CN103442690A - Solid cosmetic - Google Patents

Solid cosmetic Download PDF

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Publication number
CN103442690A
CN103442690A CN2012800144488A CN201280014448A CN103442690A CN 103442690 A CN103442690 A CN 103442690A CN 2012800144488 A CN2012800144488 A CN 2012800144488A CN 201280014448 A CN201280014448 A CN 201280014448A CN 103442690 A CN103442690 A CN 103442690A
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cosmetics
quality
acid
wetting agent
ester
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园山悠治
茅原真理子
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Shiseido Co Ltd
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Shiseido Co Ltd
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34Alcohols
    • A61K8/345Alcohols containing more than one hydroxy group
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/0216Solid or semisolid forms
    • A61K8/022Powders; Compacted Powders
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34Alcohols
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/37Esters of carboxylic acids
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/39Derivatives containing from 2 to 10 oxyalkylene groups
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73Polysaccharides
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73Polysaccharides
    • A61K8/735Mucopolysaccharides, e.g. hyaluronic acid; Derivatives thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89Polysiloxanes
    • A61K8/891Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/02Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/12Face or body powders for grooming, adorning or absorbing
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/08Anti-ageing preparations

Abstract

[Problem] To provide a solid makeup cosmetic that has a high moisturizing effect and excellent stability in humidified environments, allowing a user to feel the moisturizing effect during use. [Solution] In a solid makeup cosmetic, 33 mass% or more of an oil and 3 to 15 mass% of a moisturizer are blended relative to the total amount of cosmetic.

Description

The solid cosmetics
Technical field
The present invention relates to the solid cosmetics.Say in further detail, relate to the caking that there is high moistening effect and cause due to moisture absorption less, stability, usability and use the excellent solid cosmetics of sense.
Background technology
Existing solid powdery cosmetic, municipalization color make-up cosmetics or baby talcum powder etc. have been gone up, described color make-up toiletry bag is containing the coloring pigment of the body pigment of Pulvis Talci, Muscovitum, sericite etc., ferrum oxide etc., oil content, surfactant, spice, antioxidant, antiseptic etc., as white lead, foundation cream, kermes, eye shadow etc.
But these existing solid powdery cosmetics do not have moisture retention, there is the low such shortcoming of nursing efficacy for skin.In recent years, due to the impact of heating and cooling equipment etc., the women to the xerosis cutis worry increases, in addition from anti-ageing viewpoint of waiting for a long time for preventing that xerodermatic degree of attentiveness from improving, be not only basic cosmetics, also require moisture retention or moisturizing sense for color make-up cosmetics such as foundation creams.
Therefore, carried out coordinating the research of various wetting agents in the solid powdery cosmetic of foundation cream etc., but while in order to give the sufficient moistening effect of powdery cosmetic, with higher proportion, coordinating the wetting agent composition, while particularly preserving for a long time under adding wet environment, due to moisture absorption, to cause formed products softening, and intensity is low, becomes and obviously die down and easily break for the impact fallen etc., produce in addition water droplet etc. on formed products surface, as the quality badness of goods, become problem.Such problem, the wetting agent that results from had high hygroscopicity originally.
Patent documentation 1~3 has been put down in writing the powdery cosmetic that is combined with wetting agent.Patent documentation 1, carry out hydrophobization by the powder more than the special ratios by total amount of powder and stably coordinate wetting agent.In patent documentation 2, by coordinating trehalose, give skin moisturizing sense or aqueous sense.In patent documentation 3, by the effect that coordinates specific Polyethylene Glycol, polyoxyethylene methyl glucoside or polyoxypropylene methyl glucoside to give skin moisturizing.But these powdery cosmetics all can not solve the problem as described above while preserving for a long time under adding wet environment.
And then, in patent documentation 4, put down in writing, burn till clay mineral and wetting agent by coordinate specified quantitative in powdery cosmetic, even also can maintain the cosmetics of excellent quality when keeping moistening effect during long-time the preservation under adding wet environment.But the powdery cosmetic of record, burn till clay mineral owing to containing in a large number, thereby become the such modified product of finishing powder (Powder-finish) in patent documentation 4, exist and be difficult to the such problem of sense of reality moistening effect.
Knownly the color make-up cosmetics that water-in-oil emulsion foundation cream of containing wetting agent etc. has the liquid type of moisture retention have also been developed, but from the easness equal angles of refining the make-up, in medium-sized vessel, be configured as solid solid color make-up cosmetics need height, the solid color make-up cosmetics of strong expectation exploitation moisture retention, storage stability and moisturizing sense of reality excellence still.
The background technology document
Patent documentation 1: Unexamined Patent 6-219925 communique
Patent documentation 2: Unexamined Patent 6-40845 communique
Patent documentation 3: Unexamined Patent 10-175823 communique
Patent documentation 4: JP 2008-1686 communique
Summary of the invention
The problem that invention will solve
The present invention is in view of situation described above, and purpose is to provide a kind of solid color make-up cosmetics, its in the sufficient moistening effect of performance, to add stability under wet environment also excellent, but and then in use sense of reality to moistening effect.
Solve the method for problem
The inventor conducts in-depth research in order to solve above-mentioned problem, found that by the solid cosmetics, oil content is more than 33 quality %, and coordinate the above wetting agent of 3 quality %, can be when bringing sufficient moistening effect, adding the few and excellent in stability of moisture absorption under wet environment, but and then can bring in use moistening use thoughts and feelings sense of reality to moistening effect, thereby completed the present invention.
Solid color make-up cosmetics of the present invention, is characterized in that, with respect to the cosmetics total amount, contains the above oil content of 33 quality % and the wetting agent of 3~15 quality %.By with high-load, coordinating oil content, even coordinate the above wetting agent of 3 quality % also can suppress moisture absorption, but and then bring in use moist feeling sense of reality to moistening effect.
As wetting agent, do not limit, can enumerate glycerol, polyoxyethylene polyoxypropylene dimethyl ether, 1,3-butanediol, Polyethylene Glycol, two glycerol, dipropylene glycol, xylitol, trehalose, erythritol, hyaluronic acid and carbamide etc., can or combine two or more the use with a kind of in them.Particularly, from the viewpoint of moistening effect and use sense etc., as wetting agent, preferably contain glycerol.
Solid cosmetics of the present invention, preferably contain the above siloxane-based oil content of 10 quality %.By coordinating siloxane-based oil content, even coordinate the oil content of high-load, also can from formed products, take out very easily, there is no in addition greasy or sticky feeling, the usability excellence yet.
In addition, preferred solid cosmetics of the present invention contain the above powder of 50 quality %.The occasion hardness that content of powder is less than 50 quality % becomes too low, sometimes can not in medium-sized vessel, be shaped as the solid cosmetics.
As solid color make-up cosmetics of the present invention, for example can enumerate foundation cream.
The invention effect
Solid cosmetics of the present invention, although contain the above wetting agent of 3 quality %, but hygroscopicity is low, when bringing high moistening effect, even add wet environment low-grades matter deteriorated also less and the keeping excellent in stability, and then can be used as can the sense of reality moistening effect moistening use thoughts and feelings.
The accompanying drawing explanation
Fig. 1 means hygroscopic the affect figure of oil content for the solid cosmetics.
Fig. 2 means the figure of wetting agent content for the impact of the moistening effect of solid cosmetics.
The specific embodiment
Solid color make-up cosmetics of the present invention, contain the oil content more than 33 quality % with respect to the cosmetics total amount.More preferably, oil content is more than 35 quality %, more preferably more than 37 quality %.By coordinating the above oil content of 33 quality %, even coordinate wetting agent also can suppress moisture absorption with the amount more than 3%, but sense of reality moistening effect while using in addition.The upper limit of oil content, be the amount of bringing solid cosmetics plastic hardness in medium-sized vessel, do not limit, but usually be less than 50 quality %.For example, oil content is 33 quality %~47 quality % with respect to the cosmetics total amount, more preferably 33 quality %~45 quality %, more preferably 35 quality %~40 quality %.While coordinating the above oil content of 50 quality %, it is too low that hardness becomes, and sometimes as the solid cosmetics, can not in medium-sized vessel, be shaped.
Solid cosmetics of the present invention, though do not limit, still, from the viewpoint of usability and use sense etc., preferably contain siloxane-based oil content.The use level of siloxane-based oil content, be preferably more than 10 quality % with respect to the cosmetics total amount, more preferably more than 20 quality %, more preferably more than 30 quality %.When the content of siloxane-based oil is less than 10 quality %, have from the tendency of the taking-up variation of formed products, sometimes use in addition sense to become greasy.
As siloxane-based oil content used in the present invention, only otherwise damage effect of the present invention, do not limit, for example can enumerate the chain polysiloxanes of dimethyl polysiloxane, methyl phenyl silicone, diphenyl polysiloxanes, polymethyl hydrogen siloxane etc.; The cyclic polysiloxanes of octamethylcy-clotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentaandoxane, ten diformazan basic ring six siloxanes, tetramethyl tetrahydrochysene cyclotetrasiloxane etc.; The various modified polyorganosiloxanes of amino modified polysiloxane, Siloxane-Oxyalkylene Copolymers, alkyl-modified polysiloxanes, fluorine modified polyorganosiloxane etc.; The silicone resin of formation stereoscopic graticule ocular structure, silicone rubber etc.Particularly use the occasion of chain polysiloxanes or Siloxane-Oxyalkylene Copolymers etc., take out, usability is also excellent in addition, the low viscous chain polysiloxanes that wherein preferred viscosities is 1~50mPas left and right.
As other the oil content used in solid cosmetics of the present invention, only otherwise damage effect of the present invention, do not limit, for example can enumerate American Avocado Tree oil, Camellia oil, turtle oil, macadimia nut oil, Semen Maydis oil, mink oil, olive oil, Oleum Brassicae campestris, egg oil, Oleum sesami, Semen Persicae/almond oil, Semen Tritici aestivi germ oil, the Flos Camelliae Japonicae caul-fat, Oleum Ricini, oleum lini, safflower oil, Oleum Gossypii semen, perilla oil, soybean oil, Oleum Arachidis hypogaeae semen, Oleum Camelliae, Chinese torreya oil, Testa oryzae oil, Oleum Verniciae fordii, Japanese tung oil, Jojoba oil, germ oil, triglycerin, tricaprylin, the liquid fat of three different tripalmitins etc., cocoa butter, Oleum Cocois, house oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, Petiolus Trachycarpi oil, Adeps Bovis seu Bubali, Adeps Caprae seu ovis, hardened tallow, palm kernel oil, Adeps Sus domestica, neatsfoot stock, the haze tallow kernel oil, hydrogenated oil and fat, neat's foot oil, haze tallow, the solid grease of hydrogenated castor wet goods, Cera Flava, candelilla wax, cotton wax, Brazil wax, bayberry wax, Cera Chinensis, spermaceti, montan wax, rice bran wax, lanoline, kapok wax, the acetic acid lanoline, aqueous lanoline, sugarcane wax, the lanolin fatty acid isopropyl ester, lauric acid hexyl ester, the reduction lanoline, jojoba wax, the hard lanoline, shellac wax, POE lanoline alcohol ether, POE lanolin alcohol acetas, the POE cholesterol ethers, the lanolin fatty acid Polyethylene Glycol, the wax class of POE hydrogenated lanolin alcohol ether etc., Liquid Paraffin, ceresine, Squalene, pristane, paraffin, ceresin(e), Squalene, vaseline, the hydrocarbon of microwax etc., isopropyl myristate, sad cetyl ester, myristic acid octyldodecanol ester, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, lauric acid hexyl ester, myristyl myristate, decyl oleate, the sad hexyl of dimethyl ester in the last of the ten Heavenly stems, the lactic acid cetyl ester, Tetradecyl lactate, the acetic acid lanoline, stearic acid isocetyl ester, isostearic acid isocetyl ester, 12-hydroxy stearic acid cholesterol ester, two-2 ethyl hexanoic acid glycol ester, the dipentaerythritol fatty acid ester, single isostearic acid N-alkyl diol ester, two capric acid DOPCP, malic acid two isooctadecanol esters, two-2-heptyl hendecanoic acid glyceride, three-2 ethyl hexanoic acid trimethylolpropane, three isostearic acid trimethylolpropanes, four-2 ethyl hexanoic acid pentaerythritol ester, three-2 ethyl hexanoic acid glyceride, three isostearic acid trimethylolpropanes, the 2 ethyl hexanoic acid cetyl ester, Palmic acid 2-ethyl hexyl ester, myristin, three-2-heptyl hendecanoic acid glyceride, the Castor Oil Fatty Acid methyl ester, oleic acid oleic alcohol ester, cetostearyl alcohol, aceto-glyceride, Palmic acid 2-heptyl undecyl ester, diisobutyl adipate, N-dodecyl-Pidolidone-2-octyl group dodecyl ester, adipic acid two-2-heptyl undecyl ester, ethyl laurate, Diisooctyl Sebacate, myristic acid 2-hexyl ester in the last of the ten Heavenly stems, Palmic acid 2-hexyl ester in the last of the ten Heavenly stems, adipic acid 2-hexyl ester in the last of the ten Heavenly stems, Dermol DIPS, succinic acid 2-Octyl Nitrite, ethyl acetate, butyl acetate, amyl acetate, the synthetic ester oil of triethyl citrate etc. etc.
Solid cosmetics of the present invention, the wetting agent that contains 3~15 quality % with respect to the cosmetics total amount.More preferably the use level of wetting agent is 3~10 quality %, further preferred 5~10 quality %.Can not bring sufficient moistening effect when the use level of wetting agent is less than 3 quality %, while surpassing 15 quality % in addition, hygroscopicity uprises and the keeping bad stability, and the taking-up situation while smearing formed products in addition has the tendency of variation.
In the present invention, so-called wetting agent, refer to precision weighing wetting agent composition 5g in the serpentine pipe of 20mL, the material that is 0.2%~30% at 37 ℃, mass change during relative humidity 98% standing diel.By using such wetting agent composition, when can bring again high moistening effect, make Powdered or possess without the excellent usability be clamminess and use the solid color make-up cosmetics of feeling.
In the present invention as the wetting agent that meets above-mentioned condition preferably used, do not limit, can enumerate glycerol, polyoxyethylene polyoxypropylene dimethyl ether, 1,3-butanediol, Polyethylene Glycol, two glycerol, dipropylene glycol, xylitol, trehalose, erythritol, hyaluronic acid and carbamide etc., can from them, select a kind of or combine two or more uses.Particularly, the viewpoint from high moistening effect and use sense etc., preferably contain glycerol as wetting agent.
The hygroscopicity of the illustrative wetting agent composition preferably used in the present invention who measures by said method shown in following table 1.By said method, every kind of each material is measured 2 times, illustrated due to the quality (g) of moisture absorption increase and the meansigma methods (%) of percent mass penalty (%) and percent mass penalty.
Table 1
Solid cosmetics of the present invention, except above-mentioned oil content and wetting agent, contain powder.The use level of powder, as long as can reach effect of the present invention, do not limit, and usually, with respect to the cosmetics total amount, is more than 50 quality %, more preferably more than 55 quality %.The use level of powder is less than the occasion of 50 quality %, and it is too low that hardness becomes, and as the solid cosmetics, in medium-sized vessel, is difficult to be shaped, and useful brush or sponge etc. are difficult to take out the tendency of formed products in addition.The upper limit of the use level of powder is the residual volume of the use level of the above-mentioned oil content of deduction and wetting agent.
As the powder used in the present invention, do not limit, for example, Pulvis Talci, sericite, mica powder, Kaolin, magnesium carbonate, calcium carbonate, aluminium silicate, barium silicate, calcium silicates, magnesium silicate, strontium silicate, wolframic acid slaine, magnesium, silicon dioxide, zeolite, barium sulfate, burn till the body pigment of calcium sulfate, calcium phosphate, fluor-apatite, hydroxyapatite, metallic soap, boron nitride, nylon powder, polyethylene powders, cellulose powder, silicone powder, zinc oxide etc.; Carbon black, titanium oxide, zinc oxide, ultramarine, Prussian blue, chromium oxide, organic coal tar are the coloring agent in pigment, color lake etc.; The composite pigment of mica titanium, iron oxide encapsulated mica etc.; Comprise and these powder are carried out to the material of hydrophobization processing by silicone compounds, fluorine modified siloxane compound, fluorine compounds, higher fatty acids, higher alcohol, fatty acid ester, metallic soap, aminoacid, quaternary ammonium salt, alkyl phosphate etc.
As powder being carried out to the method for hydrophobization processing, so long as can by the method for above-mentioned powder hydrophobization any method can, for example, can use the common surface treatment methods such as vapor phase method, liquid phase method, autoclave method, mechanochemical reaction.
For example, the hydrophobization inorganic agent is made an addition to the occasion of being processed in material powder, can in suitable solvent (dichloromethane, chloroform, hexane, ethanol, dimethylbenzene, volatile siloxane etc.), dilute and add, or also can directly add.In the mix and blend of powder and inorganic agent, also can use ball mill, faujasite ball mill (ホ ジ ヤ ー サ イ ト ボ ー Le ミ Le), vibrator, grater, tank shape material grinder, rod mill, pan mill, homogenizer, high speed dispersor, Henschel mixer, nauta mixer etc.In addition, also can use following methods, utilize the activity of powder surface, at the low temperature below 100 ℃, cyclic organic siloxane is carried out on powder surface to the method (JP 1-54380 communique) of polymerization by gas-phase reaction, or after said method in the method (JP 1-54381 communique) of the side group of the Si-H of surperficial siloxane polymer part addition allylin etc. etc.
Process powder body as hydrophobization, for example can enumerate the fatty acid dextrin and process powder, trimethylsiloxy silicic acid is processed powder, fluorine modification trimethylsiloxy silicic acid is processed powder, aminomethyl phenyl siloxy silicic acid is processed powder, fluorine modified methyl phenyl siloxy silicic acid is processed powder, dimethyl polysiloxane, the diphenyl polysiloxanes, the low viscosity of methyl phenyl silicone etc.~high viscosity oily polysiloxanes is processed powder, gluey polysiloxanes is processed powder, methylhydrogenpolysi,oxane is processed powder, fluorine modified methyl hydrogen polysiloxanes is processed powder, methyl trichlorosilane, methyl trialkoxysilane, hexamethyldisilane, dimethyldichlorosilane, the dimethyl dialkoxy silicane, trim,ethylchlorosilane, the Organosilyl compound of trimethyl alkoxy silane etc. or the processing powder of their fluorine substituent, ethyl trichlorosilane, the ethyl trialkoxy silane, propyltrichlorosilan, propyl trialkoxy silane, hexyl trichlorosilane, the hexyl trialkoxy silane, the chain alkyl trichlorosilane, the organically-modified silane of chain alkyl triethoxysilane etc. or their fluorine substituent are processed powder, amino modified polysiloxane is processed powder, the fluorine modified polyorganosiloxane is processed powder, fluorinated alkyl phosphoric acid is processed powder, the fluorinated alkyl phosphate ester is processed powder etc.
Solid type powdery cosmetic of the present invention, and also can manufacture with " the dry pressing method " of not using solvent that powder composition and oiliness composition are carried out to hybrid shaping, below described in detail, more preferably with " wet forming method ", manufacture.With the occasion of using existing dry pressing method, compare, by manufacturing with the wet forming method, the taking-up while with sponge etc., embrocating formed products is very good.
For example, at first, with after the mixed-powder compositions such as Henschel mixer, add the oiliness composition that contains wetting agent and mix and modulate the cosmetics base equably.Then this cosmetics base and solvent are mixed and made into to slurry.This slurry is filled in container.During filling, slurry is to the poor occasion of expansion of container etc., and the words that the degree of not overflowing with implant gives to vibrate gently can be filled equably.After being filled in container etc., except making it, desolventizing solidifies.Removing by well-established law of solvent, such as natural drying, heat drying, hot air drying, vacuum attraction etc. carried out.Above-mentioned manufacture method is so-called wet forming method, and it is recorded in examined patent publication 57-60004 communique, examined patent publication 61-54766 communique etc. in detail.
The amount of solvent, according to the composition of powder composition and the use level of oiliness composition etc. and different, the amount of preferred solvent is the viscosity of slurry to be reached from slurry deflate and fill the quantity of solvent that is easy to viscosity to container etc., usually is preferably 0.5~1.5 times (weight) of cosmetics base.When quantity of solvent becomes too much, the dry needs for a long time simultaneously, produce be full of cracks after drying, produce the content minimizing, resistance to impact is also low in addition.
As the solvent used in the present invention, the alcohols of water or methanol, ethanol, isopropyl alcohol etc., benzene, toluene, THF, paraffin, siloxanes etc., according to the powder composition used and the characteristic of oiliness composition, can or mix two or more to use with a kind.Ethanol particularly preferably wherein.
In addition, the occasion of being manufactured by the wet forming method, together with solvent, oiliness becomes to grade and is removed sometimes, and the use level while therefore manufacturing is with respect to the necessary increment of the purpose amount as end article.The degree of increment, due to kind and the amount of gradation composition and solvent, the difference such as create conditions, therefore can suitably determine according to above-mentioned condition the preferred increment to 120 of a lot of occasions~150 quality %, the occasion high with the solvent phase dissolubility, be necessary increment 200 quality % left and right sometimes.
In cosmetics of the present invention except above-mentioned essential component; as required under the condition of the effect of not damaging invention, the composition that suitably medicament of matching surface activating agent, viscosifier, vitamins etc., spice, antioxidant, Antisepticize and mildew preventive etc. are used in cosmetics usually.
As the lipophile non-ionic surface active agent, for example can enumerate, anhydrosorbitol list isostearate, sorbitan monolaurate, sorbitan-monopalmityl ester, the anhydrosorbitol monostearate, sorbitan sesquioleate, the anhydrosorbitol trioleate, five 2 ethyl hexanoic acid two glycerol sorbitan esters, the sorbitan fatty ester class of four-2 ethyl hexanoic acid, two glycerol sorbitan esters etc., single cottonseed oil fatty acid glyceride, single erucic acid glyceride, the sesquialter olein, glyceryl monostearate, α, α '-oleic acid pyroglutamic acid glyceride, the glycerol polyglycerol fatty acid class of glyceryl monostearate malic acid etc., the methyl glycol fatty acid ester class of propylene glycolmonostearate etc., the castor oil hydrogenated derivant, glycerol alkyl ether etc.
As hydrophilic non-ionic surfactant, for example can enumerate the POE dehydrating sorbitol monooleate, POE-anhydrosorbitol monostearate, the POE-dehydrating sorbitol monooleate, the POE sorbitan fatty ester class of POE-anhydrosorbitol four oleates etc., POE-is sorbityl monododecanoate, the POE-sorbitol monooleate, POE-Sorbitol five oleates, the POE Sorbitol fatty acid ester of POE-Sorbitol monostearate etc., the POE-glyceryl monostearate, POE-glycerol list isostearate, the POE glycerine fatty acid esters of POE-glycerol three isostearates etc., polysorbate 80, the POE distearate, the mono-dioleate of POE, the POE fatty acid ester of diglycol stearate etc., the POE lauryl ether, POE oil ether, BRIJ 76, POE mountain Yu ether, POE2-octyl group lauryl ether, the POE alkyl ether of POE cholestane alcohol ether etc., the POE octyl phenyl ether, the POE nonylplenyl ether, the POE alkyl phenyl ethers of POE dinonyl phenyl ether etc., the pluronic type class of pluronic etc., the POEPOP cetyl, POEPOP2-ether in four last of the ten Heavenly stems of the last of the ten Heavenly stems, the POEPOP single-butyl ether, the POEPOP hydrogenated lanolin, the POEPOP alkyl ether of POEPOP glycerin ether etc., four POE tetra-POP ethylenediamine condensation substance classes of テ ト ロ ニ ッ Network (Tetronic) etc., the POE Oleum Ricini, the POE castor oil hydrogenated, POE castor oil hydrogenated list isostearate, POE castor oil hydrogenated three isostearates, POE castor oil hydrogenated list pyroglutamic acid list isostearic acid diester, the POE Oleum Ricini castor oil hydrogenated derivant of POE castor oil hydrogenated maleic acid etc., the POE Cera Flava lanolin derivative of POE Sorbitol Cera Flava etc., cocoanut fatty acid diethanolamide, lauric monoethanolamide, the alkanolamide of fatty acid isopropanol amide etc., the POE methyl glycol fatty acid ester, the POE alkylamine, the POE fatty acid amide, sucrose fatty acid ester, POE nonyl phenyl formaldehyde condensation products, alkyl ethoxy dimethyl oxidation amine, three oil base phosphoric acid etc.
Can enumerate the vitamin E class etc. of the vitamin D class, Delta-Tocopherol, vitamin e acetate etc. of the vitamin c class, cholecalciferol, ergocalciferol etc. of the vitamin(e) B group, L-AA, L-AA sulfate, L-AA phosphate etc. of the retinoid, pyridoxine hydrochloride etc. of vitamin A palmitate etc. as vitamins.
As UV absorbent, for example can enumerate, para-amino benzoic acid (following province is PABA slightly), PABA monoglyceride, N, N-dipropoxy PABA ethyl ester, N, N-diethoxy PABA ethyl ester, N, N-dimethyl PABA ethyl ester, N, N-dimethyl PABA butyl ester, N, the benzoic acid of N-dimethyl PABA methyl ester etc. is UV absorbent, the ortho-aminobenzoic acid of N-acetyl group ortho-aminobenzoic acid 3-methyl cyclohexanol ester etc. is UV absorbent, amyl salicylate, salicylic acid menthol ester, salicylic acid 3-methyl cyclohexanol ester, ethylhexyl salicylate, phenyl salicytate, benzyl salicylate, to the salicylic acid of isopropyl alcohol phenyl salicylic acid esters etc., be UV absorbent, the cinnamic acid monooctyl ester, Ethyl 4-isopropylcinnamate., methyl-2,5-diisopropyl cinnamate, ethyl-2,4-diisopropyl cinnamate, methyl-2,4-diisopropyl cinnamate, propyl group-p-methoxycinnamic acid ester, isopropyl-p-methoxycinnamic acid ester, isopentyl-p-methoxycinnamic acid ester, octyl group-p-methoxycinnamic acid ester (Parsol MCX), 2-ethoxyethyl group-p-methoxycinnamic acid ester, cyclohexyl-p-methoxycinnamic acid ester, ethyl-alpha-cyano-beta-phenyl cinnamate, 2-ethylhexyl-alpha-cyano-beta-phenyl cinnamate, the cinnamic acid of glyceryl list-2-ethyl hexyl acyl group-di-p-methoxy cinnamate etc. is UV absorbent, 3-(4'-methyl benzal)-d, l-Camphora, 3-benzal-d, 1-Camphora, urocanic acid, the urocanic acid ethyl ester, 2-phenyl-5-Jia base benzoxazole, 2,2'-hydroxy-5-methyl base phenyl benzotriazole, 2-(2'-hydroxyl-5'-t-octyl phenyl) benzotriazole, 2-(2'-hydroxyl-5'-aminomethyl phenyl benzotriazole, the dibenzyl hydrazine, the United Nations General Assembly's Fructus Foeniculi formoxyl methane (dianisoyl methane), 4-methoxyl group-4'-tert-butyl group dibenzoyl methane, 5-(the inferior norborny (norbornylidene) of 3,3-dimethyl-2-)-3-penta-2-ketone etc.
As antiseptic; for example can enumerate; can enumerate methyl parahydroxybenzoate, ethylparaben, propyl p-hydroxybenzoate, butyl p-hydroxybenzoate, phenyl phenol, N-coco-nut oil fatty acid acyl group L-arginine ethyl ester DL-pyrrolidone carboxylic acid salt, sodium dehydroacetate, Sensiva SC50, (silver/zinc/ammonium) zeolite etc.
Solid color make-up cosmetics of the present invention, be the solid powdery cosmetic of soft, preferably water-free in fact non-water system powdery cosmetic.For example,, applicable to the various forms of cosmetics of a large amount of cooperation powder of powdery foundation cream, muffin, eye shadow, sweet powder, kermes etc.
Below, enumerate embodiment and specifically describe the present invention, but the present invention is not limited to following embodiment.In addition, in following embodiment, use glycerol as wetting agent, but other wetting agent also can be reached same effect.Use level unless stated otherwise, is that the quality % with the system with respect to this composition was coordinated means.
the research of the use level of oil content
the making of solid cosmetics
Make the solid cosmetics with the different oil content use levels shown in following table 2 by the wet forming method according to above-mentioned method.At first, with mixed-powder compositions such as Henschel mixers, then add the oiliness composition that contains wetting agent and mix and make the cosmetics base equably.Then this cosmetics base and the ethanol as solvent are mixed and made into to slurry.After being filled in container by this slurry, except making it, desolventizing solidifies.Removing by 55 ℃ of drying machines of solvent undertaken.
the evaluation of the stability under humidified condition
After standing 2 weeks, estimate hygroscopicity and appearance stability under 37 ℃, the environment of relative humidity 98%.Hygroscopicity is before determination test starts, after 1 week and the quality of the sample after 2 weeks, calculates the percent mass penalty (%) with respect to initial value (quality before on-test).
Appearance stability, according to the visual outward appearance of estimating after 2 weeks for following evaluation criterion:
Zero: no problem
*: the problem that " generation water droplet " or " protuberance ", " generation crack " etc. occur.
the evaluation of moisturizing sense of reality
The evaluation of moisturizing sense of reality is by 10 actual each samples that use of special trier, judges the number of experiencing moistening effect according to following standard.
◎: more than 6
Zero: 4~5
△: 2~3
*: 0~1
Show the result in following table 2 and Fig. 1.
Table 2
Figure BDA0000385261090000121
※ 1siloxanes KF6017(SHIN-ETSU HANTOTAI chemistry system)
Oil content is respectively the embodiment 1 and 2 of 33 quality % and 37 quality %, even coordinate the glycerol of 5 quality %, hygroscopicity is also lower, even long preservation does not produce the problem of water droplet or caking etc. and appearance stability is also excellent yet under humidified condition.On the other hand, in the comparative example 1 and 2 that oil content is 7 quality % and 17 quality %, hygroscopicity is high, and under humidified condition, keeping produces water droplet or caking in 2 weeks.
And then the use level of wetting agent is all 5 quality % in arbitrary sample, but sense of reality moistening effect while using in many embodiment 1 and 2 at oil content, with respect to this, abundant sense of reality moistening effect in the few comparative example 1 and 2 of oil content.
the research of the use level of wetting agent
From the above-mentioned solid cosmetics of similarly by the wet forming method, making the use level with the different wetting agent shown in following table 3.
Table 3
Figure BDA0000385261090000131
※ 1siloxanes KF6017(SHIN-ETSU HANTOTAI chemistry system)
the evaluation of moistening effect
(コ Le ネ オ メ ー タ: Corneometer CM825) (Courage+Khazaka company) measures moisture of skin quantitative determination machine for water quantities in horny layer (electrical capacity (a.u.)).
By the soap testee's that washs 10 wrist of solid, in constant temperature high humility chamber after standing 15 minutes, measure the water quantities (measuring 1) in the horny layer of wrist inboard.Then, will not have the astringent of moistening effect to coat the interior rear flank of wrist, shift position is coated with each sample and places 4 hours.Remove sample 8 times with toilet paper, 15 minutes standing after, measure the water quantities (measuring 2) in the horny layer of the position be coated with respectively sample.In contrast, in the place that is not coated with sample, also similarly measure.Using measuring 2 values that deduct mensuration 1, as cuticular moisture recruitment (a.u.), calculate.Check to implement the significant difference check by T, using p<0.05 as thering is significant difference.
Show the result in Fig. 2.
Fig. 2 A mean for contrast (uncoated), comparative example 3 and embodiment 4 with identical testee (n=10) the cuticular moisture recruitment (a.u.) while simultaneously being tested.The comparative example 3 that does not contain wetting agent is same degree with contrasting, and there is no significant difference (N.S.).The embodiment 4 of the wetting agent that contains 5 quality %, compare with the comparative example 3 that does not contain wetting agent, cuticular water quantities be significantly increased (p<0.05).
Fig. 2 B mean for wetting agent content be respectively the comparative example 3,4 of 0,1,3 and 10 quality % and embodiment 3 and 5 identical testee (n=10) the cuticular moisture recruitment (a.u.) while simultaneously being tested.The embodiment 3 that wetting agent content is 3 quality % compares with the comparative example 3 that does not contain wetting agent, and cuticular water quantities significantly improves (p<0.05).
According to not containing wetting agent with comparative example 3(in above-mentioned cuticular moisture recruitment) significant difference that compares, by following standard determination moistening effect, be shown in table 3:
◎: p<0.01 has significant difference
Zero: p<0.05 has significant difference
*: p >=0.05 does not have significant difference.
And then, with above-mentioned, similarly for the appearance stability under humidified condition and use sense of reality, estimated, show the result in table 3.
As shown in Table 3, the solid cosmetics of the embodiment 3~5 that contains the above wetting agent of the above oil content of 33 quality % and 3 quality % are excellence aspect moistening effect, storage stability and moisturizing sense of reality all.
Below, the prescription example of solid color make-up cosmetics of the present invention is shown as embodiment.Use level all means with the quality % with respect to the cosmetics total amount, with above-mentioned, similarly by the wet forming method, makes.
embodiment 6: the powdery foundation cream
Figure BDA0000385261090000151
embodiment 7: the powdery foundation cream
Figure BDA0000385261090000161
embodiment 8: the powdery foundation cream
Figure BDA0000385261090000162
Figure BDA0000385261090000171
The solid color make-up cosmetics of above-described embodiment are excellence aspect moistening effect, storage stability and moisturizing sense of reality all.

Claims (6)

1. solid color make-up cosmetics, is characterized in that, with respect to the cosmetics total amount, contains the above oil content of 33 quality % and the wetting agent of 3~15 quality %.
2. solid color make-up cosmetics according to claim 1, it is characterized in that, described wetting agent is to be selected from one or more in glycerol, polyoxyethylene polyoxypropylene dimethyl ether, 1,3 butylene glycol, Polyethylene Glycol, two glycerol, dipropylene glycol, xylitol, trehalose, erythritol, hyaluronic acid and carbamide.
3. solid color make-up cosmetics according to claim 1 and 2, is characterized in that, described wetting agent contains glycerol.
4. according to the described solid color make-up of any one of claim 1~3 cosmetics, it is characterized in that, with respect to the cosmetics total amount, contain the siloxane-based oil content more than 10 quality %.
5. according to the described solid color make-up of any one of claim 1~4 cosmetics, it is characterized in that, with respect to the cosmetics total amount, contain the powder more than 50 quality %.
6. according to the described solid color make-up of any one of claim 1~5 cosmetics, it is foundation cream.
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