CN105636573A

CN105636573A - Cosmetic composition with increased opacity

Info

Publication number: CN105636573A
Application number: CN201480056505.8A
Authority: CN
Inventors: F.胡德里斯特; 李雅娟; 刘兆婷; 孟晟; Q.丘; 王琳; 王晓丽; 吴春炜
Original assignee: Unilever NV
Current assignee: Unilever IP Holdings BV
Priority date: 2013-10-15
Filing date: 2014-09-30
Publication date: 2016-06-01
Anticipated expiration: 2034-09-30
Also published as: CN105636573B

Abstract

A cosmetic composition is disclosed comprising particle active and cosmetically acceptable carrier comprising hydrophobic material, wherein the hydrophobic material comprises less than 15% liquid oil by weight of the composition. The particle active comprises (i) water-insoluble shell component comprising inorganic material and having a refractive index of from1.3 to 1.8; and (ii) core component comprising volatile liquid and having a refractive index of at least 1.2.

Description

There is the cosmetic composition of the opacity of raising

Invention field

The present invention relates to cosmetic composition. More particularly, it relates to the such composition being applied topically on skin, wherein need the opacity improved to provide the benefit as hidden the flaw, even skin tone and/or skin lightening (skinlightening) etc.

Background of invention

Consumer widely uses various types of cosmetic composition. For obtain defying age, the benefit of skin lightening and moisturizing and apply skin protection cosmetics, such as moisturizer or frost, apply makeup cosmetic for obtaining required optics and hue benefits. Due to high pigment and colorant content, makeup cosmetic, as foundation cream and BB frost (blemish-balmcreams) can provide such covering and hue benefits. But, regrettably, so high carrying capacity can cause the undesirable feature of sense of touch difference, and therefore moisturiser generally remains low pigment dosage. Current trend is that the promotion of increasing color cosmetic has moisturiser type use sense and is configured to tradition moisturiser to provide more perceptible optical benefits.

Brightened with shading (opacifying) optical property usually from they intrinsic emulsion structures (W/O or O/W) and the particle with high index of refraction that comprises by what moisturiser type product provided, such as micronized titanium dioxide and zinc oxide. When local applies, generally this series products is smeared on a skin surface very thin film (generally ~ 20 microns of thickness). This thin film experience flash drying process, emulsion droplets coalesces and breaks and milkiness particle (opacifyingparticles) gathering during this period. Therefore, this thin film loses its most of optical benefits spreading in few minutes after. Therefore, the time correlation in order to compensate optical benefits is lost, it is possible to add milkiness particle in the formulation in a large number. But, so high carrying capacity generally brings factitious whiting when initial applying, is not therefore desirable technical solution.

The present inventor thus recognizes, it is still desirable to provides and can provide benefit that is lasting and/or that actually improve in time after the application, the especially cosmetic composition of optical benefits. It has been found by the present inventors that by providing the particle active matter with particular configuration and character, it is possible to meet this needs. Particularly it has been found by the present inventors that the particle of the volatile material having specific refractive index containing the shell formed by the inorganic material with specific refractive index filling can meet these needs.

Have been described with the application in cosmetics of the inorganic core-shell particles. Particularly have been described for this type of particle for encapsulating the purposes of active material.

United States Patent (USP) 7,758,888(Sol-GelTechnologiesLtd.) disclosing can stabilizing active ingredient delivering active ingredients, the treatment, cosmetics or the medicine cosmetic compositions that apply for local that comprise many microcapsules with nucleocapsid structure. This microcapsule has the diameter of about 0.1 to 100 micron. The core of each microcapsule comprises at least one active component and is encapsulated in microcapsule shell. This shell is made up of at least one inorganic polymer obtained by sol-gel process, and this shell is protected active component before local applies and is designed to release of active ingredients from microcapsule after the application. To be encapsulated in other preparation unstable or stimulates the active component of skin for said composition it is said that can be used for, such as benzoyl peroxide.

WO2011/076518A(EVONIKDEGUSSAGMBH) a kind of powder composition is disclosed, it comprises: a) powder of at least one core-shell particles form, and described core comprises aqueous water or liquid aqueous phase and described shell comprises hydrophobic or hydrophobization particle and b) at least one comprise carrier and be each located on the b1 in described carrier and/or on carrier) water-soluble liquid and/or b2 at least partly) powder of water reactivity substrate. The confession of the such composition of powder type should be able to make this particle break when being applied on skin, and therefore this particle is not the form of core-shell particles after the application.

Disclosed above do not recognize comprise the shell with specific refractive index and fill also have specific refractive index volatile material particle provide can provide optical benefits for skin, the effectiveness in the cosmetic composition of the benefit especially persistently and/or actually improved in time after the application. Additionally, these open not recognizing are comprising hydrophobic material but are having the effectiveness using this type of particle in the cosmetic composition of relatively low liquid oil contents.

Definition

Refractive index

Except as otherwise noted, refractive index value mentioned in this article is the value measured at the temperature of 25 DEG C and the wavelength of 589 nanometers.

Granularity

When mentioning granularity (non-" primary particle size "), this refers to the number average diameter such as using scanning electron microscopy (SEM) to record. Similarly, " thickness " refers to the equal thickness of number such as using scanning electron microscopy (SEM) to record. In a kind of method for optimizing, cryo-SEM is used to measure granularity and thickness. In cryo-SEM, by compositions quick-freezing in liquid nitrogen, then freezing planing (cryo-planing) is to manufacture the plane wanting imaging. Diameter and usual at least 200 particles of each freedom of thickness are averaged and obtain. In order to measure diameter, from SEM image, select complete particle, and for thickness of the shell, then select the particle cut.

In the aspheric situation of particle, " diameter " refers to and strides across the detectable ultimate range of particle.

When mentioning primary particle size, this refers to that use is if S.Gu et al. is at JournalofColloidandInterfaceScience,289Method described in (2005) 419-426 pages passes through transmission electron microscopy (TEM) detectable size (diameter).

Hydrophobic material

" hydrophobic material " refers to that having precedence over water under 25 DEG C and 1atm is attracted and tend to be dissolved in the material in non-polar solven (such as n-octyl alcohol) by non-polar solven (such as n-octyl alcohol). Preferred hydrophobic material is water insoluble. Term used herein " liquid oil " refers to the fusing point hydrophobic material lower than 25 DEG C under 1atm. " on-liquid hydrophobic material " refers to the hydrophobic material of on-liquid oil. Preferred hydrophobic material is nonvolatile.

Solubility

" solvable " used herein and " soluble " refer to material solubility in solvent (unless otherwise stated, solvent is water). The solvable solution referring to that material dissolves the concentration with generation in a solvent with at least 1 g/l under room temperature (25 DEG C) and pressure (1atm). Soluble refer to that material dissolves at room temperature and pressure in a solvent to produce the solution with concentration less than 1 g/l.

Volatility

Term used herein " volatile " refers to that material has the vapour pressure of at least 1000Pa at 25 DEG C, and nonvolatile matter is the vapour pressure material less than 1000Pa.

Leave and clean type

Refer to herein in regard to the term " leave " used by compositions and be applied to or clip on skin and stay compositions thereon. Referring to herein in regard to the term " cleaning type " used by compositions is applied to or clips on skin and the skin cleaner almost rinsed out immediately after the application.

Skin

Term used herein " skin " includes the skin of face (eyelid and except lip), cervical region, chest, abdominal part, back, arm, hands and lower limb. " skin " preferably refers to skin of face.

Miscellaneous

Except in an embodiment or except otherwise expressly place, this specification indicating quantity of material or reaction condition, the physical property of material and/or all numerical value of purposes can optionally be understood to word " about " modification.

Unless specifically stated so, all amounts press the weighing scale of final composition.

Term used herein " solid " refers to that this material is not fluid at 25 DEG C.

It should be pointed out that, that any specific higher limit can be associated with any certain lower limit value when specifying any numerical range.

For avoiding query, word " comprise " be intended to mean that " including " but not necessarily " by ... constitute " or " by ... composition ". In other words, listed step or option need not be exhaustive.

Disclosure of the invention as existed herein should be considered to contain all embodiments of the mutual multiple dependence existed in claim, despite the fact that would be likely to occur the claim not having multiple dependency or redundancy.

When disclosing a feature relative to a particular aspects (compositions of the such as present invention) of the present invention, such openly should also be considered as mutatis mutandis any other side in the present invention (method of the such as present invention).

Summary of the invention

In first aspect, the present invention relates to the cosmetic composition of paste, gel, liquid or monoblock solid form, it comprises:

(a) particle active matter, wherein said particle active matter comprises:

I () comprises inorganic material and has the refractive index (n of 1.3 to 1.8_s) water-insoluble shell component; With

(ii) comprise volatile liquid and there is the refractive index (n of at least 1.2_c) core component, wherein said core component comprises the water of at least 75 weight % of described core component; With

B () comprises the cosmetics acceptable carriers of hydrophobic material, wherein said hydrophobic material comprises the liquid oil of the 15 weight % less than described compositions.

In second aspect, the method that the present invention relates to any embodiment of the compositions manufacturing first aspect, described method includes: merged with described carrier by described particle active matter; With the described compositions of recovery.

In the third aspect, the present invention provides the method improving one or more skin characteristics, and it comprises the following steps:

I., the compositions of any embodiment according to first aspect is provided;

II. described compositions is applied topically on skin; With

III. described volatile liquid is made to evaporate from described particle active matter.

In fourth aspect, the present invention provides particle active matter for providing the purposes selected from the skin benefits hiding the flaw, even skin tone, skin lightening or its combination, and wherein said particle active matter comprises:

(ii) comprise volatile liquid and there is the refractive index (n of at least 1.2_c) core component.

Described particle active matter is preferably as described in any embodiment of a first aspect of the present invention.

In the 5th, the present invention provides the compositions of any embodiment of first aspect for providing the purposes selected from the skin benefits hiding the flaw, even skin tone, skin lightening or its combination.

Row are easier to find out all other sides of the present invention when describing in detail with embodiment under consideration.

Detailed Description Of The Invention

To only limitation is that of the type of the particle active matter that can be used for the present invention, it can be used in the cosmetic composition being suitable for being applied topically on skin, and this particle active matter comprises:

Without wishing to being subject to theory, but it is believed by the inventors that it is substituted by air along with volatile liquid evaporates (such as after being applied on skin) from particle core. Air has relatively low refractive index, therefore produces the refractive index mismatch (or the mismatch at least improved) between core and the shell of this particle active matter. This further means that the light scattering efficiency of this particle improves and the total optical benefit provided by said composition is passed through in time after the application and developed.

Shell component is water insoluble but preferred porous. Shell at least should enough can thoroughly can allow volatile liquid to evaporate from core when particle active matter is exposed in air under 25 DEG C and 1atm. Shell component most preferably enough can thoroughly to be exposed in air 12 hours at particle active matter or even substantially all volatile liquids (the 90-100 weight % of the general volatile liquid in such as core) can be allowed to evaporate from core when 6 or 3 hours under 25 DEG C and 1atm.

Shell component is usually solid.

Shell component comprises inorganic material. Most preferred inorganic material for shell component is inorganic polymer, especially by the inorganic polymer that sol-gel process obtains, because such polymer can use such as such as US7,758, method described in 888 is configured to shelly particle, the disclosure of US7,758,888 is incorporated herein by this reference with its full text (especially its 13rd hurdle [15-39 row]). Inorganic polymer is preferably formed by pure silicon dioxide, organically-modified silicon dioxide or its combination, it is most preferred that formed by silicon dioxide.

Shell component also can comprise organic material except inorganic material, but shell component comprises the inorganic material of at least 80 weight % of described shell component in a preferred embodiment, more preferably at 90%, it is most preferred that 95 to 100%. In an especially preferred embodiment, shell is by (or at least basic by) inorganic material, and the most especially silicon dioxide is constituted.

The refractive index of shell component is sufficiently large the refractive index in air so that once volatile liquid evaporates from the core of particle active matter, the air substituting it has the notable refractive index mismatch with shell. Therefore this water-insoluble shell component has at least 1.3, the refractive index (n more preferably at 1.4_s). But this refractive index can not be too high, otherwise shell is likely to be of the notable refractive index mismatch with volatile liquid. Therefore n_sIt is not more than 1.8, it is preferable that less than 1.7, be more preferably less than 1.6, it is most preferred that less than 1.5.

Core component comprises volatile liquid and is preferably substantially made up of volatile liquid, or be even made up of volatile liquid. This liquid is volatile so that it can evaporate from core when particle active matter is exposed in air under 25 DEG C and 1atm. This volatile liquid preferably has at 25 DEG C at least 2000Pa, it is most preferred that at least vapour pressure of 2.5kPa. But this liquid need not have too high volatility, otherwise it is likely to overflow from particle active matter too early. This volatile liquid preferably has lower than 50kPa at 25 DEG C, more preferably less than the vapour pressure of 15kPa. Preferred volatile liquid includes volatile silicone, C1-C5 alcohol, water or its mixture. Most preferably water. Core component preferably comprises the water of at least 50 weight % of described core component, more preferably at 75%, and even more preferably at least 85%, it is most preferred that 90 to 100%.

The refractive index that the refractive index of core component is sufficiently large in air with the generation when this liquid is substituted by air or at least improves refractive index mismatch. Therefore this core component has at least 1.2, more preferably at 1.25, it is most preferred that the refractive index (n of at least 1.3_c). This refractive index need not too high and n_cSuch as less than 2.0,1.8 can be more preferably less than, even more preferably less than 1.5, are even more preferably less than 1.45, it is most preferred that less than 1.4.

In a most preferred embodiment, so that only just there is mismatch in the refractive index substantially match that of shell and core when volatile liquid evaporates from core. Such as, the ratio (n of the refractive index of the refractive index of core and shell_c/n_s) it is preferably 0.7 to 1.2, more preferably 0.8 to 1.1, it is most preferred that 0.85 to 1.0.

If by particle micronization, then the light scatter properties of this particle active matter strengthens. Therefore this particle active matter preferably has and is not more than 50 microns, is more preferably less than 20 microns, even more preferably less than 10 microns, is even more preferably less than 5 microns, it is most preferred that the granularity (D) less than 2 microns.

It has however been found that this particle need not be too little, and effective optical effect can be obtained with relatively large particle. Therefore this particle active matter preferably has at least 200 nanometers, more preferably at 500 nanometers, and even more preferably at least 600 nanometers, even more desirably at least 700 nanometers, it is most preferred that the granularity (D) of at least 800 nanometers.

It has also been found that the particle active matter with relatively thick shell produces especially good optical effect. Therefore the relation between thickness (L) and the granularity (D) of particle active matter of shell component in a preferred embodiment meets equation (I):

L��150nm�C0.25��D(I)��

This particle active matter is preferably spherical or class is spherical, it is most preferred that be spherical.

Each particle of this particle active matter preferably comprises the monokaryon component (more preferably basic by or be made up of the monokaryon component encapsulated by shell component) encapsulated by shell component.

This cosmetic composition preferably comprises the particle active matter of 0.001 to 20 weight % shell group component of said composition, and more preferably 0.01 to 10%, even more preferably 0.1 to 6%, even more preferably from 0.2 to 4%, it is most preferred that 0.5 to 2.5%.

The compositions of the present invention preferably comprises milkiness particle. These are to have high refractive index, namely have the particle of the refractive index of at least 1.7. Such as, this milkiness particle can have more than 1.8, more preferably greater than 1.9, it is most preferred that the refractive index of 2.0 to 2.7. The example of this type of milkiness particle is those that comprise bismuth oxychloride, boron nitride, titanium dioxide, zirconium oxide, aluminium oxide, zinc oxide or its combination. More preferably comprise the milkiness particle of zinc oxide, zirconium oxide, titanium dioxide or its combination, because these materials have especially high refractive index. Most preferably comprise the milkiness particle of titanium dioxide. Said composition preferably comprises 0.001 to 10 weight %, more preferably 0.01 to 7 weight %, even more preferably 0.02 to 5 weight %, it is most preferred that the milkiness particle of the amount of 0.05 to 2 weight %, and wherein the amount of particle active matter is with the weighing scale of the weight mesochite component of said composition.

The preferred micronization of milkiness particle. This milkiness particle preferably has 20 to 2000 nanometers, more preferably 25 to 900 nanometers, it is most preferred that the primary particle size of 30 to 400 nanometers, including all scopes wherein comprised.

Milkiness particle generally separates (namely said composition comprises particle active matter and additionally comprises milkiness particle) with particle active matter. Due to their higher light shielding ability, milkiness particle is generally compounding in the composition with the amount lower than particle active matter. Such as, said composition preferably comprises 1000:1 to 1:1, more preferably 100:1 to 1.5:1, even more preferably 50:1 to 2:1, the most preferably particle active matter of the weight ratio (particle active matter: milkiness particle) of 20:1 to 3:1 and milkiness particle, wherein the amount of particle active matter is with the weighing scale of shell component.

The present inventor is it has also been found that comprise yellow uitramarine in the composition and can help to provide appearance benefit into skin. Particularly find, particle active matter and milkiness particle (when it is present) opacity provided for skin is also rendered as uneven " speckle " sometimes even at when uniformly applying said composition, and the existence of yellow uitramarine can improve this effect. Therefore said composition comprises yellow uitramarine in a preferred embodiment.

Yellow uitramarine preferably with 0.001 to 3 weight % of said composition, more preferably 0.01 to 2.5%, even more preferably 0.05 to 2%, it is most preferred that the amount of 0.1 to 1.5% exists. Yellow uitramarine is preferably metal-oxide. Suitable metal-oxide includes titanium dioxide, ferrum oxide or Tin monoxide. Or, this yellow uitramarine has organic origin. Can be used for the commercially available yellow uitramarine of said preparation and include BGYO-TTB2(from KoboProductInc, USA), SI2YellowLLXLO(is from DaitoKaseiKogyoCompany, Japan), Bronze43737(is from SudarshanChemicals, India), TatrazineYellow(is from Davarson, India), Rhizoma Curcumae Longae extract or its mixture. Most preferably ColourIndexConstitutionNumber (C.I.) is the ferrum oxide of 77492.

Preferred metal-oxide is yellow iron oxide. This ferrum oxide preferably suitably coating or encapsulating so that minimizing with the interaction of other composition of said composition. Such as, when there is Orangic sunscreen in said preparation, for instance during as Parsol1789 (Givaudan) PAROSOL 1789 sold, they and ferrum oxide interact and produce unacceptable redness. For making such interaction minimize, this metal oxide particle is preferably coated with the material of Muscovitum and/or silicone (such as methylhydrogenpolysi,oxane, more preferably silicone) etc. One example of coated yellow iron oxide is above-mentioned BGYO-TTB2, and its I.N.C.I is called: ferrum oxide (C.I.77492) (with) three iso stearate isopropyl titanates (IsopropylTitaniumTriisostearate) (with) triethoxysilylethyl poly dimethyl siloxy ethyl polydimethylsiloxane.

In a preferred embodiment, said composition can additionally or alternatively comprise red pigment, black pigment or its combination. The red pigment being more preferably combined with yellow uitramarine, comprises yellow uitramarine, red pigment and black pigment even more preferably from said composition. Pigment total amount in said composition is preferably 0.001 to 4 weight % of said composition, and more preferably 0.01 to 3%, even more preferably 0.05 to 2.5%, it is most preferred that 0.1 to 2%.

The compositions of the present invention also comprises cosmetics acceptable carriers. This carrier comprises hydrophobic material, and wherein this hydrophobic material comprises the liquid oil of the 15 weight % less than said composition. It has been found by the present inventors that this particle active matter can damage, with contacting of a large amount of liquid oil, the optical benefits provided by this particle active matter. This hydrophobic material preferably comprises the liquid oil of the 12 weight % less than said composition, even more preferably less than 10%, is even more preferably less than 8%, it is most preferred that 0.01 to 5%.

In some embodiments, this carrier is (or including at least) water oil emulsion, and it can be water-in-oil emulsion in certain embodiments. However, it is preferred to emulsion be oil-in-water type. If this carrier is emulsion, it is preferable that particle active matter is dispersed in the aqueous phase of this water oil emulsion so that the interaction of any liquid oil in particle active matter and compositions minimizes.

Regardless of the amount of liquid oil in said composition, this hydrophobic material can comprise on-liquid hydrophobic material. Particularly said composition can contain 0.01 to 80 weight % of said composition, and more preferably 0.1 to 30%, even more preferably 0.5 to 25%, it is most preferred that the on-liquid hydrophobic material of the amount of 1 to 10%.

Preferred hydrophobic material for the present invention includes emollient, such as fat, oil, fatty alcohol, fatty acid, soap, silicone oil, synthetic ester and/or hydrocarbon. Many Orangic sunscreens are also hydrophobic materials can alone or be combined use with one or more above-mentioned emollient.

Silicone is divided into volatilization and non-volatile class. Volatile silicone oil (if use) is preferably selected from containing 3 to 9, it is preferable that the ring-type (cyclomethicone) of 4 to 5 silicon atoms or linear polydimethysiloxane.

Can be used as the nonvolatile silicone of emollient materials and include polyalkylsiloxane, Polyalkylaryl siloxane and polyether siloxane copolymer. Herein can basic Non-volatile polyalkylsiloxane include such as having at 25 DEG C about 5 �� 10^-6To 0.1m²The polydimethylsiloxane of the viscosity of/s. Can be used for the preferred non-volatile emollients of this compositions and include having at 25 DEG C about 1 �� 10^-sTo about 4 �� 10^-4m²The polydimethylsiloxane of the viscosity of/s.

Can effectively use organopolysiloxane cross linked polymer. the representative of these materials is Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone cross linked polymer and the Dimethicone Crosspolymer available from various suppliers, including DowCorning(9040, 9041, 9045, 9506 and 9509), GeneralElectric(SFE839), ShinEtsu(KSG-15, 16 and 18 [polydimethylsiloxane/phenyl vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer]) and the material of GrantIndustries(Gransil trade mark) and lauryl dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone cross polymer (the such as KSG-31 of ShinEtsu supply, KSG-32, KSG-41, KSG-42, KSG-43 and KSG-44).

The instantiation of non-silicone emollients includes stearyl alcohol, single ricinoleic acid ester, ermine oil, spermol, IPIS, stearic acid, isobutyl palmitate, iso-spermaceti ester alcohol stearic acid, oleyl alcohol, isopropyl laurate, lauric acid hexyl ester, decyl oleate, octadecane-2-alcohol, different spermol, eicosyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, spermol cetylate, silicone oil is dimethyl polysiloxane such as, n-butyl sebacate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, butyl stearate, Polyethylene Glycol, triethylene glycol, lanoline, cocoa butter, Semen Maydis oil, Oleum Gossypii semen, olive oil, palm-kernel oil, Oleum Brassicae campestris, safflower oil, Radix Oenotherae erythrosepalae oil, soybean oil, Oleum Helianthi, American Avocado Tree oil, sesame seed oil, Oleum Cocois, Oleum Arachidis hypogaeae semen, Oleum Ricini, Acetylated lanolin alcohols., vaseline, mineral oil, butyl myristate, isostearic acid, Palmic acid, linoleic acid isopropyl ester, LA, myristyl alcohol lactate, decyl oleate, myristyl alcohol myristinate and mixture thereof.

Ester emollient includes:

A) there is alkenyl or the Arrcostab of the fatty acid of 10 to 20 carbon atoms. The example includes the different Semen arachidis hypogaeae alcohol ester of neopentanoic acid, isodecyl alcohol ester, isononyl isononanoate, castor oil acid spermaceti alcohol ester, myristic acid oleyl alcohol ester, stearic acid oleyl alcohol ester and oleic acid oleic alcohol ester;

B) ether-ester, such as the fatty acid ester of ethoxylized fatty alcohol;

C) polyol ester. butanediol, ethylene glycol list and two-fatty acid ester, diethylene glycol list-and two-fatty acid ester, Polyethylene Glycol (200-6000) list-and two-fatty acid ester, propylene glycol list-and two-fatty acid ester, polypropylene glycol 2000 monoleate, polypropylene glycol 2000 monostearate, ethoxylated propylene glycol monostearate, glycerol list-and two-fatty acid ester, polyglycereol gathers fatty ester (polyglycerolpoly-fattyester), ethoxylated glycerol monostearate, 1, 3-butanediol monostearate, 1, 3-butanediol distearate, polyoxyethylene polyol fatty acid esters, sorbitan fatty ester and polyoxyethylene sorbitan fatty acid ester are gratifying polyol esters. that available especially is C₁-C₃₀The tetramethylolmethane of alcohol, trimethylolpropane and DOPCP. Example is tetramethylolmethane tetraethyl alkyl caproate;

D) wax ester, such as Cera Flava, spermaceti and tribehenin fine wax (tribeheninwax);

E) sterol ester, the example is cholesterol aliphatic ester;

F) sugar ester of fatty acid, behenates as many in sucrose and sucrose polycottonseedate oleate (sucrosepolycottonseedate); Or

G) mixture of two or more above-mentioned (a) to (f).

Also the benzoic acid C with Finsolve trademark Soynatto is used especially_12-15Arrcostab.

Hydrocarbon as suitable emollient includes vaseline, mineral oil, C₁₁-C₁₃Isoparaffin, polyalphaolefin, 2-Methylpentadecane or its mixture.

In an especially preferred embodiment, this hydrophobic material comprises the fatty acid of 1 to 25 weight % of said composition or the soap of 0.1 to 80 weight %. The mixture of fatty acid and soap also is adapted for, for instance give the vanishing cream base (vanishingcreambase) of the very popular sub-light sensation of skin. C12 to C20 fatty acid is especially preferred for use in the present invention, more preferably C14 to C18 fatty acid. Most preferred fatty acid is stearic acid, myristic acid or its mixture. Fatty acid in said composition more preferably exists with the amount of 5 to 20 weight % of said composition. Soap in this hydrophobic material can include the alkali metal salt of fatty acid, such as sodium or potassium salt, it is most preferred that be potassium stearate. Soap in this hydrophobic material is generally with 0.1 to 10 weight % of said composition, and more preferably the amount of 0.5 to 3 weight % exists. Usually by taking the desired amount of total fatty material and mixing, with potassium hydroxide, the vanishing cream base preparing in cosmetic composition with aequum. This soap is generally formed at mixed process situ.

This carrier preferably comprises water. The water yield can be such as 1 to 99 weight %, more preferably 5 to the 90 weight % of this cosmetic composition, even more preferably from 35 to 80 weight %, it is desirable to 40 to 70 weight %.

The compositions of the present invention preferably comprises skin lightening agent. this skin lightening agent is preferably selected from vitamin b 3 compound or derivatives thereof, for instance nicotinic acid, niacin or nicotiamide or other known skin lightening agent, for instance adapalene, Aloe extract, DL-Lactic acid ammonium salt., anethole derivant, Fructus Mali pumilae extract, arbutin, Azelaic Acid, kojic acid, bamboo extract, Arctostaphylos ura-ursi extract, the Pseudobulbus Bletillae (Rhizoma Bletillae) (bletillatuber), Radix Bupleuri extract, Radix Sangusorbae extract, butylated hydroxyanisole (BHA), butylated hydroxytoluene, citrate, Rhizoma Chuanxiong, Radix Angelicae Sinensis, deoxyarbutin, 1,3-diphenyl propane derivative, 2,5-resorcylic acid and derivant thereof, 2-(4-acetoxyl group phenyl)-1,3-dithiane (dithane), 2-(4-hydroxy phenyl)-1,3-dithiane, ellagic acid, aesculin alcohol (escinol), chavicol methyl ether derivant, Fadeout(Pentapharm), Radix Saposhnikoviae, Fructus Foeniculi extract, Ganoderma extract, gaoben, GatulineWhitening(Gattlefosse), gentisic acid (genisticacid) and derivant thereof, glabridin and derivant thereof, glucopyranosyl-1-acid ascorbyl ester, gluconic acid, glycolic, green tea extract, 4-hydroxy-5-methyl base-3 [2H]-furanone, hydroquinone, 4-hydroxyanisol and derivant thereof, 4-HBA derivant, Hydroxycaprylic acid, inositol acid ascorbyl ester, citron extract, linoleic acid, magnesium L-ascorbyl-2-phosphate, Melawhite(Pentapharm), Morus alba (Morusalba) extract, Radix Mori extract, 5-decoyl salicylic acid, parsley extract, phellinus linteus extract, pyrogallol derivant, 2,4-resorcinol derivatives, 3,5-resorcinol derivatives, Rosehips extract, salicylic acid, Song-Yi extract, 3,4,5-trihydroxy benzyl derivative, tranexamic acid, vitamin is vitamin B6 such as, vitamin B12, vitamin C, vitamin A, dicarboxylic acids, resorcinol derivatives, from the extract that plant such as Rubia and mountain vitriol belong to, hydroxy carboxylic acid, such as lactic acid and their salt, for instance sodium lactate and one or more in mixture thereof. vitamin b 3 compound or derivatives thereof, for instance nicotinic acid, niacin or nicotiamide are according to the preferred skin lightening agent of the present invention, it is most preferred that be nicotiamide. when using nicotiamide, it is preferably with 0.1 to 10 weight % of said composition, and more preferably the amount of 0.2 to 5 weight % exists.

Said composition preferably additionally comprises one or more Orangic sunscreens. various Orangic sunscreens are suitable for the basis with the present invention and are combined use. suitable UV-A/UV-B sunscreen includes ESCALOL 567, octyldimethyl para-amino benzoic acid, two acyl trioleates (digalloyltrioleate), 2, 2-dihydroxy-4-methoxy benzophenone, ethyl-4-(double, two (hydroxypropyl)) Aminobenzoate, 2-ethylhexyl-2-cyano group-3, 3-diphenylacrylate ester,-Escalol 587, para-amino benzoic acid glyceride, 3, 3, 5-trimethylcyclohexyl salicylate, methyl 2-aminobenzoate, to dimethyl-amino benzoic acid or Aminobenzoate, 2-ethylhexyl-to dimethyl-amino benzoate, 2-PHENYLBENZIMIDAZOLE-5-SULFONIC ACID, 2-(to dimethylaminophenyl)-5-sulfonic acid benzothiazole acid (sulfonicbenzoxazoicacid), Parsol MCX, PAROSOL 1789, ESCALOL 567, octyldimethyl-para-amino benzoic acid and mixture thereof. most suitable Orangic sunscreen is Parsol MCX, PAROSOL 1789 or its mixture.

The compositions can be used for the present invention can use the Orangic sunscreen of safe and effective amount. Said composition preferably comprises 0.1% to 10%, more preferably the Orangic sunscreen of 0.1% to 5%.

Can be included in other material in cosmetics acceptable carriers and include solvent, wetting agent, thickening agent and end powder (powders). The respective example of material of these types that can be used alone or as a mixture is as follows:

Solvent includes ethanol, isopropanol, acetone, ethylene glycol monoethyl ether, diethylene glycol monobutyl ether, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether and mixture thereof.

Wetting agent includes those of polyhydric alcohol-type. Typical polyhydric alcohol includes poly alkylene glycol, it is more preferably alkylidene polyol and their derivant, including propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, Polyethylene Glycol and derivant thereof, Sorbitol, hydroxypropyl sorbitol, hexanediol, 1,3-butanediol, isoprene, 1,2,6-hexanetriols, glycerol, ethoxylated glycerol, propoxylated glycerol and mixture thereof. The amount of wetting agent can be 0.5 to 50 weight % of such as said composition, more preferably 1 to 15 weight %. Most preferably glycerol (also referred to as glycerol). The amount of glycerol can be by weight the 0.5% to 50% of such as said composition, more preferably 1 to 35%, it is desirable to 2 to 15%.

Various thickening agent can be comprised in the composition. exemplary and stearic acid non-limitingly, acrylamide/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymers (AristoflexAVC), 2-(Acryloyloxy)ethanol/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymers, octenyl succinic acid starch aluminum, polyacrylate is (such as carbomer, including Carbopol 980, Carbopol 1342, PemulenTR-2 and Ultrez thickening agent), polysaccharide (includes xanthan gum, guar gum, pectin, carrageenin and Scleroglucan), cellulose (includes carboxymethyl cellulose, ethyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose and methylhydroxy methylcellulose), mineral (include Talcum, silicon dioxide, aluminium oxide, Muscovitum and clay, the latter is with bentonite, Strese Hofmann's hectorite. and attapulgite are representative), aluminium-magnesium silicate and mixture thereof. the amount of thickening agent can be such as 0.05 to the 10 weight %, more preferably 0.3 to 2 weight % of said composition.

End powder includes Chalk, Talcum, bleaching earth, Kaolin, starch, natural gum, colloidal silica sodium polyacrylate, tetraalkyl and/or trialkyl aryl ammonium smectites, the aluminium-magnesium silicate of chemical modification, organically-modified montmorillonitic clay, aluminium hydrosilicate, fumed silica, carboxy vinyl polymer, sodium carboxymethyl cellulose and ethylene glycol monostearate.

The compositions of the present invention is not powder type, since it is desired that this particle active matter does not break when being applied on skin. Without wishing to being subject to theory, but it is believed by the inventors that the existence on skin of the particle active matter of core-shell provides the favourable optical effect of the present invention. Said composition is therefore for the form of paste, gel, liquid or monoblock solid (such as soap bar). Preferred form is frost or emulsion (lotion).

The cosmetic composition of the present invention is the compositions being suitable for being applied topically on human skin, including leave and clean type product. This term preferably includes fluid body, particularly moisturiser but not color cosmetic. Most preferably leave compositions.

The packaging of the compositions of the present invention can be tank or pipe and other form any being generally used for cosmetics, frost, washing and emulsion type products. Said composition can locally apply and preferred every square centimeter of skin applies 1-4 milligram compositions.

The following example is provided to be beneficial to understand the present invention. These embodiments are not intended to limit the scope of claims.

Embodiment

Embodiment 1

This embodiment demonstration can be used for the present invention core-shell particles manufacture and wherein said shell formed by the inorganic polymer of sol-gel polymerization.

Material

Styrene (St) purifies purchased from SinopharmChemicalReagentCo. (China) and by processing with 5 weight %NaOH aqueous solutions removing inhibitor. MTC [2-(methylacryloyl)-ethyl-trimethyl salmiac] (80 weight %) aqueous solution is supplied by SIGMA-ALDRICH, Co. (USA). 2,2 '-azo isobutyronitrile (AIBN, 98%, AldrichUSA) is recrystallization from oxolane (THF) before use. A, a '-azo two 2,2-Dimethylaziridine dihydrochloride (AIBA), PVP (PVP, K30, Mw=30000), the positive silicic acid triethyl of TEOS(), dehydrated alcohol and ammonia spirit (28 weight %) are purchased from SinopharmChemicalReagentCo. (China) and press sample and use. Deionized water is used for all polymerizations and processing procedure.

The synthesis of PS template

Be there is the polystyrene particle of the granularity higher than 1 m by dispersin polymerization synthesis. In exemplary program, following synthesis has the positively charged PS particle of the diameter of 1500 nanometers: is being furnished with mechanical agitator, having the thermometer of temperature controller, N₂500 milliliters of three-neck flasks of entrance, Graham condenser and heating mantles mix 10.0 grams of St, 3.0 grams of PVP, 0.35 gram of AIBN, 40.0 grams of ethanol, 10.0 grams of H₂O. This mixed solution first passes through and at room temperature blasts nitrogen and carry out deoxidation in 30 minutes, is then heated to 70 DEG C under the stir speed (S.S.) of 180rpm and continues 1.5 hours, then adds the mixture of 10.0 grams of St, 40.0 grams of ethanol and 0.78 gram of MTC.

Table 1 summarises the formula (St20g, PVP3.0g, AIBN0.35g) for synthesizing various sizes of PS template ball.

Table 1

H₂O (g)	EtOH (g)	EtOH(g)/H₂O (g)	Granularity (nm)
				15	75	1:5	1000 9 -->
10	80	1:8	1500
				7	83	1:11.8	1800

SiO₂The synthesis of hollow ball

In typical process, stir 5 minutes under 180rpm in the dispersion add to obtain above by 5.5 milliliters of ammonia and by this mixture. Rapidly join 15 grams of TEOS and this mixture is kept about 1 hour under being stirred continuously at 50 DEG C. By centrifugal 7 minutes under 10000rpm, ball separating obtained from reaction solution. By PS/SiO₂Hybrid particle is dry whole night to produce dried powder at 80 DEG C. It is carried out as follows the calcining step for removing PS core template: product is heated to 550 DEG C with the rate of heat addition of 1 DEG C/min from room temperature in air atmosphere, then keeps at 550 DEG C other 2 hours. Finally, product is cooled in atmosphere room temperature.

There is the gained SiO of different-diameter₂The SEM image of hollow ball shows, the shell of diameter (namely 1000 nanometers, 1500 nanometers or 1800 nanometers) and each particle that their diameter is substantially equal to PS template has the thickness of about 20 nanometers.

Embodiment 2

Two kinds of exemplary formulations according to the cosmetic composition of the vanishing cream form of the present invention arrange in table 2.

Table 2

Composition (%w/w)	Vanishing cream 1	Vanishing cream 2
			Stearic acid	17	5
Myristic acid	---	5
			Nicotiamide	1.25	3
Glycerol	5	1
			Propylene glycol	10	---
Nertralizer (alkali)	0.48	0.66
			Carbomer	---	0.2
Tapioca	---	0.7
			Spermol	0.53	0.53
Polydimethylsiloxane	0.5	0.563
			Isopropyl myristate	1	---
Methyl parahydroxybenzoate/propyl ester	0.3	0.3
			Parsol MCX(ethylhexyl methoxy cinnamate)	0.75	1.25
Parsol 1789(PAROSOL 1789)	0.4	0.4
			Titanium dioxide (80 nanometers)¹	1	0.8
Titanium dioxide (400 nanometers)²	2	---
			Pigment	1.29³	0.015⁴
Core-shell particles	2	2
			Secondary thing⁵	1.37	0.86
Water	To 100	To 100

1.MT700Z=titanium dioxide (with) stearic acid (with) aluminium hydroxide, TAYCA supply in bracket and be of a size of primary particle size.

2.SA-TR-10=titanium dioxide (with) dimethyl polysiloxane, MiyoshiKaseiInc. supply in bracket and be of a size of primary particle size.

3. the mixture of yellow, redness and black pigment.

4. red pigment.

5. secondary thing includes vitamin, essence, chelating agen, antibacterial and other skin benefit agent.

Core-shell particles used in these formula is the SiO of embodiment 1₂Hollow ball.

Embodiment 3

The exemplary formulations of the cosmetic composition of the moisturiser form according to the present invention arranges in table 3.

Table 3

Composition (%w/w)	Moisturiser
		Stearic acid	3
Nicotiamide	3
		Glycerol	1
Nertralizer (alkali)	1.05
		Carbomer	0.4
Spermol	0.5
		Mineral oil	1.5
Glyceryl monostearate	1.5
		Polydimethylsiloxane (200 cSt)	0.5
Isopropyl myristate	2
		Methyl parahydroxybenzoate/propyl ester	0.3
Parsol MCX(ethylhexyl methoxy cinnamate)	1.25
		Parsol 1789(PAROSOL 1789)	0.4
Titanium dioxide (80 nanometers)¹	0.6
		Titanium dioxide (400 nanometers)²	0.2
Pigment³	0.068
		Core-shell particles⁴	1.5
Secondary thing⁵	1.211
		Water	To 100

1.MT700Z.

2.SA-TR-10.

3. the mixture of yellow and red pigment.

4. prepare in embodiment 1.

Liquid oil in this compositions includes mineral oil, polydimethylsiloxane, isopropyl myristate, ethylhexyl methoxy cinnamate and phenyl phenol. The total amount of liquid oil is 5.7 weight % of said composition.

Embodiment 4

This various particle of embodiment illustration impact on the lasting opacity in moisturiser base material.

Use the moisturiser base material described in embodiment 3 but milkiness particle and/or core-shell particles by not commensurability and/or type as shown in table 4 prepares three kinds of samples. These samples are without any redness or yellow uitramarine.

Table 4

Composition (%w/w)	Sample 1	Sample 2	Sample 3
				Titanium dioxide (80 nanometers)	---	2.0	---
Titanium dioxide (400 nanometers)	---	---	---
				SiO₂Hollow ball¹ (1.5 ��m)	---	---	1.75

1. as described in example 1 above preparation amount with SiO₂Meter.

Controlled dry (23 DEG C, 45%RH) process of spread thin film uses Minolta^TMCM2600D spectrophotometric color measurement instrument measures opacity with SCE pattern. For each sample, use 75 microns of cubes of film applicators (filmapplicator) to scrape at black/white and card-coating (draw-downcard) spreads thin film. White and black background are measured the reflectance value of this thin film different time after spreading. Ratio calculation opacity as the reflectance under 450 nano wave lengths in black/white background. Table 5 shows that each sample thin film changes (i.e. opacity change=in the opacities of the 60 minutes opacity at 0 minute) through the opacity of 60 minutes.

Table 5

Sample	Opacity change after 60 minutes
		1	0.007
2	-0.077
		3	0.195

These are as a result, it was confirmed that the sample (sample 3) containing core-shell particles shows after spreading in time through improving the ability of opacity.

Embodiment 5

This embodiment illustration milkiness particle and the core-shell particles impact on the lasting skin lightening in moisturiser base material.

Use the moisturiser base material described in embodiment 3 but with different amounts of milkiness particle as shown in table 6 and/or core-shell particles (1 micron of SiO from embodiment 1₂Ball) prepare two kinds of samples. These samples are without any redness or yellow uitramarine.

Table 6

Composition (%w/w)	Sample 1	Sample 2
			Titanium dioxide (80 nanometers)	---	0.6
Titanium dioxide (400 nanometers)	---	---
			Core-shell particles¹	2.0	2.0

1. amount is with SiO₂Meter.

Controlled dry (23 DEG C, 45%RH) process of spread thin film uses Minolta^TMCM2600D spectrophotometric color measurement instrument measures opacity with SCE pattern. For each sample, use 75 microns of cubes of film applicators to scrape at black/white and card-coating spreads thin film. White and black background are measured the reflectance value of this thin film different time after spreading. Ratio calculation opacity as the reflectance under 450 nano wave lengths in black/white background. Table 7 show each sample thin film after spreading through the opacity of 60 minutes.

Table 7

Time (min)	Sample 1	Sample 2
			0	0.06	0.16
5	0.06	0.15
			10	0.12	0.11 12 -->
15	0.18	0.17
			20	0.27	0.20
30	0.30	0.26
			60	0.34	0.32

Number in table 7 is it is demonstrated that the existence (sample 2) of milkiness particle provides instant opacity (namely the opacity of 0 minute) to the full extent. But the opacity that both samples all show process in time improves. Core-shell particles use in both samples causes that opacity improved significantly to even higher than the opacity of the instant brightness produced by milkiness particle value 60 minutes periods. But, the sample (sample 2) containing both milkiness particle and core-shell particles shows the optimum balance of instant and lasting opacity.

Embodiment 6

Core-shell particles is provided the impact of the ability of lasting opacity by this embodiment illustration liquid oil contents.

Use two kinds of moisturiser base materials without pigment and milkiness particle. The first base material is base material (" low liquid oil base material ") used in the moisturiser of embodiment 3. The second base material has the liquid oil contents (" high liquid oil base material ") more than 17 weight %. By core-shell particles (1.5 microns of SiO of embodiment 1₂Particle) with 1.75 weight %SiO of final moisturizing cream composition₂Amount add in each base material.

Controlled dry (23 DEG C, 45%RH) process of spread thin film uses Minolta^TMCM2600D spectrophotometric color measurement instrument measures opacity with SCE pattern. For each sample, use 75 microns of cubes of film applicators to scrape at black/white and card-coating spreads thin film. White and black background are measured the reflectance value of this thin film different time after spreading. Ratio calculation opacity as the reflectance under 450 nano wave lengths in black/white background. Table 8 show each sample thin film after spreading through the opacity of 60 minutes.

Table 8

Time (min)	Low liquid oil base material	High liquid oil base material
			0	0.06	0.24
5	0.07	0.08
			15	0.24	0.05
30	0.24	0.05
			60	0.26	0.05

Data in table 8 confirm for low liquid oil base material, and this core-shell particles can improve opacity after 60 minutes. Unlike this, in high liquid oil base material, this hollow ball can not prevent opacity through the continuous reduction of 60 minutes after spreading.

The Cryo-SEM image of sample shows, is different from low liquid oil base material, and in high liquid oil base material, core-shell particles seems to be covered by oily material and embed. Without wishing to being subject to theory, but the present inventor speculates, this covering is likely to prevent or at least suppress the water when film drying to evaporate from particle. Or, the index contrast that this liquid oil coating is likely to reduce between shell and surrounding medium is so that scattering efficiency reduces.

Claims

1. the cosmetic composition of paste, gel, liquid or monoblock solid form, it comprises:

(a) particle active matter, wherein said particle active matter comprises:

2. cosmetic composition as described in claim 1, wherein said compositions is frost or emulsion.

3. the cosmetic composition as described in claim 1 or claim 2, wherein said inorganic material is inorganic polymer, it is preferable that the inorganic polymer formed by silicon dioxide, organically-modified silicon dioxide or its combination.

4. cosmetic composition as described in claim 3, wherein said inorganic polymer is obtained by sol-gel process.

5., such as the cosmetic composition described in aforementioned any one of claim, wherein said particle active matter has at least 200 nanometers, it is preferable that the granularity (D) of at least 500 nanometers.

6. cosmetic composition as described in claim 5, wherein said shell component has the thickness (L) meeting following relationship (I):

L��150nm�C0.25��D(I)��

7. such as the cosmetic composition described in aforementioned any one of claim, wherein said shell porous.

8. such as the cosmetic composition described in aforementioned any one of claim, the ratio (n of the refractive index of the refractive index of wherein said core and described shell_c/n_s) be 0.7 to 1.2, it is preferable that 0.8 to 1.0.

9., such as the cosmetic composition described in aforementioned any one of claim, wherein said compositions additionally comprises the refractive index with at least 1.7, it is preferable that have the milkiness particle of the refractive index of 2.0 to 2.7.

10., such as the cosmetic composition described in aforementioned any one of claim, wherein said compositions comprises yellow uitramarine.

11. such as the cosmetic composition described in aforementioned any one of claim, wherein said hydrophobic material comprises the liquid oil of the amount of 0.01 to 10 weight % of described compositions.

12. such as the cosmetic composition described in aforementioned any one of claim, wherein said hydrophobic material comprises soap or its mixture of 0.1 to 80 weight % of the fatty acid of 1 to 25 weight % of described compositions, described compositions.

13. such as the cosmetic composition described in aforementioned any one of claim, wherein said carrier comprises the on-liquid hydrophobic material of the amount of 0.5 to 30 weight % of described compositions.

14. the method improving one or more skin characteristics, it comprises the following steps:

I. provide such as the compositions described in aforementioned any one of claim;

II. described compositions is applied topically on skin; With

15. particle active matter is for providing the purposes selected from the skin benefits hiding the flaw, even skin tone, skin whitening or its combination, wherein said particle active matter comprises: