CN101273807A - Method for producing clothing lattice type plate - Google Patents
Method for producing clothing lattice type plate Download PDFInfo
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- CN101273807A CN101273807A CNA2007100099939A CN200710009993A CN101273807A CN 101273807 A CN101273807 A CN 101273807A CN A2007100099939 A CNA2007100099939 A CN A2007100099939A CN 200710009993 A CN200710009993 A CN 200710009993A CN 101273807 A CN101273807 A CN 101273807A
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Abstract
The invention relates to a garment gridiron-typed board-making method which relates to the technical field of garment cutting, in particular to the garment board-making method. The invention discloses the garment board-making method which takes circumference/16 (jacket) as grid square to divide the size of a finished product and is called the garment gridiron-typed board-making method. The method is characterized in that when in use, the specification size of the finished product of the garment is firstly confirmed, and the grid square is drawn according to the circumference B of a garment piece and by taking X is equal to B/16 as a length unit; then the position of each main part point on the garment pieces in a corresponding grid is confirmed on a piece of grid paper according to grid coordinates of the main control part point of each garment piece in a given 'garment main control part coordinate table', and each point is jointed into a smooth curve so as to obtain a basic paper pattern of the garment with needed style; finally, the basic paper pattern is treated with detailed structural disposal according to style requirement so as to obtain the garment paper pattern with the needed style.
Description
Technical field
The present invention relates to the tailoring technical field, relate in particular to the clothes plate-making method.
Background technology
Paper pattern design is the very important technical extremely strong work of garment enterprise, the proportional method of widely used method, prototyping and fundamental mode method in China's apparel industry structural design.
Rule of three is according to the regression relation between the basic position of human body and the thin portion, calculates each thin portion size with the ratio form at basic position.Its form of calculation is often with the ratio form of the coefficient of variable item in the ratio formula and difference.Be difficult for memory, the also drawing of inconvenient complicated configuration item of clothing.
Prototyping is by the paper human body, by the analysis that body surface is launched, carries out the reasonable simplification of plane structure chart, thereby obtains the human body basic block diagram, and the formula of use is according to a large amount of human body data samplings, obtains through statistical analysis.
Fundamental mode method utilization prototype cutting method is easy to change, and adds the method for cutting out of the plus-minus fixed number of rule of three.The fundamental mode method has remedied the deficiency that prototype cutting does not meet China finished product chest measurement cutting, thereby also remedied the deficiency that China's proportion expression cutting does not adopt uncomfortable a surname of pattern labyrinth of template to design, but still do not break away from the puzzlement of empirical equation, the size at main position is still wanted the qualification of use experience formula.
Summary of the invention
The object of the present invention is to provide a kind ofly can need not computing formula, directly on squared paper, determine position, clothes major control position, thereby obtain clothes basis pattern, make the simpler and plate-making method intuitively of apparel construction design.
For last dress,, with X=B/16 the long measure grid square that draws according to the chest measurement B of different finished product garment pieces; It is abscissa that coordinate system adopts with the upper horizontal line, and center line is an ordinate after the former center line of front cut pieces, the rear garment piece.Then according to corresponding " clothes major control position coordinates table " the grid coordinates of given each garment piece major control position point, determining each major control position point position in corresponding grid on the garment piece on the network of coordinates, each point is linked to be smooth curve, thereby obtain the block pattern of required style dress, require block pattern is carried out the structure processing of thin portion according to style at last, thereby obtain the pattern tissue of required style.
" clothes major control position coordinates table " places magnitude range by chest measurement and is divided into bodily form, fit type and three kinds of forms of loose type (referring to table 1 " fit type front cut pieces control position coordinates table " and table 2 " fit type rear garment piece control position coordinates table ").Major control position front cut pieces has throat point, SNP SIDE NECK POINT, point of shoulder point, the dark point of muffs, chest width point, waist side point etc., and rear garment piece has point behind the neck, SNP SIDE NECK POINT, point of shoulder point, the dark point of muffs, across back point, waist side point etc.
Lattice type paper pattern design method can be studied the proportionate relationship at each position of pattern more intuitively, makes the apparel construction design simpler and directly perceived.For qualitative and quantitative study apparel construction theory provide reliable foundation, also overcome simultaneously fixed cun of a large amount of use experiences in traditional method of cutting out and do not had uniformity and authoritative drawback, shortened design time greatly, reduced design difficulty, being fit to very much enterprise uses, adopt finished size to carry out cutting simultaneously, also meet China's tradition cutting custom.
Description of drawings
Fig. 1 is that rear garment piece basis pattern schematic diagram, Fig. 2 are basic pattern and the corresponding schematic diagram of clothing body pattern for the pattern signal of front cut pieces basis, Fig. 3.
The specific embodiment
1, at style shape-designing ready-made clothes specification
At first design sketch close examination is understood: determine that according to factors such as the occasion of the characteristic of the position of the style of clothes fashion, cut-off rule and effect, garment material dressing, dressing and customs ready-made clothes respectively control the size at position.
Certain configuration item of clothing with the 160/84A type is an example:
Clean body control part bit data (cm) ready-made clothes specifications (cm)
Cervical vertebra point sitting height 62.5 clothing long 66
Arm length 50.5 sleeve lengths 25
Chest measurement 84 chest measurements 96
Shoulder across 39.4 shoulder across 40
Waistline 68 waistlines 78
Hip circumference 90 hip circumferences 96
2, drawing basics pattern
According to the chest measurement B=96cm in the ready-made clothes data, drafting is the grid coordinates of unit with 96/16=X, and according to " clothes major control position coordinates table ", the throat point of definite major control position such as front cut pieces, SNP SIDE NECK POINT, point of shoulder point, the dark point of muffs, chest width point, waist side point etc. on grid coordinates figure, corresponding positions such as point, SNP SIDE NECK POINT, point of shoulder point, the dark point of muffs, across back point, waist side point behind the neck of rear garment piece, connect into the structure line, form basic pattern.
The fit type front cut pieces control of table 1 position coordinates table
| The position | Abscissa | Ordinate |
| Throat point (A) | 0 | (1+1/3)x |
| Side neck point (B) | (1+1/5)x | 0 |
| Point of shoulder point (C) | (3+1/3)x | 2/3x |
| The dark point of armhole (D) | 4x | (3+2/3)x |
| Chest width point (E) | 3x | 4x |
| Waist side point (F) | 4x | (6+2/3)x |
Annotate: X=chest measurement/16 in the table
The fit type rear garment piece control of table 2 position coordinates table
| The position | Abscissa | Ordinate |
| Cervical vertebra point (A) | 0 | 2/5X |
| Side neck point (B) | (1+1/5)X | 0 |
| Point of shoulder point (C) | (3+1/2)X | 2/3X |
| The dark point of armhole (D) | 4X | 4X |
| Chest width point (E) | (3+1/3)X | 4X |
| Waist side point (F) | 4X | 7X |
Annotate: X=chest measurement/16 in the table
Claims (3)
1. be abscissa with the upper horizontal line, center line is an ordinate after the former center line of front cut pieces, the rear garment piece, according to the chest measurement B of different finished product garment pieces, is the grid square that long measure is drawn with X=B/16.
According to corresponding " clothes major control position coordinates table " the grid coordinates of given each garment piece major control position point, determining each major control position point position in corresponding grid on the garment piece on the network of coordinates, each point is linked to be smooth curve, thereby obtain the block pattern of required style dress, require block pattern is carried out the structure processing of thin portion according to style at last, thereby obtain the method for designing of the pattern tissue of required style.
3. employed in the plate-making method according to claim 2 " clothes major control position coordinates table ".
Priority Applications (1)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| CNA2007100099939A CN101273807A (en) | 2007-12-12 | 2007-12-12 | Method for producing clothing lattice type plate |
Applications Claiming Priority (1)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| CNA2007100099939A CN101273807A (en) | 2007-12-12 | 2007-12-12 | Method for producing clothing lattice type plate |
Publications (1)
| Publication Number | Publication Date |
|---|---|
| CN101273807A true CN101273807A (en) | 2008-10-01 |
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Family Applications (1)
| Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
|---|---|---|---|
| CNA2007100099939A Pending CN101273807A (en) | 2007-12-12 | 2007-12-12 | Method for producing clothing lattice type plate |
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| CN (1) | CN101273807A (en) |
Cited By (3)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN101485500A (en) * | 2009-01-19 | 2009-07-22 | 吴厚林 | Structure design method for suit-dress pattern |
| CN102578735A (en) * | 2012-02-23 | 2012-07-18 | 东华大学 | Clothing pattern making method |
| CN104770927A (en) * | 2014-01-14 | 2015-07-15 | 广州科拉迪尼服饰有限公司 | Coordinate size grading method |
-
2007
- 2007-12-12 CN CNA2007100099939A patent/CN101273807A/en active Pending
Cited By (5)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN101485500A (en) * | 2009-01-19 | 2009-07-22 | 吴厚林 | Structure design method for suit-dress pattern |
| CN101485500B (en) * | 2009-01-19 | 2013-12-25 | 吴厚林 | Structure design method for suit-dress pattern |
| CN102578735A (en) * | 2012-02-23 | 2012-07-18 | 东华大学 | Clothing pattern making method |
| CN102578735B (en) * | 2012-02-23 | 2014-08-13 | 东华大学 | Clothing pattern making method |
| CN104770927A (en) * | 2014-01-14 | 2015-07-15 | 广州科拉迪尼服饰有限公司 | Coordinate size grading method |
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