AU2007294016A1 - Agents containing bioquinones and protein hydrolysates - Google Patents

Agents containing bioquinones and protein hydrolysates Download PDF

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AU2007294016A1
AU2007294016A1 AU2007294016A AU2007294016A AU2007294016A1 AU 2007294016 A1 AU2007294016 A1 AU 2007294016A1 AU 2007294016 A AU2007294016 A AU 2007294016A AU 2007294016 A AU2007294016 A AU 2007294016A AU 2007294016 A1 AU2007294016 A1 AU 2007294016A1
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hair
acid
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AU2007294016A
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Elisabeth Poppe
Erik Schulze Zur Wiesche
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Henkel AG and Co KGaA
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Henkel AG and Co KGaA
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/64Proteins; Peptides; Derivatives or degradation products thereof
    • A61K8/65Collagen; Gelatin; Keratin; Derivatives or degradation products thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/35Ketones, e.g. benzophenone
    • A61K8/355Quinones
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/64Proteins; Peptides; Derivatives or degradation products thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/12Preparations containing hair conditioners
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q7/00Preparations for affecting hair growth
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00Preparations for care of the hair
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/02Preparations for cleaning the hair
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/06Preparations for styling the hair, e.g. by temporary shaping or colouring

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  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Public Health (AREA)
  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
  • Birds (AREA)
  • Epidemiology (AREA)
  • Dermatology (AREA)
  • Emergency Medicine (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)

Description

WO 2008/028777 Al PCT/EP2007/058486 H 07227 AGENTS CONTAINING BIOQUINONES AND PROTEIN HYDROLYSATES [0002] The invention relates to hair treatment agents containing at least one bioquinone and at least one protein hydrolysate. The invention furthermore relates to a method for improving the hair structure of human hair using the agent and to the use of the agent for improving the hair structure of human hair. [0003] Hair follicle cells are governed by a genetically determined cycle of growth, regression and a resting phase. The hair follicle is thus the only organ which constantly renews itself and thus, depending on the particular growth phase, has a unique metabolism. Synthesis of the structure-determining keratins is also linked with this cycle. This cycle is controlled by a small, highly specialized cell population in the hair bulb, the dermal papillary cells, by means of a unique, complex molecular signaling system which is specific to each phase of the hair cycle (Botchkarev VA et al. (2003) J. Investig. Dermatol. Symp. Proc. 8:46-55). If the intention is now to modulate the metabolism of these highly specialized cells by application of a test formulation, it is essential to act in targeted manner on the corresponding mechanisms. [0004] Hepatocyte Growth Factor (HGF) and Keratinocyte Growth Factor (KGF) are important growth factors which are secreted by the dermal papilla in order to control the proliferation of the hair keratinocytes which are responsible for the synthesis of hair keratins. They are moreover characteristic markers of the anagen phase, during which keratin synthesis is also at its highest. It must furthermore be borne in mind that the proliferation capacity of the hair follicle cells declines as the hair ages. HGF and/or KGF should accordingly be induced in the case of a substance which has keratin-activation potential and counters hair aging. TGF-p2 and IGFBP-3 have a growth-inhibiting action and are characteristic markers of the catagen phase, in which keratin synthesis in the follicle is shut down. This markers should be repressed in the case of a substance which promotes keratin synthesis.
H 07227 [0005] Hair keratins are the most important structure-determining constituent of hair. The elevated importance of hair keratin to healthy hair fibers is revealed by the fact that genetic mutations in hair keratins hHb6 and hHb1 give rise to serious changes, such as for example deformation and breakage of the hair fibers (monilethrix). Mice with a point mutation of Ha3 gene moreover exhibit a naked phenotype without a coat (nude mice). [0006] In addition to its actual physiological function, such as providing thermal insulation and photoprotection, hair has a psychosocial function which should not be underestimated. It serves as a means of interpersonal communication and is a sign of a person's individuality. Changes, including those determined by age, in hair growth, density or structure may have a huge negative impact on the self-confidence of an affected individual. [0007] At present, there are almost no cosmetic preparations which assist in improving hair structure by means of synthesis of hair-specific keratins in a biological and thus sustainable manner. (0008] The object of the present invention was therefore to provide suitable active ingredients for producing cosmetic preparations which can be applied topically onto the scalp where they activate keratin synthesis and so improve hair structure. [0009] This object is to a great extent achieved by the provision of an agent, in particular for treating hair, which contains a) at least one bioquinone and b) at least one protein hydrolysate. [0010] Bioquinones have hitherto primarily been used as antioxidants in skin cosmetics. There are also various applications which claim the use of ubiquinone in hair care products. Application W0200401095 accordingly describes the use of a formulation which may inter alia contain ubiquinone as an antioxidant for improving the surface quality of the hair. 2 H 07227 [0011] Application EP-A-1 059 081 claims the use of ubiquinone for reducing oxidative damage to hair. While applications EP-A-1 059 077 and EP-A-1 059 080 do indeed use ubiquinone for improving hair structure, this is a purely superficial, physical effect which is based on an improvement in combability. [0012] None of these applications, however, claims the stimulation the keratin synthesis., by means of which the internal structure of the hair is improved. [0013] Application W02004089326 claims the use of an active ingredient combination of creatinine, creatine and bioquinones. This formulation is in particular intended for use in inflammatory skin conditions and/or for skin protection. However, this application likewise fails to address the effect of ubiquinone on keratin synthesis. [0014] The present invention accordingly firstly provides an agent, in particular for treating hair, containing a) at least one protein hydrolysate and b) at least one bioquinone. [0015] It has been found that treating hair with these agents led to stimulation of the synthesis of a plurality of hair keratins and thus to an improvement in hair structure. [0016] Agents which are preferred according to the invention are those in which the ratio of protein hydrolysate(s) to the bioquinone(s) is in the range from 2:1 to 1000:1, preferably in the range from 5:1 to 500:1 and in particular in the range from 10:1 to 200:1. [0017] Protein hydrolysates which are suitable according to the invention are product mixtures which are obtained by acidically, basically or enzymatically catalysed degradation of proteins. According to the invention, they may be of both plant and animal origin. [0018] Animal protein hydrolysates are for example elastin, collagen, keratin, silk and milk protein hydrolysates which may also assume salt form. Such products are distributed for example under the tradenames Dehylan@ (Cognis), 3 H 07227 Promois@ (Interorgana), Collapuron@ (Cognis), Nutrilan@ (Cognis), Gelita-Sol® (Deutsche Gelatine Fabriken Stoess & Co), Lexein@ (Inolex) and Kerasol@ (Croda). [0019] Protein hydrolysates of plant origin comprise for example soy, almond, rice, pea, potato and wheat protein hydrolysates. Such products are obtainable, for example, under the trademarks Gluadin@ (Cognis), DiaMin@ (Diamalt), Lexein@ (Inolex) and Crotein@ (Croda). [0020] Protein hydrolysates of animal origin are particularly preferred according to the invention. In particular, keratin hydrolysates from sheep's wool and collagen hydrolysates are used in the agents according to the invention. [0021] It is likewise particularly preferred to use protein hydrolysates of a size of 400 to 1200 dalton. [0022] Although the use of protein hydrolysates is preferred per se, amino acid mixtures or individual amino acids such as for example arginine, -lysine, histidine or pyroglutamic acid obtained in a different manner may optionally also be used instead. It is likewise possible to use derivatives of protein hydrolysates, for example in the form of the fatty acid condensation products thereof. Such products are distributed, for example, under the names Lamepon@ (Cognis), Gluadin@ (Cognis), Lexein® (Inolex), Crolastin® (Croda) or Crotein@ (Croda). [0023] Cationized protein hydrolysates may also be used according to the invention, the underlying protein hydrolysate possibly originating from animals, for example from collagen, milk or keratin, from plants, for example from wheat, maize, rice, potatoes, soy or almonds, from marine life forms, for example from fish collagen or algae, or from biotechnologically obtained protein hydrolysates. The protein hydrolysates underlying the cationic derivatives according to the invention may be obtained from the corresponding proteins by chemical, in particular alkaline or acidic, hydrolysis, by enzymatic hydrolysis and/or by a combination of both types of hydrolysis. Protein hydrolysis as a rule gives rise to a protein hydrolysate with a molecular weight distribution of approx. 100 4 H 07227 daltons up to several thousand daltons. Those cationic protein hydrolysates are preferred whose underlying protein fraction has a molecular weight of 100 up to 25000 daltons, preferably 250 to 5000 daltons. Furthermore, cationic protein hydrolysates include quaternized amino acids and mixtures thereof. Quaternization of the protein hydrolysates or of the amino acids is often performed by means of quaternary ammonium salts such as for example N,N dimethyl-N-(n-alkyl)-N-(2-hydroxy-3-chloro-n-propyl)-ammonium halides. The cationic protein hydrolysates may additionally also be still further derivatized. Typical examples of the cationic protein hydrolysates and derivatives according to the invention which may be mentioned are those that are commercially obtainable and mentioned under the INCI names in the "International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook", (seventh edition 1997, The Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association 1101 17th Street, N.W., Suite 300, Washington, DC 20036-4702): Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Hair Keratin, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Silk, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Silk Amino Acids, Hydroxypropyl Arginine Lauryl/Myristyl Ether HCI, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Gelatin, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Casein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Collagen, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Conchiolin Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Keratin, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Rice Bran Protein, Hydroxyproypltrimonium Hydrolyzed Silk, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein/Siloxysilicate, Laurdimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Laurdimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Laurdimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein/Siloxysilicate, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, 5 H 07227 Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Silk, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Silk, Steardinionium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Steartrimonium Hydroxyethyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Quaternium-76 Hydrolyzed Collagen, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Collagen, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Keratin, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Milk Protein, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Silk, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein. Plant-based cationic protein hydrolysates and derivatives are very particularly preferred. [00241 The agents according to the invention contain the protein hydrolysates and/or the derivatives thereof in quantities of 0.01-10 wt.% relative to the total agent. Quantities of 0.05 to 5 wt.%, in particular 0.1 to 3 wt.%, are very particularly preferred. [0025] In the agents according to the invention, suitable bioquinones should be taken to mean one or more ubiquinone(s) and/or plastoquinone(s). [0026] Ubiquinones are the most widespread and thus best investigated bioquinones. Ubiquinones are named Q-1, Q-2, Q-3 etc. depending on the number of isoprene units linked in the side chain, or U-5, U-10, U-15 etc. according to the number of C atoms. They preferably occur with specific chain lengths, for example in some microorganisms and yeasts with n=6. In most mammals including humans, Q-10 predominates. In the body, ubiquinones act as electron-transfer agents in the respiratory chain. They are located in the mitochondria, where they enable cyclic oxidation and reduction of the substrates of the citric acid cycle. 6 H 07227 [0027] Ubiquinones which are preferred according to the invention have the following formula: O CH30 CH13
CH
3 0 O CH13 n with n = 6, 7, 8, 9 or 10. [0028] The ubiquinone of the formula with n = 10, also known as coenzyme Q10, is particularly preferred according to the invention. [0029] Plastoquinones have the general structural formula O Cl-1 H3 CHH 3 They may be isolated from chloroplasts and, as redox substrates, play a role in cyclic and non-cyclic electron transport in photosynthesis, being reversibly transformed into the corresponding hydroquinones (plastoquinol). Plastoquinones differ in the number n of isoprene residues and are named accordingly, for example PQ-9 (n=9). There are furthermore other plastoquinones with different substituents on the quinone ring. [0030] The bioquinone(s) is/are used in the agents according to the invention, relative to their weight, in a quantity of from 0.0000005 to 2%, preferably in a quantity of from 0.000001 to 1% and in particular in a quantity of from 0.00001 to 0.5%. [0031] According to a further, preferred embodiment of the invention the agents furthermore contain at least one emulsifier and/or at least one dialkyl 7 H 07227 ether. The addition of one or more of these substances has a positive influence on the availability of the active ingredients in the hair root. [0032] Emulsifiers which are suitable according to the invention should for example be taken to be the following compounds: - addition products of 4 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide and/or 0 to 5 mol of propylene oxide onto linear fatty alcohols having 8 to 22 C atoms, onto fatty acids having 12 to 22 C atoms and onto alkylphenols having 8 to 15 C atoms in the alkyl group, - C 12
-C
2 2 fatty acid mono- and diesters of addition products of 1 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide onto polyols having 3 to 6 carbon atoms, in particular onto glycerol, - ethylene oxide and polyglycerol addition products onto methyl glucoside fatty acid esters, fatty acid alkanolamides and fatty acid glucamides, - C 8
-C
22 alkyl mono- and oligoglycosides and the ethoxylated analogues thereof, with degrees of oligomerization of 1.1 to 5, in particular of 1.2 to 2.0, and glucose as the sugar component being preferred, - mixtures of alkyl (oligo)glucosides and fatty alcohols, for example the commercially available product Montanov@68, - addition products of 5 to 60 mol of ethylene oxide onto castor oil and hardened castor oil, - partial esters of polyols having 3-6 carbon atoms with saturated fatty acids having 8 to 22 C atoms, - sterols. Sterols are taken to be a group of steroids which bear a hydroxyl group on C atom 3 of the steroid skeleton and may be isolated both from animal tissue (zoosterols) and from vegetable fats (phytosterols). Examples of zoosterols are cholesterol and lanosterol. Examples of suitable phytosterols are ergosterol, stigmasterol and sitosterol. Sterols are also isolated from fungi and yeasts, these being known as mycosterols. - phospholipids. These are primarily taken to mean glucose phospholipids which are for example obtained as lecithins or phosphatidylcholines for example from egg yolk or plant seeds (for example soy beans). 8 H 07227 - fatty acid esters of sugars and sugar alcohols, such as sorbitol, - polyglycerols and polyglycerol derivatives such as for example polyglycerol poly-1 2-hydroxystearate (commercial product Dehymuls@ PGPH), - linear and branched fatty acids having 8 to 30 C atoms and the Na, K, ammonium, Ca, Mg and Zn salts thereof. [0033] Emulsifiers which are particularly suitable according to the invention are polyethylene glycol alkyl ethers with alkyl chain lengths of 6 to 30 C atoms, preferably of 12 to 22 C atoms and a degree of ethoxylation of 1 to 1000, preferably of 1 to 500 and in particular of 1 to 100. [0034] Particularly preferred polyethylene glycol ethers for the purposes of the invention are the substances known by the INC[ name ceteareth-6, ceteareth-9, ceteareth-10, ceteareth-20, ceteareth-30, ceteareth-25, steareth-10 and steareth-20. [0035] Emulsifiers which are particularly suitable for the purposes of the invention are furthermore C 12
-C
22 fatty acid mono- and diesters of addition products of 1 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide onto polyols having 3 to 6 carbon atoms, in particular onto glycerol. In particular, PEG-20 glyceryl stearate, PEG 7 glyceryl cocoate, PEG-30 glyceryl stearate, PEG-6 caprylic/capric glycerides, polyglyceryl 3-diisostearate and glycereth 2-cocoate are suitable. [0036] The agents according to the invention preferably contain the emulsifiers in quantities of 0.01-25 wt.%, preferably in quantities of 0.05 to 20 wt.% and in particular in quantities of 0.1-10 wt.%, relative to the total agent. [0037] Dialkyl ethers which are suitable according to the invention are di-n alkyl ethers having a total of 5 to 50 C atoms, preferably with between 8 and 40 and in particular with 12 to 24 C atoms, such as for example di-n-octyl ether (Cetiol@OE), di-n-decyl ether, di-n-nonyl ether, di-n-undecyl ether, di-n-dodecyl ether, n-hexyl-n-octyl ether, n-octyl-n-decyl ether, n-decyl-n-undecyl ether, n undecyl-n-dodecyl ether and n-hexyl-n-undecyl ether and di-tert.-butyl ether, di iso-pentyl ether, di-3-ethyldecyl ether, tert.-butyl-n-octyl ether, iso-pentyl-n-octyl 9 H 07227 ether, 2-methylpentyl-n-octyl ether and 1,3-di-(2-ethylhexyl)-cyclohexane (Cetiol@ S). Dicaprylyl ether is particularly suitable according to the invention. [0038] The agents according to the invention preferably contain the dialkyl ethers in quantities of 0.01-50 wt.%, preferably in quantities of 0.05 to 20 wt.% and in particular in quantities of 0.1-15 wt.%, relative to the total agent. [0039] No restrictions in principle apply with regard to the manner in which the active ingredient combination according to the invention is applied onto the keratin fibers, in particular human hair, and onto the skin. Suitable formulations of these preparations are for example creams, lotions, solutions, washes, emulsions such as W/O, O/W, PIT emulsions (phase-inversion or PIT emulsions), microemulsions and multiple emulsions, coarse, unstable, mono or multiphasic shaken mixtures, gels, sprays, aerosols and foam aerosols. These are generally formulated on an aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic base. The alcoholic component used here comprises lower alkanols and polyols such as propylene glycol and glycerol. Ethanol and isopropanol are preferred alcohols. Water and alcohol may be present in the aqueous-alcoholic base in a weight ratio of 1:10 to 10:1. Water and aqueous-alcoholic mixtures which contain up to 50 wt.%, in particular up to 25 wt.%, of alcohol, relative to the alcohol/water mixture may be preferred bases according to the invention. The pH value of these preparations may in principle range from 2-11. It is preferably between 2 and 7, with values of 3 to 5 being particularly preferred. This pH value may be established by using virtually any acid or base which is usable for cosmetic purposes. Edible acids are conventionally used as acids. Edible acids are taken to mean such acids which are consumed within the context of conventional food intake and have a positive effect on the human body. Edible acids are for example acetic acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, malic acid, ascorbic acid and gluconic acid. It is particularly preferred for the purposes of the invention to use citric acid and lactic acid. 10 H 07227 [0040] Preferred bases are ammonia, alkali metal hydroxides, monoethanolamine, triethanolamine and N,N,N',N'-tetrakis-(2-hydroxypropyl) ethylenediamine. [0041] Preparations which remain on the skin and hair have proved particularly effective and may therefore constitute preferred embodiments of the teaching according to the invention. "Remaining on the skin and hair" is taken according to the invention to describe those preparations which, in the context of treatment, are not rinsed back off the skin or out of the hair with the assistance of water or an aqueous solution after a period of from a few seconds up to one hour. Instead the preparations remain on the skin or in the hair until it is next washed. [0042] According to a particularly preferred embodiment for application onto the hair, the agents according to the invention are formulated as a hair serum, hair tonic, conditioner, hair rinse, hair strengthener, hair spray or hair gel. Once this exposure time has elapsed, the preparations according to the invention according to this embodiment may be rinsed out with water or an at least predominantly hydrous agent; however, as explained above, they are preferably left on the hair. It may here be preferred to apply the preparation according to the invention onto the hair before application of a cleaning agent, a permanent-wave composition or other hair treatment agents. In this case, the preparation according to the invention acts as color protection for the subsequent applications. [0043] However, a further preferred form for use of the agent according to the invention is also a shampoo. [0044] In one particular embodiment of the agents according to the invention, it may be preferred for the agent to be present as a microemulsion. For the purposes of the invention, microemulsions are likewise taken to mean "PIT" emulsions. These emulsions in principle comprise systems having the 3 components water, oil and emulsifier, which at room temperature assume the form of an oil-in-water (0/W) emulsion. When these systems are heated, microemulsions form in a specific temperature range (conventionally described 11 H 07227 as the phase inversion temperature or "PIT') and, on further heating, these change into water-in-oil (W/0) emulsions. On subsequent cooling, O/W emulsions reform, but even at room temperature these assume the form of microemulsions having an average particle diameter of less than 400 nm, in particular having a particle diameter of approx. 100-300 nm. Details regarding these very stable, low-viscosity systems, which are now generally known as "PIT emulsions", may be found in numerous documents, representatively in the publications in Angew. Chem. 97, 655-669 (1985) and Adv. Colloid Interface Sci. 58, 119-149 (1995). [0045] Such microemulsions or "PIT" emulsions which may be preferred according to the invention are those having an average particle diameter of approx. 200 nm. [0046] Production of the microemulsions according to the invention may for example proceed in that the phase inversion temperature of the system is initially determined by heating a sample of the conventionally produced emulsion and, using a conductivity meter, determining the temperature at which conductivity drops sharply. The drop in specific conductivity of the initially present O/W emulsion here generally proceeds over a temperature range of 2 to 80C from originally greater than 1 mS/cm to values of below 0.1 mS/cm. This temperature range then corresponds to the phase inversion temperature range. Accordingly, once the phase inversion temperature range is known, the emulsion, initially conventionally produced from oil component, nonionogenic emulsifier, at least some of the water and optionally further components, can be heated to a temperature which is within or above the phase inversion temperature range, then cooled and optionally further components and the remaining water added. Alternatively, the microemulsion may also be produced directly at a temperature which is within or above the phase inversion temperature range. The resultant microemulsion is then cooled to a temperature below the phase inversion temperature range, conventionally room temperature. 12 H 07227 [0047] In a preferred embodiment of the teaching according to the invention, action may be further enhanced with polymers. Polymers should be taken to mean both natural and synthetic polymers, which may be anionically, cationically or amphoterically charged or nonionic. [0048] Cationic polymers are polymers which comprise groups in the main and/or side chain which may be "temporarily" or "permanently" cationic. Polymers which are designated "permanently cationic" according to the invention are those which, irrespective of the pH value of the agent, comprise a cationic group. As a rule, these are polymers which contain a quaternary nitrogen atom, for example in the form of an ammonium group. Preferred cationic groups are quaternary ammonium groups. Polymers which have proven particularly suitable are in particular those in which the quaternary ammonium group is bound via a C 1 4 hydrocarbon group to a main polymer chain synthesized from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or the derivatives thereof. [0049] Homopolymers of the general formula (PI),
R
1 8
-(CH
2 -C-]n X' (PI)
CO-O-(CH
2 )mN*R 1
SR
20
R
2 1 in which R 1 8 is -H or -CH 3 , R' 9 , R 20 and R 2 1 are mutually independently selected from C14 alkyl, alkenyl or hydroxyalkyl groups, m = 1, 2, 3 or 4, n is a natural number and X a physiologically acceptable organic or inorganic anion, and copolymers substantially consisting of the monomer units listed in formula (Ill) and nonionogenic monomer units are particularly preferred cationic polymers. In the context of these polymers, those which are preferred according to the invention are those for which at least one of the following conditions applies: - R 1 8 denotes a methyl group - R 1 9 , R 20 and R 21 denote methyl groups - m has the value 2. 13 H 07227 [0050] Physiologically acceptable counterions X- which may, for example, be considered are halide ions, sulfate ions, phosphate ions, methosulfate ions and organic ions such as lactate, citrate, tartrate and acetate ions. Halide ions, in particular chloride, are preferred. [0051] A particularly suitable homopolymer is poly(methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride), which may if desired be crosslinked, with the INCI name of polyquaternium-37. Crosslinking may if desired proceed with the assistance of olefinically polyunsaturated compounds, for example divinylbenzene, tetraallyloxyethane, methylenebisacrylamide, diallyl ether, polyallyl polyglyceryl ether, or allyl ethers of sugars or sugar derivatives such as erythritol, pentaerythritol, arabitol, mannitol, sorbitol, sucrose or glucose. Methylenebisacrylamide is a preferred crosslinking agent. [0052] The homopolymer is preferably used in the form of a nonaqueous polymer dispersion which should have a polymer fraction of no less than 30 wt.%. Such polymer dispersions are commercially available under the names Salcare@ SC 95 (approx. 50% polymer fraction, further components: mineral oil (INCI name: Mineral Oil) and tridecyl-polyoxypropylene polyoxyethylene ether (INCI name: PPG-1-Trideceth-6)) and Salcare@ SC 96 (approx. 50% polymer fraction, further components: mixture of diesters of propylene glycol with a mixture of caprylic and capric acid (INCI name: Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate) and tridecyl-polyoxypropylene polyoxyethylene ether (INCI name: PPG-1-Trideceth-6)). [0053] Copolymers with monomer units according to the formula (PI) preferably contain acrylamide, methacrylamide, acrylic acid C 1 - alkyl esters and methacrylic acid C1A alkyl esters as nonionogenic monomer units. Acrylamide is particularly preferred among these nonionogenic monomers. These copolymers, as described above for the homopolymers, may also be crosslinked. A copolymer which is preferred according to the invention is crosslinked acrylamide-methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer. Such copolymers, in which the monomers are present in a weight 14 H 07227 ratio of approx. 20:80, are commercially available as approx. 50% nonaqueous polymer dispersions under the name Salcare@ SC 92. [0054] Further preferred cationic polymers are for example - quaternized cellulose derivatives, as are commercially available under the names Celquat@ and Polymer JR@. The compounds Celquat@ H 100, Celquat@ L 200 and Polymer JR@400 are preferred quaternized cellulose derivatives, - cationic alkyl polyglycosides according to DE-PS 44 13 686, - cationized honey, for example the commercial product Honeyquat® 50, - cationic guar derivatives, such as in particular the products distributed under the trade names Cosmedia@Guar and Jaguar@, - polysiloxanes with quaternary groups, such as for example the commercially obtainable products Q2-7224 (manufacturer: Dow Corning; a stabilized trimethylsilylamodimethicone), Dow Corning@ 929 Emulsion (containing a hydroxylamine-modified silicone which is also designated an amodimethicone), SM-2059 (manufacturer: General Electric), SLM 55067 (manufacturer: Wacker) and Abil@-Quat 3270 and 3272 (manufacturer: Th. Goldschmidt; diquaternary polydimethylsiloxane, Quaternium-80). - polymeric dimethyldiallylammonium salts and the copolymers thereof with esters and amides of acrylic acid and methacrylic acid. The products commercially available under the names Merquat@100 (poly(dimethyldiallylammonium chloride)) and Merquat@550 (dimethyldiallylammonium chloride-acrylamide copolymer) are examples of such cationic polymers, - copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone with quaternized derivatives of dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate and methacrylate, such as for example vinylpyrrolidone-dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymers quaternized with diethyl sulfate. Such compounds are commercially available under the names Gafquat@734 and Gafquat@755, 15 H 07227 - vinylpyrrolidone-vinylimidazolium methochloride copolymers, as are offered for sale under the names Luviquat@ FC 370, FC 550, FC 905 and HM 552, - quaternized polyvinyl alcohol, and the polymers known by the names - Polyquaternium 2, - Polyquaternium 17, - Polyquaternium 18 and - Polyquaternium 27 with quaternary nitrogen atoms in the polymer main chain. [0055] The polymers known under the names Polyquaternium-24 (commercial product, for example Quatrisoft@ LM 200) may also be used as cationic polymers. Copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone, as are available as commercial products Copolymer 845 (manufacturer: ISP), Gaffix@ VC 713 (manufacturer: ISP), Gafquat@ASCP 1011, Gafquat@HS 110, Luviquat@8155 and Luviquat@ MS 370 may likewise be used according to the invention. [0056] Further cationic polymers according to the invention are "temporarily cationic" polymers. These polymers conventionally contain an amino group which at specific pH values assumes the form of a quaternary ammonium group and is thus cationic. Chitosan and the derivatives thereof are for example preferred, as are readily commercially available for example under the trade names Hydagen@ CMF, Hydagen@ HCMF, Kytamer@ PC and Chitolam@ NB/101. Chitosans are deacetylated chitins which are commercially available in various degrees of deacetylation and various degrees of degradation (molecular weights). [0057] Particularly highly suitable chitosans exhibit a degree of deacetylation of at least 80% and a molecular weight of 5-105 to 5.106 (g/mol). [0058] In order to produce preparations according to the invention, the chitosan must be converted into the salt form. This may proceed by dissolution in dilute aqueous acids. Suitable acids are both mineral acids such as for example hydrochloric acid, sulfuric acid and phosphoric acid and organic acids, 16 H 07227 for example low molecular weight carboxylic acids, polycarboxylic acids and hydroxycarboxylic acids. Relatively high molecular weight alkylsulfonic acids or alkylsulfuric acids or organophosphoric adds may furthermore be used, provided that they have the necessary physiological acceptability. Suitable acids for converting the chitosans into the salt form are for example acetic acid, glycolic acid, tartaric acid, malic acid, citric acid, lactic acid, 2-pyrrolidinone-5 carboxylic acid, benzoic acid or salicylic acid. Low molecular weight hydroxycarboxylic acids such as for example glycolic acid or lactic acid are preferably used. [0059] The anionic polymers which can support the action of the active ingredient according to the invention are anionic polymers which comprise carboxylate and/or sulfonate groups. Examples of anionic monomers of which such polymers may consist are acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, maleic anhydride and 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid. In this case, the acidic groups may be present wholly or in part as a sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium salt. 2-Acrylamido-2 methylpropanesulfonic acid and acrylic acid are preferred monomers. [0060] Anionic polymers which have proven very particularly effective are those which contain as sole or co-monomer 2-acrylamido-2 methylpropanesulfonic acid, wherein the sulfonic acid group may be present wholly or in part as a sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium salt. [0061] The homopolymer of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid is particularly preferred, and is commercially available for example under the name Rheothik@1 1-80. [0062] Within this embodiment it may be preferable to use copolymers of at least one anionic monomer and at least one nonionogenic monomer. With regard to anionic monomers, reference is made to the above-listed substances. Preferred nonionogenic monomers are acrylamide, methacrylamide, acrylic acid esters, methacrylic acid esters, vinylpyrrolidone, vinyl ethers and vinyl esters. 17 H 07227 [0063] Preferred anionic copolymers are acrylic acid-acrylamide copolymers and in particular polyacrylamide copolymers with monomers containing sulfonic acid groups. A particularly preferred anionic copolymer consists of 70 to 55 mol% acrylamide and 30 to 45 mol% 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, the sulfonic acid group being present wholly or in part as a sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium salt. This copolymer may also be present in crosslinked form, wherein polyolefinically unsaturated compounds such as tetraallyloxyethane, allyl sucrose, allyl pentaerythritol and methylenebisacrylamide are preferably used as the crosslinking agents. Such a polymer is contained in the commercial product Sepigel@305 from SEPPIC. Use of this compound, which contains in addition to the polymer component a hydrocarbon mixture (C 13
-C
14 isoparaffin) and a nonionogenic emulsifier (Laureth-7), has proven particularly advantageous for the purposes of the teaching according to the invention. [0064] The sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymers distributed under the name Simulgel@600 as a compound with isohexadecane and polysorbate-80 have also proven particularly effective according to the invention. [0065] Anionic homopolymers which are likewise preferred are uncrosslinked and crosslinked polyacrylic acids. In this case, allyl ethers of pentaerythritol, of sucrose and of propylene may be preferred crosslinking agents. Such compounds are commercially available for example under the tradename Carbopol@. [0066] Copolymers of maleic anhydride and methyl vinyl ether, in particular those comprising crosslinks, are also color-preserving polymers. A maleic acid methyl vinyl ether copolymer crosslinked with 1,9-decadiene is commercially available under the name Stabileze@ QM. [0067] Amphoteric polymers may furthermore be used as a polymer ingredient for increasing the action of the active ingredient combination according to the invention. The term amphoteric polymers includes not only those polymers which contain in each molecule both free amino groups and free -COOH- or
SO
3 H groups and are capable of forming internal salts, but also zwitterionic 18 H 07227 polymers, which contain in each molecule quaternary ammonium groups and COO~ or -S0 3 ~ groups, and those polymers which contain -COOH- or SO 3 H groups and quaternary ammonium groups. [0068] One example of an amphoteric polymer usable according to the invention is the acrylic resin obtainable under the name Amphomer@, which is a copolymer of tert.-butylaminoethyl methacrylate, N-(1,1,3,3 tetramethylbutyl)acrylamide and two or more monomers from the group acrylic acid, methacrylic acid and the simple esters thereof. [0069] Amphoteric polymers which are preferably used are those polymers which are substantially composed of (a) monomers with quaternary ammonium groups of the general formula (PN),
R
2 -CH=CR"-CO-Z-(CnH 2 n)-N)R 24
R
2 5 R7 6 A" (Pil) in which R 22 and R 2 3 mutually independently denote hydrogen or a methyl group and R 24 , R 2 ' and R 2 1 mutually independently denote. alkyl groups having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, Z is an NH group or an oxygen atom, n is an integer from 2 to 5 and A" is the anion of an organic or inorganic acid and (b) monomeric carboxylic acids of the general formula (PNI), R"-CH=CR"-COOH (Pill) in which R 27 and R 28 are mutually independently hydrogen or methyl groups. [0070] These compounds may be used according to the invention both directly and in salt form, which is obtained by neutralization of the polymers, for example with an alkali metal hydroxide. With regard to the details of production of these polymers, explicit reference is made to the contents of German published patent application 39 29 973. Very particularly preferred polymers are those in which monomers of type (a) are used, in which R 24 , R 25 and R 26 are methyl groups, Z is an NH group and A" is a halide, methoxysulfate or 19 H 07227 ethoxysulfate ion; acrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride is a particularly preferred monomer (a). Acrylic acid is preferably used as monomer (b) for the stated polymers. [0071] In a third variant, the agents according to the invention may furthermore contain nonionogenic polymers. [0072] Suitable nonionogenic polymers are for example: - vinylpyrrolidone/vinyl ester copolymers, as are distributed for example under the tradename Luviskol@ (BASF). Luviskol@ VA 64 and Luviskol@ VA 73, in each case vinylpyrrolidone/vinyl acetate copolymers, are likewise preferred nonionic polymers. - cellulose ethers, such as hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose and methylhydroxypropylcellulose, as are distributed for example under the tradename Culminal@ and Benecel@ (AQUALON). - shellac - polyvinylpyrrolidones, as are distributed for example under the tradename Luviskol@ (BASF). - siloxanes. These siloxanes may be either water-soluble or water insoluble. Both volatile and non-volatile siloxanes are suitable, wherein non-volatile siloxanes are taken to be those compounds whose boiling point at standard pressure is above 2000C. Preferred siloxanes are polydialkylsiloxanes, such as for example polydimethylsiloxane, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, such as for example polyphenylmethylsiloxane, ethoxylated polydialkylsiloxanes and polydialkylsiloxanes, which contain amine and/or hydroxy groups. - glycosidically substituted silicones according to EP 0612759 B1. [0073] It is also possible according to the invention for the preparations to contain a plurality of, in particular two different, identically charged polymers and/or in each case one ionic and one amphoteric and/or nonionic polymer. [0074] The term polymer should be taken according to the invention likewise to mean specific preparations of polymers such as spherical polymer powders. Various methods are known for producing such microspheres from various 20 H 07227 monomers, for example by special polymerization methods or by dissolving the polymers in a solvent and spraying into a medium in which the solvent can evaporate or diffuse out of the particles. Such a method is known, for example, from EP 466 986 B1. Suitable polymers are for example polycarbonates, polyurethanes, polyacrylates, polyolefins, polyesters or polyamides. Particularly suitable such spherical polymer powders are those having a primary particle diameter of less than 1 pm. Such products based on a polymethacrylate copolymer are, for example, commercially available under the trademark Polytrap@Q5-6603 (Dow Corning). Other polymer powders, for example based on polyamides (Nylon 6, Nylon 12), are obtainable with a particle size of 2 10 pm (90%) and a specific surface area of approx. 10 m 2 /g under the tradename Orgasol@ 2002 DU Nat Cos (Atochem S.A., Paris). Further polymer powders which are suitable for the purpose according to the invention are, for example, polymethacrylates (Micropearl M from SEPPIC or Plastic Powder A from NIKKOL), styrene-divinylbenzene copolymers (Plastic Powder FP from NIKKOL), polyethylene and polypropylene powders (ACCUREL EP 400 from AKZO) or also silicone polymers (Silicone Powder X2-1605 from Dow Corning) or also spherical cellulose powders. [0075] The polymers are contained in the agents according to the invention preferably in quantities of from 0.01 to 10 wt.%, relative to the total agent. Quantities of 0.05 to 5 wt.%, in particular of 0.1 to 3 wt.%, are particularly preferred. [0076] In a further preferred embodiment, the agents according to the invention contain surfactants. The term surfactants is taken to mean surface-active substances which bear an anionic or cationic charge in their molecule. Both an anionic and a cationic charge may likewise be present in the molecule. These zwitterionic or amphoteric surface-active substances may likewise be used according to the invention. The surface-active substances may furthermore also be nonionic. [0077] Anionic surfactants which are suitable in preparations according to the invention are any anionic surface-active substances suitable for use on the 21 H 07227 human body. These are characterized by an anionic water-solubilizing group such as for example a carboxylate, sulfate, sulfonate or phosphate group and a lipophilic alkyl group having some 8 to 30 C atoms. The molecule may additionally contain glycol or polyglycol ether groups, ester, ether and amide groups and hydroxyl groups. Examples of suitable anionic surfactants are, in each case in the form of sodium, potassium and ammonium and the mono-, di and trialkanolammonium salts having 2 to 4 C atoms in the alkanol group, - linear and branched fatty acids with 8 to 30 C atoms (soaps), - ether carboxylic acids of the formula R-O-(CH 2
-CH
2 0)x-CH 2 -COOH, in which R is a linear alkyl group having 8 to 30 C atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 16, - acyl sarcosides having 8 to 24 C atoms in the acyl group, - acyl taurides having 8 to 24 C atoms in the acyl group, - acyl isethionates having 8 to 24 C atoms in the acyl group, - sulfosuccinic acid mono- and dialkyl esters having 8 to 24 C atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic acid monoalkyl polyoxyethyl esters having 8 to 24 C atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups, - linear alkane sulfonates having 8 to 24 C atoms, - linear alpha-olefin sulfonates having 8 to 24 C atoms, - alpha-sulfofatty acid methyl esters of fatty acids having 8 to 30 C atoms, - alkyl sulfates and alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates of the formula
R-O(CH
2
-CH
2 0)x-OSO 3 H, in which R is a preferably linear alkyl group having 8 to 30 C atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 12, - mixtures of surface-active hydroxysulfonates according to DE-A-37 25 030, - sulfated hydroxyalkyl polyethylene and/or hydroxyalkylene propylene glycol ethers according to DE-A-37 23 354, - sulfonates of unsaturated fatty acids having 8 to 24 C atoms and 1 to 6 double bonds according to DE-A-39 26 344, - esters of tartaric acid and citric acid with alcohols, which are addition products of approx. 2-15 molecules of ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide onto fatty alcohols having 8 to 22 C atoms, - alkyl and/or alkenyl ether phosphates of the formula (TI), 22 H 07227 0 11
R
29 (OC2CHI2)n- 0 - P-OR 3 0 (TI) Ox in which R 29 preferably denotes an aliphatic hydrocarbon residue with 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R 30 denotes hydrogen, a residue (CH 2
CH
2 0)nR 29 or X, n denotes numbers from 1 to 10 and X denotes hydrogen, an alkali or alkaline earth metal or NR'R 32
R
33
R
34 , with R 31 to R34 mutually independently denoting hydrogen or a C, to C4 hydrocarbon residue, sulfated fatty acid alkylene glycol esters of the formula (Tll) R 3 CO(AlkO),SO 3 M (Tll) in which R 35 0- denotes a linear or branched, aliphatic, saturated and/or unsaturated acyl residue with 6 to 22 C atoms, Alk denotes
CH
2
CH
2 , CHCH 3
CH
2 and/or CH 2
CHCH
3 , n denotes numbers from 0.5 to 5 and M denotes a cation, as they are described in DE-OS 197 36 906.5, monoglyceride sulfates and monoglyceride ether sulfates of the formula (TIll), CH2O(CH2CH2O)x- COR 3 6 CIIO(CH2CHI20O)yH (Till) Cil 2O(CH]2CI2O)z - SO 3 X in which R 36 C0 denotes a linear or branched acyl residue having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, x, y and z in total denote 0 or denote numbers from 1 to 30, preferably 2 to 10, and X denotes an alkali or alkaline earth metal. Typical examples of monoglyceride (ether) sulfates suitable for the purposes of the invention are the reaction products of lauric acid monoglyceride, coconut fatty acid monoglyceride, palmitic acid monoglyceride, stearic acid monoglyceride, oleic acid monoglyceride and tallow fatty acid monoglyceride and the ethylene oxide addition products thereof with sulfur trioxide or chlorosulfonic acid in the form of the sodium salts thereof. Preferably, monoglyceride sulfates of the formula (Tlll) are used, in which R 36 CO denotes a linear acyl residue 23 H 07227 with 8 to 18 carbon atoms. Monoglyceride sulfates and monoglyceride ether sulfates are described for example in EP-B1 0 561 825, EP-B1 0 561 999, DE-Al 42 04 700 or by A.K. Biswas et al. in J. Am. Oil Chem. Soc. 37, 171 (1960) and F.U. Ahmed in J. Am. Oil Chem. Soc. 67, 8 (1990). [0078] Preferred anionic surfactants are alkyl sulfates, alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates and ether carboxylic acids having 10 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl group and up to 12 glycol ether groups per molecule, sulfosuccinic acid mono- and dialkyl esters having 8 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic acid monoalkyl polyoxyethyl esters having 8 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups. [0079] Those surface-active compounds which bear at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one -COO( or -SO3() group on each molecule are designated as zwitterionic surfactants. Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are "betaines" such as N-alkyl-N,N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoalkyldimethylammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl-N,N dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoacylaminopropyldimethylammonium glycinate, and 2-alkyl-3 carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethylimidazolines having in each case 8 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl or acyl group and cocoacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethyl glycinate. One preferred zwitterionic surfactant is the fatty acid amide derivative known by the INCI name Cocamidopropyl Betaine. [0080] Ampholytic surfactants are taken to mean those surface-active compounds which, in addition to a C8-C24 alkyl or acyl group, contain at least one free amino group and at least one -COOH or -SO 3 H group per molecule and are capable of forming internal salts. Examples of suitable ampholytic surfactants are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2 alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids having in each case 24 H 07227 approx. 8 to 24 C atoms in the alkyl group. Particularly preferred ampholytic surfactants are N-cocoalkyl aminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethyl aminopropionate and C12-18 acyl sarcosine. [0081] Nonionic surfactants contain as hydrophilic group for example a polyol group, a polyalkylene glycol ether group or a combination of a polyol group and polyglycol ether group. Such compounds are for example - addition products of 2 to 50 mol of ethylene oxide and/or 0 to 5 mol of propylene oxide onto linear and branched fatty alcohols having 8 to 30 C atoms, onto fatty acids having 8 to 30 C atoms and onto alkylphenols having 8 to 15 C atoms in the alkyl group, - addition products, end group-terminated with a methyl or C2-C6 alkyl residue, of 2 to 50 mol of ethylene oxide and/or 0 to 5 mol of propylene oxide onto linear and branched fatty alcohols having 8 to 30 C atoms, onto fatty acids having 8 to 30 C atoms and onto alkylphenols having 8 to 15 C atoms in the alkyl group, such as for example the grades obtainable under the commercial names Dehydol® LS, Dehydol@ LT (Cognis), - C 12
-C
30 fatty acid mono- and diesters of addition products of 1 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide onto glycerol, - addition products of 5 to 60 mol of ethylene oxide onto castor oil and hardened castor oil, - polyol fatty acid esters, such as for example the commercial product Hydagen@ HSP (Cognis) or Sovermol grades (Cognis), - alkoxylated triglycerides, - alkoxylated fatty acid alkyl esters of the formula R 3 7
CO
(OCH
2
CHR
38
),OR
39 , (IX), in which R 37 CO denotes a linear or branched, saturated and/or unsaturated acyl residue having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, R 3 8 denotes hydrogen or methyl, R 39 denotes linear or branched alkyl residues having 1 to 4 carbon atoms and w denotes numbers from 1 to 20, - amine oxides, 25 H 07227 - hydroxy mixed ethers, as are for example described in DE-OS 19738866, - sorbitan fatty acid esters and addition products of ethylene oxide onto sorbitan fatty acid esters such as for example polysorbates, - sugar fatty acid esters and addition products of ethylene oxide onto sugar fatty acid esters, - addition products of ethylene oxide onto fatty acid alkanolamides and fatty amines, - fatty acid N-alkylglucamides, - corresponding to the general formula RO-(Z)x wherein R denotes alkyl, Z denotes sugar and x denotes the number of sugar units. Alkylpolyglycosides usable according to the invention may for example contain only one specific alkyl residue R. Conventionally, however, these compounds are produced starting from natural fats and oils or mineral oils. In this case, alkyl residues R which are present are mixtures corresponding to the starting compounds or corresponding to the particular processing of these compounds. [0082] Particularly preferred such alkylpolyglycosides are those in which R - substantially consists of Ca and C1o alkyl groups, - substantially consists of C12 and C 14 alkyl groups, - substantially consists of C 8 to C 16 alkyl groups or - substantially consists of C12 to C16 alkyl groups or - substantially consists of C16 to C18 alkyl groups. [0083] Any desired mono- or oligosaccharides may be used as the sugar building block Z. Sugars having 5 or 6 carbon atoms and the corresponding oligosaccharides are conventionally used. Such sugars are for example glucose, fructose, galactose, arabinose, ribose, xylose, lyxose, allose, altrose, mannose, gulose, idose, talose and sucrose. Preferred sugar building blocks are glucose, fructose, galactose, arabinose and sucrose; glucose is particularly preferred. 26 H 07227 [0084] The alkylpolyglycosides according to the invention contain on average 1.1 to 5 sugar units. Alkylpolyglycosides with x values of 1.1 to 2.0 are preferred. Alkylglycosides in which x is 1.1 to 1.8 are very particularly preferred. [0085] The alkoxylated homologues of the stated alkylpolyglycosides may also be used according to the invention. These homologues may contain on average up to 10 ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide units per alkylglycoside unit. [0086] Preferred nonionic surfactants have proved to be alkylene oxide addition products onto saturated linear fatty alcohols and fatty acids with in each case 2 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide per mol of fatty alcohol or fatty acid respectively. Preparations having excellent properties are likewise obtained if they contain fatty acid esters of ethoxylated glycerol as the nonionic surfactants. [0087] These compounds are characterized by the following parameters. The alkyl residue R contains 6 to 22 carbon atoms and may be both linear and branched. Primary linear aliphatic residues and those methyl-branched in position 2 are preferred. Such alkyl residues are for example 1-octyl, 1-decyl, 1 lauryl, 1-myristyl, 1-cetyl and 1-stearyl. 1-Octyl, 1-decyl, 1-lauryl, 1-myristyl are particularly preferred. When "oxo alcohols" are used as starting materials, compounds having an uneven number of carbon atoms in the alkyl chain predominate. [0088] The compounds with alkyl groups used as surfactant may in each case comprise uniform substances. It is, however, generally preferred to start from native plant or animal raw materials when producing these substances, such that mixtures of substances having a differing alkyl chain length depending on the particular raw material are obtained. [0089] The surfactants which are addition products of ethylene and/or propylene oxide onto fatty alcohols or derivatives of these addition products may be used both as products with a "normal" homologue distribution and as products with a narrow homologue distribution. A "normal" homologue 27 H 07227 distribution is here taken to mean mixtures of homologues which are obtained on reacting fatty alcohol and alkylene oxide using alkali metals, alkali metal hydroxides or alkali metal alkoxides as catalysts. Narrow homologue distributions, in contrast, are obtained if hydrotalcite, alkaline earth metal salts of ether carboxylic acids, alkaline earth metal oxides, hydroxides or alkoxides are for example used as catalysts. It may be preferred to use products with a narrow homologue distribution. [0090] The surfactants are used in quantities of 0.1-45 wt.%, preferably of 0.5-30 wt.% and very particularly preferably of 1-15 wt.%, relative to the total agent. [0091] Cationic surfactants of the type including quaternary ammonium compounds, ester quats and the amidoamines may likewise be used according to the invention. Preferred quaternary ammonium compounds are ammonium halides, in particular chlorides and bromides, such as alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides and trialkylmethylammonium chlorides, for example cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylbenzylammonium chloride and tricetylmethylammonium chloride, and the imidazolium compounds known by the INCI names Quaternium-27 and Quaternium-83. The long alkyl chains of the above-stated surfactants preferably comprise 10 to 18 carbon atoms. [0092] Ester quats are known substances which contain both at least one ester function and at least one quaternary ammonium group as a structural element. Preferred ester quats are quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with triethanolamine, quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with diethanolalkylamines and quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with 1,2-dihydroxypropyldialkyl amines. Such products are sold, for example, under the trademarks Stepantex@, Dehyquart@ and Armocare@. The products Armocare@ VGH-70, an N,N-bis(2-palmitoyloxyethyl)dimethylammonium chloride, and Dehyquart@ F-75, Dehyquart@ C-4046, Dehyquart@ L80 and Dehyquart@ AU-35 are examples of such ester quats. 28 H 07227 [0093] The alkylamidoamines are conventionally produced by amidating natural or synthetic fatty acids and fatty acid cuts with dialkylaminoamines. One compound from this group of substances which is particularly suitable according to the invention is stearamidopropyldimethylamine which is commercially available under the name Tegoamid@ S 18. [0094] The cationic surfactants are contained in the agents according to the invention preferably in quantities of from 0.05 to 10 wt.%, relative to the total agent. Quantities of 0.1 to 5 wt.% are particularly preferred. [0095] In a further preferred embodiment of the invention, the action of the active ingredient combination according to the invention may be still further optimized by fatty substances. Fatty substances should be taken to mean fatty acids, fatty alcohols, natural and synthetic waxes, which may assume both solid form and liquid form in an aqueous dispersion, and natural and synthetic cosmetic oil components. [0096] Fatty acids which may be used are linear and/or branched, saturated and/or unsaturated fatty acids having 6-30 carbon atoms. Fatty acids having 10-22 carbon atoms are preferred. Such substances which may, for example, be mentioned are isostearic acid, such as the commercial products Emersol@ 871 and Emersol@ 875, and isopalmitic acids such as the commercial product Edenor@ IP 95, and any further fatty acids distributed under the trade name Edenor@ (Cognis). Further typical examples of such fatty acids are caproic acid, caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, elaeostearic acid, arachidic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid and erucic acid and the technical mixtures thereof which are obtained, for example, on pressure splitting of natural fats and oils, on oxidation of aldehydes from Roelen's oxo synthesis or on dimerization of unsaturated fatty acids. The fatty acid cuts obtainable from coconut oil or palm oil are conventionally particularly preferred; in general, it is particularly preferred to use stearic acid. 29 H 07227 [0097] The quantity used here amounts to 0.1-15 wt.%, relative to the total agent. In a preferred embodiment, the quantity amounts to 0.5-10 wt.%, with quantities of 1-5 wt.% being very particularly advantageous. [0098] Fatty alcohols which may be used are saturated, mono- or polyunsaturated, branched or unbranched fatty alcohols having C6-C30, preferably C 10
-C
2 2 and very particularly preferably C 12
-C
22 carbon atoms. For the purposes of the invention, it is for example possible to use decanol, octanol, octenol, dodecenol, decenol, octadienol, dodecadienol, decadienol, oleyl alcohol, erucic alcohol, ricinol alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, caprylic alcohol, capric alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol, and the Guerbet alcohols thereof, it being intended for this list to be of an exemplary rather than limiting nature. [0099] The fatty alcohols are, however, preferably derived from natural fatty acids, it conventionally being possible to start by isolation from the fatty acid esters by reduction. It is also possible to use according to the invention those fatty alcohol cuts which are produced by reducing naturally arising triglycerides such as beef fat, palm oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, soy oil, sunflower oil and linseed oil or fatty acids arising from the transesterification products thereof with corresponding alcohols, and thus constitute a mixture of different fatty alcohols. Such substances are commercially obtainable for example under the names Stenol®, for example Stenol 1618@ or Lanette@, for example Lanette@ 0 or Lorol@, for example Lorol® C8, Lorol@ C14, Lorol@ C18, Lorol@ C8-18, HD-Ocenol@, Crodacol@, for example Crodacol@ CS, Novol@, Eutanol@ G, Guerbitol@ 16, Guerbitol@ 18, Guerbitol@ 20, Isofol@ 12, Isofol® 16, Isofol® 24, Isofol@ 36, Isocarb@ 12, Isocarb@ 16 or Isocarb@ 24. Wool wax alcohols, as are for example commercially obtainable under the names Corona@, White Swan@, Coronet@ or Fluilan®, may of course also be used according to the invention. The fatty alcohols are used in quantities of 0.1-20 wt.%, relative to the entire preparation, preferably in quantities of 0.1-10 wt.%. 30 H 07227 [0100] Natural or synthetic waxes which may be used according to the invention are solid paraffins or isoparaffins, carnauba waxes, beeswaxes, candelilla waxes, ozokerites, ceresin, spermaceti, sunflower wax, fruit waxes such as for example apple wax or citrus wax, or PE or PP microwaxes. Such waxes are obtainable for example through Kahl & Co., Trittau. [0101] Examples of natural and synthetic cosmetic oil bodies capable of enhancing the action of the active ingredient according to the invention which may be mentioned are: - vegetable oils. Examples of such oils are sunflower oil, olive oil, soy oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, jojoba oil, orange oil, wheat germ oil, peach stone oil and the liquid fractions of coconut oil. However, other triglyceride oils such as the liquid fractions of beef fat together with synthetic triglyceride oils are also suitable. - liquid paraffin oils, isoparaffin oils and synthetic hydrocarbons. - ester oils. Ester oils should be taken to mean the esters of C 6
-C
30 fatty acids with C 2
-C
30 fatty alcohols. The monoesters of fatty acids with alcohols having 2 to 24 C atoms are preferred. Examples of fatty acid moieties used in the esters are caproic acid, caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, elaeostearic acid, arachidic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid and erucic acid and the technical mixtures thereof which are obtained, for example, on pressure splitting of natural fats and oils, on oxidation of aldehydes from Roelen's oxo synthesis or on dimerization of unsaturated fatty acids. Examples of fatty alcohol moieties in the ester oils are isopropyl alcohol, caproic alcohol, caprylic alcohol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, linolyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, elaeostearyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol and brassidyl alcohol and the technical mixtures thereof, 31 H 07227 which are obtained, for example, on high pressure hydrogenation of technical methyl esters based on fats and oils or aldehydes from Roelen's oxo synthesis and as the monomer fraction on dimerization of unsaturated fatty alcohols. Particularly preferred substances according to the invention are isopropyl myristate (Rilanit@ IPM), isononanoic acid C16-18 alkyl ester (Cetiol@ SN), 2-ethylhexyl palmitate (Cegesoft@ 24), stearic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester (Cetiol@ 868), cetyl oleate, glycerol tricaprylate, coconut fatty alcohol caprinate/caprylate (Cetiol@ LC), n butyl stearate, oleyl erucate (Cetiol@ J 600), isopropyl palmitate (Rilanit@ IPP), oleyl oleate (Cetiol@), lauric acid hexyl ester (Cetiol@ A), di-n-butyl adipate (Cetiol@ B), myristyl myristate (Cetiol@ mm), cetearyl isononanoate (Cetiol@ SN), oleic acid decyl ester (Cetiol@ V). - dicarboxylic acid esters such as di-n-butyl adipate, di-(2-ethylhexyl) adipate, di-(2-ethylhexyl) succinate and diisotridecyl acelate and diol esters such as ethylene glycol dioleate, ethylene glycol diisotridecanoate, propylene glycol di-(2-ethylhexanoate), propylene glycol diisostearate, propylene glycol dipelargonate, butanediol diisostearate, neopentyl glycol dicaprylate, - symmetrical, asymmetrical or cyclic esters of carbonic acid with fatty alcohols, for example described in DE-OS 197 56 454, glycerol carbonate or dicaprylyl carbonate (Cetiol@ CC), - mono-, di- and trifatty acid esters of saturated and/or unsaturated linear and/or branched fatty acids with glycerol, such as for example Monomuls@ 90-018, Monomuls@ 90-L12 or Cutina@ MD. [0102] The quantity used here amounts to 0.1-50 wt.%, relative to the total agent, 0.1-20 wt.% being preferred and 0.1-15 wt.% particularly preferred. [0103] The total quantity of oil and fat components in the agents according to the invention conventionally amounts to 6-45 wt.%, relative to the total agent. Quantities of 10-35 wt.% are preferred according to the invention. [0104] It has furthermore been found that the action of the active ingredient combination according to the invention may be enhanced if it is combined with 32 H 07227 hydroxycarboxylic acid esters. Preferred hydroxycarboxylic acid esters are full esters of glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, tartaric acid or citric acid. Further hydroxycarboxylic acid esters which are suitable in principle are esters of p-hydroxypropionic acid, tartronic acid, D-gluconic acid, saccharic acid, mucic acid or glucuronic acid. Suitable alcohol components of these esters are primary, linear or branched aliphatic alcohols having 8-22 C atoms, thus for example fatty alcohols or synthetic fatty alcohols. The esters of C 12 -C1 5 fatty alcohols are here particularly preferred. Esters of this type are commercially available, for example under the trademark Cosmacol@ from EniChem, Augusta Industriale. The quantity of hydroxycarboxylic acid ester used here amounts to 0.1-15 wt.% relative to the agent, preferably 0.1-10 wt.% and very particularly preferably 0.1-5 wt.%. [0105] Combining the active ingredient combination with vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors and the derivatives thereof has likewise proved advantageous. [0106] Preferred vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors according to the invention are those which are conventionally assigned to groups A, B, C, E, F and H. (0107] The group of substances designated vitamin A includes retinol (vitamin
A
1 ) and 3,4-didehydroretinol (vitamin A 2 ). @-Carotene is the provitamin of retinol. Examples of substances which may be considered according the invention as the vitamin A component are vitamin A acid and the esters thereof, vitamin A aldehyde and vitamin A alcohol and the esters thereof such as the palmitate and the acetate. The agents according to the invention preferably contain the vitamin A component in quantities of from 0.05-1 wt.%, relative to the entire preparation. [0108] The vitamin B group or the vitamin B complex includes, inter alia - Vitamin B 1 (thiamin) - Vitamin B 2 (riboflavine) - Vitamin B 3 . This designation is frequently used for the compounds nicotinic acid and nicotinamide (niacinamide). Nicotinamide is preferred 33 H 07227 according to the invention and is preferably contained in the agents according to the invention in quantities of from 0.05 to 1 wt.%, relative to the total agent. Vitamin B 5 (pantothenic acid and panthenol). In the context of this group, panthenol is preferably used. Derivatives of panthenol which may be used according to the invention are in particular the esters and ethers of panthenol and cationically derivatized panthenols. Individual representatives are for example panthenol triacetate, the panthenol monoethyl ether and the monoacetate thereof and the panthenol derivatives disclosed in WO 92/13829. The stated compounds of the vitamin B 5 type are contained in the agents according to the invention preferably in quantities of from 0.05-10 wt.%, relative to the total agent. Quantities of 0.1-5 wt.% are particularly preferred. - Vitamin B 6 (pyridoxine as well as pyridoxamine and pyridoxal). [0109] Vitamin C (ascorbic acid). Vitamin C is preferably used in the agents according to the invention in quantities of from 0.1 to 3 wt.%, relative to the total agent. Use in the form of the palmitic acid ester, the glucosides or phosphates may be preferred. Use in combination with tocopherols may likewise be preferred. [0110] Vitamin E (tocopherols, in particular a-tocopherol). Tocopherol and the derivatives thereof, which include in particular the esters such as the acetate, the nicotinate, the phosphate and the succinate, are preferably contained in the agents according to the invention in quantities of from 0.05-1 wt.%, relative to the total agent. [0111] Vitamin F. The term "vitamin F" is conventionally understood to mean essential fatty acids, in particular linoleic acid, linolenic acid and arachidonic acid. [0112] Vitamin H. Vitamin H denotes the compound (3aS,4S,6aR)-2 oxohexahydrothienol[3,4-d]-imidazole-4-valeric acid, which is now, however, known by the common name biotin. Biotin is contained in the agents according 34 H 07227 to the invention preferably in quantities of from 0.0001 to 1.0 wt.%, in particular in quantities of from 0.001 to 0.01 wt.%. [0113] The agents according to the invention preferably contain vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors from groups A, B, E and H. [0114] Panthenol and the derivatives thereof together with nicotinamide and biotin are particularly preferred. [0115] One very particularly preferred group of further active ingredients are the silicone oils (S). They are accordingly particularly preferably used in the compositions according to the invention. Silicone oils bring about the most varied effects. For example, they simultaneously have an influence both on the feel of dry and wet skin and on its sheen, the skin generally being described as pleasantly silky and not exhibiting an unpleasantly greasy sheen. When used in addition to the active ingredient combination according to the invention, the advantages of the active ingredient combination according to the invention and the silicone oils complement one another excellently. It is therefore very particularly preferred to use silicone oils together with* the active ingredient combination according to the invention. The term silicone oils is understood by the person skilled in the art to mean a plurality of organosilicon compounds of different structures. The first among these are the dimethiconols (Si). Dimethiconols form the first group of silicones which are particularly preferred according to the invention. The dimethiconols according to the invention may be both linear and branched and cyclic or cyclic and branched. Linear dimethiconols may be illustrated by the following structural formula (S1-I): (SiOHR 2 ) - 0 - (SiR 2 2 - 0 - - (SiOHR' 2 ) (SI - 1) 35 H 07227 [0116] Branched dimethiconols may be illustrated by the structural formula (Si-11): R2 (SiOHR'2) - 0 - (SiR22 - O -4, - Si - O - (SiR 22 - O - ), - (S iOHR'2) (SiR 2 2 -O - )- (SiOHR',) [0117] The residues R 1 and R 2 mutually independently denote in each case hydrogen, a methyl residue, a C2 to C30 linear, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon residue, a phenyl residue and/or an aryl residue. Non-limiting examples of the residues represented by R 1 and R 2 include alkyl residues, such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, pentyl, isopentyl, neopentyl, amyl, isoamyl, hexyl, isohexyl and the like; alkenyl residues, such as vinyl, halovinyl, alkylvinyl, allyl, haloallyl, alkylallyl; cycloalkyl residues, such as cyclobutyl, cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl and the like; phenyl residues, benzyl residues, halogenated hydrocarbon residues, such as 3-chloropropyl, 4-bromobutyl, 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl, chlorocyclohexyl, bromophenyl, chlorophenyl and the like and sulfur-containing residues, such as mercaptoethyl, mercaptopropyl, mercaptohexyl, mercaptophenyl and the like;
R
1 and R 2 are preferably an alkyl residue containing 1 to approx. 6 carbon atoms, and R 1 and R 2 are most preferably methyl. Examples of R 1 include methylene, ethylene, propylene, hexamethylene, decamethylene,
-CH
2
CH(CH
3
)CH
2 -, phenylene, naphthylene, -CH 2
CH
2
SCH
2
CH
2 -,
-CH
2
CH
2 0CH 2 -, -OCH 2
CH
2 -, -OCH 2
CH
2
CH
2 -, -CH 2
CH(CH
3
)C(O)OCH
2 -,
-(CH
2
)
3
CC(O)OCH
2
CH
2 -, -C 6
H
4
C
6
H
4 -, -C 6
H
4
CH
2
C
6
H
4 -; and (CH 2
)
3
C(O)SCH
2
CH
2 -. R 1 and R 2 are preferably methyl, phenyl and C 2 to C22 alkyl residues. The C2 to C22 alkyl residues are very particularly preferably lauryl, stearyl and behenyl residues. The numbers x, y and z are integers and run in each case mutually independently from 0 to 50000. The molar weights of the dimethicones are between 1000 D and 10000000 D. Viscosities are between 100 and 10000000 cPs measured at 250C with the assistance of a glass capillary viscometer using the Dow Corning Corporate Test Method CTM 0004 of 20th July 1970. Preferred viscosities are between 1000 and 5000000 36 H 07227 cPs, very particularly preferred viscosities are between 10000 and 3000000 cPs. The most preferred range is between 50000 and 2000000 cPs. [0118] Of course, the teaching according to the invention also provides that the dimethiconols may already be present as an emulsion. In this case, the corresponding dimethiconol emulsion may be produced both after the production of the corresponding dimethiconols from the latter and using the conventional methods of emulsification known to a person skilled in the art. To this end, any of cationic, anionic, nonionic or zwitterionic surfactants and emulsifiers may be used as auxiliary materials for producing the corresponding emulsions. It goes without saying that the dimethiconol emulsions may also be produced directly by an emulsion polymerization method. Such methods are also well known to a person skilled in the art. In this respect, reference is made for example to the "Encyclopedia of Polymer Science and Engineering", Volume 15, Second Edition, pages 204 to 308, John Wiley & Sons., Inc. 1989. Reference is explicitly made to this standard work. If the dimethiconols according to the invention are used in the form of an emulsion, the droplet size of the emulsified particles then amounts according to the invention to 0.01 pm to 10000 pm, preferably 0.01 to 100 pm, very particularly preferably 0.01 to 20 pm and most preferably 0.01 to 10 pm. Particle size is here determined using the light scattering method. If branched dimethiconols are used, it should be understood that the branching is greater in this case than the chance branching which arises due to impurities in the respective monomers. For the purposes of the present compound, branched dimethiconols should therefore be taken to mean that the degree of branching is greater than 0.01%. Preferably, the degree of branching is greater than 0.1% and very particularly preferably greater than 0.5%. The degree of branching is determined in this case from the ratio of unbranched monomers, i.e. the quantity of monofunctional siloxane, to the branched monomers, i.e. the quantity of tri- and tetrafunctional siloxanes. According to the invention, dimethiconols with both a low and a high degree of branching may be very particularly preferred. 37 H 07227 [0119] The following commercial products can be mentioned as examples of such products: Botanisil NU-150M (Botanigenics), Dow Corning 1-1254 Fluid, Dow Corning 2-9023 Fluid, Dow Corning 2-9026 Fluid, Ultrapure Dimethiconol (Ultra Chemical), Unisil SF-R (Universal Preserve), X-21-5619 (Shin-Etsu Chemical Co.), Abil OSW 5 (Degussa Care Specialties), ACC DL-9430 Emulsion (Taylor Chemical Company), AEC Dimethiconol & Sodium Dodecylbenzenesulfonate (A & E Connock (Perfumery & Cosmetics, Ltd.), B C Dimethiconol Emulsion 95 (Basildon Chemical Company, Ltd.), Cosmetic Fluid 1401, Cosmetic Fluid 1403, Cosmetic Fluid 1501, Cosmetic Fluid 1401DC (all above-stated from Chemsil Silicones, Inc.), Dow Corning 1401 Fluid, Dow Corning 1403 Fluid, Dow Corning 1501 Fluid, Dow Corning 1784 HVF Emulsion, Dow Corning 9546 Silicone Elastomer Blend (all above-stated from Dow Corning Corporation), Dub Gel SI 1400 (Stearinerie Dubois Fils), HVM 4852 Emulsion (Crompton Corporation), Jeesilc 6056 (Jeen International Corporation), Lubrasil, Lubrasil DS (both from Guardian Laboratories), Nonychosine E, Nonychosine V (both from Exsymol), SanSurf Petrolatum-25, Satin Finish (both from Collaborative Laboratories, Inc.), Silatex-D30 (Cosmetic Ingredient Resources), Silsoft 148, Silsoft E-50, Silsoft E-623 (all above-stated from Crompton Corporation), SM555, SM2725, SM2765, SM2785 (all above stated from GE Silicones), Taylor T-Sil CD-1, Taylor TME-4050E (all from Taylor Chemical Company), TH V 148 (Crompton Corporation), Tixogel CYD 1429 (Sud-Chemie Performance Additives), Wacker-Belsil CM 1000, Wacker Belsil CM 3092, Wacker-Belsil CM 5040, Wacker-Belsil DM 3096, Wacker Belsil DM 3112 VP, Wacker-Belsil DM 8005 VP, Wacker-Belsil DM 60081 VP (all above-stated from Wacker-Chemie GmbH). [0120] If the dimethiconols (Si) are contained in the composition, these compositions contain 0.01 to 1Owt.%, preferably 0.1 to 8wt.%, particularly preferably 0.25 to 7.5 wt.% and in particular 0.5 to 5 wt.% of dimethiconol relative to the composition. [0121] Dimethicones (S2) form the second group of silicones which are particularly preferred according to the invention. The dimethicones according to the invention may be both linear and branched and cyclic or cyclic and 38 H 07227 branched. Linear dimethicones may be illustrated by the following structural formula (S2-l): (SiR',) - O - (SiR 2 2 - O- )-(SiR' 3 ) (S2-1) [0122] Branched dimethicones may be illustrated by the structural formula (S2-II):
R
2 (SiR',) - O - (SiR2 - - . Si - O - (SiR22 - - , (SiR'3) 0 - (SiR 2 2 - 0- ) - (SiR' 3 ) [0123] The residues R' and R 2 mutually independently denote in each case hydrogen, a methyl residue, a C 2 to C 30 linear, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon residue, a phenyl residue and/or an aryl residue. Non-limiting examples of the residues represented by R 1 and R 2 include alkyl residues, such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, pentyl, isopentyl, neopentyl, amyl, isoamyl, hexyl, isohexyl and the like; alkenyl residues, such as vinyl, halovinyl, alkylvinyl, allyl, haloallyl, alkylallyl; cycloalkyl residues, such as cyclobutyl, cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl and the like; phenyl residues, benzyl residues, halogenated hydrocarbon residues, such as 3-chloropropyl, 4-bromobutyl, 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl, chlorocyclohexyl, bromophenyl, chlorophenyl and the like and sulfur-containing residues, such as mercaptoethyl, mercaptopropyl, mercaptohexyl, mercaptophenyl and the like; R1 and R 2 are preferably an alkyl residue containing 1 to approx. 6 carbon atoms, and R 1 and R 2 are most preferably methyl. -Examples of R 1 include methylene, ethylene, propylene, hexamethylene, decamethylene,
-CH
2
CH(CH
3
)CH
2 -, phenylene, naphthylene, -CH 2
CH
2
SCH
2
CH
2 -,
-CH
2
CH
2 0CH 2 -, -OCH 2
CH
2 -, -OCH 2
CH
2
CH
2 -, -CH 2
CH(CH
3
)C(O)OCH
2 -,
-(CH
2
)
3
CC(O)OCH
2
CH
2 -, -C 6
H
4
C
6
H
4 -, -C 6
H
4
CH
2 CrH 4 -; and (CH 2
)
3
C(O)SCH
2
CH
2 -. R 1 and R 2 are preferably methyl, phenyl and C2 to C22 alkyl residues. The C 2 to C22 alkyl residues are very particularly preferably lauryl, stearyl and behenyl residues. The numbers x, y and z are integers and run in each case mutually independently from 0 to 50000. The molar weights of 39 H 07227 the dimethicones are between 1000 D and 10000000 D. Viscosities are between 100 and 10000000 cPs measured at 25*C with the assistance of a glass capillary viscometer using the Dow Corning Corporate Test Method CTM 0004 of 20th July 1970. Preferred viscosities are between 1000 and 5000000 cPs, very particularly preferred viscosities are between 10000 and 3000000 cPs. The most preferred range is between 50000 and 2000000 cPs. [0124] Of course, the teaching according to the invention also provides that the dimethicones may already be present as an emulsion. In this case, the corresponding dimethicone emulsion may be produced both after the production of the corresponding dimethicones from the latter and using the conventional methods of emulsification known to a person skilled in the art. To this end, any of cationic, anionic, nonionic or zwitterionic surfactants and emulsifiers may be used as auxiliary materials for producing the corresponding emulsions. It goes without saying that the dimethicone emulsions may also be produced directly by an emulsion polymerization method. Such methods are also well known to a person skilled in the art. In this respect, reference is made for example to the "Encyclopedia of Polymer Science and Engineering", Volume 15, Second Edition, pages 204 to 308, John Wiley & Sons., Inc. 1989. Reference is explicitly made to this standard work. If the dimethicones according to the invention are used in the form of an emulsion, the droplet size of the emulsified particles then amounts according to the invention to 0.01 pm to 10000 pm, preferably 0.01 to 100 pm, very particularly preferably 0.01 to 20 pm and most preferably 0.01 to 10 pm. Particle size is here determined using the light scattering method. If branched dimethicones are used, it should be understood that the branching is greater in this case than the chance branching which arises due to impurities in the respective monomers. For the purposes of the present compound, branched dimethicones should therefore be taken to mean that the degree of branching is greater than 0.01%. Preferably, the degree of branching is greater than 0.1% and very particularly preferably greater than 0.5%. The degree of branching is determined in this case from the ratio of unbranched monomers, i.e. the quantity of monofunctional siloxane, to the branched monomers, i.e. the 40 H 07227 quantity of tri- and tetrafunctional siloxanes. According to the invention, dimethicones with both a low and a high degree of branching may be very particularly preferred. [0125] If the dimethicones (S2) are contained in the composition according to the invention, these compositions contain 0.01 to 10 wt.%, preferably 0.1 to 8 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.25 to 7.5 wt.% and in particular 0.5 to 5 wt.% of dimethiconol relative to the composition. [0126] Dimethicone copolyols (S3) form a further group of preferred silicones. Dimethiconols may be illustrated by the following structural formula: (SiR',) - 0 - (SiR 2 2 -0 - (SiRPE - 0 -)y - (SiR' 3 ) (S3 - 1) or by the following structural formula: PE - (SiR' 2 ) - 0 - (SiR 2 2 - 0 -), -(SiR' 2 ) - PE (S3 - II) [0127] Branched dimethicone copolyols may be illustrated by the structural formula (S3-111):
R
2 PE - (SiR'2) - O - (SiR 2_ O-._ Si - O - (SiR22- O - )y - (SiR'2) - PE (S3 -111) (SiR 2 2 -0 - - (SiR' 2 ) - PE or by the structural formula (S3-IV):
R
2 (SiR'3) - 0 - (SiR22 - O- ) - Si - O- (SiR2 PE - O0 - (SiR',) (S3 - IV) (SiR 2 2 - 0 - - (SiR' 3 ) [0128] The residues R 1 and R 2 mutually independently denote in each case hydrogen, a methyl residue, a C 2 to C 3 0 linear, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon residue, a phenyl residue and/or an aryl residue. Non-limiting examples of the residues represented by R 1 and R 2 include alkyl residues, such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, pentyl, isopentyl, 41 H 07227 neopentyl, amyl, isoamyl, hexyl, isohexyl and the like; alkenyl residues, such as vinyl, halovinyl, alkylvinyl, allyl, haloallyl, alkylallyl; cycloalkyl residues, such as cyclobutyl, cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl and the like; phenyl residues, benzyl residues, halogenated hydrocarbon residues, such as 3-chloropropyl, 4-bromobutyl, 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl, chlorocyclohexyl, bromophenyl, chlorophenyl and the like and sulfur-containing residues, such as mercaptoethyl, mercaptopropyl, mercaptohexyl, mercaptophenyl and the like;
R
1 and R 2 are preferably an alkyl residue containing 1 to approx. 6 carbon atoms, and R 1 and R 2 are most preferably methyl. Examples of R 1 include methylene, ethylene, propylene, hexamethylene, decamethylene,
-CH
2
CH(CH
3
)CH
2 -, phenylene, naphthylene, -CH 2
CH
2
SCH
2
CH
2 -,
-CH
2
CH
2 0CH 2 -, -OCH 2
CH
2 -, -OCH 2
CH
2
CH
2 -, -CH 2
CH(CH
3
)C(O)OCH
2 -,
-(CH
2
)
3
CC(O)OCH
2
CH
2 -, -C 6
H
4
C
6
H
4 -, -CeH 4
CH
2
C
6
H
4 -; and
-(CH
2
)
3
C(O)SCH
2
CH
2 -. R 1 and R 2 are preferably methyl, phenyl and C 2 to C 22 alkyl residues. The C 2 to C 22 alkyl residues are very particularly preferably lauryl, stearyl and behenyl residues. PE denotes a polyoxyalkylene residue. Preferred polyoxyalkylene residues are derived from ethylene oxide, propylene oxide and glycerol. The numbers x, y and z are integers and run in each case mutually independently from 0 to 50000. The molar weights of the dimethicones are between 1000 D and 10000000 D. Viscosities are between 100 and 10000000 cPs measured at 25*C with the assistance of a glass capillary viscometer using the Dow Corning Corporate Test Method CTM 0004 of 20th July 1970. Preferred viscosities are between 1000 and 5000000 cPs, very particularly preferred viscosities are between 10000 and 3000000 cPs. The most preferred range is between 50000 and 2000000 cPs. [0129] Of course, the teaching according to the invention also provides that the dimethicone copolymers may already be present as an emulsion. In this case, the corresponding dimethicone copolyol emulsion may be produced both after the production of the corresponding dimethicone copolyols from the latter and using the conventional methods of emulsification known to a person skilled in the art. To this end, any of cationic, anionic, nonionic or zwitterionic surfactants and emulsifiers may be used as auxiliary materials for producing the 42 H 07227 corresponding emulsions. It goes without saying that the dimethicone copolyol emulsions may also be produced directly by an emulsion polymerization method. Such methods are also well known to a person skilled in the art. In this respect, reference is made for example to the "Encyclopedia of Polymer Science and Engineering", Volume 15, Second Edition, pages 204 to 308, John Wiley & Sons., Inc. 1989. Reference is explicitly made to this standard work. [0130] If the dimethicone copolyols according to the invention are used in the form of an emulsion, the droplet size of the emulsified particles then amounts according to the invention to 0.01 pm to 10000 pm, preferably 0.01 to 100 pm, very particularly preferably 0.01 to 20 pm and most preferably 0.01 to 10 pm. Particle size is here determined using the light scattering method. If branched dimethicone copolyols are used, it should be understood that the branching is greater in this case than the chance branching which arises due to impurities in the respective monomers. For the purposes of the present compound, branched dimethicone copolyols should therefore be taken to mean that the degree of branching is greater than 0.01%. Preferably, the degree of branching is greater than 0.1% and very particularly preferably greater than 0.5%. The degree of branching is determined in this case from the ratio of unbranched monomers, i.e. the quantity of monofunctional siloxane, to the branched monomers, i.e. the quantity of tri- and tetrafunctional siloxanes. According to the invention, dimethicone copolyols with both a low and a high degree of branching may be very particularly preferred. [0131] If the dimethicone copolyols (S3) are contained in the composition, these compositions contain 0.01 to 10 wt.%, preferably 0.1 to 8 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.25 to 7.5 wt.% and in particular 0.5 to 5 wt.% of dimethicone copolyol relative to the composition. [0132] Amino-functional silicones or amodimethicones (S4) are silicones which comprise at least one (optionally substituted) amino group. 43 H 07227 [0133] Such silicones may, for example, be described by the formula (S4-1) M(R.QbSiOs.a.n(RSiOsw2M (S4 - 1) wherein in the above formula R is a hydrocarbon or a hydrocarbon residue with 1 to approx. 6 carbon atoms, Q is a polar residue of the general formula -R'HZ, in which R 1 is a divalent linking group, which is attached to hydrogen and the residue Z, composed of carbon and hydrogen atoms, carbon, hydrogen and oxygen atoms or carbon, hydrogen and nitrogen atoms, and Z is an organic, amino-functional residue, which contains at least one amino-functional group; "a" assumes values in the range from approx. 0 to approx. 2, "b" assumes values in the range from approx. 1 to approx. 3, "a" + "b" is less than or equal to 3, and "c" is a number in the range from approx. 1 to approx. 3, and x is a number in the range from 1 to approx. 2000, preferably from approx. 3 to approx. 50 and most preferably from approx. 3 to approx. 25, and y is a number in the range from approx. 20 to approx. 10000, preferably from approx. 125 to approx. 10000 and most preferably from approx. 150 to approx. 1000, and M is a suitable silicone end group, as known in the prior art, preferably trimethylsiloxy. Non-limiting examples of the residues represented by R include alkyl residues, such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, amyl, isoamyl, hexyl, isohexyl and the like; alkenyl residues, such as vinyl, halovinyl, alkylvinyl, allyl, haloallyl, alkylallyl; cycloalkyl residues, such as cyclobutyl, cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl and the like; phenyl residues, benzyl residues, halogenated hydrocarbon residues, such as 3-chloropropyl, 4-bromobutyl, 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl, chlorocyclohexyl, bromophenyl, chlorophenyl and the like and sulfur-containing residues, such as mercaptoethyl, mercaptopropyl, mercaptohexyl, mercaptophenyl and the like; R is preferably an alkyl residue containing 1 to approx. 6 carbon atoms, and R is most preferably methyl. Examples of R 1 include methylene, ethylene, propylene, hexamethylene, decamethylene, -CH 2
CH(CH
3
)CH
2 -, phenylene, naphthylene, -CH 2
CH
2
SCH
2
CH
2 -, -CH 2
CH
2 0CH 2 -, -OCH 2
CH
2 -,
-OCH
2
CH
2
CH
2 -, -CH 2
CH(CH
3
)C(O)OCH
2 -, -(CH 2
)
3
CC(O)OCH
2
CH
2 -,
-C
6
H
4
C
6
H
4 -, -C 6
H
4
CH
2
C
6
H
4 -; and -(CH 2
)
3
C(O)SCH
2
CH
2 -. 44 H 07227 [0134] Z is an organic, amino-functional residue containing at least one functional amino group. A possible formula for Z is NH(CH 2 )zNH 2 , in which z is 1 or more. Another possible formula for Z is -NH(CH 2 )z(CH 2 )zNH, in which both z and zz are mutually independently an integer greater than or equal to 1, this structure comprising diamino ring structures, such as piperazinyl. Z is most preferably an -NHCH 2
CH
2
NH
2 residue. Another possible formula for said Z is
-N(CH
2 )z(CH 2 )zzNX 2 or -NX 2 , in which each X of X 2 is independently selected from the group consisting of hydrogen and alkyl groups having 1 to 12 carbon atoms, and zz is 0. [0135] Q is most preferably a polar, amino-functional residue of the formula
CH
2
CH
2
CH
2
NHCH
2
CH
2
NH
2 . In the formulae, "a" assumes values in the range from 0 to approx. 2, "b" assumes values in the range from approx. 2 to approx. 3, "a" + "b" is less than or equal to 3, and "c" is a number in the range from approx. 1 to approx. 3. The molar ratio of the RaQb SiO(4-a-b)/2 units to the RcSiO( 4 -c)/ 2 units is in the range from approx. 1:2 to 1:65, preferably from approx. 1:5 to approx. 1:65 and most preferably from approx. 1:15 to approx. 1:20. If one or more silicones of the above formula are used, then the various variable substituents in the above formula may be different in the various silicone components which are present in the silicone mixture. [0136] Preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain an amino-functional silicone of the formula (S4-II) R'aGa.-Si(OSiG 2 )n-(OSiG bR'2. b)m-O-SiGa.-R', (S4 - I), in which: - G is -H, a phenyl group, -OH, -0-CH 3 , -CH 3 , -CH 2
CH
3 ,
-CH
2
CH
2
CH
3 , -CH(CH 3
)
2 , -CH 2
CH
2
CH
2
H
3 , -CH 2
CH(CH
3
)
2 ,
-CH(CH
3
)CH
2
CH
3 , -C(CH 3
)
3 ; - a denotes a number between 0 and 3, in particular 0; - b denotes a number between 0 and 1, in particular 1, - m and n are numbers, the sum of which (m + n) amounts to between 1 and 2000, preferably between 50 and 150, with n preferably assuming values from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 45 H 07227 49 to 149 and m preferably assuming values from 1 to 2000, in particular from 1 to 10, - R' is a monovalent residue selected from o -N(R")-CH2-CH2-N(R"I)2 0 -N(R")2 0 -N*(R")3A 0 -N*H(R")2 A o -N*H2(R")A - ,0 -N(R")-CH2-CH2-N*R"H2A~, each R" denoting identical or different residues from the group -H, -phenyl, -benzyl, Cl-20 alkyl residues, preferably -CH3, -CH2CH3, -CH2CH2CH3, -CH(CH3)2, -CH2CH2CH2H3, -CH2CH(CH3)2, -CH(CH3)CH2CH3, -C(CH3)3, and A represents an anion which is preferably selected from chloride, bromide, iodide or methosulfate. [0137] Particularly preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain an amino-functional silicone of the formula (S4-1ll) (C H3)3Si-[O-Si(C H3) 1c[OSi(C H3)21,m-OSi(CH3 (S4 -Ill). CH2CH(CH3)CH2NH(CH2)2NH2 in which m and n are numbers, the sum of which (m + n) amounts to between 1 and 2000, preferably between 50 and 150, with n preferably assuming values from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and m preferably assuming values from 1 to 2000, in particular from 1 to 10. [0138] These silicones are denoted in accordance with the INCI Declaration as trimethylsi lyla mod imeth icones. 46 H 07227 [0139] Particularly preferred agents according to the invention are also those which are characterized in that they contain an amino-functional silicone of the formula (S4-IV) R-[Si(CH 3
)
2 O0n,[Si(R)-O]n{Si(CH 3
)
2 ]n 2 -R (S4 - IV),
(CH
2
)
3
NH(CH
2
)
2
NH
2 in which R denotes -OH, -O-CH 3 or a -CH 3 group and m, n1 and n2 are numbers the sum of which (m + n1 + n2) amounts to between 1 and 2000, preferably between 50 and 150, the sum (n1 + n2) preferably assuming values from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and m preferably assuming values from 1 to 2000, in particular from 1 to 10. [01401 These silicones are denoted in accordance with the INCI Declaration as amodimethicones. [0141] Irrespective of which amino-functional silicones are used, agents preferred according to the invention are those in which the amino-functional silicone has an amine value which is above 0.25 meq/g, preferably above 0.3 meq/g and in particular above 0.4 meq/g. The amine value here denotes the milliequivalents of amine per gram of the amino-functional silicone. It can be. determined by titration and may also be stated in the unit mg of KOH/g. [0142] If the amodimethicones (S4) are contained in the composition, these compositions contain 0.01 to 10 wt.%, preferably 0.1 to 8 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.25 to 7.5 wt.% and in particular 0.5 to 5 wt.% of amodimethicone relative to the composition. [0143] It goes without saying that the invention also comprises the recognition that a mixture of at least 2 different silicones may be used in the compositions according to the invention. Preferred mixtures of different silicones are for example dimethicones and dimethiconols, linear dimethicones and cyclic dimethiconols. Very particularly preferred mixtures of silicones contain at least one cyclic dimethiconol and/or at least one dimethicone, at least one further non-cyclic dimethicone and/or at least one further dimethiconol. The most 47 H 07227 preferred mixtures contain at least one amino-functional silicone and at least one of the above-described mixtures. If different silicones are used as a mixture, the mixing ratio is extensively variable. However, all the silicones used for the mixture are preferably used in a ratio of from 5:1 to 1:5 in the case of a binary mixture. A ratio of 3:1 to 1:3 is particularly preferable. Very particularly preferred mixtures contain all the silicones contained in the mixture very largely in a ratio of approx. 1:1, in each case relative to the quantities used in wt.%. [0144] If silicon mixtures are contained in the composition, these compositions contain 0.01 to 10 wt.%, preferably 0.1 to 8 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.25 to 7.5 wt.% and in particular 0.5 to 5 wt.% of silicone mixture relative to the composition. [0145] A UV filter (1) may furthermore be used in a preferred embodiment of the invention. UV filters to be used according to the invention are not subject to any general restrictions with regard to structure and physical properties. Rather, any UV filters usable in the field of cosmetics whose absorption maximum is in the UVA (315-400 nm), the UVB (280-315 nm) or the UVC (<280 nm) range are suitable. UV filters with an absorption maximum in the UVB range, in particular in the range from approx. 280 to approx. 300 nm, are particularly preferred. [0146] The UV filters serve, on the one hand, to protect the product, preventing bleaching of the colored phases of the shaped articles, for example. At the same time, however, the UV protective filters also serve to protect the washed skin. In particular, use in conjunction with polymers ensures elevated deposition of UV filters onto the skin during washing. As a consequence, an elevated quantity also remains on the skin after rinsing and so gives rise to an enhanced action. [0147] The UV filters may for example be selected from substituted benzophenones, p-aminobenzoic acid esters, diphenylacrylic acid esters, cinnamic acid esters, salicylic acid esters, benzimidazoles and o-aminobenzoic acid esters. 48 H 07227 [0148] Examples of UV filters usable according to the invention are 4 aminobenzoic acid, N,N,N-trimethyl-4-(2-oxoborn-3-ylidenemethyl)aniline methyl sulfate, 3,3,5-trimethyl cyclohexyl salicylate (Homosalate), 2-hydroxy-4 methoxybenzophenone, (Benzophenone-3; Uvinul@M 40, Uvasorb@MET, Neo Heliopan@BB, Eusolex@4360), 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and the potassium, sodium and triethanolamine salts thereof (Phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid; Parsol@HS; Neo Heliopan@Hydro), 3,3'-(1,4-phenylenedimeth ylene)-bis(7,7-dimethyl-2-oxobicyclo-[2.2.1]hept-1-ylmethanesulfonic acid) and the salts thereof, 1-(4-tert.-butylphenyl)-3-(4-methoxyphenyl)propane-1,3-dione (Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane; Parsol@1789, Eusolex@9020), a-(2-oxoborn 3-ylidene)-toluene-4-sulfonic acid and the salts thereof, ethoxylated 4-amino benzoic acid ethyl ester (PEG-25 PABA; Uvinul@P 25), 4-dimethylamino benzoic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester (Octyl Dimethyl PABA; Uvasorb@DMO, Escalol@507, Eusolex@6007), salicylic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester (Octyl Salicylate; Escalol@587, Neo Heliopan@OS, Uvinul@018), 4-methoxycinnamic acid isopentyl ester (Isoamyl p-Methoxycinnamate; Neo Heliopan@E 1000), 4-methoxycinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester (Octyl Methoxycinnamate; Parsol@MCX, Escalol@557, Neo Heliopan@AV), 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzo phenone 5-sulfonic acid and the sodium salt thereof (Benzophenone-4; Uvinul@MS 40; Uvasorb@S 5), 3-(4'-methylbenzylidene)-D,L-camphor (4-Methylbenzylidene camphor; Parsol@5000, Eusolex@6300), 3-benzylidenecamphor (3-Benzylidene camphor), 4-isopropylbenzyl salicylate, 2,4,6-trianilino-(p-carbo-2'-ethylhexyl-1'-oxy)-1,3,5-triazine, 3-imidazol-4 ylacrylic acid and the ethyl esters thereof, polymers of N-{(2 and 4)-[2-oxoborn 3-ylidenemethyl]benzyl}-acrylamide, 2,4-d ihyd roxybenzophenone (Benzophenone-1; Uvasorb@20 H, Uvinul@400), 1,1'-diphenylacrylonitrile acid 2-ethylhexyl ester (Octocrylene; Eusolex@OCR, Neo Heliopan@Type 303, Uvinul@N 539 SG), o-aminobenzoic acid menthyl ester (Menthyl Anthranilate; Neo Heliopan@MA), 2,2',4,4'-tetrahydroxybenzophenone (Benzophenone-2; Uvinul@D-50), 2,2'-dihydroxy-4,4'-dimethoxybenzophenone (Benzophenone-6), 2,2'-dihydroxy-4,4'-dimethoxybenzophenone-5-sodium sulfonate and 2-cyano 3,3-diphenylacrylic acid 2'-ethylhexyl ester. Preference is given to 4-aminobenzoic acid, N,N,N-trimethyl-4-(2-oxoborn-3-ylidenemethyl)aniline 49 H 07227 methyl sulfate, 3,3,5-trimethyl cyclohexyl salicylate, 2-hydroxy-4 methoxybenzophenone, 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and the potassium, sodium and triethanolamine salts thereof, 3,3'-(1,4-phenylene dimethylene)-bis(7,7-dimethyl-2-oxobicyclo-[2.2.1]hept-1-ylmethanesulfonic acid) and the salts thereof, 1-(4-tert.-butylphenyl)-3-(4-methoxyphenyl)propane 1,3-dione, a-(2-oxoborn-3-ylidene)-toluene-4-sulfonic acid and the salts thereof, ethoxylated 4-aminobenzoic acid ethyl ester, 4-dimethylaminobenzoic acid 2 ethylhexyl ester, salicylic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid isopentyl ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester, 2-hydroxy-4 methoxybenzophenone 5-sulfonic acid and the sodium salt thereof, 3-(4'-methylbenzylidene)-D,L-camphor, 3-benzylidenecamphor, 4-isopropyl benzyl salicylate, 2,4,6-trianilino-(p-carbo-2'-ethylhexyl-1'-oxy)-1,3,5-triazine, 3 imidazol-4-ylacrylic acid and the ethyl esters thereof, polymers of N-{(2 and 4) [2-oxoborn-3-ylidenemethyl]benzyl}-acrylamide. According to the invention, very particular preference is given to 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and the potassium, sodium and triethanolamine salts thereof, 1-(4-tert.-butylphenyl)-3-(4-methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione, 4-methoxycinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester and 3-(4'-methylbenzylidene)-D,L-camphor. [0149] Those UV filters are preferred whose molar extinction coefficient at the absorption maximum is above 15000, in particular above 20000. (0150] It has additionally been found that, in the case of structurally similar UV filters, in many cases the water-insoluble compound displays for the purposes of the teaching according to the invention the greater action relative to those water-soluble compounds which differ therefrom by one or more additionally ionic groups. Those UV filters which are understood for the purposes of the invention to be water-insoluble are those which at 20*C are only 1 wt.%, in particular no more than 0.1 wt.%, soluble in water. Furthermore, these compounds should be at least 0.1, in particular at least 1 wt.%, soluble in conventional cosmetic oil components at room temperature. The use of water insoluble UV filters may therefore be preferred according to the invention. 50 H 07227 [0151] According to a further embodiment of the invention, those UV-filters are preferred which comprise a cationic group, in particular a quaternary ammonium group. [0152] These UV filters have the general structure U-Q. [0153] The structural element U therein denotes a UV radiation-absorbing group. This group may be derived in principle from the known above-stated UV filters usable in the field of cosmetics, in which a group, generally a hydrogen atom, of the UV filter is replaced by a cationic group Q, in particular with a quaternary amino function. [0154] Compounds from which the structural element U may be derived are for example - substituted benzophenones, - p-aminobenzoic acid esters, - diphenylacrylic acid esters, - cinnamic acid esters, - salicylic acid esters, - benzimidazoles and - o-aminobenzoic acid esters. [0155] Structural elements U which are derived from cinnamic acid amide or from N,N-dimethylaminobenzoic acid amide are preferred according to the invention. [0156] The structural elements U may in principle be selected such that the absorption maximum of the UV filters may lie both in the UVA (315-400 nm) and in the UVB (280-315nm) or in the UVC (<280 nm) range. UV filters with an absorption maximum in the UVB range, in particular in the range from approx. 280 to approx. 300 nm, are particularly preferred. [0157] Furthermore, the structural element U, also as a function of structural element Q, is preferably selected such that the molar extinction coefficient of 51 H 07227 the UV filter at the absorption maximum is above 15000, in particular above 20000. [0158] The structural element Q preferably contains a quaternary ammonium group as the cationic group. This quaternary ammonium group may in principle be linked directly to the structural element U, such that the structural element U is one of the four substituents of the positively charged nitrogen atom. However, one of the four substituents on the positively charged nitrogen atom is preferably a group, in particular an alkylene group with 2 to 6 carbon atoms, which functions as a link between the structural element U and the positively charged nitrogen atom. [0159] Advantageously, the group Q has the general structure
-(CH
2
)-N*R
1
R
2
R
3 X~, in which x denotes an integer from 1 to 4, R 1 and R 2 mutually independently denote C 1 _ alkyl groups, R 3 denotes a C 1
-
22 alkyl group or a benzyl group and X- denotes a physiologically acceptable anion. In the context of this general structure, x preferably denotes the number 3, R 1 and R 2 in each case denote a methyl group and R 3 denotes either a methyl group or a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, hydrocarbon chain with 8 to 22, in particular 10 to 18, carbon atoms. [0160] Physiologically acceptable anions are for example inorganic anions such as halides, in particular chloride, bromide and fluoride, sulfate ions and phosphate ions and organic anions such as lactate, citrate, acetate, tartrate, methosulfate and tosylate. [0161]Two preferred UV filters with cationic groups are the commercially obtainable compounds cinnamic acid amidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride (Incroquat@UV-283) and dodecyldimethylaminobenzamidopropyldimethyl ammonium tosylate (Escalol@ HP 610). [0162] It goes without saying that the teaching according to the invention also includes the use of a combination of two or more UV filters. In the context of this embodiment, the combination of at least one water-insoluble UV filter with at least one UV filter having a cationic group is preferred. 52 H 07227 [0163] The UV filters (1) are conventionally contained in the agents used according to the invention in quantities of 0.1-5 wt.% relative to the total agent. Quantities of 0.4-2.5 wt.% are preferred. [0164] Finally, the action of the active ingredient combination may also be enhanced by combined use with plant extracts. [0165] Conventionally, these extracts are produced by extraction of the entire plant. However, in individual cases it may also be preferable to produce the extracts solely from the blossoms and/or leaves of the plant. [0166] With regard to the plant extracts which may be used according to the invention, reference is made in particular to the extracts which are listed in the table starting on page 44 of the 3rd edition of the "Leitfaden zur Inhaltsstoffdeklaration kosmetischer Mittel" ["Guidelines for the nomenclature of ingredients in cosmetic agents"], published by the German Cosmetic, Toiletry, Perfumery and Detergent Association (IKW), Frankfurt. [0167] According to the invention, preference is above all given to extracts from green tea, oak bark, stinging nettle, witch hazel, hops, chamomile, burdock root, horsetail, hawthorn, lime blossom, almond, aloe vera, pine-needle, horse chestnut, sandalwood, juniper, coconut, mango, apricot, lime, wheat, kiwi fruit, melon, orange, grapefruit, sage, rosemary, birch, mallow, lady's smock, wild thyme, yarrow, thyme, melissa, restharrow, coltsfoot, marsh mallow, meristem, ginseng, ginger root, Echinacea purpurea, Olea europea, Foeniculum vulgaris and Apium graveolens. [0168] Particular preference is given to the extracts of green tea, oak bark, stinging nettle, witch hazel, hops, chamomile, burdock root, horsetail, lime blossom, almond, aloe vera, coconut, mango, apricot, lime, wheat, kiwi fruit, melon, orange, grapefruit, sage, rosemary, birch, lady's smock, wild thyme, yarrow, restharrow, meristem, ginseng and ginger root. 53 H 07227 [0169] Extracts which are very particularly suitable for the agent according to the invention are those from green tea, almond, aloe vera, coconut, mango, apricot, lime, wheat, kiwi fruit and melon. [0170] Extracting agents for producing the stated plant extracts may comprise water, alcohols and mixtures thereof. Preferred alcohols are lower alcohols such as ethanol and isopropanol, but in particular polyhydric alcohols such as ethylene glycol and propylene glycol, both as sole extracting agent and in a mixture with water. Plant extracts based on water/propylene glycol in the ratio 1:10 to 10:1 have proven particularly suitable. [0171] The plant extracts may be used according to the invention both in pure and in dilute form. Where used in dilute form, they conventionally contain approx. 2-80 wt.% of active substance and as solvent the extracting agent or extracting agent mixture used to isolate them. [0172] It may furthermore be preferred to use mixtures of a plurality of, in particular of two, different plant extracts in the agents according to the invention. [0173] It has furthermore been found that the action of the active ingredient combination according to the invention in cosmetics may be further enhanced in combination with substances which contain primary or secondary amino groups. Examples of such amino compounds which may be mentioned are ammonia, monoethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol, 2-amino-2 methylpropanediol and basic amino acids such as for example lysine, arginine or histidine. It goes without saying that these amines may also be used in the form of the corresponding salts with inorganic and/or organic acids, such as for example as ammonium carbonate, ammonium citrate, ammonium oxalate, ammonium tartrate or lysine hydrochloride. The amines are used together with the active ingredient according to the invention in ratios of 1:10 to 10:1, preferably of 3:1 to 1:3 and very particularly preferably in stoichiometric quantities. 54 H 07227 [0174] The agents according to the invention may furthermore contain a perfume component, preferably a perfume oil. [0175] Perfume oils which may be mentioned are mixtures of natural and synthetic odoriferous substances. Natural odoriferous substances are extracts of blossoms (lily, lavender, rose, jasmine, neroli, ylang-ylang), stems and leaves (geranium, patchouli, petitgrain), fruits (aniseed, coriander, caraway, juniper), fruit peels (bergamot, lemon, orange), roots (mace, angelica, celery, cardamom, Costus, iris, Calmus), woods (stone pine, sandalwood, guaiac, cedar, rosewood), herbs and grasses (tarragon, lemongrass, sage, thyme), needles and branches (spruce, fir, pine, mountain pine), resins and balsams (galbanum, elemi, benzoin, myrrh, olibanum, opoponax). Animal raw materials are also feasible, such as for example civet and castoreum. Typical synthetic odoriferous substance compounds are products of the ester, ether, aldehyde, ketone, alcohol and hydrocarbon types. Odoriferous substance compounds of the ester type are for example benzyl acetate, phenoxyethyl isobutyrate, p-tert.
butylcyclohexyl acetate, linalyl acetate, dimethylbenzylcarbinyl acetate, phenylethyl acetate, linalyl benzoate, benzyl formate, ethylmethylphenyl glycinate, allylcyclohexyl propionate, styrallyl propionate and benzyl salicylate. Ethers include, for example, benzyl ethyl ether, aldehydes include, for example, linear alkanals having 8-18 carbon atoms, citral, citronellal, citronellyloxyacetaldehyde, cyclamen aldehyde, hydroxycitronellal, lilial and bourgeonal, ketones include, for example, ionones, a-isomethylionone and methyl cedryl ketone, alcohols include anethole, citronellol, eugenol, isoeugenol, geraniol, linalool, phenylethyl alcohol and terpineol, the hydrocarbons mainly include terpenes and balsams. Preferably, however, mixtures of various odoriferous substances are used which together produce an attractive fragrance note. Relatively low volatility essential oils, which are generally used as aroma components, are also suitable as perfume oils, for example sage oil, camomile oil, clove oil, melissa oil, mint oil, cinnamon leaf oil, lime blossom oil, juniper berry oil, vetiver oil, olibanum oil, galbanum oil, labolanum oil and lavandin oil. Preferably, bergamot oil, dihydromyrcenol, lilial, lyral, citronellol, phenylethyl alcohol, a-hexylcinnamaldehyde, geraniol, benzyl 55 H 07227 acetone, cyclamen aldehyde, linalool, Boisambrene Forte, ambroxan, indole, hedione, sandelice, lemon oil, mandarin oil, orange oil, allyl amyl glycolate, cyclovertal, lavandin oil, muscatel oil, sage oil, p-damascone, geranium oil Bourbon, cyclohexyl salicylate, Vertofix Coeur, Iso E Super, Fixolide NP, evernyl, iraldein gamma, phenylacetic acid, geranyl acetate, benzyl acetate, rose oxide, romillate, irotyl and floramate are used alone or in mixtures. [0176] The perfume oils are added to the agent in general in a quantity of 0.05 to 5 wt.%, preferably of 0.1 to 2.5 wt.% and in particular of 0.2 to 1.5 wt.%, relative to the total agent. [0177] The perfume oils may be added to the agent in liquid form, undiluted or diluted with a solvent. Solvents suitable for this purpose are for example ethanol, isopropanol, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether, glycerol, propylene glycol, 1,2-butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, diethyl phthalate, triethyl citrate, isopropyl myristate etc. [0178] In addition to the active ingredient combination which is absolutely necessary according to the invention and the further, above-stated preferred components, the agents according to the invention may in principle contain any further components known to a person skilled in the art for such cosmetics. [0179] Further active ingredients and auxiliary substances and additives are for example: - thickeners such as gelatin or plant gums, for example agar-agar, guar gum, alginates, xanthan gum, gum arabic, karaya gum, locust bean flour, linseed gums, dextrans, cellulose derivatives, for example methylcellulose, hydroxyalkylcellulose and carboxymethylcellulose, starch fractions and derivatives such as amylose, amylopectin and dextrins, clays and phyllosilicates such as for example bentonite or completely synthetic hydrocolloids such as for example polyvinyl alcohol, Ca, Mg or Zn soaps, - texturing agents such as maleic acid and lactic acid, - perfume oils, - dimethyl isosorbide, 56 H 07227 - cyclodextrins, - solvents and solubilizing agents such as ethanol, isopropanol, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, glycerol and diethylene glycol, - active ingredients which improve fiber structure, in particular mono-, di and oligosaccharides such as for example glucose, galactose, fructose, fruit sugars and lactose, - quaternized amines such as methyl-1-alkylamidoethyl-2-alkylimidazol inium methosulfate, - defoamers such as silicones, - dyes for coloring the agent, - antidandruff active ingredients such as piroctone olamine, zinc omadine and climbazole, - light stabilizers, in particular derivatized benzophenones, cinnamic acid derivatives and triazines, - further substances for adjusting pH value, such as for example a- and P-hydroxycarboxylic acids, - active ingredients such as allantoin and bisabolol, - cholesterol, - complexing agents such as EDTA, NTA, p-alaninediacetic acid and phosphonic acids, - swelling and penetrating substances such as glycerol, propylene glycol monoethyl ether, carbonates, hydrogencarbonates, guanidines, ureas and primary, secondary and tertiary phosphates, - ceramides. Ceramides are taken to mean N-acylsphingosine (fatty acid amides of sphingosine) or synthetic analogues of such lipids ("pseudoceramides"), - opacifiers such as latex, styrene/PVP and styrene/acrylamide copolymers, - pearlescent agents such as ethylene glycol mono- and distearate and PEG-3 distearate, - pigments, 57 H 07227 - reducing agents such as for example thioglycolic acid and the derivatives thereof, thiolactic acid, cysteamine, thiomalic acid and a-mercaptoethanesulfonic acid, - propellants such as propane/butane mixtures, N 2 0, dimethyl ether, C02 and air, - antioxidants, - deoxy sugars, - plant glycosides, - polysaccharides such as fucose or rhamnose. [0180] In a furthermore preferred embodiment of the invention, the active ingredient combination according to the invention is used in agents for dyeing keratin fibers. The active ingredient combination according to the invention may here in principle be added directly to the dye. Preferably, however, the active ingredient is applied onto the dyed keratin fibers in a separate step either directly subsequent to the actual dyeing procedure or in separate treatments, optionally even days or weeks after the dyeing procedure. [0181]The term dyeing procedure here comprises all methods known to a person skilled in the art in which a dye is applied onto the, optionally moistened, hair and said dye is either left on the hair for a time of between a few minutes and approx. 45 minutes and then rinsed out with water or a surfactant-containing agent or is entirely left on the hair. Reference is explicitly made in this connection to known monographs, for example. Kh. Schrader, Grundlagen und Rezepturen der Kosmetika [principles and formulations of cosmetics], 2nd edition, Huthig Buch Verlag, Heidelberg, 1989, which reproduce the corresponding knowledge of a person skilled in the art. [0182] As has already previously been mentioned, it is also possible for the purposes of the teaching according to the invention, although less preferred, to incorporate the active ingredient combination directly into the dye or tint. 58 H 07227 [0183] No restrictions apply in principle to the composition of the dye or tint. Dye(s)/dye precursor(s) which may be used are - oxidation dye precursors of the developer and coupler type, - natural and synthetic direct dyes and - precursors of nature-analogous dyes, such as indole and indoline derivatives, together with mixtures of representatives of one or more of these groups. [0184] The oxidation dye precursors of the developer type which are used are conventionally primary aromatic amines with a further free or substituted hydroxyl or amino group located in para or ortho position, diaminopyridine derivatives, heterocyclic hydrazones, 4-aminopyrazole derivatives and 2,4,5,6 tetraaminopyrimidine and the derivatives thereof. Suitable developer components are for example p-phenylenediamine, p-tolylenediamine, p aminophenol, o-aminophenol, 1-(2'-hydroxyethyl)-2,5-diaminobenzene, N,N bis-(2'-hydroxyethyl)-p-phenylenediamine, 2-(2,5-diaminophenoxy)ethanol, 4 amino-3-methylphenol, 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxy-4,5,6 triaminopyrimidine, 4-hydroxy-2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2,4-dihydroxy-5,6 diaminopyrimidine, 2-dimethylamino-4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2 hydroxymethylamino-4-aminophenol, bis-(4-aminophenyl)amine, 4-amino-3 fluorophenyl, 2-aminomethyl-4-aminophenol, 2-hydroxymethyl-4-aminophenol, 4-amino-2-((diethylamino)-methyl)-phenol, bis-(2-hydroxy-5 aminophenyl)methane, 1,4-bis-(4-aminophenol)-diazacycloheptane, 1,3 bis(N(2-hydroxyethyl)-N(4-aminophenylamino))-2-propanol, 4-amino-2-(2 hydroxyethoxy)phenol, 1,10-Bis-(2,5-diaminophenyl)-1,4,7,10-tetraoxadecane and 4,5-diaminopyrazole derivatives according to EP 0 740 741 or WO 94/08970, such as for example 4,5-diamino-1-(2'-hydroxyethyl)-pyrazole. Particularly advantageous developer components are p-phenylenediamine, p-tolylenediamine, p-aminophenol, 1-(2'-hydroxyethyl)-2,5-diaminobenzene, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 2-aminomethyl-4-aminophenol, 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxy-4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 4-hydroxy 2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine. 59 H 07227 [0185] Oxidation dye precursors of the coupler type which are used are generally m-phenylenediamine derivatives, naphthols, resorcinol and resorcinol derivatives, pyrazolones and m-aminophenol derivatives. Examples of such coupler components are - m-aminophenol and the derivatives thereof such as for example 5-amino-2-methylphenol, 5-(3-hydroxypropylamino-)2-methylphenol, 3-amino-2-chloro-6-methylphenol, 2-hydroxy-4-aminophenoxyethanol, 2,6-dimethyl-3-aminophenol, 3-trifluoroacetylamino-2-chloro-6 methylphenol, 5-amino-4-chloro-2-methylphenol, 5-amino-4-methoxy-2 methylphenol, 5-(2'-hydroxyethyl)-amino-2-methylphenol, 3 (diethylamino)phenol, N-cyclopentyl-3-aminophenol, 1,3-dihydroxy-5 (methylamino)-benzene, 3-(ethylam ino)-4-methylphenol and 2,4-dichloro-3-aminophenol, - o-aminophenol and the derivatives thereof, - m-diaminobenzene and the derivatives thereof such as for example 2,4 diaminophenoxyethanol, 1,3-bis-(2,4-diaminophenoxy)propane, 1 -methoxy-2-amino-4-(2'-hyd roxyethylam ino)benzene, 1,3-bis-(2,4 diaminophenyl)-propane, 2,6-bis-(2-hydroxyethylamino)- 1 methylbenzene and 1-amino-3-bis-(2'-hydroxyethyl)-aminobenzene, - o-diaminobenzene and the derivatives thereof such as for example 3,4 diaminobenzoic acid and 2,3-diamino-1 -methylbenzene, - di- or trihydroxybenzene derivatives such as for example resorcinol, resorcinol monomethyl ether, 2-methylresorcinol, 5-methylresorcinol, 2,5-dimethylresorcinol, 2-chlororesorcinol, 4-chlororesorcinol, pyrogallol and 1,2,4-trihydroxybenzene, - pyridine derivatives such as for example 2,6-dihydroxypyridine, 2-amino 3-hydroxypyridine, 2-amino-5-chloro-3-hydroxypyridine, 3-amino-2 methylamino-6-methoxypyridine, 2,6-dihydroxy-3,4-dimethylpyridine, 2,6-dihydroxy-4-methylpyridine, 2,6-diaminopyridine, 2,3-diamino-6 methoxypyridine and 3,5-diamino-2,6-dimethoxypyridine, - naphthalene derivatives such as for example 1-naphthol, 2-methyl-1 naphthol, 2-hydroxymethyl-1 -naphthol, 2-hydroxyethyl-1 -naphthol, 1,5-dihydroxynaphthalene, 1,6-dihydroxynaphthalene, 60 H 07227 1,7-dihydroxynaphthalene, 1,8-dihydroxynaphthalene, 2,7-dihydroxynaphthalene and 2,3-dihydroxynaphthalene, - morpholine derivatives such as for example 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine and 6-aminobenzomorpholine, - quinoxaline derivatives such as for example 6-methyl-1,2,3,4 tetrahydroquinoxaline, - pyrazole derivatives such as for example 1-phenyl-3-methylpyrazol-5 one, - indole derivatives such as for example 4-hydroxyindole, 6-hydroxyindole and 7-hydroxyindole, - methylenedioxybenzene derivatives such as for example 1-hydroxy-3,4 methylenedioxybenzene, 1-amino-3,4-methylenedioxybenzene and 1 (2'-hydroxyethyl)-amino-3,4-methylenedioxybenzene. [0186] Particularly suitable coupler components are 1-naphthol, 1,5-, 2,7- and 1,7-dihydroxynaphthalene, 3-aminophenol, 5-amino-2-methylphenol, 2-amino 3-hydroxypyridine, resorcinol, 4-chlororesorcinol, 2-chloro-6-methyl-3-amino phenol, 2-methylresorcinol, 5-methylresorcinol, 2,5-dimethylresorcinol and 2,6-dihydroxy-3,4-dimethylpyridine. [0187] Direct dyes are conventionally nitrophenylenediamines, nitroaminophenols, azo dyes, anthraquinones or indophenols. Particularly suitable direct dyes are the compounds known by the international names or trade names HC Yellow 2, HC Yellow 4, HC Yellow 5, HC Yellow 6, Basic Yellow 57, Disperse Orange 3, HC Red 3, HC Red BN, Basic Red 76, HC Blue 2, HC Blue 12, Disperse Blue 3, Basic Blue 99, HC Violet 1, Disperse Violet 1, Disperse Violet 4, Disperse Black 9, Basic Brown 16 and Basic Brown 17 together with 1,4-bis-(p-hydroxyethyl)amino-2-nitrobenzene, 4-amino-2 nitrodiphenylamine-2'-carboxylic acid, 6-nitro-1,2,3,4-tetrahydroquinoxaline, hydroxyethyl-2-nitrotoluidine, picramic acid, 2-amino-6-chloro-4-nitrophenol, 4-ethylamino-3-nitrobenzoic acid and 2-chloro-6-ethylamino-1 -hydroxy-4 nitrobenzene. 61 H 07227 [0188] Naturally occurring direct dyes contain for example henna red, henna neutral, henna black, chamomile flowers, sandalwood, black tea, alder buckthorn bark, sage, logwood, madder root, catechu, lotus tree and alkanet root. [0189] It is not necessary for the oxidation dye precursors or the direct dyes in each case to be uniform compounds. Instead, as a result of the production processes for the individual dyes, the hair colorants according to the invention may contain subordinate quantities of still further components, provided that these do not have a disadvantageous effect on the dyeing result or must be excluded for other, for example toxicological, reasons. [0190] Precursors of nature-analogous dyes which are used are for example indoles and indolines and the physiologically acceptable salts thereof. Preferably those indoles and indolines are used which comprise at least one hydroxyl or amino group, preferably as a substituent on the six-membered ring. These groups may bear further substituents, for example in the form of etherification or esterification of the hydroxyl group or alkylation of the amino group. Particularly advantageous properties are exhibited by 5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-methyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-ethyl-5,6-dihydroxy indoline, N-propyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-butyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, 5,6-dihydroxyindoline-2-carboxylic acid, 6-hydroxyindoline, 6-aminoindoline and 4-aminoindoline and 5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-methyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, N ethyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-propyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-butyl-5,6-dihydroxy indole, 5,6-dihydroxyindole-2-carboxylic acid, 6-hydroxyindole, 6-aminoindole and 4-aminoindole. [0191] Within this group, particular emphasis should be placed on N-methyl 5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-ethyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-propyl-5,6-dihydroxy indoline, N-butyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, and in particular 5,6-dihydroxyindoline, and N-methyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-ethyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-propyl-5,6 dihydroxyindole, N-butyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, and in particular 5,6-dihydroxy indole. 62 H 07227 [0192] In the dyes used in the context of the method according to the invention, the indoline and indole derivatives may be used both as free bases and in the form of the physiologically acceptable salts thereof with inorganic or organic acids, for example hydrochlorides, sulfates and hydrobromides. [0193] When using dye precursors of the indoline or indole type, it may be preferable to use these together with at least one amino acid and/or at least one oligopeptide. Preferred amino acids are aminocarboxylic acids, in particular a-aminocarboxylic acids and w-aminocarboxylic acids. Among a-amino carboxylic acids, arginine, lysine, ornithine and histidine are in turn particularly preferred. One very particularly preferred amino acid is arginine, which is used in particular in free form, but also as the hydrochloride. [0194] Hair dyes, in particular if decolorization proceeds by oxidation, whether with atmospheric oxygen or other oxidizing agents such as hydrogen peroxide, are conventionally adjusted to weakly acidic to alkaline, i.e. to pH values in the range from approx. 5 to 11. For this purpose, the dyes contain alkalizing agents, conventionally alkali metal or alkaline earth metal hydroxides, ammonia or organic amines. Preferred alkalizing agents are monoethanolamine, mono isopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methylpropanol, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3 propanediol, 2-amino-2-ethyl-1,3-propanediol, 2-amino-2-methylbutanol and triethanolamine and alkali metal and alkaline earth metal hydroxides. In particular, monoethanolamine, triethanolamine and 2-amino-2-methylpropanol and 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol are preferred in the context of this group. It is also possible to use w-amino acids, such as w-aminocaproic acid, as alkalizing agents. [0195] If the actual hair colors are formed in the context of an oxidative process, conventional oxidizing agents, such as in particular hydrogen peroxide or the addition products thereof onto urea, melamine or sodium borate may be used. Oxidation with atmospheric oxygen as the sole oxidizing agent may however be preferred. It is furthermore possible to carry out oxidation with the assistance of enzymes, the enzymes being used both for producing oxidizing per compounds and for enhancing the action of a small quantity of an oxidizing agent which is 63 H 07227 present, or also enzymes which transfer the electrons from suitable developer components (reducing agents) to atmospheric oxygen. Preferred enzymes are here not only oxidases such as tyrosinase, ascorbate oxidase and laccase but also glucose oxidase, uricase or pyruvate oxidase. The approach of enhancing the action of small quantities (for example 1% and less, relative to the entire agent) of hydrogen peroxide by peroxidases may also be mentioned. [0196] The oxidizing agent preparation is then conveniently mixed with the dye precursor preparation immediately before the hair is dyed. The resultant ready to-use hair dye preparation should preferably have a pH value in the range from 6 to 10. It is particularly preferable to apply the hair dye in a weakly alkaline medium. Application temperatures may be in a range of between 15 and 40*C, preferably at scalp temperature. After an exposure time of approx. 5 to 45, in particular 15 to 30, minutes, the hair dye is rinsed out of the hair to be dyed. Rewashing with a shampoo is not required if a carrier with an elevated surfactant content, e.g. a coloring shampoo, has been used. [0197] In the case in particular of hair which is difficult to dye, however, the preparation with the dye precursors may also be applied onto the hair without prior mixing with the oxidation component. After an exposure time of 20 to 30 minutes, the oxidation component is then applied, optionally after intermediate rinsing. After a further exposure time of 10 to 20 minutes, the hair is then rinsed and reshampooed if desired. According to a first variant of this embodiment, in which prior application of the dye precursors is intended to bring about better penetration into the hair, the corresponding agent is adjusted to a pH value of approx. 4 to 7. According to a second variant, atmospheric oxidation is initially sought, the applied agent preferably having a pH value of 7 to 10. For the subsequent accelerated post-oxidation, the use of acidic peroxydisulfate solutions as oxidizing agent may be preferred. [0198] Dye formation may furthermore be supported and enhanced by adding specific metal ions to the agent. Suitable metal ions are for example Zn 2 +, Cu 2 +, Fe2+, Fe 3 *, Mn2+, Mn 4 *, Li+, Mg2+, Ca2+ and A13+. Zn2+, Cu 2 + and Mn2+ are particularly suitable. The metal ions may in principle be used in the form of any 64 H 07227 desired, physiologically acceptable salt. Preferred salts are acetates, sulfates, halides, lactates and tartrates. By using these metal salts, it is possible both to accelerate dye formation and to have a targeted influence on color shade. [0199] The present invention secondly provides use of the agent according to the invention for improving the hair structure of human hair. [0200] It is particularly preferred according to the invention to use the agent for increasing the gene expression of a plurality of hair keratins. [0201] In particular, it is preferred according to the invention to use the agent for increasing the gene expression of hair keratins hHa4, hHa3-1, hHa2, hHb6 and of cytokeratins for strengthening the internal structure of human hair. [0202] The present invention thirdly provides a method for improving the hair structure of human hair, in which the agent according to the invention is applied onto hair or hairy skin. [0203] Preference is given according to the invention to a method for increasing the gene expression of the hair keratins hHa4, hHa3-1, hHa2, hHb6 and of the cytokeratins for strengthening the internal structure of human hair. [0204] The following Examples illustrate the invention, but without restricting it thereto: all values are in weight percent (wt.%). 65 H 07227 Examples [0205] A: Shampoo Name wt.% Citric acid 0.5 Laureth sulfate 13 Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate 6 Salicylic acid 0.2 D-Panthenol, 75% 0.2 Na benzoate 0.5 Euperlan@1 PK 3000 AM 2.6 Cetiol@2 HE 0.5 Hydrogenated Castor Oil 0.1 Keratin hydrolysate 0.2 Ubiquinone 0.01 Ceteareth-25 0.5 NaCl 0.5 Water ad 100 [0206] B: Hair serum Name wt.% Paraffinum liquidum 1.5 Dehyquart@3 F 75 1.5 Isopropyl myristate 1 Varisoft@4 W 75 PG 1.5 Cetearyl alcohol 4 Cyclomethicone 0.5 Dimethicone 0.5 Propylparaben 0.2 Ubiquinone 0.01 Cetearath-9 0.8 66 H 07227 Stearamidopropyldimethylamine 0.8 Dehyquart@5 A CA 3 Citric acid 0.4 Methylparaben 0.2 Phenoxyethanol 0.2 Keratin hydrolysate 0.5 Salcare@6 SC 96 0.5 Water ad 100 [0207] C: Hair rinse Name wt.% Stenol@7 1618 7 Keratin hydrolysate 0.5 Genamin@8 KDM-P 1.2 Dehyquart@3 F 75 1.2 Amodimethicone 0.5 Ubiquinone 0.01 Ceteareth-25 0.8 Cetyl ester 0.5 Methylparaben 0.2 Perfume 0.3 Phenoxyethanol 0.4 Water ad 100 [0208] D: Hair tonic Name wt.% Keratin hydrolysate 0.1 Allantoin 0.1 Benzophenone-4 0.03 Synthalen@9 K 0.24 67 H 07227 Neutral@10 TE 0.25 Ethanol, 96% (DEP denatured) 40 Ubiquinone 0.01 Ceteareth-25 0.1 Menthol, natural 0.03 Water ad 100 [0209] The following commercial products were used: 1 INCI name: Aqua, Glycol Distearate, Glycerin, Laureth-4, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Formic Acid; active substance: 40% in water; Cognis 2 INCI name: PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate; Cognis 3 INCI name: Distearoylethyl Hydroxyethylmonium Methosulfate, Cetearyl Alcohol; active substance: 65-72%; Cognis 4 1 -methyl-2-nortallowalkyl-3-tallow fatty acid amidoethylimidazolinium methosulfate; INCI name: Quaternium-27, Propylene Glycol; active substance: 74-77%; Goldschmidt-Rewo 5 Trimethylhexadecylammonium chloride; INCI name: Aqua, Cetrimonium Chloride; active substance: 24-26%; Cognis 6 INCI name: Polyquaternium-37, Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate PPG-1 Trideceth-6; active substance: 50%; Ciba 7 C 16
-C
18 fatty alcohol, ethoxylated (9 EO) 8 N,N,N-trimethyl-N-(C 2 0
-C
22 -alkyl)ammonium chloride; INCI name: Behentrimonium Chloride; active substance: 77-83%; Clariant 9 Polyacrylic acid; INCI name: Carbomer; 3V Sigma 10 N,N,N,N-tetrakis(2-hydroxypropyl)ethylenediamine edetol; INCI name: Tetrahyd roxypropyl Ethylenediamine; BASF 68

Claims (14)

1. An agent, in particular for treating hair, containing at least one protein hydrolysate and at least one bioquinone.
2. The agent according to claim 1, wherein the ratio of protein hydrolysate(s) to the bioquinone(s) is in the range from 2:1 to 1000:1, preferably in the range from 5:1 to 500:1 and in particular in the range from 10:1 to 200:1.
3. The agent according to either of claim 1 or claim 2, wherein it contains keratin hydrolysates from sheep's wool or collagen hydrolysates as protein hydrolysates.
4. The agent according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the protein hydrolysate has a size of 400 to 1200 dalton.
5. The agent according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein it contains bioquinone(s), relative to its weight, in a quantity of 0.0000005 to 2%, preferably in a quantity of 0.000001 to 1% and in particular in a quantity of 0.00001 to 0.5%.
6. The agent according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the bioquinone(s) is/are selected from ubiquinone(s) and/or plastoquinone(s).
7. The agent according to claim 6, wherein the bioquinone is coenzyme Q
10. 8. The agent according to any one of claims 1 to 7, wherein it furthermore contains at least one emulsifier, and/or at least one dialkyl ether and/or a mixture of these substances. 9. The agent according to any one of claims 1 to 8, wherein the emulsifier is selected from polyethylene glycol alkyl ethers and/or ethoxylated glycerol esters. 69 H 07227 10. The agent according to any claim 9, wherein the polyethylene glycol alkyl ether has an alkyl chain length of 6 to 30 C atoms, preferably of 12 to 22 C atoms, and a degree of ethoxylation of 1 to 1000, preferably of 1 to 500 and in particular of 1 to 100, and the ethoxylated glycerol ester is selected from C12-C22 fatty acid mono- and diesters of addition products of 1 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide onto polyols with 3 to 6 carbon atoms, in particular onto glycerol.
11. The agent according to any one of claims 1 to 10, wherein it assumes the form of a shampoo, hair serum, hair tonic, hair rinse, hair strengthener, hair spray or hair gel.
12. Use of the agent according to any one of claims 1 to 11 for improving the hair structure of human hair.
13. Use according to claim 12, wherein gene expression of a plurality of hair keratins is increased.
14. Use according to either of claim 12 or claim 13, wherein gene expression of hair keratins hHa4, hHa3-, hHa2, hHb6 and of cytokeratins is increased for strengthening the internal structure of human hair.
15. A method for improving the hair structure of human hair, wherein the agent according to any one of claims 1 to 11 is applied onto the hair or the hairy skin.
16. The method according to claim 15, wherein gene expression of hair keratins hHa4, hHa3-1, hHa2, hHb6 and of cytokeratins is increased for strengthening the internal structure of human hair. 70
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AU2008307477A1 (en) * 2007-10-05 2009-04-09 Vito Biage Bucario Treatment method for revitalizing hair and method of producing keratin protein treatment solution
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DE19926156A1 (en) * 1999-06-09 2000-12-14 Beiersdorf Ag Hair cosmetic preparations, in particular those for improving the combability of the hair, based on ubiquinones
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