CN101849899A - Chinese medicinal compound extract and cosmetics comprising same as active ingredient - Google Patents

Chinese medicinal compound extract and cosmetics comprising same as active ingredient Download PDF

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Publication number
CN101849899A
CN101849899A CN200910260069A CN200910260069A CN101849899A CN 101849899 A CN101849899 A CN 101849899A CN 200910260069 A CN200910260069 A CN 200910260069A CN 200910260069 A CN200910260069 A CN 200910260069A CN 101849899 A CN101849899 A CN 101849899A
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whitening
skin
sources
extract
chinese medicine
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CN101849899B (en
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周洁
刘勇
赵保胜
俞鹏勇
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Shanghai rich Cosmetics Co., Ltd.
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SHANGHAI YUANSHANGCAO COSMETIC CO Ltd
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Abstract

The invention relates to a novel Chinese medicinal compound 'ten sources whitening formula' extract and cosmetics comprising the same as an active ingredient. The 'ten sources whitening formula' comprises 11 kinds of Chinese medicaments of white gourd seeds, tribulus terrestris, the root bark of white mulberry, sandalwood, feverfew, gingko, radix paeoniae alba, rhizoma bletillae, chinaroot greenbrier rhizome, bighead atractylodes rhizome and raw liquorice. The 'ten sources whitening formula' extract has the effects of antioxidation and preventing melanin from generating and can be used for preparing facial whitening cleanser, whitening skin-care water, whitening skin-care lotion, whitening skin-care cream, whitening skin-care essence, whitening bath foam and whitening hand cream. The Chinese medicinal compound extract has the advantages of less adverse reaction and high safety to skin. The cosmetics comprising the 'ten sources whitening formula' have skin whitening and anti-aging effects.

Description

A kind of Chinese medicine compound extract and contain the cosmetics of described active component
Technical field
The present invention relates to a kind of Chinese medicine extraction complex---" ten sources side " in vain and contain described " ten sources are the side in vain " cosmetics as active component
Background technology
The color of human skin is subjected to the influence of pigment system, comprising the red hemoglobin in the blood vessel, the yellow carotenoid of subcutaneous fat and the melanic influence of major decision skin color, the content of these pigments and distribution situation are the principal elements of decision skin color.Melanin content is bigger in the dark skin, and melanin granule is also bigger, and is scattered in whole epidermis separately, and melanin content is low in the white skin, and melanin granule is less rounded, and tends to flock together.Except structural intrinsic factor, environment also can be influential to the colour of skin of skin, as be exposed to daylight or be subjected to hormonal action can increase the precipitation of pigment.Chinese skin mostly belongs to yellow race's type, and between black and white, the aesthetic conceptions of Chinese women are promptly with Bai Weimei since ancient times, and the saying of " white hide hundred ugly " is just arranged.Consumer makes whitening and speckle dispelling class cosmetics become one of major trend of China and even Asia cosmetics to the pursuit of skin whitening just.The skin whitening functional component has: the chemical compound of (1) hydrargyrum; (2) hydroquinone; (3) hydroquinone; (4) kojic acid; (5) arbutin; (6) VC and derivant; (7) natural plant extracts.Wherein 1~3 because its toxicity only can be used in barrier cream, can not use in cosmetics.(4) and (5) more and more along with report is queried in its safety, the use in cosmetics is fewer and feweri, the poor stability of VC and derivant has also limited its utilization.Natural plant extracts then is one of trend of whitening function composition development.Chinese medicine is one of Sinitic treasure-house, and some ancient prescriptions wherein are proved to be safely and effectively through the checking of practice in 1,100.
White side, ten sources is changed by " Imperial drug institution side " contained " seven white cream " carries Fang Zhonghan: Cortex Mori, Fructus Benincasae seed, Fructus Atriplicis Sibiricae, Lignum Santali Albi, Flos Chrysanthemi, Semen Ginkgo, the Radix Paeoniae Alba, Pseudobulbus Bletillae (Rhizoma Bletillae), Poria, the Rhizoma Atractylodis Macrocephalae and Radix Glycyrrhizae; And the special extraction process of process makes.
Composition principle: the Fructus Benincasae seed has another name called Semen Benincasae, function pool skin, it " makes us Yue Ze; good color " " warp on the Sheng Nong's herbal classic " cloud, the spices of " the sick face medicine the 9th of the Essential Recipes for Emergent Use Worth A Thousand Gold seven apertures " loose, wash one's face in the external sides such as medicine, Nepheritum face cream, face fat, Semen Benincasae is all arranged, wash one's face with this product in " Imperial drug institution side " and brighten, so this side selects this to make monarch drug.The Lignum Santali Albi regulating air activity, the QI and blood that flows, skin and complexion improving brightens.Qing Dynasty's " Xu Mingyi Lei roll up ten hexahedro " record is with the case of the smoked face beauty treatment of Lignum Santali Albi burning smoke: " Sun Zhao controls Fan building Liu hotel owner all black of having one's face covered with in 3rd, one ... what grandson examined says, and non-disease is also smoked by foul smell, and oxious gas is raiseeed in face diffusing.... the lavatory foul smell is audible not, bears for a good while lavatory down patiently, and this disease will be arranged tomorrow then.Grandson says: the no mistake in treatment perfume (or spice) of deodorizing, there is the near perfume (or spice) of selling of southern people in my family, available Shen wingceltis two fragrant each one or two, broken thumb burns in stove, with smoked thin,tough silk quilt, lid is fixed in the peace account, does not make fragrance loose, and can sit up straight fragrant limit, dies in peace and sits quietly, wait fragrance and loose and can enter an item of expenditure in the accounts, and draws the mirror photograph tomorrow.The Liu Yiqi speech, the complexion gradual change, the ten days is as before ".Bear foul smell patiently, QI and blood is obstructed, so the skin blackening sucks Lignum Santali Albi smog, and fluence venting QI-blood, unobstructed vessel, complexion amelioration then, appearance can be taken on a new look.If with Lignum Santali Albi external face, often smell its fragrance, help the Yue Ze of white skin appearance naturally.Semen Ginkgo gives birth to product external curing acne.Pseudobulbus Bletillae (Rhizoma Bletillae) matter is sticking, and " Bencao Congxin " calls it " remove Shao-bleb on the face, be coated with hand and foot from chapping, make us flesh sliding ", and meaning removes " Shao-, dark complexion gas ", is to know that the Pseudobulbus Bletillae (Rhizoma Bletillae) external can moisten the white muscle skin.Lignum Santali Albi, Semen Ginkgo, Pseudobulbus Bletillae (Rhizoma Bletillae) all can be assisted the monarch drug skin whitening, as ministerial drug.The Poria promoting diuresis to eliminate damp pathogen, kidney master water, color of the kidney being black, this product is removed the kidney heresy can prevent the treating disorders in muscles and skin blackening, and external can be brightened by skin Caring, and " the sick face medicine the 9th of the Essential Recipes for Emergent Use Worth A Thousand Gold seven apertures " is in harmonious proportion external with Mel simply with this, treatment face Shao-.Color of the spleen being yellow, the Rhizoma Atractylodis Macrocephalae is gone into spleen channel, removes damp, and its spleen invigorating dehumidifies, and is of value to preventing the skin jaundice, and also clean effect medicine soaks external with vinegar, can the speckle dispelling skin care.Color of the liver being blue, the Radix Paeoniae Alba, Fructus Atriplicis Sibiricae, Flos Chrysanthemi suppressing the hyperactive liver press down sun, can prevent the skin paleness, and the external defect of dispelling is whitened.Radix Paeoniae Alba acid is cold, and tonifying YIN nourishes blood, and the living then asthenic fire of cloudy blood is fallen, and the heart is that fire is dirty, and its red complexion so asthenic fire falls in this product, can avoid skin to turn red.Cortex Mori clearing away heat and promoting diuresis detumescence for oral administration, ancients often use it as stitching thread, and need not to take out stitches, and know the usefulness that it has the health care skin, and this side uses this, has both got the power of its heat clearing away, prevents skin generation furuncle, and the merit of getting its skin and complexion improving again prevents that furuncle from leaving over cicatrix.Poria, the Rhizoma Atractylodis Macrocephalae, the Radix Paeoniae Alba, Fructus Atriplicis Sibiricae, Flos Chrysanthemi, Cortex Mori are adjuvant drug altogether.The Radix Glycyrrhizae mediation property of medicine is messenger drug.Quan Fangshi kind " BAIYAO " external, white with himself, white man's skin is so the merit that has Shao-to brighten can be used as the product of whitening for a special purpose.
The compatibility characteristic: (1) BAIYAO white muscle skin, and he becomes can to prevent skin colour, the control sores ulceration of skin makes skin not only in vain but also health.(2) the five internal organs are held concurrently and are transferred, and the reason lung qi is main.Semen Benincasae, Pseudobulbus Bletillae (Rhizoma Bletillae), Lignum Santali Albi, Cortex Mori, Flos Chrysanthemi, Semen Ginkgo etc. all walk lung meridian, and lung qi is logical to be transferred, mechanism of qi and profit, and skin is strong white.
Balance theory: local and whole and accent.The reason lung qi is main, and it is auxilliary transferring the five internal organs, the five internal organs and accent, and it is suitable to each get institute, and gas is from suitable, and sick peace is always.
Therefore, one of the present invention themes as, a kind of by comprising the Fructus Benincasae seed, Fructus Atriplicis Sibiricae, and Cortex Mori, Lignum Santali Albi, Flos Chrysanthemi, Semen Ginkgo, the Radix Paeoniae Alba, Pseudobulbus Bletillae (Rhizoma Bletillae), Poria, the Rhizoma Atractylodis Macrocephalae and Radix Glycyrrhizae are the Chinese herbal medicine extracting complex of raw material.
An object of the present invention is to provide the safe active ingredient of from specific Chinese herbal medicine, extracting as the Chinese medicine extraction complex with special process, the effect of described complex Pear Power keratin substances, therefore another object of the present invention provides the cosmetics that contain aforementioned Chinese medicine extraction complex, and this cosmetics Pear Power keratin is the effect of skin particularly.Another one theme of the present invention comprises also that the Chinese medicine extraction complex is whitened in preparation, the application in the cosmetics.
Therefore the present invention also comprises a kind of cosmetic composition, it is characterized in that containing aforesaid Chinese medicine extraction complex, and its Chinese medicine extraction complex is 1-20%, based on the gross weight of cosmetic composition.
According to the use position of cosmetics and the different requirements of function, the application's the cosmetic composition that contains the Chinese medicine extraction complex can be the form of facial milk cleanser, surfactant, facial treatment milk, protective skin cream, facial treatment essence liquid, hand cream, bath gel.According to the different demands of outward appearance, cosmetic composition of the present invention can be: forms such as cream frost, emulsion, water preparation, lotion, gel.
Therefore cosmetic composition of the present invention contains the beneficiating ingredient that can contain other, described beneficiating ingredient is selected from: antioxidant, antiseptic, aromatic, nertralizer, emollient, thickening agent, emulsifying agent, surfactant, wetting agent, vitamin and screening agent, and their mixture.
Summary of the invention
The present invention implements by following design in order to obtain the Chinese herbal medicine extracting complex of above-mentioned purpose Pear Power function:
Chinese herbal medicine extracting complex of the present invention is by comprising the Fructus Benincasae seed, Fructus Atriplicis Sibiricae, Cortex Mori, Lignum Santali Albi, Flos Chrysanthemi, Semen Ginkgo, the Radix Paeoniae Alba, Pseudobulbus Bletillae (Rhizoma Bletillae), the Rhizoma Atractylodis Macrocephalae, Poria, the Chinese herbal medicine of Radix Glycyrrhizae is prepared from, and each composition percentage by weight is 21.09-25.78%, 4.22-5.16%, 8.44-10.03%, 4.22-5.16%, 4.22-5.16%, 8.44-10.03%, 8.44-10.03%, 4.22-5.16%, 14.06-17.19%, 8.44-10.03%, 4.22-5.16%.
According to the material characteristics of above-mentioned Chinese medicine itself and the effect of this Chinese medicine complex, Chinese medicine extraction complex of the present invention obtains by specific preparation method:
1, Lignum Santali Albi and the Rhizoma Atractylodis Macrocephalae are pulverized after, be placed in the volatile oil extractor, the water that adds 5-15 times of weight is put and slowly is heated to boiling in the electric jacket, keeps 5 hours, stops heating and places a moment, collection volatile oil (1).
2, Poria and Fructus Benincasae seed are pulverized, with the water extraction of 5-15 times of weight three times, for the first time with 2-4 hour, 1.5-3 hour for the second time, 1 hour for the third time, merge extractive liquid, filters behind sample on the D101 macroporous resin, uses the 30-70wt% ethanol elution, merge eluent, 60-80 ℃ of following vacuum drying, evaporate to dryness obtains effective ingredient (2).
3, Cortex Mori, the Radix Paeoniae Alba, Pseudobulbus Bletillae (Rhizoma Bletillae), Fructus Atriplicis Sibiricae, Flos Chrysanthemi, Semen Ginkgo, Radix Glycyrrhizae are pulverized, and use 50-90wt% ethanol extraction three times.Solvent with 7-15 times of weight extracted 2-4 hour for the first time, and the solvent with 7-15 times of weight extracted 1.5-3 hour for the second time, and the solvent with 7-15 times of weight extracted 1-2 hour for the third time.Merge extractive liquid, reclaims ethanol, concentrates, filtration, aqueous dispersion, behind D101 macroporous resin water eluting, collects the 15-70wt% ethanol elution, and 60-80 ℃ of following vacuum drying, evaporate to dryness obtain active ingredient (3).
4, get an amount of volatile oil (1), active ingredient (2) and effective ingredient (3), be dissolved in (propylene glycol: water=1: 7-5: 7 (weight ratios)) in the aqueous solution of propylene glycol in 1: 50~1: 300 ratio (by weight), obtain the brown translucent liquid that is clear to, Chinese medicine compound promptly of the present invention " ten sources are the side in vain " extract.
The pH value scope of Chinese medicine compound of the present invention " ten sources are the side in vain " extract: 4.5-6.5, through the thin layer chromatography test, main component has: volatile oil, flavone, polysaccharide, glycoside.
Useful composition is described:
One. safety
Because active component of the present invention is to add among the cosmetics that directly are applied in skin, and is how most important to the zest of skin.Holder Shanghai Institute of Pharmaceutical Industry of special commission has implemented repeatedly the skin irritation test.
I, material and object
Material: Chinese medicine compound " ten sources are the side in vain " extract stock solution
Object: Cavia porcellus (female/hero), body weight 250g~300g
Occupancy permit number: SYXK (Shanghai) 2004-0015
Production licence number: SCXK (Shanghai) 2004-0007
Experimental condition: laboratory temperature: 20~24 ℃, relative humidity 60~70%
II, method
" cosmetics health standard " (2007) with reference to the promulgation of Ministry of Public Health surveillance authority
III, result
Report sees Fig. 2 for details, and the result shows the test through 14 days, and the irritant reaction integration is 0, shows that the Chinese herbal medicine extracting complex is non-stimulated to skin.
Two. effectiveness
In order to verify the effect of Chinese medicine compound of the present invention " ten sources are the side in vain " extract Pear Power skin, implemented following experiment:
1. suppress the experiment of network propylhomoserin enzymatic activity:
Materials and methods
1.1 experiment material and equipment
Chinese medicine compound " ten sources are the side in vain " extract (self-control); PH=6.8 phosphate buffer solution, sodium hydroxide (Chemical Reagent Co., Ltd., Sinopharm Group); Tryrosinase, Tyrosinase EC 1.14.18.19 (Sigma); L-DOPA (AcrosOrganics); AB204-E electronic analytical balance (METTLE company); UV-1601 ultraviolet spectrophotometer day island proper Tianjin company) etc.
1.2 Chinese medicine compound " ten sources are the side in vain " extract is to the inhibitory action of tryrosinase
Tyrosine changes in the melanic process, the catalytic action of tryrosinase occurs in mainly that tyrosine is converted into DOPA and DOPA changes in the process of DOPA quinone, the DOPA quinone is a kind of coloring matter, at 475nm absorption is arranged, and can utilize spectrophotometric determination content.This experiment L-DOPA is a substrate, measures the white tyrosinase inhibitory activity in ten sources.
The composition of table 1 testing sample (ml)
Medicine The A group The B group The C group The D group
Ten sources are white ? ? ??1 ??1
PBS solution (PH=6.8) ??2 ??3 ??1 ??2
0.15% DOPA solution ??1 ??1 ??1 ??1
The tryrosinase solution of 300u/ml ??1 ? ??1 ?
Total amount ??4 ??4 ??4 ??4
According to shown in the table 1, accurately draw the DOPA solution of the white extracting solution in ten sources, PBS (pH=6.8) solution and 0.15%, fully mix homogeneously, after 10min is hatched in 30 ℃ of water-baths, add the tryrosinase solution of 300u/ml, continue to hatch 10min, measure its light absorption value at 475nm immediately.
The computing formula of tyrosinase inhibition rate (I) is as follows:
I=[(A-B)-(C-D)]/[A-B]×100%
A: do not add the absorbance A (A) that the enzyme-added mixed liquor of Chinese medicine sample is surveyed;
B: do not add the absorbance A (B) that the also not enzyme-added mixed liquor of Chinese medicine sample is surveyed;
C: add the absorbance A (C) that the mixed liquor of Chinese medicine sample and enzyme is surveyed;
D: add the Chinese medicine sample and absorbance A (D) that not enzyme-added mixed liquor is surveyed.
Result and discussion
Chinese medicine compound " ten sources are the side in vain " extract sample is diluted to 5%, 10%, 15%, 20%, 25% respectively with PBS, detects each concentration restraint of tyrosinase activity.The results are shown in Figure 3.
As can be seen from Figure 3 Chinese medicine compound " ten sources side " in vain extract concentrations is in 5-20%, the active growth that is directly proportional with dosage of the white sample restraint of tyrosinase in ten sources, and the suppression ratio curve is y=102.01x+42.245, R2=0.9908.When the white concentration in ten sources reached 20%, tyrosinase inhibition rate can reach 62.2%.
2. remove the experiment of free radical ability:
1. materials and methods
1.1 experiment material and instrument
Chinese medicine compound " ten sources are the side in vain " extract (self-control); 95% ethanol (Chemical Reagent Co., Ltd., Sinopharm Group); DPPH (Tokyo changes into Co., Ltd., analytical pure); AB204-E electronic analytical balance (METTLE company); UV-1601 ultraviolet spectrophotometer (day island proper Tianjin company).
1.2 Chinese medicine compound " ten sources are the side in vain " extract is to the scavenging action of DPPH
It is to present darkviolet according to DPPH in dehydrated alcohol and ethanol-water system that the spectrophotometric of DPPH is sent out measuring principle, under 517nm and 525nm absorption maximum is arranged respectively.Free radical scavenger can make purple retreat gradually, determines the content of DPPH according to the variation of absorbance, and the reaction free radical scavenger is to the removing ability of DPPH.
Precision takes by weighing DPPH 3.00mg, and the dissolve with ethanol with 95% also is settled to 100mL, and the concentration of DPPH is 30mg/L, gets the 4mLDPPH standard solution, is placed in the test tube, adds the 1mL extract solution, behind the placement 30min, measures absorbance A at 517nm.Measure the DPPH clearance rate according to following formula:
The clearance rate of DPPH=[1-(Ai-Aj)/Ac] * 100%
Ai: extracting solution+4mLDPPH solution absorbency
The alcoholic acid absorbance of Aj: extracting solution+4mL95%
Ac:1mL95% ethanol+4mLDPPH solution absorbency
Result and discussion
DPPH is removed ability represent that with clearance rate clearance rate is high more, illustrate that oxidation resistance is also just strong more.Chinese medicine compound " ten sources are the side in vain " extract sample is diluted to 5%, 10%, 15%, 20%, 25% respectively with 95% ethanol, detects each concentration and remove the DPPH ability.The results are shown in Figure 4.
As can be seen from Figure 4, Chinese medicine compound " ten sources are the side in vain " extract all has scavenging action to DPPH, and increases gradually with concentration increase clearance rate, and concentration tends towards stability after reaching 15%, and clearance rate reaches 85%.
3. suppress the experiment of the melanoma speed of growth:
1. material and method
1.1 cell strain and source
The strain of people A375 melanoma cells is provided by Beijing consonance cell resource center.
1.2 main agents and instrument
Chinese medicine compound " ten sources are the side in vain " extract (self-control); (Methyl ThiazolylTetrazolium MTT) is U.S. Biomol company product to methyl thiazolyl tetrazolium; The DMEM high glucose medium is a U.S. GIBCO product, lot number: 1345538; Hyclone is a U.S. GIBCO product, lot number: 619559; Levodopa (L-DOPA), dimethyl sulfoxide (DMSO) (Sigma company); TritonX-100 (Sigma company); BB16 type CO 2Incubator, German Heraeus company; 550 type microplate reader, U.S. Bio-Rad company; 5417C/R type High speed refrigerated centrifuge, German Eppondorf company; The OLYMPUS-CK optical microscope, Japanese OLYMPUS company.
1.3 method
1.3.1 cell inoculation is in the DMEM high glucose medium that contains 10% hyclone under the cultivation aseptic condition of people A375 melanoma cells, 37 ℃, 5%CO 2Cultivate in the incubator; Treat that cell grows to confluent cultures bottle 85% when above, goes down to posterity 1 time with 0.25% trypsinization.
1.3.2 the mensuration of cell proliferation adopts the blue colorimetry (mtt assay) of tetramethyl azo azoles: get the growth conditions good cell, trypsinization, transferring cell concentration is 4 * 10 5Individual/mL, be inoculated in 96 orifice plates, every hole 190 μ l.At 37 ℃, 5%CO 2After cultivating 24h in the incubator, abandoning supernatant, add the white extract in ten sources respectively, every hole 10 μ l, make that its final concentration is respectively 4,2,1,0.5,0.25,0.125,0.063g crude drug/mL, the blank group only adds the equivalent lyase, continues to cultivate 48h, and every hole adds MTT liquid 20 μ l (5mg/mL) and cultivates 4h again; Abandoning supernatant, every hole add about dimethyl sulfoxide (DMSO) 150 μ l vibration 10min, and 570nm wavelength place measures absorbance.Each concentration is established 8 multiple holes.
1.3.3 the determination of activity of tryrosinase
The same cell culture processes and group forming criterion, cell concentration are 1 * 10 5Individual/mL.After cultivating 48h, PBS with 0.01M, pH72 washs 2 times, every hole adds the molten 50 μ l of 1%Triton X-100, put-80 ℃ of frozen 30min rapidly, room temperature thawing subsequently makes cell break back adding 1%L-DOPA solution 10 μ l fully in 37 ℃ of isothermal reaction 2h, measures the A value in microplate reader 490nm wavelength place.Each concentration is established 6 multiple holes, and experiment repeats 3 times and averages.Tyrosinase activity suppression ratio (%)=(the blank group of 1-dosing group A490nm/ A490nm) * 100%.
1.3.4 the mensuration of melanin content
The trophophase cell of taking the logarithm is made single cell suspension, and cell concentration is adjusted to 4 * 10 4/ mL is inoculated in 12 well culture plates, every hole 1.9mL.37 ℃, 5%CO 2After cultivating 24h in the incubator, abandoning supernatant, add Chinese medicine compound " ten sources are the side in vain " extract respectively, every hole 100 μ l, make its final concentration be respectively 4,2,1,0.5,0.25,0.125,0.063g crude drug/mL, the blank group only adds the equivalent lyase, continues to cultivate 48h, abandons supernatant, PBS washing 2 times, 0.25% trypsinization, 5~8min goes into Eppindorf pipe, the centrifugal 10min of 1000rpm with cell harvesting, abandon supernatant, add 1mol/L NaOH (100 μ l) to 37 ℃ of water-bath 1h, add after 400 μ l distilled waters dilute abundant mixing, every hole 100 μ l add in 96 orifice plates and to measure the A value in microplate reader 475nm wavelength place.Each concentration is established 6 multiple holes.
(± s) expression, group difference adopts the t check 1.3.5 the statistical procedures experimental data is with mean+SD.
2. result
2.1 Chinese medicine compound " ten sources are the side in vain " extract is to the influence of A375 cell proliferation
The visible normal control group of microscopically cell growth state is good, and cell quantity is than showed increased under the bed board, and administration group cellular morphology is not whole, and the high dose group cell has obvious fragmentation with dead, and a large amount of cell debriss are arranged in the culture fluid.Along with the reduction of dosage, the cell extent of damage alleviates gradually, and during to 0.125g/mL, cellular morphology and normal control group do not have significant difference (seeing accompanying drawing 5) substantially.
From table 1, Fig. 5 as seen, ten sources are organized when 4~0.5g/mL dosage in vain, and the A375 cell proliferation is had the obvious suppression effect, compare with the blank group, and significance difference justice (P<0.01) is arranged; Along with the reduction of concentration, suppression ratio descends gradually, during 0.25~0.0625g/mL dosage, compares with the blank group, and difference not obvious (P>0.05) demonstrates amount-result relation preferably, and wherein, maximal percentage inhibition is up to 74.29%.
Table 1 Chinese medicine compound " ten sources side " in vain extract to the influence of A375 human melanoma cell cell proliferation (± s, n=8)
? Dosage (g/mL) A375 propagation
The blank group ? ??4.652±1.032
Ten sources are organized in vain ??4 ??1.196±0.164 **
? ??2 ??2.383±0.546 **
? ??1 ??2.910±0.551 **
? ??0.5 ??3.328±0.419 **
? ??0.25 ??4.037±0.508
? ??0.125 ??4.476±0.717
? ??0.063 ??4.607±0.373
Annotate: compare with the blank group, *P<0.01.
2.2 Chinese medicine compound " ten sources are the side in vain " extract is to the influence of A375 cell tyrosinase activity
From table 2, Fig. 6 as seen, extract all has obvious inhibitory action (P<0.05 or P<0.01) to tyrosinase activity to Chinese medicine compound " ten sources are the side in vain " under 4~0.25g crude drug/mL dosage, but amount-result relation is very unobvious; 0.125g crude drug/mL and following dosage fail to demonstrate restraint of tyrosinase active function (P>0.05) preferably.
Table 20 sources in vain to the influence of A375 human melanoma cell tyrosinase activity (± s, n=6)
? Dosage (g/mL) Tyrosinase activity
The blank group ? ??0.190±0.012
Ten sources are organized in vain ??4 ??0.126±0.007 **
? ??2 ??0.131±0.008 **
? ??1 ??0.141±0.007 **
? ??0.5 ??0.135±0.019 **
? ??0.25 ??0.146±0.029
? ??0.125 ??0.181±0.019
? ??0.063 ??0.183±0.029
Annotate: compare with the blank group, *P<0.05, *P<0.01.
Above Chinese medicine compound " ten sources the are the side in vain " extract that experimental results show that has the effect of good restraining network propylhomoserin enzymatic activity and removes the free radical ability significantly, can suppress simultaneously melanocyte propagation, reduce tyrosinase activity, the final melanocyte that reduces synthesizes, and this may be one of mechanism of its Pear Power effect.
For the further effect of checking Chinese medicine compound " ten sources are the side in vain " extract skin whitening, desalination mottle, prepared the whitening skin-protection cream (prescription is seen formulation Example 4) that contains Chinese medicine compound " ten sources are the side in vain " extract and carried out human experimentation:
The whitening skin-protection cream that contains Chinese medicine compound " ten sources side " the in vain extract test report of whitening
Experiment purpose: adopt the variation autonomous method estimated in conjunction with dermal melanin tester Mexameter MX18 routine test of human body back on probation, contain the whitening effect of the skin whitener of Chinese medicine compound " ten sources are the side in vain " extract from two aspect evaluations according to aspects such as the gloss of skin and colors.
The melanin test philosophy: the color of human skin depends primarily on the content of melanin and haemachrome (red pigment) in the human body skin, dermal melanin tester Mexameter MX18 is based on the principle of spectral absorption, determines the content of melanin and haemachrome in the skin by the volume reflection of illumination on human body skin of measuring specific wavelength.The emitter of instrument probe sends rayed that wavelength is respectively 568nm, 660nm and three kinds of wavelength of 880nm at skin surface, and accepter records the light of skin reflex.Because radiative amount is certain, so just can measure by the amount of the light of skin absorbs, thereby measure the content of dermal melanin and haemachrome.Maximum rate between every kind of light is 1: 5, and measuring range is 0999, and it is high more to measure numerical value, illustrates that the content of melanin and haemachrome is high more in the skin, and skin is black more, otherwise then white more.
Test method: choosing skin people black or long speckle is the volunteer, clean facial before the test earlier with cleansing milk, 20 ± 2 ℃ of temperature, sit quietly in the environment of humidity 40%60% and test its cheeks dermal melanin content with melanin tester (MX18) after half an hour, test value is as blank value, behind sample on probation, tested its cheeks melanin content on the 10th, 20,30 day, according to test result before and after the sample on probation, the whitening effect of comparative sample.
The sample using method: sooner or later evenly be applied in face after clean every day, avoids sunlight to be exposed to the sun, and the useful life is 20 days.
Crowd on probation: 14 healthy womens, the age, the colour of skin was more black in 30-55 year, and some experimenter has mottle.The test of employing cheeks,
Date processing and analysis:
1, personal evaluation after the sampling: have 5 people to feel whiteness of skin, there wherein have 4 people to think that skin changes to be apparent in view, and it is even that the colour of skin on the tire becomes, and speckle has also shoaled.Moisture retention is good, does not see skin adverse reaction.
2, melanin test value (mean+SD SD) and rate of change thereof:
? Blank 10 days 20 days
Meansigma methods ??202.2±52.1 ??188.5±52.3 ??180.4±49.39
Rate of change, % ??- ??-6.78 ??-10.78
3, interpretation of result:
1) see from Fig. 7 that it is the fastest that preceding 10 days on probation melanin underspeeds, and has 8 melanin contents that obvious reduction is all arranged among 10 volunteers, the volunteer generally reacts skin and obviously bleaches.
2) from Fig. 8, see, in the time of 20 days melanin reduce also bigger, but preceding relatively 10 days slow slightly, have 6 melanin contents obviously to reduce among 10 volunteers, 3 variations are not obvious, 1 melanin content has rising slightly.It is a little whiter when the volunteer generally reacts than 10 days.
Human experimentation proves, contains Chinese medicine compound " ten sources the are the side in vain " whitening skin-protection cream of extract and has the effect of the skin of face of fast, significantly whitening, and particularly local speckle place is had the effect of tangible desalination pigment.
Description of drawings
Figure (1) " ten sources are the side in vain " extracting solution extraction process
Figure (2) is the skin irritation test report repeatedly
The white side's extracting solution in figure (3) ten sources is to inhibition of tyrosinase activity
The white side's extracting solution in figure (4) ten sources is to the scavenging action of DPPH
The white side's extracting solution in figure (5) ten sources is to the influence of A375 human melanoma cell cell proliferation
The white side's extracting solution in figure (6) ten sources is to the influence of A375 human melanoma cell tyrosinase activity
Figure (7) uses the melanin content of the whitening skin-protection cream front and back skin that contains the white side's extracting solution in ten sources
Figure (8) uses the variation of dermal melanin content behind the whitening skin-protection cream contain the white side's extracting solution in ten sources
The specific embodiment:
Embodiment 1
Take by weighing Poria 30g and Fructus Benincasae seed 45g, pulverize water extraction three times.Use for the first time 900g water, extract 2h; 750g water extracts 1.5h for the second time; 600g water extracts 1h for the third time.Merge extractive liquid, filters, and sample on the D101 macroporous resin is collected the 0-30wt% ethanol elution, concentrates relative density to 1.2-1.3,60 ℃ of following vacuum dryings, evaporate to dryness.
Take by weighing Cortex Mori 18g, Radix Paeoniae Alba 18g, Pseudobulbus Bletillae (Rhizoma Bletillae) 9g, Fructus Atriplicis Sibiricae 9g, Flos Chrysanthemi 9g, Semen Ginkgo 18g and Radix Glycyrrhizae 9g pulverize, and use 70wt% ethanol extraction three times.Use for the first time the 800g solvent, extract 2h; Use for the second time the 800g solvent, extract 1.5h; Use the 800g solvent for the third time, extract 1h.Merge extractive liquid, reclaims ethanol, concentrates, and filters aqueous dispersion.Behind D101 macroporous resin water eluting, collect the 30-70wt% ethanol elution.Concentrate relative density to 1.2-1.3,60 ℃ of following vacuum dryings, evaporate to dryness.
Take by weighing Lignum Santali Albi 9g and Rhizoma Atractylodis Macrocephalae 18g, pulverize, be placed in the volatile oil extractor, add 160g water, put and slowly be heated to boiling in the electric jacket, kept 5 hours, stop heating, place a moment, collect volatile oil.
Get above-mentioned powder and volatile oil, be dissolved in (propylene glycol: water=3: 7 (weight ratio)), obtain brown clear solution in the aqueous solution of propylene glycol in 1: 200 ratio (weight ratio).
Embodiment 2
Take by weighing Poria 27g and Fructus Benincasae seed 40.5g, pulverize water extraction three times.Use for the first time 750g water, extract 4h; Use for the second time 750g water, extract 3h; Use 750g water for the third time, extract 1h.Merge extractive liquid, filters, and sample on the D101 macroporous resin is collected the 0-30wt% ethanol elution, concentrates relative density to 1.2-1.3,60 ℃ of following vacuum dryings, evaporate to dryness.
Take by weighing Cortex Mori 16.2g, Radix Paeoniae Alba 16.2g, Pseudobulbus Bletillae (Rhizoma Bletillae) 8.1g, Fructus Atriplicis Sibiricae 8.1g, Flos Chrysanthemi 8.1g, Semen Ginkgo 16.2g and Radix Glycyrrhizae 8.1g pulverize, and use 50wt% ethanol extraction three times.Use for the first time the 900g solvent, extract 3h; Use for the second time the 900g solvent, extract 2h; Use the 800g solvent for the third time, extract 1.5h.Merge extractive liquid, reclaims ethanol, concentrates, and filters aqueous dispersion.Behind D101 macroporous resin water eluting, collect the 30-70wt% ethanol elution.Concentrate relative density to 1.2-1.3,60 ℃ of following vacuum dryings, evaporate to dryness.
Take by weighing Lignum Santali Albi 8.1g and Rhizoma Atractylodis Macrocephalae 16.2g, pulverize, be placed in the volatile oil extractor, add 160g water, put and slowly be heated to boiling in the electric jacket, kept 5 hours, stop heating, place a moment, collect volatile oil.
Get above-mentioned powder and volatile oil, be dissolved in (propylene glycol: water=1: 7 (weight ratio)), obtain brown clear solution in the aqueous solution of propylene glycol in the ratio of 1: 100 (weight ratio).
Embodiment 3
Take by weighing Poria 66g and Fructus Benincasae seed 99g, pulverize water extraction three times.Use for the first time 1800g water, extract 4h; 1800g water extracts 3h for the second time; 1500g water extracts 2h for the third time.Merge extractive liquid, filters, and sample on the D101 macroporous resin is collected the 30-70wt% ethanol elution, concentrates relative density to 1.2-1.3,80 ℃ of following vacuum dryings, evaporate to dryness.
Take by weighing Cortex Mori 39.6g, Radix Paeoniae Alba 39.6g, Pseudobulbus Bletillae (Rhizoma Bletillae) 19.8g, Fructus Atriplicis Sibiricae 19.8g, Flos Chrysanthemi 19.8g, Semen Ginkgo 39.6g and Radix Glycyrrhizae 19.8g pulverize, and use 90wt% ethanol extraction three times.Use for the first time the 1800g solvent, extract 4h; Use for the second time the 1600g solvent, extract 3h; Use the 1600g solvent for the third time, extract 2h.Merge extractive liquid, reclaims ethanol, concentrates, and filters aqueous dispersion.Behind D101 macroporous resin water eluting, collect the 30-70wt% alcohol eluen.Concentrate relative density 1.2-1.3,80 ℃ of following vacuum dryings, evaporate to dryness.
Take by weighing Lignum Santali Albi 19.8g and Rhizoma Atractylodis Macrocephalae 39.6g, pulverize, be placed in the volatile oil extractor, add 320g water, put and slowly be heated to boiling in the electric jacket, kept 6 hours, stop heating, place a moment, collect volatile oil.
Get above-mentioned powder and volatile oil, be dissolved in (propylene glycol: water=5: 7 weight ratios), obtain brown clear solution in the aqueous solution of propylene glycol in 1: 500 ratio (weight ratio).
Formulation Example 1
Whitening cleansing milk consumption (weight %)
Chinese medicine compound " ten sources are the side in vain " extract 1~20
Cocos nucifera oil acyl Glycine sodium 15~45
Cocos nucifera oil acyl sodium glutamate 0~5
Laureth-1 phosphoesterase 30~5
Cocamido propyl betaine 2~6
The single sodium acetate 2~6 of lauroyl both sexes
Lauric acid 0~2
Stearic acid 0~2
Ethylene Glycol Distearate 1~2
Essence is an amount of
Antiseptic is an amount of
Acrylate/C10~30 alkyl acrylate cross-linked polymers 0.1~0.4
Deionized water adds to 100
Formulation Example 2
Whitening and moistening skin water consumption (weight %)
Chinese medicine compound " ten sources are the side in vain " extract 1~20
Glycerol 3~5
1,3 butanediol 3~5
Ethanol 0~10
Hyaluronic acid 0~0.01
VB3?????????????????????????????????????0~3
Essence is an amount of
Antiseptic is an amount of
PEG-40 castor oil hydrogenated 0.01~0.2
Deionized water adds to 100
Formulation Example 3
Whitening and skin-protecting emulsion consumption (weight %)
Chinese medicine compound " ten sources are the side in vain " extract 1~20
The C14-22 alkylol (with) C12-20 alkyl androstanediol 1.5~2.5
Mineral oil 1~5
Iso-octyl palmitate 2~5
Polydimethylsiloxane 0~2
Olive oil 1~4
Dicaprylyl carbonate 2~6
Glycerol 3~8
Xanthan gum 0.1~0.2
Essence is an amount of
Antiseptic is an amount of
Deionized water adds to 100
Formulation Example 4
Whitening skin-protection cream consumption (weight %)
Chinese medicine compound " ten sources are the side in vain " extract 1~20
16-stearyl alcohol (with) 16-octadecyl glucoside 2.5~4.0
Squalane 3~6
Caprylic/capric triglyceride 3~8
Dicaprylyl carbonate 4~8
Macadimia nut oil 0~3
Shea butter 0~3
Polydimethylsiloxane 0~2
16 octadecanol 0~2.5
Glycerol 3~10
Xanthan gum 0.1~0.2
Carbomer 0~0.2
VB3???????????????????????????????????????????0~5.0
Essence is an amount of
Antiseptic is an amount of
Deionized water adds to 100
Formulation Example 5
Whitening and skin-protecting essence consumption (weight %)
Chinese medicine compound " ten sources are the side in vain " extract 1~20
Glycerol 3~5
1,3 butanediol 3~10
Ethanol 0~10
Hyaluronic acid 0.005~0.02
VB3???????????????????????????????????????????1~5
Yeast extract 0.5~2
Ascorbic acid glucoside 0.01~2.0
Sensor Chip CM 5 0~2.0
Xanthan gum 0.1~0.2
Hydroxyethyl-cellulose 0.05~0.2
PEG-40 castor oil hydrogenated 0.01~0.2
Essence is an amount of
Antiseptic is an amount of
Deionized water adds to 100
Formulation Example 6
The hand cream consumption (weight %) of whitening
Chinese medicine compound " ten sources are the side in vain " extract 1~8
Stearic acid monoglycerides 1.5~2.5
Tween 20 0.5~2.5
16 octadecanol 3.0~5.0
Iso-octyl palmitate 2.0~6.0
Vaseline 0.5~3.0
Dimethicone 0.5~2.0
White mineral oil 1.0~10.0
Lanoline 1.0~2.5
Caprylic/capric triglyceride 2.0~8.0
Glycerol 3.0~10.0
Xanthan gum 0~0.3
Allantoin 0~0.5
Antiseptic is an amount of
Essence is an amount of
Deionized water adds to 100
Formulation Example 7
Whitening and skin-protecting bath gel consumption (weight %)
Chinese medicine compound " ten sources are the side in vain " extract 1~10
Sodium laureth sulfate salt (30%) 20~35
Cocoyl sodium sarcosinate (30%) 10~20
Cocamidopropyl betaine (30%) 5~10
Cocoyl diglycollic amide 2~5
Sodium oxide 0.5~1.5
Citric acid is an amount of
Essence is an amount of
Antiseptic is an amount of
Deionized water adds to 100
The industry practicality
It is reasonable that Chinese medicine compound prescription of the present invention " ten sources in vain side " is extracted the thing compatibility, preparation technology's simple possible, and natural origin, safe to skin has no bad reaction, has the effect of clear and definite skin whitening, desalination dermal melanin. The cosmetics that contain the present invention " ten sources are white " Chinese medical extract have also had both the characteristic of the present invention " ten sources are white " Chinese medical extract.

Claims (8)

1. Chinese medicine extraction complex, comprising following component is that feedstock production forms: Fructus Benincasae seed, Fructus Atriplicis Sibiricae, Cortex Mori, Lignum Santali Albi, Flos Chrysanthemi, Semen Ginkgo, the Radix Paeoniae Alba, Pseudobulbus Bletillae (Rhizoma Bletillae), Poria, the Rhizoma Atractylodis Macrocephalae and Radix Glycyrrhizae, wherein the percentage by weight of each component is 21.09-25.78%, 4.22-5.16%, 8.44-10.03%, 4.22-5.16%, 4.22-5.16%, 8.44-10.03%, 8.44-10.03%, 4.22-5.16%, 14.06-17.19%, 8.44-10.03%, 4.22-5.16%.
2. the preparation method of complex as claimed in claim 1 is characterized in that:
(1) takes by weighing Lignum Santali Albi and the Rhizoma Atractylodis Macrocephalae two flavor Chinese medicines, pulverize, be placed in the volatile oil extractor, add the water of 5-15 times of weight, put and slowly be heated to boiling in the electric jacket, kept 5 hours, stop heating and place a moment, collect volatile oil (1);
(2) take by weighing Poria and Fructus Benincasae seed, pulverize, with the water extraction of 5-15 times of weight three times, for the first time with 2-4 hour, with 1.5-3 hour, use one hour for the third time, merge extractive liquid, for the second time, filtration is behind sample on the D101 macroporous resin, use the 30-70wt% ethanol elution, merge eluent and concentrate 60-80 ℃ of following vacuum drying, evaporate to dryness obtains effective ingredient (2);
(3) take by weighing Cortex Mori, the Radix Paeoniae Alba, Pseudobulbus Bletillae (Rhizoma Bletillae), Fructus Atriplicis Sibiricae, Flos Chrysanthemi, Semen Ginkgo and Radix Glycyrrhizae, pulverize, extract three times with the 50-90wt% alcoholic solution, solvent with 7-15 times of weight extracted 2-4 hour for the first time, solvent with 7-15 times of weight extracted 1.5-3 hour for the second time, solvent with 7-15 times of weight extracted 1-2 hour for the third time, merge concentrated solution, reclaim ethanol, concentrate, after the filtration, aqueous dispersion, behind D101 macroporous resin water eluting, collect the 15-70wt% ethanol elution, 60-80 ℃ of following vacuum drying, evaporate to dryness obtains effective ingredient (3);
(4) get an amount of volatile oil (1), effective ingredient (2), effective ingredient (3), be dissolved in (propylene glycol: water=1: 7-5: 7 (weight ratios)) in the aqueous solution of propylene glycol in the ratio of 1: 50~1: 300 (weight ratio), obtain the brown translucent liquid that is clear to, its pH value scope is 4.5-6.5.
3. the purposes of Chinese medicine complex as claimed in claim 1 in the compositions of keratin substances is whitened in preparation.
4. a cosmetic composition is characterized in that containing Chinese medicine extraction complex as claimed in claim 1.
5. cosmetic composition as claimed in claim 4, its Chinese medicine extraction complex is 1-20%, based on the gross weight of cosmetic composition.
6. cosmetic composition as claimed in claim 4, it is facial milk cleanser, surfactant, facial treatment milk, protective skin cream, facial treatment essence liquid, hand cream, bath gel.
7. cosmetic composition as claimed in claim 4, it is gel, emulsion, cream frost, water preparation, lotion.
8. cosmetic composition as claimed in claim 4, it can also contain other useful composition: antioxidant, wetting agent, emulsifying agent, emollient, thickening agent, vitamin, surfactant, aromatic, antiseptic, nertralizer and their mixture.
CN2009102600697A 2009-12-24 2009-12-24 Chinese medicinal compound extract and cosmetics comprising same as active ingredient Expired - Fee Related CN101849899B (en)

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CN105055575A (en) * 2015-08-24 2015-11-18 北京太和逸肤科技有限公司 External application traditional Chinese medicine composition and preparation with skin whitening and qi and blood promoting effects and preparation method of external application traditional Chinese medicine composition
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