CN104902868A - Solid powder cosmetic - Google Patents

Solid powder cosmetic Download PDF

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Publication number
CN104902868A
CN104902868A CN201380068645.2A CN201380068645A CN104902868A CN 104902868 A CN104902868 A CN 104902868A CN 201380068645 A CN201380068645 A CN 201380068645A CN 104902868 A CN104902868 A CN 104902868A
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matrix material
quality
pressed powder
total amount
solvent
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永井智雄
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Kao Corp
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Kao Corp
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/0216Solid or semisolid forms
    • A61K8/022Powders; Compacted Powders
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/25Silicon; Compounds thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/26Aluminium; Compounds thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34Alcohols
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34Alcohols
    • A61K8/345Alcohols containing more than one hydroxy group
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/37Esters of carboxylic acids
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/37Esters of carboxylic acids
    • A61K8/375Esters of carboxylic acids the alcohol moiety containing more than one hydroxy group
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/02Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
    • A61Q1/08Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments for cheeks, e.g. rouge
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/02Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
    • A61Q1/10Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments for eyes, e.g. eyeliner, mascara
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/12Face or body powders for grooming, adorning or absorbing
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/42Colour properties
    • A61K2800/43Pigments; Dyes
    • A61K2800/436Interference pigments, e.g. Iridescent, Pearlescent

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  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
  • Public Health (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • Birds (AREA)
  • Epidemiology (AREA)
  • Emergency Medicine (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Inorganic Chemistry (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)
  • Oil, Petroleum & Natural Gas (AREA)
  • Dermatology (AREA)

Abstract

The invention relates to a solid powder cosmetic obtained by forming a slurry by mixing a cosmetic substrate containing a powder and an oil with one or more mixing solvents selected from water and an aqueous solvent, packing the slurry into a container, and then removing the solvent therefrom, the solid powder cosmetic being one which contains the following components (A, B, C): (A) an oil having a hydroxyl group in the molecule and existing as a liquid or paste at 25 DEG C, and in an amount equivalent to 5-20 mass% of the total amount of the cosmetic substrate; (B) a luster pigment, the outermost surface layer of which is coated with one or more types selected from titanium oxide, iron oxide and silica, and in an amount equivalent to 30-70 mass% of the total amount of the cosmetic substrate; and (C) one or more types selected from glycol and an amphipathic ester, and in an amount equivalent to 0.1-10 mass% of the total amount of the cosmetic substrate.

Description

Cosmetic pressed powder
Technical field
The present invention relates to cosmetic pressed powder.
Background technology
In the manufacture method of cosmetic pressed powder, have: using powder body with as the dry process that is shaped of densification again after the oil preparation of adhesive mixes; Do form slurry with adding volatile solvent in the cosmetics matrix material formed by powder body and oil preparation, after being filled in container, dry removing volatile solvent and obtain the damp process of cosmetics.The cosmetic pressed powder obtained by damp process via slurry form, and promotes the dispersed of powder body and oil preparation, has fine and smooth opaque, use sense with moistening.In damp process, in order to this feature can be played to greatest extent, must make in the slurry to disperse equably as the powder body of matrix material and oil preparation.As the solvent of this matrix material dispersibility excellence, there will be a known volatile hydrocarbon or low-boiling point alcohol, reality is widely used (patent documentation 1,2) when utilizing damp process to obtain cosmetic pressed powder.
But, because volatile hydrocarbon or low-boiling point alcohol are dangers, thus when the manufacture for cosmetic pressed powder, need to notice in following handling safety, in environment corresponding aspects, that is, special custodial warehouse be arranged carry out managing to use, in the manufacture of reality, be set as the drying condition that can not exceed ignition point, and the volatile solvent of drying removing will recycling disposal once again.In addition, turpentole and the volatile hydrocarbon obtained cannot utilize when following oil exhaustion.
Based on such background, attempt using water as volatile solvent, but when using paste-making by using water material, oil preparation is difficult to dispersed, the oil preparation dispersity of the product obtained from surface to inside is uneven, according to make the position that applies some make up, have powder swabbing amount or extend different to the coating of skin, or the technical problem that deterioration of impact resistance etc. uses.
As the order of damp process utilizing water, first by utilizing the stirring mixers such as Heng Xieer blender (Henschel mixer) using the operation of carrying out being uniformly mixed as the powder body of cosmetics matrix material and oil preparation and utilizing hammer mill etc. to carry out the operation of grinding dispersion, and uniform adsorption oil preparation on powder surface is made.Next, add water thus to utilize muller to carry out slurried, but the caking that now oil preparation of uniform adsorption can condense or define larger cohesion on powder body can depart from from powder surface, and be separated in the water as dispersion solvent.Think by this mechanism, use sense described above and resistance to impact can be caused to worsen.
Particularly in the product containing a large amount of flitter, phenomenon described above is comparatively obvious, is difficult to guarantee resistance to impact, becomes water as the technical problem in the damp process of volatile solvent.
For solving this technical problem, there is the use level of attempting the oil preparation suppressing bad dispersibility, and utilize pressed powder oil (patent documentation 3) or attempt by improving resistance to impact (patent documentation 4) containing epithelium formative macromolecule.
[patent documentation 1] Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. Sho 64-9909 publication
[patent documentation 2] Japanese Patent Laid-fair 06-104612 publication
[patent documentation 3] Japanese Patent Laid-Open 2007-269696 publication
[patent documentation 4] Japan Patent No. 3455476 publication
Summary of the invention
The present invention relates to a kind of cosmetic pressed powder, by the cosmetics matrix material containing powder body and oil preparation and the single solvent be selected from water and aqueous solvent or mixed solvent of more than two kinds are carried out mixing and make pulp-like, after being filled in container, remove this solvent thus the cosmetic pressed powder obtained, containing following compositions (A), (B) and (C):
(A) in molecule, there is hydroxyl and oil preparation in aqueous or paste at 25 DEG C: 5 ~ 20 quality % accounting for cosmetics matrix material total amount;
(B) most top layer is by the one kind or two or more coated flitter be selected from titanium oxide, ferrum oxide and silicon dioxide: 30 ~ 70 quality % accounting for cosmetics matrix material total amount;
(C) what be selected from dihydroxylic alcohols and amphipathic (amphiphilic) ester is one kind or two or more: 0.1 ~ 10 quality % accounting for cosmetics matrix material total amount.
In addition, the present invention relates to the purposes of above-mentioned cosmetic pressed powder as eye shadow.
In addition, the present invention relates to a kind of manufacture method of cosmetic pressed powder, it is characterized in that cosmetics matrix material and solvent being carried out mixing and making pulp-like, after being filled in container, remove this solvent again, wherein, this cosmetics matrix material by containing following compositions (A) and (C) oil preparation, carry out mixing preparing with the powder body containing following compositions (B), this oil preparation is be selected from single solvent in water and aqueous solvent or mixed solvent of more than two kinds.
(A) in molecule, there is hydroxyl and oil preparation in aqueous or paste at 25 DEG C: 5 ~ 20 quality % accounting for cosmetics matrix material total amount;
(B) most top layer is by the one kind or two or more coated flitter be selected from titanium oxide, ferrum oxide and silicon dioxide: 30 ~ 70 quality % accounting for cosmetics matrix material total amount;
(C) what be selected from dihydroxylic alcohols and amphipathic ester is one kind or two or more: 0.1 ~ 10 quality % accounting for cosmetics matrix material total amount.
Detailed description of the invention
As patent documentation 3,4, under employ pressed powder oil or the high molecular situation of epithelium formative in matrix material, though resistance to impact is improved, the use sense of powder sense, coating difference can be caused because of these compositions.
Like this, fill in cosmetic pressed powder in the wet type employing water, particularly containing in the cosmetics of more flitter, expect to develop use sense excellence and the formula simultaneously with abundant resistance to impact.
Present inventor is in view of above-mentioned practical situation, through further investigation, found that one kind or two or more by what use specific oil preparation and flitter in specific proportions and be selected from dihydroxylic alcohols and amphipathic ester, even if then oil preparation still can be made evenly to be present in powder surface in the slurry prepared by use water, and oil preparation can not depart from from powder surface, thus can obtain use sense excellence, there is the cosmetic pressed powder of abundant resistance to impact.
Even if cosmetic pressed powder of the present invention is that matrix material ingredients still can disperse equably in the wet type using water as solvent is filled, even and if in a large number containing flitter, still can obtain excellent use sense, and there is sufficient resistance to impact.
The oil preparation of composition used herein (A) has the hydroxyl of more than 1 or 2 in the molecule, and in aqueous or paste at 25 DEG C.By using this oil preparation, excellent use sense and sufficient resistance to impact just can be obtained.
As the oil preparation of composition (A), be preferably the oil preparation that IOB value reaches more than 0.2, specifically can enumerate: the sub-oleyl ether (hydroxy alkyl (C16-18) hydroxy dimer dilinoleyl ether) of lactic acid octyldodecyl, malic acid two iso stearyl ester, hydroxy stearic acid 2-Octyl Nitrite, two isostearic acid two glyceride, three isostearic acid two glyceride, octyl dodecanol, trimerization carboxyl stearic acid dipentaerythritol ester (Dipentaerythrityl Tri-Polyhydroxystearate), C16-18 hydroxyalkyl hydroxyl dimerization etc.
Among these, from the view point of the slurry making viscosity reduction tool mobility time slurried, be preferably two isostearic acid two glyceride, three isostearic acid two glyceride, malic acid two iso stearyl ester and octyl dodecanol.
In addition, IOB value is the index of the physical property of prediction organic compound, as " FRAGRANCE JOURNAL ", vol.50, illustrated by pp.79-82 (1981) etc., add up to again after each for the structure of compound position being given the mark of " organic value (OV) ", " inorganic value (IV) ", then the numerical value that total IV mark is obtained divided by total OV mark and trying to achieve.The degree of the physical property can thought by the impact of Van der Waals (Van Der Waals) power is " Organic ", the degree of the physical property affected by electro-affinity is " inorganic nature ", the compound that IOB value is higher, more becomes the compound that the polarity of easily generation electric interactions is high.
The oil preparation of composition (A) to use a kind or combinationally use two or more, from the view point of use sense and resistance to impact, its content accounts for more than 5 quality % in cosmetics matrix material total amount, is preferably more than 6 quality %, is more preferably more than 7 quality %.Further, from the view point of the powder swabbing amount of cosmetics, with moistening smear sense of touch, be below 20 quality % in cosmetics matrix material total amount, be preferably below 18 quality %, be more preferably below 15 quality %.In addition, the oil content of composition (A) is 5 ~ 20 quality % in cosmetics matrix material total amount, is preferably 6 ~ 18 quality %, is more preferably 7 ~ 15 quality %.
The flitter of composition used herein (B), it is one kind or two or more coated to be that most top layer is selected from titanium oxide, ferrum oxide and silicon dioxide.
Such as can enumerate as flitter: the titanium oxide coated mica being coated with titanium oxide on mica surface, mica surface is coated with the iron oxide encapsulated mica of ferrum oxide, the ferrum oxide titanium oxide coated mica of further coated titanium oxide after mica surface is coated with ferrum oxide, the titanium-oxide-coated synthetic mica of titanium oxide is coated with on the surface at synthetic mica, the coated synthetic mica of ferrum oxide of ferrum oxide is coated with on the surface at synthetic mica, the ferrum oxide titanium-oxide-coated synthetic mica of titanium oxide is coated with further after synthetic mica is coated with ferrum oxide on the surface, the titanium-oxide-coated glass flake of titanium oxide is coated with on the surface at glass flake, the coated glass flake of ferrum oxide of ferrum oxide is coated with on the surface at glass flake, the ferrum oxide titanium-oxide-coated glass flake of titanium oxide is coated with further after glass flake is coated with ferrum oxide on the surface, the titanium oxide coated with silica glass flake etc. of silicon dioxide is coated with further after glass flake is coated with titanium oxide on the surface.
These most top layers are selected from the one kind or two or more coated flitter in titanium oxide, ferrum oxide and silicon dioxide, and because most top layer has hydroxyl, the affinity therefore and between the oil preparation of composition (A) is high.So, when by carry out being uniformly mixed containing the cosmetics matrix material of these pigment and water prepare slurry time, the disengaging of oil preparation from powder surface can not being there is, when finally becoming cosmetic pressed powder, also can have the use sense of the moistening produced by oil preparation and sufficient resistance to impact.
The flitter of composition (B) can use a kind or combinationally use two or more, from the view point of obtaining radiance sense fully, its content accounts for more than 30 quality % in cosmetics matrix material total amount, is preferably more than 35 quality %, is more preferably more than 40 quality %.Further, from the view point of obtaining abundant resistance to impact, in cosmetics matrix material total amount, accounting for below 70 quality %, being preferably below 65 quality %, being more preferably below 60 quality %.Further, the content of composition (B) accounts for 30 ~ 70 quality %, is preferably 35 ~ 65 quality %, is more preferably 40 ~ 60 quality % in cosmetics matrix material total amount.
In composition used in the present invention (C), can enumerate as dihydroxylic alcohols: dipropylene glycol, 1,3 butylene glycol, propylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, ethylene glycol, Polyethylene Glycol etc.
As dihydroxylic alcohols, particularly from the view point of radiance sense and use sense excellence, being preferably molecular weight is less than 400, is more preferably less than 200.
In addition, amphipathic ester utilizes the method specified in Pharmacopeia of Japan ordinary test method to measure, in the ion exchange water through being adjusted to conductivity 70 ~ 110 μ s/m, dissolve more than 10 quality % at normal temperatures, and at the different n-nonanoic acid isotridecyl ester as oil preparation, (day clear Oillio Group company manufactures, SALACOS 913) in, dissolve the amphipathic ester of more than 10 quality % under room temperature (25 DEG C).
It is the ester can enumerating dicarboxylic acids and ethoxy ethanol or ethoxydiglycol (ethoxydiglycol) as so amphipathic ester.
Specifically can enumerate: represented by the succinic acid diethoxy ethyl ester represented by following formula (1), the diethoxy DEGS represented by following formula (2), following formula (3) two-diethoxy diethylene glycol cyclohexane extraction 1,4-dicarboxylic ester (bis-ethoxydiglycol cyclohexane Isosorbide-5-Nitrae-dicarboxylate).
As the oil preparation in cosmetics matrix material, by using these compositions together with composition (A), thus increase water to the affinity of oil preparation entirety, and then the oil preparation not easily causing powder surface condenses and oil preparation departs from from powder surface.Its result, can obtain the cosmetic pressed powder of the moistening use sense excellence produced by oil preparation.
Composition (C) can use a kind or combinationally use two or more, also can combinationally use dihydroxylic alcohols and amphipathic ester.
From the view point of use sense, the content of composition (C) accounts for more than 0.1 quality % in cosmetics matrix material total amount, is preferably more than 0.2 quality %, is more preferably more than 0.5 quality %.Further, from the view point of resistance to water, in cosmetics matrix material total amount, account for below 10 quality %, be preferably below 7 quality %, be more preferably below 5 quality %.In addition, the content of composition (C) accounts for 0.1 ~ 10 quality % in cosmetics matrix material total amount, is preferably 0.2 ~ 7 quality %, is more preferably 0.5 ~ 5 quality %.
In cosmetic pressed powder of the present invention, the cosmetics matrix material except mentioned component, as long as all can using arbitrarily of using in common cosmetics, can use powder body other than the above, oil preparation, additive etc.
As powder body, such as can enumerate: the coated mica titanium of ferric ferrocyanide, the coated mica titanium of carmine, titanium oxide/silicon dioxide multilayer coating structure mica titanium, the coated glass flake of silver, the coated glass flake of gold, aluminium powder, polyethylene terephthalate epoxy aluminum lamination powder, polyethylene terephthalate aluminum lamination powder, polyethylene terephthalate polyurethane-11 aluminum lamination powder, polyethylene terephthalate polymethyl methacrylate lamination powder, flitter beyond the compositions (B) such as polyethylene terephthalate polyolefin lamination powder, the organic pigment pigment such as No. 104, redness, No. 202, redness, No. 226, redness, No. 4, yellow, Sunset Yellow FCF, No. 1, blueness, No. 401, black, the color lake organic pigment pigment such as yellow No. 4 Al color lakes, blue No. 1 Al color lake, the inorganic colored pigments such as yellow ferric oxide, red iron oxide, Black Rouge, chromium oxide, chromic oxide gel, carbon black, ultramarine, ferric ferrocyanide, manganese violet, the Chinese white such as zinc oxide, titanium oxide, the extender pigments such as Talcum, sericite, boron nitride, the slaine pigment such as barium sulfate, calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, aluminium silicate, magnesium silicate, the inorganic pigment such as silicon dioxide, aluminium oxide, the resin powder body such as polyethylene powders, polypropylene powder, polymethylmethacrylate powder, nylon powder, polytetrafluorethylepowder powder, silicone powder, silicone rubber powder, silk powder (silk powder), amido formate powder, cellulose powder, poly-ethylene fluoride, the acylated lysine powder body such as lauroyl lysine, as the metallic soap powder body etc. of higher fatty acid metal salt.
The size, shape etc. of these powder body indefinite, can use a kind or combinationally use two or more.In addition, these powder body also suitably can carry out surface treatment.
In order to give full play to the dressing effect giving color or gloss, powder content is, preferably accounts for more than 70 quality %, is more preferably more than 75 quality %, be particularly preferably more than 80 quality % as powder body total amount in cosmetics matrix material total amount.Further, from the view point of conformality, be preferably below 94 quality %, be more preferably below 93 quality %, be particularly preferably below 92 quality %.In addition, the content of powder body is, is preferably 70 ~ 94 quality %, is more preferably 75 ~ 93 quality %, is particularly preferably 80 ~ 92 quality % as powder body total amount in cosmetics matrix material total amount.
In addition; as the oil preparation beyond the composition used in cosmetics matrix material (A) and (C); as long as use in usual cosmetics; such as, the fluorine class oil preparationes etc. such as hydrocarbon ils, higher fatty acids, higher alcohol, various ester oil, silicone oil, perfluoroalkyl ethers can be enumerated.
By coordinating such oil preparation, the wetness sensation of final products or the attachment to skin just can be promoted, so preferably.
These oil preparationes can use a kind or combinationally use two or more, for can give full play to conformality, final products wetness sensation or to effects such as the attachments of skin, its content is, account in cosmetics matrix material total amount as oil preparation total amount and be preferably more than 5 quality %, be more preferably more than 6 quality %, be more preferably more than 7 quality %.In addition, for avoiding the solidification of cosmetics surface, use sense deterioration, as oil preparation total amount, in cosmetics matrix material total amount, preferably accounting for below 30 quality %, be more preferably below 25 quality %, being particularly preferably below 20 quality %.In addition, oil content is, preferably accounts for 5 ~ 30 quality %, more preferably 6 ~ 25 quality %, be more preferably 7 ~ 20 quality % as oil preparation total amount in cosmetics matrix material total amount.
In the case, when preparing slurry adding water in cosmetics matrix material, never cause oil preparation cohesion to each other, and cosmetics soft surface, the viewpoint of powder swabbing and use sense excellence is set out, composition (A) is preferably containing more than 50 quality % in oil preparation total amount, is more preferably 75 ~ 100 quality %.
In addition, in cosmetics matrix material, under the homodisperse object of auxiliary element, can matching surface activating agent.
As surfactant, as long as can using of using in common cosmetics, can enumerate: non-ionic surface active agent, anion surfactant, cationic surfactant, amphoteric surfactant etc.Such as can enumerate: fatty acid glyceride and aklylene glycol addition product, polyglyceryl fatty acid ester and aklylene glycol addition product thereof, sorbitan carboxylic esters and aklylene glycol addition product, polyoxyethylene hydrogenated Oleum Ricini, the alkyl co-modified organopolysiloxane of polyoxyalkylenes, polyethers upgrading organopolysiloxane, lecithin etc.
As surfactant, be preferably non-ionic surface active agent.
In addition, in cosmetics matrix material, for performance and the quality of energy improving product, also suitably can to fit in the scope not undermining effect of the present invention in common cosmetics use composition, such as: the various additive such as wetting agent, pH adjusting agent, antioxidant, fungi-proofing antifungus agent, UV absorbent, spice, Cosmetic Ingredient.
Mentioned component uses the device of the common cosmetics that make powder to carry out being uniformly mixed preparing by cosmetics matrix material.
More specifically, cosmetics matrix material is first mixed by the oil preparation containing composition (A) and (C), carries out heating for dissolving as required; On the other hand, Homogeneous phase mixing contains the powder body of composition (B); In this powder body, add oil preparation and make it dispersed, then preparing by pulverizing.
By by the cosmetics obtained like this matrix material, carry out mixing with the single solvent be selected from water and aqueous solvent or mixed solvent of more than two kinds and make pulp-like, after being filled in container, removing this solvent and just can obtain cosmetic pressed powder.
In the solvent used when mixing with cosmetics matrix material, be preferably the low-boiling point alcohols such as ethanol, propanol, isopropyl alcohol, butanols as aqueous solvent.
As solvent, being preferably separately is water, or the alcohol-water solution obtained that is dissolved in the water by low-boiling point alcohol.Low-boiling point alcohol concentration in alcohol-water solution is preferably below 50 quality %.Determining alcohol in alcohol-water solution is higher, and the dispersion of the cosmetics matrix material when prepared by slurry is better, more can obtain use sense excellence and have the cosmetic pressed powder of abundant resistance to impact.But, in cosmetic pressed powder of the present invention, even if do not use low-boiling point alcohol completely, still can obtain the cosmetic pressed powder with very good use sense and sufficient resistance to impact, thus the low-boiling point alcohol concentration in alcohol-water solution is more preferably set to below 25 quality %, be more preferably below 10 quality %, be particularly preferably below 5 quality %.
In the present invention, when make to apply some make up matrix material and the single solvent be selected from water and aqueous solvent or mixed solvent of more than two kinds are to prepare slurry, from the view point of having the mobility being suitable for filled therewith, relative to cosmetics matrix material 100 mass parts, preferred use is selected from single solvent in water and aqueous solvent or mixed solvent of more than two kinds 50 ~ 120 mass parts, is more preferably use 70 ~ 100 mass parts.
By cosmetics matrix material, mix with the single solvent be selected from water and aqueous solvent or mixed solvent of more than two kinds after, be filled in container, recycling heat drying and except desolventizing.Heating-up temperature, device indefinite, remove for equal for all solvents drying being heated up in a steamer, and is preferably more than 30 DEG C, is more preferably more than 50 DEG C.Drying device uses hot air circulating dryer, and it is thus preferred under cosmetics local can not be made to be exposed to high temperature.
In the present invention, amphipathic ester is made to be contained in wet type filling slurry in cosmetics matrix material, can promote powder body moistening, and slurry is rich in mobility, is thus preferably used in a kind of wet type back side filling method as damp process from the hole filling paste being arranged on cosmetics containers bottom surface.
In addition, slurry used herein because mobility is high, slurry energy uniform filling to each corner of cosmetics containers, be thus also applicable to the stereo shaping utilizing back side filling to carry out.So-called " stereo shaping carried out with back side filling " is surface spatially formula molding, overleaf during filling after opening of container crimps and is carved to the component of reversion shape of cosmetics surface detail or three-dimensional shape, clamp-on slurry by the filler opening being arranged on container bottom, utilize peristome top to crimp component simultaneously and absorb the volatile solvent in slurry thus the forming method solidified.Be not limited in cosmetic pressed powder entirety in this what is called " solid " and be shaped to dome-shaped or pyramid shape, also comprise cosmetic pressed powder surface in differing heights, and have a mind to be arranged to the design of tool difference of height part.
Cosmetic pressed powder of the present invention is applicable as foundation cream, eye shadow, rouge etc.Be particularly suitable as eye shadow to use.
About above-mentioned embodiment, the present invention discloses following constituent further.
<1> cosmetic pressed powder, be by the cosmetics matrix material containing powder body and oil preparation, carry out mixing with the single solvent be selected from water and aqueous solvent or mixed solvent of more than two kinds and make pulp-like, after being filled in container, the cosmetic pressed powder obtained by removing this solvent, it contains following compositions (A), (B) and (C):
(A) in molecule, there is hydroxyl and oil preparation in aqueous or paste at 25 DEG C: 5 ~ 20 quality % accounting for cosmetics matrix material total amount;
(B) most top layer is by the one kind or two or more coated flitter be selected from titanium oxide, ferrum oxide and silicon dioxide: 30 ~ 70 quality % accounting for cosmetics matrix material total amount;
(C) what be selected from dihydroxylic alcohols and amphipathic ester is one kind or two or more: 0.1 ~ 10 quality % accounting for cosmetics matrix material total amount.
The cosmetic pressed powder of <2> described in above-mentioned <1>, wherein, the oil preparation of composition (A) is preferably IOB value and reaches more than 0.2, and what be selected from the sub-oleyl ether of lactic acid octyldodecyl, malic acid two iso stearyl ester, hydroxy stearic acid 2-Octyl Nitrite, two isostearic acid two glyceride, three isostearic acid two glyceride, octyl dodecanol, trimerization carboxyl stearic acid dipentaerythritol ester and C16-18 hydroxyalkyl hydroxyl dimerization is one kind or two or more.
The cosmetic pressed powder of <3> described in above-mentioned <1> or <2>, wherein, the amphipathic ester of composition (C) is preferably dicarboxylic acids, ester with ethoxy ethanol or ethoxydiglycol.
The cosmetic pressed powder that <4> is described any one of above-mentioned <1> ~ <3>, wherein, it is one kind or two or more that the amphipathic ester of composition (C) is preferably selected from two-diethoxy diethylene glycol cyclohexane extraction Isosorbide-5-Nitrae-dicarboxylic ester, diethoxy DEGS and succinic acid diethoxy ethyl ester.
The cosmetic pressed powder of <5> described in above-mentioned <1> or <2>, wherein, the dihydroxylic alcohols of composition (C) is preferably molecular weight less than 400, is more preferably the dihydroxylic alcohols of molecular weight less than 200.
The cosmetic pressed powder that <6> is described any one of <1> ~ <5>, wherein, by slurry being carried out back side filling and molding from the hole being arranged on container bottoms.
The cosmetic pressed powder that <7> is described any one of above-mentioned <1> ~ <6>, wherein, surface is three-dimensional molding.
The cosmetic pressed powder that <8> is described any one of above-mentioned <1> ~ <7>, wherein, the content of composition (A) preferably accounts for 6 ~ 18 quality % in cosmetics matrix material total amount, is more preferably 7 ~ 15 quality %.
The cosmetic pressed powder that <9> is described any one of above-mentioned <1> ~ <8>, wherein, the content of composition (B) preferably accounts for 35 ~ 65 quality % in cosmetics matrix material total amount, is more preferably 40 ~ 60 quality %.
The cosmetic pressed powder that <10> is described any one of above-mentioned <1> ~ <9>, wherein, the content of composition (C) preferably accounts for 0.2 ~ 7 quality % in cosmetics matrix material total amount, is more preferably 0.5 ~ 5 quality %.
The cosmetic pressed powder that <11> is described any one of above-mentioned <1> ~ <10>, wherein, the content of powder body is, preferably in cosmetics matrix material total amount, 70 ~ 94 quality % are accounted for as powder body total amount, more preferably 75 ~ 93 quality %, are more preferably 80 ~ 92 quality %.
The cosmetic pressed powder that <12> is described any one of above-mentioned <1> ~ <11>, wherein, the content of oil preparation is, preferably in cosmetics matrix material total amount, 5 ~ 30 quality % are accounted for as oil preparation total amount, more preferably 6 ~ 25 quality %, are more preferably 7 ~ 20 quality %.
The cosmetic pressed powder that <13> is described any one of above-mentioned <1> ~ <12>, wherein, the content of composition (A) preferably accounts for more than 50 quality % in oil preparation total amount, is more preferably 75 ~ 100 quality %.
Cosmetic pressed powder described any one of the above-mentioned <1> ~ <13> of <14> is as the purposes of eye shadow.
The manufacture method of a <15> cosmetic pressed powder, it is characterized in that, cosmetics matrix material and solvent are carried out mixing and makes pulp-like, after being filled in container, remove this solvent again, wherein, above-mentioned cosmetics matrix material is by containing the oil preparation of following compositions (A) with (C), carrying out mixing and prepare with the powder body containing following compositions (B), above-mentioned solvent is be selected from single solvent in water and aqueous solvent or mixed solvent of more than two kinds
(A) in molecule, there is hydroxyl and oil preparation in aqueous or paste at 25 DEG C: 5 ~ 20 quality % accounting for cosmetics matrix material total amount;
(B) most top layer is by the one kind or two or more coated flitter be selected from titanium oxide, ferrum oxide and silicon dioxide: 30 ~ 70 quality % accounting for cosmetics matrix material total amount;
(C) what be selected from dihydroxylic alcohols and amphipathic ester is one kind or two or more: 0.1 ~ 10 quality % accounting for cosmetics matrix material total amount.
Embodiment
Below, by embodiment, the present invention will be described in more detail, and the technology of the present invention scope does not limit by these embodiments.In addition, the numeric representation content (quality %) in table.Before embodiment, first the evaluation methodology that each embodiment adopts is described.
(1) radiance sense and use sense:
Evaluate group member for the radiance sense when each cosmetic pressed powder of dermal application, use sense (quality of powder swabbing amount, coating expansion) by 20 women, carry out sensory evaluation.Result represents by following benchmark.
(metewand)
◎: answering good number is more than 17 people.
Zero: answering good number is 12 ~ 16 people.
△: answering good number is 8 ~ 11 people.
×: answering good number is below 7 people.
(2) resistance to impact:
Each cosmetic pressed powder is built in cosmetic container, repeats to drop in the plywood of thickness 15mm from height 50cm with horizontal direction, evaluate until there is the number of times of the abnormal phenomenas such as defect, cracked, be full of cracks.Metewand is as follows.
(metewand)
More than ◎: 11 times.
Zero: 7 ~ 10 times.
△: 5 ~ 6 times.
×: less than 4 times.
(4) cosmetic persistency:
Evaluating specially group members from smearing each cosmetic pressed powder after 5 hours by 25, carrying out sense evaluation for cosmetic persistency.Result represents by following benchmark.
More than ◎: 20 to be evaluated as cosmetic persistency good.
More than zero: 15 and be less than 20 to be evaluated as cosmetic persistency good.
More than △: 11 and be less than 15 to be evaluated as cosmetic persistency good.
×: being less than 11, to be evaluated as cosmetic persistency good.
[embodiment 1 ~ 8, comparative example 1 ~ 5]
Manufacture cosmetic pressed powder by composition following table 1 Suo Shi, and carry out above-mentioned test.The results are recorded in table 1.
(manufacture method of cosmetic pressed powder)
A: composition 1 ~ 14 is mixed, and is heated to 70 DEG C of dissolvings.
B: by composition 15 ~ 27 Homogeneous phase mixing.
C: add A and make it dispersed in B, obtains cosmetics matrix material after crushed.
D: 100 mass parts C are mixed with 100 mass parts solvents and prepares slurry.
For embodiment 8,80 mass parts water are mixed with 20 mass parts ethanol used afterwards in advance.
E: offer in the aluminum metal dish (2.7cm × 2.7cm square, thickness 4mm) in diameter 1mm hole in bottom surface, utilize back side filling to carry out filling molding in D slurry.
F: products formed carries out drying in 7 hours in 50 DEG C of drying machines.
Learnt by the result of table 1, in embodiment 1 ~ embodiment 8, radiance sense, use sense, resistance to impact and cosmetic persistency are all in good.
In following one-tenth is grouped into, manufactures cosmetic pressed powder and carried out above-mentioned evaluation test, the sense of result radiance, use sense, resistance to impact and cosmetic persistency are all good.
Embodiment 9 (dome-shaped pressed powder rouge)
* 18:PDM-40L (TOPY industrial group system)
* 19: plastic powders D-400 (Toshiki Pigment Inc.)
* 20:FLAMENCO SUPER PEARL (BASF AG's system)
(manufacture method)
A: composition 1 ~ 4 is mixed, and is heated to 70 DEG C of dissolvings.
B: by composition 5 ~ 16 Homogeneous phase mixing.
C: add A and make it dispersed in B, obtains cosmetics matrix material after crushed.
D: 100 mass parts C are carried out mixing with 100 mass parts water and prepares slurry.
E: offer in bottom surface in the aluminum metal dish in diameter 1mm hole, utilize back side filling to carry out filling molding in the slurry of D.
Now, dome-shaped by what the peristome top of aluminum metal dish crimping component was set as reversing, just obtained dome-shaped pressed powder rouge.
F: products formed carries out drying in 7 hours in 50 DEG C of drying machines.
Embodiment 10 (pyramid shape pressed powder eye shadow)
* 21: silicone SH556 FLUID (TorayDow Corning Inc.)
* 22:SHP-5 (Shui Dao alloyed iron Inc.)
* 23:SUNLOVELY C (AGC Si-Tech Inc.)
* 24:METASHINE MT1080KRS1 (NHTechno Inc.)
* 25:PROMINENCE SF (Japanese Guang Yan industrial group system)
* 26:Timiron Splendid Gold (Merck Inc.)
* 27:METASHINE MC5150PSS1 (NHTechno Inc.)
(manufacture method)
A: composition 1 ~ 6 is mixed, and be heated to 70 DEG C and dissolve.
B: by composition 7 ~ 19 Homogeneous phase mixing.
C: add A and make it dispersed in B, obtains cosmetics matrix material after crushed.
D: 100 mass parts C are carried out mixing with 120 mass parts water and has prepared slurry.
E: offer in the resin disk in diameter 1mm hole in bottom surface, utilizes back side filling to carry out filling molding in the slurry of D.
Now, by the pyramid shape being set as reversing by the peristome top of resin disk crimping component, pyramid shape pressed powder eye shadow has just been obtained.
F: products formed carries out drying in 7 hours in 50 DEG C of drying machines.
Embodiment 11 (marking has the pressed powder foundation cream of brand mark chapter)
* 28:SP-500 (Toray Inc.)
* 29:TIMIRON SUPER GOLD (Merck Inc.)
* 30:TREFIL E-506 (TorayDow Corning Inc.)
(manufacture method)
A: composition 1 ~ 4 is mixed, and be heated to 70 DEG C and dissolve.
B: by composition 5 ~ 18 Homogeneous phase mixing.
C: add A and make it dispersed in B, obtains cosmetics matrix material after crushed.
D: 100 mass parts C are carried out mixing with 120 mass parts water and has prepared slurry.
E: offer in the resin disk in diameter 1mm hole in bottom surface, utilizes back side filling to carry out filling molding in D slurry.
Now, by arranging the brand mark chapter engraving of reversion on the peristome top of resin disk crimping component, just obtained marking has the pressed powder foundation cream of brand mark chapter.
F: products formed implements drying in 7 hours in 50 DEG C of drying machines.
[embodiment 12 ~ 16, comparative example 6]
Make the cosmetic pressed powder formed shown in table 2 in the same manner as embodiment 1 ~ 8, and radiance sense, use sense, resistance to impact and cosmetic persistency are evaluated.The results are recorded in table 2.

Claims (9)

1. a cosmetic pressed powder, wherein,
Described cosmetic pressed powder be by by the cosmetics matrix material containing powder body and oil preparation, carry out mixing with the single solvent be selected from water and aqueous solvent or mixed solvent of more than two kinds and make pulp-like, after being filled in container, remove this solvent and the cosmetic pressed powder obtained, it contains following compositions (A), (B) and (C):
(A) in molecule, there is hydroxyl and oil preparation in aqueous or paste at 25 DEG C: 5 ~ 20 quality % accounting for cosmetics matrix material total amount;
(B) most top layer is by the one kind or two or more coated flitter be selected from titanium oxide, ferrum oxide and silicon dioxide: 30 ~ 70 quality % accounting for cosmetics matrix material total amount;
(C) what be selected from dihydroxylic alcohols and amphipathic ester is one kind or two or more: 0.1 ~ 10 quality % accounting for cosmetics matrix material total amount.
2. cosmetic pressed powder as claimed in claim 1, wherein,
The oil preparation of composition (A) is that it is one kind or two or more to be selected from the sub-oleyl ether of lactic acid octyldodecyl, malic acid two iso stearyl ester, hydroxy stearic acid 2-Octyl Nitrite, two isostearic acid two glyceride, three isostearic acid two glyceride, octyl dodecanol, trimerization carboxyl stearic acid dipentaerythritol ester and C16-18 hydroxyalkyl hydroxyl dimerization.
3. cosmetic pressed powder as claimed in claim 1 or 2, wherein,
The amphipathic ester of composition (C) is by dicarboxylic acids, the ester that formed with ethoxy ethanol or ethoxydiglycol.
4. the cosmetic pressed powder according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein,
The amphipathic ester of composition (C) is that it is one kind or two or more to be selected from two-diethoxy diethylene glycol cyclohexane extraction Isosorbide-5-Nitrae-dicarboxylic ester, diethoxy DEGS and succinic acid diethoxy ethyl ester.
5. cosmetic pressed powder as claimed in claim 1 or 2, wherein,
The dihydroxylic alcohols molecular weight of composition (C) is less than 400.
6. the cosmetic pressed powder according to any one of Claims 1 to 5, wherein,
By slurry being carried out back side filling and molding from the hole being arranged on container bottoms.
7. the cosmetic pressed powder according to any one of claim 1 ~ 6, wherein,
Surface is three-dimensional molding.
8. the cosmetic pressed powder according to any one of claim 1 ~ 7 is as the purposes of eye shadow.
9. a manufacture method for cosmetic pressed powder, is characterized in that,
Cosmetics matrix material and solvent carried out mixing and make pulp-like, after being filled in container, then removing this solvent,
Wherein, described cosmetics matrix material by containing following compositions (A) and (C) oil preparation, carry out mixing with the powder body containing following compositions (B) and prepare;
Described solvent is be selected from single solvent in water and aqueous solvent or mixed solvent of more than two kinds;
(A) in molecule, there is hydroxyl and oil preparation in aqueous or paste at 25 DEG C: 5 ~ 20 quality % accounting for cosmetics matrix material total amount;
(B) most top layer is by the one kind or two or more coated flitter be selected from titanium oxide, ferrum oxide and silicon dioxide: 30 ~ 70 quality % accounting for cosmetics matrix material total amount;
(C) what be selected from dihydroxylic alcohols and amphipathic ester is one kind or two or more: 0.1 ~ 10 quality % accounting for cosmetics matrix material total amount.
CN201380068645.2A 2012-12-28 2013-12-27 Solid powder cosmetic Pending CN104902868A (en)

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