CA2168313A1 - Cylindrical gem setting - Google Patents

Abstract

An article of jewelry comprising a gemstone setting defining a bowl portion with sidewalls which form a circle, a reflective coating formed on an outer surface of said bowl portion and a gemstone assembly mounted in the bowl. The gemstone assembly comprises a fitting having prongs at one end holding a gemstone and a stem at the other end which is mounted in the bowl portion.

Description

2l 6a3i~

BAC~CGROUNP OF THK I~IQ~r 1. ~ield of Invention~
The pre~ent invention generally relates to a gem setting used for rings, pendant~ and other jewel~y or ~lternatively ~or the faceting of 8tone8 u~ed in jewelry and more specifically i8 directed toward~ a setting which is based on a spherical section which c~n be combined ~ith cylinder or conical 6hape~ to f orm a reflective bowl.
Most gems do not show any lu~ter i~ their natur~l form. Only when a gem i~ cu~ and poli~hed and its surface pro~ided with facets i~ a lu~ter and brilliancy ob~;ned. Thi~ is due to the fact that the facet~ reflect the incident light at the outer an~ inne~ surface~ of t~e gemstone. ~11 of the present prior art gem~tone cut~ an~
~ettings causl3 a ~ub6tantial lot3E; of inciden-t light with 1088 of the potential coloring or ~parkle of the cut gem.
These faceting cu~ which are pre~ently used actually lo~e ~0% or more of the light enter~ng the 6tone.

2. De~ription of the Prior Art.
The liteLature is replete with referenceR to ~ariouC type~ of ~ettings including rings which have mirrored surfaces and faceted stones which are held or mounted iA thoGe rings.
United States Patent No. 2,199,22~ ued April 30, 1940 i6 directed toward an article of jewelry using a plurality of concave petal ~ection6, the upper ~urface of each section ~eing ref lective. The6e ~ec~lon3 ar~ placed on either side of the vertical axi~ of the gem. Where the - ~l6~3~3 ~ection~ inter~ect, they are cut along radial plane~ and are soldered or joined together ~o that a cluRter of mlrror~ are arranged in circumferential ~e~uence around the gem to ~orm the effect o~ a flower having petals. The upper face o~ each ~pherical section i~ ~mooth ~nd poli~hed and con~titute~ in e~fect a cur~ed mirror. Thuu, light emanating from the gem will impinge on the contiguous faces of the surrolln~; ng petal~ to impart to the SeCtiOnB (petals) the color o~ the gem, which color i~
altered by the gold color of the gold metal.
United St~tee Patent No. 4~604,876 issued Augu~t 12, lg86 discl~fiee an imitation gem confi~ting of a ~emi fihell of tr~p~ent pla~tic material with concave inner and convex outer ~urfaces. Light reflecting and light refracting facets are formed on both its inner co~cave and outer co~vex surface~. Th~ inner generally curved ~urface and outer generally curved ~urfaae are provided with a m~ltitude of ~acet~. One or both of the inner curved surface~ ~ay be provided with a semi-tr~n~r~rent mlrror-like metal coating. ~he facet~ on the inner and ~uter surface~ provide for light reflection~ 80 that the light iQ separated into spectral colora and reflected in beams by ths mirror-like metal coating~. Another United State~
Patent No~ 3,665,729 is~ued Mny ~0, 1972 disclo~e~ a diamond having a the top fa~e aut a~ a convex spherical face to ~erve a~ a magnifying len~ and a ~ r spherical segment surface cut on ita bottQ~ 5urface, in order to gather t~e light coming fr~m a light ~ource in a facet.
~he gem can be then mounted on a ~pherical ~eat in a ` ~ 2168313 mounting material into which an ~nn~ plate projects holding the gem in place. The bottom ~ace i~ covered by a vaporized mlrror-reflecting coating on the surface to the bottom portion or by a highly poli~hed surface on the ~eat of the mounting material in whi~h the gem i~ set to provide a mirrored reflecting ~urface.
United State~ Patent No. 1,578,gQ7 iasued March 30, 1926 ~hows a ring h~vi~g an intaglio seat and a ledge which provides a bearing for a convex m1rrored ~pherical 10 optical glass meni~cu~. United Staten P~tent No.
1,941,782 is~ued January 2, 1934 dl~clo~ea a refl~ctive ~ase jewel mounting. The b~qe of the mounting is a ridged concave structure wit~ a central aperture into which the gem~tone protrudes.
An ass~mhly for holding a gem~tone in place i~
disclo~ed in United State~ Patent No. 1, 188, 841 i~ued June 27, 1916. Thl~ patent shows a ring holding an imitation pearl of hollow construction having an ~r~ni n~
therein to receive the ~plit ends of a pin having it~
shank pa~sing through the opening in a ring mounting and te ;n~ting in the split portion. Another mounting po~t asse~bly constructed with a bearing plate having an extending threaded post which is po~itioned inside the jewelry ornament iB ~h~wn in United States Patent No.
1~713~285 i~ued May 14, 1929.

There are a number of disadvantage~ a~ociated with the ring~, pendant8 and jewelry in current u~e. One disadv~tage i that when gemRtone~ are used in present jew~lry the total color of the gemstone i~ not brought out ` 2168313 1:o ~iull advantage h~cA~ e of the limited ref lective ~;urface6 of the mounting and the ba~se metdl of the mounting euch a~ gold or ~ilver bloc7cing light ~rom the gem~tone.
Another di~advantage ia that stone~ whiah have color h:~nrli ng~ internal flaws or color variance~ within the ~3tone are readily ~een ~30 that only ~one~ of uniform color and clarity can ~e used.

SW~RY OF ~IIE ~NV~N~I!ION
The pre~ent invention i~ directed toward~ an arti~le a~ jewelry compri~ing a gem~tone mounting de~ining a ~owl portion with circular ~idewall~ when a plane is intersected across the axis of the bowl. The gemstone a~sembly is mounted in the bowl and co~pri~es a fitting which ha~ one end holding a g m~tone and a ~tem at the other end which is inserted throu~h a throughgoing bore cut thr~ugh the bo~l portion.
~ t i~ an object of the in~ention to ~onm a jewelry setting in which a centrally poaitioned gemstone will reflect ligh~ from the walls of the bowl with the optical eE$ect that the wall~ will be colored in accordance with the gem~tone.
It i~ another object of the inven~ion to form a j ewelry setting in which 21 gemstone or combination of stone~ are ~eated in the bowl to reflect light from the wall~ of the bowl ~ith the optical ef fect that th-3 wall~
will give a halo ~ffect with the halo being colored b~,r the gemstone to er.hAn~-e the cc~lor and brilliance of the - 2i6a3l3 g~mstone .
It i~ an addition~l object of the in~ention to form a jewelry set~ing with a series of intersecting arc6 of a ~phere to pro~ide a petal, floral, or other multiple image effect to the j ewelry .
It i~ an yet addit~onal object of the in~en~ion to provide a cut ~or a gem by which a very ~rilliant enlarged full reflection i8 obtained for the gem~
In the accompanying drawings, there i~ ~hown an lllu~trative embodiment ~f the invention from which the~e and o~her of objective~, novel feature~ and ad~antages will be readily apparent.

-B~IEF D~S~rPTlON OF T~IE l~RAWINGS
Figure 1 showa a perspectlve view of a ring incorpo~ating the inventive jewelry setting;
~ igure Z shows an exploded per~pective view of a ring of Figure 1 with the gem ~lttlng removed and an alternative gem fitting;
Figure 3 i~ a cross sectional ~chematic taken along a cross section o~ an enlarged bowl of the jewelry ~etting in Figure 1 showing light reflection of parallel light ray~ ~triking the bcwl;
Figure 4 i~ a cro s sectional fichematic taken along a cross ~ection of the enlarged bowl in Figure 3 showing light reflection of angled light ray~ striking the bowl;
Figure 5- is a cross sectlonal schematic taken along a cross ~ection of the enlarged bowl ln Figure 3 with a gemstone seated in the bowl ~ho~ing light reflection of parallel ray~ o~ liqht striking the gem~tone and bowl;

Figure 6 i8 a cylindrical 3ection u~ed in construction of the setting of the invention;
Figure 7 i5 a conic~l ~ection u~ed in con~truction of the setting o~ the in~ention;
Figure 8 is a ~pherical setting;
~igure 9 i8 a ~etting for square or cu~hion cut atones formed by the intersection of two cylindrical ~ection~ shown in Flgure 6;
Figure 10 is a setting ~or marqui~e cut fftones onmed by the intersection of two co~icAl ~ection~ ~hown in Flgure 7;
Figure 11 i~ a ~etting for oval cut and elongated stones formed by the inter~ection of the cylindrical secti~n shown in Figure 6 with two ~emi-Gpherical section~ a~ ~hown in Figure 8;
Figure 12 i~ an alternative embodiment o~ a jewelry setting with a portion partially r~moved ~howing a gemstone i~ mounted a ~owl of the jewelry aetting with the table of the gemstone po~itioned outward;
Figure 13 is a partial cros6 ~ection of another gem6tone mounting embo~i -nt comprising a wire mounted in a ~tone groove u~ed with the inventive jewelry ~etting;
Figure 14 is a partial cro~ ection of yet another gemstone mounting emb~diment compri~ing a notched wire mounted on the crown of a stone u~ed with the inventi~e jewelry ~etting;
Figure 15 i~ a top plan view of the gem~tone shown in Figures 13 and 14 with the wire mounting harne~
shcwn in phantom;
Figure 16 i~ a top plan Yiew of a female fitting u~ed on the jewelry setti~g to hold a ~pecial ~ale ~tem fitting;
Figure 17 is a perapective view of the ~nale ~itting ~tem u~ed in the fem~le m~er of Figure 16; and Figure 18 is a top plan view of the male fitting gtem shown in Figure 17.

DEq~r ~ DESC~IPT~ON OF T~3: I.. v~ ON

The preferred embodiment and best mode of the in~e~tion i8 shown in Figures 1 through 5 a~d 8. The jewelry ~etting 10 i8 ~hown in the ~orm of a ring 11 made of gold, silver, platinum or alloys of the same although it could be in the form of a pendant or other form of jewelry. The ~etting 10 is formed with a ~ircular o~
;pherical bowl seotion 14 in which a ~tone 16 ic mounted.
The circular section b~wl is preferably constructed a6 a section of a sphere; however, other circular ba:~ed com~inations 6u~h as those shown in Figures 6 through 11 can be used. The ~owl 14 or recess i~ pre~erably coated with a layer of rho~ium or chromium in a thickne~s ranging about 1 to 10 micron~. The term stone ~ u~ed in thi~
application should be construed to mean a gem~tone, pearl or semip~eciou~ or precious gem material. The ctone can be ca~achon, faceted, polished, baroque cut, in the form of a bead or a natural configuration or any other cut or f;n;~:h, The stone 16 can be mounted in a st~nA~d fitting 18 with a head lg formed with prong~ and a threaded stem 20 ex~ending from the head. The ~tem 20 i~
placed in a bore 24 cut though the centerpoint of bowl 14 and a nut or cap ~er ~6 is threaded on the st~m holding the ~tone firmly centered in position within t~e bowl 14.
The di~tal end of the ~tem 20 can be cut off so that it doe~ not extend pa~t the di~tal surface of the nut or end fa~tener ~ r 26 and the en~ fa~tener member 26 can fit into a re~ess (not shown) cut adjacent the ~ore 24 so that the end fastener member 26 fit~ into the recess and easily ~ 216~313 ride~ ~n the finger. Thu~, the end fastener ~'~r 26 does not provide a protrudiny surface fr~m the inner ~urface of the ring. If de~ired the stone 16 can be predrilled with a blind bore 25 and the stem 20 in~erted into the bl~nd bore 25 and held in place with a clear adhesive or threaded into the stone it~el~. Whlle the p~esent invention is de~cri~ed a~ being used with a rlng it i~ understood that a pen~ant or other jewelry constructlon is envicioned.
Another stem e '-o~i ~nt is ~hown in ~igure~ 16-18. I~ thi~ em~o~i -nt the ~tem 20 i~ provided with lo~king flanges or key~ 2~. These locking flangea are inserted into keyway channels 42 of a female lock member 4 0 which can be fastened to the setting beneath the ~owl 14. This aligns the stem ~ody 21 with the bore 41 allowing the ~tem to ~lide down withln bore 41 of the lock member 40. The botto~ sur~ace of annular groove 44 forms a ~top for the flanges 22 a~ it i~ engaged ~y flange-~ 22 stopping the entry progre66 of the stem 2 0 . The ~te~ and flange~ are rotated 90 in a firct direction until a second set of keyway chAnnel~ 46 which comr-n;~Ate with groove 44 are aligned with the flange~ Z2. ~he ~tem and f lang~s are ~urther inserted or dropped along keyway chAr~n~ls 46 to a ~econd annula:r grc~ve 48 located beneath the fir~t annular groove 44 and the flanges 22 are then rotated in the opposite direction lock; n~ the stem in place. ~hi~ pa~iti~ning with re~er~e rotation prevents the ~tem fr~m being diamantled or unscrewing during ~ibrati~n~.

. .

1~ .
An alternative embo~; ~nt stone mounting i8 shown in Figures 13-15~ In this fitting a wlre 30 of a wire assembly iB ~ounted in a groove 34 cut in ~tone 36 and the harness 3~ is tightened, heated and soldered in place on the ~etting 10 to hold the gem~tone 16 ln a fixed poBition in bowl 14. If desired, the wire 30 ~an be formed with a mating portion 31 allowing the wire to be securely seated in groove 34. ~ the wire harne~s 32 cools it further tightenR, 5tabilizing the stone in po~ition in the ~owl~ In a variation of thi~ embodiment the wire 30 i~ notched at 38 with the notch ~it~ing over the crown 37 of the ~tone 36. The harne~ 32 i8 heated, ~oldered and allo~ed to cool keeping the gem~tone 36 tightly held in place. The harne~ 32 in effect forms a noose design for holding the stone.
In the ~chematic shown ~y Figure 3, the letter~
EGF repre~ent the basic curvature of the se~tion of the conca~e portion of the inventive pieces of jewelry and/~r cutting ~hape~ for preciou~, semi-precious, s~nthetic stones or other material~ u~ed in the jewelry business.
AGB i~ the curvature of a circle (or ~phere) which i8 actually one half of a circle with it~ center at 0. C x D
i8 the arc of the circle at 0 which has half the diameter of the arc AGB. X i~ the focal point for parallel ray~ of light 50 which hlt the smaller arc EGF, coming in at a 90 angle to line AB. The solid lines 50 thus represe~t the light raya hitting the arc EGF. The broken linec 52 show the path of the light rays 50 when ~e~lected from the mirrored ~urf ace of the arc . The light rays then pa88 through the focal point at X, fanning out uniformly in direction~ that form a uniformly exp~n~; n~ cone of light.
Figure 4 i~ a schematic diagram ~ ~n~trating the shifting of the focal point to x-l or x-2 dependihg on the angle of incoming light rays 50. ~two different incoming ~gles ~e illustrated ) - one by the numeral ~0 and the other by the numeral 62. The ray~ come in at 45 from one side, and exi~ in cone ~orm frQm the other. Thus it can ~e seen that from virtually all angles a full reflection 52 result6.
~ igure 5 show~ a similar schematic diagram as in the prior Figure~ 3 and 4 except that a gemfitone 17 i6 mounted in bowl 14. The gem~tone 17 repre~ent~ a ~ mi-~pherical cabachon ~tone. The ~olid linea 70 repre~ent ligh~ (in full 6pectrum) coming in perpendicular to arc EGF and hitting the cabachon gem~tone 17. The broken line~ 72 repre~ent that part ~f the ~pect~um being reflected and/or deflected from the stone 17 to the bowl and back to the viewerR eyes. Not ~hown a~e the paths of tho~e ray~ which strike the ~owl first then deflect off the stone 17, thus gi~ing the fullest reflection from all frontal angle~.
Figuree 6 -11 show six example~ of ahapes that can be used in the inventive jewelry setting or in the ~haping of the ~otto~6 of transparent gemstone~ or any other decorati~e transparent materials. Figu~e 6 i~ a cylindrical section BO of a tube . ~he projection or extension of the curvature of arc XYZ would be a perf ect full circle. Figure 7 il3 a section 82 of a full cone.

2 i 6~3 1 3 The projection of XYZ d~wn to 0 or the point 83 o~ the cone would be a ~eries of ~i i ni shing in ~ize full circles ~f a pl~ne were run perpendicular to the center axis of the cone. Figure 8 is a perfe~tly ~pherical cection ~etting 84 as used i~ the example~ ~hown in Figures 1 -5 to hold a round or round cut ~tone. Figure 9 ~hows a c~ ~;nAtion setting formed by intersecting ~ections 80 and 86 of two cylinders to hold a square or cushion cut ~tone.
Figure 10 ~hows section~ of two cones 82 and 88 placed together to form a marqui~e shape ~etting to hold a marquis cut stone. Figure 11 is a combination settlng of a cylinder section 80 with tw~ end ~phere sections 92 and 94 to form an oval ~hape to ~ld an oval stonè. Figures 9-1~ alffo repre~ent gemstones which can ~e shaped and facetted to form a high light refraction ~nd brilliance~
Thus, it can be seen that all of the i~ventive de~ign~ are basically segments of perfect ~pheres, coneR
or cyl;n~s. Random or irregular concaYe or flat ~urfaces ~ill not give the ~ni f;~ation and/or geometric perfection resulting ~rom ~urface a~ ~hown in the aforenoted figure~.
A~ previously noted the ~urface of the mounting ~urface is coated wlth a non-corroding entire ~isible spectrum reflecting ~urface such a3 rhodium or chromium.
T~i~ coating 15 serves two purposes. First, a true color image result~. Gold ~urface~ will not provide a true ~olor image. The ~econd purpose is that corrosion prone metals, cUch as silver or low carat gold are protected by the coating. If the coated ~urface~ are engra~ed, embossed or ~eqme~ted followi~g the noted m~thematical curves one can create variou~ opti~al illusion8 such a~
halo~, and/or mimicry of facets on the gem~tone~.
Gemstones or other decorative mater~als can be randamly or uniformly mounted in the~e concave pieces, always giving full reflectivity and~or de6ired c- ~;n~ions of color~
and/or shape~.
~ hen these same shape~ which are u~ed for se~ting~ are used in the cutting of tran~p~rent gem~tones or ~ynthetic or imitation6 of same the result i~ fully reflec~ive stones. Gem~tones cut in this manner would not ha~e ~indows and when used in the reflective bowl 14 would ~how a more vibrant uniform color allowing the u~e of h~ or lesser quality gem~tones. The cutting of the tops and bOttomfi of the gemstones create~ a sparkling effect which optically int~rfere~ with luster.
Another embodiment of the inven~ion i8 ~hown in Figure 12. In this setting emb~; ^nt the stone 16 i~
dropped into an aperture 124 cut in the base o~ the bowl 14 ~o that the face 17 of the ~tone 16 project~ outward.
The stone 16 can be mounted in the inner rim 19 of the bowl in the 8ame manner a~ shown in Figures 13 and 14 with ~he rim being notched to receive the crown a~ xhown in Figure 14 or the stone being channeled ~o receive the rim as shown in Figure 13~ Conversely the ~tone could be held in place with the wire harness ~hown in Figure I5. This embodiment can be worn ~o that either portion of t~e gems~tone i8 pr~3sented, thus in effect providing rsversible jewelry fr~m a convex for~at with gem~tone face to a concave format ~ith reflective bowl.
In the foregoing descriptionr the invention has been described with reference to a particular preferred embodiment, although lt is to be understood that speci~ic detail~ shown are merely illustrative, ana the invention may be carried out in other ways without departing from the true ~pirit and ~cope o the following claims:

Claims (32)

1. Claim 1. An article of jewelry comprising a gemstone setting defining a recessed portion having at least a partial circular configuration in cross section with a polished sidewall forming a reflective mirrored surface, the circular recessed portion defines a bore which can hold a gemstone assembly mounted in said bore, said gemstone assembly including a gemstone which is spaced from said polished sidewall, said gemstone having a light reflective surface which is smaller than the reflective surface of the recessed polished portion.
2. Claim 2. An article of jewelry as claimed in Claim 1 wherein said gemstone assembly comprises a fitting having prong means at one end holding a gemstone mounted therein and a stem at the other end.
3. Claim 3. An article of jewelry as claimed in Claim 1 wherein said article of jewelry is a ring.
4. Claim 4. An article of jewelry as claimed in Claim 1 wherein said article of jewelry is a pendant.
5. Claim 5. An article of jewelry as claimed in Claim 1 wherein said recessed portion is a section of a sphere.
6. Claim 6. An article of jewelry as claimed in Claim 1 wherein said recessed portion is a truncated cone.
7. Claim 7. An article of jewelry as claimed in Claim 1 wherein said recessed portion is defined by two intersecting truncated cones,
8. Claim 8. An article of jewelry as claimed in Claim 1 wherein said recessed portion is a partial cylinder.
9. Claim 9. An article of jewelry as claimed in Claim 1 wherein said recessed portion is defined by a partial cylinder intersected at each end by a partial sphere.
10. Claim 10. An article of jewelry as claimed in Claim 1 wherein said recessed portion is defined by two intersecting cylinder sections.
11. claim 11. An article of jewelry as claimed in Claim 1 wherein said gemstone assembly is a threaded stem, a gemstone defining a blind bore holding said threaded stem therein and nut means mounted on said threaded stem.
12. Claim 12. An article of jewelry as Claimed in Claim 11 wherein said gemstone assembly threaded stem is loosely mounted in recessed portion so that said gemstone moves in said recess portion.
13. Claim 13. An article of jewelry as claimed in Claim 1 wherein said gemstone assembly is a gemstone and a wire means which is looped around said gemstone, said wire means being secured to said gemstone setting.
14. Claim 14. An article of jewelry as claimed in Claim 1 wherein said gemstone assembly is a gemstone which is channeled and wire means which is looped around said channel to hole said gemstone in a fixed relationship in said recessed portion.
15. Claim 15. An article of jewelry as claimed in Claim 1 wherein said gemstone assembly is a flanged shaft mounted in locking housing, said locking housing defining a bore with corresponding mating keyway cutouts adapted to receive the flanges of said flanged shaft, said flanged shaft when rotated in opposite directions sequentially engaging lower cutout portions which allow said shaft to be mounted deeper in said bore.
16. Claim 16. An article of jewelry as claimed in Claim 1 wherein said gemstone assembly comprises a female locking housing with a central bore and key receiving means defined adjacent said central bore to receive a male shaft with key means, and channel means formed within said female locking housing which allows said key means to be rotated therein.
17. Claim 17. An article of jewelry comprising a gemstone setting defining a bowl portion with sidewalls which form the arc of a circle when a plane intersects along the central axis of the bowl portion, a reflective coating formed on a surface of said bowl portion and a gemstone assembly mounted in said bowl, said gemstone assembly comprising a fitting provided with means for holding a gemstone, a stem extending from said holding means and means to secure said gemstone assembly to said bowl portion.
18. Claim 18. An article of jewelry as claimed in Claim 17 wherein said bowl portion has the configuration of a partial sphere.
19. Claim 19. An article of jewelry as claimed in Claim 17 wherein said bowl portion has the configuration of a truncated cone.
20. Claim 20. An article of jewelry as claimed in Claim 17 wherein said bowl portion is defined by two intersecting truncated cones.
21. Claim 21. An article of jewelry as claimed in Claim 17 wherein said bowl portion has the configuration of a partial cylinder.
22. Claim 22. An article of jewelry as claimed in Claim 17 wherein said bowl portion is defined by a partial cylinder intersected at each end by a partial sphere.
23. Claim 23. An article of jewelry as claimed in Claim 17 wherein said bowl portion is defined by two intersecting partial cylinders.
24. Claim 24. An article of jewelry as claimed in Claim 17 wherein said reflective coating is rhodium.
25. Claim 25. An article of jewelry as claimed in Claim 17 wherein said reflective coating is chromium.
26. Claim 26. An article of jewelry as claimed in Claim 17 wherein said fitting means is a prong head with a plurality of prongs and a stem extending from said prong head.
27. Claim 27. An article of jewelry comprising a gemstone setting defining a bowl portion with sidewalls which form the arc of a circle when a central axis of the bowl portion is intersected by a plane, said bowl portion defining a central bore, a reflective coating formed on a concave surface of said bowl portion and a gemstone assembly removably mounted in said bowl, said gemstone assembly comprising a fitting having prong means holding a gemstone mounted therein, a stem extending from said prong means and nut means mounted on said stem to hold said gemstone assembly in fixed position to said article of jewelry, said gemstone being cut with a circular bottom and top portion and faceted along said bottom and top portion.
28. Claim 28. An article of jewelry as claimed in Claim 27 where said article of jewelry is a ring .
29. Claim 29. An article of jewelry as claimed in Claim 28 wherein said ring defines a recess around said bore distal from said bowl to receive a nut holding means.
30. Claim 30. An article of jewelry comprising a gemstone setting defining a bowl portion with sidewalls which form the arc of a circle when a central axis of the bowl portion is intersected by a plane, said bowl portion defining a central bore, a reflective coating formed on a concave surface of said bowl portion and a gemstone mounted in said central bore so that the table of the gemstone is viewed from the other side of the base of the recessed portion.
31. Claim 31. A method of making an article of jewelry comprising the steps of;
    a) forming a gemstone into a substantially spherical shape;
    
    b) faceting the gemstone with a plurality of facets cut along a arc of said spherical shape so that the top and bottom portion of the gemstone are faceted; and c) mounting said faceted gemstone into a circular reflective basin formed in said article of jewelry.
32. Claim 32. A method of making a faceted gemstone comprising the steps of;
    a) cutting a gemstone into a shape having a circular cross section;
    b) faceting the gemstone with a plurality of facets cut along a arc of said circular shape so that at least the top and bottom portion of the gemstone are faceted.
    Claim 33. A method of making a faceted gemstone as claimed in claim 32 wherein said gemstone is spherical.
    Claim 34. A method of making a faceted gemstone as claimed in claim 32 wherein said gemstone is conical.
    Claim 35. A method of making a faceted gemstone as claimed in claim 32 wherein said gemstone is cylindrical.