CN104095331A - Method for tailoring fitted blouse body prototype - Google Patents
Method for tailoring fitted blouse body prototype Download PDFInfo
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- CN104095331A CN104095331A CN201410283862.XA CN201410283862A CN104095331A CN 104095331 A CN104095331 A CN 104095331A CN 201410283862 A CN201410283862 A CN 201410283862A CN 104095331 A CN104095331 A CN 104095331A
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- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 title claims abstract description 31
- 238000005259 measurement Methods 0.000 claims description 115
- 238000005520 cutting process Methods 0.000 claims description 41
- 239000004744 fabric Substances 0.000 claims description 10
- 238000013459 approach Methods 0.000 claims description 8
- 230000009467 reduction Effects 0.000 claims description 4
- 210000000038 chest Anatomy 0.000 abstract description 101
- 210000000481 breast Anatomy 0.000 abstract description 8
- 238000009958 sewing Methods 0.000 abstract 1
- 210000001364 upper extremity Anatomy 0.000 description 3
- 210000002659 acromion Anatomy 0.000 description 2
- 241001495489 Theligonum Species 0.000 description 1
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Abstract
The invention provides a method for tailoring a fitted blouse body prototype. The method comprises the following steps of 1, determining the tailoring of a back part foundation line and front part foundation line of the blouse body prototype according to the measured waistline, chest circumference, shoulder breadth, arm root circumference and neck circumference; 2, determining an armhole tailoring line of the blouse body prototype; 3, determining a breast dart, wherein the breast dart width is equal to the difference value by subtracting the distance value between the rear underarm dart lower point and the rear lower flat line from the distance value between the front underarm dart lower point and the front lower flat line; 4, tailoring according to the determined structure lines to obtain the blouse body prototype. The relation between the armhole and the breast dart width, the blouse length, the breast dart width and a human body is founded, the breast dart tailoring method is determined by tailoring the armhole around the arm root and adopting the side sewing length, so the fitted blouse body tailoring technology is more simple and clear and better accords with an actual human body form and the tailored blouse is more fitted.
Description
Technical field
The present invention relates to tailoring technical field, refer to particularly a kind of fit class crock clothing body prototype cutting method.
Background technology
Upper garment prototype refers to the basic crop frame before various style change application in plane cutting.Concrete clothes can be done according to prototype basis the adjustment of the factors such as clothing form, fabric, local custom.Upper garment prototype comprises clothing body and two essential parts of sleeve, and the cutting of upper clothes body prototype generally comprises neckline, chest measurement, armhole and four parts of province's seam.At present, fit class crock clothing body prototype cutting needs multiple measurements and draws link, respectively: clothing length, chest measurement, armhole are dark, across back, chest breadth, neck is loose, neck is dark, neckline camber line, dropped shoulder, armhole curve, dart, measurement and drafting link, relate to data volume many, operate comparatively loaded down with trivial details.The cutting of existing crock clothing body prototype armhole generally adopts the bust size of measurement to calculate that armhole is dark and armhole is loose, and sleeve adopts the mountain cutting of tucking inside the sleeve of the clothing body armhole arc length degree of measurement.But the method sport technique segment is many, to measure and gather on cutting figure as its armhole length needs cutting figure to draw rear passing through, its lacks armhole scale Design etc., is unfavorable for the more suitable armhole length of crop configuration and reverse cutting sleeve.Before the present invention, the chest of fit class crock clothing body prototype is economized and is loosely normally calculated based on chest measurement, and chest is economized wide=chest measurement/4-2.5cm, chest measurement greatly chest economize just widely.But in practice, human body chest measurement is identical but different with form because of individual udder size, can cause the chest of clothing body to economize and also answer appropriate change, the human body of for example identical chest measurement, some waistlines are compared with little and breast is larger, and what have is but waistline compared with large and breast is less.Therefore, existing fit class crock clothing body prototype cutting method shortage chest is economized contacting of loose and armhole and human body itself, determines that the wide meeting of chest province causes the not fit problem of clothing body according to existing according to chest measurement.
Summary of the invention
Object of the present invention will provide a kind of fit class crock clothing body prototype cutting method exactly, reduces tailoring link, set up armhole and chest economize wide, clothing long with chest province loose and with the contacting of organization of human body itself, the clothes of institute's cutting are more fit.
For achieving the above object, the crock clothing body prototype cutting method that the present invention is designed, comprises the following steps successively:
The first, determine the rear panel ground line of crock clothing body prototype and the cutting of anter ground line according to waist joint length, chest measurement, shoulder breadth, arm rhizosphere and the neck circumference measured, wherein,
Described rear panel ground line comprises: rear upper horizontal line, rear lower horizontal line, CB, the large line of rear chest measurement, rear neck nest line, back porch line, rear shoulder breadth line and back porch end points; Described anter ground line comprises: front upper horizontal line, front lower horizontal line, front center line, the large line of front chest measurement, front neck nest line, crop line, front shoulder breadth line and crop end points;
The second, determine crock clothing body prototype armhole cutting wires, its method is:
1) do point under hind flank: later point of shoulder point is for drawing camber line in the center of circle, arc radius be before and after the ﹢ of (arm rhizosphere ﹢ armhole loose measure)/2 armhole arc length poor/2 ﹣ back armhole arc strings are poor, the large line intersection point of drawn camber line and rear chest measurement is point under hind flank, wherein, armhole loose measure is 1.5～2.5cm, front and back armhole arc length is poor is 1cm, and back armhole arc string is poor is 1.32～1.55cm;
2) do back armhole string: under back porch end points and hind flank, between point, do straight line and obtain back armhole string;
3) do back armhole arc: draw fixed length curve to point under hind flank with smoother lines from back porch end points and obtain back armhole arc, back armhole arc and back porch line intersection approach right angle, the length of back armhole arc be before and after the ﹢ of (arm rhizosphere+armhole loose measure)/2 armhole arc length poor/2;
4) do point under fore flank: former point of shoulder point is for drawing camber line in the center of circle, arc radius be before and after (arm rhizosphere+armhole loose measure)/2-armhole arc length poor/2-before armhole arc string poor, the intersection point of drawn camber line and the large line of front chest measurement is point under fore flank, wherein, front armhole arc string is poor is 3.92～4.15cm;
5) do front armhole string: armhole string before doing straight line and obtain between point under crop end points and fore flank;
6) do front armhole arc: obtain front armhole arc from crop end points to the smoother stick figure fixed length curve of point under fore flank, front armhole arc and crop line intersection approach right angle, the length of front armhole arc be before and after the ﹣ of (arm rhizosphere+armhole loose measure)/2 armhole arc length poor/2;
Three, determine chest province, under described fore flank, putting and deducting point to the difference of rear lower horizontal line distance value under hind flank to front lower horizontal line distance value is that chest province is wide;
Four, carry out cutting according to determined structure line and can obtain designed fit class crock clothing body prototype.
Preferably, the determining step of described rear panel ground line is:
1) on cloth, determine rear SNP SIDE NECK POINT, SNP SIDE NECK POINT does straight line as rear upper horizontal line later;
2) below rear upper horizontal line, do parallel lines and obtain after lower horizontal line, the vertical range between rear lower horizontal line and rear upper horizontal line is that measured low back joint is grown;
3) along rear upper horizontal line, after doing for the wide place of rear neck with rear SNP SIDE NECK POINT distance, the vertical line of upper horizontal line is obtaining CB, rear neck is wide=((neck circumference+neck circumference loose measure)/3.29+2.1cm)/2, wherein neck circumference loose measure is 1.0～2.0cm;
4) the large line of chest measurement after the parallel lines that do CB with respect to the opposite side of CB at rear SNP SIDE NECK POINT obtain, vertical range=half chest measurement/2+ chest measurement loose measure-front and back chest measurement of the large line of rear chest measurement and CB is poor/and 2, wherein, chest measurement loose measure is 0.4～0.7cm, and front and back chest measurement is poor is 0.3～0.8cm;
5) vertical line that does rear upper horizontal line from rear SNP SIDE NECK POINT obtains the wide line of rear neck;
6) obtain rear neck dark line along lower horizontal line direction distance after the wide alignment of rear neck for the rear neck parallel lines that rear upper horizontal line is done at value place deeply from rear SNP SIDE NECK POINT, wherein, the dark value of rear neck is 1.8～2.2cm;
7) after, the dark line of neck and CB intersection point are collare central point;
8) between collare central point and rear SNP SIDE NECK POINT, doing after smooth curve obtains and leading nest line;
9) from rear SNP SIDE NECK POINT backward the large line direction of chest measurement do the oblique line that is 12～16 ° of angles of depression with rear upper horizontal line and obtain back porch line;
10) after large line one side of chest measurement backward of the wide line of rear neck is done, lead the parallel lines of wide line to obtain after shoulder breadth line, shoulder seam seam contracting amount after the distance=shoulder breadth/2+ between rear shoulder breadth line and CB, wherein after shoulder seam seam contracting amount be 0.3～0.5cm;
11) after, the intersection point of shoulder breadth line and back porch line is back porch end points.
Further preferably, the determining step of described anter ground line is:
1) on cloth, determine before SNP SIDE NECK POINT, cross front SNP SIDE NECK POINT and do straight line as front upper horizontal line;
2) below front upper horizontal line, do parallel lines and obtain front lower horizontal line, the distance between front lower horizontal line and front upper horizontal line is that measured Attacking Midfielder saves length;
3) along front upper horizontal line, before going to 0.15cm place to do with front SNP SIDE NECK POINT distance for rear neck reductions the vertical line of upper horizontal line obtain before center line;
4) before front SNP SIDE NECK POINT does with respect to the opposite side of front center line the parallel lines of center line obtain before the large line of chest measurement, distance=half chest measurement/2+ chest measurement loose measure+front and back chest measurement of the large line of front chest measurement and front center line is poor/and 2, wherein, chest measurement loose measure is 0.4～0.7cm, and front and back chest measurement is poor is 0.3～0.8cm;
5) vertical line that does front upper horizontal line from front SNP SIDE NECK POINT obtains the wide line of front neck;
6) be that the parallel lines that front upper horizontal line is done at FRONT NECK DROP value place obtain FRONT NECK DROP line from front SNP SIDE NECK POINT along distance under the wide alignment of front neck, described FRONT NECK DROP value is=(neck circumference+neck circumference loose measure)/3.29-1.8cm-after the dark value of neck,
7) intersection point of FRONT NECK DROP line and front center line is foreneck central point;
8) between foreneck central point and front SNP SIDE NECK POINT, do curve and obtain front neck nest line;
9) from front SNP SIDE NECK POINT forward the large line direction of chest measurement do the oblique line that is 20～24 ° of angles of depression with front upper horizontal line and obtain crop line;
10) on crop line, before distance, SNP SIDE NECK POINT is got any for crop end points, crop end points and long-rear shoulder seam seam of front SNP SIDE NECK POINT distance=rear shoulder seam contracting amount, and described rear shoulder seam length is for rear SNP SIDE NECK POINT is to the distance of back porch end points;
11) crossing crop end points makes the parallel lines of the wide line of front neck and obtains front shoulder breadth line.
Useful technique effect of the present invention is: designed fit class crock clothing body prototype cutting method, adopt arm rhizosphere cutting armhole and adopt latasuture length difference to determine chest province province method of cutting out, reduced that armhole is dark, the measurement of across back and dart and draw link, improved the operating efficiency of tailoring; And, the present invention is based on arm rhizosphere cutting armhole, the length of front and back armhole arc is set before drafting clothing body armhole, does sleeve mountain and need not measure, and cutting process is more easy; Meanwhile, determine that according to latasuture length difference chest economizes widely, strengthened contacting of chest province and armhole and this body structure of human body, make the more fit and saving cloth of the clothes of simpler and clearer, the realistic human figure of fit class crock tailoring technique and institute's cutting.
Brief description of the drawings
Fig. 1 is fit class crock clothing body prototype rear panel cutting figure.
Fig. 2 is fit class crock clothing body prototype anter cutting figure.
Detailed description of the invention
Below in conjunction with the drawings and specific embodiments, crock clothing body prototype cutting method of the present invention is described in further detail.
In crock clothing body prototype cutting method of the present invention, to human body dimension measurement, measuring method is as follows:
Chest measurement: natural standing position, enclose length through the chest level of theligonum, with measurements such as tape measures.
Neck circumference: natural standing position, upper limbs naturally droops.At neck root, enclose length from foreneck central point, left SNP SIDE NECK POINT (shoulder neck point), collare central point (C7 point), right SNP SIDE NECK POINT (shoulder neck point) to foreneck central point, with measurements such as tape measures.
Shoulder breadth: natural standing position, upper limbs naturally droops, and measures horizontal arc length between right and left shoulders peak dot, with measurements such as tape measures at back.
Low back joint is long: natural standing position, from SNP SIDE NECK POINT (shoulder neck point) along shoulder blade directly down to the length of curve of waist border line, with measurements such as tape measures.
Attacking Midfielder saves length: natural standing position, from SNP SIDE NECK POINT (shoulder neck point) through breastheight point (newborn point) to waist border line length of curve, with measurements such as tape measures.
Arm rhizosphere: natural standing position, upper limbs naturally droops, and vertically encloses length, with measurements such as tape measures at arm root from acromion point through underarm point to acromion point.
Embodiment 1
The chest measurement, collar, shoulder breadth, the Attacking Midfielder that record certain female body save length, low back joint length and arm rhizosphere size in table 1.
Table 1:
| Chest measurement | Neck circumference | Shoulder breadth | Low back joint is long | Attacking Midfielder saves length | Arm rhizosphere |
| 76 | 34 | 35 | 38 | 39 | 34.5 |
This crock clothing body prototype cutting method, comprises the following steps successively:
The first, determine the rear panel ground line of crock clothing body prototype and the cutting of anter ground line according to waist joint length, chest measurement, shoulder breadth, arm rhizosphere and the neck circumference measured, wherein,
Rear panel ground line comprises: rear upper horizontal line 1, rear lower horizontal line 2, CB 3, the large line 4 of rear chest measurement, rear neck nest line 9, back porch line 10, rear shoulder breadth line 11 and back porch end points 12; Concrete definite method is:
1) do rear upper horizontal line 1: SNP SIDE NECK POINT 6 after determining on cloth, SNP SIDE NECK POINT 6 does straight line as rear upper horizontal line 1 later;
2) do rear lower horizontal line 2: lower horizontal line 2 after doing parallel lines obtain below rear upper horizontal line 1, the vertical range between rear lower horizontal line 2 and rear upper horizontal line 1 is that measured low back saves long 38cm;
3) do CB 3: the vertical line that does rear upper horizontal line 1 for the wide place of rear neck along rear upper horizontal line 1, with rear SNP SIDE NECK POINT 6 distances obtains CB 3, rear neck is wide=((neck circumference+neck circumference loose measure)/3.29+2.1cm)/2=((34+1.5)/3.29+2.1)/2=6.5cm, and wherein neck circumference loose measure is 1.5cm;
4) make the large line 4 of rear chest measurement: the large line 4 of chest measurement after the parallel lines that do CB 3 at rear SNP SIDE NECK POINT 6 with respect to the opposite side of CB 3 obtain, the large line of rear chest measurement 4 and vertical range=half chest measurement/2+ chest measurement loose measure-front and back chest measurement of CB 3 be poor/2=76/2/2+0.7-0.5/2=19.45cm, wherein chest measurement loose measure is 0.7cm, and front and back chest measurement is poor is 0.5cm;
5) make the wide line 5 of rear neck: the vertical line that does rear upper horizontal line 1 from rear SNP SIDE NECK POINT 6 obtains the wide line 5 of rear neck;
6) make the dark line 7 of rear neck: the dark value 2.2cm of neck after adopting, the parallel lines that descend backward the direction distance of horizontal line 2 to do rear upper horizontal line 1 for 2.2cm place along the wide line 5 of rear neck from rear SNP SIDE NECK POINT 6 obtain the dark line 7 of rear neck;
7) do collare central point 8: leading afterwards dark line 7 is collare central point 8 with CB 3 intersection points;
8) make rear neck nest line 9: between collare central point 8 and rear SNP SIDE NECK POINT 6, doing after smooth curve obtains and leading nest line 9;
9) make back porch line 10: do from rear SNP SIDE NECK POINT 6 oblique line that is 15 ° of angles of depression with rear upper horizontal line 1 and obtain back porch line 10;
10) make rear shoulder breadth line 11: shoulder breadth line 11 after leading the parallel lines of wide line 5 to obtain after large line 4 one sides of chest measurement backward of the wide line 5 of rear neck are done, shoulder seam seam contracting amount=35/2+0.3=17.8cm after vertical range=shoulder breadth/2+ between rear shoulder breadth line 11 and CB 3, wherein rear shoulder seam seam contracting amount is 0.3cm;
11) do back porch end points 12: rear shoulder breadth line 11 is back porch end points 12 with the intersection point of back porch line 10;
12) under connection back porch end points 12 and hind flank, put 14 and make back armhole arc 15.
Anter ground line comprises: front upper horizontal line 16, front lower horizontal line 17, front center line 18, the large line 19 of front chest measurement, front neck nest line 24, crop line 25, front shoulder breadth line 26 and crop end points 27;
Concrete definite method is:
1) do front upper horizontal line 16: SNP SIDE NECK POINT 21 before determining on cloth, before crossing, SNP SIDE NECK POINT 21 does straight line as front upper horizontal line 16;
2) do front lower horizontal line 17: below front upper horizontal line 16, do parallel lines and obtain front lower horizontal line 17, the vertical range between front lower horizontal line 17 and front upper horizontal line 16 is that measured Attacking Midfielder saves long 39cm;
3) do front center line 18: the vertical line that goes to 0.15cm place to do front upper horizontal line 16 for rear neck reductions along front upper horizontal line 16, with front SNP SIDE NECK POINT 21 distances obtains front center line 18; This distance is 6.5-0.15=6.35cm;
4) make the large line 19 of front chest measurement: before front SNP SIDE NECK POINT 21 does with respect to the opposite side of front center line 18 parallel lines of center line 18 obtain before the large line 19 of chest measurement, the large line of front chest measurement 19 and vertical range=half chest measurement/2+ chest measurement loose measure+front and back chest measurement of front center line 18 be poor/2=76/2/2+0.7+0.5/2=19.95cm, wherein chest measurement loose measure is 0.7cm, and front and back chest measurement is poor is 0.5cm;
5) make the wide line 20 of front neck: the vertical line that does front upper horizontal line 16 from front SNP SIDE NECK POINT 21 obtains the wide line 20 of front neck;
6) make FRONT NECK DROP line 22: adopt FRONT NECK DROP value for the dark value of neck after=(neck circumference+neck circumference loose measure)/3.29-1.8cm-, obtain FRONT NECK DROP line 22 from front SNP SIDE NECK POINT 21 along wide line 20 parallel lines that distance is done front upper horizontal line 16 for FRONT NECK DROP value place of front neck downwards, wherein neck circumference loose measure is 1.5cm; FRONT NECK DROP value herein=(34+1.5)/3.29-1.8cm-2.2cm=6.79cm;
7) do foreneck central point 23: FRONT NECK DROP line 22 is foreneck central point 23 with the intersection point of front center line 18;
8) make front neck nest line 24: between foreneck central point 23 and front SNP SIDE NECK POINT 21, do curve and obtain front neck nest line 24;
9) from front SNP SIDE NECK POINT 21 forward large line 19 directions of chest measurement do the oblique line that is 20～24 ° of angles of depression with front upper horizontal line 16 and obtain crop line 25;
10) be defined as crop end points 27 along relatively front SNP SIDE NECK POINT 21 distances of crop line 25 for front shoulder seam strong point, wherein: long-rear shoulder seam seam of long=rear shoulder seam of front shoulder seam contracting amount=(11.8-0.3=11.5cm, rear shoulder seam is long for rear SNP SIDE NECK POINT 6 is to the distance of back porch end points 12, by measuring to obtain 11.8cm;
11) parallel lines that crop end points 27 is made the wide line 20 of front neck excessively obtain front shoulder breadth line 26;
The second, determine crock clothing body prototype armhole cutting wires, its method is:
1) do under hind flank and put 14: later point of shoulder point 12 is for drawing camber line in the center of circle, before and after arc radius=(arm rhizosphere+armhole loose measure)/2+ armhole arc length poor/2-back armhole arc string is poor=(34.5+2)/2+0.5-1.32=17.43cm, wherein: armhole loose measure is 2cm, front and back armhole arc length is poor is 1cm, back armhole arc string is poor is 1.32cm, and large line 4 intersection points of drawn camber line and rear chest measurement are to put 14 under hind flank;
2) do back armhole string 13: put 14 under back porch end points 12 and hind flank between, do straight line and obtain back armhole string 13;
3) do back armhole arc 15: draw fixed length curve and obtain back armhole arc 15 to putting the smoother lines of 14 use under hind flank from back porch end points 12, back armhole arc 15 approaches right angle with back porch line 10 intersections, before and after length=(arm rhizosphere+armhole loose measure)/2 ﹢ of back armhole arc 15 armhole arc length poor/2=(34.5 ﹢ 2)/2 ﹢ 0.5=18.75cm;
4) do under fore flank and put 29: former point of shoulder point 27 is for drawing camber line in the center of circle, before and after arc radius=(arm rhizosphere+armhole loose measure)/2-armhole arc length poor/2-before armhole arc string poor=(34.5+2)/2-0.5-3.92=13.83cm, the intersection point of drawn camber line and the large line 19 of front chest measurement is to put 29 under fore flank, wherein: front armhole arc string is poor is 3.92cm;
5) do front armhole string 28: armhole string 28 before doing straight line put 29 under crop end points 27 and fore flank between and obtaining;
6) do front armhole arc 30: obtain front armhole arc 30 from crop end points 27 to putting the smoother stick figure fixed length curve of 29 use under fore flank, front armhole arc 30 approaches right angle with crop line 25 intersections, before and after length=(arm rhizosphere+armhole loose measure)/2-of front armhole arc 30 armhole arc length poor/2=(34.5 ﹢ 2)/2-0.5=17.75cm;
Three, determine that chest economizes, measure and put 29 to front lower horizontal line 17 distance value 21.3cm under fore flank and deduct that under hind flank, to put 14 to the difference 17.4cm of rear lower horizontal line 2 distance values be that chest is economized wide 3.9cm.
Four, carry out cutting according to determined structure line, can obtain fit crock clothing body prototype.
Embodiment 2
The chest measurement, collar, shoulder breadth, the Attacking Midfielder that record certain female body save length, low back joint length and arm rhizosphere size in table 1.
Table 1:
| Chest measurement | Neck circumference | Shoulder breadth | Low back joint is long | Attacking Midfielder saves length | Arm rhizosphere |
| 84 | 35.5 | 37 | 40 | 41.8 | 38 |
This crock clothing body prototype cutting method, comprises the following steps successively:
The first, determine the rear panel ground line of crock clothing body prototype and the cutting of anter ground line according to waist joint length, chest measurement, shoulder breadth, arm rhizosphere and the neck circumference measured, wherein,
Rear panel ground line comprises: rear upper horizontal line 1, rear lower horizontal line 2, CB 3, the large line 4 of rear chest measurement, rear neck nest line 9, back porch line 10, rear shoulder breadth line 11 and back porch end points 12; Concrete definite method is:
1) do rear upper horizontal line 1: SNP SIDE NECK POINT 6 after determining on cloth, SNP SIDE NECK POINT 6 does straight line as rear upper horizontal line 1 later;
2) do rear lower horizontal line 2: lower horizontal line 2 after doing parallel lines obtain below rear upper horizontal line 1, the vertical range between rear lower horizontal line 2 and rear upper horizontal line 1 is that measured low back saves long 40cm;
3) do CB 3: the vertical line that does rear upper horizontal line 1 for the wide place of rear neck along rear upper horizontal line 1, with rear SNP SIDE NECK POINT 6 distances obtains CB 3, rear neck is wide=((neck circumference+neck circumference loose measure)/3.29+2.1cm)/2=((35.5+2.0)/3.29+2.1cm)/2=6.74cm, and wherein neck circumference loose measure is 2.0cm;
4) make the large line 4 of rear chest measurement: the large line 4 of chest measurement after the parallel lines that do CB 3 at rear SNP SIDE NECK POINT 6 with respect to the opposite side of CB 3 obtain, the large line of rear chest measurement 4 and vertical range=half chest measurement/2+ chest measurement loose measure-front and back chest measurement of CB 3 be poor/2=84/2/2+0.5-0.6/2=21.2cm, wherein chest measurement loose measure is 0.5cm, and front and back chest measurement is poor is 0.6cm;
5) make the wide line 5 of rear neck: the vertical line that does rear upper horizontal line 1 from rear SNP SIDE NECK POINT 6 obtains the wide line 5 of rear neck;
6) make the dark line 7 of rear neck: the dark value 2.0cm of neck after adopting, the parallel lines that descend backward the direction distance of horizontal line 2 to do rear upper horizontal line 1 for 2.0cm place along the wide line 5 of rear neck from rear SNP SIDE NECK POINT 6 obtain the dark line 7 of rear neck;
7) do collare central point 8: leading afterwards dark line 7 is collare central point 8 with CB 3 intersection points;
8) make rear neck nest line 9: between collare central point 8 and rear SNP SIDE NECK POINT 6, doing after smooth curve obtains and leading nest line 9;
9) make back porch line 10: do from rear SNP SIDE NECK POINT 6 oblique line that is 14 ° of angles of depression with rear upper horizontal line 1 and obtain back porch line 10;
10) make rear shoulder breadth line 11: at the wide line 5 of rear neck shoulder breadth line 11 after large line 4 one sides of chest measurement lead the parallel lines of wide line 5 to obtain after doing backward, shoulder seam seam contracting amount=37/2+0.4=18.9cm after vertical range=shoulder breadth/2+ between rear shoulder breadth line 11 and CB 3, wherein rear shoulder seam seam contracting amount is 0.4cm;
11) do back porch end points 12: rear shoulder breadth line 11 is back porch end points 12 with the intersection point of back porch line 10;
12) under connection back porch end points 12 and hind flank, put 14 and make back armhole arc 15.
Anter ground line comprises: front upper horizontal line 16, front lower horizontal line 17, front center line 18, the large line 19 of front chest measurement, front neck nest line 24, crop line 25, front shoulder breadth line 26 and crop end points 27;
Concrete definite method is:
1) do front upper horizontal line 16: SNP SIDE NECK POINT 21 before determining on cloth, before crossing, SNP SIDE NECK POINT 21 does straight line as front upper horizontal line 16;
2) do front lower horizontal line 17: below front upper horizontal line 16, do parallel lines and obtain front lower horizontal line 17, the vertical range between front lower horizontal line 17 and front upper horizontal line 16 is that measured Attacking Midfielder saves long 41.8cm;
3) do front center line 18: the vertical line that goes to 0.15cm place to do front upper horizontal line 16 for rear neck reductions along front upper horizontal line 16, with front SNP SIDE NECK POINT 21 distances obtains front center line 18; This distance is 6.74 ﹣ 0.15=6.59cm;
4) make the large line 19 of front chest measurement: before front SNP SIDE NECK POINT 21 does with respect to the opposite side of front center line 18 parallel lines of center line 18 obtain before the large line 19 of chest measurement, the large line of front chest measurement 19 and vertical range=half chest measurement/2+ chest measurement loose measure+front and back chest measurement of front center line 18 be poor/2=84/2/2+0.5+0.6/2=21.8cm, wherein chest measurement loose measure is 0.5cm, and front and back chest measurement is poor is 0.6cm;
5) make the wide line 20 of front neck: the vertical line that does front upper horizontal line 16 from front SNP SIDE NECK POINT 21 obtains the wide line 20 of front neck;
6) make FRONT NECK DROP line 22: adopt FRONT NECK DROP value for the dark value of neck after=(neck circumference+neck circumference loose measure)/3.29-1.8cm-, obtain FRONT NECK DROP line 22 from front SNP SIDE NECK POINT 21 along wide line 20 parallel lines that distance is done front upper horizontal line 16 for FRONT NECK DROP value place of front neck downwards, wherein neck circumference loose measure is 2.0cm; FRONT NECK DROP value herein=(35.5+2.0)/3.29-1.8cm-2.0cm=7.59cm;
7) do foreneck central point 23: FRONT NECK DROP line 22 is foreneck central point 23 with the intersection point of front center line 18;
8) make front neck nest line 24: between foreneck central point 23 and front SNP SIDE NECK POINT 21, do curve and obtain front neck nest line 24;
9) make crop line 25: from front SNP SIDE NECK POINT 21 forward large line 19 directions of chest measurement do the oblique line that is 20～24 ° of angles of depression with front upper horizontal line 16 and obtain crop line 25;
10) do crop end points 27: be defined as crop end points 27 along relatively front SNP SIDE NECK POINT 21 distances of crop line 25 for front shoulder seam strong point, wherein: shoulder seam seam contracting 0.4=12.3cm after the long 12.7-of front shoulder seam length=rear shoulder seam, described rear shoulder seam seam contracting amount is 0.4cm, rear shoulder seam is long for rear SNP SIDE NECK POINT 6 is to the distance of back porch end points 12, by measuring as 12.7cm;
11) make front shoulder breadth line 26: the parallel lines that crop end points 27 is made the wide line 20 of front neck excessively obtain front shoulder breadth line 26;
The second, determine crock clothing body prototype armhole cutting wires, its method is:
1) do under hind flank and put 14: later point of shoulder point 12 is for drawing camber line in the center of circle, before and after arc radius=(arm rhizosphere+armhole loose measure)/2+ armhole arc length poor/2-back armhole arc string is poor=(38+2.2)/2+0.5-1.5=19.1cm, wherein: armhole loose measure is 2.2cm, front and back armhole arc length is poor is 1cm, back armhole arc string is poor is 1.5cm, and large line 4 intersection points of drawn camber line and rear chest measurement are to put 14 under hind flank;
2) do back armhole string 13: put 14 under back porch end points 12 and hind flank between, do straight line and obtain back armhole string 13;
3) do back armhole arc 15: draw fixed length curve and obtain back armhole arc 15 to putting the smoother lines of 14 use under hind flank from back porch end points 12, back armhole arc 15 approaches right angle with back porch line 10 intersections, before and after length=(arm rhizosphere+armhole loose measure)/2 ﹢ of back armhole arc 15 armhole arc length poor/2=(38 ﹢ 2.2)/2 ﹢ 0.5=20.6cm;
4) do under fore flank and put 29: former point of shoulder point 27 is for drawing camber line in the center of circle, before and after arc radius=(arm rhizosphere+armhole loose measure)/2-armhole arc length poor/2-before armhole arc string poor=(38+2.0)/2-0.5-3.92=15.58cm, the intersection point of drawn camber line and the large line 19 of front chest measurement is to put 29 under fore flank, wherein: front armhole arc string is poor is 3.92cm;
5) do front armhole string 28: armhole string 28 before doing straight line put 29 under crop end points 27 and fore flank between and obtaining;
6) do front armhole arc 30: obtain front armhole arc 30 from crop end points 27 to putting the smoother stick figure fixed length curve of 29 use under fore flank, front armhole arc 30 approaches right angle with crop line 25 intersections, before and after length=(arm rhizosphere+armhole loose measure)/2-of front armhole arc 30 armhole arc length poor/2=(38 ﹢ 2.0)/2-0.5=19.55cm;
Three, determine that chest economizes, measure and put 29 to front lower horizontal line 17 distance value 22.2cm under fore flank and deduct that under hind flank, to put 14 be that chest is economized the wide 4.7cm of being to the difference of rear lower horizontal line 2 distance value 17.5cm.
Four, carry out cutting according to determined structure line, can obtain fit crock clothing body prototype.
Claims (3)
1. a fit class crock clothing body prototype cutting method, is characterized in that: it comprises the following steps successively:
The first, determine the rear panel ground line of crock clothing body prototype and the cutting of anter ground line according to waist joint length, chest measurement, shoulder breadth, arm rhizosphere and the neck circumference measured, wherein,
Described rear panel ground line comprises: rear upper horizontal line (1), rear lower horizontal line (2), CB (3), the large line of rear chest measurement (4), rear neck nest line (9), back porch line (10), rear shoulder breadth line (11) and back porch end points (12);
Described anter ground line comprises: front upper horizontal line (16), front lower horizontal line (17), front center line (18), the large line of front chest measurement (19), front neck nest line (24), crop line (25), front shoulder breadth line (26) and crop end points (27);
The second, determine crock clothing body prototype armhole cutting wires, its method is:
1) after, point of shoulder point (12) is for drawing camber line in the center of circle, arc radius be before and after the ﹢ of (arm rhizosphere ﹢ armhole loose measure)/2 armhole arc length poor/2 ﹣ back armhole arc strings are poor, drawn camber line and the large line of rear chest measurement (4) intersection point are point (14) under hind flank, wherein, armhole loose measure is 1.5～2.5cm, and front and back armhole arc length is poor is 1cm; Back armhole arc string is poor is 1.32～1.55cm;
2) under back porch end points (12) and hind flank, between point (14), do straight line and obtain back armhole string (13);
3) draw fixed length curve to point (14) under hind flank with smoother lines from back porch end points (12) and obtain back armhole arc (15), back armhole arc (15) and back porch line (10) intersection approach right angle, the length of back armhole arc (15) be (arm rhizosphere+armhole loose measure)/2 ﹢ front and back armhole arc length poor/2;
4) before, point of shoulder point (27) is for drawing camber line in the center of circle, arc radius be before and after (arm rhizosphere+armhole loose measure)/2-armhole arc length poor/2-before armhole arc string poor, the intersection point of drawn camber line and the large line of front chest measurement (19) is point (29) under fore flank, wherein, front armhole arc string is poor is 3.92～4.15cm;
5) under crop end points (27) and fore flank, between point (29), do straight line and obtain front armhole string (28);
6) obtain front armhole arc (30) from crop end points (27) to point (29) under fore flank with smoother stick figure fixed length curve, front armhole arc (30) and crop line (25) intersection approach right angle, front armhole arc (30) length be (arm rhizosphere+armhole loose measure)/2 ﹣ front and back armhole arc length poor/2;
Three, determine that chest economizes, under described fore flank, to deduct point (14) under hind flank to the difference of rear lower horizontal line (2) distance value be that chest is economized wide to point (29) to front lower horizontal line (17) distance value;
Four, carry out cutting according to determined structure line.
2. fit class crock clothing body prototype cutting method according to claim 1, is characterized in that: the determining step of described rear panel ground line is:
1) on cloth, determine rear SNP SIDE NECK POINT (6), SNP SIDE NECK POINT (6) does straight line as rear upper horizontal line (1) later;
2) do parallel lines in rear upper horizontal line (1) below and obtain rear lower horizontal line (2), the vertical range between rear lower horizontal line (2) and rear upper horizontal line (1) is measured low back joint length;
3) along rear upper horizontal line (1), obtaining CB (3) at the vertical line that does rear upper horizontal line (1) for the wide place of rear neck with rear SNP SIDE NECK POINT (6) distance, rear neck is wide=((neck circumference+neck circumference loose measure)/3.29+2.1cm)/2, and wherein neck circumference loose measure is 1.0～2.0cm;
4) parallel lines that do CB (3) at rear SNP SIDE NECK POINT (6) with respect to the opposite side of CB (3) obtain the large line of rear chest measurement (4), the distance of the large line of rear chest measurement (4) and CB (3) be half chest measurement/2+ chest measurement loose measure-front and back chest measurement poor/2, wherein, chest measurement loose measure is 0.4～0.7cm, and front and back chest measurement is poor is 0.3～0.8cm;
5) vertical line that does rear upper horizontal line (1) from rear SNP SIDE NECK POINT (6) obtains the wide line of rear neck (5);
6) descend backward horizontal line (2) direction distance to obtain the dark line of rear neck (7) for the rear neck parallel lines that rear upper horizontal line (1) is done at value place deeply from rear SNP SIDE NECK POINT (6) along the wide line of rear neck (5), wherein, the dark value of rear neck is 1.8～2.2cm;
7) after, the dark line of neck (7) is collare central point (8) with CB (3) intersection point;
8) between collare central point (8) and rear SNP SIDE NECK POINT (6), do smooth curve and obtain rear neck nest line (9);
9) from rear SNP SIDE NECK POINT (6) backward the large line of chest measurement (4) direction do the oblique line that is 12～16 ° of angles of depression with rear upper horizontal line (1) and obtain back porch line (10);
10) parallel lines that make the wide line of rear neck (5) in large line (4) one sides of chest measurement backward of the wide line of rear neck (5) obtain rear shoulder breadth line (11), distance between rear shoulder breadth line (11) and CB (3) is shoulder seam seam contracting amount after shoulder breadth/2+, and wherein rear shoulder seam seam contracting amount is 0.3～0.5cm;
11) after, shoulder breadth line (11) is back porch end points (12) with the intersection point of back porch line (10).
3. fit class crock clothing body prototype cutting method according to claim 1 and 2, is characterized in that: the determining step of described anter ground line is:
1) on cloth, determine before SNP SIDE NECK POINT (21), cross front SNP SIDE NECK POINT (21) and do straight line as front upper horizontal line (16);
2) do parallel lines in front upper horizontal line (16) below and obtain front lower horizontal line (17), the vertical range between front lower horizontal line (17) and front upper horizontal line (16) is that measured Attacking Midfielder saves length;
3) along front upper horizontal line (16), obtaining front center line (18) at the vertical line that goes to 0.15cm place to do front upper horizontal line (16) for rear neck reductions with front SNP SIDE NECK POINT (21) distance;
4) parallel lines that do front center line (18) at front SNP SIDE NECK POINT (21) with respect to the opposite side of front center line (18) obtain the large line of front chest measurement (19), the distance of the large line of front chest measurement (19) and front center line (18) be half chest measurement/2+ chest measurement loose measure+front and back chest measurement poor/2, wherein, chest measurement loose measure is 0.4～0.7cm, and front and back chest measurement is poor is 0.3～0.8cm;
5) vertical line that does front upper horizontal line (16) from front SNP SIDE NECK POINT (21) obtains the wide line of front neck (20);
6) obtain FRONT NECK DROP line (22) from front SNP SIDE NECK POINT (21) along the wide line of front neck (20) parallel lines that distance is done front upper horizontal line (16) for FRONT NECK DROP value place downwards, wherein, the dark value of neck after FRONT NECK DROP value=(neck circumference+neck circumference loose measure)/3.29-1.8cm-;
7) FRONT NECK DROP line (22) is foreneck central point (23) with the intersection point of front center line (18);
8) between foreneck central point (23) and front SNP SIDE NECK POINT (21), do curve and obtain front neck nest line (24);
9) from front SNP SIDE NECK POINT (21) forward the large line of chest measurement (19) direction do the oblique line that is 20～24 ° of angles of depression with front upper horizontal line (16) and obtain crop line (25);
10) before the upper distance of crop line (25), SNP SIDE NECK POINT (21) is got any for crop end points (27), crop end points (27) and long-rear shoulder seam seam of front SNP SIDE NECK POINT (21) distance=rear shoulder seam contracting amount, described rear shoulder seam is long for rear SNP SIDE NECK POINT (6) is to the distance of back porch end points (12);
11) cross the parallel lines that crop end points (27) makes the wide line of front neck (20) and obtain front shoulder breadth line (26).
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| CN112545090A (en) * | 2020-11-30 | 2021-03-26 | 际华三五零二职业装有限公司 | Method for making plate of women's jacket |
| CN112741379A (en) * | 2020-12-31 | 2021-05-04 | 浙江乔治白服饰股份有限公司 | Method for manufacturing suit of shoulder peak and chest height area flat suit |
| CN113425024A (en) * | 2021-06-30 | 2021-09-24 | 陈观众 | Method for making plate of women's jacket by using human body as prototype |
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| CN113425024B (en) * | 2021-06-30 | 2022-06-03 | 陈观众 | Method for making plate of women's jacket by using human body as prototype |
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