CN107105806B - 衣料 - Google Patents

衣料 Download PDF

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CN107105806B
CN107105806B CN201580072734.3A CN201580072734A CN107105806B CN 107105806 B CN107105806 B CN 107105806B CN 201580072734 A CN201580072734 A CN 201580072734A CN 107105806 B CN107105806 B CN 107105806B
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fiber
cotton
wadding
clothing material
clothing
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CN107105806A (zh
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白石笃史
中光准司
樱井大树
神野藤正隆
吉见贵宏
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Mizuno Corp
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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41D—OUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
    • A41D31/00—Materials specially adapted for outerwear
    • A41D31/04—Materials specially adapted for outerwear characterised by special function or use
    • A41D31/06—Thermally protective, e.g. insulating
    • A41D31/065—Thermally protective, e.g. insulating using layered materials
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41D—OUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
    • A41D31/00—Materials specially adapted for outerwear
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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
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    • A41D—OUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
    • A41D3/00—Overgarments
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    • D04H1/00—Non-woven fabrics formed wholly or mainly of staple fibres or like relatively short fibres
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    • D04H1/00—Non-woven fabrics formed wholly or mainly of staple fibres or like relatively short fibres
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    • D04H1/4391—Non-woven fabrics formed wholly or mainly of staple fibres or like relatively short fibres from fleeces or layers composed of fibres without existing or potential cohesive properties characterised by the use of certain kinds of fibres insofar as this use has no preponderant influence on the consolidation of the fleece characterised by the shape of the fibres
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    • D04H1/00—Non-woven fabrics formed wholly or mainly of staple fibres or like relatively short fibres
    • D04H1/40—Non-woven fabrics formed wholly or mainly of staple fibres or like relatively short fibres from fleeces or layers composed of fibres without existing or potential cohesive properties
    • D04H1/42—Non-woven fabrics formed wholly or mainly of staple fibres or like relatively short fibres from fleeces or layers composed of fibres without existing or potential cohesive properties characterised by the use of certain kinds of fibres insofar as this use has no preponderant influence on the consolidation of the fleece
    • D04H1/4391—Non-woven fabrics formed wholly or mainly of staple fibres or like relatively short fibres from fleeces or layers composed of fibres without existing or potential cohesive properties characterised by the use of certain kinds of fibres insofar as this use has no preponderant influence on the consolidation of the fleece characterised by the shape of the fibres
    • D04H1/43914—Non-woven fabrics formed wholly or mainly of staple fibres or like relatively short fibres from fleeces or layers composed of fibres without existing or potential cohesive properties characterised by the use of certain kinds of fibres insofar as this use has no preponderant influence on the consolidation of the fleece characterised by the shape of the fibres hollow fibres
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04H—MAKING TEXTILE FABRICS, e.g. FROM FIBRES OR FILAMENTARY MATERIAL; FABRICS MADE BY SUCH PROCESSES OR APPARATUS, e.g. FELTS, NON-WOVEN FABRICS; COTTON-WOOL; WADDING ; NON-WOVEN FABRICS FROM STAPLE FIBRES, FILAMENTS OR YARNS, BONDED WITH AT LEAST ONE WEB-LIKE MATERIAL DURING THEIR CONSOLIDATION
    • D04H1/00—Non-woven fabrics formed wholly or mainly of staple fibres or like relatively short fibres
    • D04H1/40—Non-woven fabrics formed wholly or mainly of staple fibres or like relatively short fibres from fleeces or layers composed of fibres without existing or potential cohesive properties
    • D04H1/42—Non-woven fabrics formed wholly or mainly of staple fibres or like relatively short fibres from fleeces or layers composed of fibres without existing or potential cohesive properties characterised by the use of certain kinds of fibres insofar as this use has no preponderant influence on the consolidation of the fleece
    • D04H1/4391—Non-woven fabrics formed wholly or mainly of staple fibres or like relatively short fibres from fleeces or layers composed of fibres without existing or potential cohesive properties characterised by the use of certain kinds of fibres insofar as this use has no preponderant influence on the consolidation of the fleece characterised by the shape of the fibres
    • D04H1/43918—Non-woven fabrics formed wholly or mainly of staple fibres or like relatively short fibres from fleeces or layers composed of fibres without existing or potential cohesive properties characterised by the use of certain kinds of fibres insofar as this use has no preponderant influence on the consolidation of the fleece characterised by the shape of the fibres nonlinear fibres, e.g. crimped or coiled fibres
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    • D06M15/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
    • D06M15/19—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with synthetic macromolecular compounds
    • D06M15/37—Macromolecular compounds obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
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    • D06M15/19—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with synthetic macromolecular compounds
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  • Chemical Kinetics & Catalysis (AREA)
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  • Thermal Sciences (AREA)
  • Nonwoven Fabrics (AREA)
  • Professional, Industrial, Or Sporting Protective Garments (AREA)
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Abstract

本发明的衣料是在面料内包含絮棉、且存在绗缝线迹(2a，2b)的衣料(1)，上述絮棉是纤维截面的外周形状为圆状的聚酯短纤维棉，在表面固附有平滑剂，呈开放纤维(开纤)结构，构成上述絮棉的纤维具有不规则纤维直径。由此，能够提供即使为合成纤维棉、但纤维间的滑动良好、即使反复进行洗涤絮棉也不会偏移或疲劳变形、洗涤时的脱水也良好而容易干的衣料，适合于需要反复进行洗涤的运动衣料。此外，由于即使被汗、雨、雪、水等润湿也能够以膨松的状态穿着，所以容易用体温干燥，能够防止身体的发冷。

Description

衣料
技术领域
本发明涉及在面料内填充有絮棉的衣料。进一步详细而言，涉及适合于户外运动的衣料。
背景技术
以往，在寒冷时期注重采用在面料内填充有羽绒、合成纤维制絮棉等的衣料。专利文献1中提出了在车辆用缓冲材料中使用被多段拉伸、蓬松且具有弹力性且耐热疲劳变形性(thermal deformation resistance)优异的聚酯纤维。专利文献2中提出了将开纤后的短纤维与加压气体一起压入袋状布匹内。专利文献3中提出了包含没有加捻的纤维束和结合构件的人工羽毛。专利文献4中提出了将非多叶截面纤维的细短纤维与多叶截面纤维的细短纤维与粗短纤维混合而得到的混棉填塞棉。
现有技术文献
专利文献
专利文献1：日本特开平6-093513号公报
专利文献2：日本特开2006-307364号公报
专利文献3：日本专利第3973681号公报
专利文献4：日本特开2012-214951号公报
发明内容
发明所要解决的问题
但是，以往的装有羽绒的衣料若被汗、雨、雪等润湿，则存在粘在身体上让身体发冷的问题和无法洗涤的问题。装有合成纤维等絮棉的衣料存在以下问题：较重，或者手感不好，若反复洗涤则絮棉偏移或疲劳变形(fatigue)，或者洗涤时的脱水差、难干。
本发明为了解决上述以往的问题，提供即使为合成纤维棉、但纤维间的滑动良好、即使反复洗涤絮棉也不会偏移或疲劳变形、洗涤时的脱水也良好而容易干的衣料。
用于解决问题的方法
本发明的衣料是在面料内包含絮棉、且存在绗缝线迹(quilting stitch)的衣料，上述絮棉是纤维截面的外周形状为圆状的聚酯短纤维棉，在表面固附有平滑剂，呈开放纤维结构，构成上述絮棉的纤维具有不规则纤维直径。
发明效果
本发明通过在构成絮棉的纤维的单纤维中具有不规则纤维直径(粗度不均)、且为开放纤维结构，由此能够提供纤维间的滑动良好、即使反复洗涤、絮棉也不会偏移或疲劳变形、洗涤时的脱水也良好而容易干的衣料。由此，适合于需要反复进行洗涤的运动衣料。此外，即使被汗、雨、雪、水等润湿也能够以膨松的状态穿着，所以容易用体温干燥，能够防止身体的发冷。
附图说明
图1是本发明的一个实施例中的衣料的示意性主视图。
图2是填充在该衣料中的纤维的观察照片(使用数字显微镜，倍率为500倍)。
图3是表示使用了本发明的一个实施例的衣料和比较例2(羽绒)的衣料的保温性的比较实验的图表。
图4是表示使用了本发明的一个实施例的衣料和比较例2(羽绒)的衣料的洗涤后的干燥速度的比较实验的图表。
具体实施方式
本发明适合于在寒冷时期的登山、滑雪、跑步、步行、自行车运动、登山、网球等运动中穿着的填絮衣料。该衣料在面料内包含絮棉，加有绗缝线迹。若加有绗缝线迹，则絮棉难以移动，能够防止进行洗涤时的偏移。此外，作为运动用衣料的功能性高，难以妨碍人体的活动。
絮棉使用纤维截面的外周形状为圆状的纤维。优选使用纤维截面的外周形状为圆状的聚酯中空短纤维棉。若纤维截面的外周形状为圆状，则脱水性变好。此外，聚酯中空棉由于容易包含空气、温暖，所以一直以来被使用。在该絮棉的表面涂敷有平滑剂。通过平滑剂的涂敷，纤维间的滑动性变得良好。作为平滑剂，有聚有机硅氧烷等有机硅化合物、聚氧乙烯烷基醚等表面活性剂等。这些平滑剂优选可被固附于纤维表面、且具有耐洗涤性的物质。平滑剂相对于纤维的固附量优选为0.05～5质量％，进一步优选为0.1～3质量％，更优选为0.3～2质量％。
关于絮棉，为纤维截面的外周形状为圆状的纤维彼此不通过粘合剂或热粘合纤维等而结合、纤维的块没有被成型为片材状的状态，为以棉网为代表的开纤棉的状态。将该状态称为“开放纤维结构”。在以粘合剂进行结合的情况下，通常将包含有机溶剂的粘合剂涂布到纤维表面，将纤维彼此以粘合剂进行化学结合。在以热粘合纤维进行结合的情况下，通过热而将热粘合纤维融解，在该状态下纤维彼此相接的部位在冷却时结合。本发明的絮棉既不包含粘合剂也不包含热粘合纤维。
在构成本发明的絮棉的1根纤维(单纤维)中，具有不规则纤维直径。若具有不规则纤维直径则纤维间的摩擦变低。这是由于纤维间的接触接近点接触。通过由单纤维的不规则纤维直径而带来的摩擦降低、和由表面的平滑剂带来的滑动性提高的协同效果，成为即使反复进行洗涤，絮棉也不会偏移或疲劳变形、洗涤时的脱水也良好而容易干的衣料。这适合于以反复进行洗涤为前提的运动衣料。此外，由于即使被汗、雨、雪等湿润也能够以膨松的状态穿着，所以容易用体温干燥，能够防止身体的发冷。进而，由于纤维难以疲劳变形，所以在单纤维间包含空气，能够保持温暖。关于构成纤维的1根纤维的不规则纤维直径，优选在观察纤维侧面时的直径的最大与最小的差为2～20μm，进一步优选为3～18μm，更优选为3～15μm。若1根纤维直径的最大与最小的差低于2μm，则存在纤维彼此接触的面积变大、摩擦变高、通过洗涤等而缠绕、容易偏移的倾向。若上述差超过20μm，则由于凹凸变大，所以存在凸和凹挂住、通过洗涤等而缠绕、容易偏移的倾向。不规则纤维直径以将纤维进行数字显微镜观察并测量纤维直径而得到的数据表示。本发明的絮棉中，具有不规则纤维直径的纤维即使放入一部分即可，但优选放入10质量％以上。更优选具有不规则纤维直径的纤维的存在量为40质量％以上，进一步优选为60质量％以上。
由绗缝线迹包围的面积优选为3～800m2，进一步优选为4～600m2。若为该范围，则能够进一步改良耐洗涤性。若面积为3cm2以上，则蓬松不会被绗缝压坏，能够得到作为制品能让人满意的膨松感。絮棉每单位面积的填充量优选为50～500g/m2，进一步优选为80～400g/m2。在超过500g/m2而填充的情况下，作为制品，感觉到重，由于棉在绗缝内的活动受到限制，所以上身的感觉变差。在低于50g/m2的情况下，棉通过洗涤而发生偏移，产生外观变化。
纤维截面的外周形状为圆状的纤维棉的纤度优选为1.1～5.5dtex，进一步优选为1.5～5.0dtex。纤维长优选为10～100mm，进一步优选为15～80mm。中空率优选为10～50％，进一步优选为15～40％。若为上述的范围，则作为絮棉的保暖性、蓬松性等基本性质高。
纤维截面的外周形状为圆状的纤维棉的卷曲数优选为2～9个/2.5cm，进一步优选为3～8个/2.5cm。若为上述的范围，则作为絮棉，保暖性、蓬松性等基本性质高，难以疲劳变形。若卷曲变化率为25％以下，则因洗涤而产生的蓬松性的降低或偏移少，能够维持保温性。
本发明在面料内填充絮棉后，加有绗缝线迹，将上述絮棉的至少一部分固定在面料中。由此能够防止絮棉的活动，能够提高耐洗涤性。在面料内配置无纺布、并填充絮棉的情况下，絮棉与无纺布互相接触的摩擦阻力与面料相比变大，能够防止因洗涤而引起的偏移。无纺布优选为40g/m2以下。这是因为若超过该重量，则由于制品硬、出现刚性绷紧(stiffness and tension)，所以穿着者变得难以活动。无纺布的组成、成型方法、树脂的有无、树脂的种类不限。
以下使用附图进行说明。图1是本发明的一个实施例中的衣料的示意性主视图。该衣料1为带兜帽的夹克衫的例子，加有多根绗缝线迹2a、2b。图2是构成填充在该衣料中的絮棉的纤维的观察照片。详细的说明在实施例中进行。
实施例
以下使用实施例进一步进行具体说明。另外，本发明不受下述的实施例的限定性解释。
<洗涤偏移率>
将试样按照JIS L0217 103法进行洗涤，确认刚脱水后的试样的棉的偏移。计测部位设定为在试样内偏移最大的绗缝。洗涤偏移率通过下述的式子而算出。
洗涤偏移率(％)＝A/B×100
A：刚脱水后的绗缝内的棉发生偏移、厚度显著薄的部位的面积
B：在A中计测的绗缝的面积
<脱水率评价>
在洗涤前计测试样的重量，将此时的重量设为C。确认刚脱水后的试样的棉的偏移，将此时的重量设为D。脱水率评价通过下述的式子而算出。
脱水率(％)＝D/C×100
<保温性评价>
通过KES(精密迅速物性测定装置THERMOLABO II)保温性评价(ΔT＝20℃)而进行评价。
<官能评价>
让20名普通男性对于触摸试样时的膨松感、洗涤后试样的外观进行官能评价。评价基准如下所述。
1分：非常差
2分：差
3分：普通
4分：良好
5分：非常良好
<卷曲率评价>
按照JIS L 1015化学纤维长度试验方法进行评价，通过下述的计算式评价卷曲率。
卷曲变化率＝(F-E)/E×100
E：填充前的卷曲数(个/2.5cm)
F：填充后的卷曲数(个/2.5cm)
(实施例1～8)
将由聚对苯二甲酸乙二醇酯形成的中空短纤维棉(平均纤度为3.3dtex、纤维长为38mm、圆截面、中空率为20％、卷曲数为5个/25.4mm)作为絮棉。该絮棉被开纤，对表面赋予1质量％的包含聚有机硅氧烷系的有机硅化合物和聚氧乙烯烷基醚的纤维处理剂(平滑剂)，使其固附。该纤维的观察照片示于图2中，不规则纤维直径如表1中所示的那样。图2是使用KEYENCE株式会社制的数字显微镜装置，倍率为500倍)的观察照片。利用数字显微镜装置的测定方法如下所述。
本体：VHX Digital Microscope，VHX-200
透镜：VH-Z100
<显微镜2点间距离计测方法>
从状态栏的透镜按钮，选择使用的透镜倍率。
从菜单栏选择计测。
选择计测工具的2点间按钮，单击计测的2点间的起点。
单击终点，读取显示的距离。
起点、终点设定为从纤维的周围的最***到最***。
表1
Figure BDA0001344166620000061
(备注)直径前的括号内的编号表示图2的观察部位的编号。
使用将表1中所示的纤维A-C按照变得均质的方式混棉而得到的絮棉，作为外面、衬里的面料，使用聚酯(PET)复丝加工丝(纤度为22dtex)、经纱密度为262根/25.4mm、纬纱密度为148根/25.4mm的平纹织物(单位面积重量为32g/m2)，按照成为表2中所示的绗缝面积的方式加有线迹。结果也一并示于表2中。表2中，实施例2的无纺布是将单位面积重量为20g/m2的纺粘无纺布放入面料内而缝制的例子。
(比较例1)
除了使用市售的粒棉作为填塞物以外，与实施例1同样地进行实验。
(比较例2)
除了使用市售的羽绒作为填塞物以外，与实施例1同样地进行实验。
(比较例3)
除了使用市售的树脂棉作为填塞物以外，与实施例1同样地进行实验。
(比较例4)
除了使用卷曲变化率为30％的市售的聚酯(PET)棉作为填塞物以外，与实施例1同样地进行实验。该市售棉为短纤维的开纤棉，但在构成的单纤维中，没有粗度不均。
Figure BDA0001344166620000081
如由表2表明的那样，实施例1～8的膨松感良好，基本没有因洗涤而产生的絮棉的偏移，脱水率和保温性及官能试验也良好。
接着进行保温性的比较实验。该试验使用实施例1和比较例2(羽绒)，将图1中所示的衣料穿着到暖体假人(京都电子工业株式会社制)上，将暖体假人的表面温度设定为40℃，由此时的耗电求出clo值。在测定环境的温度为室温20℃、相对湿度为65％RH下进行。依次计测初期的状态、洗涤并脱水后的状态、湿润状态。将其结果示于图3的图表中。脱水可以假定为衣料整体被雨润湿的状态，湿润可以假定为衣料整体被汗弄湿的状态。舒适温度范围为普通的衣料内机构(PMV，热舒适指标)成为-0.5℃～+0.5℃的范围的大气温度。实施例1的衣料在初期中，与舒适温度范围为1.1℃的差，在脱水中，与舒适温度范围为4.5℃的差，湿润时，与舒适温度范围为2.4℃的差。
由以上获知，实施例1的衣料即使进行洗涤，保温性也没有变化，用水润湿时及出汗时的保温性比比较例2(羽绒)优异。因此，确认了实施例1的衣料也耐受恶劣天候，对于剧烈运动也适合。
接着，比较干燥速度。使用实施例1和比较例2(羽绒)，将图1中所示的衣料的初期、刚洗涤后、1小时后、2小时后的质量变化示于图4中。如由图4表明的那样，确认了实施例1的衣料刚洗涤后的水分率低，干燥速度也快。这表示脱水性和即使被雨润湿干得也快，确认了能够容易打理，即使润湿身体也不会发冷。
产业上的可利用性
本发明的衣料除了适合于在登山、滑雪、跑步、步行、自行车运动、登山、网球等运动中穿着的填絮衣料以外，还适合于工作穿或一般的防寒穿。
符号的说明
1 衣料
2a、2b 绗缝线迹

Claims (9)

1.一种衣料，其特征在于，其是在面料内包含絮棉、且存在绗缝线迹的衣料，
所述絮棉是纤维截面的外周形状为圆状的聚酯短纤维棉，在表面固附有平滑剂，呈开放纤维结构，
构成所述絮棉的各构成纤维具有不规则纤维直径，所述不规则纤维直径是在观察1根纤维侧面时的直径的最大与最小的差为2～20μm，
所述絮棉的每单位面积的填充量为50～500g/m2，
所述聚酯短纤维棉的卷曲数为2～9个/2.5cm，
所述絮棉按照JIS L 1015化学纤维长度试验方法、通过下述的计算式评价卷曲率时，卷曲变化率为25％以下，
卷曲变化率＝(F-E)/E×100
E：填充前的卷曲数，单位为个/2.5cm，
F：填充后的卷曲数，单位为个/2.5cm。
2.根据权利要求1所述的衣料，其中，由所述绗缝线迹包围的面积为3～800cm2。
3.根据权利要求1所述的衣料，其中，所述聚酯短纤维棉为中空纤维。
4.根据权利要求1所述的衣料，其中，通过所述绗缝线迹的存在，所述絮棉的至少一部分被固定在面料上。
5.根据权利要求1所述的衣料，其中，所述聚酯短纤维棉的纤度为1.1～5.5dtex。
6.根据权利要求1所述的衣料，其中，所述聚酯短纤维棉的纤维长为20～120mm。
7.根据权利要求3所述的衣料，其中，所述聚酯短纤维棉的中空率为10～50％。
8.根据权利要求1所述的衣料，其中，所述衣料进一步将无纺布与所述絮棉一起配置在面料内。
9.根据权利要求1所述的衣料，其中，所述衣料的保温性clo值为2.00以上。
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