CN101532199A - Mulberry silk and cuprammonium rayon yarn interwoven fabric and weaving method thereof - Google Patents
Mulberry silk and cuprammonium rayon yarn interwoven fabric and weaving method thereof Download PDFInfo
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- CN101532199A CN101532199A CN200910049036A CN200910049036A CN101532199A CN 101532199 A CN101532199 A CN 101532199A CN 200910049036 A CN200910049036 A CN 200910049036A CN 200910049036 A CN200910049036 A CN 200910049036A CN 101532199 A CN101532199 A CN 101532199A
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- mulberry silk
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Abstract
The invention provides a fabric, in particular to a mulberry silk and cuprammonium rayon yarn interwoven fabric. The fabric is interwoven by the mulberry silk and the cuprammonium rayon yarn, wherein warp is made of the mulberry silk, while weft is made of the cuprammonium rayon. The invention also provides a method for weaving the fabric, which is a method of interweaving the mulberry silk warp and the cuprammonium rayon yarn weft into the fabric, wherein the cuprammonium rayon yarn as the weft is subjected to predrying treatment before use; process steps of the warp and the weft are as follows: the warp adopts reeled silk to be subjected to rolling, primary twisting, doubling, second twisting, skeining, degumming, dyeing, rolling, warping and weaving; and the weft adopts cone winded yarns to be subjected to roll separating, twisting, skeining, dyeing, rolling, quilling, predrying and weaving. The method provides the product interwoven by the mulberry silk and the cuprammonium rayon yarn, and adds new content for colorful silk variety.
Description
Technical field
The present invention relates to a kind of lining and weaving method thereof, particularly relate to lining and weaving method thereof that a kind of mulberry silk and ammonia copper wire interweave.
Background technology
The main component of mulberry silk is protein and contains several amino acids, and it not only has beautiful appearance but also gas permeability, hygroscopicity all to meet needed by human body.Mulberry silk and wool are all azelon, but the form of mulberry silk is that long filament and single fiber fiber number are much thinner than wool, has only about 1.2～2.4 dawn, can be made into yarn as thin as cicada's wings, can be made into colorful thick type overcoat lining again.The lining that is woven into by mulberry silk is made into clothes and human body has good affinity, is the traditional dress material of generally acknowledging.But because the breed of mulberry silk is subjected to the restriction of region more, resource is relatively poorer with respect to other fibers, and as being made into abundant overcoat lining, its cost price is higher.
The spinning of ammonia copper wire is that natural cellulosic feedstocks such as cotton linter are dissolved in the liquor ammoniae fortis of Kocide SD or alkaline cupric salt, be made into spinning solution, the plain molecular chemistry thing of copper ammonia fibre disintegrating and regeneration goes out cellulose in coagulating bath, and the hydrate cellulose of generation is processed through the back and promptly obtained ammonia copper wire.Because the Kocide SD solution as the ammonia copper wire spinning can all reclaim after spinning, can not pollute environment.Therefore, the production process of ammonia copper wire is comparatively environmental protection, and the characteristic of product relatively meets the requirement of people to clothes again.In multiple cellulose fibre commonly used, ammonia copper wire has thinner fiber Denier, is example with 120D: about 1.7 dawn of single fiber dawn number; And about 1.2～2.4 dawn of mulberry silk single fiber dawn number, cotton about 1.7 dawn of single fiber dawn number, about 1.7 dawn of wool single fiber dawn number, about 4 dawn of viscose single fiber dawn number, about 4 dawn of acetate silk single fiber dawn number.Because ammonia copper wire has more number of fiber in the fiber of same specification (thickness), so can form stronger diffuse reflection effect to light.Especially after the ammonia copper wire dyeing through the diffuse reflection color of light bright-coloured more pure, gloss is soft, brings beautiful sensation for people's vision.Because ammonia copper wire fiber single fiber is thinner, the radical in the unit silk thread is more, so skin and feel are all soft comfortable.Add to have anlistatig function,, can avoid producing sultry discomfort even dress still has good sense of touch under the weather of drying.The performance of cellulose fibre has determined cellulose fibre to have the high ventilation moisture absorbing, and the porous of ammonia copper wire has determined its ventilation and perspiration function function more on other cellulose fibres.Select ammonia copper wire interwoven fabric design clothes for use, ABRASION RESISTANCE, hygroscopicity, drapability are all good, therefore select ammonia copper wire interwoven fabric design clothes for use, and the scope of application is wider, and it is excellent to wear wearability.
Mulberry silk, makes to be difficult to weave under common process conditions because physical characteristic separately is different with ammonia copper wire, and is especially incompatible especially under the high sley situation; Such as the processing of mulberry silk ABRASION RESISTANCE under the high sley situation and the silk thread fluffing of ammonia copper wire dyeing back, powerfully descend that to cause weaving the processing of difficulty and seek in the weaving process two kinds of raw materials all be that prior art is insurmountable to the key technology difficult points such as equalization point of ambient humidity.
Summary of the invention
The purpose of this invention is to provide a kind of lining and weaving method thereof, the lining and the weaving method thereof that just provide a kind of mulberry silk and ammonia copper wire to interweave.The invention solves the quality problems that the ammonia copper wire lining produces owing to the instability of raw material brute force when weaving, by the ammonia copper wire raw material is protected dry processing, make the brute force of ammonia copper wire in weaving process and elongation all more stable, remedied the ammonia copper wire product under the weather conditions of humidity because the deficiency that makes fabric quality decline that the variation of physical property brings.
A kind of mulberry silk of the present invention and ammonia copper wire interwoven fabric are interwoven by mulberry silk and ammonia copper wire, and warp adopts mulberry silk, and parallel adopts ammonia copper wire.
As optimized technical scheme:
Aforesaid a kind of mulberry silk and ammonia copper wire interwoven fabric, wherein, the weight ratio of described mulberry silk and ammonia copper wire is 20～80: 80～20.
Aforesaid a kind of mulberry silk and ammonia copper wire interwoven fabric, wherein, the content of silk gum of described mulberry silk is 2～6%.Because woven lining warp density will reach 130 pieces/centimetre, the frictional force in weaving process between the silk thread is quite big, and silk thread fluffs easily, ruptures.Make phozy in weaving process, the fracture of silk thread, it is crucial grasping degumming rate.The content of silk gum of mulberry silk accounts for the weight about 24～26% of silk, all contain silk gum in the finished product lining in the ordinary course of things, if routinely silk gum is taken off will give to weave to the greatest extent and brings difficulty, can make to weave smoothly and carry out though keep a part of silk gum, the difficult control of dyeing quality causes the look flower easily and influences feel.Find that through the repetition test inventor degumming rate can bring risk to the uniformity of dyeing less than 18%, and degumming rate is controlled in 20～24% scopes the most reasonable.
Aforesaid a kind of mulberry silk and ammonia copper wire interwoven fabric, wherein, described warp be by two identical sth. made by twisting to twisting mulberry silk (first twist) doubling after the silk thread of twist against twist (retwist) again.The ammonia copper wire smooth surface, single fiber is thinner, is affected through the cohesive force between the fiber of dyeing back, and scared powerful decline of fiber caused and weaves difficulty, by first twist and twice twisting of retwist, strengthened the cohesive force of silk greatly.
The present invention also provides the weaving method of a kind of mulberry silk and ammonia copper wire interwoven fabric, is the method that warp and parallel is woven into lining, and warp adopts mulberry silk, and parallel adopts ammonia copper wire, and the ammonia copper wire of parallel is protected dry processing before using; The processing step of warp and parallel is as follows:
Warp: hank knotting-one-tenth tube-first twist-doubling-retwist-skeining-come unstuck-dye-become tube-skewer through-weave;
Parallel: wound packages silk-minute tube-twisting-skeining-dyeing-one-tenth tube-quilling-guarantor is dry-weaves.
The weaving method of aforesaid a kind of mulberry silk and ammonia copper wire interwoven fabric, wherein, the weight ratio of described mulberry silk and ammonia copper wire is 20～80: 80～20; Described warp is to be first twist to S direction or Z to twisting with mulberry silk earlier, and then with two identical silks and lump together the rhizoid line that the back forms after rotation twisting is retwist to Z direction or S, and then come unstuck; The content of silk gum of described mulberry silk is 2～6%.
The weaving method of aforesaid a kind of mulberry silk and ammonia copper wire interwoven fabric, wherein, the mulberry silk first twist of described warp twisting number of times is twisted number of times more than retwist.The ammonia copper wire smooth surface, single fiber is thinner, is affected through the cohesive force between the fiber of dyeing back, and scared powerful decline of fiber caused and weaves difficulty.At this difficult problem inventor silk has been increased and to have twisted operation together.Sum up through style, every centimetre adds 3 twists and promptly the outward appearance of silk is not had too much influence, can reach again to make and weave the requirement of carrying out smoothly.
The weaving method of aforesaid a kind of mulberry silk and ammonia copper wire interwoven fabric, wherein, the dry processing method of the guarantor of described parallel can be protected dry, hot blast with thermal source and be protected dry or moisture absorption is protected dryly, and the regain of silk thread is remained between 8～13%.In weaving process, mulberry silk its brute force, rub resistance power under the environment of humidity are improved, and break end easily under the condition of drying; And ammonia copper wire is just in time opposite, and the big powerful decline of humidity is bigger, and elongation is bigger, influence power silk fabric face effect; So ammonia copper wire is protected specially dry, allow the time that it places in the workshop shorten as far as possible, ready access upon use has obtained effect preferably.
The weaving method of aforesaid a kind of mulberry silk and ammonia copper wire interwoven fabric, wherein, the technology that described lining interweaves after adopting warp and parallel to dye separately, the mulberry silk of warp dyes with ACID DYES, and the ammonia copper wire of parallel adopts direct dyes or reactive dyeing.Mulberry silk is an azelon, needs usually to dye under the condition of acidity, and ACID DYES can make mulberry silk fiber in dyeing course injury-free, and can keep good gloss; But ammonia copper wire is relatively more responsive to acid, powerful decline obviously under acid condition.Therefore be fit to direct dyes or reactive dyeing.In order to guarantee that two kinds of fibers all can embody optimum efficiency in fabric, therefore adopting the technology that look knits (earlier mulberry silk and ammonia copper wire are dyeed respectively and then interweave) is the comparison reasonable method.
A kind of mulberry silk of the present invention and ammonia copper wire interwoven fabric and weaving method thereof, be lining and the weaving method thereof that a kind of mulberry silk and ammonia copper wire interweave, warp adopts mulberry silk, and the mulberry silk fiber number is thin and powerful higher, ABRASION RESISTANCE good, is suitable as the higher warp of density; Parallel adopts ammonia copper wire, and the thick relative mulberry silk of color and luster of ammonia copper wire fiber number is beautiful but ABRASION RESISTANCE is relatively poor, is suitable as parallel.
The invention has the beneficial effects as follows:
A kind of mulberry silk of the present invention and ammonia copper wire interwoven fabric and weaving method thereof, the product that adopts the ammonia copper wire of mulberry silk with fiber queen laudatory title and environmental protection element to interweave has that gloss is beautiful, feel is soft and smooth, wears functional etc. characteristics; Make full use of mulberry silk and ammonia copper wire performance characteristics separately, finish the yarn-dyed jacquard product that interweaves, thus make mulberry silk/ammonia copper wire interweaving product from outward appearance, take and to excellent function is all arranged on the comfortableness of human body.Comprise the environmental protection characteristics of ammonia copper wire in spinning process, meet current society more and advocate environmental protection and healthy theory.Therefore, mulberry silk/ammonia copper wire interweaving product has boundless prospect, is one of first-selection of high-grade fabric.A kind of lining of the present invention provides a class to have the novel fabric of good surface appearance and comfortable wearability; The wearability of this lining is equal to authentic silk product but the more authentic silk of cost product is cheap.
The specific embodiment
Below in conjunction with the specific embodiment, further set forth the present invention.Should be understood that these embodiment only to be used to the present invention is described and be not used in and limit the scope of the invention.Should be understood that in addition those skilled in the art can make various changes or modifications the present invention after the content of having read the present invention's instruction, these equivalent form of values fall within the application's appended claims institute restricted portion equally.
A kind of mulberry silk of the present invention and ammonia copper wire interwoven fabric are interwoven by mulberry silk and ammonia copper wire, and warp adopts mulberry silk, and parallel adopts ammonia copper wire.
Wherein, the weight ratio of described mulberry silk and ammonia copper wire is 20～80: 80～20, and the content of silk gum of described mulberry silk is 2～6%.Because woven lining warp density will reach 130 pieces/centimetre, the frictional force in weaving process between the silk thread is quite big, and silk thread fluffs easily, ruptures.Make phozy in weaving process, the fracture of silk thread, it is crucial grasping degumming rate.The content of silk gum of mulberry silk accounts for the weight about 24～26% of silk, silk gum is contained at finished product lining middle part in the ordinary course of things, if silk gum takes off will give to weave to the greatest extent and brings difficulty routinely, can make to weave smoothly and carry out though keep a part of silk gum, the difficult control of dyeing quality causes the look flower easily and influences feel.Find that through the repetition test inventor degumming rate can bring risk to the uniformity of dyeing less than 18%, and degumming rate is controlled in 20～24% scopes the most reasonable.
Described warp be by two identical sth. made by twisting to twisting mulberry silk (first twist) doubling after the silk thread of twist against twist (retwist) again.The ammonia copper wire smooth surface, single fiber is thinner, is affected through the cohesive force between the fiber of dyeing back, and scared powerful decline of fiber caused and weaves difficulty, by first twist and twice twisting of retwist, strengthens the cohesive force of silk greatly.
The present invention also provides the weaving method of a kind of mulberry silk and ammonia copper wire interwoven fabric, is the method that warp and parallel is woven into lining, and warp adopts mulberry silk, and parallel adopts ammonia copper wire, and the ammonia copper wire of parallel is protected dry processing before using; The processing step of warp and parallel is as follows:
Warp: hank knotting-one-tenth tube-first twist-doubling-retwist-skeining-come unstuck-dye-become tube-skewer through-weave;
Parallel: wound packages silk-minute tube-twisting-skeining-dyeing-one-tenth tube-quilling-guarantor is dry-weaves.
Wherein, the weight ratio of described mulberry silk and ammonia copper wire is 20～80: 80～20; Described warp is to be first twist to S direction or Z to twisting with mulberry silk earlier, and then with two identical silks and lump together the rhizoid line that the back forms after rotation twisting is retwist to Z direction or S, and then come unstuck; The content of silk gum of described mulberry silk is 2～6%.
The mulberry silk first twist twisting number of times of described warp is twisted number of times more than retwist.The ammonia copper wire smooth surface, single fiber is thinner, is affected through the cohesive force between the fiber of dyeing back, and scared powerful decline of fiber caused and weaves difficulty.At this difficult problem inventor silk has been increased and to have twisted operation together.Sum up through style, every centimetre adds 3 twists and promptly the outward appearance of silk is not had too much influence, can reach again to make and weave the requirement of carrying out smoothly.
The dry processing method of the guarantor of described parallel can be protected dry, hot blast with thermal source and be protected dry or moisture absorption is protected dryly, and the regain of silk thread is remained between 8～13%.Protecting dry processing is that ammonia copper wire is placed in certain dry environment that requires, and in weaving process, mulberry silk its brute force, rub resistance power under the environment of humidity are improved, and break end easily under the condition of drying; And ammonia copper wire is just in time opposite, and the big powerful decline of humidity is bigger, and elongation is bigger, influence power silk fabric face effect; So ammonia copper wire is protected specially dry, allow the time that it places in the workshop shorten as far as possible, ready access upon use has obtained effect preferably.
The technology that described lining interweaves after adopting warp and parallel to dye separately, the mulberry silk of warp dyes with ACID DYES, and the ammonia copper wire of parallel adopts direct dyes or reactive dyeing.Mulberry silk is an azelon, needs usually to dye under the condition of acidity, and ACID DYES can make mulberry silk fiber in dyeing course injury-free, and can keep good gloss; But ammonia copper wire is relatively more responsive to acid, powerful decline obviously under acid condition.Therefore be fit to direct dyes or reactive dyeing.In order to guarantee that two kinds of fibers all can embody optimum efficiency in fabric, therefore adopting the technology that look knits (earlier mulberry silk and ammonia copper wire are dyeed respectively and then interweave) is the comparison reasonable method.
Lining one:
Warp: (1/20/22D mulberry silk 8T/CM S*2) ripe look of 6T/CM Z
To rotate 8 times to the S direction in every centimetre of spacing of 1/20/22D mulberry silk earlier, and then after the Z direction is rotated 6 times, form the silk thread with better cohesive force and tear resistance of relatively being convinced, and then come unstuck with two identical silks and after lumping together.Practice through just practicing, after sloughing 20% left and right sides silk gum, dye with ACID DYES again, formed the silk thread of above-mentioned technology with multiple;
Parallel: first: 120D/70F ammonia copper wire 3T/CM look
Second: 120D/70F ammonia copper wire 3T/CM look
Third: 120D/70F ammonia copper wire 3T/CM look
Other parameter
The warp radical: 9600+limit is through the 160*2 root
Reed width: 76.6/75 centimetre
Porter: 32 plumages/centimetre
Last machine filling density: 102 shuttles/centimetre
The finished product door width of cloth: 75/73.5 centimetre
Jacquard specification: No. 1400
Practical line pin: 48 on 1200 needle bar cuttves
Keevil is worn method: 48 row *, 50 row
According to the tissue of fabric, consider the loom load, fabric is that face down is weaved.
Tissue: ground-tint: 8 pieces of warp sateens, adopt shuttle line on the ground.
Decorative pattern: 16 pieces of first latitude latitude flower backing second third latitudes.
8 pieces of second latitude latitude flower backing first latitudes, 16 pieces of third latitudes.
8 pieces of third latitude latitude flower backing first latitudes, 16 pieces of second latitudes.
Material content: mulberry silk 28%; Ammonia copper wire 72%.
Lining two:
Colour bar rib-loop silk fabric
Warp: ripe look * 2 colour bars of (1/20/22D mulberry silk 8T/S * 2) 6T/Z are arranged
Parallel: first: 3T/ centimetre of ripe look of 3/40/44D mulberry silk
Second: (60D/43F ammonia copper wire 4T/S * 2) 2.5T/Z
Parallel is arranged: first 2 second 8
Porter: 18 plumages/centimetre penetrate number: 6/plumage
Reed width: 138/140 centimetre
Last machine filling density: 38 shuttles/centimetre
Warp quantity: 14904+120*2
The finished product door width of cloth: 138/140
Finished product is through close: 108 pieces/centimetre
The finished product filling density: 38 shuttles/centimetre
Weight: 29 mommes
Tissue: rib-loop
Material content: mulberry silk 70%; Ammonia copper wire 30%.
Claims (9)
1. mulberry silk and ammonia copper wire interwoven fabric, it is characterized in that: described lining is interwoven by mulberry silk and ammonia copper wire, and warp adopts mulberry silk, and parallel adopts ammonia copper wire.
2. a kind of mulberry silk as claimed in claim 1 and ammonia copper wire interwoven fabric is characterized in that, the weight ratio of described mulberry silk and ammonia copper wire is 20～80:80～20.
3. a kind of mulberry silk as claimed in claim 1 and ammonia copper wire interwoven fabric is characterized in that, the content of silk gum of described mulberry silk is 2～6%.
4. a kind of mulberry silk as claimed in claim 1 and ammonia copper wire interwoven fabric is characterized in that, described warp be by two identical sth. made by twisting to the doubling of twisting mulberry silk after the silk thread of twist against twist again.
5. the weaving method of mulberry silk and ammonia copper wire interwoven fabric is the method that warp and parallel is woven into lining, and it is characterized in that: warp adopts mulberry silk, and parallel adopts ammonia copper wire, and the ammonia copper wire of parallel is protected dry processing before using; The processing step of warp and parallel is as follows:
Warp: hank knotting-one-tenth tube-first twist-doubling-retwist-skeining-come unstuck-dye-become tube-skewer through-weave; Parallel: the wound packages silk-minute tube-twisting-skeining-dyeing-one-tenth tube-quilling-guarantor is dry to be weaved.
6. the weaving method of a kind of mulberry silk as claimed in claim 5 and ammonia copper wire interwoven fabric is characterized in that, the weight ratio of described mulberry silk and ammonia copper wire is 20～80:80～20; Described warp is to be first twist to S direction or Z to twisting with mulberry silk earlier, and then with two identical silks and lump together the rhizoid line that the back forms after rotation twisting is retwist to Z direction or S, and then come unstuck; The content of silk gum of described mulberry silk is 2～6%.
7. the weaving method of a kind of mulberry silk as claimed in claim 6 and ammonia copper wire interwoven fabric is characterized in that, the mulberry silk first twist twisting number of times of described warp is twisted number of times more than retwist.
8. the weaving method of a kind of mulberry silk as claimed in claim 5 and ammonia copper wire interwoven fabric, the dry processing method of guarantor that it is characterized in that described parallel can be protected dry, hot blast with thermal source and be protected dry or moisture absorption is protected dryly, and the regain of silk thread is remained between 8～13%.
9. the weaving method of a kind of mulberry silk as claimed in claim 5 and ammonia copper wire interwoven fabric, it is characterized in that, the technology that described lining interweaves after adopting warp and parallel to dye separately, the mulberry silk of warp dyes with ACID DYES, and the ammonia copper wire of parallel adopts direct dyes or reactive dyeing.
Priority Applications (1)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| CN200910049036A CN101532199A (en) | 2009-04-09 | 2009-04-09 | Mulberry silk and cuprammonium rayon yarn interwoven fabric and weaving method thereof |
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|---|---|---|---|
| CN200910049036A CN101532199A (en) | 2009-04-09 | 2009-04-09 | Mulberry silk and cuprammonium rayon yarn interwoven fabric and weaving method thereof |
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| CN102286798A (en) * | 2010-06-17 | 2011-12-21 | 罗莱家纺股份有限公司 | Bemberg fiber and preparation method thereof |
| CN102021710A (en) * | 2010-12-20 | 2011-04-20 | 孚日集团股份有限公司 | Method for producing cupro textile product |
| CN102505263A (en) * | 2011-09-30 | 2012-06-20 | 江苏喜登博服饰有限公司 | Antibacterial breathable fabric |
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| CN102851838A (en) * | 2012-09-14 | 2013-01-02 | 安徽宏祥丝绸织造有限公司 | Improved technology for 19015 twill silk |
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Application publication date: 20090916 |