are BHT, BHA, and Vitwas E, preferred vitamin E acetic acid of the present invention Ester.The Haircare composition of the present invention, which includes, accounts for composition weight percentage as 0.05% to 5.0%.Further it is optimized for 0.2% To 1.5%.
Chelating agent, the non-limiting example of chelating agent of the present invention have:Ethylenediamine tetra-acetic acid, ethylenediamine tetra-acetic acid two Sodium, tetrasodium ethylenediamine tetraacetate, preferably disodium ethylene diamine tetraacetate.Heretofore described chelating agent accounts for composition weight percentage For 0.01% to 0.50%, 0.05% to 0.3% is further optimized for.
Preservative, preservative of the present invention have methyl hydroxybenzoate, propylben, Phenoxyethanol and decoyl hydroximic acid. Wherein, decoyl hydroximic acid is a kind of organic acid, in for white powder, contains hydroxyl and octyl group in molecular structural formula, deserves to be called A kind of surfactant of amphipathic characteristic, the suitable carbon chain lengths of caprylyl therein can promote saying for microbial cell membrane structure Solution, has good inhibition to mould, and with nipagin esters, Kathon CG and Form aldehyde release body preservative are gentle compared to property.It is pungent Acyl hydroximic acid is gentle to scalp in addition to inhibitor effectiveness, also has collaboration moisture-keeping function in the present invention.Decoyl hydroximic acid pH is applicable Scope is 3-7, molecular formula C8H17NO2, chemical structural formula such as structural formula I.Decoyl hydroximic acid of the present invention is had by the double friendly daily use chemicals in Kunshan Limit company produces.
Decoyl hydroximic acid structural formula I.
Preservative of the present invention is Phenoxyethanol and decoyl hydroximic acid, wherein, Phenoxyethanol accounts for present composition weight hundred Divide than being 0.05% to 0.8%, be optimized for 0.05% to 0.6%.Decoyl hydroximic acid accounts for present composition percentage by weight 0.05% to 0.5%, it is optimized for 0.05% to 0.3%.Protective system of the present invention is with the preparation of Phenoxyethanol and decoyl hydroximic acid Tested by challenge, the excitant of cationic surfactant can be reduced so that the present composition is to scalp and hair Nursing is more gentle and with collaboration nourishing effect.
Also containing appropriate amount of essence, pigment etc. in Haircare composition of the present invention.The selection of the essence, pigment, meet cosmetic The regulation of product sanitary standard, from the raw material of safety.
Preparation method.The present composition can be by any known or other effective suitable for providing Haircare composition Technology prepare, preparing the method for the composition of the present invention includes conventional preparation and hybrid technology.
Application method.The present composition is used in a manner of the cleaning of routine and conditioning hair, mainly including following several Individual step:
(A) with appropriate shampoo cleans hair;
(B) Haircare composition of the foregoing any one claim of effective dose is applied on the hair, with hot towel bag 5-15 minutes are wrapped up in, are further optimized for 5-10 minutes, the effective dose is generally in the range of 1 gram to 30 grams, preferably 2 to 10 Gram;
(C) or with water the composition on the hair is rinsed.
These steps can be repeated as many times as desired, to reach sought nursing effect.
Embodiment
Here is the non-limiting example of the composition of the present invention.The mesh being only given for explanation of these embodiments , limitation of the invention can not be interpreted as, because without departing from the spirit and scope of the present invention, can be to this Invention carries out many changes.In these embodiments, unless stated otherwise, all concentration is all percentage by weight.
Prepare embodiment I-Ⅹ
The method that treatment oil composite cream is stated in suitable preparation embodiment I-Ⅹ is as follows:
Suitable quantity of water is added in aqueous phase reactions tank, guar hydroxypropyltrimonium ammonium chloride is added and disperses, add second two Amine tetraacethyl disodium, alkyl quaternary ammonium salts include INCROQUAT TMC-80 or dioctadecyl dimethyl ammonium chloride, portion Point DPG etc. is warming up to 80 DEG C, added in another oil phase retort the alcohol of carbon 16/18, the alcohol of carbon 22, Vitwas E, It is warming up to 80 DEG C and is well mixed, cools after oil phase is added into aqueous phase homogeneous.Treat that temperature is down to 45 DEG C of addition moisturizing composite reactives Agent and constant temperature homogeneous 5 minutes, continue to add DPG during 40 DEG C of cooling, preservative, continue to stir after pigment or essence etc., really Guarantor obtains uniform mixture.
Embodiment I-V
Embodiment VI-Ⅹ
Highly preferred embodiment of the present invention is:
In embodiment I-Ⅹ, moisturizing composite reactive agent each component and content (weight ratio) are:Containing 26% hexylene glycol, contain (carbohydrate admixture is by monose, oligosaccharide, polysaccharide composition, and monose to 15% carbohydrate admixture:Oligosaccharide:Polysaccharide is with weight Measure ratio 5:2:1 ratio mixing;Monose is into and fructose by fructose and glucose group:Glucose is with weight than 1:1 ratio is mixed Close;Oligosaccharide is by sucrose, cyclodextrin composition, and sucrose:Cyclodextrin is with weight than 1:0.5 ratio mixing;Polysaccharide is transparent Matter acid sodium), containing 15% water-soluble silicon oil (water-soluble silicon oil is two polyethylene glycol -15- methyl ether dimethicones), Containing 10% ispol, (ispol is alanine:Serine:Glycine:Glutamic acid:Cysteine is with weight Measure ratio 1:1:1:0.2:0.1 ratio mixing), containing 2% pyrrolidone sodium carboxylate (Anjidew NL50), containing 2% ethoxy urea and remaining The water of amount.
The checking of hair moistening effect
The in vitro test of hair moistness:
Standard topknot (natural not damaged topknot) and the preparation for damaging topknot
The untreated topknot that is so without damage is derived from, is also standard topknot, passes through commercially available standard topknot, weight 18- 20 grams.
Standard topknot is handled through permanent permanent wave solution and is damaged the topknot of (moderate is damaged), it is standby.
Taking six beam hairs, wherein three beams hair is standard topknot, and another three beams hair is damaged topknot for treated moderate, six Beam topknot, which is put together, to be cleaned with shampoo and is gently smeared untill it will not drip with towel, and now topknot is in half-dried or wet tide State, then six beam topknots are respectively using the contrast 1 of the present invention, and contrast 2, the hair care prepared by embodiment II and embodiment VIII is supported Hair sample is handled, and per beam topknot with 1.5 grams of hair care and nourishing samples to handle, and is rinsed well with clear water, natural air drying is standby With.
Six beam hairs after natural air drying, are combed with comb, and six beam hairs then are upset into order and random arbitrary arrangement 6 evaluators trained are given, then evaluate the sensory effects of topknot respectively:Moistness, glossiness, cardability are submissive Property, volume sense, the scoring of each parameter is 0-5 points, and 5 points are that highest scores, and wherein highest scoring is set as A, by that analogy Until minimum scoring D, evaluation result is shown in Tables 1 and 2,
Table 1
Table 2
Drawn by above isolated experiment, the score of the embodiment of the present invention II and the embodiment of the present invention VIII is higher than 1 He of contrast The highest scoring of the scoring, the wherein embodiment of the present invention VIII of contrast 2.
Scalp comfortableness and hair moistness human trial
Test uses the moistness of scalp after product
The selection of volunteer.Moistening effect after hair is had one's hair wash is tested, an important thing is the suitable volunteer of selection. The type selection (dryness, neutral, oiliness) of volunteer's hair is extremely important.The generation of dry hair often derives from three kinds of feelings Condition, when it is physiological, two be pathology, third, environment or human factor.Hair is glossy necessary to lose, and can seem more withered Dry, the dry hair of real heredity is more rare, and only 5% people is exactly drying type hair from birth, and this dry hair is typically more thick Rough stiff, often the tangled mass because of curling, has no gloss.And the dry hair of vast majority of people belongs to the third type, it is due to Excessive Exposure to Sunlight, dry wind brush or using shampoo it is improper caused by, therefore dry find as rear, mistakenly occurs for many people Reduction shampoos are taken, it is expected that the hair oil of naturally secret assembles to get up to moisten hair, a large amount of dandruffs is as a result produced, until stifled The adipose gland of skin in hair follicle is filled in, causes hair more dry.Therefore, the dry hair of the third situation is selected during present invention selection volunteer Volunteer, which carries out test, will produce city's tune result of more preferable reference value.
The clinical assay of scalp comfortableness, hair moistness and hair conditioning:
Scalp comfortableness, hair moistness and hair conditioning evaluation method are:1 embodiment of embodiment I-Ⅹ and contrast will be prepared 60 Gan Fa for meeting the third situation described above volunteers are respectively issued to 2 embodiments of contrast to use.Volunteers make Had one's hair wash with before inventive samples according to oneself shampoo accustomed to using before, then reuse sample of the embodiment of the present invention, it is (every Interval one to two day hair washing once, every time hair washing after using inventive samples once), using tester after one week according to oneself Feel scored (it is required that being scored under the naturally dry state of hair), standards of grading finally count fraction, fraction is got over using 7 points of systems High effect is better;Scalp comfortableness methods of marking:1 point (scalp ratio before also itches) represents worst, and 7 points (scalp is comfortable, basic Reacted without any discomfort, scalp do not itch, and dandruff decreases) represent it is best;Hair moistness methods of marking:1 point (hair is grown Lubricant nature does not improve, hair moisten feel with it is similar before), 7 points (hair moistness is obviously improved, feel hair it is flexible, Hair has texture, and hair tail jag phenomenon disappears, and hair is more glossy);Hair conditioning methods of marking:1 point (hair conditioning does not have Have improvement, the sexy feel of Hair setting is even not as in the past), 7 points (it is obvious no matter hair conditioning improves in wet flushing and after doing, It is smooth to feel that hair has, flexible) evaluation result is shown in Table 3.
The scalp comfortableness of table 3 and hair moistness sensory evaluation statistics
It can be drawn by above sensory evaluation:The embodiment of the present invention I to Ⅹ relatively contrasts 2 embodiments of 1 embodiment and contrast All there is obvious advantage in terms of scalp comfortableness sensory evaluation scores and hair moistness sensory evaluation scores.Scalp comfortableness Improve moistness increase of the explanation present composition to scalp, theoretically the screen of I to Ⅹ pair of scalp of the embodiment of the present invention Barrier function tool has certain effect.In addition, the scoring embodiment of the present invention sample of hair conditioning and 2 samples of contrast 1 and contrast It is little compared to gap.

Claims (7)

1. a kind of hair care and nourishing composition containing efficient hair moisturizing complexing agent, except preservative, essence, chelating agent, antioxidant and Outside water, include:
(A) cationic polymer of composition weight percentage 0.05% to 0.5% is accounted for;
(B) cationic surfactant of composition weight percentage 0.5% to 3% is accounted for;
(C) the fatty alcohol thickener of composition weight percentage 0.5% to 10.0% is accounted for;
(D) the hydroxyethyl cellulose nonionic cellulose polymer thickener of composition weight percentage 0.05% to 1% is accounted for;
Fatty alcohol thickener therein is the mixture of cetostearyl alcohol and docosyl alcohol, and cetostearyl alcohol:Docosyl alcohol is with weight Than 1:1 ratio mixing;
(E) account for composition weight 1.0%-20% hair moisturizing composite reactive agent, the hair moisturizing composite reactive agent be by Following components forms:
Composite reactive agent weight 10-28% hexylene glycol is accounted for,
Composite reactive agent weight 10-20% carbohydrate admixture is accounted for, the carbohydrate admixture is by monose, oligosaccharide and polysaccharide group Into, and monose:Oligosaccharide:Polysaccharide is with weight than 5:2:1 ratio mixing;Monose is fructose and glucose, and fructose:Glucose With weight than 1:1 ratio mixing;Oligosaccharide is sucrose and cyclodextrin, and sucrose:Cyclodextrin is with weight than 1:0.5 ratio is mixed Close;Polysaccharide is Sodium Hyaluronate, and its molecular weight is 400,000 Da to 2,200,000 Da;
Composite reactive agent weight 3-20% water-soluble silicon oil is accounted for, the water-soluble silicon oil is two polyethylene glycol -15- methyl ethers poly- two Methylsiloxane;
Composite reactive agent weight 5-10% ispol is accounted for, the ispol is by alanine, serine, sweet ammonia Acid, glutamic acid, cysteine composition, and alanine:Serine:Glycine:Glutamic acid:Cysteine is with weight than 1:1:1: 0.2:0.1 ratio mixing;
Account for composite reactive agent weight 1-5% pyrrolidone sodium carboxylate;
Account for composite reactive agent weight 0.5-3% ethoxy urea;
Surplus is water.
2. hair care and nourishing composition according to claim 1, contains the DPG for accounting for composition weight percentage 5%.
3. hair care and nourishing composition according to claim 1, wherein the cationic polymer is selected from cationic cellulose At least one of polymer, cationic guar polymer.
4. hair care and nourishing composition according to claim 1, wherein the cationic surfactant is selected from docosyl At least one of trimethyl ammonium chloride, double octadecyldimethyl ammonium chlorides.
5. hair care and nourishing composition according to claim 1, the viscosity of the hydroxyethyl cellulose is 85000- 100000mPa.s。
6. hair care and nourishing composition according to claim 1, the glycine is trimethylglycine.
7. hair care and nourishing composition according to claim 1, the Sodium Hyaluronate molecular weight is 1,000,000 Da to 1,800,000 Da。
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