CN106418848A - Body type classification method for customizing shirts - Google Patents
Body type classification method for customizing shirts Download PDFInfo
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- CN106418848A CN106418848A CN201610634301.9A CN201610634301A CN106418848A CN 106418848 A CN106418848 A CN 106418848A CN 201610634301 A CN201610634301 A CN 201610634301A CN 106418848 A CN106418848 A CN 106418848A
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A41—WEARING APPAREL
- A41H—APPLIANCES OR METHODS FOR MAKING CLOTHES, e.g. FOR DRESS-MAKING OR FOR TAILORING, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- A41H1/00—Measuring aids or methods
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- Outer Garments And Coats (AREA)
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Abstract
The invention discloses a body type classification method for customizing shirts. The method is characterized in that linear parameter variation is performed on various part points of the structural sample pieces of a target shirt style, the boundary of the distortion of the parts after the variation is found out, the sample pieces are modified, the parameter rules of the variation of the various parts of the sample pieces are obtained again according to modified data, network combination is performed on the part parameter rules to build the parameter rules of the sample piece variation of the shirt, and the body types are classified according to different parameter rules. The method has the advantages that a large amount of modification time caused by the fact that sample pieces distort due to a garment customizing company uses the single parameter rule to correspond to different body types is reduced, and the sample pieces can be generated accurately and fast.
Description
Technical field
The present invention relates to technical field of costume design, specifically, be related specifically to a kind of customized for men's shirt
Somatotype method.
Background technology
Current buman body type classification is all based on big data statistic analysis out, easily covers " the spy between monomer
Property ", these characteristics include squaring one's shoulders, hunchback and bulging etc.For custom made clothing, then need some " characteristic " of client
In considering completely, however the build type that separates of national standard be all the uniform linear change of each dimension out.So
And human figure otherness is bigger, it is impossible to according to standardization growth, therefore once build exceedes set scope, based on
When certain clothes fashion carries out becoming version, these " characteristic " factors can cause print to be distorted, then need again according to client
Size adjusting print.These somatotypes losing shape still data class standard build from the point of view of data analysis, but from print knot
But another kind of build is belonged to from the point of view of structure.
Additionally, due to the difference of style, the fit redundancy of each style is also different, can modify " characteristic "
Scope is also different, so needing to revert to style self, by " characteristic " factors quantization of some human body, current dependence
Data analysis somatotype method out cannot meet the demand.
Content of the invention
Present invention aims to deficiency of the prior art, a kind of body customized for men's shirt is provided
Type sorting technique, this somatotype method combines multiple key elements such as clothes fashion, sample structure, buman body type and spot size
To the method carrying out somatotype.This sorting technique, for custom made clothing, can really realize clothes MTMization and clothes paper
Sample generates intellectuality.
Technical problem solved by the invention can realize by the following technical solutions:
A kind of somatotype method customized for men's shirt, comprises the steps:
1) clicked through the Parameters variation of line linearity by each position of the structure print to target men's shirt style, find out change
The border that rear print is distorted;It comprises the following steps that:
A. completing element task, described element task includes design men's shirt patterns or mother matrix, and sets print change
The parameter rule changed;
B. extract the critical specification position that men's shirt makes, and determine that each closes key gauge based on substantial amounts of anthropometric data
The in esse maximum in lattice position, then each key position amount is increased to maximum according to certain shelves difference, finally will be each
The serial shelves difference permutation and combination at position sets up size table;
C. according to the size table set up and parameter rule, print is changed, finds out the change each position of print out and send out
The border of raw distortion.
2) print producing distortion is modified, according to the parameter rule of the print change that the data of modification must make new advances again
Then;It comprises the following steps that:
D. the distortion print generating change carries out print modification, records the data of each position modification;
The parameter rule at each position that e. again must make new advances according to the data of modification;
F. the parameter rule combination at new each position is set up the parameter rule of new men's shirt print change.
3) difference of foundation parameter rule is by somatotype, and it comprises the following steps that:
G. different parameter rules is determined corresponding different building shape;
H. the median taking each position to new somatotype sets up men's shirt customized Special body pattern frame, and makes
Ready-made clothes is become to carry out surveying experience card.
Compared with prior art, beneficial effects of the present invention is as follows:
The present invention can be according to " characteristic " factors quantization of some human body, to becoming version sample structure out and size
Change in large quantities, again draw change version rule according to modification data, and according to the different re-separation builds of parameter rule.
This somatotype method combines the many factors such as clothes fashion, sample structure, buman body type and spot size and carries out build and divide
Class.It is for custom made clothing, can really realize that clothes MTMization and pattern tissue generate intellectuality.
Brief description
The schematic diagram men's shirt style that Fig. 1 is of the present invention makes one of constructed prototype.
The schematic diagram men's shirt style that Fig. 2 is of the present invention makes the two of constructed prototype.
The schematic diagram men's shirt style that Fig. 3 is of the present invention makes the three of constructed prototype.
The schematic diagram men's shirt style that Fig. 4 is of the present invention makes the four of constructed prototype.
The schematic diagram men's shirt style that Fig. 5 is of the present invention makes the five of constructed prototype.
Fig. 6 is the flow chart of somatotype method of the present invention.
Detailed description of the invention
For make the present invention realize technological means, creation characteristic, reach purpose and be easy to understand with effect, below in conjunction with
Detailed description of the invention, is expanded on further the present invention.
Seeing Fig. 6, a kind of somatotype method customized for men's shirt of the present invention, its step is as follows:
1st, element task is completed
1) the men's shirt style according to needed for client makes constructed prototype, as shown in Figures 1 to 5.
Model, typically with collar as standard of size, is carried out putting code work, releases from 37cm-44cm 8 totally numbers by men's shirt
Type.
2) the underlying parameter rule of print change is set up.
3) extract men's shirt and be made to critical specification position, and set up size table.
General clothes critical specification position choose main portions required when depending on structure drawing.For men's shirt
The basic position on the basis of each V-neck V is enclosed of speech, determines that chest measurement, shoulder breadth and waistline are critical specification position, i.e. somatotype index
Parameter.
Choosing model (i.e. collar 40cm) in the middle of men's shirt is research object, and each position deducts the corresponding net body chi of loose measure
Very little, respectively collar 39cm, chest measurement encloses 96cm, shoulder breadth 44cm and waistline 87cm.
According to substantial amounts of human body net body 3 d measurement data analyze, when finding out collar 39cm, chest measurement, shoulder breadth and waistline based on
Maximum existing for present situation, i.e. Bmax=108cm, Sma=45cmx and Wmax=103cm, and draw the difference at three positions
Amount, respectively chest measurement 12cm, shoulder breadth 1cm and waistline 16cm.
The foundation of size table:Set specification position all increases according to certain shelves difference or reduces sets up corresponding chi
Code code.
Chest measurement:It is stepped up maximum according to 1cm shelves difference, raw 12 numerical value of common property.
Waistline:It is stepped up maximum according to 1cm shelves difference, raw 16 numerical value of common property.
Shoulder breadth:It is stepped up maximum according to 0.5cm shelves difference, raw 2 numerical value of common property.
By three groups of value arrangements combinations, common property bears 12*16*2=384 group human dimension, and sets up size table.
Determine the abnormal print producing
The underlying parameter rule changing according to print, changes to patterns, determines what 384 groups of human dimensions produced
The print being distorted in print.So-called distortion occurs that obvious flex point or not smoother occur in lines exactly, and structure occurs
Change.
In 384 prints, waistline increments be more than 8cm, at waist joint produce salient point, and with the more big convex gesture of increments more
Substantially.
Chest measurement increments is at 8cm-12cm, and waistline increments is when 0-4cm, and owing to chest waist difference is excessive, side seam line is three
Horn shape does not meets clothing and requires.
The modification of abnormal print
In 384 groups of data, waistline increments reaches 8cm, and producing salient point at anter waist joint needs to carry out print modification.
Salient point, when 8cm-10cm, need to be eliminated by waistline increments, and the amount of elimination saves width, the province of reduction by reducing rear panel
Wide amount is equal with the amount eliminating.
Waistline increments is when 11cm-13cm, and the convex gesture at waist joint is more and more obvious, obviously in bulging in reflection to build
Body, is more than back panel dimension for bulging body general anter waist size, therefore transfers on anter by the portion size amount of rear panel,
And front and rear panel side seam line shape keeps similar as far as possible.
The provincial highway of the rear panel of basis print, when 14cm-16cm, is first deleted, is saved out at anter waist simultaneously by waistline increments
Cutting province's width amount, convex further according to the print changing out will definitely the size of rear panel be transferred on anter, and front and rear panel latasuture is linear
Shape keeps similar as far as possible.
Chest measurement increments is at 8cm-12cm, when the increments of waistline only has 0cm-4cm, owing to chest waist difference is excessive, rear panel
Side seam line is obvious triangular shape, increases rear panel waist point size by suitable, weakens triangle form, increases rear panel simultaneously and saves
Width, keeps waist size constant.
Clothing is long:Chest convex body anter clothing length is added in more than pereonite line, and general dosage is at 0.5-1.2cm.
Bulging body clothing length is added in the bottom, and waistline increments is when 8cm-10cm, and clothing length increases 2cm-3cm, at 11cm-13cm
When, clothing length increases 3cm-4cm, and when 14cm-16cm, clothing length increases 4cm-5cm.
Based on modification data, determine new parameter rule.
Set up the new parameter rule at waistline position
By waistline increments in 384 groups in the range of 8cm-16cm, each increments recorded before and after piece waist point
Average with saving wide modification data, and list table 1.
Waistline increments | 203 variable quantities | 507 variable quantities | Save wide variable quantity |
8 | -0.16 | -0.16 | -0.32 |
9 | -0.20 | -0.18 | -0.38 |
10 | -0.22 | -0.20 | -0.42 |
11 | +0.9 | -0.9 | 0 |
12 | +0.98 | -0.98 | 0 |
13 | +1.1 | -1.1 | 0 |
14 | +1.75 | -1.75 | 0 |
15 | +1.88 | -1.88 | 0 |
16 | +2 | -2 | 0 |
Table 1:Waistline each point variable quantity
By the percentage of the variable quantity of each point in table 1/waistline increments=each point, as shown in table 2.
Waistline increments | 203 change percentages | 507 change percentages | Save width change percentage |
8 | -2% | -2% | -4% |
9 | -2.2% | -2 | -4.2% |
10 | -2.2% | -1.8% | -4% |
11 | + 8.2% | -8.2% | 0 |
12 | + 8.16% | -8.16% | 0 |
13 | + 8.46% | -8.46% | 0 |
14 | + 12.5% | -12.5% | 0 |
15 | + 12.53% | -12.53% | 0 |
16 | + 12.5% | -12.5% | 0 |
Table 2:The change percentage of waistline each point
Draw the change percentage of each point according to table 2, can again draw the change percentage of before and after's print waist point.Waist
Enclosing increments when 8cm-10cm, 203 change percentages new with 507 are 25%-2%=23%, and provincial highway 2
Percentage is 4%/2=2%.When 11cm-12cm, the change percentage of 203 is 25%+8.3%=33.3%, and 507
The percentage of point is 25%-8.3%=16.7%.When 14cm-16cm, 203 new percentages are 25%+12.5%=
37.5%, 507 is then 25%-12.5%=12.5%.124 equal with 203 point value, opposite sign.
The anter clothing length causing because of convex waist lengthens, and is also added in the change rule of waistline anter about the point of clothing length,
During 8cm-10cm, clothing length typically lengthens 2cm-3cm, the then percentage of the long point of clothing i.e. 25%-30% in the range of 2/8-3/10,
Desirable median 27.5%.At 11cm-12cm and 14cm-16cm between the two, the percentage of clothing length in like manner can obtain.
Set up the new parameter rule at chest measurement position
Chest measurement increments 8cm-12cm and waistline increments at 0cm-3cm when, owing to chest waist difference causes too greatly rear panel side
Suture becomes triangle state, for weakening triangle state, need to increase rear panel waist point size, increases rear panel simultaneously and saves the overall waist of money holding
Enclose consistent size.Again the change percentage calculating rear panel waist point is consistent with the mode of (1).
Cause because chest is convex anter clothing length to lengthen, then need to be added in above pereonite line, by increasing point the 204th, the 206th, 207 and 210,
And the point on another anter the 102nd, the 106th, the X-direction value of 107 and 109 reach clothing length and lengthen, and the long amount of elongation of clothing exists
In 0.5cm-1.2cm.General chest measurement increments reaches 5cm and is accomplished by suitably lengthening long about the 0.5cm of front clothing, and corresponding with chest
Enclosing increments to get over overcoat length and lengthen too, its percentage is basic just 10%.
The parameter rule of BICEP, also in chest measurement, only need to meet the muffs with clothing of the muffs camber line length on sleeve=front and back
Camber line length+eat gesture amount (1.2cm), can be released the change rule of BICEP by this formula.
Set up the new parameter rule at shoulder breadth and hip circumference position
The shoulder breadth residual quantity of boy student typically causes distortion at about 1cm substantially without because of shoulder breadth amount, so change rule is not
Becoming, hip circumference is with shoulder breadth in like manner.
The different somatotypes releasing men's shirt according to parameter rule
According to waistline parameter rule, waistline increments can be divided into 4 classes, respectively W1 at 0cm-16cm:0cm-7cm;W2:
8cm-10cm;W3:11cm-13cm;W4:14cm-16cm.
According to chest measurement parameter rule, chest measurement increments can be divided into 4 classes, respectively B1 at 5cm-12cm:0cm-4cm;B2:
5cm-7cm;B3:8cm-10cm;B4:11cm-12cm.
The somatotype combination of network being released above-mentioned chest measurement and waistline, sets up the somatotype of men's shirt, such as table 3 institute
Show.
Table 3:Men's shirt somatotype table
Set up men's shirt customized Special body pattern frame
Take in table 3 the 16 each spot size intermediate values of every idiotype (except standard body), utilize oakum material, tape measure and cotton
Set up men's shirt customized Special body pattern frame making ready-made clothes Deng material parcel people's platform, carry out surveying and experience card.
By meeting the ready-made clothes of 16 kinds of build people's platforms, change out by corresponding parameter rule and make ready-made clothes, carrying out
Survey and experience card, and expert estimation is by feedback modification corresponding change rule.
The general principle of the present invention and principal character and advantages of the present invention have more than been shown and described.The technology of the industry
Personnel are it should be appreciated that the present invention is not restricted to the described embodiments, and the simply explanation described in above-described embodiment and specification is originally
The principle of invention, without departing from the spirit and scope of the present invention, the present invention also has various changes and modifications, and these become
Change and improvement both falls within scope of the claimed invention.Claimed scope by appending claims and
Equivalent defines.
Claims (4)
1. one kind is used for the customized somatotype method of men's shirt, it is characterised in that comprise the steps:
1) clicked through the Parameters variation of line linearity by each position of the structure print to target men's shirt style, find out sample after change
The border that piece is distorted;
2) print producing distortion is modified, according to the parameter rule of the print change that the data of modification must make new advances again;
3) difference of foundation parameter rule is by somatotype.
2. the somatotype method customized for men's shirt according to claim 1, it is characterised in that described step
1) comprise the steps:
A. completing element task, described element task includes design men's shirt patterns or mother matrix, and sets print change
Underlying parameter rule;
B. extract the critical specification position that men's shirt makes, and determine each critical specification portion based on substantial amounts of anthropometric data
The in esse maximum in position, then each key position amount is increased to maximum according to certain shelves difference, finally by each position
Serial shelves difference permutation and combination set up size table;
C. according to the size table set up and underlying parameter rule, print is changed, finds out the change each position of print out and send out
The border of raw distortion.
3. the somatotype method customized for men's shirt according to claim 1, it is characterised in that described step
2) comprise the steps:
D. the distortion print generating change carries out print modification, records the data of each position modification;
The parameter rule at each position that e. again must make new advances according to the data of modification;
F. the parameter rule combination at new each position is set up the parameter rule of new men's shirt print change.
4. the somatotype method customized for men's shirt according to claim 1, it is characterised in that described step
3) comprise the steps:
G. different parameter rules is determined corresponding different building shape;
H. the median taking each position to new somatotype sets up men's shirt customized Special body pattern frame, and makes ready-made clothes
Carry out surveying and experience card.
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Cited By (3)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
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CN107784078A (en) * | 2017-09-27 | 2018-03-09 | 圣凯诺服饰有限公司 | A kind of industrialized custom made garments body-measure data consolidation analysis method and analysis system |
CN109409228A (en) * | 2018-09-25 | 2019-03-01 | 湖南省忘不了服饰有限公司 | The human somatotype recognition methods based on Shape context suitable for custom made clothing |
CN113158272A (en) * | 2021-03-30 | 2021-07-23 | 江苏云道信息技术有限公司 | Automatic printing method and system for personalized clothing customization |
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CN86200050U (en) * | 1986-01-10 | 1987-05-13 | 桂运金 | Ajustable stencil for quick dressmaking |
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Cited By (3)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
CN107784078A (en) * | 2017-09-27 | 2018-03-09 | 圣凯诺服饰有限公司 | A kind of industrialized custom made garments body-measure data consolidation analysis method and analysis system |
CN109409228A (en) * | 2018-09-25 | 2019-03-01 | 湖南省忘不了服饰有限公司 | The human somatotype recognition methods based on Shape context suitable for custom made clothing |
CN113158272A (en) * | 2021-03-30 | 2021-07-23 | 江苏云道信息技术有限公司 | Automatic printing method and system for personalized clothing customization |
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