CN101545175A - A warp knitting method for double-color jacquard seamless fabric - Google Patents
A warp knitting method for double-color jacquard seamless fabric Download PDFInfo
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Abstract
The invention discloses a warp knitting method for double-color jacquard seamless fabric. The concrete process is as follows: first, determining basic knitting process; each of front and back needle bed uses one ground guide bar for knitting base cloth and two jacquard guide bar for knitting main jacquard pattern and connection tissue for front and back sheet; second, determining overlap of main pattern formed by jacquard comb and corresponding motion information of jacquard needle, combines corresponding basic motion information of jacquard needle; finally, determining overlap of edge of front and back sheets and motion information of jacquard needle by adopting superposition method. The invention adopts special machine configuration and specific process, knits double-color seamless fabric, completes warp knitting jacquard seamless fabric with concurrent structural effect and color effect. The seamless fabric of the inventive method has a solid pattern and outstanding layers, rich color, variable structural effect, massive thickness, thereby largely promoting market competitive force of seamless fabric.
Description
Technical field:
The present invention relates to a kind of warp-knitted fabric braid method, relate in particular to a kind of through compiling the braid method of double-color jacquard seamless fabric.
Background technology:
Jacquard seamless fabric has two kinds of production methods, and a kind of is through the volume method, and a kind of is weft-knitted method.Utilize the Jacquard figured texture weave to form abundant jacquard weave structure effect through the volume method, the limit portion that utilizes special company's limit technology to form " flawless " connects, and fabric is based on plain color.Weft knitting method utilizes full-jacquard mechanism that the yarn of different colours is selected to form abundant jacquard weave color effect, and fabric structure is then fairly simple.
In order to obtain high-grade more seamless fabric, people wish abundant structures effect and colour effect are combined.Make lining obtain certain colour effect and can pass through methods such as dyeing, stamp, but seamless fabric belongs to ready-made clothes, is not suitable for adopting this type of mode.Therefore, existing jacquard seamless fabric production method can not form and have the fabric that enriches structure and color effect concurrently, needs a kind of new production method of invention to satisfy the demand of people to high-quality seamless fabric.
Summary of the invention:
The present invention is directed to above technical deficiency, on the basis of warp-knitting jacquard seamless fabric production technology, invented a kind of double-color jacquard seamless fabric weaving, this technology can realize that not only the perfection of limit portion connects, and can form abundant more clour effect, the technology utilization double-color jacquard carries out clear delineating with main body decorative pattern and base fabric decorative pattern, has solved that the seamless fabric color is single, the unconspicuous problem of main body effect of decorative patterns.
For realizing above purpose, the technical solution used in the present invention is:
Preliminary preparation is: before (1) stood in machine with the people, facing machine was as the judgment standard of direction; (2) use two, four or six sley bar, wherein 2 separate type Jacquard comb done half plane No. dispose relatively, formation 4 is half plane No. jacquard guide bar, is positioned at middlely, is balanced configuration; (3) knitting needle on the needle-bar 1 is adorned 1 sky, from heading (right side) to tail direction (left side), so the knitting needle needle gap be numbered 0,2,4 ... needle gap is numbered, and this numbering can be filled up the description of yarn motion with opposing; (4) for preceding needle-bar jacquard weave comb, each root knitting needle banking stop on the right side is called right contact, and this state is regarded initial non-migration state as, and the lateral confinement bit slice that keeps left is called left side contact, and this state is regarded shift state as; For back needle-bar jacquard weave comb, each root knitting needle lateral confinement bit slice that keeps left is initial non-migration state, and banking stop is called shift state on the right side; (5) when the knitting needle non-migration,, when knitting needle is offset, represent with information " T " with information " H " expression; Two lines of (6) two jacquard guide bar braidings form an effect unit, use a color grid (artistic conception lattice) expression.Weaving effect unit needs 16 jacquard informations, and promptly each effect unit of jacquard guide bar braiding needs 8 jacquard informations, before each pin of front and back needle-bar and underlap, all needs a jacquard information.Eight information of A1 ~ A8 be near one before the machine the jacquard information of jacquard guide bar, eight information of B1 ~ B8 are the jacquard information of jacquard guide bar away from one before the machine.
Concrete technological process is:
(1) determine basic weaving: for through compiling double-color jacquard seamless fabric, the front and back needle-bar respectively uses 1 ground sley bar to weave basic base fabric, and each uses 2 jacquard guide bar braiding main body elaborate pattern and front and back sheet conjunctive tissue.Each sley bar pad yarn elementary organization is as follows:
Preceding needle-bar ground comb GB2:2-0-0-0/0-2-2-2//
Preceding needle-bar jacquard weave comb JB3.1:2-0-2-2/2-4-2-2//
Preceding needle-bar jacquard weave comb JB3.2:2-0-2-2/2-4-2-2//
Back needle-bar jacquard weave comb JB4.1:2-2-2-4/2-2-2-0//
Back needle-bar jacquard weave comb JB4.2:2-2-2-4/2-2-2-0//
Back needle-bar ground comb GB5:0-0-0-2/2-2-2-0//
Two jacquard guide bars in front (JB3.1 and JB3.2) cooperate braiding, and the sley point on the jacquard guide bar mainly forms the anter jacquard weave, a few pieces of needle knitting limit portion conjunctive tissues.Next two jacquard guide bars (JB4.1 and JB4.2) cooperate braiding, and the sley point on the jacquard guide bar mainly forms the rear panel jacquard weave, a few pieces of needle knitting limit portion conjunctive tissues.The figured texture weave on sheet top layer is formed by middle two jacquard guide bars (JB3.2 and JB4.1) braiding before and after the fabric, and the figured texture weave of sheet bottom is formed by two jacquard guide bars in the outside (JB3.1 and JB4.2) braiding before and after the fabric.
(2) determine before main body decorative pattern pad yarn motion that one or two jacquard weave comb shape becomes and the corresponding knitting needle action message on the needle-bar that a basic skew tissue that the jacquard weave comb shape is become and the action message of its knitting needle are:
Basic thin tissue: 2-0-2-2/2-4-2-2//(HHHH/HHHH/ /)
Change thick tissue: 2-0-2-2/4-6-2-2//(HHHH/TTHH/ /)
Change mesh tissue: 4-2-2-2/2-4-2-2//(TTHH/HHHH/ /)
Change thin tissue: 4-2-2-2/4-6-2-2//(TTHH/TTHH/ /)
When JB3.1 and JB3.2 braiding main body decorative pattern,, can generate 16 kinds of anter main body decorative pattern action messages with the elemental motion information combination of above-mentioned corresponding knitting needle.
A basic skew tissue that the jacquard weave comb shape is become and the action message of its knitting needle are on the back needle-bar:
Basic thin tissue: 2-2-2-4/2-2-2-0//(HHHH/HHHH/ /)
Change thick tissue: 4-4-4-6/2-2-2-0//(HHHH/HHTT/ /)
Change mesh tissue: 0-0-0-2/2-2-2-0//(HHTT/HHHH/ /)
Change thin tissue: 4-4-4-6/4-4-4-2/ // (HHTT/HHTT/ /)
When JB4.1 and JB4.2 braiding main body decorative pattern,, can generate 16 kinds of rear panel main body decorative pattern action messages with the elemental motion information combination of above-mentioned corresponding knitting needle.
(3) the pad yarn of determining garment piece limit, front and back portion moves and the knitting needle action message
Determining of pad yarn motion of limit portion and knitting needle action message is the method that adopts stack, at first determine portion top layer, fabric limit and nexine elementary organization separately, carry out compound according to garment piece limit portion jacquard information thick, thin tissue before and after the monochromatic seamless fabric: JB3.1 and JB3.2 are an artistic conception unit, and JB4.1 and JB4.2 are an artistic conception unit.
When right edge portion top layer (nexine) was basic thin tissue, the rightest one piece of knitting needle of front cut pieces JB3.2 (JB3.1) carried out special pad yarn, connected needle-bar backward by preceding needle-bar, the jacquard weave control information be HTHT/HHHH//.When left side portion top layer (nexine) was basic thin tissue, the first from left piece knitting needle of rear garment piece JB4.1 (JB4.2) carried out special pad yarn, connected needle-bar forward by the back needle-bar, the jacquard weave control information be HTHT/HHHH//.
When right edge portion top layer (nexine) is when changing thick organizing, front and back garment piece JB3.2 and the rightest one piece of knitting needle of JB4.1 (JB3.1 and JB4.2) all carry out special pad yarn, respectively by behind the forward direction with by after be connected forward, anter JB3.2 (JB3.1) jacquard weave control information be HTHT/TTHH//, rear panel JB4.1 (JB4.2) jacquard weave control information be HHHH/THTH//.When left side portion when changing thick organizing, anter JB3.2 (JB3.1) jacquard weave control information be HHHH/THTH//, rear panel JB4.1 (JB4.2) jacquard weave control information be HTHT/HHTT//.
The advantage of patent of the present invention is: (1) adopts special machines configurations, weaves double-colored seamless fabric, realizes having concurrently the warp-knitting jacquard seamless fabric of structure effect and colour effect.(2) use effect unit of 16 jacquard information braidings, not only enriched organizational structure of fabrics, and realized that the perfection of seamless fabric limit portion connects.(3) utilize the skew of knitting needle to carry out the seamless link of fabric limit portion, simplified the sley bar quantity that is used for connecting the limit.(4) the fabric body decorative pattern carries out difference skew by 2 jacquard guide bar sley points and forms, colored type rich color, make a distinction between the important and the lesser one, clear layer.(5) comb and adopt cotton, polyamide fibre, terylene, the jacquard weave comb adopts raw materials such as polyamide fibre, terylene, cotton ammonia, bright and beautiful ammonia, can improve fabric property and class.(6) utilize the jacquard process braiding can improve machine speed greatly, thereby enhance productivity.
Description of drawings:
Fig. 1 is machines configurations figure of the present invention;
Fig. 2 is knitting needle offset sequence definition figure of the present invention;
Wherein: (1) is the artistic conception grid; (2) be the weaving example; (3) be the offset sequence definition;
A1, A2 be preceding Jacquard comb before the odd number line before the needle-bar pin, the underlap sequence;
A3, A4 be preceding Jacquard comb after the odd number line before the needle-bar pin, the underlap sequence;
A5, A6 be preceding Jacquard comb before the even number line before the needle-bar pin, the underlap sequence;
A7, A8 be preceding Jacquard comb after the even number line before the needle-bar pin, the underlap sequence;
B1-B8 is the defined nucleotide sequence of back Jacquard comb, and its definition is identical with the definition of preceding Jacquard comb.
The specific embodiment:
Be woven to example with a bright and beautiful ammonia seam-free pantyhose, implement to divide following step.
As shown in Figure 1, carrying out preliminary preparation earlier is: before (1) stood in machine with the people, facing machine was as the judgment standard of direction; (2) use two, four or six sley bar, wherein 2 separate type Jacquard comb done half plane No. dispose relatively, formation 4 is half plane No. jacquard guide bar, is positioned at middlely, is balanced configuration; (3) knitting needle on the needle-bar 1 is adorned 1 sky, from heading (right side) to tail direction (left side), so the knitting needle needle gap be numbered 0,2,4 ... needle gap is numbered, and this numbering can be filled up the description of yarn motion with opposing.
A, selected raw material:
Preceding needle-bar ground comb GB2:56dtex (40f) polyamide fibre
Preceding needle-bar jacquard weave comb JB3.1:56dtex (40f) polyamide fibre+22dtex spandex wrap yarn
Preceding needle-bar jacquard weave comb JB3.1:56dtex (72f) terylene+22dtex spandex wrap yarn
Back needle-bar jacquard weave comb JB4.1:56dtex (72f) terylene+22dtex spandex wrap yarn
Back needle-bar jacquard weave comb JB4.1:56dtex (40f) polyamide fibre+22dtex spandex wrap yarn
Back needle-bar ground comb GB5:56dtex (40f) polyamide fibre
B, the traversing floral disc of customization or arrangement chain piece:
Select the two-needle bar electronic Jacquard warp knitting machine of West Germany's import for use, type is RDPJ6/2, perhaps selects homemade RDT6/2 for use, and plane No. is E24 (per inch 24 pins), and several 6 of sley bar uses 4 during braiding, and 2 comb ground, and 2 the separate type jacquard guide bar.Wherein 2 are half plane No. configuration to the separate type jacquard guide bar, form 4 jacquard guide bar), floral disc is several 6, and machine speed is controlled at about 800rpm during braiding.This accuracy of machines height, knitting property is good, can use the braiding of high-grade elastomeric yarn.
Preceding needle-bar ground comb GB2:2-0-0-0/0-2-2-2//
Preceding needle-bar jacquard weave comb JB3.1:2-0-2-2/2-4-2-2//
Preceding needle-bar jacquard weave comb JB3.2:2-0-2-2/2-4-2-2//
Back needle-bar jacquard weave comb JB4.1:2-2-2-4/2-2-2-0//
Back needle-bar jacquard weave comb JB4.2:2-2-2-4/2-2-2-0//
Back needle-bar ground comb GB5:0-0-0-2/2-2-2-0//
A braiding circulation is 2 lines in this technology.
Type is spent in c, design, defines the action message of each piece knitting needle in each sequence:
Use warp-knitted fabric CAD system (WKCAD3.0) design flower type, wide as spending with the stringer number, half of line number is as spending height, and different effect unit uses different color showings, thereby forms the jacquard weave effect bitmap (plan of weave) of flower type.It is 192 that this example is spent wide, and spending height is 2176.As shown in Figure 2, main body decorative pattern pad yarn moves and with corresponding knitting needle action message is:
Before on the needle-bar a basic skew tissue that the jacquard weave comb shape is become and the action message of its knitting needle be:
Basic thin tissue: 2-0-2-2/2-4-2-2//(HHHH/HHHH/)
Change thick tissue: 2-0-2-2/4-6-2-2//(HHHH/TTHH/ /)
Change mesh tissue: 4-2-2-2/2-4-2-2//(TTHH/HHHH/ /)
Change thin tissue: 4-2-2-2/4-6-2-2//(TTHH/TTHH/ /)
When JB3.1 and JB3.2 braiding main body decorative pattern,, can generate 16 kinds of anter main body decorative pattern action messages with the elemental motion information combination of above-mentioned corresponding knitting needle.
A basic skew tissue that the jacquard weave comb shape is become and the action message of its knitting needle are on the back needle-bar:
Basic thin tissue: 2-2-2-4/2-2-2-0//(HHHH/HHHH/ /)
Change thick tissue: 4-4-4-6/2-2-2-0//(HHHH/HHTT/ /)
Change mesh tissue: 0-0-0-2/2-2-2-0//(HHTT/HHHH/ /)
Change thin tissue: 4-4-4-6/4-4-4-2/ // (HHTT/HHTT/ /)
When JB4.1 and JB4.2 braiding main body decorative pattern,, can generate 16 kinds of rear panel main body decorative pattern action messages with the elemental motion information combination of above-mentioned corresponding knitting needle.
The motion of pad yarn and the knitting needle action message of limit portion are: described, when right edge portion top layer (nexine) is basic thin tissue, the rightest one piece of knitting needle of front cut pieces JB3.2 (JB3.1) carries out special pad yarn, connects needle-bar backward by preceding needle-bar, the jacquard weave control information be HTHT/HHHH//; When left side portion top layer (nexine) was basic thin tissue, the first from left piece knitting needle of rear garment piece JB4.1 (JB4.2) carried out special pad yarn, connected needle-bar forward by the back needle-bar, the jacquard weave control information be HTHT/HHHH//.Described, when right edge portion top layer (nexine) is when changing thick organizing, front and back garment piece JB3.2 and the rightest one piece of knitting needle of JB4.1 (JB3.1 and JB4.2) all carry out special pad yarn, respectively by behind the forward direction with by after be connected forward, anter JB3.2 (JB3.1) jacquard weave control information be HTHT/TTHH//, rear panel JB4.1 (JB4.2) jacquard weave control information be HHHH/THTH//; When left side portion when changing thick organizing, anter JB3.2 (JB3.1) jacquard weave control information be HHHH/THTH//, rear panel JB4.1 (JB4.2) jacquard weave control information be HTHT/HHTT//.
D, determine the fabric width parameter, pass information:
Two ground comb GB2, GB5 equal 1 wear 1 sky in this technology, and 4 all completely wear half plane No. jacquard guide bar JB3.1, JB3.2, JB4.1, JB4.2, can produce several seamless double-colored pantyhose simultaneously according to the fabric width of machine.Suppose that the machine fabric width is 138 inches, then total needle amount is 138 * 24 ÷ 2=1656 pins, can produce 8 these seam-free pantyhoses simultaneously at most.
E, rear finishing duplex process flow:
Openpore check → send out dyeing workshop → preboarding (decatize under the certain vacuum condition) → pre-treatment → dyeing → post processing → oven dry setting → arrangement → inspection of semifinished product → a small amount of cutting to make → finished product inspection → finishing and packing warehouse-in.
F, fabric quality control:
Use the fabric quality parameter of this technology as follows:
On the machine horizontal close (wpc): 4.7
On the machine vertical close (cpc): 32
Finished product horizontal stroke close (wpc): 22
Finished product is indulged close (cpc): 32
The present invention adopts special machines configurations and special process, and two jacquard guide bars of wearing different colours yarn A, B are cooperatively interacted, and forms seamless double-color jacquard fabric.When dyed yarn A braiding spacer screen, dyed yarn B both can weave spacer screen, also can weave the main body decorative pattern; When dyed yarn B braiding spacer screen, dyed yarn A both can weave spacer screen, also can weave the main body decorative pattern.Two kinds of alternately braidings of dyed yarn, the fabric effect change of formation is infinite.The three-dimensional level of the seamless fabric decorative pattern of this method braiding is outstanding, rich color, structure effect change various, fabric is abundant, thereby be seamless market injection new vitality, improved the competitiveness in seamless fabric market greatly.
Claims (5)
1, a kind of through compiling the braid method of double-color jacquard seamless fabric, it is characterized in that: described concrete technological process is, determine basic weaving earlier, the front and back needle-bar respectively uses 1 ground sley bar to weave basic base fabric, and each uses 2 jacquard guide bar braiding main body elaborate pattern and front and back sheet conjunctive tissue; Secondly, determine motion of main body decorative pattern pad yarn and the corresponding knitting needle action message that one or two jacquard weave comb shape becomes; At last, determine the motion of pad yarn and the knitting needle action message of garment piece limit, front and back portion.
2, according to claim 1 a kind of through compiling the braid method of double-color jacquard seamless fabric, it is characterized in that: described each sley bar pad yarn elementary organization is: preceding needle-bar ground comb GB2:2-0-0-0/0-2-2-2//; Preceding needle-bar jacquard weave comb JB3.1:2-0-2-2/2-4-2-2//; Preceding needle-bar jacquard weave comb JB3.2:2-0-2-2/2-4-2-2//; Back needle-bar jacquard weave comb JB4.1:2-2-2-4/2-2-2-0//; Back needle-bar jacquard weave comb JB4.2:2-2-2-4/2-2-2-0//; Back needle-bar ground comb GB5:0-0-0-2/2-2-2-0//.
3, according to claim 1 a kind of through compiling the braid method of double-color jacquard seamless fabric, it is characterized in that: determining of pad yarn motion of described garment piece limit portion and knitting needle action message is the method that adopts stack, at first determine portion top layer, fabric limit and nexine elementary organization separately, carry out compound according to garment piece limit portion jacquard information thick, thin tissue before and after the monochromatic seamless fabric: JB3.1 and JB3.2 are an artistic conception unit, and JB4.1 and JB4.2 are an artistic conception unit.
4, according to claim 1 a kind of through compiling the braid method of double-color jacquard seamless fabric, it is characterized in that: the method for attachment of described garment piece limit portion, when garment piece right edge portion top layer or nexine are basic thin tissue, the rightest one piece of knitting needle of front cut pieces JB3.2 or JB3.1 carries out special pad yarn, connect needle-bar backward by preceding needle-bar, the jacquard weave control information be HTHT/HHHH//; When left side portion top layer or nexine were basic thin tissue, the first from left piece knitting needle of rear garment piece JB4.1 or JB4.2 carried out special pad yarn, connects needle-bar forward by the back needle-bar, the jacquard weave control information be HTHT/HHHH//.
5, according to claim 1 a kind of through compiling the braid method of double-color jacquard seamless fabric, it is characterized in that: the method for attachment of described garment piece limit portion, when right edge portion top layer or nexine when changing thick organizing, before and after garment piece JB3.2 and JB4.1 or JB3.1 and JB4.2) the rightest one piece of knitting needle all carries out special pad yarn, respectively by behind the forward direction with by after be connected forward, anter JB3.2 or JB3.1 jacquard weave control information be HTHT/TTHH//, rear panel JB4.1 or JB4.2 jacquard weave control information be HHHH/THTH//; When left side portion when changing thick organizing, anter JB3.2 or JB3.1 jacquard weave control information be HHHH/THTH//, rear panel JB4.1 or JB4.2 jacquard weave control information be HTHT/HHTT//.
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Application publication date: 20090930 |