CN102844017B - Hair care composition containing gamlogic acid, Resina garciniae acid esters or Resina garciniae amide - Google Patents

Hair care composition containing gamlogic acid, Resina garciniae acid esters or Resina garciniae amide Download PDF

Info

Publication number
CN102844017B
CN102844017B CN201180018951.6A CN201180018951A CN102844017B CN 102844017 B CN102844017 B CN 102844017B CN 201180018951 A CN201180018951 A CN 201180018951A CN 102844017 B CN102844017 B CN 102844017B
Authority
CN
China
Prior art keywords
hair
acid
formula
salt
compound
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Expired - Fee Related
Application number
CN201180018951.6A
Other languages
Chinese (zh)
Other versions
CN102844017A (en
Inventor
伊娃·彼得斯
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
DSM IP Assets BV
Original Assignee
DSM IP Assets BV
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by DSM IP Assets BV filed Critical DSM IP Assets BV
Publication of CN102844017A publication Critical patent/CN102844017A/en
Application granted granted Critical
Publication of CN102844017B publication Critical patent/CN102844017B/en
Expired - Fee Related legal-status Critical Current
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical

Links

Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/49—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
    • A61K8/4973—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with oxygen as the only hetero atom
    • A61K8/498—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with oxygen as the only hetero atom having 6-membered rings or their condensed derivatives, e.g. coumarin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9783—Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
    • A61K8/9789—Magnoliopsida [dicotyledons]
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9783—Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
    • A61K8/9794—Liliopsida [monocotyledons]
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/06—Preparations for styling the hair, e.g. by temporary shaping or colouring
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/10—Preparations for permanently dyeing the hair
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/12—Preparations containing hair conditioners
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q7/00—Preparations for affecting hair growth
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/002—Preparations for repairing the hair, e.g. hair cure
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/02—Preparations for cleaning the hair

Landscapes

  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Public Health (AREA)
  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
  • Epidemiology (AREA)
  • Birds (AREA)
  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Biotechnology (AREA)
  • Botany (AREA)
  • Microbiology (AREA)
  • Mycology (AREA)
  • Dermatology (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)

Abstract

The present invention relates to a kind of cosmetic composition, the compound of its contained (I) or formula (II) or salt, wherein R1 and R2 is hydrogen (H) all independently, or C that is saturated, straight chain or branching 1-C 8alkyl.More specifically, the invention still further relates to described cosmetic composition for preventing hair from turing greyish white and/or for recovering and/or keeping the purposes in natural hair color.

Description

Hair care composition containing gamlogic acid, Resina garciniae acid esters or Resina garciniae amide
The present invention relates to a kind of cosmetic composition, it comprises such as formula the gamlogic acid (gambogic acid) described by (I) or formula (II) or its salt, its ester or its amide.More specifically, the present invention relates to described cosmetic composition in the purposes for preventing hair from turing greyish white and/or for recovering and/or for keeping natural hair color and reparation or enhancing hair growth.
In addition, the present invention relates to a kind of method for preventing hair from turing greyish white and/or for recovering and/or for keeping natural hair color, it comprises the following steps: the topical compositions of the gamlogic acid described by the formula including effective amount (I) or formula (II) or its salt, its ester or its amide to be coated on the skin of human hair.
The invention still further relates to formula (I) or the gamlogic acid described by formula (II) or its salt, its ester or its amide melanocytic sum and/or increase melanocyte and break up from hair sheath to hair germ and purposes moving in for increasing hair follicle.
It is the clear signal of mankind aging that hair turns greyish white, but its mechanism is still failed to understand so far substantially.Hair is made up of the keratic protein of what is called.Hair itself is divided into three layers, outer cuticle, mesocortex and center medullary substance.If hair is coloured, be so owing to there is pigment-melanin (black or brown) or pheomelanin (red or yellow).If lack these pigment, hair becomes white." poliosis " is the term being used in reference to achromachia, and achromachia is the illusion produced by mixture that is white and colored hair.Hair grows from hair follicle.The wall of hair follicle forms the external root sheath of hair.The ball top that formation comprises germinal matrix (this is the root of hair growth) is widened in the bottom of hair follicle.Skin histology stretches out and enters hair follicle substrate formation dermal papilla, and this has capillary network to provide oxygen, energy and the aminoacid needed for growth.
Melanocyte is present in the ball top on dermal papilla top, chromogenesis grain (melanosome), and pigment granule is transferred to hair shaft and forms epithelial cell (keratinocyte), and is distributed in whole cortex.Meanwhile, they form the pigment unit of hair follicle.In hair follicle, there is the inner root sheath of three layers round hair.Heng Lishi layer (Henle ' s layer) be 1 cells thick, and be positioned at the centre of sheath.Huxley's layer (Huxley ' s layer) is 2 or 3 cells thick, and is positioned at the centre of sheath.The crust of this inner root sheath and the crust of hair fasten mutually.Hair and inner root sheath are with the growth of identical speed, but inner root sheath about 2/3rds punishment on hair follicle are separated, so only have hair to expose exceed skin surface.
It is well known in the art that, because disappearance hair melanocytic in hair follicle turns greyish white (Tobin 2009, Int.J.Trichology 1 (2): 83-93).This process had both affected the melanocyte hair being positioned at the pigment unit also directly causing hair fiber painted bottom hair follicle, impact is positioned at the pioneering melanocyte of the extremity of the external root sheath of hair follicle again, pioneering melanocyte act as the warehouse (Van Neste and Tobin 2004, Micron 35:193-200) that color element regenerates in each hair cycle.
The impact adjusting aging as much as possible has ever-increasing importance.In the context of the present invention, use dyeing process shampoo usually to make to be considered to unhandsome white hair to disappear.But, it is obvious that, although this technology proves very effective in the canescent impact of counteracting hair, the canescent cause of hair is not affected.Therefore, this solution is temporary transient, and needs to upgrade continually along with hair growth.
Therefore, in hair-care industry, still there are expectation needs for a long time, prevent the hair relevant with the age from turing greyish white, prevent the self-colored minimizing of hair, even strengthening the recovery of natural hair color, is not only because its lasting effects, also because it can stop the vision literature of ageing process.
Present inventor surprisingly finds now, Gamboges acid derivative as described below has great potential as cosmetic composition, it can be used for for preventing hair from turing greyish white and/or recovering and/or keep natural hair color in hair-care application, as described in compound and derivant increase melanocytic sum and increase melanocyte in hair follicle and to break up from hair sheath to hair germ and shown in the ability of moving.
Therefore, in first embodiment, the invention provides a kind of cosmetic composition, its contained (I) or the compound of formula (II) or the salt of described compound,
Formula (I):
Formula (II):
Wherein R1 and R2 is hydrogen (H) all independently, or C that is saturated, straight chain or branching 1-C 8alkyl.
It being understood that formula (I) as implied above and formula (II) include all possible stereoisomer.
In the above-mentioned definition of formula (I) or formula (II) compound, preferred R1 and R2 group is hydrogen, methyl, ethyl, propyl group, isopropyl, butyl, sec-butyl, isobutyl group, amyl group, neopentyl, hexyl, 2-ethyl hexyl, heptyl and octyl group all independently.It is readily understood that any low alkyl group containing 3 or more carbon atoms can be straight chain or branched chain.
Most preferred R1 and/or R2 alkyl is selected from methyl, ethyl and propyl group.
The salt of the gamlogic acid of formula (I) or formula (II) or amide derivatives can be formed by the acceptable cation of any cosmetics, and the acceptable cation of described cosmetics means any metal cation and nontoxic and/or can not cause anaphylactoid any organic cation to skin.Described cationic example is ammonium salt and alkylammonium salt, alkali metal cation (such as sodium ion and potassium ion) and alkaline earth metal cation (such as calcium ion and magnesium ion).
In a particular embodiment, R1 group is hydrogen, thus be the salt of gamlogic acid or described acid by the compound confines of formula (I), and by primary amine or secondary amine derivative that formula (II) compound confines is gamlogic acid, wherein R2 is hydrogen, methyl, ethyl, propyl group, isopropyl, butyl, sec-butyl, isobutyl group, amyl group, neopentyl, hexyl, 2-ethyl hexyl, heptyl or nonyl.Any low alkyl group containing 3 or more carbon atoms can be straight chain or branched chain.Wherein most preferred R2 alkyl is selected from methyl, ethyl and propyl group.
In one preferred embodiment, cosmetic composition comprises the salt of gamlogic acid, Resina garciniae amide or described compound, comprises all possible stereoisomer.
The Resina garciniae amide according to formula (II) is comprised according to the most preferred compositions of the present invention, wherein R1 and R2 is hydrogen, have such as formula the spatial chemistry shown in (III), it has entitling under following CA: 2-butylene amide, 2-methyl-4-[(1R, 3aS, 5S, 11R, 14aS)-3a, 4, 5, 7-tetrahydrochysene-8-hydroxyl-3, 3, 11-trimethyl-13-(3-methyl-2-butene-1-base)-11-(4-methyl-3-amylene-1-base)-7, 15-dioxo-1, 5-methylene-1H, 3H, 11H-furan [3, 4-g] pyrans [3, 2-b] xanthene-1-base]-, (2Z)-and following CAS numbering (286935-60-2)
Formula (III)
In another embodiment, cosmetic composition according to the present invention comprises the rough Gamboge (crude gamboges resin) containing gamlogic acid and/or Resina garciniae amide or the natural extract from the resin oozed out in Garciniahandburryi tree, as described in WO2008/148008.
Compound of the present invention can be derived from chemical supplier, such as Sigma.Gamlogic acid can be purified simply by following method: the pyrimidine salt being prepared crude extractive by Gamboge, repeatedly carries out the recrystallization of salt subsequently in ethanol.This resin oozes out from Garcinia handburyi sets, and this tree is the tree being grown on Asia.Described by method of purification has in WO2008/148008, in addition, Resina garciniae amide can use the amidatioon chemical reaction of standard to prepare as presoma with gamlogic acid, and this is in P.N.A.S. (2007), described by also having in 104:16329-16334.
In another embodiment, can comprise further according to cosmetic composition of the present invention and be usually used in cosmetic composition, more specifically for the adjuvant (carrier and/or excipient or diluent) of local hair care composition.
Be usually used in being selected from Ullmann ' sEncyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry (1989) according to the suitable adjuvant in hair care composition of the present invention, Vol.A 12, in Hair Preparations more specifically, such as in international patent application no WO 00/06094, WO 00/07550 and WO 01/06994 with general term those disclosed.
In yet another embodiment of the present invention, cosmetic composition according to the present invention comprises above-mentioned formula (I), formula (II) or formula (III) compound, based on the gross weight of compositions, its content is between 0.00001 % by weight and 20 % by weight.Based on the gross weight of compositions, preferred content according to the present invention is between 0.0001 % by weight and 1 % by weight.
Local hair care composition according to the preferred cosmetic composition of the present invention is following form: hair treating formulation used for cosmetic (such as hair oil (hair tonics) and conditioner), preparation for hair care (such as pre-treatment preparation), moulding frost, moulding Gel mile, brilliantine, hair rinses, nursing suit (treatment pack), deep layer hair nursing agent (such as disposable and flushing deep layer conditioner), hair style moulding (hair-structuring) preparation (such as perming lastingly, (send out by hot rolling, moderate curly hair, cold coiling is sent out) wave formulations), hair straightening preparations, liquid hair styling preparations, hair foam, hair is sprayed, bleaching preparations (such as hydrogenperoxide steam generator), glittering shampoo (lightening shampoo), bleaching frost, bleaching powder, bleaching cream or oil, interim, semi-permanent or permanent hair dye, containing the preparation of autoxidation dyestuff, or natural hair dye (as mignonettetree or Flos Chrysanthemi).
Most preferred preparation for hair care is the disposable compositions being selected from hair oil, conditioner, inorganic agent and moulding frost.
Based on application, preparation for hair care can be following form: (aerosol) spraying, (aerosol) mousse, Gel mile, Gel mile spraying, cream, emulsion or wax.Hair spraying also comprises not containing the aerosol spray that the pump of propellant sprays.Hair mousse also comprises not containing the aerosol mousse pumping up bubble of propellant.Hair spraying and hair mousse mainly comprise or comprise specially can soluble component or water dispersible component.If the component be used in hair of the present invention spraying or hair mousse is water dispersible, so they can be that particle size is generally 1 to 350nm, are preferably micro-disperse system form of 1 to 250nm.The solid content of this type of preparation accounts for 0.5 to 20 % by weight of total formulation weight usually.Not stablize usually by other emulsifying agent or surfactant for this type of micro-disperse system.
Therefore, according to compositions of the present invention can comprise further for the protection of hair from adverse environment impact with the composition improving hair health.Therefore, can comprise extra used for cosmetic or skin adjuvant and/or additive (cosmetics supporting agent) according to hair care composition of the present invention, they are preferably selected from:
1) water
2) water-miscible organic solvent, preferably, C 1-C 4alkanol
3) oil, lipid, wax
4) C 6-C 30monocarboxylic acid and monovalence, bivalence or trivalent alcohol with 3) different multiple ester
5) saturated acyclic and ring-type hydro carbons
6) fatty acid
7) fatty alcohol
8) silicone oil
9) surface active ingredient
And composition thereof.
Other adjuvant and additive can be contained according to hair care composition of the present invention, such as, antiseptic, antioxidant, silicone, thickening agent, softening agent, anion, cation, nonionic or amphoteric emulsifier, opacifier (screening agent), defoamer, wetting agent, spice, surfactant, filler, screening agent, anion, cation, nonionic or amphiphilic polymers or its mixture, propellant, acidify or basifier, dyestuff, coloring agent, pigment or nano dye, light stabilizer, insect resistant agent, antibacterial, or be usually formulated into other composition any in hair care composition.The necessary amounts of adjuvant and additive easily can be selected based on the product wanted by those skilled in the art, and this will set forth in an embodiment, and be not limited to this.
The exemplary hair gel with the compounds of this invention can comprise:
1.0.1 to 20wt.-%, the preferably at least one hair polymer of 1 to 10wt.-%;
At least one carrier (solvent) of 2.0 to 10wt.-%, it is selected from C2-C5 alcohol, preferred alcohol;
3.0.01 to 5 % by weight, preferably at least one thickening agent of 0.2 to 3 % by weight;
The propellant of 4.0 to 50 % by weight;
5.0 to 10 % by weight, preferably 0.1 to 3 % by weight be different from 1) styling polymer, be preferably water soluble nonionic polymer;
At least one oiling agent again of 6.0-1 % by weight, is preferably selected from glycerol and glycerol derivatives;
Other conventional additives of 7.0 complete 30 % by weight, such as silicone component;
8.0.005 to 5wt.-% according to formula of the present invention (I) or formula (II) compound;
9. water, adds to 100wt.-%.
Exemplary conditioner preparation according to the present invention can comprise:
The hair polymer of 1.0.05 to 10 % by weight;
2.5 to the water of 95wt.-%;
3.5 to the surfactant of 50wt.-%;
Other conditioning reagent of 4.0 to 5wt.-%;
Other conventional additives of 5.0 to 10wt.-%;
6. the compound according to formula of the present invention (I) or formula (II) of 20wt.-% at the most,
All the components amounts to 100wt.-%.
Have and can comprise according to the exemplary modeling composition of compound of the present invention:
1.0.1 at least one hair polymer of 10wt.-%;
The water of 2.20 to 99wt.-% and/or alcohol;
At least one propellant of 3.0 to 70wt.-%;
The conventional additives of 4.0 to 20wt.-%;
5.0.005 to the compound according to formula of the present invention (I) or formula (II) of 5wt.-%.
Have and can comprise according to the exemplary moulding gel of compound of the present invention:
1.0.1 to the hair polymer of 10wt.-%;
The water of 2.60 to 99.85wt.-% and/or alcohol;
3.0.05 to the Gel mile of forming agent of 10wt.-%;
Other conventional additives of 4.0 to 20wt.-%;
5.0.005 to the compound according to formula of the present invention (I) or formula (II) of 5wt.-%.
Have and can comprise according to the exemplary hair care composition (spraying) of compound of the present invention:
1.0.005 to the compound according to formula of the present invention (I) or formula (II) of 5wt.-%;
2.30 to 99.5wt.-%, preferably at least one of 40 to 99wt.-% is selected from following solvent: water, solvent and composition thereof that can be miscible with water;
3.0 to the propellant of 70wt.-%;
4.0.1 at least one water solublity or the dispersible hair polymer of water of 10wt.-%;
The soluble silicone of at least one water of 5.0 to 0.3 % by weight;
At least one wax of 6.0 to 0.5 % by weight, preferably, at least one fatty acid amide; With
7. conventional additives.
Have and can comprise according to the another kind of hair care composition of compound of the present invention:
1.0.05 at least one hair polymer of 20wt.-%;
The water of 2.20 to 99.95wt% and/or alcohol;
3.0 to the conventional additives of 79.5wt.-%;
4.0.005 to the compound according to formula of the present invention (I) or formula (II) of 5wt.-%.
Have and can comprise according to the exemplary aerosol agent mouse compositions of compound of the present invention:
1.0.1 at least one hair polymer of 10wt.-%;
The water of 2.55 to 99.8wt.-% and/or alcohol;
The propellant of 3.5 to 20wt.-%;
4.0.1 to the emulsifying agent of 5wt.-%;
The conventional additives of 5.0 to 10wt.-%;
6.0.005 to the compound according to formula of the present invention (I) or formula (II) of 5wt.-%.
Other the dispersible hair polymer of water-soluble or water of at least one can be comprised according to hair care composition of the present invention.Commercially available hair-care (such as hair moulding) polymer or conditioning polymer for typical hair polymer of the present invention, the copolymer of the copolymer of the copolymer of such as vinyl acetate and .beta.-methylacrylic acid, methyl vinyl ether and maleic anhydride, acrylic or methacrylic acid and other monomers, polyurethane, NVP and silicone polymer.
The content of hair polymer, based on the gross weight of compositions, is generally by weight about 0.1 to 10%.Herein, preferably use water solublity or the dispersible polyurethane of water, if necessary, this polyurethane additionally comprises the siloxane group of copolymerized form.
At least one water soluble silicone, particularly polydimethylsiloxane can be comprised according to compositions of the present invention, such as, derive from Goldschmidt's the content of silicone, based on the gross weight of compositions, is generally by weight about 0.0001 to about 2%, is preferably the moon 0.001 to 1% by weight.Preferred wax according to the present invention is fatty acid amide (such as erucyl amide).
If appropriate, defoamer can also be comprised according to hair care composition of the present invention, such as, based on the defoamer of silicone.The content of defoamer, based on the total amount of compositions, usually by weight at the most 0.001%.Compositions tool according to the present invention has the following advantages: they have the required grip to hair on the one hand; Described polymer is easy to wash off (redispersible) on the other hand.Usually, the natural outward appearance of hair and gloss is given, even if hair itself has very dense and/or pitch-black character.
Term " alcohol " refers to all alcohol be generally used in cosmetics, such as ethanol, normal propyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, but is not limited thereto.
Cosmetic adjuvants and additive according to other suitable composition of the present invention, such as, propellant, defoamer, surface active ingredient (such as surfactant, emulsifying agent), foaming agent and solubilizing agent.Surface active ingredient used can be anion, cation, both sexes or neutrality.Other composition can be antiseptic, antioxidant, aromatic oil, oil oiling again agent (lipidic refatter), active and/or nursing composition (such as panthenol, collagen, vitamin, protein hydrolysate, α and β hydroxy carbonate), stabilizing agent, pH conditioner, opacifier, coloring agent, dyestuff, gel former, salt, wetting agent, complex forming agents, viscosity conditioner or opacifier, but is not limited thereto.
In order to obtain some character, hair care composition can also comprise the following conditioning compound based on silicone, described compound is such as silicone compounds (such as, ammonia dimethyl silscone (CTFA), GP 4 Silicone of poly-alkylsiloxane, poly-aryl siloxanes, poly-aryl alkyl siloxanes, silicone resin, polyether silicone or Dimethicon Copolyole (CTFA) and aminofunctional and GP (Genesee)), (Dow Corning), AFL (UnionCarbide) polymer or disclosed in EP-B 852 488.
Other suitable composition comprises silicone Propfpolymer, and it has polymerizing silicone main chain and does not contain the side chain of silicone or have not containing main chain and the silicone side chain of silicone, such as polymer disclosed in Silk or EP-B 852 488.
The typical propellant agent that hair is sprayed or aerosol mousse is used can be used.Preferably, the mixture of propane/butane, pentane, dimethyl ether, 1,1-Difluoroethane (HFC-152a), carbon dioxide, nitrogen or compressed air.
The surfactant of the emulsifying agent that aerosol mousse is all or shampoo formulation can be the conventional nonionic, anion, cation or the amphoteric emulsifier/surfactant that use.
The example of nonionic emulsifier is (INCI nomenclature) Laureth class, such as Laureth-4; Cetheth class, such as Cetheth-1, Polyethylene Glycol cetyl ether; Cetheareth class, lactyl ester, the alkyl poly glucoside of such as cetheareth-25, Fatty acid macrogolglycerides, hydroxylated lecithin, fatty acid.
The example of non-ionic surface active agent is, has the product of the linear alkyl chain of 6 to 20 carbon atoms or the aliphatic alcohol of branched alkyl chain or alkyl phenol and oxirane and/or expoxy propane.The content of alkylene oxide is about 6 to 60 moles relative to 1 mol of alcohol.In addition, the fatty acid ester of alkyl amine oxide, monoalkyl or dialkyl amide, Polyethylene Glycol, alkyl polyglycoside or sorbitan ether-ether are also suitable for joining in preparation for hair care of the present invention.
The example of cationic emulsifier/surfactant is, quaternised ammonium compounds, such as hexadecyltrimethylammonium chloride or ammonium bromide (INCI: cetrimonium chloride or cetrimonium bromide), stearylbenzyidimethylammonium ammonium chloride, VARISOFT TA100, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, hydroxy ethyl cetyl base dimethyl ammonium phosphate (INCI:Quaternium-44), mono LS (INCI: cocos nucifera oil trimethyl methoxy ammonium sulfate (Cocotrimoniummethosulfate)), poly-(oxygen-1,2-second two base), three-(hydroxyl) phosphoric acid (octadecyl nitrilo-) three-2,1-second two bases ester (INCIQuaternium-52).In addition, cation guar derivatives, such as Guar beans hydroxypropyl-trimethyl ammonium chloride (INCI) can be used for conditioner and/or shampoo formulation.
Anion emulsifier/surfactant can be selected from: alkyl sulfate, alkyl ether sulfate, alkylsulfonate, alkylaryl sulfonates, alkyl succinate, alkyl sulfo succinate, N-Alkanoyl sarcosinates, acyl taurine salt, acyl-hydroxyethyl sulfonate, alkylphosphonic, alkyl ether phosphate, alkyl ether carboxy acid salt, alpha-alkene sulfonate, especially on alkali metal salt and alkali slaine (as sodium salt, potassium salt, magnesium salt, calcium salt) and ammonium salt and triethanolamine salt.Described alkyl ether sulfate, alkyl ether phosphate and alkyl ether carboxy acid salt can comprise 1 to 10 ethylene oxide or propylene oxide unit in the molecule, preferably include 1 to 3 ethylene oxide unit.
Suitable anion surfactant is; such as, sodium lauryl sulfate, ammonium lauryl sulfate, sodium laureth sulfate, Zetesol AP, sodium N-lauroyl sarcosinate, oleyl succinate, lauryl 2-Sulfosuccinic acid ammonium, dodecylbenzene sodium sulfonate, DBSA triethanolamine salt.
Suitable amphoteric surfactant is, such as, alkyl betaine, alkyl amidopropylbetaines, alkyl sulfo betaines, alkyl glycine ester, alkyl carboxyl glycinate, alkyl both sexes acetas or propionic ester, alkyl both sexes diacetate esters or dipropionate, such as coco dimethyl sulfopropyl betaine, lauryl betaine, cocoamidopropyl or cocos nucifera oil both sexes sodium propionate.
All conventional Gel mile forming agents can be used as Gel mile of forming agent, such as micro-crosslinked polyacrylic acid (such as carbomer (INCI)), cellulose derivative, polysaccharide (such as xanthan gum), capric acid/Trivent OCG, sodium acrylate copolymer, polyquaternium-32 (with) mineral oil (INCI), acrylate sodium copolymer (with) mineral oil (with) PPG-1 Trideceth-6, polyquaternary ammonium salt-37 (with) propylene glycol dicaprate diacrylate (with) PPG-1 Trideceth-6, polyquaternary ammonium salt-7, polyquaternary ammonium salt-44.
In order to provide pearlescent outward appearance to preparation or provide the product of more magnificent or more breast, hair care composition can comprise opacifier extraly and/or give the material of color and luster as Margarita, the soap of such as carboxylic acid or salt, containing cationic cationic polymer, dimethyl silscone (INCI) or amino dimethyl silscone (INCI).
Conventional additives is such as long-chain fatty alcohol, as spermol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, dimethyl 18-amine..In addition, hair care composition can comprise lipid, such as dimethyl silscone, amino dimethyl silscone, mineral oil or silicone derivative (such as dimethyl silscone copolyol).
Present invention also offers above-mentioned composition for preventing hair from turing greyish white, for recovering and/or keeping natural hair color and/or for repairing and/or strengthening the purposes in hair growth.
More preferably, the invention provides above-mentioned composition for preventing hair from turing greyish white, for recovering and/or keeping natural hair color and/or for repairing and/or strengthening the purposes in hair growth.
The Resina garciniae amide of the compound, particularly formula (III) of formula (I) or formula (II) to can be used in mammal for preventing hair from turing greyish white, for recovering and/or keeping natural hair color.
According to the compound of formula of the present invention (I) or formula (II) preventing hair from turing greyish white, for recovering and/or keeping the use effect in natural hair color to illustrate in an embodiment or illustrated by process below:
As with reference to (contrast), from scalp, fitly shear the lock of hair containing 100 hairs of having an appointment.The color of this lock of hair is measured from root to tip.This can be undertaken by following method: 1) visual scoring, 2) with high density picture file and mark 3) after hair degradation and melanin extract, determine the melanin content in hair by pigment analysis.In the case of the latter, melanin can be measured by photometry or by chemical reaction, described chemical reaction is: form pyrroles-2 by true black, 3,5-tricarboxylic acids, form the hydroxy amino isomers of phenylalanine of pheomelanin, carry out quantitative chromatography, spectrum analysis or spectrophotometric analysis subsequently.
Subsequently by sample (2-10mL or mg/cm of the topical compositions of the compound of the formula (I) containing preferred amounts or formula (II) 2, depend on the type of preparation; Be preferably disposable product, such as hair oil, emulsion or cream) be coated on scalp, every day at least one times, be generally every day 1 to 4 times, continuous use at least 3 months, be specially 6 months (because the growth rate of hair is the about 1cm/ month), and massage makes it be uniformly distributed on scalp.After coating, product does not need to wash off.Process the phase last, get the second hair sample from the same position of scalp, and analyze as stated above.
Melanin content, hair color or greyish white degree relatively before and after the process phase.
In another embodiment, invention further provides the purposes according to cosmetic composition of the present invention, wherein as compositions as defined above comprises the extra active substance of at least one further, be selected from the group be made up of antioxidant described below, opacifier, coloring agent and bioactivator.
Thus, the compound according to formula of the present invention (I) or formula (II) can combinationally use with other compositions, to impact and improve hair health to protect hair from adverse environment.
antioxidant
Based on the present invention, all known antioxidants usually prepared in hair care composition can be used.Especially preferred is be selected from the antioxidant of following group, described group by aminoacid (such as, glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and derivant, imidazoles (such as, urocanic acid) and derivant, peptide (such as D, N-BETA-Alanyl-L-histidine, D-Carnosine, N-BETA-Alanyl-L-histidine and derivant are (such as, anserine)), carotenoid, carotene (such as, alpha-carotene, beta-carotene, lycopene) and derivant, chlorogenic acid and derivant, thioctic acid and derivant are (such as, dihydroxy thioctic acid), aurothioglucose, propylthiouracil and other mercaptan are (such as, thioredoxin, glutathion, cysteine, cystine, cystamine and its glycosyl-, N-acetyl group-, methyl-, ethyl-, propyl group-, amyl group-, butyl-and lauryl-, palmityl-, oil base-, y-6,7,9,10-18 carbon diene-1-base-(y-linoleyl), cholesteryl-and glyceryl ester) and salt, dilauryl thiodipropionate, distearylthiodi-propionate, thio-2 acid and derivant (ester thereof, ether, peptide, lipid, nucleotide, nucleoside and its salt) and low-down compatible dosage (such as, pmol/kg ~ μm ol/kg) sulfoxide amine (sulfoximine) compound (such as, buthionine sulfoximine (buthionine sulfoximine), homocysteine sulfoxide amine, fourth methyllanthionine sulfone (buthioninsulfone), five, six, seven thionine sulfoxide amine), (metal)-chelating agen (such as, alpha-hydroxy fatty acid extraly, Palmic acid, phytic acid, lactoferrin), beta-hydroxy acid (such as, citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid), humic acid (huminic acid), gallic acid, Galla Chinensis extract (gallic extracts), bilirubin, biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA and derivant thereof, unsaturated fatty acid and its derivant (such as, gamma-linoleic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid), folic acid and derivant thereof, ubiquinone and ubiquinol and derivant thereof, vitamin C and derivant (such as, ascorbic palmitate and VC-IP, sodium ascorbyl phosphate Mg, sodium ascorbyl phosphate Na, ascorbic acid acetas), tocopherol and derivant (such as, Viamin E-acetas), the mixture of natural Vitamin E), vitamin A and derivant (vitamin-A-cetylate and acetas) and coniferyl benzoate, rutinic acid and derivant, alpha-glycosyl rutin, ferulic acid, furfurylidene glucitol, carnosine, butylated hydroxytoluene, butylated hydroxyanisole (BHA), trihydroxy n-butyrophenone, urea and its derivant, mannose and derivant, zinc and derivant (such as, ZnO, ZnSO 4), selenium and derivant (such as, selenomethionine), the appropriate derivatives (salt, ester, ether, sugar, nucleotide, nucleoside, peptide and lipid) of stilbene and derivant (such as, stilbene oxide, trans-stilbene oxide) and described active component forms.One or more antiseptic/antioxidants can exist with the amount of at least 0.01 % by weight of present composition gross weight.Preferably, about 0.01 % by weight of present composition gross weight to about 10 % by weight are had.Most preferably, one or more antiseptic/antioxidants exist to about amount of 1 % by weight with about 0.1 % by weight.
opacifier
Opacifier advantageously can be selected from UV-A, UV-B, UV-C and/or broad band filters (filter).The example of UV-B or wide spectrum opacifier (namely at the material about between 290 and 340nm with maximum absorbance) can be organic and inorganic compound.Organic UV-B or spectrum opacifier be, such as, acrylate, such as octocrylene (octocrylene (octocrylene), 340), 2-cyano-3,3-diphenyl ethyl acrylate etc.; Camphor derivatives, such as 4 methyl benzylidene camphor unisol S-22, methylsulfuric acid Camphora benzalkonium (camphor benzalkoniummethosulfate), polyacrylamide base methyl benzylidene camphor, sulfo group benzylidene camphor, sulfomethvl benzylidene camphor, terephthalylidene two Camphora amidosulfonic acid etc.; Cinnamate derivates, such as octyl methoxycinnamate methoxy cinnamic acid ethoxyethyl group ester, diethanolamine methoxy cinnamate ester methoxycinnamate isoamyl valerate etc., and be bonded to the cinnamic acid derivative on siloxanes; Para-amino benzoic acid derivant, ethylaminobenzoate, the para-amino benzoic acid glyceride of such as para-amino benzoic acid, ESCAROL 507 2-ethyl hexyl ester, N-oxypropylation; Benzophenone, such as BP-3, UVINUL MS 40,2,2 ', 4,4 '-tetrahydroxy-benzophenone, 2,2 '-dihydroxy-4,4 '-dimethoxy-benzophenone etc.; Toluenyl malonic ester, such as 4-benzylidene malonic acid two-(2-ethylhexyl) ester; The ester of 2-(4-ethyoxyl-aniline methylene) malonic acid, open 2-(4-ethyoxyl-aniline methylene) diethyl malonate described in text EP 0,895 776 of such as European patent; As open in European patent text EP 0358584B1, EP 0538431B1 and the organosilicone compounds containing phenylmalonate base described in EP 0709080A1, such as PARSOL SLX ethylhexysalicylate (Drometrizole trisiloxane (Mexoryl XL)); Imdazole derivatives, such as Neo Heliopan Hydro and salt thereof the salt of Neo Heliopan Hydro is, such as, and alkali metal salt (as sodium salt or potassium salt), ammonium salt, alkylbenzyldimethylasaltsum saltsum, primary, secondary and tertiary amine salt (such as monoethanolamine salt, diethanolamine salt) etc.; Salicylic acid ester derivative, such as salicylic acid isopropyl benzyl ester, benzyl salicylate, butyl salicylate, ethylhexyl salicylate ( eHS, NEO HeliopanOS), salicylic acid isooctyl ester or homosalate (homosalate (homosalate), eHS, Helipan OS) etc.; Pyrrolotriazine derivatives, such as octyl triazone (Uvinul T-150), UVASORB HEB (Uvasorb HEB).Encapsulated UV lightscreening agent, such as encapsulated ethylhexyl methoxy cinnamate (Eusolex UV-Margarita) or load have the microcapsule of UV lightscreening agent, as disclosed etc. in EP 1471995.Inorganic compound is pigment, such as micronized ZnO, TiO 2etc..Term " micronized " refers to from about 5nm to about 200nm, particularly from about 15nm to the particle size of about 100nm.TiO 2granule also can by metal-oxide (such as aluminium oxide or zirconium oxide) or organic coating (such as polyhydric alcohol, methyl silicone, aluminium stearate, alkylsilyl groups) coated.This type coating is well known in the art.
Wide spectrum opacifier or UV-A opacifier are (namely, about there is between 320 to 400nm the material of maximum absorbance) example can be organic and inorganic compound, such as, dibenzoylmethane derivative, such as Parsol 1789 dimethoxydibenzoylmethane, isopropyl dibenzoyl methane etc.; Benzotriazole derivatives, such as 2,2 '-methylene-two (6-(2H-benzotriazole-2-base)-4-(1,1,3,3-tetramethyl butyl)-phenol (TINOSORBM) etc.; Two-ethylhexyl oxy phenol anisyl triazine (Tinosorb S) etc.; Phenylene-Isosorbide-5-Nitrae-bisbenzimidazole sulfonic acid or its salt, such as 2,2-(Isosorbide-5-Nitrae-phenylene)-two (1H-benzimidazole-4,6-disulfonic acid) (Neoheliopan AP); Through the dihydroxy benaophenonel that amino replaces, 2-(4-lignocaine-2-the hydroxy benzoyl)-hexyl-benzoate (Uvinul A plus) such as, described in the open text EP 1046391 of European patent; Ionic UV-A lightscreening agent described in International Patent Publication text WO2005080341A1.Pigment, such as micronized ZnO or TiO 2etc..Term " micronized " refers to from about 5nm to about 200nm, particularly from about 15nm to the particle size of about 100nm.TiO 2granule also can by metal-oxide (such as aluminium oxide or zirconium oxide) or organic coating (such as polyhydric alcohol, methyl silicone, aluminium stearate, alkylsilyl groups) coated.This type coating is well known in the art.
Because dibenzoylmethane derivative has limited light stability, therefore may need to these UV-A opacifiers in addition light stablize.Therefore, through the stable dibenzoylmethane derivative of following substances (such as, term " conventional UV-A screening agent " also refers to ), described material is such as, the open text EP A-0514491B1 of European patent and 3,3-diphenylacrylate described in EP A-0780119A1; Benzylidene camphor derivant described in US patent No.5605680; The organosilicone compounds containing phenylmalonate ester group described in European patent open text EP 0358584B1, EP 0538431B1 and EP0709080A1.
coloring agent
Generally speaking, in order to make hair care product according to the present invention painted, all substances under the visible ray (400-4000nm) of electromagnetic radiation with absorbance are all suitable.Usually following chromophore causes absorption: azo-, (one, two, three or many) Stilbene-, carotenoid-, Diarylmethylidene-, triaryl methylene-, xanthene-, acridine-, quinoline-, methine-(also can be polymethine) thiazole-, indamines-, indophenols-, azine-, oxazine-, thiazine-, anthraquinone-, indigo-blue-, phthalein cyanogen dyestuff and other synthesize, natural and/or inorganic chromophore.
FD & C (Federal Food in hair care product used in the present invention, medicine and cosmetics law) and D & C be such as, curcumin, riboflavin (riboflavin), riboflavin (1actofiavin), tartrazines, D C Yellow No. 10 (chinolinyellow), alkermes aluminum, azorubine, aubergine, cerise 4R, erythrosine, red 2G, indigo-blue, chlorophyll, CHLOROPHYLLINE, caramel, medicinal charcoal, carotenoid, carotene, annatto, bixin falls, orange red, Arnotto sarcocarp chromaticness (orlean), capsanthin, Fructus Capsici carbuncle element, lycopene, phylloxanthin (flavoxanthin), flavoxanthin, phylloxanthin (lutein), cryptoxanthine (kryptoaxanthin), rubixanthin, violaxanthin, piece reddish yellow matter, canthaxanthin, betanin, anthocyanin, but be not limited thereto.The example of dyestuff is, such as, and inorganic pigment, such as ferrum oxide (iron oxide red, iron oxide yellow, iron oxide black etc.), blue pigment, chrome oxide green or carbon black.Other coloring agent that available stable composition of the present invention is stable and dyestuff comprise organic pigment that is natural or synthesis, disperse dyes in solvent can be dissolved in (as HC type straight hair dyestuff, the red No.3 of such as HC, disperse dyes cited in other hair dyestuffs all cited in HC black No.2 and International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary Handbook 7thedition 1997 or Color Index InternationalSociety of Dyers and Colorist, stain varnish (the not dissolved salt of soluble dye, as the Ca salt of anionic dye, Ba salt or Al salt), solvable anion or the dye of positive ion (such as acid stain (anion), basic stain (cation)), direct dyes, chemically-reactive dyes or solvent dye, fluorescent dye, fluorescein and isothiocyanate.
bioactivator
Bioactivator is advantageously selected from the general activator that melanin generates, such as tryrosinase activator, peptide hormone, cAMP-activator and neurotrophic factor.
Preferred tryrosinase activator is any material increasing tryrosinase expression or enzymatic activity, such as, from the glycyrrhizin of Radix Glycyrrhizae.
The peptide hormone belonging to melanocortin group is preferred peptide hormone, comprises ACTH, α-MSH, β-MSH and γ-MSH; These peptides are cleavage products of the larger precursor peptide of so-called short opium-melanocyte cortin former (POMC).α-MSH is for painted most important melanocortin.Melanotropin (being collectively referred to as MSH or melanotropin) is by the spontaneous class peptide hormone of the HML cell of hypophysis.Melanocyte in their chafes and hair produces and discharges melanin (melanin generation).Therefore, they will advantageously with compound combination of the present invention.
The invention further relates to a kind of for preventing hair from turing greyish white and/or for recovering and/or keeping natural hair color and/or the method for repairing and/or strengthen hair growth, described method comprises the following steps: the topical compositions of the formula including effective amount (I) or formula (II) compound to be coated to have on the skin of human hair.
Term " the crinite skin of tool " refers to the crinite all parts of skin of tool, such as particularly scalp and face (eyelashes, eyebrow, beard).Most preferably, topical compositions is coated on the scalp of people (man at any age or woman).
" effective dose " that use in the method according to the invention refers to the amount obtained needed for physiological effect.Physiological effect can be realized by single dose or multiple dose.Certainly the dosage used can according to known factor (physiological property of such as concrete compositions and mode of administration and approach; Age of experimenter, health and weight; The nature and extent of symptom; The type of parallel processing; The frequency of process; And/or the effect expected) change, and can be adjusted by those skilled in the art.
Term " effective dose " ordinary representation is based on the gross weight at least 0.00001wt.-% of topical compositions.Preferably, based on the gross weight of topical compositions, topical compositions is with the amount of 0.00001wt.-% to 20wt.-%, most preferably comprise the compound according to formula of the present invention (I) or formula (II) with the amount of 0.0001wt.-% to 1wt.-%.
Preferably, topical compositions coating every day at least twice, such as morning once, and evening once.
When using in this article, term " topical compositions " refers to applicable topical application in mammalian keratinous tissue (the crinite skin of such as tool), any compositions being particularly coated on mankind's scalp.Especially, topical compositions is hair care composition, such as conditioner, inorganic agent, hair oil, moulding gel, mousse, shampoo, hair spraying, brilliantine, moulding frost, dyeing and lasting hair-curling composition.Interested especially in object of the present invention be hair oil, conditioner, inorganic agent, moulding gel (can be the form of gel, emulsion, tincture, spraying, mousse, bleaching composition or foam), can apply according to individual demand, such as emulsion, tincture, mousse or spraying once a day; Or it is weekly or twice as conditioner or inorganic agent.
According to of the present invention for prevent hair from turing greyish white and/or for recover and/or keep natural hair color and/or repair and/or strengthen hair growth method in the topical compositions that uses can comprise other compositions being usually used in topical compositions further, such as 5,6-dihydroxy indole quinoline HBr, 5, the 6-dihydroxy indole quinoline HBr combined with 2-methylresorcinol and/or arginine.
The compound that invention further provides formula as described in the present invention (I) or formula (II) to break up from hair sheath to hair germ and purposes moving for increasing sum melanocytic in hair follicle and/or for increasing melanocyte.
In hair follicle, melanocytic quantity can be assessed by standard method, such as, use full melanocyte (pan-melanocyte) label NKI-beteb to carry out immunohistochemical staining to melanocyte, counts NKI-beteb+ cell subsequently.
Melanocyte breaks up from hair sheath to hair germ and moves can be measured by following method: by the c-kit+ melanocyte immunohistochemical staining hair follicle, with later evaluation its in intrafollicular distribution.
By following non-limiting example to set forth the present invention further.
Embodiment
embodiment 1: Resina garciniae amide is on the impact of cultivated hair follicle
The tissue containing Crinis Carbonisatus hair follicle of the growth stage (trophophase anagen) being in hair cycle is obtained from elective operation on face intervention.Be separated hair follicle according to the method (Philpott et al.1990, J Cell Sci.97:463-471) that this area has been established and retained in the medium.In the incubation time of 7 days, every other day Resina garciniae amide (GA) is applied to through the painted anagen VI hair follicle cultivated with different concentration (between 10 nanomoles and 1 micromole, matched group does not add GA by comparison).
Measure the possible hair growth promotion of hair shaft elongation as assessment GA or the method for depression effect.Under the concentration between 0.1 and 1 micromole, time compared with matched group, the development of hair cycle is not had to measure the increase of hair shaft elongation yet even if observe coating GA.When concentration is up to 1 micromole, do not observe poisoning sign.Therefore can infer from first observed result, the operable dosage range of GA is between 10 nanomoles and 1 micromole, and GA can be used as hair growth promoter or renovation agent.
The macroscopic analysis of Hair Follicle Pigmentation demonstrates effective Pigmented slow minimizing in the incubation time matched group of 7 days (external turn greyish white).Under the concentration of the GA between 0.1 and 1 micromole, observe Hair Follicle Pigmentation calmness obviously and improve significantly, GA can maintain Hair Follicle Pigmentation calmness effectively in cultivated early growth period hair follicle.
The immunohistochemical analysis of hair follicle is carried out according to standard method.Use the immunohistochemical staining of full melanocyte label NKI-beteb and proliferation marker Ki67 to estimate that GA exists melanocytic sum in the lower hair follicle cultivated.When GA uses with the concentration between 0.1 and 0.5 micromole, the melanocytic sum remained in the hair follicle of the early growth period of hair cycle increases.This increase is dose dependent.This observation shows the mobilization of GA to melanocyte storehouse in the reinforcement maintenance of coloring units and external root sheath.
Use Trp2 as the label of melanocyte precursor, we find that in matched group hair follicle, the melanocytic quantity of Trp2+ is higher.These cells mainly find in coloring units, and this shows in this compartment, have a large amount of residual melanocyte precursor.Confirm these results by the result that cKit spike obtains, cKit is the early stage melanocytic label of migration, activation, has found the early stage melanocyte of migration, activation in the hair follicle with 0.1 and 1 micromole GA process the most significantly.
Result is summarized in table 1 below:
Embodiment 2: dandruff control shampoo
INCI nomenclature % by weight
Water Be added into 100
Ammonium dodecyl ether sulfate 35.00
Ammonium lauryl sulfate 15.00
Glycol distearate 1.00
Dimethyl silscone 1.00
Spermol 0.50
Coconut oleoyl amine MEA 3.00
ZPT 1.00
Guar beans hydroxypropyl-trimethyl ammonium chloride 0.20
Hydrogenated polydecene 1.00
Polyquaternary ammonium salt 10 0.10
PEG 7m 0.50
Trimethylolpropane tris is sad/tri-decanoins 1.00
Antiseptic In right amount
Essence 0.30
E 104，E 110，E 132 0.02
According to formula of the present invention (I) or formula (II) compound, such as particularly Resina garciniae amide 0.01
Combination all the components also fiercely mixes, until obtain homogeneous solution.Finally add water under slow stirring, and wait for, until lather collapse.
Embodiment 3: conditioner shampoo
INCI nomenclature % by weight
Water Be added into 100
Sodium lauryl tri(oxyethyl) sulfate 25.00
Cocamido propyl betaine 5.00
Sodium chloride 2.50
Glycol distearate 1.00
Glycerol 2.00
Dimethyl silscone 0.50
Essence 0.50
Cocos nucifera oil-glucoside 3.00
Carbomer 0.10
Arginine 0.05
Olein 0.05
Tristerin 1.00
Guar beans hydroxypropyl-trimethyl ammonium chloride 0.10
Panthenol 1.00
EDETATE SODIUM 0.05
Antiseptic In right amount
Hydrolysis of keratin 0.10
Citric acid/sodium hydroxide In right amount
According to formula of the present invention (I) or formula (II) compound, such as particularly Resina garciniae amide 0.005
E 102, E 110, FD&C is blue 0.01
Combination all the components also fiercely mixes, until obtain homogeneous solution.Finally add water under slow stirring, and wait for, until lather collapse.Then thickening agent (such as sodium chloride) is added carefully.
Embodiment 4: containing the shampoo of plant extract
INCI nomenclature % by weight
Water Be added into 100
Sodium lauryl tri(oxyethyl) sulfate 25.00
Dodecyl Polyglucosides 10.00
Cocamido propyl betaine 5.00
Propylene glycol 2.0
Essence 1.25
Sodium citrate 0.25
Sodium benzoate 0.20
Panthenol 1.00
Sodium formate 0.20
Polyquaternium-10 0.20
Hydroxypropyl guar bean hydroxypropyl-trimethyl ammonium chloride 0.05
Cremophor ELP 1.00
Sea salt (Maris sal) 1.25
Polysorbate20 1.00
Tocopherol acetate ester 0.20
Prunus armeniaca (Apricot) fruit extract 0.20
Echinacea purpurea extract 0.05
Retinyl palmitate 0.05
Tocopherol 0.05
Linoleic acid 0.20
Antiseptic 1.00
According to formula of the present invention (I) or formula (II) compound, such as particularly Resina garciniae amide 0.01
CI 77891 0.02
Combination all the components also fiercely mixes, until obtain homogeneous solution.Finally add water under slow stirring, and wait for, until lather collapse.
Embodiment 5: glittering shampoo
INCI nomenclature % by weight
Water Be added into 100
Sodium lauryl tri(oxyethyl) sulfate 15.00
Cocos nucifera oil both sexes oxalic acid disodium 15.00
Sodium chloride 2.00
Glycol distearate 1.00
Cocamidopropyl PYL betanin 2.00
The wheat protein of Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl base hydrolysis 1.00
PEG-12 dimethyl silscone 1.00
Guar beans hydroxypropyl-trimethyl ammonium chloride 0.05
The wheat protein of hydrolysis 0.20
Laureth-4 1.00
Coconut oil PEG-7 glyceride 2.00
Castor oil hydrogenated 1.00
Laureth-2 0.50
PEG-55 propylene glycol oleate 2.00
Propylene glycol 2.00
Muscovitum 0.20
Citric acid 0.01
Essence 1.00
E 110，E 104，E 122 0.05
According to formula of the present invention (I) or formula (II) compound, such as particularly Resina garciniae amide 0.05
Combination all the components also fiercely mixes, until obtain homogeneous solution.Add water under last slowly stirring, and wait for, until lather collapse.Then thickening agent (such as sodium chloride) is added carefully.
Embodiment 6: for the hydration shampoo of color protection
Add all the components in part 1, fiercely mix, until obtain homogeneous solution.Then, add water under slowly stirring, wait for, until lather collapse.Then thickening agent is added carefully, such as sodium chloride or Crothix LVR.
Embodiment 7: super glittering vigor hair cream
Under moderate agitation, part 1 and part 2 are heated to 65 DEG C respectively.When it has same temperature, under agitation part 2 is joined in part 1.Make it be cooled to 40 DEG C, add part 3 under agitation, homogenizing.Be cooled to ambient temperature.
Embodiment 8: hair repair process
Part A is heated to 70 DEG C.Under stirring, part A to be added in part B and homogenizing.Under medium stirring, mixture to be added in part C and homogenizing, and to make it cool.
Embodiment 9: color cream
Part A is heated to 70 DEG C.Under stirring, part A to be added in part B and homogenizing.Part C is added under stirring.
Embodiment 10: the sliding hair mixture of silk
Respectively part A and part B is heated to 70 DEG C.Part A to be added in part B and homogenizing.Stir lower cooling.
Embodiment 11: glossy honorable wetting agent
Respectively part A and part B is heated to 70 DEG C.Part A to be added in part B and homogenizing.Part C is added under stirring.
Embodiment 12: high light sizing cream
Respectively part A and part B is heated to 70 DEG C.Part A to be added in part B and homogenizing.Part C is added under stirring.
Embodiment 13: hair Gel mile
Add all the components of part 1, fiercely mix, until obtain homogenizing Gel mile.
Embodiment 14: hair Gel mile
Add all the components of part 1, fiercely mix, until obtain homogenizing Gel mile.
Embodiment 15: hair Gel mile
Add all the components of part 1, fiercely mix, until obtain homogenizing Gel mile.
Embodiment 16: bath oil
The all the components of built-up section 1, fiercely mixes, until obtain homogeneous solution.
Embodiment 17: semipermanent hair colorant preparation
Part 1 and part 2 are heated to 70 DEG C.Under stirring, part 2 is added in part 1.Then part 3 is added.
Embodiment 18: permanent hair colorant preparation
INCI nomenclature % by weight
A Cetearyl alcohol 9.00
Cetearyl alcohol sodium sulfate 3.00
Tristerin 2.50
Laureth-2 2.00
Stearmide MEA-stearate 0.75
PEG-5 coconut oleoyl amine 0.50
Oleic acid 0.50
Hair dye 0.30
B Water Be added into 100
Ammonium sulfate 2.00
Sodium sulfite 0.50
EDETATE SODIUM 0.05
According to formula of the present invention (I) or formula (II) compound, such as particularly 0.1
Resina garciniae amide
Ascorbic acid 0.50
Ammonium hydroxide 2.50
Part II
INCI nomenclature % by weight
A Cetearyl alcohol 6.00
B Water Ad 100
Hydrogen peroxide 9.00
Sodium lauryl sulphate 3.00
Sodium hydrogen phosphate 0.15
Phosphoric acid pH 2.0
By the A phase of part I and B heat phase to 70 DEG C.Under stirring, A is added in B phase.Be 11.2 by pH regulator.
Respectively by the A phase of part II and B heat phase to 70 DEG C.Under stirring, A is added in B phase.Regulate pH.
Use front built-up section I and II.
Embodiment 19: medicated shampoo
part I
part II
INCI nomenclature % by weight
A Sodium lauryl tri(oxyethyl) sulfate 44.50
Ethyl hydroxybenzoate 0.20
Will according to formula of the present invention (I) or formula (II) compound (particularly Resina garciniae amide) water-soluble, add methylcellulose and stir, until dissolve; Ethyl hydroxybenzoate is mixed with sodium lauryl tri(oxyethyl) sulfate.
Mixing portion 1 and part 2
Embodiment 20: clean shampoo
Add part 1) and part 2) in all the components, fiercely mix, until obtain homogeneous solution.Then, add water under slowly stirring, wait for, until lather collapse.Finally, add thickening agent carefully, such as sodium chloride or Crothix LVR.
Embodiment 21: hydration shampoo (hydrating shampoo)
Add all the components, fiercely mix, until obtain homogeneous solution.Then, add water under slowly stirring, wait for, until lather collapse.Add thickening agent carefully, such as sodium chloride or CrothixLVR.

Claims (2)

1. the purposes of cosmetic composition in the cosmetics for the preparation of reparation and/or enhancing hair growth of the compound of contained (II) or the salt of described compound,
Formula (II):
Wherein R1 and R2 is hydrogen (H) all independently.
2. purposes as claimed in claim 1, wherein, described compositions comprises at least one further and is selected from extra active substance in the group be made up of antioxidant, opacifier, coloring agent and bioactivator.
CN201180018951.6A 2010-04-12 2011-04-12 Hair care composition containing gamlogic acid, Resina garciniae acid esters or Resina garciniae amide Expired - Fee Related CN102844017B (en)

Applications Claiming Priority (3)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
EP10159608 2010-04-12
EP10159608.8 2010-04-12
PCT/EP2011/055724 WO2011128339A1 (en) 2010-04-12 2011-04-12 Hair treatment composition containing gambogic acid, ester or amide

Publications (2)

Publication Number Publication Date
CN102844017A CN102844017A (en) 2012-12-26
CN102844017B true CN102844017B (en) 2015-10-21

Family

ID=44135931

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
CN201180018951.6A Expired - Fee Related CN102844017B (en) 2010-04-12 2011-04-12 Hair care composition containing gamlogic acid, Resina garciniae acid esters or Resina garciniae amide

Country Status (4)

Country Link
US (1) US9445979B2 (en)
EP (1) EP2558055B1 (en)
CN (1) CN102844017B (en)
WO (1) WO2011128339A1 (en)

Families Citing this family (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN102603767A (en) * 2012-03-07 2012-07-25 广州牌牌生物科技有限公司 Gambogic acid separating and purifying production process
CN112174978B (en) * 2020-09-29 2022-05-20 中国药科大学 A garcinolic acid nanometer preparation based on hydrophobic prodrug for improving long circulation
WO2023274774A1 (en) * 2021-07-01 2023-01-05 Unilever Ip Holdings B.V. Hair care composition

Citations (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
FR2716374A1 (en) * 1994-02-18 1995-08-25 Sederma Sa Extracts of Garcinia and Hibiscus have cosmetic and dermatological use
CN1406121A (en) * 2000-01-24 2003-03-26 哈尔曼·赖默 Diesters or polyesters of naphthalene dicarboxylic acid for hair gloss and hair color stabilization
CN1927862A (en) * 2006-07-06 2007-03-14 中国药科大学 Garcinia acid derivatives, preparation method and application thereof in pharmacy
CN101460139A (en) * 2006-06-07 2009-06-17 花王株式会社 One-pack type hair dye composition

Family Cites Families (20)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
LU86703A1 (en) 1986-12-08 1988-07-14 Oreal PHOTOSTABLE COSMETIC COMPOSITION CONTAINING A UV-A FILTER AND A UV-B FILTER, ITS USE FOR PROTECTING THE SKIN AGAINST UV RAYS AND A METHOD OF STABILIZING THE UV-A FILTER WITH THE UV-B FILTER
FR2636338B1 (en) 1988-09-09 1990-11-23 Rhone Poulenc Chimie DIORGANOPOLYSILOXANE WITH BENZALMALONATE FUNCTION
FR2658075B1 (en) 1990-02-14 1992-05-07 Oreal PHOTOSTABLE FILTERING COSMETIC COMPOSITION CONTAINING A UV-A FILTER AND A BETA, BETA-DIPHENYLACRYLATE OR ALPHA-CYANO-BETA, BETA-DIPHENYLACRYLATE.
GB9110123D0 (en) 1991-05-10 1991-07-03 Dow Corning Organosilicon compounds their preparation and use
EP0709080B1 (en) 1994-10-14 2002-01-30 F. Hoffmann-La Roche Ag Photostable cosmetic light screening compositions
FR2739281B1 (en) 1995-09-29 1997-10-31 Oreal TOPICAL COMPOSITION CONTAINING A SILICONE GRAFT POLYMER AND AN AMINOUS SILICONE AND / OR A SILICONE GUM OR RESIN
JPH09143036A (en) * 1995-11-21 1997-06-03 Mitsui Toatsu Chem Inc Hairdressing
US6033649A (en) 1995-12-18 2000-03-07 Roche Vitamins Inc. Light screening agents
US6069170A (en) 1997-08-05 2000-05-30 Roche Vitamins Inc. Light screening compounds and compositions
AU8670898A (en) 1998-07-29 2000-02-21 Procter & Gamble Company, The Hair care composition comprising antioxidants
US6143286A (en) 1998-08-05 2000-11-07 Revlon Consumer Products Corporation Method for improving the fade resistance of hair and related compositions
DE19917906A1 (en) 1999-04-20 2000-10-26 Basf Ag Use of amino-substituted hydroxybenzophenones as photostable UV filters in cosmetic and pharmaceutical preparations
GB9917453D0 (en) 1999-07-23 1999-09-29 Unilever Plc Method of hair treatment using organic amino compounds
GB0202853D0 (en) 2002-02-07 2002-03-27 Dow Corning Encapsulation process and encapsulated compositions
WO2005060663A2 (en) * 2003-12-18 2005-07-07 Cytovia, Inc. Derivatives of gambogic acid and analogs as activators of caspases and inducers of apoptosis
CN1918126B (en) 2004-02-13 2010-07-21 Dsmip资产公司 Ionic UV-A sunscreens and compositions containing them
TWI282280B (en) * 2004-05-21 2007-06-11 Taiwan Sunpan Biotechnology De Compounds isolated from gamboge resin having activity in inhibiting the growth of tumor/cancer cells and pharmaceutical compositions comprising the same
DE102004042848A1 (en) 2004-09-04 2006-03-09 Wella Ag Hair treatment composition containing a polymer combination
JP2007106674A (en) * 2005-10-11 2007-04-26 Munekazu Iinuma Mangosteen preparation
WO2008148008A1 (en) * 2007-05-23 2008-12-04 Emory University High throughput bioassay for identifying selective trka receptor agonists, and gambogic amide, a selective trka agonist with neuroprotective activity

Patent Citations (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
FR2716374A1 (en) * 1994-02-18 1995-08-25 Sederma Sa Extracts of Garcinia and Hibiscus have cosmetic and dermatological use
CN1406121A (en) * 2000-01-24 2003-03-26 哈尔曼·赖默 Diesters or polyesters of naphthalene dicarboxylic acid for hair gloss and hair color stabilization
CN101460139A (en) * 2006-06-07 2009-06-17 花王株式会社 One-pack type hair dye composition
CN1927862A (en) * 2006-07-06 2007-03-14 中国药科大学 Garcinia acid derivatives, preparation method and application thereof in pharmacy

Non-Patent Citations (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Title
Anti-inflammatory, analgesic and antipyretic activities of the extract of gamboge from Garcinia hanburyi Hook f.;Ampai Panthong et al.;《Journal of ethnopharmacology》;20070130;第111卷;第335-340页，尤其是第336页第2.2-2.3节 *
Cytotoxic xanthones from Garcinia hanburyi;JUN ASANO et al.;《Phytochemistry》;19961231;第41卷(第3期);第815-820页，尤其是第815页左栏第1段 *

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
WO2011128339A1 (en) 2011-10-20
EP2558055B1 (en) 2016-08-17
EP2558055A1 (en) 2013-02-20
US9445979B2 (en) 2016-09-20
US20130195777A1 (en) 2013-08-01
CN102844017A (en) 2012-12-26

Similar Documents

Publication Publication Date Title
CN103002866B (en) Flos Chrysanthemi or the derivant topical use in hair-care
CN101031277B (en) Uses of photo-stable cosmetic or dermatological compositions
ES2677698T3 (en) Peptides derived from the WNT family and uses of these
KR102327760B1 (en) Use of an edelweiss extract in hair care for the prevention of hair graying
TWI598110B (en) Methods of lightening the skin
CN101896157B (en) Self-tanning effects
CN105085611A (en) Niacin-peptide having skin whitening activity and use for same
CN102355885A (en) Use of tripeptides
CN102844017B (en) Hair care composition containing gamlogic acid, Resina garciniae acid esters or Resina garciniae amide
CN106083996B (en) Nutgall acyl peptide derivant and anti-aging Dermatologic preparation composition containing the derivative
CN102245622B (en) Novel aryl C-xyloside compounds, and cosmetic use
JP2020132577A (en) Hair treatment composition
CN101426481B (en) Use of opioid receptor antagonists
KR101367306B1 (en) Whitening or moisturizing cosmetic composition comprising tetradecanol extracted from dendropanax morbifera lev
ES2573713T3 (en) Compositions comprising Lilium candidum extracts and their use
TW201304820A (en) Compositions comprising Lilium Candidum extracts and uses thereof
CN104105473B (en) Skin lightening compositions
EP3397238B1 (en) Plant lipid composition for promoting hair growth, method for promoting hair growth and use of said plant lipids
EP2555745B1 (en) Use of dihydrodehydrodiisoeugenol and preparations comprising dihydrodehydrodiisoeugenol
US9439845B2 (en) Glycyrrhetinimidyl hydroxyproline alkyl esters and protected derivatives thereof
KR20220026103A (en) Composition for improving scalp and hair condition comprising Hempseed extract and method for preparing the same
US20180185256A1 (en) Moisturizer and cosmetic including the same
WO2011121093A1 (en) Use of organic compounds in hair care
CA3082262A1 (en) Peptides for increasing melanin in melanocytes
AU2007294011A1 (en) Bioquinones for stimulating keratin synthesis

Legal Events

Date Code Title Description
C06 Publication
PB01 Publication
C10 Entry into substantive examination
SE01 Entry into force of request for substantive examination
C14 Grant of patent or utility model
GR01 Patent grant
CF01 Termination of patent right due to non-payment of annual fee

Granted publication date: 20151021

CF01 Termination of patent right due to non-payment of annual fee