CN103820914A - China-hemp Dai fabric and production process thereof - Google Patents

China-hemp Dai fabric and production process thereof Download PDF

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Publication number
CN103820914A
CN103820914A CN201410088712.3A CN201410088712A CN103820914A CN 103820914 A CN103820914 A CN 103820914A CN 201410088712 A CN201410088712 A CN 201410088712A CN 103820914 A CN103820914 A CN 103820914A
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fabric
warp
parallel
twist
dai
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CN103820914B (en
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朱威
郭刚
李彦
吕香红
李永航
高志强
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YUNNAN HEMP FIBER TECHNOLOGY DEVELOPMENT Co Ltd
SHANGHAI JUNTEX TEXTILE Co Ltd
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YUNNAN HEMP FIBER TECHNOLOGY DEVELOPMENT Co Ltd
SHANGHAI JUNTEX TEXTILE Co Ltd
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Abstract

The invention discloses a China-hemp Dai fabric which is formed by interweaving warps and wefts through a jacguard; the warps are blended yarns of China-hemp and lustrous rayons; the weight ratio of the China-hemp to lustrous rayons in the warps is 30-50:50-70; the count of the warps are 60-45s and the twist coefficient of the warps is 450-490; the wefts are blended yarns of Porel fibers and Dacron; the weight ratio of the Porel fibers to Dacron in the wefts is 20-35:65-80, the denier of the wefts is 100-200D and the twist coefficient is 370-390. The China-hemp Dai fabric is bright-colored and soft in hand feeling and has the self-temperature and humidity adjusting, controlling and balancing function and the strength and performance of the China-hemp Dai fabric also meet the industrial production demands.

Description

A kind of Han Ma Dai Nationality's cloth fabric and production technology thereof
Technical field
The present invention relates to a kind of weaving face fabric, relate in particular to Dai Nationality's cloth fabric and the production technology thereof of the large jacquard weave of a kind of Chinese fiber crops.
Background technology
On market, the national costume fabric of fabric, especially the Dai nationality of many national costume is substantially all lucuriant in design now, the jacquard fabrics of pattern complexity, this Dai Nationality cloth jacquard fabrics is mainly with real silk, terylene, or cotton fiber is raw material, especially take polyester fabric as main.But not the fabric of terylene only has manual product, cannot carry out large-scale production.The shortcoming of existing the Dai nationality garment material is for not absorbing water, airtight, and under local natural conditions, comfort level is very poor, and because the jacquard weave part material of Dai Nationality's cloth exists certain problem, has serious prodding and itching feeling while causing wearing.
" flax fibre " in daily life, mainly take the small stores such as " rope made of hemp ", " gunnysack " as main, give people feel be: outward appearance is comparatively coarse, stiff, and color and luster withers secretly, wear-resisting, and skin contact is uncomfortable etc.Along with development in science and technology " flax fibre " textiles is more and more, Related product is also more and more abundanter.But up to the present, due to the rigidity of flax fibre, be mainly still used on part weft-knitted fabric and simple woven, adopt on the numb garment material market of large jacquard weave weave and also do not have.
Due to Chinese fiber crops, to have good fiber functional, and the fabric of being made up of china-hemp fibers, has moisture absorbing and sweat releasing permeability, and has natural biocidal property, remarkable ultraviolet-resistent property.So, applied in the exploitation of knitwear and gone, to improve knit product green health, save energy own profound meaning.
But china-hemp fibers bending and torsion rigidity is large, fiber is difficult for obvolvent, and irregularity of length is higher, and fiber head end easily ejects yarn body, and filoplume is many, firmly grows.So the pure Chinese dimity is hard, crisp, straight, exist single lowly by force, the defect such as fiber crops knot is many, has caused the difficulty of kinking, lopping to knitting braiding, and when braiding, broken yarn is many, fault is many, do not press-off.
Summary of the invention
The shortcoming of prior art in view of the above, the object of the present invention is to provide the production technology of a kind of Dai Nationality cloth fabric, be specially the production technology of Dai Nationality's cloth fabric of the large jacquard weave of a kind of Chinese fiber crops, realized the object of Dai Nationality's cloth fabric mechanization large-scale production of the large jacquard weaves of Chinese fiber crops.
For achieving the above object and other object, the present invention adopts following technical scheme to realize:
One Han Ma Dai Nationality cloth fabric, interweaved and be made into through jacquard by warp and parallel, described warp is Chinese fiber crops and bright rayon's blended yarn, and in warp, Chinese fiber crops and bright rayon's weight ratio is 30-50:50-70, the number of described warp is 60-45s, and twist multiplier is 450-490; Described parallel is the blended yarn of Porel fiber and terylene, and in parallel, the weight ratio of Porel fiber and terylene is 20-35:65-80, and the dawn number of described parallel is 100-200D, and twist multiplier is 370-390.
Preferably, described bright rayon's the monofilament twist is 200 sth. made by twisting, and dawn number is 120D; The number of described Chinese fiber crops is 40s, and the twist is 18/ inch.
In the present invention, bright rayon's the monofilament twist is 200 sth. made by twisting, lower than the sth. made by twisting of 400 in common process, thereby has guaranteed the glossiness of fabric of the present invention.
Porel fiber compared with common polyester fiber, the hydrophilic radical of introducing and soft segment, and adopted capillary cavity structure, it is applied to fabric of the present invention and makes it have that automatic adjusting is wet, thermally equilibrated function,
Preferably, described warp adopts 2-3 root Chinese fiber crops and bright rayon's blended yarn plying, and the twist of the warp after plying is twist with the fingers/inch of 20-50.The fabric forming after plying has better brute force and surface effect.
Preferably, described parallel adopts the blended yarn plying of 2-3 root Porel fiber and terylene to form.
Preferably, the warp density of described fabric is 405-500 root/10cm.
Warp described in the present invention is for becoming by existing compact spinning technology blending.
Preferably, the weft density of described fabric has multiple and variable; The structure of weft density has 6, specifically comprises following several: 24 pieces/centimetre; 40 pieces/centimetre; 60 pieces/centimetre; 80 pieces/centimetre; 100 pieces/centimetre; 120 pieces/centimetre;
Parallel adopts multiple color, and color category is 2~8 kinds; Preferably, the color category of parallel is 2~6 kinds.
The invention also discloses a kind of method of preparing Han Ma Dai Nationality cloth fabric described above, described method is weaved for warp and parallel being used the Japanese JA710 of Toyota jet type loom and French history pottery Bill LX320 dress make, the decorative pattern grain pattern of jacquard weave is transferred to board computer, and make fabric organization chart by photo rotary process, while weaving jacquard weave, circulation of flower type is 2.6m;
The parameter of the Japan JA710 of Toyota jet type loom is set to: main burner pressure is 3-3.5kg/cm 2, auxiliary spray pressure 4-4.5kg/cm 2, the speed of a motor vehicle be 430-460 turn/hour, enter the latitude time to be designed to 90 °, back beam height is-2 scales, tension force is 140-160kg, opening angle is 30 °-35 °, opening closing time is 290 °;
France history pottery Bill LX320 fill the parameter of making and is set to: pin number 6,144 one hangs one, and always through 3800,65.8/ inch of porter, penetrates several 2, and limit penetrates several 3,145 centimetres of reed widths, 135 centimetres.
Preferably, the parameter of the Japanese JA710 of Toyota jet type loom is set to: the speed of a motor vehicle be 450 turn/hour, tension force is 150Kg.
Preferably, adopt two clothes to close the combination of weaving of knitting in weaving process, one is done 20 circulations, and totally 40, both sides add the plain weave of 30 centimeters, does not destroy every completing property of clothes of the inside in like this can the arrangement in Hou road.Adopt this weaving process, originally locate every cloth of jacquard weave and want loss 2-3 rice practicing in whole and dyeing, the loss of present every cloth of jacquard weave is 60 centimeters; Fabric utilization rate improves 8%, and solely the proportion of goods damageds in the processing procedure of colored fabric have reduced 20%.
In the present invention, use the equipment up to 6 kinds of filling densities, and by selecting the produced Han Ma of specific warp and parallel Dai Nationality cloth fabric not only to weaken the rigidity of blended yarn, make the phenomenon that its broken yarn in industrialization fabrication processes is many, fault many and do not press-off obtain improving greatly, can meet the demand of suitability for industrialized production; In the present invention, adopt multiple filling density and filling density variable, this makes the fabric decorative pattern complexity of weaving out, bright-colored, have better visual effect and, fabric has silk gloss, and soft, I automatically control damp and hot function to have moisture absorbing and sweat releasing; Improve the snugness of fit of national costume.
The specific embodiment
Below, by specific instantiation explanation embodiments of the present invention, those skilled in the art can understand other advantages of the present invention and effect easily by the disclosed content of this description.The present invention can also be implemented or be applied by the other different specific embodiment, and the every details in this description also can be based on different viewpoints and application, carries out various modifications or change not deviating under spirit of the present invention.
Embodiment 1
Warp: Chinese fiber crops and bright rayon's weight ratio is 30:70, and the number of described warp is 60s, and twist multiplier is 450, and warp density is 450/10cm; Obtain single-strand yarn by existing compact spinning technology.
Parallel: the weight ratio of Porel fiber and terylene is 20:80, the dawn number of described parallel is 120D, and twist multiplier is 370, and weft density is 230/440 every centimetre; Parallel color category is two kinds;
Use the Japanese JA710 of Toyota jet type loom and French history pottery Bill LX320 dress to make and weave, the decorative pattern grain pattern of jacquard weave is transferred to board computer, and makes fabric organization chart by photo rotary process, and while weaving jacquard weave, circulation of flower type is 2.6m;
The parameter of the Japan JA710 of Toyota jet type loom is set to: main burner pressure is 3-3.5kg/cm 2, auxiliary spray pressure 4-4.5kg/cm 2, the speed of a motor vehicle be 450 turn/hour, enter the latitude time to be designed to 90 °, back beam height is-2 scales, tension force is 150kg, opening angle is 30 °-35 °, opening closing time is 290 °;
France history pottery Bill LX320 fill the parameter of making and is set to: pin number 6,144 one hangs one, and always through 3800,65.8/ inch of porter, penetrates several 2, and limit penetrates several 3,145 centimetres of reed widths, 135 centimetres.
The clean base physical index that obtains fabric in the present embodiment 1 is:
Clean base amplitude: 132-136cm; Dry weight: 155-175g/m 2;
Powerful: 320-370N; Washing shrinkage (straight/horizontal stroke): 0-1.0%/0-3%.
Thickness: 37M/M.
Broken yarn according to yarn in weaving process weaving process in the present embodiment is few, fault is few and the phenomenon of press-offing is not obvious; Fabric decorative pattern complexity, bright-colored, have better visual effect and, fabric has silk gloss.
Embodiment 2
Warp: in warp, Chinese fiber crops and bright rayon's weight ratio is 35:65, and the number of described warp is 50s, and twist multiplier is 460, and warp density is 420/10cm; Warp is for obtaining single-strand yarn by existing compact spinning technology.
Parallel: the weight ratio of Porel fiber and terylene is 35:65, the dawn number of described parallel is 100D, twist multiplier is 390; Weft density is 280 every centimetre; Described parallel adopts the blended yarn plying of 2 sub-thread Porel fibers and terylene to form.
Use the Japanese JA710 of Toyota jet type loom and French history pottery Bill LX320 dress to make and weave, the decorative pattern grain pattern of jacquard weave is transferred to board computer, and makes fabric organization chart by photo rotary process, and while weaving jacquard weave, circulation of flower type is 2.6m;
The parameter of the Japan JA710 of Toyota jet type loom is set to: main burner pressure is 3-3.5kg/cm 2, auxiliary spray pressure 4-4.5kg/cm 2, the speed of a motor vehicle be 460 turn/hour, enter the latitude time to be designed to 90 °, back beam height is-2 scales, tension force is 140kg, opening angle is 30 °-35 °, opening closing time is 290 °;
France history pottery Bill LX320 fill the parameter of making and is set to: pin number 6,144 one hangs one, and always through 3800,65.8/ inch of porter, penetrates several 2, and limit penetrates several 3,145 centimetres of reed widths, 135 centimetres.
The clean base physical index that obtains fabric in the present embodiment 2 is:
Base amplitude: 132-136cm; Dry weight: 135-155g/m 2;
Powerful: 320-370N; Washing shrinkage (straight/horizontal stroke): 0-1.0%/0-3%.
Thickness: 35M/M.
Broken yarn according to yarn in weaving process weaving process in the present embodiment is few, fault is few and the phenomenon of press-offing is not obvious; Fabric decorative pattern complexity, bright-colored, have better visual effect and, fabric has silk gloss.
Embodiment 3
Warp: Chinese fiber crops and bright rayon's weight ratio is 40:60, and the number of described warp is 55s, and twist multiplier is 470, and warp density is 450/10cm; Obtain single-strand yarn by existing compact spinning technology.
Parallel: the weight ratio of Porel fiber and terylene is 30:70, the dawn number of described parallel is 200D, twist multiplier is 390; Weft density is 230/400/600/800 every centimetre, and parallel is 6 colors; Described parallel adopts the blended yarn plying of 3 sub-thread Porel fibers and terylene to form.
Use the Japanese JA710 of Toyota jet type loom and French history pottery Bill LX320 dress to make and weave, the decorative pattern grain pattern of jacquard weave is transferred to board computer, and makes fabric organization chart by photo rotary process, and while weaving jacquard weave, circulation of flower type is 2.6m;
The parameter of the Japan JA710 of Toyota jet type loom is set to: main burner pressure is 3-3.5kg/cm 2, auxiliary spray pressure 4-4.5kg/cm 2, the speed of a motor vehicle be 460 turn/hour, enter the latitude time to be designed to 90 °, back beam height is-2 scales, tension force is 160kg, opening angle is 30 °-35 °, opening closing time is 290 °;
France history pottery Bill LX320 fill the parameter of making and is set to: pin number 6,144 one hangs one, and always through 3800,65.8/ inch of porter, penetrates several 2, and limit penetrates several 3,145 centimetres of reed widths, 135 centimetres.
The clean base physical index that obtains fabric in the present embodiment 3 is:
Base amplitude: 132-136cm; Dry weight: 210-230g/m 2;
Powerful: 320-370N; Washing shrinkage (straight/horizontal stroke): 0-1.0%/0-3%.
Thickness: 51M/M.
Broken yarn according to yarn in weaving process weaving process in the present embodiment is few, fault is few and the phenomenon of press-offing is not obvious; Fabric decorative pattern complexity, bright-colored, have better visual effect and, fabric has silk gloss.
Embodiment 4
Warp: Chinese fiber crops and bright rayon's weight ratio is 50:50, and the number of described warp is 45s, and twist multiplier is 450; Warp density is 400/10cm; Obtaining single-strand yarn by the 2 existing compact spinning technologies of pooling capital forms.
Parallel: the weight ratio of Porel fiber and terylene is 35:65, the dawn number of described parallel is 200D, twist multiplier is 390; Weft density is 230/400/600 every centimetre, and parallel is 2 kinds of colors; Described parallel adopts the blended yarn plying of 3 sub-thread Porel fibers and terylene to form.
Use the Japanese JA710 of Toyota jet type loom and French history pottery Bill LX320 dress to make and weave, the decorative pattern grain pattern of jacquard weave is transferred to board computer, and makes fabric organization chart by photo rotary process, and while weaving jacquard weave, circulation of flower type is 2.6m;
The parameter of the Japan JA710 of Toyota jet type loom is set to: main burner pressure is 3-3.5kg/cm 2, auxiliary spray pressure 4-4.5kg/cm 2, the speed of a motor vehicle be 430 turn/hour, enter the latitude time to be designed to 90 °, back beam height is-2 scales, tension force is 140kg, opening angle is 30 °-35 °, opening closing time is 290 °;
France history pottery Bill LX320 fill the parameter of making and is set to: pin number 6,144 one hangs one, and always through 3800,65.8/ inch of porter, penetrates several 2, and limit penetrates several 3,145 centimetres of reed widths, 135 centimetres.
The clean base physical index that obtains fabric in the present embodiment 4 is:
Base amplitude: 132-136cm; Dry weight: 210-230g/m 2;
Powerful: 320-370N; Washing shrinkage (straight/horizontal stroke): 0-1.0%/0-3%.
Thickness: 51M/M.
Broken yarn according to yarn in weaving process weaving process in the present embodiment is few, fault is few and the phenomenon of press-offing is not obvious; Fabric decorative pattern complexity, bright-colored, have better visual effect and, fabric has silk gloss.
Embodiment 5
Warp: Chinese fiber crops and bright rayon's weight ratio is 45:55, and the number of described warp is 45s, and twist multiplier is 490, and warp density is 460/10cm; Obtaining single-strand yarn by the 2 existing compact spinning technologies of pooling capital forms;
Parallel: the weight ratio of Porel fiber and terylene is 25:75, the dawn number of described parallel is 100D, twist multiplier is 370; Weft density is 230/400/600 every centimetre, and the color category of parallel is 3 kinds; Described parallel adopts the blended yarn plying of 3 sub-thread Porel fibers and terylene to form.
Use the Japanese JA710 of Toyota jet type loom and French history pottery Bill LX320 dress to make and weave, the decorative pattern grain pattern of jacquard weave is transferred to board computer, and makes fabric organization chart by photo rotary process, and while weaving jacquard weave, circulation of flower type is 2.6m;
The parameter of the Japan JA710 of Toyota jet type loom is set to: main burner pressure is 3-3.5kg/cm 2, auxiliary spray pressure 4-4.5kg/cm 2, the speed of a motor vehicle be 430-460 turn/hour, enter the latitude time to be designed to 90 °, back beam height is-2 scales, tension force is 140-160kg, opening angle is 30 °-35 °, opening closing time is 290 °;
France history pottery Bill LX320 fill the parameter of making and is set to: pin number 6,144 one hangs one, and always through 3800,65.8/ inch of porter, penetrates several 2, and limit penetrates several 3,145 centimetres of reed widths, 135 centimetres.
The clean base physical index that obtains fabric in the present embodiment 5 is:
Base amplitude: 132-136cm; Dry weight: 210-230g/m 2;
Powerful: 320-370N; Washing shrinkage (straight/horizontal stroke): 0-1.0%/0-3%.
Thickness: 51M/M.
Broken yarn according to yarn in weaving process weaving process in the present embodiment is few, fault is few and the phenomenon of press-offing is not obvious; Fabric decorative pattern complexity, bright-colored, have better visual effect and, fabric has silk gloss.
Embodiment 6
Warp: Chinese fiber crops and bright rayon's weight ratio is 30:70, and the number of described warp is 60s, and twist multiplier is 490, and warp density is 480/10cm; Obtain single-strand yarn by existing compact spinning technology;
Parallel: the weight ratio of Porel fiber and terylene is 30:70, the dawn number of described parallel is 200D, twist multiplier is 90; Weft density is 230/400/600/1000 every centimetre; Parallel color category is 6 kinds; Described parallel adopts the blended yarn plying of 3 sub-thread Porel fibers and terylene to form;
Use the Japanese JA710 of Toyota jet type loom and French history pottery Bill LX320 dress to make and weave, the decorative pattern grain pattern of jacquard weave is transferred to board computer, and makes fabric organization chart by photo rotary process, and while weaving jacquard weave, circulation of flower type is 2.6m;
The parameter of the Japan JA710 of Toyota jet type loom is set to: main burner pressure is 3-3.5kg/cm 2, auxiliary spray pressure 4-4.5kg/cm 2, the speed of a motor vehicle be 460 turn/hour, enter the latitude time to be designed to 90 °, back beam height is-2 scales, tension force is 160kg, opening angle is 30 °-35 °, opening closing time is 290 °;
France history pottery Bill LX320 fill the parameter of making and is set to: pin number 6,144 one hangs one, and always through 3800,65.8/ inch of porter, penetrates several 2, and limit penetrates several 3,145 centimetres of reed widths, 135 centimetres.
The clean base physical index that obtains fabric in the present embodiment 6 is:
Base amplitude: 132-136cm; Dry weight: 230-250g/m 2;
Powerful: 320-370N; Washing shrinkage (straight/horizontal stroke): 0-1.0%/0-3%.
Thickness: 55M/M.
Broken yarn according to yarn in weaving process weaving process in the present embodiment is few, fault is few and the phenomenon of press-offing is not obvious; Fabric decorative pattern complexity, bright-colored, have better visual effect and, fabric has silk gloss.

Claims (5)

1. a Zhong Hanma Dai Nationality cloth fabric, interweave and be made into through jacquard by warp and parallel, it is characterized in that, described warp is Chinese fiber crops and bright rayon's blended yarn, in warp, Chinese fiber crops and bright rayon's weight ratio is 30-50:50-70, the number of described warp is 60-45s, and twist multiplier is 450-490; Described parallel is the blended yarn of Porel fiber and terylene, and in parallel, the weight ratio of Porel fiber and terylene is 20-35:65-80, and the dawn number of described parallel is 100-200D, and twist multiplier is 370-390.
2. Han Ma as claimed in claim 1 Dai Nationality cloth fabric, is characterized in that, described bright rayon's the monofilament twist is 200 sth. made by twisting, and dawn number is 120D; The number of described Chinese fiber crops is 40s, and the twist is 18 sth. made by twisting/inches.
3. Han Ma as claimed in claim 1 Dai Nationality cloth fabric, is characterized in that, described warp adopts the Chinese fiber crops of 2-3 root and bright rayon's blended yarn plying, the twist of the warp after plying be 20-50 twist with the fingers/inch.
4. Han Ma as claimed in claim 1 Dai Nationality cloth fabric, is characterized in that, the warp density of described fabric is 405-500 root/10cm.
5. prepare the method for the Han Ma Dai Nationality cloth fabric as described in claim as arbitrary in claim 1-4 for one kind, described method is weaved for warp and parallel being used the Japanese JA710 of Toyota jet type loom and French history pottery Bill LX320 dress make, the decorative pattern grain pattern of jacquard weave is transferred to board computer, and make fabric organization chart by photo rotary process, while weaving jacquard weave, circulation of flower type is 2.6m;
The parameter of the Japan JA710 of Toyota jet type loom is set to: main burner pressure is 3-3.5kg/cm 2, auxiliary spray pressure 4-4.5kg/cm 2, the speed of a motor vehicle be 430-460 turn/hour, enter the latitude time to be designed to 90 °, back beam height is-2 scales, tension force is 140-160kg, opening angle is 30 °-35 °, opening closing time is 290 °;
France history pottery Bill LX320 fill the parameter of making and is set to: pin number 6,144 one hangs one, and always through 3800,65.8/ inch of porter, penetrates several 2, and limit penetrates several 3,145 centimetres of reed widths, 135 centimetres.
CN201410088712.3A 2014-03-11 2014-03-11 A kind of Han Ma Dai Nationality cloth fabric and production technology thereof Active CN103820914B (en)

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WO2018090270A1 (en) * 2016-11-17 2018-05-24 陈霞 Yarn-dyed fabric having excellent performance

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