CN103114364A - Weaving method of warps in composite filament chiffon fabrics - Google Patents
Weaving method of warps in composite filament chiffon fabrics Download PDFInfo
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- CN103114364A CN103114364A CN2013100788602A CN201310078860A CN103114364A CN 103114364 A CN103114364 A CN 103114364A CN 2013100788602 A CN2013100788602 A CN 2013100788602A CN 201310078860 A CN201310078860 A CN 201310078860A CN 103114364 A CN103114364 A CN 103114364A
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Abstract
The invention discloses a weaving method of warps in composite filament chiffon fabrics. The weaving method of the warps in the composite filament chiffon fabrics comprises the following steps: inspecting, spooling, two-for-one twisting, approving types, rewinding, threading warps, warping and weaving. The specifications of the warps are of 33.3 dtex (full drawn yarn (FDY) + pre oriented yarn (POY)) / (12+ 18) f. the warps are twisted in the S direction and the Z direction for 25 / m, and the density of the warps to be machined is of 38 / 10cm. Preferably, in the weaving steps, warp-wise reduction ratios of the fabrics are controlled to be 15 %-18 %, and tension of the warps is 1.3-2.3KN. The weaving method of the warps in the composite filament chiffon fabrics has the advantages that because weaving procedures of the warps are reasonably controlled, the composite filament chiffon fabrics made through the method are obvious in structural features of lightness, thinness and fluttering, and have smooth and soft feelings and draping feelings like silk.
Description
Technical field
The present invention relates to a kind of fabric knitting method in textile industry, particularly a kind of weaving method of the organizine for compound silk chiffon fabric.
Background technology
The chiffon formal name used at school is georgette, and quality is frivolous transparent, the gentle refreshing high resilience of feel, and outward appearance is light elegant, dangles elegant, is a kind of dress shell fabric that is popular.(15+15) D(FDY+POY wherein) compound silk chiffon, due to the raw material employing is super fine denier compound silk fiber, make the finished product fabric except possessing the good styles such as original chiffon fabric is frivolous, elegant, soft, transparent, also high resilience, shown a natural stype that grows flax, not only dress is nice and cool, and body bone and the sense of structure special efficacy are stronger, charming beautiful, super Kubo is held and is remembered the chiffon draping effect and do not disappear.But due to 30D compound silk chiffon from weave → dye → finished product typing intermediate link is more, the difference (D number, the twist, double twisting typing fabric, wide cut, density etc.) that exists as fabric substrate and fabric specification will affect style and the feel of final finished.
Although Chinese patent CN200810107140.3 discloses a kind of compound silk-cloth fabric, warp thread and weft yarn are interweaved and form, and are plain weave construction.Warp thread is that full stretching of 50D/25F washed bright and beautiful bicomponent filament yarn, and glossiness is half delustring, and warp thread is for opening fine type, every warp thread totally 400 fine fibres after opening fibre.Weft yarn is the full stretched terylene filament of 75D/144F, and glossiness is full-dull.This fabric warp-wise density is the combination of every kind of different fibers, the cloth cover sense of touch is had smooth, the characteristics of delicate skin velvet, and the surface has the style of missing old times or old friends, and embodies the modern and pursues leisure, health, kinaesthesis.It is widely applicable, and special recommendation is applicable to jacket, wind coat, Casual Wear, to show out the peculiar style of product; Become to load onto body, both fashionable beautiful, increase again the fashion glamour.Chinese patent CN201010194394.0 discloses a kind of complex wire face fabric and production method thereof.Its technical scheme is: described complex wire face fabric is that low-stretch yarn is the first weft yarn take terylene net-thread as warp thread, and the compound silk of cotton yarn coating spandex is the double-layer fabric that the second weft yarn is interwoven.Described complex wire face fabric can produce three-dimensional pattern, and is quick-drying washable, and rebound performance is good.Again, Chinese patent CN201110075027.3 discloses a kind of compound silk silk-like fabric and technique thereof, it is raw material thread that this compound silk silk-like fabric adopts the CATION abnormal contraction composite filament, and make after passing through successively reeling, twisting, typing, section warping, weave and dyeing, the surperficial velvet of this compound silk silk-like fabric is good, have again higher than the sense of dangling of soft feeling, fold sense and the elasticity of general fabric, can realize occurring two kinds with the colour system different colours with a dyed shell fabrics, observe change gloss by different angles.And what adopt due to 30D compound silk chiffon fabric is super fine denier compound silk fiber, in actual woven from weave → dye → finished product typing intermediate link is more, the difference (D number, the twist, double twisting typing fabric, wide cut, density etc.) that exists as fabric substrate and fabric specification all will affect style and the feel of final finished.Comprehensive prior art, existing compound silk chiffon fabric production technology all do not fully take into account in 30D compound silk chiffon weaving process specification through tram, silk twisting, when weaving stress produce may on the impact of finished product fabric feel and cloth style, still need further improvement perfect.
Summary of the invention
The object of the present invention is to provide the weaving method of organizine in a kind of compound silk chiffon fabric, according to the woven fabric feeling of this weaving method horn of plenty more, cloth style is better.
For achieving the above object, technical scheme of the present invention is: the weaving method of organizine in a kind of compound silk chiffon fabric, comprise the steps: check → winder → double twisting → typing → rewinding → warping → wear tying-in → weave, described organizine specification is 33.3dtex(FDY+POY)/(12+18) f, 25/m of described organizine S, Z-direction twisting, upper machine through close be 38/10cm.
As the preferred embodiments of the present invention, describedly weave that in step, fabric warp-wise shrinkage is controlled to be 15%~18%, warp tension is 1.3~2.3KN.
As the preferred embodiments of the present invention, the tram of described organizine and the same size rear gained Fabric width that interweaves is 175cm, and grammes per square metre is 44g/m
2
As the preferred embodiments of the present invention, described organizine is composited through spray silk, doubling, extension silk step by POY silk and FDY silk, the steps include: that (1) is molten to POY and FDY polyester fondant respectively on POY and FDY spinnerets, pull out simultaneously respectively POY and FDY silk through POY and FDY silk road from the spinnerets, the first temperature of spinning is 270-310 ℃; (2) POY that step (1) is pulled out and FDY silk directly merge by twice extension roller and Network device doubling, and described Network device is arranged on and extends between roller and up-coiler; (3) compound silk after step (2) doubling is hung simultaneously silk after thread guide, through winder winding around.
Aborning, equal D and different F counts in situation, the F number is higher, and difficulty of weaving is larger, otherwise easier; Lower at the identical D number of F number equally, it is more difficult to weave, otherwise easier.As the F number except the D number less than 1 yarn kind, be referred to as superfine fibre, the difference of F number and D number is larger, produce and follow-up weaving in, difficulty all can increase greatly, but weaves the fabric after processing, and is soft, close as skin.In weaving, the horizontal of fabric is warp-wise, and vertical is broadwise.Warp-wise limits the length of cloth, and broadwise limits the width of cloth, is commonly called as fabric width; In the identical situation of broadwise, the warp-wise total number is larger, and it is more difficult to weave, otherwise easy.Consider intractability and weave effect, the present invention's the most selected organizine specification limit is decided to be 33.3dtex(FDY+POY)/(12+18) f; And upper machine is defined as 38/10cm through close.Adopted technique scheme, beneficial effect of the present invention is: by the reasonable control to the organizine weaving process, come the design feature light, thin, that waft of woven compound silk chiffon fabric more obvious with this, and have feel and the sense of dangling of smooth softness as silk.
The specific embodiment
The present invention is further described below in conjunction with embodiment.
Embodiment: it is 33.3dtex(FDY+POY that organizine is selected specification)/(12+18) f, concrete production stage is: (1) is molten to POY and FDY polyester fondant respectively on POY and FDY spinnerets, pull out simultaneously respectively POY and FDY silk through POY and FDY silk road from the spinnerets, the first temperature of spinning is 270-310 ℃; (2) POY that step (1) is pulled out and FDY silk directly merge by twice extension roller and Network device doubling, and described Network device is arranged on and extends between roller and up-coiler; (3) compound silk after step (2) doubling is hung simultaneously silk after thread guide, through winder winding around.Again organizine is weaved through following operation: check → winder → double twisting → typing → rewinding → weave.Organizine S in weaving process, 25/m of Z-direction twisting, upper machine through close be 38/10cm, fabric warp-wise shrinkage is controlled to be 15%~18%, warp tension is 1.3~2.3KN.Select the tram of same size, the rear gained Fabric width that interweaves is 175cm again, and grammes per square metre is 44g/m2.
The present invention is not limited to above-mentioned concrete embodiment, and those of ordinary skill in the art is from above-mentioned design, and without performing creative labour, all conversion of having done are within all dropping on protection scope of the present invention.
Claims (4)
1. the weaving method of organizine in a compound silk chiffon fabric, it is characterized in that, comprise the steps: check → winder → double twisting → typing → rewinding → warping → wear tying-in → weave, described organizine specification is 33.3dtex(FDY+POY)/(12+18) f, 25/m of described organizine S, Z-direction twisting, upper machine through close be 38/10cm.
2. the weaving method of organizine in compound silk chiffon fabric according to claim 1, is characterized in that, describedly weaves that in step, fabric warp-wise shrinkage is controlled to be 15%~18%, and warp tension is 1.3~2.3KN.
3. the weaving method of organizine in compound silk chiffon fabric according to claim 1, is characterized in that, the tram of described organizine and the same size rear gained Fabric width that interweaves is 175cm, and grammes per square metre is 44g/m2.
4. the weaving method of organizine in compound silk chiffon fabric according to claim 1, it is characterized in that, described organizine is composited through spray silk, doubling, extension silk step by POY silk and FDY silk, the steps include: that (1) is molten to POY and FDY polyester fondant respectively on POY and FDY spinnerets, pull out simultaneously respectively POY and FDY silk through POY and FDY silk road from the spinnerets, the first temperature of spinning is 270-310 ℃; (2) POY that step (1) is pulled out and FDY silk directly merge by twice extension roller and Network device doubling, and described Network device is arranged on and extends between roller and up-coiler; (3) compound silk after step (2) doubling is hung simultaneously silk after thread guide, through winder winding around.
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Citations (6)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
US3899562A (en) * | 1970-04-15 | 1975-08-12 | Vickers Zimmer Ag | Process for the production of mixed yarns |
JP2001192940A (en) * | 2000-01-07 | 2001-07-17 | Kawabou Textured Kk | False-twist composite finished yarn, method and equipment for producing the same, and woven fabric and knitted fabric |
CN1368564A (en) * | 2001-02-08 | 2002-09-11 | 淮阴宏丽化学纤维有限公司 | FDY one-step method for preparing three-component blended polyester filament |
CN1888157A (en) * | 2006-07-26 | 2007-01-03 | 青岛高合有限公司 | Polyester melt POY, FDY compound silk spinning method |
CN101705565A (en) * | 2009-12-10 | 2010-05-12 | 高国龙 | Colored particle tartan fabric and production process thereof |
CN101748545A (en) * | 2009-12-17 | 2010-06-23 | 章金龙 | Dacron simulation crepe yarn process |
-
2013
- 2013-03-13 CN CN2013100788602A patent/CN103114364A/en active Pending
Patent Citations (6)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
US3899562A (en) * | 1970-04-15 | 1975-08-12 | Vickers Zimmer Ag | Process for the production of mixed yarns |
JP2001192940A (en) * | 2000-01-07 | 2001-07-17 | Kawabou Textured Kk | False-twist composite finished yarn, method and equipment for producing the same, and woven fabric and knitted fabric |
CN1368564A (en) * | 2001-02-08 | 2002-09-11 | 淮阴宏丽化学纤维有限公司 | FDY one-step method for preparing three-component blended polyester filament |
CN1888157A (en) * | 2006-07-26 | 2007-01-03 | 青岛高合有限公司 | Polyester melt POY, FDY compound silk spinning method |
CN101705565A (en) * | 2009-12-10 | 2010-05-12 | 高国龙 | Colored particle tartan fabric and production process thereof |
CN101748545A (en) * | 2009-12-17 | 2010-06-23 | 章金龙 | Dacron simulation crepe yarn process |
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Application publication date: 20130522 |