CN103668704A - Novel technology for weaving song brocade - Google Patents
Novel technology for weaving song brocade Download PDFInfo
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- CN103668704A CN103668704A CN201210320460.3A CN201210320460A CN103668704A CN 103668704 A CN103668704 A CN 103668704A CN 201210320460 A CN201210320460 A CN 201210320460A CN 103668704 A CN103668704 A CN 103668704A
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Abstract
The invention discloses a novel technology for weaving song brocade. The novel technology comprises the following steps that firstly, first warp raw materials, second warp raw materials and weft raw materials are selected; secondly, the first warp raw materials and the second warp raw materials are steeped; thirdly, the first warp raw materials and the second warp raw materials are naturally aired; fourthly, reeling is conducted on first warp and second warp; fifthly, twisting, sizing, combination, secondary twisting, sizing, skein forming, silk dyeing and winding are conducted on the first warp in sequence; sixthly, warping is conducted on the first warp and the second warp; seventhly, raw material selection, color absorption testing, dyeing and detection are conducted on weft in sequence; eighthly, the first warp, the second warp and the weft are woven on a rapier jacquard loom. The song brocade fabric is woven from real silk and viscose through the novel rapier jacquard loom according to the technology and classic traditional graphic pattern and color in history, waterproof, antifouling and oil-proof treatment adopted by a chemical fiber industry is utilized, so that the song brocade is fine and smooth in weave grain, attractive in pattern, sufficiently practical. According to the technology, the traditional technology and the modern fashion are perfectly combined.
Description
Technical field
The present invention relates to doskin weaving technology field, be specifically related to a kind of novel technique of weaving Song Dynasty brocade.
Background technology
Song Dynasty brocade originates from the Song dynasty, rises in Suzhou, therefore be referred to as again " Suzhou Song Dynasty brocade ".Song Gaozong widelys popularize Song Dynasty brocade in order to meet imperial palace dress ornament and mounting of calligraphy and painting needs at that time, and in Suzhou, has set up Song Dynasty brocade to weave administration specially.Its quality is beautiful clearly, technique is unique, has the laudatory title of " beautiful hat ".But along with epoch transition, complicated craft is weaved and expensive production cost, make Song Dynasty brocade lose gradually advantage in the past and intrinsic market, be on the verge of people's exhausted danger of skill of dying.2006, " Song Dynasty brocade is weaved skill " was selected national non-material cultural heritage, selected mankind's non-material cultural heritage masterpiece register in 2009.
Song Dynasty brocade manufacture craft is comparatively complicated, and general brocade just parallel rockets, and Song Dynasty brocade is that longitude and latitude rockets simultaneously, and weaves general employing " three pieces of twill-weave ", and two through three latitudes, end warp and face warp for warp, and ground-tint, through being coloured boiled-off silk, is made in the end; Face is through using true qualities raw silk, the knot of making parallel connect through, in a word in short, do not count line version in and make, only weave program, Song Dynasty brocade is than more than the time-consuming twice of general brocade.Song Dynasty brocade dyeing needs the natural dye with pure natural, first need to dye color and just can enter weaving process according to floral designs by silk.Dyestuff is selected very strict, is vegetable colour mostly, also has part mineral dye, all adopts hand dyeing to form.In addition, the time of Song Dynasty brocade making line version is also very long, and the little Hua type of 20 centimetres, need to make 1800 versions, and time-consuming more than one month, great Hua type must spend the more time.Therefore the large feature yield poorly, cost height being traditional Song Dynasty brocade.To modern times, after silk spinnery, due to Song Dynasty brocade complex process, weaving and knitting preparation exploitation lags behind, and output is fewer and feweri, has lost gradually the market competitiveness.
Therefore, how to overcome the defect of traditional handicraft, make it to meet modern's aesthetic requirement and industry demand, traditional Song Dynasty brocade is weaved to skill to combine with modern looms technology, the large-scale production of Song Dynasty brocade is achieved, making endangered Song Dynasty brocade skill have the basis of developing, is really the task of top priority.
Summary of the invention
In view of this, the object of the present invention is to provide a kind of novel technique of weaving Song Dynasty brocade, by adopt Novel rapier jacquard weaving machine with real silk and viscose glue people silk through tens road processing technologys utilizations in history classical Traditional Dermatoglyphic Pattern look weave and form Song Dynasty brocade fabric, adopt again the anti-processing of teflon three of the up-to-date utilization of chemical fibre industry, make fine and smooth, the flat very wear-resisting wiping of Song Dynasty brocade weavy grain, waterproof, antifouling, grease proofing, fully practical; Fashionable fashion, color elegance is beautiful, is the perfect adaptation of traditional handicraft and modern trend.
For achieving the above object, technical scheme of the present invention is as follows:
A novel technique of weaving Song Dynasty brocade, comprises the following steps:
The first step: first warp, second warp and parallel raw material fastidious;
Second step: the immersion of first warp and second warp raw material;
The 3rd step: first warp and second warp raw material are dried naturally;
The 4th step: first warp and second warp are carried out to reeling;
The 5th step: first warp is twisted successively, shaped and close, retwist, sizing, skeining, dyes silk and turn over silk;
The 6th step: first warp and second warp are carried out to warping;
The 7th step: to parallel carry out successively raw material fastidious, inhale colour test, dyeing and check;
The 8th step: first warp, second warp and parallel are weaved on rapier jacquard loom.
Preferably, the line of described Song Dynasty brocade technique processed is followed successively by design rough sketch, scanning, digital computer system color separation, artificial artistic conception, lays interlacing point, sets and change pin, parallel colour changing, set up complete information and store flash disk into, weave.
Preferably, the after-processing technology of described Song Dynasty brocade be followed successively by lower machine side material, repair choose, check, clot, send finishing plant, pre-treatment, arrangement, stentering forming, clot, check, clot, Song Sanfang factory, piece, lower groove, add the anti-auxiliary agent of teflon three, stentering forming arrangement, large package clot, the processing of whole latitude, large package clot, check, rouleau dress clot and packing.
Preferably, described parallel can adopt 8 kinds of colors.
Preferably, described pre-treatment is decontamination, decontamination and the processing of deoiling.
Preferably, the anti-auxiliary agent of described teflon three is waterproof, antifouling and anti-oil assistant.
From above-mentioned technical scheme, can find out, a kind of novel technique of weaving Song Dynasty brocade disclosed in this invention, by adopt Novel rapier jacquard weaving machine with real silk and viscose glue people silk through tens road processing technologys utilizations in history classical Traditional Dermatoglyphic Pattern look weave and form Song Dynasty brocade fabric, adopt again the anti-processing of teflon three of the up-to-date utilization of chemical fibre industry, the sensation of make that Song Dynasty brocade weavy grain is fine and smooth, gradual change being glistened as graceful soft the pearl of the meaningful U.S. of flower type, gloss; Flat very wear-resisting wiping, waterproof, antifouling, grease proofing, fully practical; Fashionable fashion, color elegance is beautiful, is the perfect adaptation of traditional handicraft and modern trend, succeeding in developing as non-legacy product Song Dynasty brocade is from collectibles of this technology simultaneously, mounting purposes one jumps and has moved towards the modern industry road of utility model.
The specific embodiment
Below the technical scheme in the embodiment of the present invention is clearly and completely described, obviously, described embodiment is only the present invention's part embodiment, rather than whole embodiment.Embodiment based in the present invention, those of ordinary skills are not making the every other embodiment obtaining under creative work prerequisite, all belong to the scope of protection of the present invention.
Embodiment.
Novel technique of weaving Song Dynasty brocade in this example, be by adopt Novel rapier jacquard weaving machine with real silk and viscose glue people silk through tens road processing technologys utilizations in history classical Traditional Dermatoglyphic Pattern look weave and form Song Dynasty brocade fabric, adopt again the anti-processing of teflon three of the up-to-date utilization of chemical fibre industry, to reach, make fine and smooth, the flat very wear-resisting wiping of Song Dynasty brocade weavy grain, waterproof, antifouling, grease proofing, fully practical, fashionable fashion, the object that color is elegant beautiful.
The invention provides a kind of novel technique of weaving Song Dynasty brocade, carry out further detailed description below, its technological process comprises the following steps:
A1, to first warp, second warp and parallel raw material, carry out fastidious first respectively;
The immersion of A2, first warp and second warp raw material;
A3, then first warp and second warp raw material are dried naturally;
A4, again first warp and second warp are carried out to reeling;
A5, then again first warp is twisted successively, shaped and close, retwist, sizing, skeining, dyes silk and turn over silk;
A6, again first warp and second warp are carried out respectively to warping;
A7, to parallel carry out successively raw material fastidious, inhale colour test, dyeing and check;
A8, finally again first warp, second warp and parallel are weaved on rapier jacquard loom.
Wherein, the sensation that in the weaving process of Song Dynasty brocade, its weavy grain is fine and smooth in order to reach, gradual change is glistened as graceful soft the pearl of the meaningful U.S. of flower type, gloss; And make its fashionable fashion, color elegance is beautiful, and line technique processed is followed successively by design rough sketch, pattern scanning, digital computer system color separation, artificial artistic conception, lays interlacing point, sets and change pin, parallel colour changing, set up that complete information stores flash disk into, finally basis is weaved again.
After the moulding of Song Dynasty brocade face weave, also will carry out the processing of after-processing technology, its after-processing technology is followed successively by lower machine side material, repair and choose, check, clot, send finishing plant to carry out decontamination, decontamination and the processing of deoiling, arrangement, stentering forming, clot, check, clot, Song Sanfang factory, piece, lower groove, add the anti-auxiliary agent of teflon three and carry out waterproof, antifouling and anti-oil processing, stentering forming arrangement, large package clot, the processing of whole latitude, large package clot, check, rouleau dress clot and packing.
When weaving, according to the pattern color needs of Song Dynasty brocade, described parallel can adopt 8 kinds of colors to weave.
With the comparison of domestic picture-weaving in silk bag, because be that Song Dynasty brocade structure outward appearance is simple and tasteful, grain pattern be take full ground, and to fill out flower how much be characteristic, the thin Tired of structure, and pattern is dainty beautiful, and thought-provoking, rich color is colorful, the low-key of showing fully striking but not vulgar; Because fabric tissue is that weft density is moderate through three pieces of twills and three pieces of twills of latitude, product is put down very crease-resistant wear-resisting difficult fluffing, then processes through three anti-(waterproof, grease proofing, antifouling), and common real silk picture-weaving in silk is incomparable especially.
From above-mentioned technical scheme, can find out, a kind of novel technique of weaving Song Dynasty brocade disclosed in this invention, by adopt Novel rapier jacquard weaving machine with real silk and viscose glue people silk through tens road processing technologys utilizations in history classical Traditional Dermatoglyphic Pattern look weave and form Song Dynasty brocade fabric, adopt again the anti-processing of teflon three of the up-to-date utilization of chemical fibre industry, the sensation of make that Song Dynasty brocade weavy grain is fine and smooth, gradual change being glistened as graceful soft the pearl of the meaningful U.S. of flower type, gloss; Flat very wear-resisting wiping, waterproof, antifouling, grease proofing, fully practical; Fashionable fashion, color elegance is beautiful, is the perfect adaptation of traditional handicraft and modern trend, succeeding in developing as non-legacy product Song Dynasty brocade is from collectibles of this technology simultaneously, mounting purposes one jumps and has moved towards the modern industry road of utility model.
More than, for to a kind of novel description of weaving the technique of Song Dynasty brocade of the embodiment of the present invention, by the above-mentioned explanation to the disclosed embodiments, make professional and technical personnel in the field can realize or use the present invention.To the multiple modification of these embodiment, will be apparent for those skilled in the art, General Principle as defined herein can, in the situation that not departing from the spirit or scope of the present invention, realize in other embodiments.Therefore, the present invention will can not be restricted to these embodiment shown in this article, but will meet the widest scope consistent with principle disclosed herein and features of novelty.
Claims (6)
1. a novel technique of weaving Song Dynasty brocade, is characterized in that, comprises the following steps:
The first step: first warp, second warp and parallel raw material fastidious;
Second step: the immersion of first warp and second warp raw material;
The 3rd step: first warp and second warp raw material are dried naturally;
The 4th step: first warp and second warp are carried out to reeling;
The 5th step: first warp is twisted successively, shaped and close, retwist, sizing, skeining, dyes silk and turn over silk;
The 6th step: first warp and second warp are carried out to warping;
The 7th step: to parallel carry out successively raw material fastidious, inhale colour test, dyeing and check;
The 8th step: first warp, second warp and parallel are weaved on rapier jacquard loom.
2. a kind of novel technique of weaving Song Dynasty brocade according to claim 1, it is characterized in that, the line technique processed of described Song Dynasty brocade is followed successively by design rough sketch, scanning, digital computer system color separation, artificial artistic conception, lay interlacing point, set and change pin, parallel colour changing, set up complete information and store flash disk into, weave.
3. a kind of novel technique of weaving Song Dynasty brocade according to claim 1, it is characterized in that, the after-processing technology of described Song Dynasty brocade is followed successively by lower machine side material, repair choose, check, clot, send finishing plant, pre-treatment, arrangement, stentering forming, clot, check, clot, Song Sanfang factory, piece, lower groove, add the anti-auxiliary agent of teflon three, stentering forming arrangement, large package clot, the processing of whole latitude, large package clot, check, rouleau dress clot and packing.
4. a kind of novel technique of weaving Song Dynasty brocade according to claim 1, is characterized in that, described parallel can adopt 8 kinds of colors.
5. a kind of novel technique of weaving Song Dynasty brocade according to claim 3, is characterized in that, described pre-treatment is decontamination, decontamination and the processing of deoiling.
6. a kind of novel technique of weaving Song Dynasty brocade according to claim 3, is characterized in that, the anti-auxiliary agent of described teflon three is waterproof, antifouling and anti-oil assistant.
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| CN201210320460.3A CN103668704A (en) | 2012-09-03 | 2012-09-03 | Novel technology for weaving song brocade |
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| CN201210320460.3A CN103668704A (en) | 2012-09-03 | 2012-09-03 | Novel technology for weaving song brocade |
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Cited By (7)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN104480615A (en) * | 2015-01-14 | 2015-04-01 | 吴江市鼎盛丝绸有限公司 | Song brocade fabric |
| CN105862235A (en) * | 2016-06-17 | 2016-08-17 | 苏州汪永亨丝绸科技文化有限公司 | Single-warp beam structure of Song brocade weaving machine |
| CN106948064A (en) * | 2017-05-05 | 2017-07-14 | 浙江理工大学 | The weaving process of the full mulberry silk jacquard fabric of multicolored warp |
| CN107099909A (en) * | 2017-05-05 | 2017-08-29 | 浙江理工大学 | The processing technology of many mashed up effect jacquard fabrics of texture |
| CN107299443A (en) * | 2016-04-14 | 2017-10-27 | 苏州汪永亨丝绸科技文化有限公司 | A kind of weaving process of new picture-weaving in silk |
| CN108456970A (en) * | 2018-03-16 | 2018-08-28 | 吴江市鼎盛丝绸有限公司 | The preparation method of Song Dynasty brocade fabric |
| CN110409034A (en) * | 2019-06-24 | 2019-11-05 | 英泰时尚服饰（苏州）有限公司 | A kind of production method of medicinal plant dyeing mulberry silk and people's silk intertexture raw silk fabric |
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| CN101736477A (en) * | 2008-11-06 | 2010-06-16 | 杭州高盛文化经营有限公司 | Method for making three-dimensional color samite |
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Cited By (8)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN104480615A (en) * | 2015-01-14 | 2015-04-01 | 吴江市鼎盛丝绸有限公司 | Song brocade fabric |
| CN107299443A (en) * | 2016-04-14 | 2017-10-27 | 苏州汪永亨丝绸科技文化有限公司 | A kind of weaving process of new picture-weaving in silk |
| CN105862235A (en) * | 2016-06-17 | 2016-08-17 | 苏州汪永亨丝绸科技文化有限公司 | Single-warp beam structure of Song brocade weaving machine |
| CN106948064A (en) * | 2017-05-05 | 2017-07-14 | 浙江理工大学 | The weaving process of the full mulberry silk jacquard fabric of multicolored warp |
| CN107099909A (en) * | 2017-05-05 | 2017-08-29 | 浙江理工大学 | The processing technology of many mashed up effect jacquard fabrics of texture |
| CN108456970A (en) * | 2018-03-16 | 2018-08-28 | 吴江市鼎盛丝绸有限公司 | The preparation method of Song Dynasty brocade fabric |
| CN108456970B (en) * | 2018-03-16 | 2020-11-13 | 吴江市鼎盛丝绸有限公司 | Preparation method of Song brocade fabric |
| CN110409034A (en) * | 2019-06-24 | 2019-11-05 | 英泰时尚服饰（苏州）有限公司 | A kind of production method of medicinal plant dyeing mulberry silk and people's silk intertexture raw silk fabric |
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Application publication date: 20140326 |