CN101481842A - Preparation of cotton type memory leisure fabric - Google Patents
Preparation of cotton type memory leisure fabric Download PDFInfo
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- CN101481842A CN101481842A CNA2008102436927A CN200810243692A CN101481842A CN 101481842 A CN101481842 A CN 101481842A CN A2008102436927 A CNA2008102436927 A CN A2008102436927A CN 200810243692 A CN200810243692 A CN 200810243692A CN 101481842 A CN101481842 A CN 101481842A
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Abstract
The invention discloses a preparation method of cotton memory leisure fabric. The preparation method comprises the following steps: (1) preparation of superfine PTT filament fibers; (2) air-jet texturing composite; (3) weaving; and (4) dyeing and post finishing. The prepared fabric has the advantages of soft and comfortable hand feel, good elastic recoverability and good wrinkle resistance, the fabric is more elegant, attractive and has unique charm after being treated with advanced dyeing technique, the water diffusibility of the fabric is high, 0.1ml of water is dripped on the fabric, the absorption height reaches more than 70mm, residual moisture is less than 30% and antistatic property cloth face charge density is less than 6UC/M2 after dripping the water for 40 minutes according to a dryness factor measuring method, and in the weaving procedure, a Nissan double-jet electronic free woof selecting high-speed double-jet weaving machine with an electronic muzzle is employed to weave so as to meet the requirements of different cotton memory leisure fabrics.
Description
Technical field
The present invention relates to the preparation method of multi-efficiency lining, especially about a kind of preparation method of high-quality cotton type memory leisure fabric.
Background technology
Ptt fiber is as a kind of novel polyethylene terephthalate, anti-fold and characteristics such as DIMENSIONAL STABILITY, easy dyeing with excellent elasticity answer, excellence, be made into lining and have comfortable, design sense and by force, easily nurse three big significantly characteristics, complied with the trend that the fashion industry is moulded individual character, embodied the oneself.Be widely accepted once just introducing to the market, be widely applied at aspects such as wind coat, fashion women's dress, leisure jackets.Since two thousand six, the PTT shape memory fabric has been sung the market of Chinese functional fabric loudly, becomes one of rare high value added product on the domestic market.
Popular in the market PTT memory face fabric is mainly pure memory or half memory face fabric, though these linings integrate common chemical fibre lining advantage, have all that feel is too smooth, ventilative undesirable, the flexibility of moisture absorption inadequately, easily produces shortcomings such as static.
Summary of the invention
The object of the present invention is to provide a kind of preparation method of cotton type memory leisure fabric, is that the spinning production technology of the ultra-fine PTT filament fiber of 0.2-0.5D/PF and this fiber and terylene pre-oriented fiber POY space-variant combined producing tech, lining add finishing technique after the mixed weaving process of high-effective conductive fiber and the dyeing.
Technical scheme of the present invention realizes in the following manner: the preparation method of cotton type memory leisure fabric may further comprise the steps: the 1) preparation of ultra-fine PTT filament fiber; 2) space-variant is compound; 3) weave; 4) dyeing, back arrangement is characterized in that:
1, the preparation process of described ultra-fine PTT filament fiber is: the ultra-fine PTT filament fiber of 0.2-0.5DPF is that the adjustment by the design of spinning plate and spinning technique adopts the fusion method spinning to make main route: and the PTT section feeds intake → and drying → screw extruder → melt pipe → spinning manifold → measuring pump → filament spinning component → ring blowing → oil nozzle oils, and boundling → path → network → first stretching rod → second connects and stretches rod → heat treatment box → coiling in advance.
Further, above-mentioned screw extruder adopts twin-screw, the draw ratio of spinneret hole is 6:1 in the filament spinning component, and spinning temperature is controlled at 235-255 ℃, and filter adopts metallic yarn, and the filter core excessively of employing 20um, ring blowing temperature is at 16-22 ℃, and relative humidity is 65%-85%, wind speed 0.3-0.5m/s, hot rod stretching ratio 1.5-2.5, winding speed 2600-3000m/min.
2, described space-variant composite steps is: get ultra-fine PTT filament fiber, terylene pre-oriented fiber POY, two rhizoids pass through air nozzle at enterprising line space change composite superfine PTT filament fiber of space-variant machine and terylene pre-oriented fiber POY after drawing-off, be intertwined by the air-flow rotation, form the two different contraction ATY of the component silks of PTT/POY, wherein: the tension force of deformed area and stable region is that 5.5-7.0CN, over feed rate(OFR) are that 10%-18%, hot-stretch temperature are that 130-150 ℃, draw ratio are that 1.5-1.7, confluent are 0.8-1L/h.
Further, in the two different contraction ATY of the component silks of PTT/POY, ultra-fine PTT filament fiber accounts for the 65-85% of ATY silk weight, and terylene pre-oriented fiber POY is a fine count fiber of selecting 0.4-0.8DPF porous number for use, accounts for the 15-35% of ATY silk weight.
3, the described step of weaving is: PTT/POY space-variant different contraction ATY silk and conductive fiber are carried out fabric tissue, and wherein the ATY silk accounts for the 95-97% of lining, and conductive fiber accounts for the 3-5% of lining;
Above-mentioned conductive fiber is to adopt the compound conductive fiber Belltron 9R series of spinning, and this fiber has outstanding Electrostatic Control ability, good wash resistant, counter-bending, abrasion resistance properties.
Above-mentioned fabric tissue adopts plain weave, twill, compound alternative construction.
4, described dyeing, back arrangement step are.
1), grey cloth is concise, loose: be that grey cloth is adopted the single bath process pre-treatment, temperature is 100 ℃-110 ℃, and time 40-50 minute, degreaser adopted TX series.
Above-mentioned degreaser is to be received and STPP (sodium tripolyphosphate) is composited by sulfonic alkyl benzene, phosphoric acid hydrogen two;
2), pre-setting: be the grey cloth pre-setting with step 1), temperature is controlled at 70-80 ℃, 30-40 seconds time.
3), open fiber alkali decremental: be with step 2) grey cloth be chosen in the High Temperature High Pressure overflow dyeing machine and carry out, wherein: 105 ℃-115 ℃ of temperature, time 50min, bath raio 1:15-20, alkali lapse rate are 12%.
4), wash, dewater, washing: be with a small amount of acid-base neutralization of the grey cloth of step 3), make the cloth cover pH value reach 6-7, time 15-20 minute.
5), staining procedure: be the piece dyeing finishing with step 4), dyeing temperature is 100 ℃-110 ℃, and time 30-45 minute, after the dyeing, temperature was reduced to 65 ℃-70 ℃, and reduction was washed 10-15 minute.
Further, in staining procedure, dyestuff is special-purpose DISPERSE DYES, and auxiliary agent is dye leveller RAP, dispersing agent NNO.
6), back arrangement: be that setting temperature is 130-140 ℃ with the grey cloth typing of step 5), time 30-40 second.
The lining that the present invention produces, soft comfortable, elastic recovery good, wrinkle resistance is excellent, after advanced person's staining technique was handled, the more apparent elegance of style was charming, excellent.After tested, its water diffusivity is dripped the 0.1ml water droplet on fabric, stamen is inhaled and is highly reached more than 70 millimeters, according to index of aridity method of testing, after dripping 40 minutes, remaining moisture content is less than 30%, and the antistatic property cloth density of surface charge is less than 6UC/M2, in weaving process, adopt the at a high speed two water jet loomss of daily output of two spray electronic type free weft selectings and charged sub-halter to weave, with the demand of the cotton type memory leisure fabric that satisfies different cultivars.
Specific embodiments
The preparation method of cotton type memory leisure fabric may further comprise the steps: 1, the preparation of ultra-fine PTT filament fiber; 2, space-variant is compound; 3, weave; 4, dyeing, back arrangement.
The name of an article: PTT110A
1, the preparation of ultra-fine PTT filament fiber:
The ultra-fine PTT filament fiber of 75D/188FPTT is to improve by the making of spinning plate and spinning technique to realize technological process: section → drying → twin-screw extruding → melt pipe → spinning manifold → measuring pump → ring dries → oils → and the path → pre-network → first stretching rod → second stretching rod → heat treatment box → coiling → balance → detect, grade → pack.
Wherein the draw ratio of spinneret orifice is 6:1, adopted twin (double) screw extruder for obtaining better melt quality, spinning temperature is 235-255 ℃, filter adopts metallic yarn, and adopts the filter core of crossing of 20um, and ring blowing temperature is 16-22 ℃, relative humidity is 65-85%, wind speed 0.3-0.5m/s, hot rod stretching ratio 1.5-2.5, winding speed 2600-3000m/min.
2, the PTT/POY space-variant is compounded to form the ATY silk.
Ultra-fine PTT filament fiber is 75D/188F, and terylene pre-oriented fiber POY selects 20D/36F for use, and two rhizoids become compound in the enterprising line space of daily output B-501ATY space-variant machine, and PTT long filament and POY silk by air nozzle, are intertwined by the air-flow rotation after drawing-off.This fiber has fluffy stereochemical structure, and fiber feel and outward appearance aspect be more near short fibre yarn, but lacks than the short fibre yarn filoplume, and anti-pilling property is good, fastness is high, and actual fineness is the 110DATY silk behind the actual measurement space-variant, notes problem in the space-variant process:
A) in the air-texturing process, it is very big to the influence of finished silk that each distinguishes tension force, and deformed area tension force is lower, helps shredding and lopping; Stable region tension force is lower, and it is loose to help the fiber internal stress, improves deformation effect, and Tension Control is at 5.5-7.0CN in this example.
B) tow over feed rate(OFR) size influences the bulking intensity of tow, and over feed rate(OFR) is low excessively, is unfavorable for the generation of wire ring, and over feed rate(OFR) is too high, and looped pile is excessive, and the bar what is loose, and fibre strength descends, and line density increases, and over feed rate(OFR) is controlled at 10%-18% in this example.
C) the hot-stretch temperature is controlled at 130-150 ℃ in this example, and draw ratio is controlled at 1.5-1.7, and confluent is controlled at 0.8-1L/h.
3, weave: name of an article PTT110A
Raw material: 11388 of organizine first 110D/212FATY silks (the two components of PTT/POY)
232 of second Belltron9RB-75 conductive fibers
Latitude is together through first: second=50 first: 1 second
Density: 178X94
The door width of cloth: 166cm
Grammes per square metre: 228g/m
Weave type: the two spray looms of LW551 Japanese Nissan multi-arm
Weaving speed: 550rpm
Fabric tissue: plain weave
4, dyeing, back arrangement:
1) earlier grey cloth is carried out refining, loose single bath process pre-treatment, 105 ℃ of temperature, 40 minutes time, degreaser adopts TX series, and it is to be received and multiple components degreaser such as STPP (sodium tripolyphosphate) is composited by sulfonic alkyl benzene, phosphoric acid hydrogen two.
2) this routine pre-setting temperature is controlled at 70-80 ℃, 40 seconds time
3) open fiber alkali decremental, bath raio 1:20,115 ℃ of temperature, time 50min, alkali lapse rate are 12%
4), wash, dewater, washing: be with a small amount of acid-base neutralization of grey cloth, make the cloth cover pH value reach 6-7, time 15-20 minute;
5) dyeing: temperature is 110 ℃, 40 minutes time, pH value=5; bath raio 1:40; wherein advance 30-40 ℃ of cylinder temperature, is warming up to 70 ℃ with 1-1.5 ℃/minute, be incubated 5 minutes; be warming up to 110 ℃ with 0.5-0.8 ℃/minute again; after the dyeing, and temperature is reduced to 70 ℃, reduction cleaning 10-15 minutes; reduction cleaner 3.0g/L wherein, and it is neutrality that acetic acid is transferred pH value.
6), back arrangement: be that setting temperature is 130-140 ℃ with the grey cloth typing of step 5), time 30-40 second.
This cotton type jacket class memory face fabric feel gentle glutinous, be rich in texture, anti-fold excellence, and fabric air-permeability, water vapour permeability are good, after tested, the antistatic property cloth density of surface charge is 1.2UC/M2, it is the desirable lining of making the high-grade leisure jacket, from color and luster, welcome by travelling trader with coffee, wine is red, goth black, soil is black etc. especially.
Realization approach of the present invention at first is the research and development to ultra-fine PTT filament fiber, fine count fiber is because diameter is very little, its bending stiffness is very little, Fabric Style softness, exquisiteness, suspending weight are good, fine count fiber has many fine holes between microfiber simultaneously, form little air chamber, capillary effect increase between fiber, it is functional to dredge steam, and fabric has gas permeability, poisture-penetrability preferably.
Secondly realization approach of the present invention is to carry out space-variant by ultra-fine PTT filament fiber and dacron fine-denier porous POY to be compounded to form the ATY silk, utilize the difference in shrinkage of two kinds of polyester fibers, behind space-variant, make fiber have more fluffy stereochemical structure, feel and outward appearance be more near cotton fiber, and space-variant silk fiber air content is big, fabric softness, air-moisture-permeable are further enhanced.
The present invention realizes that approach the 3rd is to select the fiber of high conductivity, can effectively in time carry the outside boundary of cloth surface charge, prevents that the electric charge knot is poly-, reaches anlistatig function with this.
In the fabric structure of the present invention, because the fiber that adopts has lower modulus and good extension recovery performance, have once grabbing wrinkle, one brush for demonstrating fully the PTT fabric with regard to flat function, fabric has adopted highly dense institutional framework, to increase the interlacing point of structure, increase stops fiber to be replied rapidly to the resistance of fiber, reaches the purpose of keeping shape.
In dyeing course, because the used fibrous raw material of this memory face fabric and common lining ptt fiber big-difference very on structural form, difficulty of processing is bigger.Be feel and the gloss of guaranteeing the cotton type memory lining, whole dyeing and finishing process must adopt soft water to handle, for controlling aberration effectively, concise at fabric, opening technological parameters such as its chemicals usage in fibre and the dyeing course, temperature, bath raio, cloth speed must strict control, dyeing temperature must be below 120 ℃, and the use of the special-purpose DISPERSE DYES of superfine fibre is also extremely important to the quality that improves memory face fabric.
In the lining preparation, the ultra-fine PTT filament fiber of 50D-100D (0.2-0.5DPF) accounts for the 65-85% of ATY silk weight, polyester POY is a fine count fiber of selecting 15D-30D (0.4-0.8DPF) porous number for use, account for the 15-35% of ATY silk weight, conductive fiber is to adopt Japan to spin the compound conductive fiber Belltron 9R series of spinning of up-to-date development the second month in a season, and this fiber has outstanding Electrostatic Control ability, good wash resistant, counter-bending, abrasion resistance properties.
Claims (7)
1, the preparation method of cotton type memory leisure fabric may further comprise the steps: the 1) preparation of ultra-fine PTT filament fiber; 2) space-variant is compound; 3) weave; 4) dyeing, back arrangement is characterized in that:
1) described ultra-fine PTT filament fiber preparation process is: the ultra-fine PTT filament fiber of 0.2-0.5DPF is that the adjustment by the design of spinning plate and spinning technique adopts the fusion method spinning to make main route: and the PTT section feeds intake → and drying → screw extruder → melt pipe → spinning manifold → measuring pump → filament spinning component → ring blowing → oil nozzle oils, and boundling → path → network → first stretching rod → second connects and stretches rod → heat treatment box → coiling in advance;
2), described space-variant composite steps is: get ultra-fine PTT filament fiber, terylene pre-oriented fiber POY, two rhizoids become compound in the enterprising line space of space-variant machine, ultra-fine PTT filament fiber and terylene pre-oriented fiber POY pass through air nozzle after drawing-off, be intertwined by the air-flow rotation, form the two different contraction ATY of the component silks of PTT/POY, wherein: the tension force of deformed area and stable region is that 5.5-7.0CN, over feed rate(OFR) are that 10%-18%, hot-stretch temperature are that 130-150 ℃, draw ratio are that 1.5-1.7, confluent are 0.8-1L/h;
3), the described step of weaving is: PTT/POY space-variant different contraction ATY silk and conductive fiber are carried out fabric tissue, and wherein the ATY silk accounts for the 95-97% of lining, and conductive fiber accounts for the 3-5% of lining;
4), described dyeing, back arrangement step are:
(1), grey cloth is concise, loose: be that grey cloth is adopted the single bath process pre-treatment, temperature is 100 ℃-110 ℃, and time 40-50 minute, degreaser adopted TX series;
(2), pre-setting: be the grey cloth pre-setting with step (1), temperature is controlled at 70-80 ℃, time 30-40 second;
(3), open fiber alkali decremental: be that grey cloth with step (2) is chosen in the High Temperature High Pressure overflow dyeing machine and carries out, wherein: 105 ℃-115 ℃ of temperature, time 50min, bath raio 1:15-20, alkali lapse rate are 12-15%;
(4), wash, dewater, washing: be with a small amount of acid-base neutralization of grey cloth of step (3), make the cloth cover pH value reach 6-7, time 15-20 minute;
(5), staining procedure: be the piece dyeing finishing with step (4), dyeing temperature is 100 ℃-110 ℃, and time 30-45 minute, after the dyeing, temperature was reduced to 65 ℃-70 ℃, and reduction was washed 10-15 minute;
(6), back arrangement: be that setting temperature is 130-140 ℃ with the grey cloth typing of step (5), time 30-40 second.
2, the preparation method of cotton type memory leisure fabric according to claim 1, it is characterized in that: in the described ultra-fine PTT filament fiber preparation process, screw extruder adopts twin-screw, the draw ratio of spinneret hole is 6:1 in the filament spinning component, spinning temperature is controlled at 235-255 ℃, filter adopts metallic yarn, and the filter core excessively of employing 20um, ring blowing temperature is at 16-22 ℃, relative humidity is 65%-85%, wind speed 0.3-0.5m/s, hot rod stretching ratio 1.5-2.5, winding speed 2600-3000m/min.
3, the preparation method of cotton type memory leisure fabric according to claim 1, it is characterized in that: in the described space-variant composite steps, in the two different contraction ATY of the component silks of PTT/POY, PTT is the superfine Denier fibre that adopts 0.2-0.5DPF, account for the 65-85% of ATY silk weight, polyester POY is a fine count fiber of selecting 0.4-0.8DPF for use, accounts for the 15-35% of ATY silk weight.
4, the preparation method of cotton type memory leisure fabric according to claim 1 is characterized in that: described weaving in the step, conductive fiber are to adopt the compound conductive fiber Belltron9R series of spinning.
5, the preparation method of cotton type memory leisure fabric according to claim 1 is characterized in that: described weaving in the step, fabric tissue adopts plain weave, twill, compound alternative construction.
6, the preparation method of cotton type memory leisure fabric according to claim 1 is characterized in that: in described dyeing, the back arrangement step (1), degreaser is to be received and STPP (sodium tripolyphosphate) is composited by sulfonic alkyl benzene, phosphoric acid hydrogen two.
7, the preparation method of cotton type memory leisure fabric according to claim 1 is characterized in that: in described dyeing, the back arrangement step (5), dyestuff is that special-purpose DISPERSE DYES, auxiliary agent are that levelling agent RAR, diffusant are NNO.
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| CN102138709A (en) * | 2011-05-10 | 2011-08-03 | 丹阳市丹祈鱼跃纺织有限公司 | Method for preparing maize biology-based special-leather-feel top grade leisure shell fabric |
| CN102172591A (en) * | 2010-12-30 | 2011-09-07 | 东莞市硕源电子材料有限公司 | Method for producing ultra-clean wiping coiled tapes for hard disks |
| CN102433729A (en) * | 2011-09-20 | 2012-05-02 | 潘润华 | Method for preparing cotton-like fabric through alkali decrement |
| CN102443871A (en) * | 2010-10-08 | 2012-05-09 | 太仓荣文合成纤维有限公司 | Production method of low-temperature easy-to-dye polyester fiber |
| CN102499492A (en) * | 2011-11-18 | 2012-06-20 | 劲霸男装（上海）有限公司 | Production process of elastic leisure trousers |
| CN103952835A (en) * | 2014-04-16 | 2014-07-30 | 苏州大学 | Preparation method of spun silk/PTT (polytrimethylene terephthalate) blended fabric with shape memory function |
| CN104886837A (en) * | 2015-06-05 | 2015-09-09 | 南通赛晖科技发展有限公司 | Light warmth-retaining clothing material and production process thereof |
| CN108835741A (en) * | 2018-04-17 | 2018-11-20 | 常宁市帝棉纺织制衣有限公司 | A kind of shape memory polyester fiber fabric and clothes |
| CN110318266A (en) * | 2019-07-07 | 2019-10-11 | 徐州荣盛纺织整理有限公司 | A kind of chemical fibre cotton imitation memory fabric and preparation method thereof |
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| CN102443871A (en) * | 2010-10-08 | 2012-05-09 | 太仓荣文合成纤维有限公司 | Production method of low-temperature easy-to-dye polyester fiber |
| CN102172591A (en) * | 2010-12-30 | 2011-09-07 | 东莞市硕源电子材料有限公司 | Method for producing ultra-clean wiping coiled tapes for hard disks |
| CN102172591B (en) * | 2010-12-30 | 2012-09-05 | 东莞市硕源电子材料有限公司 | Method for producing ultra-clean wiping coiled tapes for hard disks |
| CN102138709B (en) * | 2011-05-10 | 2013-03-27 | 丹阳市丹祈鱼跃纺织有限公司 | Method for preparing maize biology-based special-leather-feel top grade leisure shell fabric |
| CN102138709A (en) * | 2011-05-10 | 2011-08-03 | 丹阳市丹祈鱼跃纺织有限公司 | Method for preparing maize biology-based special-leather-feel top grade leisure shell fabric |
| CN102433729A (en) * | 2011-09-20 | 2012-05-02 | 潘润华 | Method for preparing cotton-like fabric through alkali decrement |
| CN102499492A (en) * | 2011-11-18 | 2012-06-20 | 劲霸男装（上海）有限公司 | Production process of elastic leisure trousers |
| CN102499492B (en) * | 2011-11-18 | 2014-04-30 | 劲霸男装（上海）有限公司 | Production process of elastic leisure trousers |
| CN103952835A (en) * | 2014-04-16 | 2014-07-30 | 苏州大学 | Preparation method of spun silk/PTT (polytrimethylene terephthalate) blended fabric with shape memory function |
| CN103952835B (en) * | 2014-04-16 | 2016-02-03 | 苏州大学 | A kind of preparation method with the spun silk/PTT BLENDED FABRIC of shape memory function |
| CN104886837A (en) * | 2015-06-05 | 2015-09-09 | 南通赛晖科技发展有限公司 | Light warmth-retaining clothing material and production process thereof |
| CN108835741A (en) * | 2018-04-17 | 2018-11-20 | 常宁市帝棉纺织制衣有限公司 | A kind of shape memory polyester fiber fabric and clothes |
| CN110318266A (en) * | 2019-07-07 | 2019-10-11 | 徐州荣盛纺织整理有限公司 | A kind of chemical fibre cotton imitation memory fabric and preparation method thereof |
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Address after: Danyang City, Jiangsu Province, 212300 Dan Jin Road No. 13 Patentee after: Danyang Dan Dan Textile Co., Ltd. Address before: Danyang City, Jiangsu Province, 212300 Dan Jin Road No. 13 Patentee before: Danyang Danqi Yuyue Textile Co., Ltd. |