The production method and dress materials of single side weft-knitting stamp compound clothing material
Technical field
The present invention relates to field of textiles, more particularly to a kind of production method and print of single side weft-knitting stamp compound clothing material
Flower compound clothing material.
Background technology
1:Product development background.
A:In clothes three elements:In fabric, style, color, although designer can select fabric, color and design money
Formula, but in general, designer is not very strong to the control property of fabric (including auxiliary material) details, and many quality details are also mainly
Supplier designs, so reduce designer's pursuit personalized to clothes.In addition apparel construction and process details, in clothes
Factory owner will determine by version teacher and technologist, the control this reduces designer to whole apparel quality.Therefore, clothes knot is simplified
Structure, designer is respected to fabric (main dress materials) and the personalized designs of color flower pattern, can greatly increase designer couple
The accurate control of personalized designs.The creativeness for playing designer is the successful necessary condition of a clothes.Just because of this, cloth
Material company thinks that develop the performances such as a class set fabric, lining, adhesive lining again is in the Novel decorating compound clothing material of one
It is very necessary.
B:In fact, early between 2004-2007, all there is the adhesive lining of stamp in Europe and Japanese market, in Chinese city
Also there are many printed adhesive linings to follow the wind on field.For example Wuxi Dong spins (Japanese) company and just applied for that a kind of printed adhesive lining was special
Profit.But printed adhesive lining at that time is substantially passes through stamp with adhesive lining embryo cloth (or somewhat changing thread count)
(at that time also be mainly the either screen printing of traditional cylinder) and conventional powder point or double-dot coating process combination and the one kind produced
Differential adhesive lining kind.It or a kind of differentiated products of adhesive lining, without departing from adhesive lining relative to garment material and
The performance difference of lining, it is local can only to be mainly used in the clothes that jean or some women's dresses needs are modified.It is not real
In view of the requirement of fabric and lining to intensity, wearability, anti-pilling, color fastness, and service life whole enough is resistance to
Degree of washing, resistance to whole boiling hot property.So by a burst of popular, garment processing plant is found that the performance shortcomings of this product soon, and very
Just eliminated soon by market, the mainstream product in the market can not be turned into.
2:The limitation (spinning patent technique similar products in the east containing day) of early stage Conventional decal lining:
All it is that weft density is adjusted as embryo cloth or slightly using conventional adhesive lining fabric.
Product is all the selected flower pattern of cloth factory, and designer can only passively select, limited right to choose, the design that is far from being power
Limit.
For product yarn institutional framework all or than relatively soft, pilling silk performance is excessively poor, can not large area use
Substitute lining function.
Or common adhesive lining coating process combination, the dry water-wash test of more than 20 times can not be subjected to, it is impossible to ensure whole
Not degumming bubble problem during taking.
Its production procedure is substantially as follows:
Fabric weaving (is substantially water spray plain weave embryo cloth) -- and overflow refinery practice-drying stamp pre-treatment-stamp is (at that time
Be substantially ROTARY SCREAM PRINTING or screen printing, thermal transfer printing in China also without the big production of scale so that day east spin it is special
Description in profit to thermal transfer printing technique has many common-sense mistakes) -- the post processing-painting such as stamp fixation washing drying and shaping
Layer (being substantially common double-dot coating or powder point coating) -- finished product.Long flow path is characterized in, energy consumption is big, and waste water and gas is more,
Pollution weight, production cycle length.
3:The original intention and starting point of stamp compound clothing material exploitation.
First, the clothes composite needed in order to facilitate designer's design personalized fabric.It is namely convenient that he is selected
The fabric selected carries out secondary creation, and this creation is carried out in clothes factory, is controlled by designer, including final multiple
The many-sides such as the structure combination of condensation material, quality, color flower pattern.
Secondly, apparel construction can be simplified, convenient processing, design efficiency and production efficiency is improved, reduce manufacturing procedure, subtract
Few dependence of the apparel quality to high-quality version teacher and knack worker, so as to reduce cost and shorten the process-cycle.With bonding
It is (compound) to replace suture, with the composite instant moulding of the stamp composite of the embryo cloth of differing texture performance and fabric.With design
The pattern flower pattern of teacher's design (or selected) replaces the decoration and barrier property of lining.Created and to clothes with meeting that designer is personalized
The control power of dress is that whole starting points go to design the material of this kind of Novel decorating compound clothing material and structure and production technology stream
Journey.
4:This kind of prerequisite performance requirement of Novel decorating compound clothing material:
The decoration function of printed fabric.The flower pattern that stamp needs can be designed or selected by designer.
The color fastness that fabric and lining should have, wearability, anti-pilling is anti-to hook silk performance, resists a fragility.
Enough bonding intensities and sufficient washable, resistance to whole boiling hot performance.
Smooth, the barrier property of lining.
The good compatibility of cloth.
Meet clean manufacturing, environmental protection and energy saving.The new process for cleanly preparing technology of applicating energy-saving environmental protection short route.
The content of the invention
The main object of the present invention is to provide a kind of production method of single side weft-knitting stamp compound clothing material, it is intended to solves
Designer can only passively select stamp compound clothing material, cloth soft texture, pilling silk, slip resistance can it is excessively poor with
And the problem of can not repeatedly dry-cleaning.
To achieve these goals, the present invention provides a kind of production method of single side weft-knitting stamp compound clothing material, bag
Include following steps:
A, preshrunk:Preshrunk processing is carried out to embryo cloth in preshrinking device;
B, shape:Configure sizing aids in sizing padding machine, then by the embryo cloth after preshrunk pad in sizing aids and
Heat treatment is carried out under one first preset temperature;
C, heat transfer print:Embryo cloth after sizing and transfer paper are put into heat transfer machine, are warming up to 220-240 °, speed sets
It is scheduled on 18-24 ms/min and carries out transfer processing;Wherein, the transfer paper is processed by following steps forms:
C1, selected dyestuff is diluted to liquid condition with alcohol;
C2, the dyestuff printed on special paper roll by cylinder transfer;
Dried under c3, low temperature.
D, gluing:Embryo cloth after heat transfer print is put into two point lining coating machine, first carries out slurry point coating processing, then carry out
Dusting coating is processed, wherein, the raw material of the slurry point coating is polyaminoester emulsion, and the raw material of dusting coating is copolyamide, glue
Dot density is 60-130 points/square centimeter.
Preferably, the embryo cloth is double side weft knitting class embryo cloth, also includes weaving double side weft knitting class embryo cloth before the step A
The step of, its weaving process is specially:It is raw material to select microgrid low elastic polyester filament 15D-40D;Then put down from two-sided circular knitting machine
Line single jersey tissue, with 26-34 inch diameters, the type weaving of the close 33-44 pins/inch of pin.
Preferably, the preshrinking device is overflow cylinder, and the preshrinking process in the step A is:The two-sided circle that will have been weaved
Machine fabric is put into the preshrunk processing auxiliary agent of overflow cylinder, and preshrunk processing auxiliary agent then is warming up into the second preset temperature, led to
Crossing while preshrunk processing auxiliary agent removes greasy dirt in embryo cloth makes fabric shrink at high temperature.
Preferably, the first preset temperature in the step B is 180-210 °, and the composition of the sizing aids is to include:
Silicone oil:8-20 g/l;Fluorine class water repellent:4-10 g/l;Glacial acetic acid:0.5-1 g/l, remaining is water.
Preferably, the embryo cloth is pure warp knit class embryo cloth, and the step for weaving pure warp knit class embryo cloth is also included before the step A
Suddenly, its weaving process is specially:It is raw material to select 20D-30D FDY polyester filaments;Then select 28-36 pins double on tricot machine
Comb warp knit.
Preferably, the preshrinking device is overflow cylinder, and the preshrinking process in the step A is:The embryo cloth weaved is put
Enter rinsing of being deoiled in overflow cylinder.
Preferably, the first preset temperature in the step B is 180-210 °, and the composition of the sizing aids is to include:
Silicone oil:8-20 g/l;Fluorine class water repellent:4-10 g/l;Glacial acetic acid:0.5-1 g/l, remaining is water.
Preferably, the embryo cloth is warp knit inlaid thread class embryo cloth, also includes weaving warp knit inlaid thread class embryo cloth before the step A
The step of, its weaving process is specially:Selection polyester filament FDY20D-40D is warp thread raw material, polyester filament DTY 30D-
75D is weft yarn raw material;Then from karr Meyer RS or HKS double fluid section warp knit inlaid thread machine, the close 24-32 pins/inch of pin,
The type of 168-175 inches opens double width, is made from through plain weave, and two comb section skies wear weaving.
Preferably, the preshrinking device is rapid steamer, and the preshrinking process in the step A is:The fabric weaved is existed
Enter rapid steamer under relaxed state;Then cloth cover is heated to 100-150 ° by steam in machine.
Preferably, the first preset temperature in the step B is 170-200 °, and the composition of the sizing aids is to include:
Silicone oil:8-25 g/l;Fluorine class water repellent:6-15 g/l;Glacial acetic acid:0.5-1 g/l, remaining is water.
Preferably, the embryo cloth is single side weft-knitting class embryo cloth, also includes weaving single side weft-knitting class embryo cloth before the step A
The step of, its weaving process is specially:It is raw material to select microgrid low elastic polyester filament 15D-40D;Then put down from one side circular knitting machine
Line single jersey tissue, with 26-34 inch diameters, the type weaving of the close 33-44 pins/inch of pin.
Preferably, the preshrinking device is overflow cylinder, and the preshrinking process in the step A is:The one side weaved is justified
Machine fabric is put into the preshrunk processing auxiliary agent of overflow cylinder, and preshrunk processing auxiliary agent then is warming up into the second preset temperature, led to
Crossing while preshrunk processing auxiliary agent removes greasy dirt in embryo cloth makes fabric shrink at high temperature.
Preferably, the first preset temperature in the step B is 180-210 °, and the composition of the sizing aids is to include:
Silicone oil:8-20 g/l;Fluorine class water repellent:4-10 g/l;Glacial acetic acid:0.5-1 g/l, remaining is water.
Preferably, the transfer paper is calico paper or the solid color paper without decalcomania, and the step C is realized calico paper
On pattern transfer print in embryo cloth, or realize by solid color paper color transfer print in embryo cloth.
Preferably, the step of Acceptance Test is also included after the step D:Sampled from finished product;Sampling is put into test machine
It is interior, after test machine is warming up into 130 °, applies the pressure of 2.5 Kilograms Per Square Meters to sampling, continue 15 seconds;Judge by above-mentioned
Whether the sampling after test meets following condition:Initial adhesion fastness is more than preset value, and machine washing fastness to washing is more than at 40 DEG C of water temperature
25 times.
Preferably, the step of dehydration and open-width are also included between the step A and step B.
In addition, the present invention also provides a kind of stamp compound clothing material produced by aforementioned production method.
The invention has the advantages that:
The stamp compound clothing material produced by the inventive method meets following performance:
The decoration function of printed fabric.The flower pattern (color) that stamp needs can be designed or selected by designer;
The color fastness that fabric and lining should have, wearability, anti-pilling is anti-to hook silk performance, resists a fragility;
Enough bonding intensities and sufficient washable, resistance to whole boiling hot performance;
Smooth, the barrier property of lining;
The good compatibility of cloth;
Meet clean manufacturing, environmental protection and energy saving.The new process for cleanly preparing technology of applicating energy-saving environmental protection short route.
Brief description of the drawings
Fig. 1 is the production method flow chart of stamp compound clothing material first embodiment of the present invention.
Fig. 2 is the production method flow of stamp compound clothing material second embodiment of the present invention.
Fig. 3 is the production method flow of stamp compound clothing material 3rd embodiment of the present invention.
Fig. 4 is the production method flow of stamp compound clothing material fourth embodiment of the present invention.
Embodiment
It should be appreciated that specific embodiment described herein is used only for explaining the present invention, it is not intended to limit the present invention.
The present invention provides a kind of production method of single side weft-knitting stamp compound clothing material, comprises the following steps:
A, preshrunk:Preshrunk processing is carried out to embryo cloth in preshrinking device;
B, shape:Configure sizing aids in sizing padding machine, then by the embryo cloth after preshrunk pad in sizing aids and
Heat treatment is carried out under first preset temperature of setting;
C, heat transfer print:Embryo cloth after sizing and transfer paper are put into heat transfer machine, are warming up to 220-240 °, speed sets
It is scheduled on 18-24 ms/min and carries out transfer processing;Wherein, the transfer paper is processed by following steps forms:C1, by selected dyestuff
Liquid condition is diluted to alcohol;C2, the dyestuff shifted on special paper roll by cylinder;Dried under c3, low temperature.
Wherein, the transfer paper can be the solid color paper that calico paper can also be pattern-free.Print institute is shifted by calico paper
Stamp is stated in embryo cloth, processes the cloth with decalcomania;And the color is printed by the solid color paper transfer of pattern-free and existed
In embryo cloth, the dyeing processing to the embryo cloth is realized, so as to be processed into colored cloth.
D, gluing:Embryo cloth after heat transfer print is put into two point lining coating machine, first carries out slurry point coating, then carry out dusting
The coating processing of unnecessary rubber powder is sucked, wherein, the raw material of the slurry point coating is polyaminoester emulsion, and the raw material of dusting coating is common
Polyamide, glue point density are 60-130 points/square centimeter.
With reference to four current class Novel decorating compound clothing materials, as embodiment, the present invention will be described.This
Invention is not limited to lifted example, and following reference example is provided based on this inventive technique.
Embodiment one:Double side weft knitting class product.
Positioned according to product purpose and performance, this kind of Printing should possess good anti pilling wearability, as silk
The fluffy feel of flexible smooth, enough four-side elastics, bonding intensity, and splendid washability.In view of this kind of product energy
Enough substitute lining and cloth, in addition it is compound after can make the front of printed fabric.This kind of product finished product square grammes per square metre optimum range exists
40-85 grams/m, yarn selects microgrid low elastic polyester filament 15-40D, it is contemplated that the cloth cover flatness requirement that stamp needs, typically
From two-sided circular knitting machine plain weave single jersey tissue, 26-34 inch diameters, the type weaving of the close 34-44 pins/inch of pin.
Specifically, production method such as figure for double side weft knitting class single side weft-knitting stamp compound clothing material in the present embodiment
Shown in 1, comprise the following steps:
S101:Weave double side weft knitting class embryo cloth.
The weaving process of this kind of double side weft knitting class embryo cloth is specially:It is raw material to select microgrid low elastic polyester filament 15-40D;
Then two-sided circular knitting machine plain weave single jersey tissue is selected, with 26-34 inch diameters, the type weaving of the close 33-44 pins/inch of pin.Yu Ben
In embodiment, preferred low elastic polyester filament 20D/24F microgrids or without grenadine press plain weave single jersey on 40 pin, 30 inches of two-sided circular knitting machines
Weave.
S102:Preshrunk processing is carried out to embryo cloth in preshrinking device.
In the present embodiment, the two-sided circular knitting machine fabric weaved is put into the preshrunk processing auxiliary agent of overflow cylinder, then
Preshrunk processing auxiliary agent is warming up to the second preset temperature, being handled by the preshrunk while auxiliary agent removes greasy dirt in embryo cloth makes
Fabric shrinks at high temperature.The embryo cloth carries out preshrunk oil removing arrangement in overflow cylinder, to remove yarn sheet by chemical assistant
Terylene shrinks at high temperature while body and the dirty impurity brought during weaving cotton cloth, in the fabric produces the bullet that finished product needs
Property, form fine and close and fluffy soft feel.
S103:Embryo cloth after preshrunk is dehydrated.
The embryo cloth of the expanded oil removing of preshrunk in dye vat is put into dewaterer dehydration, dried.
S104:By the embryo cloth open-width after dehydration.
Send the half-dried embryo cloth of rope form after dehydration to scutcher open-width, convenient padding machine following process of shaping.
S105:Configure sizing aids in sizing padding machine, then by the embryo cloth after preshrunk pad in sizing aids and
Heat treatment is carried out under 180-210 °.
Wherein, the composition of the sizing aids is to include:Silicone oil:8-20 g/l;Fluorine class water repellent:4-10 g/l;Ice
Acetic acid:0.5-1 g/l, remaining is water.Polyester fiber form and dimensionally stable are allowed by thermal finalization, product doors width is in 165-172
Centimetre, product square grammes per square metre meets fabric requirement, while add ring in padding machine groove of shaping at 36-44 grams/m
The silicone oil feel modification of guarantor and water repellent, water repellent degree meet requirement of the double-dot coating to cloth cover surface property in 80-95.By
Embryo cloth after above-mentioned heat treatment can be carried out follow-up thermal transfer printing processing.
S106:Embryo cloth after sizing and transfer paper are put into heat transfer machine, are warming up to 220-240 °, speed is set in
18-24 ms/min carries out transfer processing.
Wherein, the transfer paper can be the solid color paper that calico paper can also be pattern-free.It can be shifted by calico paper
The stamp is printed in embryo cloth, processes the cloth with decalcomania;And the dye is printed by the solid color paper transfer of pattern-free
Material realizes the dyeing processing to the embryo cloth, so as to be processed into colored cloth in embryo cloth.
Transfer printing (dyeing) is a kind of Novel decorating technology that developed recently gets up, its special environmental protection and energy saving, technique letter
It is single, without final finishings such as fixation washings.Two-sided circular knitting machine plain weave single jersey tissue why is selected in this implementation, is because two-sided circular knitting machine
The product tissue relative close come is woven, and two-sided tissue can offset yarn moment of torsion, and batching, ride comfort be not good for product.36-
44 pin high density fabric feels are fine and smooth, and yarn is close, can print off the flower pattern of exquisite exquisiteness.Finished product again with fabric it is compound after feel very
It is good, it is preferable with various fabric compatibilities.The more F numbers polyester low stretch wire materials of 15D-40D, are weaved on the highly dense type of 26-34 inches
The embryo cloth gone out, it is adapted to 40-85 grams/m of finished product grammes per square metre requirement, this scope is this Novel decorating compound clothing material
Optimal the grammes per square metre scope.
Transfer paper is to process to be formed using the heat sublimation of disperse dyes, and the processing of the transfer paper comprises the following steps:First
Selected dyestuff is diluted to liquid condition with alcohol;Then it is imprinted on by cylinder transfer on special paper roll;Dried under last low temperature
It is standby into transfer paper.And the calico paper is then after being diluted by the special disperse dyes of selected flower pattern with alcohol, to pass through cylinder
Transfer printing is on special coil paper;Solid color paper without decalcomania is then dilute by selecting the special disperse dyes alcohol of color
After releasing, the dyestuff is shifted on special coil paper by cylinder.
The process environmental protection and energy saving of above-mentioned transfer paper, in addition to consuming a small amount of heat energy drying transfer paper, substantially without three
Useless discharge.The general flower pattern or colour that flower pattern or color can be produced with print works, then allow designer to select,
Design flower pattern or color can be designed by designer, then go plate-making to complete flower pattern (color) sample in kind, allows designer
Reproduction stamp (color) finished product after modification determines.After flower pattern (color) and transfer paper are ready to, by the embryo cloth after sizing with turning
Printing paper is together heated embryo cloth and transfer paper under 220-240 degree and certain pressure by heat transfer machine, point allowed on transfer paper
Dissipate dye sublimation vaporization transfer to be diffused on embryo cloth polyester fiber intimate contact therewith, at this temperature, polyester fiber is connecing
Fiber crystal region all becomes noncrystalline domain substantially in the case of nearly fusing point, and intermolecular gap increases.Now, distillation vaporization, which diffuses through, comes
Dyestuff combined with fiber and spread in fibrous inside noncrystalline domain soon, when fiber recrystallizes after cooling, dyestuff and fiber
Highly stable with reference to obtaining, color fastness can reach more than 4 grades, and the color fastness of fabric requirement is fully achieved.This flower pattern (color)
The process of transfer and common cylinder or PLATE SCREAM PRINTING are entirely different, and it does not need any auxiliary agent to help dye migration to spread, complete
The crystal region of the heat sublimation and polyester fiber of specific disperse dyes when close to fusing point only make use of to be wholly absent entirely, it is intermolecular
Gap is increased to dyestuff and creates condition in fibrous inside diffusion.Certainly, normal setting temperature high temperature and pressure are far above during thermal transfer
Power can all have to the feel and fluffy degree of polyester fiber embryo cloth to be deteriorated to a certain degree, passes through addition in the formula that can be shaped in preceding road
The appropriate feel modification agent such as chemical assistant such as high-quality silicone oil improves, can also by select more soft more fluffy raw material come
Improve.But HTHP can allow embryo cloth closer during transfer printing, there is preferably smooth anti pilling is anti-to hook silk effect, this is exactly
The insoluble problem of common cloth.
In the present embodiment, the transfer paper chosen is entered into swinging cylinder outsourcing press polish woollen blanket formula heat together with embryo cloth to turn
Pad printer, machine temperature are set between 230-240 degree, and speed is set in 18-24 ms/min or so.Make in high moderate pressure
Under, disperse dyes on transfer paper are quickly by the diffusion transfer that distils in embryo cloth.
High temperature and cloth feeding tension force of the double side weft knitting embryo cloth when passing in and out stamp cylinder and stamp can make a width have certain contracting
Small, general 172 centimetres of cloth feedings door width embryo cloth, stamp back door width can be reduced to 154-156 centimetres.The key of weft-knitted stamp be it is noted that
Face tension is uniform when passing in and out stamp cylinder press polish woollen blanket.Because the following double side weft knitting embryo cloth particularly soft of 30D yarns, stamp
When be easily deformed and lose shape, do not select grid striped class flower pattern typically, and be relatively adapted to small design of scattered small flowers and plants or seemingly irregular camouflage color etc.
Pattern.The Printing of this kind of embryo cloth has soft and smooth fine and smooth texture as silk, all fine but well-pressed with the matching of any fabric
Degree is inadequate, is generally not suitable for compound with the fabric at the position such as neckline cuff, is relatively adapted to large area position.Transfering printing process
Relative to cylinder or plain net or ink-jet printed technique, because HTHP has press polish effect to embryo cloth during stamp,
Product anti pilling wearability after stamp is significantly improved.
The dyeing that this caloric transfer printing technology is used for cloth is handled, and it has, and color fastness is high, pollution-free, and color additive consumption is few,
The advantages that energy-conserving and environment-protective.The high moderate pressure that transfer dyeing is applied to cloth simultaneously can also improve cloth surface evenness, reduce yarn
Sliding, reduce hook silk and split, improve wearability and anti-pilling and other effects.
S107:Embryo cloth after heat transfer print is put into two point lining coating machine, first carries out slurry point coating processing, then spread
Powder coating is processed.
In conventional cloth double-dot coating technology, prime cement composition is usually two major class chemical substances.One kind is as the glue of face
PUR, its fusing point is slightly higher than face glue fusing point, and rubber powder size is usually 0-80um or so.The face glue of dusting is typically also
Thermoplasticity rubber powder based on copolyamide, for general particle diameter in 80-170um, its fusing point is slightly less than the thermoplasticity rubber powder of prime cement,
To suck unnecessary rubber powder.Another is the prime cement based on thermosetting pre-polymerization precursor emulsion, in this pre-polymerization precursor emulsion
Particle is very tiny general all in below 0.5um, so his net coating characteristic excessively is very good, can apply out extraordinary point
Type, there is extraordinary coating characteristic.But it, because chemical composition is inconsistent, can form one with face glue between primary coat and face glue
Interface, the presence at this interface can be whole boiling hot to the bonding intensity of textile of the future with fabric after compound, fastness to washing and resistance to steam
Performance produces serious negative effect.
A large amount of compatibilities that the present invention is combined by various thermosetting emulsions with the copolyamide face glue of special formulation are tested,
It is preferred that determining that a kind of polyaminoester emulsion makees prime cement, face glue uses the copolyamide glue of the washable content of monomer of high nylon 12 of low temperature
Powder, it has a temperature relatively low but has the melting range of relative broad range, therefore it also has good low temperature pressing characteristic, with this spy
The interface cohesion that different prime cement is formed is firm, especially washable resistance to whole boiling hot.Fully achieve to this Novel decorating compound dress material
The bonding intensity of material and washable resistance to whole boiling hot performance requirement.
In present embodiment, the raw material of preferably described slurry point coating is polyaminoester emulsion, and the raw material of dusting coating is common
Polyamide, glue point density is 60-130 points/square centimeter, to suck unnecessary rubber powder, because excessive, excessively dilute glue point can be destroyed
The outward appearance of flower pattern makes printed side substantially have an out-of-flatness, glue point it is overstocked it is meticulous can influence bonding intensity and washing fastness, to difference
The compatibility of fabric declines.Coating amount is at 3-4 grams/m after above-mentioned prime cement point urethane cures, and face gel coating amount is in 6-8
Gram/m or so, total coating amount after 8-12 grams/m or so, coating total square of grammes per square metre probably at 50-58 grams/square
Rice.
S108:Embryo cloth after heat transfer print is carried out an acceptance inspection, tested, passes through rear storage.
In the present embodiment, above-mentioned embryo cloth is processed into after finished product, it is necessary to by checking and accepting, testing, and having passed through to be put in storage.Specifically
Operation is as follows:Sampled from every batch of finished product;Sampling is put into test machine, after test machine is warming up into 130 °, sampling applied
The pressure of 2.5 Kilograms Per Square Meters, continue 15 seconds;Judge whether the sampling after test meets following condition:Initial adhesion fastness is big
Fastness to washing of being machine-washed at 20 Ns/5 centimetres, 40 DEG C of water temperature is more than 25 times, meets that above-mentioned test condition can just pass through storage.
Embodiment two:Pure warp knit class product.
Polyester FDY long filament class product has extraordinary cloth cover flatness, woven especially with double combs of 28-36 pins
Thing, and common high-grade women's dress lining.Its raw material can select 20D-30D FDY polyester filaments, in order to take into account the hand of softness
Bonding intensity after sense and coating, yarn F numbers (single fiber radical) are between 24-72.The production method of such product is except specific
Weaving process is different from above-mentioned weft-knitted product outer, and remaining technological process and technical recipe are roughly the same.
Specifically, production method such as Fig. 2 for the present embodiment double side weft knitting class single side weft-knitting stamp compound clothing material
It is shown, comprise the following steps:
S201:Weave pure warp knit class embryo cloth.
The weaving process of this kind of double side weft knitting class embryo cloth is specially:It is raw material to select 20D-30D FDY polyester filaments;So
The double comb warp knits of 28-36 pins are selected on tricot machine afterwards.In present embodiment, preferably 30D/36F or 30D/72F FDY terylene is grown
Silk, tricot machine select 176 inches of boards of the double comb sections of 32 pins to open double width, upper gate width 216-218 cms, and fabric tissue selects flat
Line weave.
S202:Preshrunk processing is carried out to embryo cloth in preshrinking device.
In the present embodiment, the pure warp knit class embryo cloth woven is put into overflow cylinder rinsing of deoiling.FDY is not in warm
Heat shrink is bent to form the characteristic of elasticity in water, and fabric elasticity derives from the changeability of warp knit lasso tissue.If desired
Feel and enhancing bonding intensity are more mixed, can be suitably to fabric Alkali reduction 8-15%.
S203:Embryo cloth after preshrunk is dehydrated.
Embryo cloth after rinsing is put into dewaterer dehydration, dried.
S204:By the embryo cloth open-width after dehydration.
Send the half-dried embryo cloth of rope form after dehydration to scutcher open-width, convenient padding machine following process of shaping.
S205:Configure sizing aids in sizing padding machine, then by the embryo cloth after preshrunk pad in sizing aids and
Heat treatment is carried out under 180-210 °.
Wherein, the composition of the sizing aids is to include:Silicone oil:8-20 g/l;Fluorine class water repellent:4-10 g/l;Ice
Acetic acid:0.5-1 g/l, remaining is water.By the product doors width after the patterning process, product is put down after 152-158 centimetres, sizing
FT-207 focuses on 65-72 grams/m, water repellent degree 80-95.It is further noted that need to starch trimming during sizing to improve warp
Organize into groups the edge-rolling knitted.
S206:Embryo cloth after sizing and transfer paper are put into heat transfer machine, are warming up to 220-240 °, speed is set in
18-24 ms/min carries out thermal transfer printing or dyeing process.
In the present embodiment, the operating method of heat transfer print procedure of processing is identical with above-mentioned first embodiment, herein no longer
It is described in detail.The product can be reduced to 152-154 centimetres by above-mentioned transfer back door width.Warp knit FDY material fabric feels are smooth but compare
Stiffening, skeleton sense is strong, be generally suitable for it is compound with the fabric at the position such as neckline cuff, or suitable for compound with denim fabric,
It can be used for wanting portion.
S107:Embryo cloth after heat transfer print is put into two point lining coating machine, first carries out slurry point coating processing, then spread
Powder coating is processed.
In the present embodiment, the operating method of the glue application step is identical with above-mentioned first embodiment, will not be described in detail herein.It is above-mentioned
Coating amount is at 3-4 grams/m after prime cement point urethane cures, and face gel coating amount is at 6-9 grams/m or so, total coating amount
At 8-13 grams/m or so, total square of grammes per square metre of finished product is at 78-85 grams/m or so.
S208:Embryo cloth after heat transfer print is carried out an acceptance inspection, tested, passes through rear storage.
In the present embodiment, above-mentioned embryo cloth is processed into after finished product, it is necessary to by checking and accepting, testing, and having passed through to be put in storage.Specifically
Operation is as follows:Sampled from every batch of finished product;Sampling is put into test machine, after test machine is warming up into 130 °, sampling applied
The pressure of 2.5 Kilograms Per Square Meters, continue 15 seconds;Judge whether the sampling after test meets following condition:Initial adhesion fastness is big
Fastness to washing of being machine-washed at 15 Ns/5 centimetres, 40 DEG C of water temperature is more than 25 times, meets that above-mentioned test condition can just pass through storage.
Preferably, yarn can be changed to 20D/24F FDY polyester filaments, it is compound with the warp knit stamp for meeting lighter and thinner
The requirement of product.In addition, if also applied using 32 pin, 176 inches of double bar warp knitting machine weavings, it is necessary to suitably increase filling density with improving
The layer back of the body is saturating, product square grammes per square metre of the base fabric square grammes per square metre probably after 40-50 grams/m, coating probably 50-60 grams/it is flat
Square rice.
Embodiment three:Warp knit inlaid thread class product.
Preceding two classes product embryo cloth and usual down jackets Weft Knitted Shell Fabric and traditional warp knit lining are similar, but its cost is high, raw
It is more complicated to produce process, power consumption and discharge are relatively more, but its finished product anti pilling and wearability are very good.In view of anti-pilling and
The balance of wearability and economy, warp knit inlaid thread stamp compound clothing material product is developed again.It with karr Meyer RS or
The double comb section warp knit inlaid thread machine weavings of HKS.The pin of Unit-type sclection 24 to 32 pin types, 168-176 inch types opens double width, from through flat
Weaving, two comb section skies wear weaving.Warp raw material can select polyester filament FDY 20-40D, and weft yarn can select terylene to grow
Silk DTY 30D-75D.Process is weaved cotton cloth in itself without refueling from without finish or few finish yarn, warping and warp knit, and cloth cover is inherently
It is very clean, therefore the energy-conserving and environment-protective technique of more short route can be used completely.Such stamp compound clothing material, after weaving cotton cloth only
Need steam preshrunk processing can directly to shape, eliminate the water consumption consumptions such as general sizing advance dye vat rinsing and dehydration open-width
The processes such as energy consumption is artificial.Thermal transfer printing or dyeing are directly gone after sizing, then double-dot coating.
Specifically, production method such as Fig. 3 for the present embodiment warp knit inlaid thread class single side weft-knitting stamp compound clothing material
It is shown, comprise the following steps:
S301:Weave pure warp knit class embryo cloth.
The weaving process of this kind of double side weft knitting class embryo cloth is specially:It is warp thread former material to select polyester filament FDY 20D-40D
Material, polyester filament DTY 30D-75D are weft yarn raw material;Then from karr Meyer RS or HKS double fluid section warp knit inlaid thread machine,
The close 24-32 pins/inch of pin, the type of 168-176 inches open double width, are made from through plain weave, and two comb section skies wear weaving.Yu Benshi
Apply in mode, it is 24E type warp knit inlaid thread machines that preferably karr Meyer KHS-2-SMUS, pin are close, upper 204-208 centimetres of gate width, is passed through
Flat two comb section skies of tissue are worn, and warp thread selects 20D/24F FDY polyester filaments, can also select 30D/12F-36F FDY terylene
Long filament, weft yarn select 30D/36F DTY or 50D/72F polyester filaments, and upper machine filling density is in 16-25 roots/centimetre weaving.
S302:Embryo cloth is carried out in rapid steamer to evaporate preshrunk processing.
The principle for evaporating preshrunk is to allow fabric to enter rapid steamer in a relaxed state, heats cloth cover by steam in machine and arrives
Between 100-150 degree, polyester DTY elastic filament fiber under heat effect produces bending and shunk, and makes the fluffy softness of cloth cover, and width becomes
It is narrow.This kind evaporates default handling process compared with common overflow kiering, without sewage discharge, is added without any chemical assistant,
Only a small amount of discharge of steam, basic contamination-free release, very energy-conserving and environment-protective.And without the follow-up dehydration open-width of overflow kiering
And the debatching process entered before cylinder, automaticity is high, and fabric quality is more preferable.
S303:Configure sizing aids in sizing padding machine, then by the embryo cloth after preshrunk pad in sizing aids and
Heat treatment is carried out under 170-200 °.
Because micro residual finish can produce more apparent influence to water repellent degree and soft effect on yarn, need to add
The dosage of water repellent and softening agent in big sizing formula.In the present embodiment, the composition of the sizing aids is to include:Silicone oil:8-
25 g/l;Fluorine class water repellent:6-15 g/l;Glacial acetic acid:0.5-1 g/l, remaining is water.Pass through the production after the patterning process
Product square grammes per square metre is at 24-36 grams/m after 152-156 centimetres, sizing for product door width, water repellent degree 60-70.
S304:Embryo cloth after sizing and transfer paper are put into heat transfer machine, are warming up to 220-240 °, speed is set in
18-24 ms/min carries out thermal transfer printing or dyeing process.
In the present embodiment, the operating method of heat transfer print procedure of processing is identical with above-mentioned first embodiment, herein no longer
It is described in detail.The product can be reduced to 152-153 centimetres by above-mentioned stamp processing back door width.The wear-resisting anti pilling of warp knit weft inserted fabric itself
Property it is poor, but the HTHP of thermal transfer printing can produce the close effect of press polish to embryo cloth, and anti-pilling can be significantly improved, add
Such product filling density it is higher, through plain weave make middle FDY warps to easily fluffing hook silk DTY weft yarns parcel wind closer, institute
Though with the anti-pilling of such product not as above two major class products, than common adhesive lining or far better, substantially may be used
To reach the requirement of composite material.
S305:Embryo cloth after heat transfer print is put into two point lining coating machine, first carries out slurry point coating processing, then spread
Powder coating is processed.
In the present embodiment, the operating method of the glue application step is identical with above-mentioned first embodiment, and in, this is no longer described in detail.On
Coating amount is at 3-4 grams/m after stating prime cement point urethane cures, and face gel coating amount is at 6-8 grams/m or so, total coating
Amount is at 8-12 grams/m or so.Total square of grammes per square metre of finished product is at 34-44 grams/m or so.
S306:Embryo cloth after heat transfer print is carried out an acceptance inspection, tested, passes through rear storage.
In the present embodiment, above-mentioned embryo cloth is processed into after finished product, it is necessary to by checking and accepting, testing, and having passed through to be put in storage.Specifically
Operation is as follows:Sampled from every batch of finished product;Sampling is put into test machine, after test machine is warming up into 130 °, sampling applied
The pressure of 2.5 Kilograms Per Square Meters, continue 15 seconds;Judge whether the sampling after test meets following condition:Initial adhesion fastness is big
Fastness to washing of being machine-washed at 25 Ns/5 centimetres, 40 DEG C of water temperature is more than 25 times, meets that above-mentioned test condition can just pass through storage.
Example IV:Single side weft-knitting class product.
Positioned according to product purpose and performance, this kind of Printing should possess good anti pilling wearability, as silk
The fluffy feel of flexible smooth, enough four-side elastics, enough bonding intensities, splendid washability.In view of this kind of product
With the function of substituting lining and cloth, at 40-80 grams/m, yarn selects this kind of product finished product square grammes per square metre optimum range
Microgrid low elastic polyester filament 30-75D, it is contemplated that the cloth cover flatness requirement that stamp needs, typically select one side circular knitting machine plain weave single jersey
Tissue, 28-34 inch diameters, the type weaving of the close 24-36 pins/inch of pin.
Specifically, production method such as figure for single side weft-knitting class single side weft-knitting stamp compound clothing material in the present embodiment
Shown in 4, comprise the following steps:
S401:Weave single side weft-knitting class embryo cloth.
The weaving process of this kind of single side weft-knitting class embryo cloth is specially:It is raw material to select microgrid low elastic polyester filament 15-40D;
Then one side circular knitting machine plain weave single jersey tissue is selected, with 26-34 inch diameters, the type weaving of the close 33-44 pins/inch of pin.Yu Ben
In embodiment, preferred low elastic polyester filament 20D/24F microgrids or without grenadine press plain weave single jersey on 40 pin, 30 inches of one side circular knitting machines
Weave.
S402:Preshrunk processing is carried out to embryo cloth in preshrinking device.
S403:Embryo cloth after preshrunk is dehydrated.
S404:By the embryo cloth open-width after dehydration.
S405:Configure sizing aids in sizing padding machine, then by the embryo cloth after preshrunk pad in sizing aids and
Heat treatment is carried out under 180-210 °.
S406:Embryo cloth after sizing and transfer paper are put into heat transfer machine, are warming up to 220-240 °, speed is set in
18-24 ms/min carries out transfer processing.
S407:Embryo cloth after heat transfer print is put into two point lining coating machine, first carries out slurry point coating processing, then spread
Powder coating is processed.
S408:Embryo cloth after heat transfer print is carried out an acceptance inspection, tested, passes through rear storage.
Above-mentioned steps S402-S408 operating method and the operating method of step S102-S108 in above-mentioned first embodiment
It is identical, just no longer it is described in detail herein.
The present invention also provides a kind of stamp compound clothing material produced by the above method.
As seen from the above, the stamp compound clothing material produced by the inventive method meets following performance:
The decoration function of printed fabric.The flower pattern that stamp needs can be designed or selected by designer;
The color fastness that fabric and lining should have, wearability, anti-pilling is anti-to hook silk performance, resists a fragility;
Enough bonding intensities and sufficient washable, resistance to whole boiling hot performance;
Smooth, the barrier property of lining;
The good compatibility of cloth;
Meet clean manufacturing, environmental protection and energy saving.The new process for cleanly preparing technology of applicating energy-saving environmental protection short route.
The preferred embodiments of the present invention are the foregoing is only, are not intended to limit the scope of the invention, every utilization
The equivalent structure or equivalent flow conversion that description of the invention and accompanying drawing content are made, or directly or indirectly it is used in other correlations
Technical field, be included within the scope of the present invention.