CN101292946B - Cosmetic composition for whitening skin - Google Patents
Cosmetic composition for whitening skin Download PDFInfo
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- CN101292946B CN101292946B CN2008100282036A CN200810028203A CN101292946B CN 101292946 B CN101292946 B CN 101292946B CN 2008100282036 A CN2008100282036 A CN 2008100282036A CN 200810028203 A CN200810028203 A CN 200810028203A CN 101292946 B CN101292946 B CN 101292946B
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Abstract
The invention discloses a cosmetic composite for whitening the skin. The active components of the cosmetic composite comprise licorice extract, matsutake extract, vitamin C or the derivatives thereof, as well as vitamin B3. The cosmetic composite of the invention is characterized in that natural extracts are used as the main raw materials compounded with vitamin active additive, and various ingredients are combined and mixed rationally to achieve the efficacies of inhibiting the formation of melanin and lightening skin color through a number of ways.
Description
Technical field
The present invention relates to cosmetic field, be specifically related to a kind of cosmetic composition that is used for skin whitening.
Background technology
The design of the product of skin whitening at present mainly realizes through the restraint of tyrosinase activity, has reported the tyrosinase inhibitor of a large amount of natural origins, like arbutin, kojic acid etc.; Be proved to be the good clinical effect; But the Along with people's progress of research is found that melanic generative process has number of ways in fact, and the participation of plurality of enzymes is arranged; And distribution and the performance in skin also has very big influence to melanic transfer process to melanin; Therefore the process of skin whitening should not only suppress this approach from tryrosinase, if can act on simultaneously from a plurality of mechanism, should reach better whitening effect.But multipath acts on melanic generation and transfer process; Must consider safety, otherwise can have a strong impact on the normal physiological metabolism of dermal melanin, therefore select some active skull cap components, vitamin active composition to combine; Mode with combination and cooperation plays the effect that melanin generates and shifts that suppresses; And can safeguard the normal physiological metabolism and the function of skin, thereby reach safe and effective whitening effect, have very important significance.
Summary of the invention
The purpose of this invention is to provide a kind of cosmetic composition that is used for skin whitening; This cosmetic composition is primary raw material with the natural extract; Composite vitamin activity additive; Utilize various composition reasonable combination, cooperate sharedly, reach the effect that suppresses melanic generation, the desalination colour of skin through number of ways.
A kind of cosmetic composition that is used for skin whitening provided by the invention is characterized in that, the main active component of this cosmetic composition is Radix Glycyrrhizae extract or Tricholoma matsutake (lto et lmai) Singer extract or both mixture.
Further perfect as technical scheme of the present invention, the active component of this cosmetic composition also contains vitamin C or derivatives thereof and vitamin B3.
In the above-mentioned active component, described Radix Glycyrrhizae extract be meant from medicinal plants Radix Glycyrrhizae (Glycyrrhiza) purity extracted through extraction process in the glabridin more than 35% (Glabridin) or purity at the glycyrrhizic acid dipotassium more than 60% (Dipotassium Glycyrrhizinate) active component; Described Tricholoma matsutake (lto et lmai) Singer extract is meant from edible bacterium Tricholoma matsutake (lto et lmai) Singer (formal name used at school trichotoma matsutake sing, another name Trichotoma matsutake, loose mushroom; The big foot mushroom, Fructificatio Fomitopsis Officinalis, classification position belongs to Eumycota; Basidiomycotina; Mushroom order, Tricholomataceae, Tricholoma) with the solid content of low-temperature extraction technology extraction at the ethanol soluble component more than 1%; Described vitamin C derivatives is meant the vitamin C derivative compound that generates through chemical modification, comprises metallic salt, VC and the esters of various acid formation and the chemical compound of VC and saccharide etc. of VC; Said vitamin B3 has another name called nicotiamide, vitamin PP, chemical name " 3-ascorbyl palmitate ".
The relative content of the component of preparation cosmetic composition of the present invention is:
Radix Glycyrrhizae extract 0～1.00,
Tricholoma matsutake (lto et lmai) Singer extract 0～10.00,
Vitamin C or derivatives thereof 0.01～5.00,
Vitamin B3 0.30～5.00,
Surplus is substrate commonly used and deionized water or the purified water or the distilled water of cosmetics exterior-applied formulation,
In the said components, the relative content of Radix Glycyrrhizae extract and Tricholoma matsutake (lto et lmai) Singer extract is not zero simultaneously.
The preferred relative content of the component of preparation cosmetic composition of the present invention is:
Radix Glycyrrhizae extract 0.01～0.50,
Tricholoma matsutake (lto et lmai) Singer extract 0.50～5.00,
Vitamin C or derivatives thereof 0.01～3.00,
Vitamin B3 0.50～3.00,
Surplus is substrate commonly used and deionized water or the purified water or the distilled water of cosmetics exterior-applied formulation.
The best relative content of the component of preparation cosmetic composition of the present invention is:
Radix Glycyrrhizae extract 0.20,
Tricholoma matsutake (lto et lmai) Singer extract 1.00,
Vitamin C or derivatives thereof 0.50,
Vitamin B3 1.00,
Surplus is substrate commonly used and deionized water or the purified water or the distilled water of cosmetics exterior-applied formulation.
Cosmetic composition of the present invention can adopt common process to process forms such as cleansing milk (breast/frost), whitening cream frost/emulsion, the water of whitening, whitening gelatin.
In the raw material of preparation cosmetic composition of the present invention, Tricholoma matsutake (lto et lmai) Singer (Tricholoma Matsutake Singer), the formal name used at school Trichotoma matsutake has another name called armillaria Matsutake, belongs to Chinese Second Class Key Protected Plant.Tricholoma matsutake (lto et lmai) Singer extensively is distributed in China northeast, southwest, and especially with Yunnan great reputation the most, for the wild rare fungus in this famous and precious plateau of Tricholoma matsutake (lto et lmai) Singer, it is nutritious, contains multiple proteins, aminoacid, polysaccharide, vitamin and mineral
[1], extensive use in health food and medicine, have lot of documents report it had building body, be prone to freely be good for the stomach, activating QI to eliminate phlegm, pain relieving anthelmintic, inhibition tumor and effect such as anticancer; Application facet data in cosmetics is less.
A kind of active component one glabridin (Glabridin) contained in the dry root (stem) of Glycyrrhiza glabra L. Glycyrrhiza glabra L. has stronger Oxidation, atherosclerosis and effects such as certain blood fat reducing, blood pressure lowering, in the research of cardiovascular disease control medicine, demonstrates good research prospect.Glabridin is used for the daily use chemicals skin care item; Can go deep into skin inside and keep high activity; The activity that effectively suppresses plurality of enzymes in the melanocyte generative process; Active inhibition is higher than Arbutin, kojic acid, dimension C and hydroquinone to tryrosinase (TYR), can also suppress the activity of dopachrome interconvertible enzyme (TRP-2) simultaneously, has the usefulness of whitening fast and efficiently.Have the pachylosis of preventing and antiinflammatory, antimicrobial effect simultaneously, and have ability and the oxidation resistance of similar dimension E of the removing oxygen-derived free radicals of similar SOD.The cell in vitro experimentation is found; Glabridin compares with some whitening medicaments the effect aspect of B16 melanoma cells, as a result licoflavone and cytotoxicity extremely low; Suitable with ascorbic derivant, and hydroquinone and arbutin have significant cytotoxicity.The conclusion glabridin has the active and melanogenic effect of stronger restraint of tyrosinase, and is lower to melanocytic cytotoxicity simultaneously, is safer effective whitening medicaments.
Vitamin C is a kind of well-known skin-whitening agents; It can promote the synthetic of ossein and suppress the lipids peroxidating; Its main mechanism of action is following: the reduction dopachrome is colourless dopachrome, suppresses the generation of melanocyte, makes black dull skin recover delicate; Have anti-radical action, suppress the lipids peroxidating with aging, the radical damage that especially ultraviolet is caused plays and delays and neutral effect, helps to prevent the skin blackening; Promote the recovery and the generation of skin elasticity albumen and collagen protein, make skin maintenance, the vigor of renewing one's youth, thereby reach antidotal effect.
Nicotiamide (vitamin B3), clinical medicine prove that nicotiamide can promote the energy metabolism of cell, are lipid metabolisms, and the Oxidation of Tissue respiration and glycogen decompose required composition, and its composition can influence eupnea and the metabolism of cell and pellagra takes place when lacking.Show that nicotiamide has anti-inflammatory activity, can promote inductive DNA damage reparations such as ultraviolet, it is radiating photic carcinous to suppress UVB, is widely used in dermatosiss such as pellagra, persistency protuberance erythema, acne clinically already.The principle of whitening of nicotiamide mainly contains some: act on the melanocyte that has produced, reduce it and shift to cells of superficial layer; Quicken metabolism, promote melaniferous horn cell to come off; Promote epidermal area proteinic synthetic, improve the skin quality.
The characteristics of cosmetic composition of the present invention are to be primary raw material with the natural herb extract; Composite vitamin activity additive; Mode with combination and cooperation plays the effect that melanin generates and shifts that suppresses; And can safeguard the normal physiological metabolism and the function of skin, suppress the melanic generation and the desalination colour of skin, have safe and effective whitening effect through number of ways.
The specific embodiment
Skin whitening cosmetic composition provided by the invention is to be main component with Tricholoma matsutake (lto et lmai) Singer extract and Radix Glycyrrhizae extract; Be aided with vitamin C or derivatives thereof, vitamin B3, and add cosmetics matrix components emulsifying agent commonly used, oils and fats, emollient, wetting agent, gellant, glycerol, propylene glycol, antiseptic, essence and deionized water or purified water or distilled water and process.The present invention will be described to enumerate a part of specific embodiment below, is necessary to be pointed out that at this following specific embodiment only is used for the present invention is described further, and do not represent the restriction to protection domain of the present invention.Some nonessential modifications that other people make according to the present invention and adjustment still belong to protection scope of the present invention.
Embodiment 1
Whitening gelatin:
Component and the relative content thereof of forming above-mentioned whitening gelatin product are:
Radix Glycyrrhizae extract 0.50
Vitamin C phosphoric ester sodium 2.00
Nicotiamide 1.00
Carbomer 0.50
Triethanolamine 2.00
Propylene glycol 5.00
The deionized water surplus
Surplus is the sterilization deionized water.
The method for preparing of above-mentioned whitening gelatin product comprises the following steps:
(1) carbomer is mixed with glycerol, deionized water, stir and make its dissolving;
(2) the triethanolamine water is dissolved into 10% solution;
(3) triethanolamine solution of being prepared is added the carbomer glycerite, the limit edged stirs, and promptly gets clear gel substrate after stirring;
(4) extracting liquorice extract adds propylene glycol, stirs and makes its mix homogeneously, adds vitamin C phosphoric ester sodium again, nicotiamide is processed mixed liquor;
(5) solution and the gel-type vehicle mixing and stirring that Radix Glycyrrhizae extract etc. are mixed, deionized water adds to full dose;
(6) regulate between pH value to 5.5～6.5;
(8) above-mentioned gel is tested, qualified after, carry out fill again and promptly get the whitening gelatin skin care item.
Whitening gelatin of the present invention is a natural component---the composite vitamin active composition of Radix Glycyrrhizae extract is processed; The natural gentleness of raw material; Zest to skin is little, and used several kinds of active component to act on melanic approach different, can more comprehensively suppress melanic generation and transfer; Whitening effect is more lasting, and the normal physiological function of skin is also had adjusting and facilitation.
Embodiment 2
Whitening gelatin:
Component and the relative content thereof of forming above-mentioned whitening gelatin product are:
Tricholoma matsutake (lto et lmai) Singer extract 2.00
Vitamin C phosphoric ester sodium 2.50
Nicotiamide 0.50
Carbomer 0.80
Triethanolamine 2.50
Propylene glycol 4.00
Glycerol 20.00
The deionized water surplus
The method for preparing of above-mentioned whitening gelatin product comprises the following steps:
(1) carbomer is mixed with glycerol, deionized water, stir and make its dissolving;
(2) the triethanolamine water is dissolved into 10% solution;
(3) triethanolamine solution of being prepared is added the carbomer glycerite, the limit edged stirs, and promptly gets clear gel substrate after stirring;
(4) get Tricholoma matsutake (lto et lmai) Singer extract, add propylene glycol, stir and make its mix homogeneously, add vitamin C phosphoric ester sodium again, nicotiamide is processed mixed liquor;
(5) solution and the gel-type vehicle mixing and stirring that Tricholoma matsutake (lto et lmai) Singer extract etc. are mixed, deionized water adds to full dose;
(6) regulate between pH value to 5.5～6.5;
(8) above-mentioned gel is tested, qualified after, carry out fill again and promptly get the whitening gelatin skin care item.
Whitening gelatin of the present invention is a natural component---the composite vitamin active composition of Tricholoma matsutake (lto et lmai) Singer extract is processed; The natural gentleness of raw material; Zest to skin is little, and used several kinds of active component to act on melanic approach different, can more comprehensively suppress melanic generation and transfer; Whitening effect is more lasting, and the normal physiological function of skin is also had adjusting and facilitation.
Embodiment 3
Whitening cleansing milk:
Component and the relative content thereof of forming above-mentioned whitening cleansing milk are:
AES(70％) 8.00
Sodium lauroyl sarcosine (30%) 2.00
Cocamido propyl betaine (35%) 1.50
Card ripple 2,020 0.80
Glycerol 2.00
Triethanolamine 1.20
Tricholoma matsutake (lto et lmai) Singer extract 2.00
Radix Glycyrrhizae extract (glycyrrhizic acid dipotassium) 0.50
Vitamin C phosphoric ester sodium 0.10
Antiseptic 0.10
Essence is an amount of
The deionized water surplus
The method for preparing of above-mentioned whitening cleansing milk is:
Get carbomer, add glycerol, deionized water mixing, stir and make its dissolving; Get triethanolamine and use distilled water diluting; The triethanolamine solution of being prepared is added the carbomer glycerite, and the limit edged stirs, and promptly gets clear gel substrate after stirring; Get AES (70%), add in the above-mentioned clear gel, heating (being no more than 75 ℃) stirring and dissolving; Add sodium lauroyl sarcosine, cocamido propyl betaine, cooling is reduced to below 45 ℃, adds surplus stock successively, and stirring and dissolving is even.Detect pH value, viscosity, microorganism before the discharging, qualifiedly get final product fill.Regulating the facial milk cleanser Ph value of coming out is 6.0～7.0, viscosity 7,000～20,000cPa.s (25 ℃).
Embodiment 4
Skin whitener:
Component and the relative content thereof of forming above-mentioned skin whitener are:
Oil phase:
BRIJ 72 (hard ester alcohol ether-2) 1.50
BRIJ721 (hard ester alcohol ether-21) 3.00
Spermol 1.50
Single glyceride 2.50
White mineral oil 8.00
Isopropyl palmitate 5.00
Squalane 3.00
Dimension C cetylate 0.50
Nicotiamide 1.00
BHT antioxidant 0.03
Water:
The deionized water surplus
HANSHENGJIAO 0.20
Disodiumedetate 0.10
Glycerol 3.00
Low temperature adds after the emulsifying:
Propylene glycol 5.00
Radix Glycyrrhizae extract (glabridin) 0.20
Tricholoma matsutake (lto et lmai) Singer extract 1.00
Sargassum extract 3.00
Essence is an amount of
Antiseptic is an amount of
After oil phase, water be heated to 80 ℃ respectively; The equal prime number of biphase mixing minute stirs cooling, cools to 45 ℃ and adds Radix Glycyrrhizae extracts (glabridin), Tricholoma matsutake (lto et lmai) Singer extract, Sargassum extract, essence, antiseptic; Stir, 35 ℃ become the uniform mastic of faint yellow exquisiteness.
The on probation observation
Adopting the skin whitener of the embodiment of the invention 4 preparations is that example is carried out observation of curative effect, in the crowd, carries out the effect test, and the observation user colour of skin is in use improved, the improvement of skin condition.Choose healthy women (35 ± 6 years old mean age about 30; Skin type is III, IV type); Method for using is according to the rules tried out skin whitener, around 0 day, the, the 8th week is to being tried to carry out the assessment of skin, comprises clinical judgment, the assessment of non-wound property instrument and photograph taking.Clinical judge comprises following parameter: skin color, skin homogeneity, skin glossiness, pigmentation and mottle.Non-wound property instrument assessment is to utilize Chromameter CR200 through detecting LAB value assessing skin color, rubescent and dark yellow degree, utilizes Mexameter MX16 to detect pigment exponential sum erythema index assessing skin pigmentation and erythema degree.Data utilize SPSS 11.5 For Windows softwares to add up.The data of experiment are following:
The result in table one clinical assessment basic value, 4 weeks and 8 weeks
| Meansigma methods | Basic value (0 week) | Around | The 8th week |
| Skin color | 4.96 | 3.85 | 3.88 |
| The skin homogeneity | 5.93 | 4.44 | 3.92 |
| The skin glossiness | 4.74 | 3.14 | 3.18 |
| The skin smooth degree | 4.56 | 2.81 | 3.25 |
| Pigmentation | 5.67 | 4.51 | 4.00 |
| Mottle | 5.44 | 4.44 | 4.18 |
Annotate: judgment criteria is 0 ~ 9 minute, and 0 is divided into best situation, and 9 are divided into the poorest situation.
Can find out from above-mentioned data result, compare that parameters is around the and improvement all arranged in the 8th week, around the, all there were significant differences between the 8th week and basic value property (showing the downward trend that each item numerical value is passed in time) with basic value.Wherein the homogeneity of skin, pigmentation, mottle assessed value around 0 week,, be obvious downward trend the 8th week, that is to say that passing in time has lasting improvement.And the improvement of skin color, glossiness has just reached obvious effects around 0 thoughtful the, and continue used for the 8th week, the effect of improvement can access effective continuity, does not see bounce-back (as improving effect decline).
The result in table two pigment index and erythema index basic value, 4 weeks and 8 weeks
| Meansigma methods | Basic value (0 week) | Around | The 8th week |
| The pigment index | 487.59 | 481.93 | 480.07 |
| The erythema index | 596.33 | 601.37 | 596.96 |
Can find out from top data, the pigment index around the, the 8th week all downward trend was arranged than basic value, can find out that the effect of whitening just manifests around the, along with the continuity of time, whitening effect still has continuity.And the erythema index uses the correlated variation no significant difference in front and back, proves that the use of product is good to the mildness of skin.
Claims (4)
1. cosmetic composition that is used for skin whitening; It is characterized in that; The main active component of this cosmetic composition is the mixture of Tricholoma matsutake (lto et lmai) Singer extract or Radix Glycyrrhizae extract and Tricholoma matsutake (lto et lmai) Singer extract; Described Radix Glycyrrhizae extract be meant from the medicinal plants Radix Glycyrrhizae purity extracted through extraction process in the glabridin 35% or more or purity at the glycyrrhizic acid dipotassium active component more than 60%, described Tricholoma matsutake (lto et lmai) Singer extract is meant from edible bacterium Tricholoma matsutake (lto et lmai) Singer with the solid content of low-temperature extraction technology extraction at the ethanol soluble component more than 1%.
2. the cosmetic composition that is used for skin whitening according to claim 1; It is characterized in that; The active component of this cosmetic composition also contains vitamin C or derivatives thereof and vitamin B3; Described vitamin C derivatives is meant the vitamin C derivative compound that generates through chemical modification, comprises metallic salt, VC and the esters of various acid formation and the chemical compound of VC and saccharide of VC.
3. the cosmetic composition that is used for skin whitening according to claim 2 is characterized in that, the relative content of the component of this cosmetic composition is:
Radix Glycyrrhizae extract 0.01～0.50,
Tricholoma matsutake (lto et lmai) Singer extract 0.50～5.00,
Vitamin C or derivatives thereof 0.01～3.00,
Vitamin B3 0.50～3.00,
Surplus is substrate commonly used and deionized water or the purified water or the distilled water of cosmetics exterior-applied formulation.
4. the cosmetic composition that is used for skin whitening according to claim 3 is characterized in that, the relative content of the component of this cosmetic composition is:
Radix Glycyrrhizae extract 0.20,
Tricholoma matsutake (lto et lmai) Singer extract 1.00,
Vitamin C or derivatives thereof 0.50,
Vitamin B3 1.00,
Surplus is substrate commonly used and deionized water or the purified water or the distilled water of cosmetics exterior-applied formulation.
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