AU2704199A - Hair conditioning compositions comprising hydrophilically substituted cationi c surfactants and high melting point compounds - Google Patents

Description

WO 99/24014 PCT/US97/20736 HAIR CONDITIONING COMPOSITIONS COMPRISING HYDROPHILICALLY SUBSTITUTED CATIONIC SURFACTANTS 5 AND HIGH MELTING POINT COMPOUNDS 10 TECHNICAL FIELD The present invention relates to a hair conditioning composition comprising high levels of conditioning agents. More specifically, the present invention relates to a hair conditioning composition comprising hydrophilically 15 substituted cationic surfactants and high melting point compounds. BACKGROUND Human hair becomes soiled due to its contact with the surrounding environment and from sebum secreted from the scalp. The soiling of the hair 20 causes it to have a dirty or greasy feel, and an unattractive appearance. The soiling of the hair necessitates shampooing with regularity. Shampooing cleans the hair by removing excess soil and sebum. However, shampooing can leave the hair in a wet, tangled, and generally unmanageable state. Once the hair dries, it is often left in a dry, rough, 25 lusterless, or frizzy condition due to removal of the hair's natural oils and other natural conditioning and moisturizing components. The hair can further be left with increased levels of static upon drying which can interfere with combing and result in a condition commonly referred to as "fly-away hair", or contribute to an undesirable phenomena of "split ends", particularly for long hair. 30 A variety of approaches have been developed to alleviate these after shampoo problems. These approaches range from post-shampoo application of hair conditioner such as leave-on and rinse-off products, to hair conditioning shampoos which attempt to both cleanse and condition the hair from a single product. Although some consumers prefer the ease and convenience of a 35 shampoo which includes conditioners, a substantial proportion of consumers WO 99/24014 PCT/US97/20736 2 prefer the more conventional conditioner formulations which are applied to the hair as a separate step from shampooing, usually subsequent to shampooing. Conditioning formulation can be in the form of rinse-off products or leave-on products, and can be in the form of an emulsion, cream, gel, spray, or mousse. 5 Such consumers who prefer the conventional conditioner formulations value the relatively higher conditioning effect, or convenience of changing the amount of conditioning depending on the condition of hair or portion of hair. Further, consumers prefer conditioners which provide smoothness and softness to the hair and wet combing benefits. 10 A common method of providing conditioning benefit to the hair is through the use of hair conditioning agents such as cationic surfactants and polymers, silicone conditioning agents, and hydrocarbon and other organic oils, and solid aliphatics such as fatty alcohols. Cationic surfactants and polymers, as well as oils and aliphatics, are known to enhance hair shine and provide moistness, 15 softness, wet and dry combing benefits and static control to the hair; however, they are also known to provide stickiness or greasy or waxy feeling. In addition, it has been difficult to increase the levels of certain desirable hair conditioning agents, particularly solid aliphatics and high melting point compounds such as fatty alcohols, in hair conditioning compositions. This is due 20 to the resulting increase in the viscosity of the hair conditioning composition as the level of the conditioning agent present in the composition is increased. If the viscosity of the composition is too greatly increased, the composition becomes difficult to process and package, and may further be aesthetically undesirable to consumers. 25 There remains a desire to provide hair conditioning compositions with increased levels of conditioning agents that can provide improved conditioning benefits such as smoothness, softness, and ease of combing, both when the hair is wet and also after it has dried, but which are not unacceptably viscous. None of the existing art provides all of the advantages and benefits of the present 30 invention. SUMMARY The present invention is directed to a hair conditioning composition comprising: (a) a hydrophilically substituted cationic surfactant; (b) from about 5% to about 20% by weight of a high melting point compound; (c) an additional 35 cationic surfactant; and (d) water; wherein P3/o < 4000, where a is the weight WO 99/24014 PCT/US97/20736 3 percent of the high melting point compound; P3 is viscosity (cps) of the composition at a constant shear rate 2sec-1 after 1 minute, P3 being less than about 35000 cps. These and other features, aspects, and advantages of the present 5 invention will become evident to those skilled in the art from a reading of the present disclosure. DETAILED DESCRIPTION While the specification concludes with claims particularly pointing out and 10 distinctly claiming the invention, it is believed that the present invention will be better understood from the following description. All percentages are by weight of total composition unless otherwise indicated. All ratios are weight ratios unless otherwise indicated. All percentages, ratios, and levels of ingredients referred to herein are based on the 15 actual amount of the ingredient, and do not include solvents, fillers, or other materials with which the ingredient may be combined as commercially available products, unless otherwise indicated. As used herein, "comprising" means that other steps and other ingredients which do not affect the end result can be added. This term 20 encompasses the terms "consisting of" and "consisting essentially of'. All cited references are incorporated herein by reference in their entireties. Citation of any reference is not an admission regarding any determination as to its availability as prior art to the claimed invention. HYDROPHILICALLY SUBSTITUTED CATIONIC SURFACTANT 25 The hair conditioning compositions of the present invention comprise hydrophilically substituted cationic surfactants in which at least one of the substituents contain one or more aromatic, ether, ester, amido, or amino moieties present as substituents or as linkages in the radical chain, wherein at least one of the radicals contains one or more hydrophilic moieties selected from alkoxy 30 (preferably C 1 - C3 alkoxy), polyoxyalkylene (preferably C 1 - C 3 polyoxyalkylene), alkylamido, hydroxyalkyl, alkylester, and combinations thereof. Without being bound by theory, it is believed that the use of such hydrophilically substituted cationic surfactants permits the addition of increased levels of the high melting point conditioning agents herein, which is desirable 35 because higher levels of such conditioning agents generally provide improved WO 99/24014 PCT/US97/20736 4 conditioning benefits to the hair. It is further believed that the interaction between the hydrophilically substituted cationic surfactants and the high melting point conditioning agents herein may be described as follows. Because these conditioning agents are solid aliphatics that tend to increase the viscosity of the 5 composition to an undesirably high level if added in high quantities, it is necessary to reduce the viscosity of the composition so as to compensate for the viscosity increase that tends to result from the heightened levels of the conditioning agents in the compositions of the present invention. The hydrophilically substituted cationic surfactant is believed to reduce the viscosity o10 of the compositions herein, thus providing viscosity reduction not seen with other hydrogenated or partially hydrogenated cationic surfactants. It is such viscosity reduction that allows the addition of increased levels of high melting point conditioning agent to the present compositions. It is further believed that the following rheological property describes the 15 compositions of the present invention, where ac is the weight percent of high melting point conditioning compound present in the composition; and P3 is the viscosity (cps) of the composition at a constant shear rate 2sec-1 after 1 minute: P/c < 4000 Preferably, cx is between about 5% and about 20% by weight of the 20 composition. Preferably, P3 is less than about 35000 cps, more preferably less than about 32000 cps. And, in preferred compositions P/a is less than 3000, still more preferably less than 2500. Preferably, the hydrophilically substituted cationic conditioning surfactant contains from 2 to about 10 nonionic hydrophile moieties located within the 25 above stated ranges. Preferred hydrophilically substituted cationic surfactants include those of the formulas (I) through (VII) below: 1

CH

3

(CH

2 )n-CH2-- (CH 2

CH

2 0)xH X

(CH

2

CH

2 0)yH (I) wherein n is from 8 to about 28, x+y is from 2 to about 40, Z 1 is a short chain 30 alkyl, preferably a C 1 - C3 alkyl, more preferably methyl, or - (CH2CH20)zH wherein x+y+z is up to 60, and X is a salt forming anion as defined above; WO 99/24014 PCT/US97/20736 5 6 8 R R 5 1, 1 9

R-N-(CH

2 )m-N--R 2 (II) 17 110 R R wherein m is 1 to 5, one or more of R 5 , R 6 , and R 7 are independently an C 1 C30 alkyl, the remainder are - CH 2

CH

2 OH, one or two of R 8 , R 9 , and R 10 are independently an C 1 - C30 alkyl, and remainder are - CH 2

CH

2 OH, and X is a 5 salt forming anion as mentioned above; 2 11 ?12

R-CNH-(CH

2 )p-N-(CH 2 )q-NHCR X (III) Z z 2 O Z O I11 ][ 12 R- -O--(CH2)p- N-(CH 2 )q-O- -R 2 13 Z (IV) 10 wherein independently for formulae (11l) and (IV), Z 2 is an alkyl, preferably a C 1 C3 alkyl, more preferably methyl, and Z 3 is a short chain hydroxyalkyl, preferably hydroxymethyl or hydroxyethyl, p and q independently are integers from 2 to 4, inclusive, preferably from 2 to 3, inclusive, more preferably 2, R 11 and R 12 15 independently, are substituted or unsubstituted hydrocarbyls, preferably C12 C20 alkyl or alkenyl, and X is a salt forming anion as defined above; 4 13 R-N (CH 2 HO)aH x Z

CH

3 wherein R 13 is a hydrocarbyl, preferably a C1 - C3 alkyl, more preferably methyl, 20 Z 4 and Z 5 are, independently, short chain hydrocarbyls, preferably C2 - C4 alkyl or alkenyl, more preferably ethyl, a is from 2 to about 40, preferably from about 7 to about 30, and X is a salt forming anion as defined above; WO 99/24014 PCT/US97/20736 6 14 R I + Z- N-CH 2

CHCH

2 --- A X (VI) 115 1 R OH wherein R 14 and R 15 , independently, are C 1 - C3 alkyl, preferably methyl, Z 6 is a C12 - C22 hydrocarbyl, alkyl carboxy or alkylamido, and A is a protein, preferably a collagen, keratin, milk protein, silk, soy protein, wheat protein, or 5 hydrolyzed forms thereof; and X is a salt forming anion as defined above; 16 O R 11 1 +

HOCH

2 --- (CHOH) 4

-CNH(CH

2 )b-N-CH 2 CH20H X (VII) 117 R wherein b is 2 or 3, R 16 and R 17 , independently are C 1 - C3 hydrocarbyls 10 preferably methyl, and X is a salt forming anion as defined above. Nonlimiting examples of hydrophilically substituted cationic surfactants useful in the present invention include the materials having the following CTFA designations: quaternium-16, quaternium-26, quaternium-27, quaternium-30, quaternium-33, quaternium-43, quaternium-52, quaternium-53, quaternium-56, quaternium-60, 15 quaternium-61, quaternium-62, quaternium-70, quaternium-71, quaternium-72, quaternium-75, quaternium-76 hydrolyzed collagen, quaternium-77, quaternium 78, quaternium-79 hydrolyzed collagen, quaternium-79 hydrolyzed keratin, quaternium-79 hydrolyzed milk protein, quaternium-79 hydrolyzed silk, quaternium-79 hydrolyzed soy protein, and quaternium-79 hydrolyzed wheat 20 protein, quaternium-80, quaternium-81, quaternium-82, quaternium-83, quaternium-84, and mixtures thereof. Highly preferred hydrophilically substituted cationic surfactants include dialkylamido ethyl hydroxyethylmonium salt, dialkylamido ethyl dimonium salt, dialkoyl ethyl hydroxyethylmonium salt, dialkoyl ethyldimonium salt, and mixtures 25 thereof, for example as commercially available under the following tradenames: VARISOFT 110, VARIQUAT K1215 and 638 from Witco Chemical; MACKPRO KLP, MACKPRO WLW, MACKPRO MLP, MACKPRO NSP, MACKPRO NLW, MACKPRO WWP, MACKPRO NLP, MACKPRO SLP from Mcintyre; ETHOQUAD 18/25, ETHOQUAD O/12PG, ETHOQUAD C/25, ETHOQUAD S/25, WO 99/24014 PCT/US97/20736 7 and ETHODUOQUAD from Akzo; DEHYQUAT SP from Henkel; and ATLAS G265 from ICI Americas; with VARISOFT 110 being more preferred. The compositions of the present invention preferably include up to about 20% by weight of the hydrophilically substitued cationic surfactants, more 5 preferably up to about 10% by weight. HIGH MELTING POINT COMPOUND The hair conditioning compositions of the present invention comprise a high melting point compound having a melting point of at least about 250C selected from the group consisting of fatty alcohols, fatty acids, fatty alcohol 10 derivatives, fatty acid derivatives, hydrocarbons, steroids, and mixtures thereof. Without being bound by theory, it is believed that these high melting point compounds cover the hair surface and reduce friction, thereby resulting in providing smooth feel on the hair and ease of combing. It is understood by the artisan that the compounds disclosed in this section of the specification can in 15 some instances fall into more than one classification, e.g., some fatty alcohol derivatives can also be classified as fatty acid derivatives. However, a given classification is not intended to be a limitation on that particular compound, but is done so for convenience of classification and nomenclature. Further, it is understood by the artisan that, depending on the number and position of double 20 bonds, and length and position of the branches, certain compounds having certain required carbon atoms may have a melting point of less than about 250C. Such compounds of low melting point are not intended to be included in this section. Nonlimiting examples of the high melting point compounds are found in International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary, Fifth Edition, 1993, and CTFA 25 Cosmetic Ingredient Handbook, Second Edition, 1992, both of which are incorporated by reference herein in their entirety. The fatty alcohols useful herein are those having from about 14 to about 30 carbon atoms, preferably from about 16 to about 22 carbon atoms. These fatty alcohols can be straight or branched chain alcohols and can be saturated or 30 unsaturated. Nonlimiting examples of fatty alcohols include, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof. The fatty acids useful herein are those having from about 10 to about 30 carbon atoms, preferably from about 12 to about 22 carbon atoms, and more preferably from about 16 to about 22 carbon atoms. These fatty acids can be 35 straight or branched chain acids and can be saturated or unsaturated. Also WO 99/24014 PCT/US97/20736 8 included are diacids, triacids, and other multiple acids which meet the requirements herein. Also included herein are salts of these fatty acids. Nonlimiting examples of fatty acids include lauric acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, sebacic acid, and mixtures thereof. 5 The fatty alcohol derivatives and fatty acid derivatives useful herein include alkyl ethers of fatty alcohols, alkoxylated fatty alcohols, alkyl ethers of alkoxylated fatty alcohols, esters of fatty alcohols, fatty acid esters of compounds having esterifiable hydroxy groups, hydroxy-substitued fatty acids, and mixtures thereof. Nonlimiting examples of fatty alcohol derivatives and fatty acid o10 derivatives include materials such as methyl stearyl ether; the ceteth series of compounds such as ceteth-1 through ceteth-45, which are ethylene glycol ethers of cetyl alcohol, wherein the numeric designation indicates the number of ethylene glycol moieties present; the steareth series of compounds such as steareth-1 through 10, which are ethylene glycol ethers of steareth alcohol, 15 wherein the numeric designation indicates the number of ethylene glycol moieties present; ceteareth 1 through ceteareth-10, which are the ethylene glycol ethers of ceteareth alcohol, i.e. a mixture of fatty alcohols containing predominantly cetyl and stearyl alcohol, wherein the numeric designation indicates the number of ethylene glycol moieties present; C1-C 3 0 alkyl ethers of the ceteth, steareth, and 20 ceteareth compounds just described; polyoxyethylene ethers of behenyl alcohol; ethyl stearate, cetyl stearate, cetyl palmitate, stearyl stearate, myristyl myristate, polyoxyethylene cetyl ether stearate, polyoxyethylene stearyl ether stearate, polyoxyethylene lauryl ether stearate, ethyleneglycol monostearate, polyoxyethylene monostearate, polyoxyethylene distearate, propyleneglycol 25 monostearate, propyleneglycol distearate, trimethylolpropane distearate, sorbitan stearate, polyglyceryl stearate, glyceryl monostearate, glyceryl distearate, glyceryl tristearate, and mixtures thereof. Hydrocarbons useful herein include compounds having at least about 20 carbons. 30 Steroids useful herein include compounds such as cholesterol. High melting point compounds of a single compound of high purity are preferred. Single compounds of pure fatty alcohols selected from the group of pure cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, and behenyl alcohol are highly preferred. By "pure" herein, what is meant is that the compound has a purity of at least about 35 90%, preferably at least about 95%. These single compounds of high purity WO 99/24014 PCT/US97/20736 9 provide good rinsability from the hair when the consumer rinses off the composition. Commercially available high melting point compounds useful herein include: cetyl alchol, stearyl alcohol, and behenyl alcohol having tradenames 5 KONOL series available from New Japan Chemical (Osaka, Japan), and NAA series available from NOF (Tokyo, Japan); pure behenyl alcohol having tradename 1-DOCOSANOL available from WAKO (Osaka, Japan), various fatty acids having tradenames NEO-FAT available from Akzo (Chicago Illinois, USA), HYSTRENE available from Witco Corp. (Dublin Ohio, USA), and DERMA 10 available from Vevy (Genova, Italy); and cholesterol having tradename NIKKOL AGUASOME LA available from Nikko. Preferably the compositions of the present invention include from about 5% to about 20% by weight of the high melting point compound. ADDITIONAL CATIONIC SURFACTANT 15 The compositions of the present invention comprise an additional cationic surfactant. The additional cationic surfactants herein are any known to the artisan, other than the hydrophilically substituted cationic surfactants described elsewhere herein. The additional cationic surfactants herein are used at levels from about 0.01% to about 20.0%, preferably from about 0.1% to about 15.0%, 20 and more preferably from about 0.25% to about 10.0%. Among the additional cationic surfactants useful herein are those corresponding to the general formula (I): 1 R 2 + 3 R-N-R X 14 R 25 wherein at least one of R 1 , R 2 , R 3 , and R 4 is selected from an aliphatic group of from 8 to 30 carbon atoms or an aromatic, alkoxy, polyoxyalkylene, alkylamido, hydroxyalkyl, aryl or alkylaryl group having up to about 22 carbon atoms, the remainder of R 1 , R 2 , R 3 , and R 4 are independently selected from an aliphatic group of from 1 to about 22 carbon atoms or an aromatic, alkoxy, 30 polyoxyalkylene, alkylamido, hydroxyalkyl, aryl or alkylaryl group having up to about 22 carbon atoms; and X is a salt-forming anion such as those selected from halogen, (e.g. chloride, bromide), acetate, citrate, lactate, glycolate, WO 99/24014 PCT/US97/20736 10 phosphate, nitrate, sulfonate, sulfate, alkylsulfate, and alkyl sulfonate radicals. The aliphatic groups can contain, in addition to carbon and hydrogen atoms, ether linkages, and other groups such as amino groups. The longer chain aliphatic groups, e.g., those of about 12 carbons, or higher, can be saturated or 5 unsaturated. Preferred is when R 1 , R 2 , R 3 , and R 4 are independently selected from C 1 to about C22 alkyl. Nonlimiting examples of cationic surfactants useful in the present invention include the materials having the following CTFA designations: quaternium-8, quaternium-14, quaternium-18, quaternium-18 methosulfate, quaternium-24, and mixtures thereof. 10 Salts of primary, secondary, and tertiary fatty amines are also suitable additional cationic surfactants. The alkyl groups of such amines preferably have from about 12 to about 22 carbon atoms, and can be substituted or unsubstituted. Particularly useful are amido substituted tertiary fatty amines. Such amines, useful herein, include stearamidopropyldimethylamine, 15 stearamidopropyldiethylamine, stearamidoethyldiethylamine, stearamidoethyldimethylamine, palmitamidopropyldimethylamine, palmitamidopropyldiethylamine, palmitamidoethyldiethylamine, palmitamidoethyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldiethylamine, behenamidoethyldiethylamine, 20 behenamidoethyldimethylamine, arachidamidopropyldimethylamine, arachidamidopropyldiethylamine, arachidamidoethyldiethylamine, arachidamidoethyldimethylamine, diethylaminoethylstearamide. Stearamidopropyldimethylamines are herein preferred, and include those available under the tradenames AMIDOAMINE MPS from Nikko; ANDOGEN S 25 18 from Witco; CHEMIDEX S from Chemron; INCROMINE SB from Croda, Inc.; LEXAMINE S-13 from Inolex; MACKINE 301 from McIntyre; MIRAMINE SODI from Rhine-Poulenc; SCHERCODINE S from Scher; TEGAMINE 18 and TEGO AMID S 18 from Goldschmidt; and UNIZEEN SA from UPI. Also useful are dimethylstearamine, dimethylsoyamine, soyamine, 30 myristylamine, tridecylamine, ethylstearylamine, N-tallowpropane diamine, ethoxylated (with 5 moles of ethylene oxide) stearylamine, dihydroxyethylstearylamine, and arachidylbehenylamine. These amines can also be used in combination with acids such as L-glutamic acid, lactic acid, hydrochloric acid, malic acid, succinic acid, acetic acid, fumaric acid, tartaric acid, 35 citric acid, L-glutamic hydrochloride, and mixtures thereof; more preferably L- WO 99/24014 PCT/US97/20736 11 glutamic acid, lactic acid, citric acid. Cationic amine surfactants included among those useful are disclosed in U.S. Patent 4,275,055, Nachtigal, et al., issued June 23, 1981, which is incorporated by reference herein in its entirety. The additional cationic surfactants for use herein may also include a 5 plurality of ammonium quaternary moieties or amino moieties, or a mixture thereof. Behentrimonium chloride, commercially available under various tradenames, including GENAMIN KDM from Hoescht Celanese/Colorants & Surfactants; INCROQUAT TMC-80 and -95 from Croda, Inc., and VARISOFT BT 185 from Witco, is useful herein. Particularly suitable herein are the available 10 behentrimonium chlorides pre-mixed with volatile solvents, for example lower alkyl alcohols having 1 to 3 carbons such as ethanol and isopropanol; non volatile solvents, for example alkyl alcohols having more than 3 carbons, and polyhydric alcohols such as 1,2-propane diol or propylene glycol, 1,3-propane diol, hexylene glycol, glycerin, diethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 1,2 15 butylene glycol, and 1,4-butylene glycol; and mixtures thereof. WATER The compositions of the present invention comprise water. Further, the compositions herein are substantially free of organic solvents, for example other liquid, water-miscible or water-soluble solvents such as lower alkyl alcohols, e.g., 20 C1-C 5 alkyl monohydric alcohols, and C2-C3 alkyl alcohols. However, levels of up to about 5.0% by weight of the composition of such organic solvents are generally acceptable herein, since the component materials themselves may contain small amounts of such solvents. The water useful herein includes deionized water and water from natural 25 sources containing mineral cations. Deionized water is preferred. ADDITIONAL CONDITIONING AGENTS The compositions of the present invention may further comprise by weight from about 0.01% to about 20.0%, preferably from about 1.0% to about 15.0%, and more preferably from about 2.0% to about 10.0%, of additional conditioning 30 agents. Suitable additional conditioning agents useful herein include oily compounds, cationic polymers, silicone compounds, and nonionic polymers. Oily Compound The compositions of the present invention may additionally comprise an oily compound having a melting point of not more than about 250C selected from 35 the group consisting of a first oily compound, a second oily compound, and WO 99/24014 PCT/US97/20736 12 mixtures thereof. The oily compounds useful herein may be volatile or nonvolatile. Without being bound by theory, it is believed that, the oily compounds may penetrate the hair to modify the hydroxy bonds of the hair, thereby resulting in providing softness and flexibility to the hair. The oily 5 compound may comprise either the first oily compound or the second oily compound as described herein. Preferably, a mixture of the first oily compound and the second oily compound is used. The oily compounds of this section are to be distinguished from the high melting point compounds described above. Nonlimiting examples of the oily compounds are found in International Cosmetic o10 Ingredient Dictionary, Fifth Edition, 1993, and CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Handbook, Second Edition, 1992, both of which are incorporated by reference herein in their entirety. First Oily Compound The fatty alcohols useful herein include those having from about 10 to 15 about 30 carbon atoms, preferably from about 12 to about 22 carbon atoms, and more preferably from about 16 to about 22 carbon atoms. These fatty alcohols can be straight or branched chain alcohols and can be saturated or unsaturated alcohols, preferably unsaturated alcohols. Nonlimiting examples of these compounds include oleyl alcohol, palmitoleic alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, isocetyl 20 alchol, undecanol, octyl dodecanol, octyl decanol, octyl alcohol, caprylic alcohol, decyl alcohol and lauryl alcohol. The fatty acids useful herein include those having from about 10 to about 30 carbon atoms, preferably from about 12 to about 22 carbon atoms, and more preferably from about 16 to about 22 carbon atoms. These fatty acids can be 25 straight or branched chain acids and can be saturated or unsaturated. Suitable fatty acids include, for example, oleic acid, linoleic acid, isostearic acid, linolenic acid, ethyl linolenic acid, ethyl linolenic acid, arachidonic acid, and ricinolic acid. The fatty acid derivatives and fatty alcohol derivatives are defined herein to include, for example, esters of fatty alcohols, alkoxylated fatty alcohols, alkyl 30 ethers of fatty alcohols, alkyl ethers of alkoxylated fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof. Nonlimiting examples of fatty acid derivatives and fatty alcohol derivatives, include, for example, methyl linoleate, ethyl linoleate, isopropyl linoleate, isodecyl oleate, isopropyl oleate, ethyl oleate, octyldodecyl oleate, oleyl oleate, decyl oleate, butyl oleate, methyl oleate, octyldodecyl stearate, 35 octyldodecyl isostearate, octyldodecyl isopalmitate, octyl isopelargonate, octyl WO 99/24014 PCT/US97/20736 13 pelargonate, hexyl isostearate, isopropyl isostearate, isodecyl isononanoate, Oleth-2, pentaerythritol tetraoleate, pentaerythritol tetraisostearate, trimethylolpropane trioleate, and trimethylolpropane triisostearate. Commercially available first oily compounds useful herein include: oleyl 5 alcohol with tradename UNJECOL 90BHR available from New Japan Chemical, pentaerythritol tetraisostearate and trimethylolpropane triisostearate with tradenames KAKPTI and KAKTTI available from Kokyu Alcohol (Chiba, Japan), pentaerythritol tetraoleate having the same tradename as the compound name available from New Japan Chemical, trimethylolpropane trioleate with a 10 tradename ENUJERUBU series available from New Japan Chemical, various liquid esters with tradenames SCHERCEMOL series available from Scher, and hexyl isostearate with a tradename HIS and isopropryl isostearate having a tradename ZPIS available from Kokyu Alcohol. Second Oily Compound 15 The second oily compounds useful herein include straight chain, cyclic, and branched chain hydrocarbons which can be either saturated or unsaturated, so long as they have a melting point of not more than about 25 0 C. These hydrocarbons have from about 12 to about 40 carbon atoms, preferably from about 12 to about 30 carbon atoms, and preferably from about 12 to about 22 20 carbon atoms. Also encompassed herein are polymeric hydrocarbons of alkenyl monomers, such as polymers of C 2

-

6 alkenyl monomers. These polymers can be straight or branched chain polymers. The straight chain polymers will typically be relatively short in length, having a total number of carbon atoms as described above. The branched chain polymers can have substantially higher chain 25 lengths. The number average molecular weight of such materials can vary widely, but will typically be up to about 500, preferably from about 200 to about 400, and more preferably from about 300 to about 350. Also useful herein are the various grades of mineral oils. Mineral oils are liquid mixtures of hydrocarbons that are obtained from petroleum. Specific examples of suitable 30 hydrocarbon materials include paraffin oil, mineral oil, dodecane, isododecane, hexadecane, isohexadecane, eicosene, isoeicosene, tridecane, tetradecane, polybutene, polyisobutene, and mixtures thereof. Preferred for use herein are hydrocarbons selected from the group consisting of mineral oil, isododecane, isohexadecane, polybutene, polyisobutene, and mixtures thereof. 35 Commercially available second oily compounds useful herein include WO 99/24014 PCT/US97/20736 14 isododecane, isohexadeance, and isoeicosene with tradenames PERMETHYL 99A, PERMETHYL 101A, and PERMETHYL 1082, available from Presperse (South Plainfield New Jersey, USA), a copolymer of isobutene and normal butene with tradenames INDOPOL H-100 available from Amoco Chemicals 5 (Chicago Illinois, USA), mineral oil with tradename BENOL available from Witco, isoparaffin with tradename ISOPAR from Exxon Chemical Co. (Houston Texas, USA), c-olefin oligomer with tradename PURESYN from Mobil Chemical Co., and trimethylolpropane tricaprylate/tricaprate with tradename MOBIL ESTER P43 from Mobil Chemical Co. 10 Cationic Polymers As used herein, the term "polymer" shall include materials whether made by polymerization of one type of monomer or made by two (i.e., copolymers) or more types of monomers. Preferably, the cationic polymer is a water-soluble cationic polymer. By 15 "water soluble" cationic polymer, what is meant is a polymer which is sufficiently soluble in water to form a substantially clear solution to the naked eye at a concentration of 0.1% in water (distilled or equivalent) at 25 0 C. The preferred polymer will be sufficiently soluble to form a substantially clear solution at 0.5% concentration, more preferably at 1.0% concentration. 20 The cationic polymers hereof will generally have a weight average molecular weight which is at least about 5,000, typically at least about 10,000, and is less than about 10 million. Preferably, the molecular weight is from about 100,000 to about 2 million. The cationic polymers will generally have cationic nitrogen-containing moieties such as quaternary ammonium or cationic amino 25 moieties, and mixtures thereof. The cationic charge density is preferably at least about 0.1 meq/gram, more preferably at least about 1.5 meq/gram, even more preferably at least about 1.1 meq/gram, still more preferably at least about 1.2 meq/gram. Cationic charge density of the cationic polymer can be determined according to the 30 Kjeldahl Method. Those skilled in the art will recognize that the charge density of amino-containing polymers may vary depending upon pH and the isoelectric point of the amino groups. The charge density should be within the above limits at the pH of intended use. Any anionic counterions can be utilized for the cationic polymers so long 35 as the water solubility criteria is met. Suitable counterions include halides (e.g., WO 99/24014 PCT/US97/20736 15 CI, Br, I, or F, preferably Cl, Br, or I), sulfate, and methylsulfate. Others can also be used, as this list is not exclusive. The cationic nitrogen-containing moiety will be present generally as a substituent, on a fraction of the total monomer units of the cationic hair 5 conditioning polymers. Thus, the cationic polymer can comprise copolymers, terpolymers, etc. of quaternary ammonium or cationic amine-substituted monomer units and other non-cationic units referred to herein as spacer monomer units. Such polymers are known in the art, and a variety can be found in the CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary, 3rd edition, edited by Estrin, t0 Crosley, and Haynes, (The Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association, Inc., Washington, D.C., 1982). Suitable cationic polymers include, for example, copolymers of vinyl monomers having cationic amine or quaternary ammonium functionalities with water soluble spacer monomers such as acrylamide, methacrylamide, alkyl and 15 dialkyl acrylamides, alkyl and dialkyl methacrylamides, alkyl acrylate, alkyl methacrylate, vinyl caprolactone, and vinyl pyrrolidone. The alkyl and dialkyl substituted monomers preferably have C 1 - C 7 alkyl groups, more preferably C 1 - C 3 alkyl groups. Other suitable spacer monomers include vinyl esters, vinyl alcohol (made by hydrolysis of polyvinyl acetate), maleic anhydride, propylene 20 glycol, and ethylene glycol. The cationic amines can be primary, secondary, or tertiary amines, depending upon the particular species and the pH of the composition. In general, secondary and tertiary amines, especially tertiary amines, are preferred. Amine-substituted vinyl monomers can be polymerized in the amine form, 25 and then optionally can be converted to ammonium by a quaternization reaction. Amines can also be similarly quaternized subsequent to formation of the polymer. For example, tertiary amine functionalities can be quaternized by reaction with a salt of the formula R'X wherein R' is a short chain alkyl, preferably a C 1 - C 7 alkyl, more preferably a C 1 - C 3 alkyl, and X is an anion which forms a 30 water soluble salt with the quaternized ammonium. Suitable cationic amino and quaternary ammonium monomers include, for example, vinyl compounds substituted with dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate, dialkylaminoalkyl methacrylate, monoalkylaminoalkyl acrylate, monoalkylaminoalkyl methacrylate, trialkyl methacryloxyalkyl ammonium salt, 35 trialkyl acryloxyalkyl ammonium salt, diallyl quaternary ammonium salts, and vinyl WO 99/24014 PCT/US97/20736 16 quaternary ammonium monomers having cyclic cationic nitrogen-containing rings such as pyridinium, imidazolium, and quaternized pyrrolidone, e.g., alkyl vinyl imidazolium, alkyl vinyl pyridinium, alkyl vinyl pyrrolidone salts. The alkyl portions of these monomers are preferably lower alkyls such as the C 1 - C3 alkyls, more 5 preferably C 1 and C 2 alkyls. Suitable amine-substituted vinyl monomers for use herein include dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate, dialkylaminoalkyl methacrylate, dialkylaminoalkyl acrylamide, and dialkylaminoalkyl methacrylamide, wherein the alkyl groups are preferably C 1 - C 7 hydrocarbyls, more preferably C 1 - C 3 , alkyls. 10 The cationic polymers hereof can comprise mixtures of monomer units derived from amine- and/or quaternary ammonium-substituted monomer and/or compatible spacer monomers. Suitable cationic hair conditioning polymers include, for example: copolymers of 1-vinyl-2-pyrrolidone and 1-vinyl-3-methylimidazolium salt (e.g., 15 chloride salt) (referred to in the industry by the Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association, "CTFA", as Polyquaternium-16), such as those commercially available from BASF Wyandotte Corp. (Parsippany, NJ, USA) under the LUVIQUAT tradename (e.g., LUVIQUAT FC 370); copolymers of 1-vinyl-2 pyrrolidone and dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate (referred to in the industry by 20 CTFA as Polyquaternium-11) such as those commercially available from Gaf Corporation (Wayne, NJ, USA) under the GAFQUAT tradename (e.g., GAFQUAT 755N); cationic diallyl quaternary ammonium-containing polymers, including, for example, dimethyldiallylammonium chloride homopolymer and copolymers of acrylamide and dimethyldiallylammonium chloride, referred to in the industry 25 (CTFA) as Polyquaternium 6 and Polyquaternium 7, respectively; and mineral acid salts of amino-alkyl esters of homo- and co-polymers of unsaturated carboxylic acids having from 3 to 5 carbon atoms, as described in U.S. Patent 4,009,256, incorporated herein by reference. Other cationic polymers that can be used include polysaccharide 30 polymers, such as cationic cellulose derivatives and cationic starch derivatives. Cationic polysaccharide polymer materials suitable for use herein include those of the formula: WO 99/24014 PCT/US97/20736 17 1 I 3 A-O-(R-% -- R) X" R wherein: A is an anhydroglucose residual group, such as a starch or cellulose anhydroglucose residual, R is an alkylene oxyalkylene, polyoxyalkylene, or hydroxyalkylene group, or combination thereof, R 1 , R 2 , and R 3 independently 5 are alkyl, aryl, alkylaryl, arylalkyl, alkoxyalkyl, or alkoxyaryl groups, each group containing up to about 18 carbon atoms, and the total number of carbon atoms for each cationic moiety (i.e., the sum of carbon atoms in R 1 , R 2 and R 3 ) preferably being about 20 or less, and X is an anionic counterion, as previously described. 10 Cationic cellulose is available from Amerchol Corp. (Edison, NJ, USA) in their Polymer JR® and LR® series of polymers, as salts of hydroxyethyl cellulose reacted with trimethyl ammonium substituted epoxide, referred to in the industry (CTFA) as Polyquaternium 10. Another type of cationic cellulose includes the polymeric quaternary ammonium salts of hydroxyethyl cellulose reacted with 15 lauryl dimethyl ammonium-substituted epoxide, referred to in the industry (CTFA) as Polyquaternium 24. These materials are available from Amerchol Corp. (Edison, NJ, USA) under the tradename Polymer LM-200®. Other cationic polymers that can be used include cationic guar gum derivatives, such as guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride (commercially 20 available from Celanese Corp. in their Jaguar R series). Other materials include quaternary nitrogen-containing cellulose ethers (e.g., as described in U.S. Patent 3,962,418, incorporated herein by reference), and copolymers of etherified cellulose and starch (e.g., as described in U.S. Patent 3,958,581, incorporated herein by reference.) 25 Silicone Compounds The additional conditioning agents useful herein include silicone compounds. The silicone compounds hereof can include volatile soluble or insoluble, or nonvolatile soluble or insoluble silicone conditioning agents. By soluble what is meant is that the silicone compound is miscible with the carrier of 30 the composition so as to form part of the same phase. By insoluble what is meant is that the silicone forms a separate, discontinuous phase from the carrier, such as in the form of an emulsion or a suspension of droplets of the silicone.

WO 99/24014 PCT/US97/20736 18 Suitable silicone fluids include polyalkyl siloxanes, polyaryl siloxanes, cyclic siloxanes, polyalkylaryl siloxanes, polyether siloxane copolymers, and mixtures thereof. Other nonvolatile silicone compounds having hair conditioning properties can also be used. 5 The silicone compounds herein also include polyalkyl or polyaryl siloxanes with the following structure (I): R R II T A-i-O-[- -Ti-O-]x-i-A (I) R R R wherein R is alkyl or aryl, and x is an integer from about 7 to about 8,000. "A" 10 represents groups which block the ends of the silicone chains. The alkyl or aryl groups substituted on the siloxane chain (R) or at the ends of the siloxane chains (A) can have any structure as long as the resulting silicone remains fluid at room temperature, is dispersible, is neither irritating, toxic nor otherwise harmful when applied to the hair, is compatible with the other components of the composition, 15 is chemically stable under normal use and storage conditions, and is capable of being deposited on and conditions the hair. Suitable A groups include hydroxy, methyl, methoxy, ethoxy, propoxy, and aryloxy. The two R groups on the silicon atom may represent the same group or different groups. Preferably, the two R groups represent the same group. Suitable R groups include methyl, ethyl, 20 propyl, phenyl, methylphenyl and phenylmethyl. The preferred silicone compounds are polydimethylsiloxane, polydiethylsiloxane, and polymethylphenylsiloxane. Polydimethylsiloxane, which is also known as dimethicone, is especially preferred. The polyalkylsiloxanes that can be used include, for example, polydimethylsiloxanes. These silicone compounds are 25 available, for example, from the General Electric Company in their ViscasilR and SF 96 series, and from Dow Corning in their Dow Corning 200 series. Cyclic siloxanes herein include cyclomethicone with the following structure (II1): WO 99/24014 PCT/US97/20736 19

CH

3 i-O

H

3 n (ll) wherein n is an integer having a value of from 3 to 10. The cyclomethicone may be a single species, or a combination of two or more species. These 5 cyclomethicones are available, for example, from Rh6ne-Poulenc as SILIBIONE OILS 70045, 70045 V2, 70045 V3, and 70045 V5; or from Wacker Silicones as SILOXANE F-222, F-223, F-250, F-251, SWS-03314, or SWS-03400. Polyalkylaryl siloxane fluids can also be used and include, for example, polymethylphenylsiloxanes. These siloxanes are available, for example, from the 10 General Electric Company as SF 1075 methyl phenyl fluid or from Dow Corning as 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid. Especially preferred, for enhancing the shine characteristics of hair, are highly arylated silicone compounds, such as highly phenylated polyethyl silicone having refractive index of about 1.46 or higher, especially about 1.52 or higher. 15 When these high refractive index silicone compounds are used, they should be mixed with a spreading agent, such as a surfactant or a silicone resin, as described below to decrease the surface tension and enhance the film forming ability of the material. The silicone compounds that can be used include, for example, a 20 polypropylene oxide modified polydimethylsiloxane although ethylene oxide or mixtures of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide can also be used. The ethylene oxide and polypropylene oxide level should be sufficiently low so as not to interfere with the dispersibility characteristics of the silicone. These material are also known as dimethicone copolyols. 25 Other silicone compounds include amino substituted materials. Suitable alkylamino substituted silicone compounds include those represented by the following structure (111): WO 99/24014 PCT/US97/20736 20 H3R HO-[-Si-O]x-[-Si-O-]y-H

CH

3 (CH2) a NH ( H 2 )b

NH

2 wherein R is CH 3 or OH, x and y are integers which depend on the molecular weight, the average molecular weight being approximately between 5,000 and 10,000, and a and b are integers from 1 to 5. This polymer is also known as 5 "amodimethicone." Suitable amino substituted silicone fluids include those represented by the formula (IV):

(R

1 )aG3-a-Si-(-OSiG2)n-(-OSiGb(R1)2-b)m-O-SiG3-a(R1)a (IV) in which G is chosen from the group consisting of hydrogen, phenyl, OH, C 1

-C

8 10 alkyl and preferably methyl; a denotes 0 or an integer from 1 to 3, and preferably equals 0; b denotes 0 or 1 and preferably equals 1; the sum n+m is a number from 1 to 2,000 and preferably from 50 to 150, n being able to denote a number from 0 to 1,999 and preferably from 49 to 149 and m being able to denote an integer from 1 to 2,000 and preferably from 1 to 10; R 1 is a monovalent radical 15 of formula CqH2qL in which q is an integer from 2 to 8 and L is chosen from the groups

-N(R

2

)CH

2

-CH

2

-N(R

2

)

2

-N(R

2 )2 -N(R2)3A 20 -N(R 2

)CH

2

-CH

2

-NR

2

H

2

A

in which R 2 is chosen from the group consisting of hydrogen, phenyl, benzyl, a saturated hydrocarbon radical, preferably an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, and A- denotes a halide ion. An especially preferred amino substituted silicone corresponding to 25 formula (IV) is the polymer known as "trimethylsilylamodimethicone", of formula (v): WO 99/24014 PCT/US97/20736 21

H

3 H3 (CH3)3Si-O[- i-0-]n-[- 'i-0-]m-Si(CH3)3 (V)

CH

3 ( H 2 )a NH I ({H)b

NH

2 In this formula n and m are selected depending on the exact molecular weight of the compound desired, and a and b are integers from 1 to 5. Other amino substituted silicone polymers which can be used are 5 represented by the formula (VI): 4 + 3 R CH 2

-CHOH-CH

2 -N (R) 3 Q (R)3Si-O-[- -O-]r-[-i-O-]s-Si(R)3 ) 3 R R R where R 3 denotes a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, preferably an alkyl or alkenyl radical such as methyl; R 4 denotes a 10 hydrocarbon radical, preferably a C 1 - C18 alkylene radical or a C 1 - C18, and more preferably C 1 - C8, alkyleneoxy radical; Q is a halide ion, preferably chloride; r denotes an average statistical value from 2 to 20, preferably from 2 to 8; s denotes an average statistical value from 20 to 200, and preferably from 20 to 50. A preferred polymer of this class is available from Union Carbide under 15 the name "UCAR SILICONE ALE 56." References disclosing suitable nonvolatile dispersed silicone compounds include U.S. Patent No. 2,826,551, to Geen; U.S. Patent No. 3,964,500, to Drakoff, issued June 22, 1976; U.S. Patent No. 4,364,837, to Pader; and British Patent No. 849,433, to Woolston, all of which are incorporated herein by 20 reference in their entirety. Also incorporated herein by reference in its entirety is "Silicon Compounds" distributed by Petrarch Systems, Inc., 1984. This reference provides an extensive, though not exclusive, listing of suitable silicone compounds. Another nonvolatile dispersed silicone that can be especially useful is a 25 silicone gum. The term "silicone gum", as used herein, means a WO 99/24014 PCT/US97/20736 22 polyorganosiloxane material having a viscosity at 250C of greater than or equal to 1,000,000 centistokes. It is recognized that the silicone gums described herein can also have some overlap with the above-disclosed silicone compounds. This overlap is not intended as a limitation on any of these materials. Silicone gums 5 are described by Petrarch, and others including U.S. Patent No. 4,152,416, to Spitzer et al., issued May 1, 1979 and Noll, Walter, Chemistry and Technology of Silicones, New York: Academic Press 1968. Also describing silicone gums are General Electric Silicone Rubber Product Data Sheets SE 30, SE 33, SE 54 and SE 76. All of these described references are incorporated herein by reference in o10 their entirety. The "silicone gums" will typically have a mass molecular weight in excess of about 200,000, generally between about 200,000 and about 1,000,000. Specific examples include polydimethylsiloxane, poly(dimethylsiloxane methylvinylsiloxane) copolymer, poly(dimethylsiloxane diphenylsiloxane methylvinylsiloxane) copolymer and mixtures thereof. 15 Also useful are silicone resins, which are highly crosslinked polymeric siloxane systems. The crosslinking is introduced through the incorporation of tri functional and tetra-functional silanes with mono-functional or di-functional, or both, silanes during manufacture of the silicone resin. As is well understood in the art, the degree of crosslinking that is required in order to result in a silicone 20 resin will vary according to the specific silane units incorporated into the silicone resin. In general, silicone materials which have a sufficient level of trifunctional and tetrafunctional siloxane monomer units, and hence, a sufficient level of crosslinking, such that they dry down to a rigid, or hard, film are considered to be silicone resins. The ratio of oxygen atoms to silicon atoms is indicative of the 25 level of crosslinking in a particular silicone material. Silicone materials which have at least about 1.1 oxygen atoms per silicon atom will generally be silicone resins herein. Preferably, the ratio of oxygen:silicon atoms is at least about 1.2:1.0. Silanes used in the manufacture of silicone resins include monomethyl-, dimethyl-, trimethyl-, monophenyl-, diphenyl-, methylphenyl-, monovinyl-, and 30 methylvinylchlorosilanes, and tetrachlorosilane, with the methyl substituted silanes being most commonly utilized. Preferred resins are offered by General Electric as GE SS4230 and SS4267. Commercially available silicone resins will generally be supplied in a dissolved form in a low viscosity volatile or nonvolatile silicone fluid. The silicone resins for use herein should be supplied and 35 incorporated into the present compositions in such dissolved form, as will be WO 99/24014 PCT/US97/20736 23 readily apparent to those skilled in the art. Without being bound by theory, it is believed that the silicone resins can enhance deposition of other silicone compounds on the hair and can enhance the glossiness of hair with high refractive index volumes. 5 Other useful silicone resins are silicone resin powders such as the material given the CTFA designation polymethylsilsequioxane, which is commercially available as TospearlTM from Toshiba Silicones. The method of manufacturing these silicone compounds, can be found in Encyclopedia of Polymer Science and Engineering, Volume 15, Second Edition, 10 pp 204-308, John Wiley & Sons, Inc., 1989, which is incorporated herein by reference in its entirety. Silicone materials and silicone resins in particular, can conveniently be identified according to a shorthand nomenclature system well known to those skilled in the art as the "MDTQ" nomenclature. Under this system, the silicone is 15 described according to the presence of various siloxane monomer units which make up the silicone. Briefly, the symbol M denotes the mono-functional unit

(CH

3

)

3 SiO).

5 ; D denotes the difunctional unit (CH 3

)

2 SiO; T denotes the trifunctional unit (CH 3 )SiO 1 .5 ; and Q denotes the quadri- or tetra-functional unit SiO 2 . Primes of the unit symbols, e.g., M', D', T', and Q' denote substituents 20 other than methyl, and must be specifically defined for each occurrence. Typical alternate substituents include groups such as vinyl, phenyl, amino, hydroxyl, etc. The molar ratios of the various units, either in terms of subscripts to the symbols indicating the total number of each type of unit in the silicone, or an average thereof, or as specifically indicated ratios in combination with molecular weight, 25 complete the description of the silicone material under the MDTQ system. Higher relative molar amounts of T, Q, T' and/or Q' to D, D', M and/or or M' in a silicone resin is indicative of higher levels of crosslinking. As discussed before, however, the overall level of crosslinking can also be indicated by the oxygen to silicon ratio. 30 The silicone resins for use herein which are preferred are MQ, MT, MTQ, MQ and MDTQ resins. Thus, the preferred silicone substituent is methyl. Especially preferred are MQ resins wherein the M:Q ratio is from about 0.5:1.0 to about 1.5:1.0 and the average molecular weight of the resin is from about 1000 to about 10,000. 35 Nonionic Polymer WO 99/24014 PCT/US97/20736 24 Nonionic polymers useful herein include cellulose derivatives, hydrophobically modified cellulose derivatives, ethylene oxide polymers, and ethylene oxide/propylene oxide based polymers. Suitable nonionic polymers are cellulose derivatives including methylcellulose with tradename BENECEL, 5 hydroxyethyl cellulose with tradename NATROSOL, hydroxypropyl cellulose with tradename KLUCEL, cetyl hydroxyethyl cellulose with tradename POLYSURF 67, all supplied by Herculus. Other suitable nonionic polymers are ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide based polymers with tradenames CARBOWAX PEGs, POLYOX WASRs, and UCON FLUIDS, all supplied by Amerchol. 10 Polyalkylene Glycols These compounds are particularly useful for compositions which are designed to impart a soft, moist feeling to the hair. When present, the polyalkylene glycol is typically used at a level from about 0.025% to about 1.5%, preferably from about 0.05% to about 1%, and more preferably from about 0.1% 15 to about 0.5% of the compositions. The polyalkylene glycols are characterized by the general formula:

H(OCH

2 CH)n-OH R 20 wherein R is selected from the group consisting of H, methyl, and mixtures thereof. When R is H, these materials are polymers of ethylene oxide, which are also known as polyethylene oxides, polyoxyethylenes, and polyethylene glycols. When R is methyl, these materials are polymers of propylene oxide, which are also known as polypropylene oxides, polyoxypropylenes, and polypropylene 25 glycols. When R is methyl, it is also understood that various positional isomers of the resulting polymers can exist. In the above structure, n has an average value of from about 1500 to about 25,000, preferably from about 2500 to about 20,000, and more preferably from about 3500 to about 15,000. 3o Polyethylene glycol polymers useful herein are PEG-2M wherein R equals H and n has an average value of about 2,000 (PEG-2M is also known as Polyox WSR® N-10, which is available from Union Carbide and as PEG-2,000); PEG 5M wherein R equals H and n has an average value of about 5,000 (PEG-5M is also known as Polyox WSR® N-35 and Polyox WSR® N-80, both available from 35 Union Carbide and as PEG-5,000 and Polyethylene Glycol 300,000); PEG-7M WO 99/24014 PCT/US97/20736 25 wherein R equals H and n has an average value of about 7,000 (PEG-7M is also known as Polyox WSR® N-750 available from Union Carbide); PEG-9M wherein R equals H and n has an average value of about 9,000 (PEG 9-M is also known as Polyox WSR® N-3333 available from Union Carbide); and PEG-14 M wherein 5 R equals H and n has an average value of about 14,000 (PEG-14M is also known as Polyox WSR® N-3000 available from Union Carbide). Other useful polymers include the polypropylene glycols and mixed polyethylene/polypropylene glycols. OTHER ADDITIONAL COMPONENTS 10 The compositions of the present invention may include other additional components, which may be selected by the artisan according to the desired characteristics of the final product and which are suitable for rendering the compositions more cosmetically or aesthetically acceptable or to provide them with additional usage benefits. Such other additional components generally are 15 used individually at levels from about 0.001% to about 10.0%, preferably from about 0.01% to about 5.0% by weight of the composition. A wide variety of other additional ingredients can be formulated into the present compositions. These include: other conditioning agents such as hydrolysed collagen with tradename Peptein 2000 available from Hormel, vitamin 20 E with tradename Emix-d available from Eisai, panthenol available from Roche, panthenyl ethyl ether available from Roche, hydrolysed keratin, proteins, plant extracts, and nutrients; hair-fixative polymers such as amphoteric fixative polymers, cationic fixative polymers, anionic fixative polymers, nonionic fixative polymers, and silicone grafted copolymers; preservatives such as benzyl alcohol, 25 methyl paraben, propyl paraben and imidazolidinyl urea; pH adjusting agents, such as citric acid, sodium citrate, succinic acid, phosphoric acid, sodium hydroxide, sodium carbonate; salts, in general, such as potassium acetate and sodium chloride; coloring agents, such as any of the FD&C or D&C dyes; hair oxidizing (bleaching) agents, such as hydrogen peroxide, perborate and 30 persulfate salts; hair reducing agents such as the thioglycolates; perfumes; and sequestering agents, such as disodium ethylenediamine tetra-acetate; ultraviolet and infrared screening and absorbing agents such as octyl salicyclate, antidandruff agents such as zinc pyridinethione; and optical brighteners, for example polystyrylstilbenes, triazinstilbenes, hydroxycoumarins, 35 aminocoumarins, triazoles, pyrazolines, oxazoles, pyrenes, porphyrins, WO 99/24014 PCT/US97/20736 26 imidazoles, and mixtures thereof. EXAMPLES The following examples further describe and demonstrate the preferred 5 embodiments within the scope of the present invention. The examples are given solely for the purposes of illustration, and are not to be construed as limitations of the present invention since many variations thereof are possible without departing from its spirit and scope. Ingredients are identified by chemical or CTFA name, or otherwise defined below. 10 Method of Preparation A suitable method for making the compositions of the present invention comprises the steps of first mixing the hydrophilically substituted cationic surfactant and water at a temperature above about 60 0 C, followed by addition of high melting point compounds while maintaining the temperature above about 60 15 OC, cooling, and finally adding remaining components including heat-sensitive components.

WO 99/24014 PCT/US97/20736 27 Components Ex. 1 Ex. 2 Ex. 3 Ex. 4 Ex. 5 Ex. 6 Dihydrogenated tallow 1.0 1.0 1.0 0.6 1.0 amido ethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate*1 Dicanola amidoethyl - - - - - 1.0 hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate Stearyl alcohol*2 9.0 9.0 9.0 5.4 9.0 9.0 Cetyl alcohol*3 5.0 5.0 5.0 3.0 5.0 5.0 Behentrimonium 1.0 - - - - chloride*4 Stearamidopropyl - 1.0 1.0 0.6 1.0 1.0 dimethylamine*5 Glutamic acid - 0.64 0.64 0.4 0.64 0.64 Polyquaternium-10*6 - - - - 0.05 Pentaerythritol - - 1.0 - - tetraisostearate*7 Silicone*8 4.2 4.2 4.2 4.2 4.2 4.2 Fragrance 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 Preservatives 0.53 0.53 0.53 0.53 0.53 0.53 Hydrolyzed collagen*9 0.01 0.01 0.01 0.01 0.01 0.01 Vitamin E*10 0.01 0.01 0.01 0.01 0.01 0.01 Panthenol*11 0.025 0.025 0.025 0.025 0.025 0.025 Panthenyl Ethyl 0.225 0.225 0.225 0.225 0.225 0.225 Ether*12 Water q.s. to 100% Viscosity (cps) 28000 29000 26000 8000 27000 25000 Definitions *1 Varisoft 110 from Witco 5 *2 Konol series from ShinNihon Rika *3 Konol series from ShinNihon Rika *4 Varisoft BT-85 from Witco *5 Amidoamine MPS from Nikko *6 Polymer LR-400 from Amerchol WO 99/24014 PCT/US97/20736 28 *7 KAK PTI from Kokyu Alcohol *8 Silicone blend from ShinEtsu *9 Peptein 2000 from Hormel *10 Emix from Eisai 5 *11 Panthenol from Roche *12 Panthenyl Ethyl Ether from Roche The embodiments disclosed and represented by the previous examples have many advantages. For example, they can provide high levels of 10 conditioning agents without causing an unacceptably high increase in the viscosity of the composition. They can further provide improved conditioning benefits, including wet and dry combing benefits and good feel when the hair is wet. It is understood that the examples and embodiments described herein are 15 for illustrative purposes only and that various modifications or changes in light thereof will be suggested to one skilled in the art without departing from its spirit and scope.

Claims (14)

1. A hair conditioning composition comprising: (a) a hydrophilically substituted cationic surfactant; (b) from about 5% to about 20% by weight of a high melting point compound; (c) an additional cationic surfactant; and 5 (d) water; wherein 13/a < 4000, where a is the weight percent of the high melting point compound; 13 is viscosity (cps) of the composition at a constant shear rate 2sec-1 after 1 minute, 13 being less than about 35000 cps.

2. The hair conditioning composition of claim 1 wherein the hydrophilically substituted cationic surfactant is selected from the group consisting of dialkylamido ethyl hydroxyethylmonium salt, dialkylamido ethyl dimonium salt, dialkoyl ethyl hydroxyethylmonium salt, dialkoyl ethyldimonium salt, and mixtures 5 thereof.

3. The hair conditioning composition of claim 2 wherein the high melting point compound is selected from the group consisting of cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

4. The hair conditioning composition of claim 3 wherein the additional cationic surfactant is selected from the group consisting of stearamidopropyldimethylamine, behentrimonium chloride, and mixtures thereof.

5. The hair conditioning composition of claim 4 further comprising an additional conditioning agent selected from the group consisting of oily compounds, cationic polymers, silicone compounds, nonionic polymers, and mixtures thereof.

6. The hair conditioning composition of any of the preceeding claims wherein 13 is less than about 32000 cps. WO 99/24014 PCT/US97/20736 30

7. The hair conditioning composition of claim 6 wherein P/a is less than about 3000.

8. The hair conditioning composition of claim 7 wherein P/cc is less than about 2500.

9. A hair conditioning composition comprising by weight: (a) up to about 20% of a hydrophilically substitued cationic surfactant; (b) from about 5% to about 20% of a high melting point compound; (c) from about 0.01% to about 20% of an additional cationic surfactant; and 5 (d) water.

10. The hair conditioning composition of claim 9 wherein the hydrophilically substituted cationic surfactant is selected from the group consisting of dialkylamido ethyl hydroxyethylmonium salt, dialkylamido ethyl dimonium salt, dialkoyl ethyl hydroxyethylmonium salt, dialkoyl ethyldimonium salt, and mixtures 5 thereof.

11. The hair conditioning composition of claim 10 wherein the high melting point compound is selected from the group consisting of cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

12. The hair conditioning composition of claim 11 wherein the additional cationic surfactant is selected from the group consisting of stearamidopropyldimethylamine, behentrimonium chloride, and mixtures thereof.

13. The hair conditioning composition of claim 12 further comprising an additional conditioning agent selected from the group consisting of oily compounds, cationic polymers, silicone compounds, nonionic polymers, and mixtures thereof.

14. The hair conditioning composition of claim 10 comprising up to about 10% of the hydrophilically substituted cationic surfactant.