CN105316840B - A kind of manufacture method of plaiting openwork jacquard cloth - Google Patents
A kind of manufacture method of plaiting openwork jacquard cloth Download PDFInfo
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- CN105316840B CN105316840B CN201510774065.6A CN201510774065A CN105316840B CN 105316840 B CN105316840 B CN 105316840B CN 201510774065 A CN201510774065 A CN 201510774065A CN 105316840 B CN105316840 B CN 105316840B
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- 150000001875 compounds Chemical class 0.000 claims abstract description 27
- 238000002360 preparation method Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 24
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- DOIRQSBPFJWKBE-UHFFFAOYSA-N dibutyl phthalate Chemical class CCCCOC(=O)C1=CC=CC=C1C(=O)OCCCC DOIRQSBPFJWKBE-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 7
- 238000009987 spinning Methods 0.000 claims description 7
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- PPBRXRYQALVLMV-UHFFFAOYSA-N Styrene Chemical compound C=CC1=CC=CC=C1 PPBRXRYQALVLMV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 6
- 239000000654 additive Substances 0.000 claims description 6
- 230000000996 additive effect Effects 0.000 claims description 6
- QVGXLLKOCUKJST-UHFFFAOYSA-N atomic oxygen Chemical compound [O] QVGXLLKOCUKJST-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 6
- 238000004061 bleaching Methods 0.000 claims description 6
- 230000000740 bleeding effect Effects 0.000 claims description 6
- 238000009835 boiling Methods 0.000 claims description 6
- 238000009990 desizing Methods 0.000 claims description 6
- 230000002045 lasting effect Effects 0.000 claims description 6
- 238000009992 mercerising Methods 0.000 claims description 6
- 229910052760 oxygen Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 6
- 239000001301 oxygen Substances 0.000 claims description 6
- 229920000728 polyester Polymers 0.000 claims description 6
- 239000000344 soap Substances 0.000 claims description 6
- 239000003381 stabilizer Substances 0.000 claims description 6
- 239000003995 emulsifying agent Substances 0.000 claims description 5
- OKTJSMMVPCPJKN-UHFFFAOYSA-N Carbon Chemical compound [C] OKTJSMMVPCPJKN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 4
- 229910052799 carbon Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 4
- 239000004359 castor oil Substances 0.000 claims description 4
- 235000019438 castor oil Nutrition 0.000 claims description 4
- POULHZVOKOAJMA-UHFFFAOYSA-M dodecanoate Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCC([O-])=O POULHZVOKOAJMA-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 claims description 4
- ZEMPKEQAKRGZGQ-XOQCFJPHSA-N glycerol triricinoleate Natural products CCCCCC[C@@H](O)CC=CCCCCCCCC(=O)OC[C@@H](COC(=O)CCCCCCCC=CC[C@@H](O)CCCCCC)OC(=O)CCCCCCCC=CC[C@H](O)CCCCCC ZEMPKEQAKRGZGQ-XOQCFJPHSA-N 0.000 claims description 4
- 238000010438 heat treatment Methods 0.000 claims description 4
- 229940070765 laurate Drugs 0.000 claims description 4
- 229940051841 polyoxyethylene ether Drugs 0.000 claims description 4
- 229920000056 polyoxyethylene ether Polymers 0.000 claims description 4
- 229920002818 (Hydroxyethyl)methacrylate Polymers 0.000 claims description 3
- 241000931143 Gleditsia sinensis Species 0.000 claims description 3
- WOBHKFSMXKNTIM-UHFFFAOYSA-N Hydroxyethyl methacrylate Chemical class CC(=C)C(=O)OCCO WOBHKFSMXKNTIM-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 3
- 229910019142 PO4 Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 3
- 239000002202 Polyethylene glycol Substances 0.000 claims description 3
- VMHLLURERBWHNL-UHFFFAOYSA-M Sodium acetate Chemical compound [Na+].CC([O-])=O VMHLLURERBWHNL-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 claims description 3
- XTXRWKRVRITETP-UHFFFAOYSA-N Vinyl acetate Chemical class CC(=O)OC=C XTXRWKRVRITETP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 3
- 238000007664 blowing Methods 0.000 claims description 3
- 238000004140 cleaning Methods 0.000 claims description 3
- 239000003999 initiator Substances 0.000 claims description 3
- 239000000203 mixture Substances 0.000 claims description 3
- 239000010452 phosphate Substances 0.000 claims description 3
- 229920001223 polyethylene glycol Polymers 0.000 claims description 3
- 229920000036 polyvinylpyrrolidone Polymers 0.000 claims description 3
- 235000013855 polyvinylpyrrolidone Nutrition 0.000 claims description 3
- 150000003839 salts Chemical class 0.000 claims description 3
- 239000011265 semifinished product Substances 0.000 claims description 3
- 239000001632 sodium acetate Substances 0.000 claims description 3
- 235000017281 sodium acetate Nutrition 0.000 claims description 3
- FQENQNTWSFEDLI-UHFFFAOYSA-J sodium diphosphate Chemical class [Na+].[Na+].[Na+].[Na+].[O-]P([O-])(=O)OP([O-])([O-])=O FQENQNTWSFEDLI-UHFFFAOYSA-J 0.000 claims description 3
- 125000004079 stearyl group Chemical group [H]C([*])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])[H] 0.000 claims description 3
- 208000011580 syndromic disease Diseases 0.000 claims description 3
- 125000000999 tert-butyl group Chemical group [H]C([H])([H])C(*)(C([H])([H])[H])C([H])([H])[H] 0.000 claims description 3
- 235000019818 tetrasodium diphosphate Nutrition 0.000 claims description 3
- 150000003626 triacylglycerols Chemical class 0.000 claims description 3
- XOOUIPVCVHRTMJ-UHFFFAOYSA-L zinc stearate Chemical class [Zn+2].CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC([O-])=O.CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC([O-])=O XOOUIPVCVHRTMJ-UHFFFAOYSA-L 0.000 claims description 3
- 238000004945 emulsification Methods 0.000 claims description 2
- 150000003022 phthalic acids Chemical class 0.000 claims 1
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- 230000000694 effects Effects 0.000 abstract description 10
- 238000010792 warming Methods 0.000 abstract description 5
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- 238000001556 precipitation Methods 0.000 description 3
- VQLYBLABXAHUDN-UHFFFAOYSA-N bis(4-fluorophenyl)-methyl-(1,2,4-triazol-1-ylmethyl)silane;methyl n-(1h-benzimidazol-2-yl)carbamate Chemical compound C1=CC=C2NC(NC(=O)OC)=NC2=C1.C=1C=C(F)C=CC=1[Si](C=1C=CC(F)=CC=1)(C)CN1C=NC=N1 VQLYBLABXAHUDN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
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- 241000894006 Bacteria Species 0.000 description 1
- 241001391944 Commicarpus scandens Species 0.000 description 1
- PEDCQBHIVMGVHV-UHFFFAOYSA-N Glycerine Chemical compound OCC(O)CO PEDCQBHIVMGVHV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229920006197 POE laurate Polymers 0.000 description 1
- ZLMJMSJWJFRBEC-UHFFFAOYSA-N Potassium Chemical compound [K] ZLMJMSJWJFRBEC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- NIXOWILDQLNWCW-UHFFFAOYSA-N acrylic acid group Chemical group C(C=C)(=O)O NIXOWILDQLNWCW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- KKEYFWRCBNTPAC-UHFFFAOYSA-N benzene-dicarboxylic acid Natural products OC(=O)C1=CC=C(C(O)=O)C=C1 KKEYFWRCBNTPAC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
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Landscapes
- Multicomponent Fibers (AREA)
Abstract
The present invention provides a kind of manufacture method of plaiting openwork jacquard cloth, and the Compound Fabric produced is ventilative, warming, moisture pick-up properties is good, and the first component and the second component junction intensity are good, and antibacterial effect might as well.Plaiting openwork jacquard cloth is made up of jacquard weave layer of cloth, ventilative layer of cloth and lining layer；Jacquard weave layer of cloth is fixed on the upper surface of ventilative layer of cloth, and lining layer is fixed on the lower surface of ventilative layer of cloth.Manufacture method includes preparation technology, the preparation technology of ventilative layer of cloth, lining layer preparation technology, the preparation technology of parallel composite fiber yarn, the preparation technology of hollowfil yarns, the preparation technology of core-sheath compound fibre yarn of jacquard weave layer of cloth, improvement is made that to aspects such as parameter, flow, structure, materials in above-mentioned technique, better effect has been reached.
Description
Technical field
The present invention relates to a kind of manufacture method of plaiting openwork jacquard cloth, the plaiting openwork jacquard cloth is used to make clothes.
Background technology
Parallel composite fiber：The composite fibre of fiber both sides is respectively in along two kinds of longitudinal direction of fiber component polymer, also known as
Bilateral structure type and first quarter moon fiber type, two components can be with equivalent, it is also possible to inequality.To prevent two component polymer interfaces from shelling
From, improve fibre property, the different polymer of two component properties is generally same class polymer, to increase interface between two components polymerization
The compatibility of thing.Two kinds of polymer is simultaneously listed on fibre section radially and column distribution, due to two kinds of mal-distributions of component,
Generation shrinks poor after the fiber drawn for spinning and heat treatment, so that fiber produces helical form curling.It is made up of two kinds of differences
The parallel type acrylic composite fiber that is made of acrylonitrile copolymer, with good curling stability, its elasticity and bulkiness and
Wool is similar to.Polyamide-based parallel composite fiber monofilament can be used to manufacture silk stocking and other knitwear.
Applicant applied for the Chinese patent of a Application No. 201520323253.2 on May 19th, 2015.Rear
Found in continuous research, when it is applied to the plaiting openwork jacquard cloth with permeability, the first component and the second component are connected
The intensity at place has to be strengthened, and the structure of the second component can also be changed to increase diversity.
Also, the plaiting openwork jacquard cloth that the manufacture method of prior art is produced is in the side such as ventilative, warming, moisture pick-up properties
Face has much room for improvement.
The content of the invention
It is an object of the invention to overcome above shortcomings in the prior art, and provide a kind of plaiting reasonable in design
The manufacture method of openwork jacquard cloth, the plaiting openwork jacquard cloth produced is ventilative, warming, moisture pick-up properties is good, and the first component
It is good with the second component junction intensity.
The present invention the used technical scheme that solves the above problems is：A kind of manufacture method of plaiting openwork jacquard cloth, institute
The plaiting openwork jacquard cloth stated is made up of jacquard weave layer of cloth, ventilative layer of cloth and lining layer；Jacquard weave layer of cloth is fixed on the upper of ventilative layer of cloth
Surface, lining layer is fixed on the lower surface of ventilative layer of cloth；
It is characterized in that：Manufacture method comprises the following steps：
First, the preparation technology of jacquard weave layer of cloth comprises the following steps：
（1）, warp and parallel use hollowfil yarns；It is 50/cm through density, weft density is 45/cm；
（2）, warp and parallel be woven into embryo cloth；
（3）, embryo cloth dyeed, comprise the following steps：
（31）, embryo cloth sequentially pass through singe, desizing oxygen bleaching, mercerising, sizing；
（32）, dyeing pretreatment is carried out to embryo cloth after sizing：Embryo cloth is put into dye vat, dye bath PH values are 5, and dye bath is opened
Beginning temperature is 25 DEG C, is then heated up with the speed of 5 DEG C/min, until dye bath temperature reaches 70 DEG C, then lasting 2.5min；
（33）, embryo cloth dyeed：The constituent and its parts by weight that dyestuff, dyestuff is added in dye vat be：
7 parts of sodium pyrophosphates, 3 parts of dibutyl phthalates, 4 parts of barba hispanicas, 2 parts of tetramines of dinitroso penta, 5 parts of dimethyl methyls
Acid amides, 7 parts of ethyl acetate, 7 parts of peroxidized t-butyl perbenzoates, 8 parts of HMMMs, 25 parts of water, 2 parts the third three
Alcohol, 6 parts of initiators, 7 parts of polyvinylpyrrolidones, 5 parts of butyl methacrylates；
Dyeing time 3.5 hours, 55 DEG C of dyeing temperature；
（34）, dyeing cleaned and dried after finishing；
（4）, the embryo cloth after dyeing is made jacquard weave layer of cloth；
2nd, the preparation technology of ventilative layer of cloth comprises the following steps：
（1）, warp and parallel use parallel composite fiber yarn；It is 88/cm through density, weft density is 50/cm；
（2）, warp and parallel be woven into embryo cloth；
（3）, embryo cloth dyeed, comprise the following steps：
（31）, embryo cloth sequentially pass through singe, desizing oxygen bleaching, mercerising, sizing；
（32）, dyeing pretreatment is carried out to embryo cloth after sizing：Embryo cloth is put into dye vat, dye bath PH values are 5, and dye bath is opened
Beginning temperature is 20 DEG C, is then heated up with the speed of 5 DEG C/min, until dye bath temperature reaches 75 DEG C, then lasting 1.5min；
（33）, embryo cloth dyeed：The constituent and its parts by weight that dyestuff, dyestuff is added in dye vat be：
7 parts of hydroxyethyl methacrylates, 7 parts of butyl methacrylates, 9 parts of zinc stearates, 4 parts of barba hispanicas, 6 parts of O-phthalics
Dibutyl phthalate, 3 parts of triglycerides, 2 parts of styrene, 3 parts of vinyl acetates, 1 part of sodium acetate, 3 parts of polyethylene glycol, 55 parts of water；
Dyeing time 3.5 hours, 55 DEG C of dyeing temperature；
（34）, dyeing cleaned and dried after finishing；
（4）, be made ventilative layer of cloth by the embryo cloth after dyeing is logical；
3rd, lining layer preparation technology comprises the following steps：
（1）, warp and parallel use core-sheath compound fibre yarn；Through density be 95/cm, weft density be 95/
cm；
（2）, warp and parallel be woven into embryo cloth；
（3）, embryo cloth dyeed, its step is：
（31）, embryo cloth is put into dye liquor, dyeing time 1 hour, 65 DEG C of dyeing temperature；
（32）, with salt promote contaminate, continue dye 0.5 hour；
（33）, add the aldehyde-free colour stabilizer KS to carry out fixation, aldehyde-free colour stabilizer KS consumptions are 15g/L；
（34）, cleaning embryo cloth；
（35）, carry out soap boiling to embryo cloth in the solution containing gleditsia sinensis 0.2g/L, soap boiling temperature is 55 DEG C；
（36）, clean embryo cloth again；
（4）, the embryo cloth after dyeing is made lining layer；
The preparation technology of the 4th, described parallel composite fiber yarn comprises the following steps：
（1）, using composite spinning technology, inherent viscosity is the High Viscosity PET section of 1.12dl/g and inherent viscosity is
The low viscosity PET sections of 0.8dl/g carry out crystallizing and drying respectively；
（2）, two kinds of PET section carried out respectively to be sprayed by spinneret after melt extruded to form parallel composite fiber monofilament；
Parallel composite fiber monofilament is made up of the first component and the second component, and the first component is connected with the second component；First
Component is made up of excellent curved portions, bad curved portions and supporting part；The two ends of excellent curved portions are connected with the two ends of bad curved portions, major arc shape
Portion and bad curved portions surround the first component cavity；The cross section of excellent curved portions is major arc shape, and the cross section of bad curved portions is minor arc
Shape, the cross section of the first component cavity is crescent；Support zone in the first component cavity, its one end and excellent curved portions phase
Even, the other end is connected with bad curved portions, and the first component cavity is divided into two parts by supporting part；The cross section of supporting part is square
Shape；The first groove is provided with bad curved portions；Second component is made up of D-shaped portion and connecting portion；The cross section in D-shaped portion is D fonts；
Connecting portion one end is connected with D-shaped portion, and the other end is connected with excellent curved portions；The second groove is provided with connecting portion；In connecting portion
Portion is provided with waist-shaped hole；In parallel composite fiber monofilament, the weight ratio of the first component and the second component is 35:65；High Viscosity PET is cut
Piece is fabricated to the first component of parallel composite fiber monofilament；Low viscosity PET microsection manufactures into parallel composite fiber monofilament second
Component；
（3）, spinneret spray after tow using cooling wind cooled down, cooling air temperature be 15 DEG C, humidity is 80%,
Wind speed 0.8m/s；
（4）, drawing-off is carried out to the tow after cooling, the temperature of semi-finished product is 100 DEG C during drawing-off, and draw ratio is 3, drawing-off speed
It is 300m/min to spend；
（5）, the tow after counter extensioin be heat-treated using blowing mode, 110 DEG C of wind-warm syndrome, time 30min；
（6）, parallel composite fiber yarn is made by subsequent technique after heat treatment；
5th, the preparation technology of described hollowfil yarns comprises the following steps：
（1）, by terylene chips by being dried, the moisture content of terylene chips is less than 28ppm after drying；
（2）, will be melted by dried terylene chips, obtain terylene melt；
（3）, terylene melt sprayed by spinneret form doughnut monofilament；
Described doughnut monofilament is made up of periphery body and centerbody；The cross section of periphery body is annular, periphery body
On be provided with the 3rd groove；Centerbody is located in the body of periphery, and centerbody cross section is cross；Doughnut monofilament is provided with hollow fibre
Dimension monofilament hole；The cross section in doughnut monofilament hole is sector；
（4）, spinneret spray after tow using cooling wind cooled down, cooling air temperature be 30 DEG C, humidity is 80%,
Wind speed 1m/s；
（5）, the tow after cooling oiled with finish；The constituent and its parts by weight of finish be：40 parts of smooth agent,
25 parts of emulsifying agent, 6 parts of antistatic additive, 2 parts of bleeding agent, 150 parts of water；
Smooth agent is quaternary alcohol ester；
The constituent and its parts by weight of emulsifying agent be：10 parts of castor oil polyoxyethylene ether, laurate APEO
50 parts；
The constituent and its parts by weight of antistatic additive be：40 parts of octadecyl alcolol phosphate kalium salt, 2 parts of potassium hydroxide, water
120 parts；
The constituent and its parts by weight of bleeding agent be：50 parts of eight alcohol APEO of carbon, 30 parts of APEO；
（6）, the tow after oiling is made hollowfil yarns；
The preparation technology of the 6th, described core-sheath compound fibre yarn comprises the following steps：
（1）, using composite spinning technology, PET sections and PTT slice are carried out into pre-crystallized drying respectively；
（2）, two kinds of sections are carried out respectively to spray shape core-sheath compound fibre monofilament by spinneret after melt extruded；
Described core-sheath compound fibre yarn is spun into by core-sheath compound fibre monofilament；Core-sheath compound fibre monofilament
The outer contour of the cross section of cortex is circle, and the outer contour of the cross section of sandwich layer is identical and end to end by four radiuses
Semicircle is constituted；
Cortex is PTT polyester, and sandwich layer is PET polyester；
（3）, core-sheath compound fibre monofilament is made core-sheath compound fibre yarn by subsequent technique.
Groove of the present invention is deep-slotted chip breaker.
Groove of the present invention is a plurality of, is be arranged in parallel.
Groove of the present invention is two, is be arranged in parallel opposite to each other up and down.
Doughnut monofilament hole of the present invention is 4, and uniform ring is centrally disposed around doughnut monofilament.
The present invention compared with prior art, with advantages below and effect：The plaiting openwork jacquard cloth that the present invention is produced
Ventilative, warming, moisture pick-up properties is good；The structure of the first component and the second component causes ventilative, warming, moisture pick-up properties of the invention
Good, the clothes people dress of making is more comfortable；And ventilative layer of cloth can play permeation functions；Strengthen the first component and second group
Divide the intensity of junction, it is not easy to break；Lining layer laminating skin or underwear, more comfortably.
Brief description of the drawings
Fig. 1 is the structural representation of plaiting openwork jacquard cloth of the invention.
Fig. 2 is the cross-sectional structure schematic diagram of doughnut monofilament of the invention.
Fig. 3 is the cross-sectional structure schematic diagram of parallel composite fiber monofilament of the invention.
Fig. 4 is the cross-sectional structure schematic diagram of core-sheath compound fibre monofilament of the invention.
Specific embodiment
The present invention is described in further detail below in conjunction with the accompanying drawings and by embodiment, and following examples are to this hair
Bright explanation and the invention is not limited in following examples.
Referring to Fig. 1~Fig. 4, a kind of manufacture method of plaiting openwork jacquard cloth, the plaiting openwork jacquard cloth is by layer of cloth of breathing freely
13rd, jacquard weave layer of cloth 12 and lining layer 14 are constituted, and jacquard weave layer of cloth 12 is fixed on the upper surface of ventilative layer of cloth 13 using suture way, inner
Layer of cloth 14 is fixed on the lower surface of ventilative layer of cloth 13 using suture way.
Manufacture method comprises the following steps：
First, the preparation technology of jacquard weave layer of cloth 12 comprises the following steps：
（1）, warp and parallel use hollowfil yarns；It is 50/cm through density, weft density is 45/cm；
（2）, warp and parallel be woven into embryo cloth；
（3）, embryo cloth dyeed, comprise the following steps：
（31）, embryo cloth sequentially pass through singe, desizing oxygen bleaching, mercerising, sizing；
（32）, dyeing pretreatment is carried out to embryo cloth after sizing：Embryo cloth is put into dye vat, dye bath PH values are 5, and dye bath is opened
Beginning temperature is 25 DEG C, is then heated up with the speed of 5 DEG C/min, until dye bath temperature reaches 70 DEG C, then lasting 2.5min；
5 pH value can improve dyeing speed and dye uptake；Said temperature and temperature-rise period can effectively prevent from producing
Add lustre to flower；
（33）, embryo cloth dyeed：The constituent and its parts by weight that dyestuff, dyestuff is added in dye vat be：
7 parts of sodium pyrophosphates, 3 parts of dibutyl phthalates, 4 parts of barba hispanicas, 2 parts of tetramines of dinitroso penta, 5 parts of dimethyl methyls
Acid amides, 7 parts of ethyl acetate, 7 parts of peroxidized t-butyl perbenzoates, 8 parts of HMMMs, 25 parts of water, 2 parts the third three
Alcohol, 6 parts of initiators, 7 parts of polyvinylpyrrolidones, 5 parts of butyl methacrylates；
Dyeing time 3.5 hours, 55 DEG C of dyeing temperature.
（34）, dyeing cleaned and dried after finishing.
（4）, the embryo cloth after dyeing is made jacquard weave layer of cloth 12 by subsequent technique.The subsequent technique can use existing skill
Art.
2nd, the preparation technology of ventilative layer of cloth 13 comprises the following steps：
（1）, warp and parallel use parallel composite fiber yarn；It is 88/cm through density, weft density is 50/cm；
（2）, warp and parallel be woven into embryo cloth；
（3）, embryo cloth dyeed, comprise the following steps：
（31）, embryo cloth sequentially pass through singe, desizing oxygen bleaching, mercerising, sizing；
（32）, dyeing pretreatment is carried out to embryo cloth after sizing：Embryo cloth is put into dye vat, dye bath PH values are 5, and dye bath is opened
Beginning temperature is 20 DEG C, is then heated up with the speed of 5 DEG C/min, until dye bath temperature reaches 75 DEG C, then lasting 1.5min；
5 pH value can improve dyeing speed and dye uptake；Said temperature and temperature-rise period can effectively prevent from producing
Add lustre to flower；
（33）, embryo cloth dyeed：The constituent and its parts by weight that dyestuff, dyestuff is added in dye vat be：
7 parts of hydroxyethyl methacrylates, 7 parts of butyl methacrylates, 9 parts of zinc stearates, 4 parts of barba hispanicas, 6 parts of O-phthalics
Dibutyl phthalate, 3 parts of triglycerides, 2 parts of styrene, 3 parts of vinyl acetates, 1 part of sodium acetate, 3 parts of polyethylene glycol, 55 parts of water.
Dyeing time 3.5 hours, 55 DEG C of dyeing temperature.
（34）, dyeing cleaned and dried after finishing.
（4）, the embryo cloth after dyeing is made ventilative layer of cloth 13 by subsequent technique.The subsequent technique can use existing skill
Art.
3rd, 14 preparation technology of lining layer comprise the following steps：
（1）, warp and parallel use core-sheath compound fibre yarn；Through density be 95/cm, weft density be 95/
cm；
（2）, warp and parallel be woven into embryo cloth；
（3）, embryo cloth dyeed, its step is：
（31）, embryo cloth is put into dye liquor, dyeing time 1 hour, 65 DEG C of dyeing temperature；
（32）, with salt promote contaminate, continue dye 0.5 hour；
（33）, add the aldehyde-free colour stabilizer KS to carry out fixation, aldehyde-free colour stabilizer KS consumptions are 15g/L；
（34）, cleaning embryo cloth；
（35）, carry out soap boiling to embryo cloth in the solution containing gleditsia sinensis 0.2g/L, soap boiling temperature is 55 DEG C；
（36）, clean embryo cloth again；
（4）, the embryo cloth after dyeing is made lining layer 14；
4th, the preparation technology of parallel composite fiber yarn comprises the following steps：
（1）, using composite spinning technology, inherent viscosity is the High Viscosity PET section of 1.12dl/g and inherent viscosity is
The low viscosity PET sections of 0.8dl/g carry out crystallizing and drying respectively.
（2）, two kinds of PET section carried out respectively to be sprayed by spinneret after melt extruded to form parallel composite fiber monofilament；
Parallel composite fiber monofilament is made up of the first component 1 and the second component 2, and the first component 1 is connected with the second component 2.
First component 1 and the second component 2 are made of polyethylene terephthalate；Or, the first component 1 uses poly terephthalic acid
Glycol ester is made, and the second component 2 is made of polybutylene terephthalate (PBT).
First component 1 is made up of excellent curved portions 3, bad curved portions 4 and supporting part 5.
The two ends of excellent curved portions 3 are connected with the two ends of bad curved portions 4, and excellent curved portions 3 and bad curved portions 4 surround one first
Component cavity 6.The cross section of excellent curved portions 3 is major arc shape, and the cross section of bad curved portions 4 is minor arc shape, the first component cavity 6
Cross section is crescent.The structure of excellent curved portions 3 and bad curved portions 4, the indent of bad curved portions 4 can increase gas permeability.First group
Dividing cavity 6 reduces the weight of fiber so that the weight of cloth is lighter, and the clothes people dress of making is more comfortable, and first
The interior energy of component cavity 6 includes a large amount of still airs, cloth is had relatively good thermal property while light.
Supporting part 5 is located in the first component cavity 6, and its one end is connected with excellent curved portions 3, the other end and the phase of bad curved portions 4
Even, the first component cavity 6 is divided into two parts by supporting part 5.Supporting part 5 can play support to excellent curved portions 3 and bad curved portions 4
Effect, prevent fiber receive extruding after deform.The cross section of supporting part 5 is rectangle, and support effect is preferable.
The first groove 7 is provided with bad curved portions 4, the first groove 7 is conducive to the precipitation of dyestuff, facilitates stock-dye, and
And with moisture pick-up properties, increased the hygroscopicity of fiber.First groove 7 is deep-slotted chip breaker, can reach good effect.First groove
7 is a plurality of, is be arranged in parallel, can reach good effect.
Second component 2 is made up of D-shaped portion 8 and connecting portion 9.
The cross section in D-shaped portion 8 is D fonts, and such second component 2 is just provided with the characteristic of D-section fiber, breathes freely, protects
Warm, these Performance comparisions of moisture absorption are good.D-shaped surface is smooth, is difficult particle-bound bacteria and dirt.
The one end of connecting portion 9 is connected with D-shaped portion 8, and the other end is connected with excellent curved portions 3.Connecting portion 9 can strengthen the first component 1
With the intensity of the connected component of the second component 2.
The second groove 10 is provided with connecting portion 9, the second groove 10 is conducive to the precipitation of dyestuff, facilitates stock-dye, and
And with moisture absorption air guide performance, increased the moisture absorption air guide of fiber.Second groove 10 is two, is be arranged in parallel opposite to each other up and down,
Good effect can be reached.Second groove 10 is deep-slotted chip breaker.
The middle part of connecting portion 9 is provided with waist-shaped hole 11, and the cross section of waist-shaped hole 11 is waist type.When the first component 1 and second group
When dividing 2 local inclination, connecting portion 9 also bends, and waist-shaped hole 11 can play a part of a buffering to connecting portion 9, prevent
Its failure by rupture.
In parallel composite fiber monofilament, the weight ratio of the first component and the second component is 35:65；High Viscosity PET section system
It is made the first component of parallel composite fiber monofilament；Second component of the low viscosity PET microsection manufactures into parallel composite fiber monofilament.
（3）, spinneret spray after tow using cooling wind cooled down, cooling air temperature be 15 DEG C, humidity is 80%,
Wind speed 0.8m/s.
（4）, drawing-off is carried out to the tow after cooling, the temperature of semi-finished product is 100 DEG C during drawing-off, and draw ratio is 3, drawing-off speed
It is 300m/min to spend.
（5）, the tow after counter extensioin be heat-treated using blowing mode, 110 DEG C of wind-warm syndrome, time 30min.
（6）, parallel composite fiber yarn is made by subsequent technique after heat treatment.The subsequent technique can use existing skill
Art.
5th, the preparation technology of hollowfil yarns comprises the following steps：
（1）, by terylene chips by being dried, the moisture content of terylene chips is less than 28ppm after drying.
（2）, will be melted by dried terylene chips, obtain terylene melt.
（3）, terylene melt sprayed by spinneret form doughnut monofilament.
The doughnut monofilament is made up of periphery body 15 and centerbody 16.
The cross section of periphery body 15 is annular.So the outer surface of doughnut monofilament is just excellent with ordinary fiber
Point.The 3rd groove 20 is provided with periphery body 15, the 3rd groove 20 is conducive to the precipitation of dyestuff, facilitates stock-dye, and tool
There is moisture absorption air guide performance, increased the moisture absorption air guide of fiber.
Centerbody 16 is located in periphery body 15, and its cross section is cross.
Doughnut monofilament is provided with doughnut monofilament hole 17.Doughnut monofilament hole 17 reduces the weight of fiber, makes
The weight for obtaining cloth is lighter, and the clothes people dress of making is more comfortable, and gas permeability is more preferable, and in doughnut monofilament hole 17
A large amount of still airs can be included, cloth is had relatively good thermal property concurrently while ventilative.
The cross section in doughnut monofilament hole 17 is sector, and not only the optical effect of internal refraction is good, and it is special to give
Feel, and warmth retention property is good.
Doughnut monofilament hole 17 is 4, around the centrally disposed of doughnut monofilament, and is uniform ring around hollow fibre
Tie up the centrally disposed of monofilament.3rd groove 20 is 4, and 4 the 3rd grooves 20 are relative with 4 doughnut monofilament holes 17 respectively.
（4）, spinneret spray after tow using cooling wind cooled down, cooling air temperature be 30 DEG C, humidity is 80%,
Wind speed 1m/s.
（5）, the tow after cooling oiled with finish；The constituent and its parts by weight of finish be：40 parts of smooth agent,
25 parts of emulsifying agent, 6 parts of antistatic additive, 2 parts of bleeding agent, 150 parts of water.
Smooth agent is quaternary alcohol ester；Quaternary alcohol ester can improve friction and the Lubricity of fiber；
The constituent and its parts by weight of emulsifying agent be：10 parts of castor oil polyoxyethylene ether, laurate APEO
50 parts；Castor oil polyoxyethylene ether and laurate APEO cause finish more uniform stabilization when in use, emulsification effect
Fruit is more preferably；
The constituent and its parts by weight of antistatic additive be：40 parts of octadecyl alcolol phosphate kalium salt, 2 parts of potassium hydroxide, water
120 parts；The cation for strengthening potassium of potassium hydroxide, strengthens anlistatig effect；
The constituent and its parts by weight of bleeding agent be：50 parts of eight alcohol APEO of carbon, 30 parts of APEO.Carbon
Eight alcohol APEOs and APEO can cause that finish has stronger scouring of wool effect.
（6）, the tow after oiling is made hollowfil yarns by subsequent technique.The subsequent technique can use existing skill
Art.
6th, the preparation technology of core-sheath compound fibre yarn comprises the following steps：
（1）, using composite spinning technology, PET sections and PTT slice are carried out into pre-crystallized drying respectively；
（2）, two kinds of sections are carried out respectively to spray shape core-sheath compound fibre monofilament by spinneret after melt extruded；
The outer contour of the cross section of the cortex 18 of core-sheath compound fibre monofilament is circle, such core-sheath compound fibre
The outer surface of monofilament just has the advantages that ordinary fiber.
The outer contour of the cross section of the sandwich layer 19 of core-sheath compound fibre monofilament is identical by four radiuses and joins end to end
Semicircle composition, the optical effect of the preferable internal refraction of producing ratio.
Cortex 18 is PTT polyester, and sandwich layer 19 is PET polyester；
（3）, core-sheath compound fibre monofilament is made core-sheath compound fibre yarn by subsequent technique.The subsequent technique
Prior art can be used.
Furthermore, it is necessary to explanation, the specific embodiment described in this specification, is named the shape of its parts and components
Claiming etc. can be with difference, and the above content described in this specification is only to structure example explanation of the present invention.
Claims (2)
1. a kind of manufacture method of plaiting openwork jacquard cloth, described plaiting openwork jacquard cloth by jacquard weave layer of cloth, ventilative layer of cloth and
Lining layer composition；Jacquard weave layer of cloth is fixed on the upper surface of ventilative layer of cloth, and lining layer is fixed on the lower surface of ventilative layer of cloth；
It is characterized in that：Manufacture method comprises the following steps：
First, the preparation technology of jacquard weave layer of cloth comprises the following steps：
（1）, warp and parallel use hollowfil yarns；It is 50/cm through density, weft density is 45/cm；
（2）, warp and parallel be woven into embryo cloth；
（3）, embryo cloth dyeed, comprise the following steps：
（31）, embryo cloth sequentially pass through singe, desizing oxygen bleaching, mercerising, sizing；
（32）, dyeing pretreatment is carried out to embryo cloth after sizing：Embryo cloth is put into dye vat, dye bath PH values are 5, and dye bath starts temperature
It is 25 DEG C to spend, and is then heated up with the speed of 5 DEG C/min, until dye bath temperature reaches 70 DEG C, then lasting 2.5min；
（33）, embryo cloth dyeed：The constituent and its parts by weight that dyestuff, dyestuff is added in dye vat be：
7 parts of sodium pyrophosphates, 3 parts of dibutyl phthalates, 4 parts of barba hispanicas, 2 parts of tetramines of dinitroso penta, 5 parts of dimethyl formyls
Amine, 7 parts of ethyl acetate, 7 parts of peroxidized t-butyl perbenzoates, 8 parts of HMMMs, 25 parts of water, 2 parts the third three
Alcohol, 6 parts of initiators, 7 parts of polyvinylpyrrolidones, 5 parts of butyl methacrylates；
Dyeing time 3.5 hours, 55 DEG C of dyeing temperature；
（34）, dyeing cleaned and dried after finishing；
（4）, the embryo cloth after dyeing is made jacquard weave layer of cloth；
2nd, the preparation technology of ventilative layer of cloth comprises the following steps：
（1）, warp and parallel use parallel composite fiber yarn；It is 88/cm through density, weft density is 50/cm；
（2）, warp and parallel be woven into embryo cloth；
（3）, embryo cloth dyeed, comprise the following steps：
（31）, embryo cloth sequentially pass through singe, desizing oxygen bleaching, mercerising, sizing；
（32）, dyeing pretreatment is carried out to embryo cloth after sizing：Embryo cloth is put into dye vat, dye bath PH values are 5, and dye bath starts temperature
It is 20 DEG C to spend, and is then heated up with the speed of 5 DEG C/min, until dye bath temperature reaches 75 DEG C, then lasting 1.5min；
（33）, embryo cloth dyeed：The constituent and its parts by weight that dyestuff, dyestuff is added in dye vat be：
7 parts of hydroxyethyl methacrylates, 7 parts of butyl methacrylates, 9 parts of zinc stearates, 4 parts of barba hispanicas, 6 parts of phthalic acids two
Butyl ester, 3 parts of triglycerides, 2 parts of styrene, 3 parts of vinyl acetates, 1 part of sodium acetate, 3 parts of polyethylene glycol, 55 parts of water；
Dyeing time 3.5 hours, 55 DEG C of dyeing temperature；
（34）, dyeing cleaned and dried after finishing；
（4）, the embryo cloth after dyeing is made ventilative layer of cloth；
3rd, lining layer preparation technology comprises the following steps：
（1）, warp and parallel use core-sheath compound fibre yarn；It is 95/cm through density, weft density is 95/cm；
（2）, warp and parallel be woven into embryo cloth；
（3）, embryo cloth dyeed, its step is：
（31）, embryo cloth is put into dye liquor, dyeing time 1 hour, 65 DEG C of dyeing temperature；
（32）, with salt promote contaminate, continue dye 0.5 hour；
（33）, add the aldehyde-free colour stabilizer KS to carry out fixation, aldehyde-free colour stabilizer KS consumptions are 15g/L；
（34）, cleaning embryo cloth；
（35）, carry out soap boiling to embryo cloth in the solution containing gleditsia sinensis 0.2g/L, soap boiling temperature is 55 DEG C；
（36）, clean embryo cloth again；
（4）, the embryo cloth after dyeing is made lining layer；
The preparation technology of the 4th, described parallel composite fiber yarn comprises the following steps：
（1）, using composite spinning technology, inherent viscosity is the High Viscosity PET section of 1.12dl/g and inherent viscosity is
The low viscosity PET sections of 0.8dl/g carry out crystallizing and drying respectively；
（2）, two kinds of PET section carried out respectively to be sprayed by spinneret after melt extruded to form parallel composite fiber monofilament；
Parallel composite fiber monofilament is made up of the first component and the second component, and the first component is connected with the second component；First component
It is made up of excellent curved portions, bad curved portions and supporting part；The two ends of excellent curved portions are connected with the two ends of bad curved portions, excellent curved portions and
Bad curved portions surround the first component cavity；The cross section of excellent curved portions is major arc shape, and the cross section of bad curved portions is minor arc shape, the
The cross section of one component cavity is crescent；Support zone is in the first component cavity, and its one end is connected with excellent curved portions, another
End is connected with bad curved portions, and the first component cavity is divided into two parts by supporting part；The cross section of supporting part is rectangle；In minor arc
The first groove is provided with shape portion；Second component is made up of D-shaped portion and connecting portion；The cross section in D-shaped portion is D fonts；Connecting portion one
End is connected with D-shaped portion, and the other end is connected with excellent curved portions；The second groove is provided with connecting portion；Waist is provided with the middle part of connecting portion
Type hole；In parallel composite fiber monofilament, the weight ratio of the first component and the second component is 35:65；High Viscosity PET microsection manufacture into
First component of parallel composite fiber monofilament；Second component of the low viscosity PET microsection manufactures into parallel composite fiber monofilament；
（3）, spinneret spray after tow using cooling wind cooled down, cooling air temperature be 15 DEG C, humidity is 80%, wind speed
0.8m/s；
（4）, drawing-off is carried out to the tow after cooling, the temperature of semi-finished product is 100 DEG C during drawing-off, and draw ratio is 3, and draft speed is
300m/min；
（5）, the tow after counter extensioin be heat-treated using blowing mode, 110 DEG C of wind-warm syndrome, time 30min；
（6）, parallel composite fiber yarn is made by subsequent technique after heat treatment；
5th, the preparation technology of described hollowfil yarns comprises the following steps：
（1）, terylene chips are dried, the moisture content of terylene chips is less than 28ppm after drying；
（2）, will be melted by dried terylene chips, obtain terylene melt；
（3）, terylene melt sprayed by spinneret form doughnut monofilament；
Described doughnut monofilament is made up of periphery body and centerbody；The cross section of periphery body is annular, is opened on the body of periphery
There is the 3rd groove；Centerbody is located in the body of periphery, and centerbody cross section is cross；Doughnut monofilament is provided with doughnut list
Silk hole；The cross section in doughnut monofilament hole is sector；
（4）, spinneret spray after tow using cooling wind cooled down, cooling air temperature be 30 DEG C, humidity is 80%, wind speed
1m/s；
（5）, the tow after cooling oiled with finish；The constituent and its parts by weight of finish be：40 parts of smooth agent, emulsification
25 parts of agent, 6 parts of antistatic additive, 2 parts of bleeding agent, 150 parts of water；
Smooth agent is quaternary alcohol ester；
The constituent and its parts by weight of emulsifying agent be：10 parts of castor oil polyoxyethylene ether, 50 parts of laurate APEO；
The constituent and its parts by weight of antistatic additive be：40 parts of octadecyl alcolol phosphate kalium salt, 2 parts of potassium hydroxide, water 120
Part；
The constituent and its parts by weight of bleeding agent be：50 parts of eight alcohol APEO of carbon, 30 parts of APEO；
（6）, the tow after oiling is made hollowfil yarns；
The preparation technology of the 6th, described core-sheath compound fibre yarn comprises the following steps：
（1）, using composite spinning technology, PET sections and PTT slice are carried out into pre-crystallized drying respectively；
（2）, two kinds of sections are carried out being sprayed by spinneret after melt extruded respectively forming core-sheath compound fibre monofilament；
Described core-sheath compound fibre yarn is spun into by core-sheath compound fibre monofilament；The cortex of core-sheath compound fibre monofilament
The outer contour of cross section be circle, the outer contour of the cross section of sandwich layer is by four radiuses are identical and end to end semicircle
Composition；
Cortex is PTT polyester, and sandwich layer is PET polyester；
（3）, core-sheath compound fibre monofilament is made core-sheath compound fibre yarn by subsequent technique.
2. the manufacture method of plaiting openwork jacquard cloth according to claim 1, it is characterised in that：Described doughnut list
Silk hole is 4, and uniform ring is centrally disposed around doughnut monofilament.
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| CN108360254A (en) * | 2018-04-25 | 2018-08-03 | 宁波大千纺织品有限公司 | A kind of functionality anti-fatigue health-caring knitting fabric and preparation method thereof |
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| CN201553814U (en) * | 2009-12-28 | 2010-08-18 | 吴江鹰翔万信化纤有限公司 | Porous hollow fiber |
| CN203256417U (en) * | 2013-04-23 | 2013-10-30 | 常州市汇森家用纺织品有限公司 | Figured cloth for costume manufacturing |
| CN103572399A (en) * | 2012-07-25 | 2014-02-12 | 东丽纤维研究所（中国）有限公司 | Skin-core type composite fiber and production method thereof |
| CN104358147A (en) * | 2014-10-20 | 2015-02-18 | 江苏金牛华尔车服饰有限公司 | Fabric coloring agent |
| CN204644563U (en) * | 2015-05-19 | 2015-09-16 | 嘉兴港恒针织有限公司 | Parallel composite fiber moisture absorption cloth |
| CN204659107U (en) * | 2015-05-19 | 2015-09-23 | 嘉兴港恒针织有限公司 | Double-layer cloth |
Family Cites Families (1)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
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| JP2010065348A (en) * | 2008-09-11 | 2010-03-25 | Toray Ind Inc | Method for producing polyester conjugated fiber |
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| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN201553814U (en) * | 2009-12-28 | 2010-08-18 | 吴江鹰翔万信化纤有限公司 | Porous hollow fiber |
| CN103572399A (en) * | 2012-07-25 | 2014-02-12 | 东丽纤维研究所（中国）有限公司 | Skin-core type composite fiber and production method thereof |
| CN203256417U (en) * | 2013-04-23 | 2013-10-30 | 常州市汇森家用纺织品有限公司 | Figured cloth for costume manufacturing |
| CN104358147A (en) * | 2014-10-20 | 2015-02-18 | 江苏金牛华尔车服饰有限公司 | Fabric coloring agent |
| CN204644563U (en) * | 2015-05-19 | 2015-09-16 | 嘉兴港恒针织有限公司 | Parallel composite fiber moisture absorption cloth |
| CN204659107U (en) * | 2015-05-19 | 2015-09-23 | 嘉兴港恒针织有限公司 | Double-layer cloth |
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Denomination of invention: A manufacturing method of yarn adding mesh jacquard cloth Effective date of registration: 20210721 Granted publication date: 20170613 Pledgee: Zhejiang Tongxiang rural commercial bank Limited by Share Ltd. Longxiang sub branch Pledgor: Jiaxing Gangheng Kintting Co.,Ltd. Registration number: Y2021330000974 |
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Date of cancellation: 20220803 Granted publication date: 20170613 Pledgee: Zhejiang Tongxiang rural commercial bank Limited by Share Ltd. Longxiang sub branch Pledgor: Jiaxing Gangheng Kintting Co.,Ltd. Registration number: Y2021330000974 |
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Denomination of invention: A kind of manufacturing method of plated mesh jacquard cloth Effective date of registration: 20220915 Granted publication date: 20170613 Pledgee: Zhejiang Tongxiang rural commercial bank Limited by Share Ltd. Longxiang sub branch Pledgor: Jiaxing Gangheng Kintting Co.,Ltd. Registration number: Y2022330002241 |