CN101849895B - 包含亲油性聚酰胺缩聚物的油-醇无水流体掩蔽组合物 - Google Patents
包含亲油性聚酰胺缩聚物的油-醇无水流体掩蔽组合物 Download PDFInfo
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- CN101849895B CN101849895B CN201010157040.9A CN201010157040A CN101849895B CN 101849895 B CN101849895 B CN 101849895B CN 201010157040 A CN201010157040 A CN 201010157040A CN 101849895 B CN101849895 B CN 101849895B
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- -1 ammonia ester Chemical class 0.000 claims description 37
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- UMGDCJDMYOKAJW-UHFFFAOYSA-N thiourea Chemical compound NC(N)=S UMGDCJDMYOKAJW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 6
- FMRHJJZUHUTGKE-UHFFFAOYSA-N Ethylhexyl salicylate Chemical compound CCCCC(CC)COC(=O)C1=CC=CC=C1O FMRHJJZUHUTGKE-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 5
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- JGUMTYWKIBJSTN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-ethylhexyl 4-[[4,6-bis[4-(2-ethylhexoxycarbonyl)anilino]-1,3,5-triazin-2-yl]amino]benzoate Chemical compound C1=CC(C(=O)OCC(CC)CCCC)=CC=C1NC1=NC(NC=2C=CC(=CC=2)C(=O)OCC(CC)CCCC)=NC(NC=2C=CC(=CC=2)C(=O)OCC(CC)CCCC)=N1 JGUMTYWKIBJSTN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 4
- CNXZMGRWEYQCOQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-methoxy-3-phenylprop-2-enoic acid Chemical compound COC(C(O)=O)=CC1=CC=CC=C1 CNXZMGRWEYQCOQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 4
- ISDGWTZFJKFKMO-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-phenyl-1,3-dioxane-4,6-dione Chemical group O1C(=O)CC(=O)OC1C1=CC=CC=C1 ISDGWTZFJKFKMO-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 4
- OKTJSMMVPCPJKN-UHFFFAOYSA-N Carbon Chemical compound [C] OKTJSMMVPCPJKN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 4
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- 125000004079 stearyl group Chemical group [H]C([*])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])[H] 0.000 claims description 4
- MAOBFOXLCJIFLV-UHFFFAOYSA-N (2-aminophenyl)-phenylmethanone Chemical compound NC1=CC=CC=C1C(=O)C1=CC=CC=C1 MAOBFOXLCJIFLV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 3
- WHSXTWFYRGOBGO-UHFFFAOYSA-N 3-methylsalicylic acid Chemical compound CC1=CC=CC(C(O)=O)=C1O WHSXTWFYRGOBGO-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 3
- ALYNCZNDIQEVRV-UHFFFAOYSA-M 4-aminobenzoate Chemical group NC1=CC=C(C([O-])=O)C=C1 ALYNCZNDIQEVRV-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 claims description 3
- QGZKDVFQNNGYKY-UHFFFAOYSA-N ammonia Natural products N QGZKDVFQNNGYKY-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 3
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- RWCCWEUUXYIKHB-UHFFFAOYSA-N benzophenone Chemical compound C=1C=CC=CC=1C(=O)C1=CC=CC=C1 RWCCWEUUXYIKHB-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 3
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- OCWYEMOEOGEQAN-UHFFFAOYSA-N bumetrizole Chemical compound CC(C)(C)C1=CC(C)=CC(N2N=C3C=C(Cl)C=CC3=N2)=C1O OCWYEMOEOGEQAN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 3
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- 125000000484 butyl group Chemical group [H]C([*])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])[H] 0.000 claims description 3
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- IAJNXBNRYMEYAZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N ethyl 2-cyano-3,3-diphenylprop-2-enoate Chemical compound C=1C=CC=CC=1C(=C(C#N)C(=O)OCC)C1=CC=CC=C1 IAJNXBNRYMEYAZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 3
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- DZVCFNFOPIZQKX-LTHRDKTGSA-M merocyanine Chemical compound [Na+].O=C1N(CCCC)C(=O)N(CCCC)C(=O)C1=C\C=C\C=C/1N(CCCS([O-])(=O)=O)C2=CC=CC=C2O\1 DZVCFNFOPIZQKX-LTHRDKTGSA-M 0.000 claims description 3
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- UEVAMYPIMMOEFW-UHFFFAOYSA-N trolamine salicylate Chemical compound OCCN(CCO)CCO.OC(=O)C1=CC=CC=C1O UEVAMYPIMMOEFW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 3
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
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Abstract
本发明涉及一种无水流体组合物,所述组合物在化妆品可接受的介质中包含:a)至少一种烃油;和b)至少一种亲油性有机UV掩蔽剂和;c)至少一种直链C1-C3一元醇,特别是乙醇,和d)至少一种亲油性聚酰胺缩聚物。本发明还涉及所述组合物在制备用于皮肤、指甲、毛发、睫毛、眉毛和/或头皮的化妆处理的产品特别是护理产品、防晒产品、化妆产品或香气产品中的用途。
Description
本发明涉及一种无水流体组合物,所述组合物在化妆品可接受的介质中包含:
a)至少一种烃油和
b)至少一种亲油性有机UV掩蔽剂和
c)至少一种直链C1-C3一元醇和
d)至少一种亲油性聚酰胺缩聚物。
众所周知,波长为280nm到400nm之间的光辐射可使人的表皮变棕,更特别地,波长为280-320nm之间的光线(即UV-B光线)可导致红斑和皮肤灼伤,这些对于自然黝黑可能有害。出于这些原因以及出于美学原因,存在对控制该自然黝黑以因此控制肤色的措施的持续需要;因此需要掩蔽这种UV-B辐射。
还众所周知的是,使皮肤变暗的波长为320-400nm之间的UV-A光线能对皮肤带来有害变化,特别是在敏感皮肤或不断暴露于太阳辐射的皮肤情况下。特别地,UV-A光线将导致皮肤失去弹性和皱纹外观,从而造成皮肤过早老化。其将促进红斑反应的引发或在一些个体中加重这种反应并甚至可引起光毒性或光变应性反应。因此,出于美学及化妆品学原因,例如为保住皮肤的自然弹性,越来越多的人们希望控制UV-A光线对其皮肤的影响。因此也需要掩蔽UV-A辐射。
针对为皮肤和角蛋白物质提供UV辐射防护这一目标,人们通常使用包含在UV-A区具有活性及在UV-B区具有活性的掩蔽剂的防晒组合物。
迄今,人们已提出众多旨在对皮肤提供光防护(UV-A和/或UV-B)的化妆品组合物。目标非常特别地在于找到使用者易于施用到皮肤上的流体配方。
在迄今提出的流体防晒组合物中,由于其易于施用到皮肤上且施用舒适以及其良好的抗水性,故防晒油型无水配方特别受追寻。但其在防晒产品市场上并不非常普及,原因是其难以获得高于10的防晒系数以及符合对防晒产品的各种规章所要求的比率、特别是高于5的UV-A防护系数。
防晒系数(SPF)在数学上以有UV掩蔽剂时达到引起红斑的阈值所需的照射时间对无UV掩蔽剂时达到引起红斑的阈值所需的时间的比率表示。特别地,其按Colipa/CTFA SA/JCIA出版的国际方法(2006年5月)体内评价。
对于防护UV-A辐射的表征,测定皮肤暴露于UV-A辐射2-4小时后观察到的肤色的PPD(Persistent Pigment Darkening,持续性色素沉淀指数)方法特别受推崇和使用。该方法于1996年被日本化妆品工业协会(JCIA)采纳作为产品UV-A标签标注的官方试验程序并被欧洲和美国的检测实验室频繁使用(日本化妆品工业协会技术公报,UVA防护效率测定标准,1995年11月21日发布、1996年1月1日生效)。
防护系数UV-APPD(UV-APPD PF)在数学上以有UV掩蔽剂时达到色素沉着阈值所需的UV-A辐射剂量(MPPDp)对无UV掩蔽剂时达到色素沉着阈值所需的UV-A辐射剂量(MPPDnp)的比率表示。
具体而言,试图提高防晒系数的防晒油制备中遇到的主要困难在于同时获得具有令人愉悦的化妆品品质的流体、透明且稳定的制剂。
申请EP 1813266和EP 2014277中已提出在乳液类型的流体水性防晒组合物中使用亲油性聚酰胺缩聚物特别是酯封端的聚(酯-酰胺)(ETPEA)聚合物或叔酰胺封端的聚酰胺(ATPA)聚合物以获得高防晒系数。
在其研究过程中,申请公司发现,在防晒油类型的流体无水防晒组合物中使用这种类型的亲油性聚酰胺缩聚物时,制剂不保持流动而变得过粘(形成凝胶)并几乎没有化妆品价值。此外,在贮存过程中,2个月后,这样获得的配方具有渗出油而变为非均相:成胶和未成胶部分的混合物的趋势。
因此存在找到对时间稳定并可获得较高防晒和UV-A防护系数的新型透明流体无水防晒组合物的需要。
事实上,申请公司现已意外地发现,此目的可用一种在化妆品可接受的介质中包含如下组分的无水流体组合物达到:
a)至少一种烃油和
b)至少一种亲油性有机UV掩蔽剂和
c)至少一种直链C1-C3一元醇和
d)至少一种亲油性聚酰胺缩聚物。
此发现构成本发明的基础。
本发明因此涉及一种无水流体组合物,所述组合物在化妆品可接受的介质中包含:
a)至少一种烃油和
b)至少一种亲油性有机UV掩蔽剂和
c)至少一种直链C1-C3一元醇和
d)至少一种亲油性聚酰胺缩聚物。
通过下面的详细描述,本发明的其他特征、方面和优势将是显而易见的。
“化妆品可接受的”应理解为指与皮肤和/或其体表生长物相容,具有令人愉悦的颜色、令人愉悦的气味和令人愉悦的感觉,且不引起易于使消费者排斥使用该组合物的不可接受的不适(刺痛、紧绷、发红)。
“流体组合物”在本发明的意义内应理解为指不以固体形式存在且用Rheomat 180粘度计于25℃下在200rpm的转速下转动30秒后测得的粘度低于0.5Pa·s、更优选低于0.2Pa·s、更特别是在0.0001Pa·s到0.1Pa·s范围内的组合物。
“无水组合物”应理解为指包含低于1%重量的水、甚至低于0.5%的水、特别是无水的组合物,所述水不是在组合物的制备过程中加入的,而是对应于混合的成分所贡献的残余水。
“液体脂肪相”在本发明的意义内应理解为指在环境温度(25℃)及大气压力(760mmHg)下为液体且由一种或多种在环境温度下为液体并彼此相容的脂肪物质(也称油)所组成的脂肪相。
“亲油性的”应理解为指能以分子状态完全溶解在液体脂肪相中或者能以胶体形式(例如胶束形式)溶解在液体脂肪相中的任何化妆品或皮肤病学化合物。
“油”应理解为指在环境温度(20-25℃)下为液体的脂肪物质。
“烃油”应理解为指主要包含碳和氢原子及任选酯、醚、氟化物、羧酸、醇、聚硅氧烷、胺、苯基和/或氨基酸基团的任何油。
亲油性聚酰胺缩聚物
“缩聚物”在本发明的意义内应理解为指通过缩聚即通过具有选自特别是酸、醇和胺官能团的不同官能团的单体之间的化学反应获得的聚合物。
“聚合物”在本发明的意义内应理解为指具有至少2个重复单元、优选至少3个重复单元、更好是10个重复单元的化合物。
所述亲油性聚酰胺缩聚物在本发明的组合物中优选以占组合物总重量的0.1-15%重量、更优选1-8%重量的浓度存在。
所述亲油性聚酰胺缩聚物可特别是选自聚酰胺聚合物,所述聚酰胺聚合物包含a)具有烃重复单元的聚合物主链,所述烃重复单元具有至少一个不为侧基的酰胺单元,和任选的b)至少一个任选官能化的侧脂肪链和/或至少一个任选官能化的端脂肪链,所述脂肪链包含至少四个碳原子并与这些烃单元相连。
术语“官能化的链”在本发明的意义内应理解为指包含一个或多个官能团或活性基团的烷基链,所述官能团或活性基团选自特别是酰胺、羟基、醚、氧化烯或聚氧化烯、卤素(包括氟化或全氟化基团)、酯、硅氧烷和聚硅氧烷基团。此外,一个或多个脂肪链的氢原子可至少部分地被氟原子所代替。
术语“烃重复单元”在本发明的意义内应理解为指包含2-80个碳原子、优选2-60个碳原子、带氢原子和任选的氧原子的单元,其可以是饱和或不饱和的及直链、支链或环状的。这些单元各还包含至少一个酰胺基团,所述酰胺基团优选不为侧基而是出现在聚合物主链中。
优选所述侧链与聚合物主链的至少一个氮原子直接相连。
所述亲油性聚酰胺缩聚物可在烃单元之间包含聚硅氧烷单元或氧化烯单元。
此外,本发明的组合物的亲油性聚酰胺缩聚物优选包含占酰胺单元和脂肪链的总数的40-98%、更好是50-95%的脂肪链。
优选侧脂肪链与至少一个聚合物酰胺单元的氮原子相连。特别地,该聚酰胺的脂肪链占酰胺单元和脂肪链的总数的40-98%、更好是50-95%。
有利地,所述亲油性聚酰胺缩聚物的重均分子量低于100000(特别地,1000-100000范围内)、尤其是低于50000(特别地,1000-50000范围内)、更特别是1000-30000范围内,优选2000-20000,更好是2000-10000。
所述亲油性聚酰胺缩聚物不溶于水,特别是在25℃下。其尤其不包含离子基团。
作为本发明中可使用的优选的亲油性聚酰胺缩聚物,可提及被具有6-120个碳原子、更好是8-120个碳原子、特别是12-68个碳原子的侧脂肪链和/或端脂肪链所支化的聚酰胺,其中各个端脂肪链经由至少一个连接基L与聚酰胺主链相连。连接基L可选自酯、醚、胺、脲、氨酯、硫酯、硫醚、硫脲和硫氨酯基团。优选这些聚合物在聚酰胺主链的各端处包含脂肪链。
这些聚合物优选为自二羧酸与胺之间的缩聚产生的聚合物,其中所述二羧酸具有至少32个碳原子(特别地,具有32-44个碳原子),所述胺选自具有至少2个碳原子(特别地,2-36个碳原子)的二胺和具有至少两个碳原子(特别地,2-36个碳原子)的三胺。所述二酸优选为自具有至少16个碳原子、优选16-24个碳原子的包含烯键式不饱和基团的脂肪酸如油酸、亚油酸或亚麻酸产生的二聚体。所述二胺优选为乙二胺、己二胺或六亚甲基二胺。所述三胺为例如亚乙基三胺。对于包含一个或两个端羧酸基团的聚合物,有利的是用具有至少4个碳原子、优选10-36个碳原子、更好是12-24个碳原子、甚至更好是16-24个碳原子、例如18个碳原子的一元醇将其酯化。
根据本发明的组合物的亲油性聚酰胺缩聚物可特别是选自下式(A)的聚合物:
其中:
n为1-30的整数,
R’1在各情况下独立地代表脂肪链并选自具有至少一个碳原子、特别是4-24个碳原子的烷基或烯基;
R’2在各情况下独立地代表包含1-52个碳原子的烃基;
R’3在各情况下独立地代表包含至少一个选自碳、氢或氮原子的原子的有机基团,条件是R’3包含至少3个碳原子;
R’4在各情况下独立地代表氢原子、包含1-10个碳原子的烷基或与至少一个选自R’3和另一R’4的基团的直接键以便当所述基团为另一R’4时连接R’3和R’4的氮原子形成R’4-N-R’3所定义的杂环结构的一部分,条件是至少50%的R’4基团代表氢原子,和
L代表连接基,优选选自任选被至少一个如上所定义的R’1基团所取代的酯、醚、胺、脲、氨酯、硫酯、硫醚、硫脲或硫氨酯。
根据一个实施方案,这些聚合物选自其中连接基L代表酯基
的式(A)聚合物
这些聚合物更尤其是Union Camp的文件US-A-5 783 657中描述的那些。
这些聚合物中的每个
满足特别是下式(B):
其中:
-m表示为整数的酰胺单元数,所述酰胺单元数使酯基数占酯和酰胺基团的总数的10%到50%;
-R1在各情况下独立地为具有至少4个碳原子、特别是4-24个碳原子的烷基或烯基;
-R2在各情况下独立地为C4-C42烃基,条件是50%的R2基团代表C30-C42烃基;
-R3在各情况下独立地代表具有至少两个碳原子、具有氢原子并任选具有一个或多个氧或氮原子的有机基团;
-R4在各情况下独立地代表氢原子、C1-C10烷基或与R3或另一R4的直接键以便连接R3和R4的氮原子形成R4-N-R3所定义的杂环结构的一部分,其中至少50%的R4基团代表氢原子。
在式(B)的特定情况下,本发明的意义内的任选官能化的端脂肪链为与聚酰胺主链最末的氮原子相连的端链。
特别地,形成本发明的意义内的端和/或侧脂肪链的一部分的式(B)的酯基占酯和酰胺基团的总数的15-40%、更好是20-35%。
此外,m优选代表1-5的整数、更好是大于2的整数。
优选R1为C12-C22、优选C16-C22烷基。有利地,R2可为C10-C42烃基(亚烷基)。优选至少50%、更好是至少75%的R2基团为具有30-42个碳原子的基团。其他R2基团为氢化的C4-C19、甚至C4-C12基团。
优选R3代表C2-C36烃基或聚氧化烯基团,R4代表氢原子。优选R3代表C2-C12烃基。
所述烃基可以是饱和或不饱和的及直链、环状或支链的基团。此外,所述烷基和亚烷基可以是饱和或不饱和的及直链或支链的基团。
通常,式(B)的聚合物以聚合物共混物的形式提供,这些共混物可能还包含对应于其中m的值为0的式(B)化合物即二酯的合成产品。
根据本发明的一个特别优选的形式,可使用C36二酸与乙二胺的缩合共聚物的共混物;端酯基自剩余的酸端基被鲸蜡醇、硬脂醇或其混合物(也称鲸蜡硬脂醇)酯化而产生(INCI名称:乙二胺/硬脂基二聚二亚油酸酯共聚物(Ethylenediamine/Stearyl Dimer DilinoleateCopolymer))。其重均分子量优选为6000。这些共混物特别是由ArizonaChemical以商品名Uniclear 80和Uniclear 100VG出售,Uniclear 80和Uniclear 100VG分别呈80%(活性物)凝胶/矿物油和100%(活性物)凝胶的形式。其软化点为88℃到94℃。
作为对应于通式(A)的聚酰胺缩聚物,还可提及包含至少一个经由至少一个叔酰胺连接基与聚合物主链相连的端脂肪链的聚合物(也称酰胺封端聚酰胺或ATPA)。关于这些聚合物的更多信息,请参阅文件US 6 503 522。
根据本发明的一个特别优选的形式,可更特别是使用氢化二亚油酸、乙二胺和二(C14-C18)烷基胺的共聚物(INCI名称:乙二胺/氢化二聚二亚油酸酯共聚物双-二-C14-C18烷基酰胺(Ethylenediamide/Hydrogenated Dimer Dilinoleate Copolymer Bis-Di-C14-C18Alkyl Amide))。该共聚物特别是由Arizona Chemical以商品名Sylvaclear A200V出售。
根据另一实施方案,式(A)的聚酰胺也可为包含酯端基的聚(酯-酰胺)(酯封端聚(酯-酰胺)或ETPEA),例如其制备在文件US 6 552 160中描述的那些。
根据本发明的一个特别优选的形式,可更特别是使用氢化二亚油酸、乙二胺、新戊二醇和硬脂醇的共聚物(INCI名称:双硬脂基乙二胺/新戊二醇/硬脂基氢化二聚二亚油酸酯共聚物(Bis-StearylEthylenediamine/Neopentyl Glycol/Stearyl Hydrogenated DimerDilinoleate Copolymer))。该共聚物特别是由Arizona Chemical以商品名Sylvaclear C75V出售。
作为本发明中可使用的聚酰胺缩聚物,还可提及包含至少一个经由至少一个醚或聚醚连接基与聚合物主链相连的端脂肪链的那些(因此其被称为醚封端聚(醚)酰胺)。这样的聚合物在例如文件US 6 399713中有述。
根据本发明的聚酰胺优选具有高于65℃到至高190℃的软化点。优选其软化点在70-130℃范围内、更好是80-105℃。所述聚酰胺特别是为非蜡状聚合物。
作为本发明中可使用的聚酰胺缩聚物,还可提及自脂族二羧酸与二胺(包括具有多于2个羰基和2个胺基的化合物)的缩合产生的聚酰胺树脂,相邻的整个单元的羰基和胺基经由酰胺键缩合。这些聚酰胺树脂特别是被General Mills,Inc.和Henkel Corp.(Versamid 930,744或1655)以商品名出售的那些或Olin Mathieson ChemicalCorp.以商品名特别是Onamid S或C出售的那些。这些树脂的重均分子量在6000-9000范围内。关于这些聚酰胺的更多信息,请参阅文件US 3 645 705和US 3 148 125。更尤其是使用930或744。
还可使用Arizona Chemical以名称Uni-Rez(2658,2931,2970,2621,2613,2624,2665,1554,2623,2662)出售的聚酰胺及Henkel以名称Macromelt 6212出售的产品。关于这些聚酰胺的更多信息,请参阅文件US 5 500 209。
还可使用自植物产生的聚酰胺树脂,例如专利US 5 783 657和US 5 998 570中描述的那些。
烃油
本发明的组合物包含至少一种烃油,所述烃油可以是挥发性的或非挥发性的。
“挥发性油”在本发明的意义内应理解为指在环境温度和大气压力下与皮肤或角蛋白纤维接触时能在不到一小时的时间内蒸发的油。本发明的挥发性油为挥发性的化妆品油,其在环境温度下为液体并在环境温度和大气压力下具有非零蒸气压,所述蒸气压特别是在0.13Pa到40000Pa(10-3-300mmHg)范围内,特别是1.3Pa到13000Pa(0.01-100mmHg),更特别是1.3Pa到1300Pa(0.01-10mmHg)。
“非挥发性油”应理解为指在环境温度和大气压力下在皮肤或角蛋白纤维上保留至少数小时且蒸气压特别是低于10-3mmHg(0.13Pa)的油。
所述烃油优选以占组合物总重量的30-99.8%重量、更优选40-90%重量的浓度存在于本发明的组合物中。
作为本发明中可使用的非挥发性油,可特别是提及:
(i)植物来源的烃油,例如甘油三酯,甘油三酯通常为脂肪酸和甘油的三酯,其脂肪酸可具有C4-C24的各种链长,这些链可以是直链或支链的及饱和或不饱和的;这些油特别是为麦芽油、向日葵油、葡萄籽油、芝麻油、玉米油、杏仁油、蓖麻油、乳木果油、鳄梨油、橄榄油、大豆油、甜杏仁油、棕榈油、菜籽油、棉籽油、榛子油、澳大利亚坚果油、加州希蒙得木油、紫花苜蓿油、罂粟油、南瓜籽油、葫芦油、黑醋栗籽油、月见草油、小米油、大麦油、奎藜籽油、黑麦油、红花油、西番莲油或麝香玫瑰油;或此外辛酸/癸酸的甘油三酯,如Stéarineries Dubois出售的那些或Dynamit Nobel以名称Miglyol 810、812和818出售的那些;
(ii)具有10-40个碳原子的合成醚;
(iii)矿物或合成来源的直链或支链烃,例如液体矿脂、聚癸烯、氢化聚异丁烯如Parleam、角鲨烷及其混合物;
(iv)合成酯,例如式RCOOR’的油,其中R代表包含1-40个碳原子的直链或支链脂肪酸的残基,R’代表包含1-40个碳原子的烃链、特别是支链烃链,条件是R+R’≥10,例如Purcellin油(鲸蜡硬脂醇辛酸酯)、肉豆蔻酸异丙酯、棕榈树异丙酯、苯甲酸C12-C15烷基酯如Witco以商品名“Finsolv TN”或“Witconol TN”出售的产品或EvonikGoldschmidt的“Tegosoft TN”、苯甲酸2-乙基苯基酯如ISP以商品名“X-Tend 226”出售的商品、羊毛脂酸异丙酯、月桂酸己酯、己二酸二异丙酯、异壬酸异壬酯、油醇芥酸酯、棕榈酸2-乙基己酯、异硬脂醇异硬脂酸酯、或醇或多元醇的辛酸酯、癸酸酯或蓖麻醇酸酯如丙二醇二辛酸酯;羟基化酯,如异硬脂醇乳酸酯或二异硬脂醇苹果酸酯;季戊四醇酯;柠檬酸酯或酒石酸酯,如二(直链C12-C13烷基)酒石酸酯如Enichem Augusta Industriale以名称Cosmacol ETI出售的那些及酒石酸二(直链C14-C15烷基酯)如同一公司以名称Cosmacol ETL出售的那些;或乙酸酯;
(v)包含支链和/或不饱和的碳链、具有12-26个碳原子、在环境温度下为液体的脂肪醇,例如辛基十二烷醇、异硬脂醇、油醇、2-己基癸醇、2-丁基辛醇或2-十一烷基十五烷醇;
(vi)高级脂肪酸,例如油酸、亚油酸或亚麻酸;
(vii)碳酸酯,例如碳酸二辛酯,如Cognis以名称“Cetiol CC”出售的产品;
(viii)脂肪酰胺,例如异丙基N-月桂酰肌氨酸酯,如Ajinomoto以商品名Eldew SL205出售的产品;
及其混合物。
挥发性烃油可选自具有8-16个碳原子的烃油,特别是支链C8-C16烷烃,例如石油来源的C8-C16异构烷烃(也称异链烷烃)如异十二烷(也称2,2,4,4,6-五甲基庚烷)、异十二烷、异十六烷或以商品名Isopars或Permethyls出售的油、支链C8-C16酯、新戊酸异己酯及其混合物。也可使用其他挥发性烃油如石油馏分,特别是Shell以名称Shell Solt出售的那些。根据一个实施方案,挥发性溶剂选自具有8-16个碳原子的挥发性烃油及其混合物。
也可提及Cognis的专利申请WO 2007/068371或WO2008/155059中所述的烷烃(差至少一个碳的不同烷烃的混合物)。这些烷烃自脂肪醇获得,所述脂肪醇自身自椰子油或棕榈油获得。可提及Cognis的申请WO 2008/155059的实施例1和2中获得的正-十一烷(C11)与正-十三烷(C13)的混合物。也可提及Sasol分别以名称Parafol12-97和Parafol 14-97出售的正-十二烷(C12)和正-十四烷(C14)及其混合物。
在本发明可使用的烃油中,更特别优选甘油三酯(特别是辛酸/癸酸的甘油三酯)、合成酯(特别是异壬酸异壬酯、油醇芥酸酯或苯甲酸C12-C15烷基酯)和脂肪醇(特别是辛基十二烷醇)。
其他油
根据本发明的组合物可还包含一种或多种其他油,所述其他油优选选自挥发性硅油或非挥发性硅油。
硅油可以占液体脂肪相的总重量的0.1-20%重量、优选0.1-5%重量的浓度存在于液体脂肪相中。
非挥发性硅油可特别是选自非挥发性聚二甲基硅氧烷(PDMSs),包含烷基侧基或烷氧基侧基和/或在聚硅氧烷链末端包含烷基或烷氧基的聚二甲基硅氧烷(其中所述烷基和烷氧基各具有2-24个碳原子),或苯基取代聚硅氧烷如苯基聚三甲基硅氧烷、苯基聚二甲基硅氧烷、苯基(三甲基甲硅烷氧基)二苯基硅氧烷、二苯基聚二甲基硅氧烷、二苯基(甲基二苯基)三硅氧烷或(2-苯基乙基)三甲基甲硅烷氧基硅酸酯。
作为挥发性硅油,可提及例如挥发性的直链或环状硅油,特别是粘度≤8厘沲(8×10-6m2/s)并具有特别是2-7个硅原子的那些,这些聚硅氧烷任选包含具有1-10个碳原子的烷基或烷氧基。作为本发明中可使用的挥发性硅油,可特别是提及八甲基环四硅氧烷、十甲基环五硅氧烷、十二甲基环六硅氧烷、七甲基己基三硅氧烷、七甲基辛基三硅氧烷、六甲基二硅氧烷、八甲基三硅氧烷、十甲基四硅氧烷、十二甲基五硅氧烷及其混合物。
还可提及通式(I)的挥发性线形烷基三硅氧烷油:
其中R代表包含2-4个碳原子的烷基,其一个或多个氢原子可被氟或氯原子所代替。
在通式(I)的油中,可提及对应式(I)的R分别为丁基、丙基或乙基的油:
3-丁基-1,1,1,3,5,5,5-七甲基三硅氧烷,
3-丙基-1,1,1,3,5,5,5-七甲基三硅氧烷,和
3-乙基-1,1,1,3,5,5,5-七甲基三硅氧烷。
直链C
1
-C
3
一元醇
本发明的组合物中存在的C1-C3一元醇可选自甲醇、乙醇、丙醇或其混合物。更特别优选选择乙醇。
其通常以占组合物总重量的0.1-40%重量、更优选2-10%重量的浓度存在。
亲油性有机UV掩蔽剂
其可特别是选自对氨基苯甲酸衍生物、水杨酸衍生物、肉桂酸衍生物、二苯甲酮或氨基二苯甲酮、邻氨基苯甲酸衍生物、二苯甲酰甲烷衍生物、β,β-二苯基丙烯酸酯衍生物、亚苄基樟脑衍生物、苯基苯并咪唑衍生物、苯并***衍生物、三嗪衍生物、双间苯二酚基三嗪、咪唑啉衍生物、苯亚甲基丙二酸酯衍生物、4,4-二芳基丁二烯衍生物、苯并噁唑衍生物、部花青及其混合物。
在能吸收320-400nm的UV辐射的亲油性有机UV-A掩蔽剂中,可提及:
二苯甲酰甲烷衍生物:
-Merck以名称“Eusolex 8020”出售的4-异丙基二苯甲酰甲烷,其对应于下式:
-1-(4-甲氧基-1-苯并呋喃-5-基)-3-苯基丙烷-1,3-二酮,Quest以名称Pongamol出售,具有式:
-1-(4-(叔丁基)苯基)-3-(2-羟基苯基)丙烷-1,3-二酮,具有式:
-丁基甲氧基二苯甲酰甲烷,特别是Hoffmann-La Roche以商品名“Parsol 1789”出售,
氨基二苯甲酮:
以商品名“Uvinul A+”出售的2-(4-二乙基氨基-2-羟基苯甲酰)苯甲酸正己酯,
邻氨基苯甲酸衍生物:
邻氨基苯甲酸薄荷酯,Haarmann and Reimer以商品名“NeoHeliopan MA”出售。
4,4-二芳基丁二烯衍生物:
1,1-二羧基-(2,2’-二甲基丙基)-4,4-二苯基丁二烯。
优选的为:
丁基甲氧基二苯甲酰甲烷
2-(4-二乙基氨基-2-羟基苯甲酰)苯甲酸正己酯。
在能吸收280-320nm的UV辐射的亲油性有机UV-B掩蔽剂中,可提及:
对氨基苯甲酸酯(PABA):
乙基PABA
乙基二羟丙基PABA
乙基己基二甲基PABA(来自ISP的Escalol 507)
水杨酸衍生物:
高甲基水杨酸酯(homosalate),Rona/EM Industries以名称“EusolexHMS”出售,
水杨酸乙基己酯,Haarmann and Reimer以名称“Neo HeliopanOS”出售,
水杨酸二丙二醇酯,Scher以名称“Dipsal”出售,
TEA水杨酸酯,Haarmann and Reimer以名称“Neo Heliopan TS”出售,
肉桂酸酯:
甲氧基肉桂酸乙基己酯,特别是Hoffmann-La Roche以商品名“Parsol MCX”出售,
甲氧基肉桂酸异丙酯,
甲氧基肉桂酸异戊酯,Haarmann and Reimer以商品名“NeoHeliopan E 1000”出售,
甲基肉桂酸二异丙酯,
甲氧基肉桂酸乙基己酯,
甘油乙基己酸酯二甲氧基肉桂酸酯,
β,β’-二苯基丙烯酸酯衍生物:
Octocrylene,特别是BASF以商品名“Uvinul N539”出售,
Etocrylene,特别是BASF以商品名“Uvinul N35”出售,
亚苄基樟脑衍生物:
3-亚苄基樟脑,Chimex生产,名为“Mexoryl SD”,
甲基亚苄基樟脑,Merck以名称“Eusolex 6300”出售,
聚丙烯酰胺基甲基亚苄基樟脑,Chimex生产,名为“MexorylSW”,
三嗪衍生物:
乙基己基三嗪酮,特别是BASF以商品名“Uvinul T150”出售,
2,4,6-三(二新戊基4’-氨基苯亚甲基丙二酸酯)-s-三嗪,
2,4,6-三(二异丁基4’-氨基苯亚甲基丙二酸酯)-s-三嗪,
2,4-双(二新戊基4’-氨基苯亚甲基丙二酸酯)-6-(正丁基-4’-氨基苯甲酸酯)-s-三嗪,
2,4-双(正丁基4’-氨基苯甲酸酯)-6-(氨基丙基三硅氧烷)-s-三嗪,
咪唑啉衍生物:
二甲氧基亚苄基二氧代咪唑啉丙酸乙基己酯,
苯亚甲基丙二酸酯衍生物:
包含苯亚甲基丙二酸酯官能团的聚有机硅氧烷,例如Hoffman-La Roche以商品名“Parsol SLX”出售的聚硅氧烷-15,
二新戊基4’-甲氧基苯亚甲基丙二酸酯,
部花青衍生物:
5-N,N-二乙基氨基-2-苯基磺酰-2,4-戊二烯酸辛酯。
优选的为:
高甲基水杨酸酯
水杨酸乙基己酯
甲氧基肉桂酸乙基己酯
奥克立林(Octocrylene)
乙基己基三嗪酮
2,4-双(正丁基4’-氨基苯甲酸酯)-6-(氨基丙基三硅氧烷)-s-三嗪
5-N,N-二乙基氨基-2-苯基磺酰-2,4-戊二烯酸辛酯。
在能吸收UV-A和UV-B辐射的广谱亲油性有机掩蔽剂中,可提及:
二苯甲酮衍生物:
二苯甲酮-1,BASF以商品名“Uvinul 400”出售,
二苯甲酮-2,BASF以商品名“Uvinul D50”出售,
二苯甲酮-3或氧苯酮,BASF以商品名“Uvinul M40”出售,
二苯甲酮-5,
二苯甲酮-6,Norquay以商品名“Helisorb 11”出售,
二苯甲酮-8,American Cyanamid以商品名“Spectra-Sorb UV-24”出售,
二苯甲酮-10,
二苯甲酮-11,
二苯甲酮-12,
苯并***衍生物:
甲酚曲唑(Drometrizole)三硅氧烷,Rhodia Chimie以名称“Silatrizole”出售,
布美***(Bumetrizole),Ciba-Geigy以名称“Tinoguard AS”出售,
双间苯二酚基三嗪衍生物:
双-乙基己氧基酚甲氧基苯基三嗪,Ciba Geigy以商品名“TinosorbS”出售,
苯并噁唑衍生物:
2,4-双[5-1(二甲基丙基)苯并噁唑-2-基-(4-苯基)亚氨基]-6-(2-乙基己基)亚氨基-1,3,5-三嗪,Sigma 3以名称Uvasorb K2A出售。
优选的为:
二苯甲酮-3
甲酚曲唑三硅氧烷
双-乙基己氧基酚甲氧基苯基三嗪。
亲油性有机掩蔽剂通常以占组合物总重量的0.1-50%重量、优选以占组合物总重量的2-30%重量的比例存在于根据本发明的组合物中。
根据本发明的一个特别优选的形式,组合物将是透明的且用来自HACH的2100P浊度计设备(待确认)测得的25℃下的浊度优选低于1000NTU(比浊法浊度单位)、更优选低于50NTU、还更优选低于15NTU。
根据本发明的一个特别优选的形式,组合物的UV-APPD PF将高于5;其因此符合规章要求,特别是要求SPF/PPD比率低于3的欧洲规章。
添加剂
本发明的油性组合物产品可还包含各种可溶于油相中或可分散于所述油相中的添加剂,所述添加剂特别是选自亲油性染料、亲油性活性成分、除本发明的聚酰胺缩聚物外的亲油性聚合物、有机溶剂、防腐剂、昆虫驱避剂、精油、香精、润肤剂或推进剂。
在亲油性化妆品活性成分中,可提及例如抗氧化剂;角质层分离剂,例如正烷基水杨酸如5-(正辛酰基)水杨酸;维他命,例如维他命E(生育酚及衍生物)或维他命A(视黄醇及衍生物);软化剂及皮肤或毛发护理中常用的任何亲油性活性剂。
作为其他亲油性聚合物,可提及衍生自苯乙烯的嵌段共聚物,例如苯乙烯/乙烯-丁烯/苯乙烯共聚物,如Kraton Polymers以名称Kraton
G-1650E出售的产品;丙烯酸或甲基丙烯酸共聚物,如Shin-Etsu以名称KP 561P出售的丙烯酸酯/硬脂酰丙烯酸酯/聚二甲基硅氧烷甲基丙烯酸酯共聚物;或聚-C10-30-烷基丙烯酸酯,如Landec以名称Interlimer IPA 13-1出售的产品。
当然,本领域技术人员应小心选择上面提到的任选的其他化合物和/或其量以便根据本发明的组合物所固有的有利性质不或基本不因这样的添加而受到有害影响。
本发明的另一主题在于如上所定义的本发明的组合物在制备用于皮肤、指甲、毛发、睫毛、眉毛和/或头皮的化妆处理的产品特别是护理产品或防晒产品中的用途。
根据本发明的化妆品组合物可例如用作面部和/或身体和/或头发的液体稠度的护理产品和/或防晒产品和/或日常光防护产品和/或化妆产品和/或发用产品。
香精
根据本发明的一个特定形式,本发明的化妆品组合物可形成香气产品并还包含香气物质。
香气产品应理解为指在施用于角蛋白物质后留下香味的任何组合物。
“香气物质”应理解为指能使人的皮肤和角蛋白物质(通常包括皮肤、毛发、头皮、唇或指甲)散发香气的任何香精或芳香物。
作为本发明的组合物中的香气物质,可使用天然或合成来源的香精和芳香物及其混合物。作为天然来源的香精和芳香物,可提及例如花(百合、薰衣草、玫瑰、茉莉、依兰)、茎和叶(广藿香、天竺葵、苦橙)、果(芫荽、茴香、枯茗、杜松子)、果皮(香柠檬、柠檬、橙)、根(当归、芹菜、小豆蔻、鸢尾、白菖蒲)、木材(松木、檀香木、愈疮木脂、粉色杉木)、草和禾本科(龙蒿、柠檬草、鼠尾草、百里香)、针和枝(云杉、冷杉、松、中欧山松)或树脂和香膏(古篷香脂、榄香脂、安息香胶、没药树脂、乳香脂、愈伤草树脂)的提取物。
作为合成来源的香气物质,可提及例如酯、醚、醛、酮、芳族醇和烃类型的化合物。
作为酯,可特别是提及乙酸苄酯、苯甲酸苄酯、异丁酸苯氧基乙酯、乙酸对-(叔丁基)环己酯、乙酸香茅酯、甲酸香茅酯、乙酸香叶酯、乙酸里哪醇酯、乙酸二甲基苄基甲酯、乙酸苯乙酯、苯甲酸里哪醇酯、甲酸苄酯、甘氨酸乙基甲基苯基酯、丙酸烷基环己基酯、丙酸苏合香酯和水杨酸苄酯。
作为醚,可提及苄基乙基醚。
作为醛,可提及例如包含8-18个碳原子的直链正构醛、柠檬醛、香茅醛、香茅基氧基乙醛、仙客来醛、羟基香茅醛、铃兰醛和对叔丁基苯丙醛。
作为酮,可提及例如紫罗兰酮如α-异甲基紫罗兰酮和甲基柏木酮。
在芳族醇和特别是萜烯醇中,可提及茴香脑、香茅醇、丁子香酚、异丁子香酚、香叶醇、里哪醇、苯乙醇和萜品醇。
作为烃,可特别是提及萜烯。这些化合物常以两种或更多种这些有气味物质的混合物的形式存在。
此外,也可使用精油、芳香物的组分,例如鼠尾草、春黄菊、丁香、蜜蜂花香膏、薄荷、肉桂树叶、菩提花、桧柏、香根草、乳香、古篷香脂、岩蔷薇和杂薰衣草的精油。
作为香气物质,可单独或以混合物使用香柠檬精油、二氢月桂烯醇、铃兰醛、新铃兰醛、香茅醇、苯乙醇、α-己基肉桂醛、香叶醇、苄基丙酮、仙客来醛、里哪醇、龙涎呋喃(ambroxan)、吲哚、二氢茉莉酮酸甲酯(hedione)、sandelice、柠檬精油、桔子精油和橙子精油、烯丙胺甘醇酸酯、cyclovertal、杂薰衣草精油、鼠尾草精油、β-大马酮、天竺葵精油、水杨酸环己酯、苯乙酸、乙酸香叶酯、乙酸苄酯或氧化玫瑰。
也可使用不同香气物质的混合物,这些不同的香气物质一起产生令使用者愉快的香调。在熟知的嗅觉香调中,可提及橙皮苷香精、芳香香精、花香香精、麝香香精、果香香精、辛香香精、东方香香精、海洋香香精、水香香精、素心兰香香精、木香香精、馥奇香香精及其混合物。
香气物质的量优选占组合物总重量的5-25%重量、更好是10-20%重量。
其他着色剂
根据本发明的一个特定形式,本发明的组合物还包含一种或多种其他着色剂。
所述其他着色剂也可选自合成或天然直接染料。所述染料可为有机或无机染料。
合成或天然脂溶性有机染料有例如DC红7、DC红21、DC红27、DC绿6、DC黄11、DC紫2、DC橙5、苏丹红、胡萝卜素(β-胡萝卜素、番茄红素)、叶黄素(辣椒红素、辣椒玉红素、黄体素)、棕榈油、苏丹棕、喹啉黄、胭脂红或姜黄素。
所述其他着色剂也可选自颗粒着色材料,所述颗粒着色材料优选选自颜料、珠光剂或干涉颜料、或闪光剂。
颜料应理解为指不溶于生理介质中、意在对组合物着色的任何形状的白色或有色无机或有机颗粒。
所述颜料可为白色或有色、无机和/或有机的。在无机颜料中,可提及任选经表面处理的二氧化钛、锆或铈氧化物、及锌、铁(铁黑、铁黄或铁红)或铬氧化物、锰紫、群青、铬水合物、铁蓝或金属粉如铝粉或铜粉。
在有机颜料中,可提及碳黑、D&C类型的颜料及基于胭脂虫红的、钡、锶、钙或铝的色淀。
也可提及效应颜料如包含有机或无机、天然或合成的基材如玻璃、丙烯酸类树脂、聚酯、聚氨酯、聚对苯二甲酸乙二醇酯、陶瓷或氧化铝的颗粒,所述基材被或未被覆以金属物质如铝、金、银、铂、铜或青铜或金属氧化物如二氧化钛、氧化铁、氧化铬及其混合物。
在本发明的意义内,表述“干涉颗粒或珠光剂”指通常具有多层结构以便可通过随层的性质而不同地衍射和散射的光线的干涉而产生颜色效应的任何颗粒。所获得的着色效应与这些颗粒的层状结构有关并源自薄层光学的自然法则(参见:Pearl Lustre Pigments-Physicalprinciples,properties,applications(珠光颜料-物理原理、性质、应用)-R.Maisch and M.Weigand.Verlag Moderne Industrie)。因此,这些颗粒呈现的颜色可随观察角度和光入射角而异。
在本发明的意义内,多层结构无差别地意在指由覆有至少两个、甚至多个连续的层的基材形成的结构。
所述多层结构可因此包含一个层、甚至至少两个层,各层彼此独立或不独立地由至少一种选自如下材料的材料制成:MgF2、CeF3、ZnS、ZnSe、Si、SiO2、Ge、Te、Fe2O3、Pt、Va、Al2O3、MgO、Y2O3、S2O3、SiO、HfO2、ZrO2、CeO2、Nb2O5、Ta2O5、TiO2、Ag、Al、Au、Cu、Rb、Ti、Ta、W、Zn、MoS2、冰晶石、合金、聚合物及其组合。
通常,所述多层结构是无机性质的。
更特别地,按本发明考虑的干涉颗粒可为干涉颜料或也可为天然或合成的单层或多层珠光剂,特别是由尤其基于覆有一个或多个金属氧化物层的云母的天然基材所形成的那些。
根据本发明的干涉颗粒的特征在于,用激光粒度仪如来自Malvernet的2000或来自Brookhaven InstrumentCorporation的测得,50%重量的颗粒群的直径(d50)小于40μm、更特别是小于30μm、特别是小于20μm、尤其是小于15μm。
云母/氧化锡/氧化钛类型的珠光剂如Merck以名称Timiron SilkTimiron SilkTimiron SilkTimiron Silk和Timiron Super出售的那些及云母/氧化铁/氧化钛珠光剂如Engelhard提供的Flamenco SatinFlamenco SatinFlamenco Satin和Flamenco Orange 320C非常特别适合本发明。
更具体而言,这些颜料可以占组合物总重量的0.01-10%重量、优选0.1-5%重量的量存在。
可气化组合物
根据本发明的组合物可以可气化的油的形式提供并通过加压设备以细粒的形式施用于皮肤或毛发。根据本发明的设备是本领域技术人员熟知的,包括非气溶胶泵或“雾化器”、包含推进器的气溶胶容器及使用压缩空气作为推进剂的气溶胶泵。后者见述于专利US 4 077441和US 4 850 517中(构成本说明书的内容的不可分割的部分)。
这些组合物也可浸渍到擦巾类型的载体上或其可以洗剂包装在带渐缩管的瓶中。
包装为气溶胶的根据本发明的组合物通常包含常规推进剂如氢氟化物、二氯二氟甲烷、二氟乙烷、二甲醚、异丁烷、正丁烷、丙烷或三氯氟甲烷。其优选以占组合物总重量的15-50%重量的量存在。
下面给出具体但非限制性的实施例以说明本发明。
实施例
制备5个无水制剂实施例1-5。量以占组合物总重量的%重量表示。
制备组合物1-5的程序如下:
相A通过混合起始原料制备,混合物在搅拌下于90-95℃下加热直至起始原料完全溶解。搅拌下将混合物冷却至25℃。随后在搅拌下于25℃引入相B直至混合物完全均相。
对于各个组合物,评估如下方面:
(1)粘度,用Rheomat 180粘度计于25℃下在200rpm的转速下转动30秒后测定
(2)于4、25和45℃下贮存2月后的稳定性
(3)24小时后组合物的外观
(4)按Colipa/CTFA SA/JCIA(2006年5月)出版的国际方法对5名受试者测试体内SPF
(5)按JCIA的推荐方法(1995年11月15日版)对5名受试者测试UV-APPD PF。
结果在下表1和2中示出:
表1
表2
因此这些油在不同温度(4、25、45℃)下贮存2月后是稳定的。其具有可气化且化妆品上令人愉悦的优势。获得的SPF值高于15,这与实施例1和2不相同。
Claims (21)
1.一种无水流体组合物,所述组合物在化妆品可接受的介质中包含:
a)至少一种烃油,占组合物总重量的30-99.8%重量,和
b)至少一种亲油性有机UV掩蔽剂,占组合物总重量的0.1-50%重量,和
c)至少一种直链C1-C3一元醇,占组合物总重量的2-10%重量,和
d)至少一种亲油性聚酰胺缩聚物,占组合物总重量的0.1-15%重量,
其中所述流体组合物应理解为指不以固体形式存在且用Rheomat180粘度计于25℃下在200rpm的转速下转动30秒后测得的粘度低于0.5Pa·s的组合物。
2.根据权利要求1的组合物,其中所述亲油性聚酰胺缩聚物选自下式(A)的聚合物:
其中:
n为1-30的整数,
R’1在各情况下独立地代表脂肪链并选自具有至少一个碳原子的烷基或烯基;
R'2在各情况下独立地代表包含1-52个碳原子的烃基;
R'3在各情况下独立地代表包含至少一个选自碳、氢或氮原子的原子的有机基团,条件是R'3包含至少3个碳原子;
R'4在各情况下独立地代表氢原子、包含1-10个碳原子的烷基或与至少一个选自R'3和另一R'4的基团的直接键以便当所述基团为另一R'4时连接R'3和R'4的氮原子形成R'4-N-R'3所定义的杂环结构的一部分,条件是至少50%的R'4基团代表氢原子,和
L代表连接基,选自任选被至少一个如上所定义的R’1基团所取代的酯、醚、胺、脲、氨酯、硫酯、硫醚、硫脲或硫氨酯。
3.根据权利要求2的组合物,其中R’1在各情况下独立地代表脂肪链并选自具有4-24个碳原子的烷基或烯基。
4.根据权利要求2的组合物,其中所述亲油性聚酰胺缩聚物选自其中所述连接基L代表酯基的式(A)聚合物。
5.根据权利要求4的组合物,其中所述亲油性聚酰胺缩聚物对应于下式(B):
其中:
-m表示为整数的酰胺单元数,所述酰胺单元数使酯基数占酯和酰胺基团的总数的10%到50%;
-R1在各情况下独立地为具有至少4个碳原子的烷基或烯基;
-R2在各情况下独立地代表C4-C42烃基,条件是50%的R2基团代表C30-C42烃基;
-R3在各情况下独立地代表具有至少两个碳原子、具有氢原子并任选具有一个或多个氧或氮原子的有机基团;
-R4在各情况下独立地代表氢原子、C1-C10烷基或与R3或另一R4的直接键以便连接R3和R4的氮原子形成R4-N-R3所定义的杂环结构的一部分,其中至少50%的R4基团代表氢原子。
6.根据权利要求5的组合物,其中R1在各情况下独立地为具有4-24个碳原子的烷基或烯基。
7.根据权利要求5的组合物,其中所述式(B)的缩聚物为C36二酸与乙二胺的缩合共聚物的共混物;端酯基自剩余的酸端基被鲸蜡醇、硬脂醇或其混合物酯化而产生,INCI名称为乙二胺/硬脂基二聚二亚油酸酯共聚物。
8.根据权利要求2的组合物,其中所述式(A)的缩聚物为包含至少一个经由至少一个叔酰胺连接基与聚合物主链相连的端脂肪链的缩聚物。
9.根据权利要求8的组合物,其中所述缩聚物为氢化二亚油酸、乙二胺和二(C14-C18)烷基胺的共聚物,INCI名称为乙二胺/氢化二聚二亚油酸酯共聚物双-二-C14-C18烷基酰胺。
10.根据权利要求2的组合物,其中所述式(A)的缩聚物为包含酯端基的聚(酯-酰胺)。
11.根据权利要求10的组合物,其中所述缩聚物为氢化二亚油酸、乙二胺、新戊二醇和硬脂醇的共聚物,INCI名称为双硬脂基乙二胺/新戊二醇/硬脂醇氢化二聚二亚油酸酯共聚物。
12.根据权利要求1-11中任一项的组合物,其中所述烃油以占组合物总重量的40-90%重量的浓度存在于根据权利要求1-11中任一项的组合物中。
13.根据权利要求1-11中任一项的组合物,其中所述亲油性有机掩蔽剂选自对氨基苯甲酸酯、高甲基水杨酸酯、水杨酸乙基己酯、水杨酸二丙二醇酯、TEA水杨酸酯、甲氧基肉桂酸乙基己酯、甲氧基肉桂酸异丙酯、甲氧基肉桂酸异戊酯、甲基肉桂酸二异丙酯、甲氧基肉桂酸乙基己酯、甘油乙基己酸酯二甲氧基肉桂酸酯、二苯甲酮或氨基二苯甲酮、邻氨基苯甲酸薄荷酯、4-异丙基二苯甲酰甲烷、1-(4-甲氧基-1-苯并呋喃-5-基)-3-苯基丙烷-1,3-二酮、1-(4-(叔丁基)苯基)-3-(2-羟基苯基)丙烷-1,3-二酮、丁基甲氧基二苯甲酰甲烷、奥克立林、依托立林、3-亚苄基樟脑、甲基亚苄基樟脑、聚丙烯酰胺基甲基亚苄基樟脑、甲酚曲唑三硅氧烷、布美***、乙基己基三嗪酮、2,4,6-三(二新戊基4’-氨基苯亚甲基丙二酸酯)-s-三嗪、2,4,6-三(二异丁基4’-氨基苯亚甲基丙二酸酯)-s-三嗪、2,4-双(二新戊基4’-氨基苯亚甲基丙二酸酯)-6-(正丁基-4’-氨基苯甲酸酯)-s-三嗪、2,4-双(正丁基4’-氨基苯甲酸酯)-6-(氨基丙基三硅氧烷)-s-三嗪、双-乙基己氧基酚甲氧基苯基三嗪、二甲氧基亚苄基二氧代咪唑啉丙酸乙基己酯、包含苯亚甲基丙二酸酯官能团的聚有机硅氧烷、二新戊基4’-甲氧基苯亚甲基丙二酸酯、1,1-二羧基-(2,2’-二甲基丙基)-4,4-二苯基丁二烯、2,4-双[5-1(二甲基丙基)苯并唑-2-基-(4-苯基)亚氨基]-6-(2-乙基己基)亚氨基-1,3,5-三嗪、部花青及其混合物。
14.根据权利要求1-11中任一项的组合物,其中所述直链C1-C3一元醇为乙醇。
15.根据权利要求1-11中任一项的组合物,其特征在于其是透明的且在25℃下的浊度低于1000NTU。
16.根据权利要求15中的组合物,其特征在于其在25℃下的浊度低于50NTU。
17.根据权利要求15中的组合物,其特征在于其在25℃下的浊度低于15NTU。
18.根据权利要求1-11中任一项的组合物,其特征在于其SPF高于10。
19.根据权利要求18的组合物,其特征在于其SPF高于15。
20.根据权利要求18的组合物,其特征在于其SPF高于20。
21.根据权利要求1-11中任一项的组合物,其特征在于其UV-AppD PF高于5和/或SPF/PPD比率低于3。
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US3895104A (en) * | 1972-06-13 | 1975-07-15 | Avon Prod Inc | Sunscreening method and composition containing film forming polyamide material |
CN1680462A (zh) * | 1999-01-04 | 2005-10-12 | 亚利桑那化学品公司 | 叔酰胺封端的聚酰胺及其应用 |
CN1602185A (zh) * | 2000-12-12 | 2005-03-30 | 欧莱雅股份有限公司 | 包含杂聚物和油溶性脂的组合物及其使用方法 |
US6875245B2 (en) * | 2001-05-14 | 2005-04-05 | Arizona Chemical Company | Ester-terminated poly(ester-amides) in personal care products |
Also Published As
Publication number | Publication date |
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US8628757B2 (en) | 2014-01-14 |
US20100310481A1 (en) | 2010-12-09 |
FR2943541B1 (fr) | 2011-04-22 |
JP6030279B2 (ja) | 2016-11-24 |
EP2236173B2 (fr) | 2015-11-25 |
BRPI1000950A2 (pt) | 2011-04-26 |
CN101849895A (zh) | 2010-10-06 |
BRPI1000950B1 (pt) | 2017-05-23 |
JP2016193939A (ja) | 2016-11-17 |
JP2010241793A (ja) | 2010-10-28 |
BRPI1000950B8 (pt) | 2017-06-13 |
EP2236173B1 (fr) | 2012-08-22 |
ES2393655T3 (es) | 2012-12-27 |
EP2236173A1 (fr) | 2010-10-06 |
ES2393655T5 (es) | 2016-03-15 |
FR2943541A1 (fr) | 2010-10-01 |
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