CN101352269A - Trouser suit pattern-making method for fixing numbers of trousers midlines and locating the same as well as uses - Google Patents

Abstract

The invention relates to a trouser pattern making method for determining the quantity and the position of crease lines, which is a new method designed for the structure of the trousers. The method sums up the datum line and reference data for the positioning of the crease lines by the figure characteristic analysis of a human body and measurement for the human body. The rationality of the data is verified by experiments; therefore, the data is applied to designing the structure of the trousers, and the traditional pattern making ideas and methods are changed. Based on the quantity and position determination of the crease lines of physical characteristics, the method not only are simpler and faster when being applied to the design of conventional pattern structures, but also reduce the links of middle partition and matching of samples when being applied to the design of unconventional trouser structures. The trouser pattern making method can also provide front-end technical support and necessary theoretical evidences for the automatic generation technology of trouser samples; the method of the invention has simple, fast and convenient operations, low requirements in experiences and facilitates better understanding of the design theories for the trouser structures.

Description

The fitted pants method for platemaking and the application of a kind of crease line fixed number location

Technical field

The invention belongs to garment industry, particularly relate to the fitted pants method for platemaking and the application of a kind of crease line fixed number location.

Background technology

Fitted pants are one of main forms of dress under the people, and the clothes kind that spring, summer, autumn and winter, men and women, old and young all can wear is occupied quite great proportion in the clothes total quantity consumed.And in the apparel construction design science, pay attention to research to last assembling structure, and it is more single that fitted pants style originally changes, and structure is want often to get the brush-off to stable.

Along with the lifting and the Updating of Consumption Ideas of people's living standard, the significant variation taking place to the pursuit of dress-goods in the consumer, follows the fashion showing personality by popular the changing into of beginning.Fitted pants are removed the motion comfortableness that should satisfy human body, also should consider the aesthetic property that it is static, and pursue its modification to human body.Want these requirements of overall balance, it is most important that the structural design of fitted pants just seems.

In the structural design of fitted pants, different lists of references all has different understanding to the effect of crease line with the location, and the reference line that it adopts also is not quite similar.Before always being arranged in, the position of definite trousers anter crease line that we are common goes up minute line position of crotch horizontal line, thereby reach the thigh symmetry, middle crotch symmetry, the leg opening symmetry, be called the preceding trousers sheet of three symmetries, and the position of trousers rear panel seam line is to change to some extent with the different of technology preparation method according to the trousers style.

Method one, trousers rear panel seam line are arranged in minute line position (doing three symmetrical rear trouser plates) of back crotch, and the trousers that cut out so do not need to return the processing of pulling out technology when making, and the forming shape of back trousers body seam line is a linearity.As shown in Figure 1.

Method two, trousers rear panel seam line is arranged in the back and goes up the trousers that the position outer (sensing latasuture direction partially) of the outer partially 0.5-1cm of crotch line separated time cuts out like this need return the processing of pulling out technology slightly when making, reach three symmetrical structures, the forming shape of back trousers body seam line slightly is bending, as shown in Figure 2.

Method three, trousers rear panel seam line is arranged in the back to be gone up outside the outer partially 1-1.5cm of the crotch line separated time position, and the trousers of this version must reach three symmetrical structures through returning the processing of pulling out technology when making, the forming shape of back trousers body seam line is fit curve-like, as shown in Figure 3.

Other method, except above-mentioned common method, we can also see other definite method, and as shown: anter is still the midpoint at crosspiece, and rear panel utilization mathematical formulae is determined the position of rear panel crease line.Commonly used have 1.8H/10-1 and a 2H/10-1 etc.

To above method, there is following deficiency:

1, the formulation of the important structure line position in the structure drawing needs certain datum line as a reference.And above-mentioned several method be the wide point of crotch and in or outside suture as the reference of definite crease line.And the wide point of crotch is to change along with the wide ratio of big or small crotch, and interior external latasuture also can change along with the variation of style, and this can change along with the variation of wide ratio of big or small crotch and style with regard to the position of having caused crease line.And crease line is related to the outline moulding and the whole sound attitude balance of fitted pants as an important structure line of structural design, have certain stability.

2, along with people are more and more higher to the requirement of fitted pants, the style of fitted pants changes also more and more flexible, a lot of unconventional structural design styles occurred, as has not had styles such as inside and outside latasuture or interior external latasuture skew.Use traditional fitted pants method for platemaking, need cut test, can not accomplish to settle at one go, and need very rich practice experience through the assembly of model repeatedly.

Summary of the invention

Technical problem to be solved by this invention provides a kind of new method of fitted pants plate-making, i.e. crease line fixed number localization method.This method is at the present situation and deficiency of current fitted pants plate-making, determined the reference line of new crease line location according to lower body bone characteristics and 3 D human body feature, find out the reference data of location crease line by the anthropological measuring experiment, and studied crease line and characteristics of human body's Changing Pattern, be applied to realize the succinct, flexible and changeable of fitted pants structural designs in the fitted pants plate-making.

The technical solution adopted for the present invention to solve the technical problems is: the fitted pants method for platemaking of a kind of crease line fixed number location is provided, comprises the following steps:

1) draw rectangle abcd, ab=hip circumference/2+ shelves are wide, and the dark-waistband of the upright shelves of ac=determines that rump greatly $\mathrm{ae}=\frac{H}{4}+1,$ Preceding stern greatly $\mathrm{gb}=\frac{H}{4}-1,$ Total crotch is wide $\mathrm{eg}=\frac{14}{100}H;$ H is a hip circumference;

2) on ac, get $\mathrm{aQ}=\frac{2}{3}\mathrm{ac}$ Make hipline QK, give M, N 2 points with gh, ef respectively;

3) determine crease line position, front and back: the M point is got ML=A=9cm excessively, does vertical line through L and is the rear panel crease line, gets NP=B=7.5cm equally, and P does vertical line and is the anter crease line excessively, and makes trousers length, i.e. pin mouth line SBL;

4) do in crotch line KL: hipline HL is to the mid point of the distance of the pin mouth line SBL 4cm that makes progress;

5) front and back waist line: preceding left front is cast aside into 1cm, and anter rivel size is 2.5cm, and the Attacking Midfielder is wide to be

Each 2cm of two provincial highway sizes of rear panel, wide low back is

Back medium dip angle 15: 3, the size that warps is 2.5cm; W is a waistline;

6) determine that big or small crotch is wide;

7) determine that middle crotch is wide: preceding crease line and KL line intersection point are to each amount of crease line both sides

Back crease line and KL line intersection point are to each amount of crease line both sides

8) determine that the pin mouth is wide: preceding crease line and pin mouth line SBL line intersection point are to each amount of crease line both sides

Back crease line and SBL line intersection point are to each amount of crease line both sides

9) draw along front and back crotch camber line, external latasuture line in the front and back.

The step that described method is applied in the conventional fitted pants style comprises:

1) draws rectangle abcd, ab=60cm, ac=24; , rump greatly $\mathrm{ae}=\frac{H}{4}+1=24.5\mathrm{cm},$ Preceding stern greatly $\mathrm{gb}=\frac{H}{4}-1=22.5\mathrm{cm},$ Total crotch is wide $\mathrm{eg}=\frac{14}{100}H=13\mathrm{cm};$ H is a hip circumference;

2) on ac, get $\mathrm{aQ}=\frac{2}{3}\mathrm{ac}=16\mathrm{cm}$ Make hipline QK, give M, N 2 points with gh, ef respectively;

3) determine the front and back crease line: the M point is got ML=A=9cm excessively, does vertical line through L and is the rear panel crease line, gets NP=B=7.5cm equally, and P does vertical line and is the anter crease line excessively, and makes trousers length, i.e. pin mouth line SBL;

4) do in crotch line KL: hipline HL is to the mid point of the distance of the pin mouth line SBL 4cm that makes progress;

5) front and back waist line: preceding left front is cast aside into 1cm, and anter rivel size is 2.5cm, and the Attacking Midfielder is wide to be $\frac{\mathrm{<figure-callout\; id="4"\; label="W"\; filenames="A20081003467600131.png"\; state="\{\{state\}\}">W</figure-callout>}}{4}+2.5=20\mathrm{cm},$ Each 2cm of two provincial highway sizes of rear panel, wide low back is $\frac{\mathrm{<figure-callout\; id="4"\; label="W"\; filenames="A20081003467600131.png"\; state="\{\{state\}\}">W</figure-callout>}}{4}+4=21.5\mathrm{cm},$ Back medium dip angle 15: 3, the size that warps is 2.5cm; W is a waistline;

6) big or small crotch is wide: get the wide 10cm of big crotch, the wide 3cm of little crotch;

7) get in crotch wide: each is measured to the crease line both sides for preceding crease line and KL line intersection point Back crease line and KL line intersection point are to each amount of crease line both sides

8) the pin mouth is wide: preceding crease line and pin mouth line SBL line intersection point are to each amount of crease line both sides

Back crease line and SBL line intersection point are to each amount of crease line both sides

9) draw along front and back crotch camber line, external latasuture line in the front and back.

Described method is applied to the unconventional step of cutting apart in the style and comprises:

1) draws rectangle abcd, ab=60cm, ac=24; , the big wide ae=10 of crotch, the wide gb=3 of little crotch.

2) make hipline KQ,, on ac, get $\mathrm{ak}=\frac{2}{3}\mathrm{ac}=16\mathrm{cm},$ And cross K and make KQ//ab, intersect at N, M point respectively with gh, ef;

3) determine the front and back crease line: the M point is got ML=B=7.5cm excessively, does vertical line through L and is the rear panel crease line, gets NP=A=9cm equally, and P does vertical line and is the anter crease line excessively, and makes trousers length, i.e. pin mouth line SBL;

4) do in crotch line KL: hipline HL is to the mid point of the distance of the pin mouth line SBL 4cm that makes progress;

5) got medium dip angle, back 15: 3, draw along the seat camber line;

6) get tg=2cm, draw along preceding crotch camber line;

7) on middle-grade line KL, cross E and get

On pin mouth line SBL, get

8) moulding of close examination cut-off rule is made j, F, T three points apart from the front and back crease line apart from size according to cut-off rule, and connects along 3 one-tenth circles along camber line;

9) in like manner, make n, I, W 3 points, and connect along 3 one-tenth circles along camber line;

10) determine k, m point: known

Pq=2.5, gi=2cm then gets $\mathrm{ik}=\mathrm{mn}=\frac{\mathrm{it}-35-2.5}{2};$

11)CD＝KL-DE＝17.5-12＝5.5，KL＝PQ-JK＝9+3-10＝2；

12) according to Fig. 4 (structural design of conventional style) as can be known

Therefore in the offbeat form design, get FG=5cm equally, HI=3.5cm, thus determine G, H point;

13) according to the middle-grade and residual quantity pin mouth, get TU=6.5cm, determine the V point according to pin mouth size, make KT+UV+WY=forward foot in a step mouth wide+rear foot mouth is wide=40cm;

14) connect k, G, 3 one-tenth circles of U along camber line, connection m, H, 3 of V become round along camber line.

The present invention can reduce the test stage of sample clothing.And for the automatic generation of fitted pants model provides infrastructural support, not only simple in the application of conventional style, quick, require lower to experience; On unconventional style is used, need not cut apart splicing, just can follow and carry out structural design according to style figure, reduce the repetition test link of model centre, and provide a kind of new method and thinking for the structural design of unconventional style.

Beneficial effect

1) inquires into from the angle of crease line, take into full account the characteristics of human body, reach the aesthetic property in the moulding, the comfortableness in the dress.Enriched the structural design theory of fitted pants, achievement in research helps to hold better the relation between human body lower limbs characteristics of human body and the fitted pants structure, and the structural design of fitted pants is had certain directive significance and evocation.

2) growing along with clothes informationization, digitizing technique, urgent need is come out of from traditional apparel construction research method, with scientific methods experience is in the past concluded, the utilization mathematical tool, set up the structure applications model, sum up universal law, and universal law is summarized and quantitative description, thereby form the apparel construction design theory of system, instruct practice from new height.Therefore, the meaning of this method also is to provide front-end technology support and necessary theoretical foundation for the fitted pants paper pattern design realizes automation generation and effect prediction.

3) a kind of new method and thinking are provided for unconventional fitted pants structural design.

Description of drawings

Three kinds of traditional common methods of crease line are determined in Fig. 1～3:

Fig. 1 is three symmetry approach; Fig. 2 is outer folk prescription method; Fig. 3 equation;

The method for platemaking of Fig. 4 crease line fixed number location;

Fig. 5 crease line fixed number positioning pressing trousers design sketch;

The unconventional trousers style figure of cutting apart of Fig. 6;

Fig. 7 crease line fixed number positioning mode is in the unconventional application of cutting apart in the trousers (structure chart);

Fig. 8 crease line fixed number positioning mode is in the unconventional application of cutting apart in the trousers (design sketch).

The specific embodiment

Below in conjunction with specific embodiment, further set forth the present invention.Should be understood that these embodiment only to be used to the present invention is described and be not used in and limit the scope of the invention.Should be understood that in addition those skilled in the art can make various changes or modifications the present invention after the content of having read the present invention's instruction, these equivalent form of values fall within the application's appended claims institute restricted portion equally.

Embodiment 1, the application in conventional fitted pants style:

Now, the step with crease line fixed number location graphic arts process is introduced in conjunction with given specification.The fitted pants specification is as shown in table 1 below:

Table 1 sample trousers specification

Unit: cm

Trousers length	Waistline	Hip circumference	Upright crotch is dark	Crotch is wide	Middle crotch encloses	The pin mouth encloses
							96	70	94	27	13	44	40

Main drawing step following (shown in the method for platemaking of Fig. 4 crease line fixed number location):

1) draws rectangle abcd, ab=60cm, ac=24; , rump greatly $\mathrm{ae}=\frac{\mathrm{<figure-callout\; id="4"\; label="H"\; filenames="A20081003467600131.png"\; state="\{\{state\}\}">H</figure-callout>}}{4}+1=24.5\mathrm{cm},$ Preceding stern greatly $\mathrm{gb}=\frac{H}{4}-1=22.5\mathrm{cm},$ Total crotch is wide $\mathrm{eg}=\frac{14}{100}H=13\mathrm{cm};$ (H is a hip circumference)

2) on ac, get $\mathrm{aQ}=\frac{2}{3}\mathrm{ac}=16\mathrm{cm}$ Make hipline QK, give M, N 2 points with gh, ef respectively.

3) determine the front and back crease line: the M point is got ML=A=9cm excessively, does vertical line through L and is the rear panel crease line, gets NP=B=7.5cm equally, and P does vertical line and is the anter crease line excessively, and makes trousers length, i.e. pin mouth line SBL;

4) do in crotch line KL: hipline HL is to the mid point of the distance of the pin mouth line SBL 4cm that makes progress;

5) front and back waist line: preceding left front is cast aside into 1cm, and anter rivel size is 2.5cm, and the Attacking Midfielder is wide to be $\frac{\mathrm{<figure-callout\; id="4"\; label="W"\; filenames="A20081003467600131.png"\; state="\{\{state\}\}">W</figure-callout>}}{4}+2.5=20\mathrm{cm},$ Each 2cm of two provincial highway sizes of rear panel, wide low back is $\frac{\mathrm{<figure-callout\; id="4"\; label="W"\; filenames="A20081003467600131.png"\; state="\{\{state\}\}">W</figure-callout>}}{4}+4=21.5\mathrm{cm},$ Back medium dip angle 15: 3, the size that warps is 2.5cm; (W is a waistline)

6) big or small crotch is wide: get the wide 10cm of big crotch, the wide 3cm of little crotch;

7) get in crotch wide: each is measured to the crease line both sides for preceding crease line and KL line intersection point

Back crease line and KL line intersection point are to each amount of crease line both sides

8) the pin mouth is wide: preceding crease line and pin mouth line SBL line intersection point are to each amount of crease line both sides Back crease line and SBL line intersection point are to each amount of crease line both sides

9) draw along front and back crotch camber line, external latasuture line in the front and back.

Embodiment 2, in the unconventional application of cutting apart in the style

1) set preceding crease line position A=9cm, back crease line position B=7.5cm does not have the structural design key step following (as shown in Figure 7) of external latasuture and draws rectangle abcd, ab=60cm, ac=24; , the big wide ae=10 of crotch, the wide gb=3 of little crotch.

2) make hipline KQ,, on ac, get $\mathrm{ak}=\frac{2}{3}\mathrm{ac}=16\mathrm{cm},$ And cross K and make KQ//ab, intersect at N, M point respectively with gh, ef;

3) determine the front and back crease line: the M point is got ML=B=7.5cm excessively, does vertical line through L and is the rear panel crease line, gets NP=A=9cm equally, and P does vertical line and is the anter crease line excessively, and makes trousers length, i.e. pin mouth line SBL;

4) do in crotch line KL: hipline HL is to the mid point of the distance of the pin mouth line SBL 4cm that makes progress;

5) got medium dip angle, back 15: 3, draw along the seat camber line;

6) get tg=2cm, draw along preceding crotch camber line;

7) on middle-grade line KL, cross E and get

On pin mouth line SBL, get

8) moulding of close examination cut-off rule is made j, F, T three points apart from the front and back crease line apart from size according to cut-off rule, and connects along 3 one-tenth circles along camber line;

9) in like manner, make n, I, W 3 points, and connect along 3 one-tenth circles along camber line;

10) determine k, m point: known

Pq=2.5, gi=2cm then gets $\mathrm{ik}=\mathrm{mn}=\frac{\mathrm{it}-35-2.5}{2};$

11)CD＝KL-DE＝17.5-12＝5.5，KL＝PQ-JK＝9+3-10＝2；

12) according to Fig. 4 (structural design of conventional style) as can be known

Therefore in the offbeat form design, get FG=5cm equally, HI=3.5cm, thus determine G, H point;

13) according to the middle-grade and residual quantity pin mouth, get TU=6.5cm, determine the V point according to pin mouth size, make KT+UV+WY=forward foot in a step mouth wide+rear foot mouth is wide=40cm;

14) connect k, G, 3 one-tenth circles of U along camber line, connection m, H, 3 of V become round along camber line.

Claims (3)

1. the fitted pants method for platemaking of a crease line fixed number location comprises the following steps:

1) draw rectangle abcd, ab=hip circumference/2+ shelves are wide, and the dark-waistband of the upright shelves of ac=determines that rump greatly $\mathrm{ae}=\frac{H}{4}+1,$ Preceding stern greatly $\mathrm{gb}=\frac{H}{4}-1,$ Total crotch is wide $\mathrm{eg}=\frac{14}{100}H;$ H is a hip circumference;

2) on ac, get $\mathrm{aQ}=\frac{2}{3}\mathrm{ac}$ Make hipline QK, give M, N 2 points with gh, ef respectively;

3) determine crease line position, front and back: the M point is got ML=A=9cm excessively, does vertical line through L and is the rear panel crease line, gets NP=B=7.5cm equally, and P does vertical line and is the anter crease line excessively, and makes trousers length, i.e. pin mouth line SBL;

4) do in crotch line KL: hipline HL is to the mid point of the distance of the pin mouth line SBL 4cm that makes progress;

5) front and back waist line: preceding left front is cast aside into 1cm, and anter rivel size is 2.5cm, and the Attacking Midfielder is wide to be

Each 2cm of two provincial highway sizes of rear panel, wide low back is

Back medium dip angle 15: 3, the size that warps is 2.5cm; W is a waistline;

6) determine that big or small crotch is wide;

7) determine that middle crotch is wide: preceding crease line and KL line intersection point are to each amount of crease line both sides

Back crease line and KL line intersection point are to each amount of crease line both sides

8) determine that the pin mouth is wide: preceding crease line and pin mouth line SBL line intersection point are to each amount of crease line both sides

Back crease line and SBL line intersection point are to each amount of crease line both sides

9) draw along front and back crotch camber line, external latasuture line in the front and back.

2. the fitted pants method for platemaking of a kind of crease line fixed number according to claim 1 location, the step that described method is applied in the conventional fitted pants style comprises:

1) draws rectangle abcd, ab=60cm, ac=24; , rump greatly $\mathrm{ae}=\frac{H}{4}+1=24.5\mathrm{cm},$ Preceding stern greatly $\frac{H}{4}-1=22.5\mathrm{cm},$ Total crotch is wide $\mathrm{eg}=\frac{14}{100}H=13\mathrm{cm};$ H is a hip circumference;

2) on ac, get $\mathrm{aQ}=\frac{2}{3}\mathrm{ac}=16\mathrm{cm}$ Make hipline QK, give M, N 2 points with gh, ef respectively;

3) determine the front and back crease line: the M point is got ML=A=9cm excessively, does vertical line through L and is the rear panel crease line, gets NP=B=7.5cm equally, and P does vertical line and is the anter crease line excessively, and makes trousers length, i.e. pin mouth line SBL;

4) do in crotch line KL: hipline HL is to the mid point of the distance of the pin mouth line SBL 4cm that makes progress;

5) front and back waist line: preceding left front is cast aside into 1cm, and anter rivel size is 2.5cm, and the Attacking Midfielder is wide to be $\frac{W}{4}+2.5=20\mathrm{cm},$ Each 2cm of two provincial highway sizes of rear panel, wide low back is $\frac{W}{4}+4=21.5\mathrm{cm},$ Back medium dip angle 15: 3, the size that warps is 2.5cm; W is a waistline;

6) big or small crotch is wide: get the wide 10cm of big crotch, the wide 3cm of little crotch;

7) get in crotch wide: each is measured to the crease line both sides for preceding crease line and KL line intersection point

Back crease line and KL line intersection point are to each amount of crease line both sides

8) the pin mouth is wide: preceding crease line and pin mouth line SBL line intersection point are to each amount of crease line both sides

Back crease line and SBL line intersection point are to each amount of crease line both sides

9) draw along front and back crotch camber line, external latasuture line in the front and back.

3. the fitted pants method for platemaking of a kind of crease line fixed number according to claim 1 location, described method is applied to the unconventional step of cutting apart in the style and comprises:

1) draws rectangle abcd, ab=60cm, ac=24; , the big wide ae=10 of crotch, the wide gb=3 of little crotch.

2) make hipline KQ,, on ac, get $\mathrm{ak}=\frac{2}{3}\mathrm{ac}=16\mathrm{cm},$ And cross K and make KQ//ab, intersect at N, M point respectively with gh, ef;

3) determine the front and back crease line: the M point is got ML=B=7.5cm excessively, does vertical line through L and is the rear panel crease line, gets NP=A=9cm equally, and P does vertical line and is the anter crease line excessively, and makes trousers length, i.e. pin mouth line SBL;

4) do in crotch line KL: hipline HL is to the mid point of the distance of the pin mouth line SBL 4cm that makes progress;

5) got medium dip angle, back 15: 3, draw along the seat camber line;

6) get tg=2cm, draw along preceding crotch camber line;

7) on middle-grade line KL, cross E and get

On pin mouth line SBL, get

8) moulding of close examination cut-off rule is made j, F, T three points apart from the front and back crease line apart from size according to cut-off rule, and connects along 3 one-tenth circles along camber line;

9) in like manner, make n, I, W 3 points, and connect along 3 one-tenth circles along camber line;

10) determine k, m point: known Pq=2.5, gi=2cm then gets $\mathrm{ik}=\mathrm{mn}=\frac{\mathrm{it}-35-2.5}{2};$

11)CD＝KL-DE＝17.5-12＝5.5，KL＝PQ-JK＝9+3-10＝2；

12) according to Fig. 4 (structural design of conventional style) as can be known

Therefore in the offbeat form design, get FG=5cm equally, HI=3.5cm, thus determine G, H point;

13) according to the middle-grade and residual quantity pin mouth, get TU=6.5cm, determine the V point according to pin mouth size, make KT+UV+WY=forward foot in a step mouth wide+rear foot mouth is wide=40cm;

14) connect k, G, 3 one-tenth circles of U along camber line, connection m, H, 3 of V become round along camber line.

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