CN101053448B - Structure designing method for abnormal oblique structure thread clothing - Google Patents
Structure designing method for abnormal oblique structure thread clothing Download PDFInfo
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- CN101053448B CN101053448B CN2007100408364A CN200710040836A CN101053448B CN 101053448 B CN101053448 B CN 101053448B CN 2007100408364 A CN2007100408364 A CN 2007100408364A CN 200710040836 A CN200710040836 A CN 200710040836A CN 101053448 B CN101053448 B CN 101053448B
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Abstract
The present invention discloses a structure design method of unconventionality slant structural lines clothing which includes: (1) variation of separating line and dart in unconventionality slant structural lines clothing structure design; (2) variation of waist line; (3) the relationship between dart and waist line; (4) processing of chest dart amount and method for ensuring waistline; (5) Structure design method of unconventionality slant structural lines clothing; (6) the adaptation range of the structure design method. According to the present invention, the production of two-dimensional template for said clothing can be finished in once, and the method is very simple and east to study and understand.
Description
Technical field
The present invention relates to a kind of construction design method of abnormal oblique structure thread clothing, and some characteristics of this type of structural design.
Background technology
Along with the raising day by day of living standard, people's clothing life also becomes more and more rich and varied, also trends towards personalization for the requirement of clothes, and therefore novelty also has higher requirement to dress designing.Clothes fashion designs as one of three big key elements of dress designing, is an importance in the dress designing.It comprises outer shape-designing and two aspects of interior shape-designing.Outer shape-designing mainly is meant the profile outline design of clothes, and interior moulding is meant the style design of inner, comprises the design of structure line, provincial highway, neck type, bag type or the like.The outer moulding of clothes is main bodys of design, and interior shape-designing will meet the style and features of overall appearance, and inside and outside moulding should supplement and complement each other.
The structure line of clothes, provincial highway design are the main contents of interior shape-designing.The design of structure line and province has the clothes of moulding external form, is fit to buman body type and makes things convenient for machining characteristics, has great importance in the apparel construction design, and the apparel construction design promptly is the design of structure line and province in a sense.The apparel construction line can be Protean, but always on the basis of obeying human body, change.So the structure line from interior shape-designing and the design of province are started with clothes fashion is designed, also be a good approach of a clothes fashion design.
At random principle on the applied statistics in the apparel construction design, irregular governed material changes and change more than regular governed material.Some non-models that accurately meet human body are done permutation and combination, though moulding is ugly, function is unreasonable, may become newfangled design philosophy at anti-main flow, anti-rule today of confrontational ideological trend influence, the clothes of counter-function.Most of clothes of everyday general purpose, sample making is all regular complies with, and cuts apart as typical PRINCESS SEAM.And the relatively more novel clothes of structural design are rare in daily life, appear in the high fashion mostly.Tracing it to its cause, mainly is because the irregular variation of structure line can bring certain degree of difficulty for sample making, ready-made clothes production aspect, so do not fit into bulk production production.If can find out the plate-making method of these unconventional apparel construction lines, just can make it be applied to satisfy the personalized requirement of the numerous common people in the production so to clothes.
Summary of the invention
Technical problem to be solved by this invention provides a kind of construction design method of abnormal oblique structure thread clothing, has solved in the prior art problem how quantity of this class formation line, position, form design; How this type of offbeat form moulding is decomposed into the problem of paper pattern; This type of moulding can accurately be from qualitative analysis to quantitative making sheet problem.
The technical solution adopted for the present invention to solve the technical problems is: a kind of construction design method of abnormal oblique structure thread clothing is provided, comprises the following steps,
(1) basic pattern neckline is upwards put, that order is followed successively by is back, back, preceding, forward and backward, after, place loose measure at the latasuture place, vertically upward definite clothing is long;
(2) make front and back chest measurement, shoulder and armhole according to conventional method for platemaking;
(3) determine the position of oblique cut-off rule: on three place's armholes, get identical curved section; Cross at 3 and make three parallel lines L1, L3, L5 makes that they and horizontal line angle are 45 °, meet at A, C, E with horizontal waistline;
(4) definite position of economizing: get mid point B, the D of AC and CE, cross B, D and make oblique 45 ° of line segment L2, L4 respectively, the length of length along path for economizing;
(5) mistake A, B, C, D, 5 of E make vertical line L1 '～L5 ' of L1～L5, and promptly L1 '～L5 ' is also parallel in twos;
(6) in twos between the parallel lines, cross the mid point intercepting line segment a of AB, BC, CD, DE at L1 '～L5 ', b, c, d makes its length be respectively W/4;
(7) get a F, G, H on hipline, making line segment FG and GH sum is H; Obtain final model.
When described cut-off rule or provincial highway were oblique, the ready-made clothes waistline can change; The actual waistline of ready-made clothes is become oblique by horizontal direction, province's amount is big more, and gradient is big more, and province's amount is more little, and gradient is more little.
Under the identical situation of described waist size: the center line of province and horizontal line angle are big more, and province's amount is more little, and waistline and horizontal angle are more little; Center line and the horizontal line angle economized are more little, and province's amount is more little, and waistline and horizontal angle are big more.
The processing method that the chest province amount of described construction design method takes major part to transfer suitably increases cut-off rule and province, and chest province amount is decomposed; According to the ratio of chest measurement and waistline, the principle of utilization symmetry is determined waistline.
The sample making method of oblique structure thread is not to be adapted to all abnormal oblique structure thread clothings.When economizing center line and horizontal line angle
The time (W represents waistline, and B represents chest measurement), this kind plate-making method can not be used.
(annotate: the plane dress material coats when human body is complex-curved to be gone up, and can form unnecessary amount, needs dark pleat is sewed in its kneading, is province)
Beneficial effect
The present invention has summed up the structure design characteristic of abnormal oblique structure thread clothing, by setting up the corresponding structure design method, make this type of template produce once and finish, simplified the model generative process, realized of the accurate analysis of this type of template from qualitative to quantitative.
The present invention can be closely related with vast garment enterprise structural design and making sheet, has expanded conventional apparel construction design and making sheet technology, has enriched the thinking and the method for structural design, has good practicality and economic worth potentiality.
Description of drawings
45 ° of oblique structure thread clothing styles of Fig. 1 figure.
Fig. 2 structured design process schematic diagram.
Fig. 3 structural design result schematic diagram.
The final model schematic diagram of Fig. 4.
The flow chart of Fig. 5 structured design process.
The specific embodiment
Below in conjunction with specific embodiment, further set forth the present invention.Should be understood that these embodiment only to be used to the present invention is described and be not used in and limit the scope of the invention.Should be understood that in addition those skilled in the art can make various changes or modifications the present invention after the content of having read the present invention's instruction, these equivalent form of values fall within the application's appended claims institute restricted portion equally.
Embodiment 1
Below with 45 ° of oblique structure thread clothing clothing as the example (style figure such as Fig. 1), the preparation method of this type of model is described, concrete steps are as follows:
(1) basic pattern such as Fig. 2 are put, the order be followed successively by back, back, preceding, forward and backward, after.Place loose measure at the latasuture place, vertically go up and determine that clothing is long.
(2) make front and back chest measurement, shoulder and armhole according to conventional method for platemaking.
(3) determine the position of oblique cut-off rule: on three place's armholes, get identical curved section; Cross at 3 and make three parallel lines L1, L3, L5 makes that they and horizontal line angle are 45 °, meet at A, C, E with horizontal waistline.
(4) definite position of economizing: get mid point B, the D of AC and CE, cross B, D and make oblique 45 ° of line segment L2, L4 respectively, the length of length along path for economizing.
(5) mistake A, B, C, D, 5 of E make vertical line L1 '～L5 ' of L1～L5, and promptly L1 '～L5 ' is also parallel in twos.
(6) in twos between the parallel lines, cross the mid point intercepting line segment a of AB, BC, CD, DE at L1 '～L5 ', b, c, d makes its length be respectively W/4.
(7) get a F, G, H on hipline, making line segment FG and GH sum is H.
(8) final model as shown in Figure 3.
Claims (4)
1. the construction design method of an abnormal oblique structure thread clothing is characterized in that: comprises the following steps,
(1) basic pattern neckline is upwards put, that order is followed successively by is back, back, preceding, forward and backward, after, place loose measure at the latasuture place, vertically upward definite clothing is long;
(2) make front and back chest measurement, shoulder and armhole according to conventional method for platemaking;
(3) determine the position of oblique cut-off rule: on three place's armholes, get identical curved section; Cross at 3 and make three parallel lines L1, L3, L5 makes that they and horizontal line angle are 45 °, meet at A, C, E with horizontal waistline;
(4) definite position of economizing: get mid point B, the D of AC and CE, cross B, D and make oblique 45 ° of line segment L2, L4 respectively, the length of length along path for economizing; Make line segment L2, L4 be parallel to L1, L3, L5;
(5) mistake A, B, C, D, 5 of E make vertical line L1 '～L5 ' of L1～L5, and promptly L1 '～L5 ' is also parallel in twos;
(6) in twos between the parallel lines, cross the mid point intercepting line segment a of AB, BC, CD, DE at L1 '～L5 ', b, c, d makes its length be respectively W/4, and wherein W is a waistline, and promptly line segment a, b, c, d sum are W;
(7) get a F, G, H on hipline, making line segment FG and GH sum is H, and wherein H is a hip circumference; Obtain final model.
2. the construction design method of a kind of abnormal oblique structure thread clothing according to claim 1 is characterized in that: described cut-off rule or economize when oblique, and the ready-made clothes waistline can change; The actual waistline of ready-made clothes is become oblique by horizontal direction, province's amount is big more, and gradient is big more, and province's amount is more little, and gradient is more little.
3. the construction design method of a kind of abnormal oblique structure thread clothing according to claim 1 is characterized in that: under the identical situation of described waistline: the center line of province and horizontal line angle are big more, and province's amount is more little, and waistline and horizontal angle are more little; Center line and the horizontal line angle economized are more little, and province's amount is more little, and waistline and horizontal angle are big more.
4. the construction design method of a kind of abnormal oblique structure thread clothing according to claim 1 is characterized in that: the processing method that the chest province amount of described construction design method takes major part to transfer, suitably increase cut-off rule and province, and chest province amount is decomposed; According to the ratio of chest measurement and waistline, the principle of utilization symmetry is determined waistline.
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| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| CN2007100408364A CN101053448B (en) | 2007-05-18 | 2007-05-18 | Structure designing method for abnormal oblique structure thread clothing |
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| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| CN2007100408364A CN101053448B (en) | 2007-05-18 | 2007-05-18 | Structure designing method for abnormal oblique structure thread clothing |
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| CN101053448A CN101053448A (en) | 2007-10-17 |
| CN101053448B true CN101053448B (en) | 2011-02-09 |
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| CN2007100408364A Expired - Fee Related CN101053448B (en) | 2007-05-18 | 2007-05-18 | Structure designing method for abnormal oblique structure thread clothing |
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Cited By (1)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN102920080A (en) * | 2012-11-26 | 2013-02-13 | 李玉莉 | Tailor processing method of clothing material |
Citations (7)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| GB135771A (en) * | 1919-05-15 | 1919-12-04 | Henry Allen Cowell | Charts for Designing to Measure, Patterns of Coats, Blouses, Bodices and Garments of a like Nature. |
| US4205446A (en) * | 1978-06-08 | 1980-06-03 | Gibson Donald A | Dress pattern |
| WO1983004165A1 (en) * | 1982-05-28 | 1983-12-08 | Yuka Hori | Method of cutting out front of clothing |
| JP2001306652A (en) * | 2000-04-21 | 2001-11-02 | Kiiko Hayashi | Information processing managing method for drafting, designing, and construction of clothing |
| JP2005240268A (en) * | 2004-01-29 | 2005-09-08 | Masako Yamazaki | Fitting type prototype maker and method for drawing paper pattern of clothing |
| CN1762268A (en) * | 2004-10-20 | 2006-04-26 | 葛俊康 | Method for determining girth size of woman's fitted clothes with four patches or eight patches |
| CN1762261A (en) * | 2004-10-20 | 2006-04-26 | 葛俊康 | Method for determining basic chest dart size of women's clothes |
-
2007
- 2007-05-18 CN CN2007100408364A patent/CN101053448B/en not_active Expired - Fee Related
Patent Citations (7)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| GB135771A (en) * | 1919-05-15 | 1919-12-04 | Henry Allen Cowell | Charts for Designing to Measure, Patterns of Coats, Blouses, Bodices and Garments of a like Nature. |
| US4205446A (en) * | 1978-06-08 | 1980-06-03 | Gibson Donald A | Dress pattern |
| WO1983004165A1 (en) * | 1982-05-28 | 1983-12-08 | Yuka Hori | Method of cutting out front of clothing |
| JP2001306652A (en) * | 2000-04-21 | 2001-11-02 | Kiiko Hayashi | Information processing managing method for drafting, designing, and construction of clothing |
| JP2005240268A (en) * | 2004-01-29 | 2005-09-08 | Masako Yamazaki | Fitting type prototype maker and method for drawing paper pattern of clothing |
| CN1762268A (en) * | 2004-10-20 | 2006-04-26 | 葛俊康 | Method for determining girth size of woman's fitted clothes with four patches or eight patches |
| CN1762261A (en) * | 2004-10-20 | 2006-04-26 | 葛俊康 | Method for determining basic chest dart size of women's clothes |
Cited By (1)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN102920080A (en) * | 2012-11-26 | 2013-02-13 | 李玉莉 | Tailor processing method of clothing material |
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| CN101053448A (en) | 2007-10-17 |
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Effective date of registration: 20110714 Address after: 201620 Shanghai, Songjiang new town, North Road, No. 2999 people Co-patentee after: Zhang Zufang Patentee after: Donghua University Co-patentee after: Chen Jie Co-patentee after: Ding Minmin Address before: 201620 Shanghai, Songjiang new town, North Road, No. 2999 people Patentee before: Donghua University |
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